TimorLand of the Sleeping CrocodileLeste

Text and photos by Don Silcock

The juvenile salt-water crocodile was near to death when the small boy found it stranded in a swamp far from the sea. Although greatly afraid, the boy decided to try and save the crocodile and eventually managed to get it back to the sea where it quickly recovered. The two became best friends and went on to travel the world together, with the boy riding on the back of the crocodile as it swam across the seas. But as the crocodile grew older, and the time came for it to die, it told the young man it would transform itself into a beautiful island where he and his children could live until the sun sank into the sea…

A family of anemone fish at Bob’s Rock east of Dili

67 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The view from the top of Cape Fatucama towards Dili; Arte Moris art commune Leste travel in Dili; Painted crocodile model at Arte Moris

Indonesia, and another 24 years of often brutal colonial rule was to follow. The end of the Suharto era in Indonesia ultimately lead to self-determination and the newly independent Republic of Timor Leste finally joined the global community on the 20 May 2002. Lead by the charismatic former guerilla leader Xanana Gusmao, and the urbane and articulate Nobel Peace Prize winner, Dr Ramos Horta, the country more commonly known by its anglicised name of remains one of the world’s poorest nations, but its large Declaring itself reserves of natural gas and oil promise independent on the 28 a much brighter future. November 1975 as the Democratic Republic of East Timor, the country was invaded and annexed just nine days later by its large western neighbor

The tale of the boy and his cold- blooded friend is told often in Timor to explain the island’s crocodile- like shape and why the Timorese have a special affinity with the large reptile that is said to inhabit the creeks and pools along much of the south coast of the country. A new country—twice Food vendors at Avenue de Portugal prepare for the evening The island of Timor has a long history of colonial rule dating back to the early Indonesia in 1949 when the Dutch formerly 16th century when the Portuguese and withdrew from their East Indies colonies. Dutch sailing ships first arrived in search of However, East Timor remained under the source of the incredibly lucrative Spice Portuguese rule until 1975 when political Trade. turmoil and a military mounted coup d’état Divided into eastern and western halves by in Lisbon resulted in the Portuguese abruptly the Europeans, Dutch West Timor eventually leaving and effectively abandoning the became part of the new Republic of territory after 455 years of colonial rule. Cape Fatucama 68 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Timor Leste

the north-east and as the rich waters of the Throughflow coast of Bali surge their way south and approach flourish from the Lesser Sunda shelf, are their exposure created that suck up the phosphorus and to those nutrient nitrogen-laden detritus of the sea so rich rich waters, in nutrients. so does the The Ombai Strait between Alor, Wetar north coast and Timor Leste is one of the three main of Timor hold passages for the Indonesian Throughflow considerable through the Lesser Sunda islands, which promise. means two things: big currents and the To the north chance of some great diving! of Timor Leste Add to this mix the fact that are the remote recreational simply did not islands of Alor exist in Timor Leste ten years ago, and the and Wetar—the known dives sites are simply a fraction of most easterly what are still to be discovered. of the chain of islands Main diving locations called the Currently the main diving locations in Diving Timor Leste Lesser Sundas, which form the southern Timor Leste can be broken down into four A quick look at the map and a basic boundary of the huge Indonesian areas: those in and around the capital of understanding of the Indonesian archipelago. Dili; the coastal locations up to two hours’ TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Scorpionfish, hawkfish and mantis shrimp at the Pertamina Throughflow is enough to tell you that Further north above Alor and Wetar drive to the east and west of Dili; the large Jetty and anemone shrimp at Dili Rock; Commensal Shrimp at the Pertamina just as North Sulawesi, Raja Ampat and are the deep basins of the Banda Sea, island of Atauro to the north of Dili; and Jetty (above); Hairy Crab at Dili Rock (left)

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Dili as it is just one site—albeit a very good There are three one—compared to the multiple sites in main sites that Lembeh. It owes its actual existence as a are dived regu- dive site to the direct intervention of the larly in Dili—the country’s president. Pertamina Jetty Tasi Tolu takes its name from the three near the center fresh water lakes just below the nearby of the city, Tasi foothills, which fill to capacity during the Tolu on the west- rainy season and then overflow, flood- ern outskirts and ing the roads and villages in the general nearby Dili Rock. area. To prevent this, the government All are shore commissioned a project to install a drain- dives. Pertamina age channel so that the overflow could Jetty and Tasi run off into the sea—the subsequent Tolu are muck design for which took the most logical diving and crit- path and would have dumped the out- ter sites, while Dili flow right on to the Tasi Tolu site. Rock is a mixture The local diving community waged a of critters and campaign to get the drainage channel coral gardens. relocated and ultimately got the issue on Tasi Tolu enjoys the radar screen of Dr Ramos Horta, the the smaller uninhabited island of Jaco at a somewhat legendary status both as President of Timor Leste. Horta sees tour- the far eastern tip of the country. Timor Leste’s version of the Lembeh Strait, ism as part of the potential to one which is rather overstating the situation of Timor Leste’s most pressing problems— CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Paddleflap rhinopias, thorny seahorse, tozeuma shrimp, tiger shrimp and porcelain crab at Tasi Tolu 70 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Timor Leste LEFT TO RIGHT: Beautiful bommie at Marble Rock east of Dili; Stunning soft cor- als and sponges at Mau- bara west of Dili; Yet another beautiful Bommie, this time at One Tree east of Dili

lack of employment opportuni- wide variety of photogenic critters. small, but superb, sponge garden ties—and accepted that destroy- filled with resident colonies of pho- ing one of the best critter dive sites East of Dili togenic purple anthias and silvery in Dili was not a great idea and There are numerous dives sites glass fish. was eventually able to stop the heading east from Dili, all of which project. are shore dives reached by short West of Dili I did several dives at Tasi Tol and paths from the main road and There are two main dive site areas eventually got to know it like the involve getting kitted up under to the west of Dili—Bubble Beach back of my hand, but I have to whatever shade is available and and the picturesque town of say that I would have missed the walking down the beach. All the Maubara. site completely if I had not been sites have sheltered entries, so Bubble Beach is reputed to shown it by the dive guides from actually getting in to the water is be one of the best dives in Timor Dive Timor Lorosae, the easy and exposure to the strong Leste. Unfortunately, access from with which I dived in Timor Leste. currents of the Ombai Strait is the shore is not possible anymore, Not that the site is particularly gradual and manageable. My as the area had been fenced off hard to find. Rather, it looks noth- personal favorites to the east of as the “bubbles” are believed to ing like a photogenic one, as it’s Dili were Secret Garden, Marble be natural gas leaking up from just a flat patch of marine growth. Rock and One Tree—with Secret the deep water gas reserves that But in amongst it, you will find a Garden standing out because its hold the key to Timor Leste’s future

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ing, but as you go deeper at around 15m, means that life is hard for the permanent they come to life and positively abound with residents of the island, and development is marine life that is nourished by the strong cur- significantly slower than on the mainland. But rents that sweep the site. the lack of run-off from the island means that My favorite bommie was about 200m to the visibility around At’auro is exceptional. the north-west of the main entry point straight down from the car parking area near the Jaco Island church. It is at around 19m in depth and was At the very eastern tip of Timor is the area simply teeming with life. of Los Palo and the National Park of Jaco Island. Boasting brilliant white sand beaches, Ata’uro turquoise seas and apparently pristine reefs, The large and visibly stunning island of Ata’uro the diving around the island is reputed to is located 30km due north of Dili. For me, it be exceptional, as the area is effectively was a case of, “so near, but oh so far”. The completely unspoiled because the island is island is right in the path of the Indonesian uninhabited and rarely visited by commercial Throughflow, as it rushes south into the Ombai fishing boats. But the only real option to dive prosperity. A fenced-off area is the site of a Strait. Tales of schools of pelagics and pods Jaco Island is from a , which simply proposed gas processing facility. of whales and dolphins abound. Alas, not for was not available when I was there. But all There are two sites at Maubara—the Church me, as that basic logistic detail—a boat— that will change in 2012 when the highly and the Fort, with the former offering some required for such diving was not available. regarded Worldwide Dive and Sail will conduct superb diving around the numerous bommies So, all I could do was note the many stories several back-to-back trips in Timor Leste with its on the sloping coral slope. First impressions from people I met who have dived there and liveaboard the SY Oriental Siren. should be ignored, because the shallower resolve to get back in the future. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Stunning bommie at Dirt Track east of Dili; Is this parts of the slope are not particularly appeal- Ata’uro suffers from a lack of rainfall, which the best bommie in Timor Leste? Maubara west of Dili; Another incredible bommie at Maubara; Shy Goby on a sea whip at Bob’s Rock east of Dili 72 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Commensal Shrimp at the Pertamina travel Jetty Timor Leste second. The with an estimated 200,000 losing their best way to lives during the 24 years the country visualize a was the 27th province of Indonesia. sverdrup is Comprised of 16 ethnic groups, each to think of a with its own language, but dominated river 100m by the Tetuns from the western part of wide, 10m the country, Timor Leste is one of only deep and two staunchly Roman Catholic countries flowing at in Asia—the Philippines being the other. four knots. While the country’s oil and gas Then imagine reserves holds the promise of a brighter 500 of those future, Timor Leste remains amongst the rivers all poorest countries in Asia. After ten years combined of independence, the grinding poverty together, is clearly making patience wear rather and that is thin. one sverdrup. A very interesting facet of Timor The Indonesian Throughflow It is estimated that the total amount Leste culture is tara bandu, a form of A basic understanding of the of seawater that passes through the adat, or traditional customary practice, Indonesian Throughflow (ITF) and ITF is 20-22 sverdrups, or 10,000 of those found among specific ethnic groups in sverdrups is essential if you want to rivers. Malaysia, Indonesia and the southern know why the scuba diving can be so Philippines. In the absence of a formal be good in certain parts of the vast The people law and order system, adats are used Indonesian Archipelago and less-so in Timor Leste’s people are fiercely by these ethnic groups to regulate other areas. independent. They have paid a very and control overall village life and its The Readers Digest explanation heavy price to achieve independence, social order. During the occupation, of what causes the ITF is a disparity in sea levels. The Pacific Ocean to the northwest of the Indonesian archipelago has a sea level of 150mm (6 inches) above average, whilst the Indian Ocean to the south has a sea level 150mm below average. This disparity is caused by the trade winds and associated oceanic currents that act in opposite directions in the northern and southern hemispheres. The overall consequence of this disparity is the largest movement of water on the planet, which flows through the Indonesian archipelago from the Pacific Ocean to the northeast to the Indian Ocean in the southwest. So huge is the volume of water associated with the ITF that traditional measurements such as cubic meters and gallons are inadequate to describe it in an easily understandable way. So, the Norwegian scientist, Harald Sverdrup, invented the sverdrup—one million cubic meters of water per Schooling Anthias at Dirt Track east of Dili Sea Star at Dirt Track east of Dili 73 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Statue of Christ at Cape Fatucama; Catholic monument in Dili; Fast food shop, Timor Leste style Timor Leste travel prohibition, which can cover caught breaking the prohibitions that are cast anything from protecting an area are required to provide the same that call upon of the local environment—such number of animals to restore the the souls of the as cutting trees or fouling a water balance of the tara bandu. village ancestors source— to stealing vegetables But perhaps the most to assist with from other people’s gardens. effective, and certainly the most the protection. Valuable animals are sacrificed controversial, element of the NGO’s saw the during the ceremony. People prohibition are the magic spells tara bandu as an excellent way to help restore some of the environmental damage caused by excessive deforestation during the occupation and a way to introduce localized law and order, given the scant availability of police and legal resources in the new country. Fast food There are two really nice side

creating a beautiful backdrop to the crystal waters of the Ombai Strait. The other side benefit is the Timor Leste version of fast food, which is readily available at the side of the road. Villagers of Timor Leste supplement their income by selling freshly caught grilled fish and packages benefits to diving the coastal of very tasty yellow rice wrapped the Indonesian legal system was prohibition”. Contrary to the sites to the east and west of Dili. in leaves. applied and all Adat customs literal interpretation a westerner The first is the drive itself, which is were prohibited. However, since might take, the hanging part quite spectacular and vaguely Dive operators the new country emerged in refers to the fact that whatever reminiscent of the Big Sur area in There are currently three options 2002, tara bandu has enjoyed is prohibited is hung (displayed) California, as the coast road hugs available if you are looking to a revival under the sponsorship in a prominent position as a the shoreline and winds around sample what Timor Leste has to of several non-governmental warning to potential thieves and the many bays and headlands offer—two land-based and one organizations (NGO’s) active in poachers. along the way. The mountainous liveaboard. Timor Leste. A fairly elaborate ceremony is hinterland of Timor Leste starts at The two land-based opera- Tara bandu means “hanging conducted to initiate the specific the coast and rise dramatically, tors are Dive Timor Lorosae and Local kids watch the divers gear up at Bob’s Rock east of Dili 74 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Timor Leste

their new one had not arrived Excursions see the local fishermen bringing from Australia, so all my dives I used to do it on every trip—dive in their catch on the beach were all shore dives either in up to the very last possible minute and laying it out for sale on the Dili area or to the east and and then spend the remaining the roadside wall. The avenue west, and I was unable to dive time packing my gear and follows the coast most of the reviewing my underwater way through Dili, and you will images, completely find much to see, ranging from ignoring the above the new high-tech and closely water scenery. Writing guarded Chinese Embassy Free Flow Diving, both of for X-RAY MAG has to hotels and cafés serving which are located right changed all that, and breakfast. across from the beach on now I dare not return Avenida de Portugal, the from an assignment Cape Fatucama. Mid-morning main street of Dili. without spending at least is a good time to check out the My trip was organized one full day exploring as huge statue of Christ on the with Dive Timor Lorosae, much of the locale as headland at the eastern end or DTL as it is usually possible. of Dili and the fantastic view its referred to, which is started Dili and the immediate location offers. Reminiscent of the back in 2002 by Darwin countryside have much one in Rio de Janeiro, the statue based Australian Mark to offer, and you can was built by the Indonesians Mialszygrosz, who first went either be adventurous during their occupation of the to Timor Leste in 2000 to assist with Atauro. But all that has changed by hiring a motorbike and drive country in an attempt to get the the rebuilding of the country’s now that the boat has arrived yourself or mitigate the traffic strongly Roman Catholic Timorese infrastructure after the bloody and DTL dives Atauro regularly, accident risks by going for a car on side. It’s quite a hike up the transition to independence. so I am planning my next trip as I and a driver. I went for the low- hill to the base of the statue, but Mark is an interesting guy to talk write this article. cost adventurous option and the view once there is well worth to and is very passionate about The third option is Worldwide really enjoyed the freedom of it, and there are a couple of Timor Leste and its people, plus he Dive and Sail liveaboard the SY finding my own way around. Here cafés near the beach on the way has some great tales about the Oriental Siren, which will conduct is my list of must-see places in the back into Dili where you can get exploratory dives in the early days several back-to-back trips in order that I did them in. a local coffee and restore your after independence diving places Timor Leste from August 2012 and . that simply had never been seen will dive the best of the Dili and Avenue de Portugal. An early before. coastal sites (including Bubble morning walk down the main The mountains. If you’ve dived When I dived Timor Leste DTL Beach) and both Ata’uro and thoroughfare of Dili is a pleasant the coastal sites, you’ve driven were in between boats and Jaco Islands. way to start the day and you will the coast road. So, why not CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Dive Timor Lorosae; Ata’uro Island; Mountains south of Dili; Dili sunrise; Secret Garden dive site; Coral Grouper 75 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Timor Leste

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Schooling anthias at Secret Garden, east of Dili; Duban hinge-beak shrimp at Pertamina Jetty; Superb shallow water bommie at Secret Garden, east of Dili; Goby at Dili Rock; Moray eel at Pertamina Jetty

spectacular mountain 100 people by the Indonesian era museum personifies all that to see above and below the scenery. Army will endear you to the sheer is weird and wonderful about water. Very much in the mode determination of the Timorese Dili. Art students live here while of a developing country, Timor Santa Cruz Cemetery. people. Caught on film by two they are trained in a variety of Leste’s rough edges add to its Not what you would western journalists and smuggled mediums, and their works are on charm. The sheer determination normally consider to be into Australia at great personal display throughout the buildings of its people to overcome the top of one’s list of tourist risk, the film alerted the world to and grounds. country’s colonial past and the attractions, but 30 minutes the suffering and injustice that the brutal years of the Indonesian wandering around Timorese were experiencing. Avenue de Portugal. As the sun occupation is simply admirable. the site of the 1991 starts to set, it’s time to go back The known diving locations massacre of more than Xanana Reading Room. to where you started the day justify a trip in themselves, but Dedicated to Xanana Gusmao— and join the many locals who the thought of what waits to be the former guerrilla leader and dine and drink at the beachside discovered is tantalizing. If you now prime minister of Timor stalls, which spring up late in the do decide to go, do yourself a Leste—this part library, part afternoon. Freshly grilled fish and favour and allow some extra time head inland and check out the Maubisse, which are the centre museum and part cultural centre ice cold beer rarely tasted so to do some land-based exploring mountainous interior? Eat before of the main coffee growing area is an essential stop for visitors to good. and enjoy the country as it is now you do, as facilities are few and of Timor Leste. If you make it all Dili in search of information and because it won’t stay this way far between. the way to Maubisse, you will find advice about Timor Leste. Afterthoughts forever. ■ Midday is the best time to do that the former government rest As divers, we are constantly this trip, as it is much cooler as house has been converted into Arte Moris. In many ways, this looking for new and exciting For more information please you climb out of Dili towards a hotel called the Pousada and kind of artistic commune set in places to try. Timor Leste offers visit Don Silcock’s website at: the old hill towns of Aileu and boasts 360 degree views of the the remains of an Indonesian an interesting mix of things Indopacificimages.com

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Economy About 70 percent cantly in 2009-2010, for the most of the economic infrastruc- part on basic infrastructure, roads ture of the country was and electricity leading to first time devastated by Indone- national debt in late 2011. fact file sian troops and anti- Timor Leste independence militias Population 1,177,834 by late 1999. Refugees Ethnic groups: Austronesian RIGHT: Global map with numbering 300,000 (Malayo-Polynesian), Papuan, location of Timor Leste fled westward. A mas- small Chinese minority. Religions: BELOW: Detail map of sive international pro- Roman Catholic 98%, Muslim 1%, Timor Leste gram of 5,000 peace- Protestant 1% (2005). Internet us- sources: US cia world fact book, keepers (up to 8,000) ers: 2,100 (2009) Starfish.Ch and 1,300 police offic- ers helped to stabilize Currency U.S. Dollar History In the early 16th cen- refugees. De- the country over the tury, the Portuguese began to struction was Banda Sea next three years. This led Language The official lan- trade with the island of Timor and rampant and to significant reconstruc- guages are Tetum and Portu- colonized it by the mid-century. affected most tion in both rural and urban guese. Indonesian, English and INDONESIA After clashes with the Dutch in the of the coun- areas. Challenges the country about 16 indigenous languages Pulau Atauro area, Portugal ceded the west- try’s infrastruc- continues to face includes gen- are spoken. Tetum, Galole, Mam- Baucau ern portion of the island to them ture, including DILI west of erating jobs for young people bae and Kemak are spoken by a Liquica in a treaty in 1859. From 1942 to nearly all of Manatuto Australia. It lies at the east- entering the work , rebuilding large part of the population. 1945, imperial Japan occupied the country’s Savu Sea Viqueque Pulau ern end of the Indonesian its infrastructure and strengthen- Ermera Jaco , but after the electrical grid Pante archipelago in the Lesser ing the civil administration. Oil Health There is a very high de- Japanese defeat in World War II, as well as Makasar Sunda Islands. The country and gas resource development gree of risk for food or waterborne Portugal resumed colonial author- homes, irriga- includes the eastern half in offshore waters has helped to diseases such as bacterial and ity. On 28 November 1975, East tion systems, Suai of the island of Timor, the increase government revenues, protozoal diarrhea, hepatitis A, Timor declared itself independent water supply Oecussi (Ambeno) region on but not jobs, since there are no and typhoid fever as well as vec- INDONESIA from Portugal. Nine days later, it systems, and the northwest portion of the production facilities in the coun- torborne diseases such as chikun- was invaded and occupied by schools. The island of Timor, as well as the try. The economy continues to gunya, dengue fever and malaria Indonesian . In July 1976, violence was Timor Sea islands of Pulau Jaco and improve despite the outbreak of (2009) Indonesia incorporated it and brought to Pulau Atauro. Terrain: moun- violence and civil unrest in 2006. designated the region a province an end on 20 tainous. Lowest point: Timor By 2009, most of an estimated Chambers of Timor Timur (East Timor). Over September Sea, Savu Sea, and Banda 100,000 internally displaced per- Bali: Sanglah General Hospital the next 20 years, an unsuccessful 1999, when an Sea 0m. Highest point: Foho sons came back home. Govern- Hyperbaric Medical Department. campaign of pacification fol- Australian-led Tatamailau 2,963m. Coast- ment increased spending signifi- Tel: 62-361-227911 lowed. An estimated 100,000 to force of peacekeeping troops— over 1,600 personnel was organ- line: 706km 250,000 individuals lost their lives called the International Force ized and deployed in Timor Leste Makassar during this period. On 30 August for East Timor (INTERFET)—were by the U.N. Security Council in Climate Timor Leste’s climate is (Sulawesi): 1999, an overwhelming majority of deployed to the country. Timor what was called the U.N. Integrat- tropical, humid and hot, with dry Rumah Sakit the people of Timor Leste voted Leste was internationally recog- ed Mission in Timor-Leste (UNMIT). and rainy seasons. Natural haz- Umum Wahidin for independence from Indonesia nized as an independent state Stability was restored in the region ards include earthquakes, tsuna- Sudirohusodo. in a popular referendum super- on 20 May 2002. However, inter- by the ISF and UNMIT, thereby al- mis and tropical cyclones; floods Tel: 62 - 0411 vised by the United Nations. In nal tensions threatened the new lowing peaceful presidential and and landslides are common. (584677) or retribution, Indonesian militias sup- nation’s security again in 2006, parliamentary elections to be held 584675 ported by the country’s military when a military strike sparked in 2007. Since then, the country Environment Deforestation began a large-scale scorched violence leading to a breakdown has experienced stability except and soil erosion have developed Web sites earth campaign as the Timorese of law and order. Once again for one incidence in 2008 when as a result of widespread use of Discover Dili awaited the arrival of a multina- an Australian-led peace-keeping a rebel group tried and failed to slash and burn agriculture. Timor www.discover- tional peacekeeping force in late force—this time called the Inter- stage a coup. Government: re- Leste is party to the following dili.com ■ September 1999. Around 1,400 national Stabilization Force (ISF)— public. Capital: Dili international agreements: Biodi- Timorese were killed by the militias was deployed to Timor Leste at versity, Climate Change, Climate and 300,000 people were forci- the request of Dili. In addition, an Geography Timor Leste is lo- Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertifi- Anemone bly pushed into western Timor as authorized police presence of cated in Southeastern Asia, north- cation shrimp at Dili Rock 77 X-RAY MAG : 47 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED