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Elsa Schiaparelli:Fashion and Surrealism the Cohen Library Atrium Exhibit, Telephone

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Elsa Schiaparelli:Fashion and Surrealism the Cohen Library Atrium Exhibit, Telephone City College Library of The City University of New York no.64 (n.s.) Spring 2002 Elsa Schiaparelli:Fashion and Surrealism The Cohen Library Atrium exhibit, telephone. Her 1936 “desk suit,” with Elsa Schiaparelli: Fashion and pockets like desk drawers sporting drawer- Surrealism explores the relationship knob buttons and first photographed in a between this twentieth-century fashion setting reminiscent of a landscape in a Dali icon and Surrealism. The exhibit painting, continued to show her highlights photographs of her dresses incorporation of unexpected, incongruous and suits taken from volumes in the elements inspired by contemporary artistic Archives’ Costume Book Collection. themes. Cocteau’s line drawings became Schiaparelli fashion accessories — three embroidered decoration on her jackets or vintage hats and three scarves — are part evening coats. Vertès painted whimsical of the exhibit, which incorporates graphic designs to advertise Schiaparelli’s research conducted at the Fashion perfume, “Shocking.” These collaborations Institute of Technology Museum and showed how it was possible for fine art to Library, the Condé Nast Library, and enhance high fashion. The Metropolitan Museum of Art The exhibit also draws comparisons Costume Institute. with her contemporary, Gabrielle “Coco” Surrealism entails the principles, Chanel, and points out her influence upon ideals, or practice of producing fantastic contemporary designers such as Yves Saint or incongruous imagery in art or literature Laurent and Jean Paul Gaultier. Elsa by means of unnatural juxtapositions and Schiaparelli, curated by Sydney Van Nort Elsa Schiaparelli in Her Showroom. combinations. This movement flourished F. Kollar/Ministère de la Culture, France and Julio Rosario, is on view through in Europe between the world wars. It painting, sculpture, photography, poetry, July. Sydney Van Nort grew principally out of the earlier Dada prose, or clothing design. [email protected] ○○○○○○○○○○○○ movement, which before World War I Schiaparelli produced fashions ○○○○○○○○ produced works of anti-art that deliberately reflecting a change in women who felt defied reason. Surrealists intended to Diana Birchall speaks on the confident in wearing clothes expressing First Asian American Novelist express a radical change in how man, the authority with the incorporation of creator of society, thought and perceived shoulder pads in a suit jacket or with an On February 21 the City College reality. Explanations were seldom element of whimsy in a hat shaped like a Library and the Program in Asian Studies provided for works created by the shoe. She incorporated architectural sponsored a reading and talk in the movement’s practitioners, whether in concepts in her clothing, following the library’s Archives by Diana Birchall, structure of the human skeleton, not the granddaughter of Winnifred Eaton who, natural curves of the body. Schiaparelli under her pen name Onoto Watanna, is felt a “dress should never fit a body, but widely regarded as American’s first Asian NOV EB O train the body to fit the dress.” American novelist. Ms. Birchall read IS DSPICE R B A A Schiaparelli’s friends and R C excerpts from her book Onoto Watanna U collaborators, including such artists as (University of Illinois Press, 2001). S P I I R Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Marcel I O G A Hollywood screenwriter as well, E S C I P G I P I Vertès, influenced her designs. ‘Schiap,’ L C S Winnifred was a fascinating, flamboyant E E E L R L as she was known by her friends, U personality. Her granddaughter’s talk L M O incorporated unusual elements into her was filled with anecdotes about her family C designs — jacket buttons in the shape of M including her great-grandmother, Grace D II cicada insects, a jacket collar shaped Eaton, born in Shanghai and kidnapped CC LV CX like a bird wing, a dress in the shape of by a circus at age three. She married a parachute, or a purse shaped like a (Continued on p.7) CircumSpice Spring 2002 2 From The Desk Of The Chief Librarian From the Desk of............. Nexis which get content from many These include Grove’s Dictionary different publishers. of Music, 2nd ed., Mental Measurements And the GOOD News is... Things have gotten so complicated Yearbook, Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of For years now, even decades in that we had to purchase a package called Industrial Chemistry, and WorldMark some cases, we have bemoaned the fact “Serials Solutions” to manage all the Yearbook 2001. that our library materials budget buys titles, and when we sent them our list of Also, CUNY has purchased less and less because it hasn’t gotten consortium purchases, they consolidated electronic access to a core collection of bigger and inflation has eroded it. them, sending us back our total title list more than 800 book titles from Net However, during the past two years, of more than 13,000 serials! You can Library, which are available through the the library has dramatically increased its view that title list at: link above. purchasing power without additional www.ccny.cuny.edu/library/Serials/ I urge you to use these resources dollars in one major area: Serials. jnlsIndex.html. and let us know what you think of them. With no additional funding, how 13,000 is a 500% increase in access As always, comments, suggestions, and can that be? to full-text journals and periodicals— feedback regarding the Library’s services Well, we have succeeded in providing articles that can be read online, are welcome and should be addressed to forming consortia with other libraries to emailed, saved to a disk, or printed out as me by calling x7271, sending email to increase our purchasing power just like needed. [email protected], or by you do when you join something like a Taking two concrete examples dropping by NAC 5/333 (Cohen Library). warehouse club. Sometimes the [from: www.ccny.cuny.edu/library/ Pamela Gillespie consortium is four or five libraries, Menu.html] just to add clarity, let’s look at Wiley InterScience and ScienceDirect. sometimes it’s all of CUNY, and in some Architecture Library Gift cases it’s even all of SUNY. 1. Wiley InterScience—Two years Five years ago we received 2600 ago, we received twelve titles from this The Landscape Architecture serials in paper, microform, or CD ROM publisher in paper. When CUNY first Program of the CCNY School of format. Now, our purchasing patterns put together a group subscription, we Architecture, Urban Design, and have changed so that we get one-third swapped the 12 for 70 titles in digital Landscape Architecture, has donated fewer physical pieces. Instead, we get content. This year, when we renewed the $3,000 for the purchase of library books digital content from more than 20 subscription, further fine tuning of the to support the program. The library is “aggregators.” An aggregator is a agreement got us 102 digital titles. Our delighted to receive this gift during a collecting unit—sometimes that is a per title cost went from $1500 two years year of truly anemic budgets and one in journal publisher like the American ago to $147.50 with the latest renewal. which the program will undergo an April Chemical Society or Elsevier; sometimes 2. Science Direct —Elsevier publishes accreditation visit by the national it is a licensor like EBSCO or Lexis- 1100 titles in many, many subject areas, including humanities and social sciences. Landscape Architecture Accreditation Two years ago we received 41 of them in Board. LIBRARY paper. The first year SUNY put together Architecture Librarian Judy PHONE a group subscription we swapped the 41 Connorton worked with Elizabeth ✆ NUMBERS Grajales, the president of the school’s for 750 titles in digital content. This Chief Librarian 650-7271 year, when we renewed, that number American Society of Landscape Archives 650-7609 went up to 965. Just as with Wiley, our Architecture Students, to select books Circulation 650-7155 per title cost went way down, from $3531 needed by students in the program’s Reference 650-7611-12 to $150. classes. Approximately 70 titles were Architecture 650-8768 ordered including the just published Music 650-7174 Online Access to Books too! Science/Engineering 650-8246 Certain complete reference works three-volume reference work The iMedia 650-6708 are available digitally on our Web site at: Encyclopedia of Gardens: History and Slide Library/Architecture 650-8754 www.ccny.cuny.edu/library/Menu.html Design (Fitzroy Dearborn, 2001). Slide Library/Art 650-7175 CircumSpice Spring 2002 3 2 CCNY Masterpiece Exhibited in Venice CCNY-owned quality. In this case, the masterpiece by museum paid to have the A Pierre Puvis de frame reinforced and the Chavannes, Children in an plain glass replaced with Orchard, is presently on laminated, non- reflective display in an exhibit at the glass. Second, exhibition Palazzo Grassi in Venice, credit brings excellent name Italy. The Palazzo Grassi recognition and distinction is one of Venice’s premier to the college.” museums specializing in Children in an the ancient, Renaissance, Orchard will be returning and modern arts. to the CCNY campus in The exhibit, Toward late June 2002, having Modern Art: from Puvis de served once again as City Chavannes to Matisse and College’s ambassador to Picasso, runs from February Children in an Orchard by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes the international art 10 to June 16, 2002. Taking community. January 2002 when the painting was re- a unique approach in examining the roots glazed and crated for the journey overseas. of modern art, the curator, Professor Rob Laurich In late January Assistant Dean Pamela Serge Lemonine of the Sorbonne and [email protected] Gillespie, CCNY’s Curator of Artistic Musee de Orsay, looks not to Properties, accompanied the painting to Impressionism and Manet but to the Venice.
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