Moscow Москва Constructed the First Kremlin at a Strategic Spend One Day Seeing What Makes Mos- Spot Atop the Borovitsky Hill

HISTORY MOSCOW IN... Moscow’s recorded history dates to the mid-12th century, when Yury Dolgoruky Two Days Moscow Москва constructed the first Kremlin at a strategic Spend one day seeing what makes Mos- spot atop the Borovitsky Hill. Moscow blos- cow famous: St Basil’s Cathedral (p109 ), somed into an economic centre. Lenin’s Tomb (p108 ) and the Kremlin In the 13th century, the Mongols burned (p104 ). Allow a few hours in the afternoon the city to the ground. The Golden Horde to gawk at the gold and gems in the Ar- Sunlight glinting off gold-domed churches. Scantily clad women emerging from sleek, black was interested in tribute, and Moscow was moury ( p107 ). Art lovers should spend their cars. Uniformed military marching across the vast expanse of Red Sq. This is Moscow – the conveniently situated to monitor the river second day at either the Pushkin Museum political, economic and cultural capital that defines this massive nation. trade and road traffic. Moscow’s Prince of Fine Arts ( p109 ) or the Tretyakov Gal- Ivan acted as tax collector, earning him- lery ( p110 ), both world-class art museums.

Russia’s medieval roots are here: the Kremlin still shows off the splendour of Muscovy’s self the moniker ‘Moneybags’ (Kalita), and Afterwards, spend some time exploring the MOSCOW grand princes; St Basil’s Cathedral recounts the defeat of the Tatars. Yet this place also Moscow developed into a regional capital. surrounding neighbourhoods. Towards the end of the 15th century, recalls Russia’s more recent history, still fresh in our memories. On Red Sq, the founder the once diminutive duchy emerged as an Four Days MOSCOW of the Soviet state lies embalmed. And only a few kilometres away, his heir, Boris Yeltsin, expanding state under the reign of Grand Take in all of the activities suggested in heroically defied the army – leading to the demise of that same state. Prince Ivan III (the Great). To celebrate his the two-day itinerary. On the third day, visit successes, he imported a team of Italian Novodevichy Convent (p111 ), where so Moscow has always been known for the diversity of its population and the richness of artisans for a complete renovation of the many scenes from Russian history have its culture. Today, more than ever, visitors and residents alike can enjoy events ranging Kremlin. The city developed in concentric been played out. Finally, hit the money ma- from the classic to the progressive. Whether a Tchaikovsky opera or an Ostrovsky drama, rings outward from this centre. Under Ivan chine and head to Izmaylovo market ( p119 ) IV (the Terrible), the city earned the nick- classical performing arts in Moscow are among the best – and cheapest – in the Western for some serious souvenir shopping. name of ‘Gold-Domed Moscow’ because of world. The Tretyakov Gallery and Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts house internationally famous its multitude of monastery fortresses and One Week collections of Russian and impressionist art. magnificent churches. Take in all of the activities suggested in the In 1712 Peter the Great startled the coun- four-day itinerary. Then, plan an excursion Of course, New Russia comes with new forms of art and entertainment. The bohemian try by announcing the relocation of the to the Golden Ring, visiting Rostov-Veliky side of Moscow – be it a beatnik band at an underground club, or an avant-garde exhibit at capital to St Petersburg. In the early 1800s, ( p124 ) and Sergiev Posad ( p123 ). the Central House of Artists – provides a glimpse of Russia’s future. Sometimes intellectual Moscow suffered further at the hands of and inspiring, sometimes debauched and depraved, it is always eye-opening. Napoleon Bonaparte. But after the Napo- leonic Wars, Moscow was feverishly rebuilt ORIENTATION and industry prospered. Picture Moscow as five ring roads that When the Bolsheviks gained control of spread out from the centre: the Inner Ring Russia in 1917, the capital returned to Mos- Road, about 500m north of the Kremlin; the HIGHLIGHTS cow. Stalin devised an urban plan for the dual-carriageway Boulevard Ring (Bulvar- Be awestruck by the endless array of city: historic cathedrals and monuments noe Koltso), about 1km from the Kremlin; jewels and weapons at the Kremlin were demolished; in their place appeared the busy Garden Ring (Sadovoe Koltso), Armoury ( p107 ) the marble-bedecked metro and neo-Gothic 2km out; the high-speed, eight-lane Third skyscrapers. In the following decades, Mos- Ring (Tretoe Koltso), about 4.5km from the Marvel at the artistry of the Moscow Izmaylovo Market cow expanded at an exponential rate. Kremlin; and the Outer Ring Road, also metro ( p122 ) Café Pushkin Moscow was the scene of the most dra- called MKAD, a highway that forms the city Sip a cappuccino at the Café Moscow Kremlin matic events of the early 1990s’ political limits about 15km from the Kremlin. Pushkin ( p116 ) Metro transition. Boris Yeltsin led crowds protest- Radial roads spoke out across the rings, Novodevichy Bargain for trash and treasure at Cemetery ing the attempted coup in 1991; and two and the Moscow River meanders across Izmaylovo market ( p119 ) years later, he ordered the army to blast everything from northwest to southeast. the parliament into submission. Within the The Kremlin, a north-pointing triangle with

Pay your respects at Novodevichy Moscow city government, the election of 750m sides, is at Moscow’s heart in every Cemetery ( p111 ) Mayor Yury Luzhkov in 1992 set the stage way. Red Sq lies along its eastern side while for the creation of a big-city boss: his inter- the Moscow River flows to the south. ests range from the media to manufacturing About 2.8km northeast of the Kremlin and from five-star hotels to shopping malls. is Komsomolskaya pl, Moscow’s transpor- While the rest of Russia struggled to sur- tation hub. Three bustling train stations TELEPHONE CODE: 495 POPULATION: 10.4 MILLION vive the collapse of communism, Moscow dominate this square, including Yaro- emerged as an enclave of affluence. slavsky vokzal (Yaroslavl Station), the most MOSCOW h very central. night Sat &Sun; most 12;per hrR60; Police Fire hotline Crisis Ambulance Emergency Books House ofForeign Bookberry Biblio-Globus Bookshops INFORMATION whole country. stocks cityandregional mapscovering the % An excellentmapstore, Maps 2.4km tothewest. Kremlin, vokzal(KyivStation), orKievsky 2.8kmnorthwestof Station), the (Belarus vokzal likely entrypointswillbeBelorussky from Western Europeyour andEastern Yekaterinburg. from the Uralsincludingmainservice theterminus forsometrainsfrom Station), across theroadisKazansky vokzal(Kazan toandfromStPetersburg,for services while Station), vokzal(Leningrad Leningradsky for Trans-Siberiantravellers. Nextdooris of important Moscow’sninetrainstations 100 Internet Club Internet is found at http://wifi.yandex.ru. listing of clubsandcaféswithwireless access orTimeNetLand Online. Amore complete upscalehotels, as well less accessatseveral around Moscow.Take advantage of free wire- less accessisalso becomingmore common theplethoraof InternetBesides cafés,wire- Access Internet in ofguidebooks. foreign titles,includingadecentselection 7pm Sun; ul Kuznetskymost18/7; and a good selection ofmapsandtravelguides. and agoodselection andhistory, reference andsouvenirbooksonlanguage,art 10am-8pm Sun; ul6; skaya offers the city’s best selection ofguidebooksandmaps.offers thecity’sbestselection 10am-6pm Sat,11am-5pmSun; If you’re arrivinginMoscowontrains 10am-11pm; 928 6109;Kuznetskymost9; ( MOSCOW••Information % ( % m 01) h Mp pp102-3; (Map 02) ( Kuznetsky Most)Asmallshopspecialising % 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pmSat, 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map pp102-3 ; (Map (Map pp102-3 ; ( m m % m 03) h Lubyanka) Ahugestore withlotsof Lubyanka) Kuznetsky Most)Small, simple and 244 3449,inEnglish9379999) Arbatskaya) Aslicknewchainthat Arbatskaya) h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-mid- 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, Mp pp102-3; (Map % 10am-8pm Mon-Sat,11am- % % 291 8303; Nikitsky bul 17; bul17; 291 8303;Nikitsky h 292 5670;Kuznetsky Atlas 928 3567;Myasnit- m 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, Kuznetsky Most)

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skaya Pokrovka Kalanchevskaya ul Sadovaya- pl To IzmaylovoMarket(6km); Taganskaya Vokzal Komsomolskaya

Yauza Komsomolskaya pl

Marksistskaya

nab Hotel Izmaylovo(6km);

Komsomolskaya pl ul

Zemlyanoy val H Shchyolkovsky Bus

Kommunisticheskaya ul Zemlyanoy val Kazansky Izmaylovo (6km)

Marksistskaya River Vokzal Chkalovskaya Basmanny per Basmanny 58 val Zemlyanoy Kurskaya

Kursky Vokzal Station (8km)

Taganskaya International Yaroslavsky Baumana Ὀ

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3 2 5 ul MOSCOW MOSCOW of Moscow are notpaved with money. Re- or anynumber of unpleasantries. you are culpable. This leadstoashakedown give someismissing and himisnotenough: the crime. Butloandbehold, the cashyou is missinghiscash soreturns tothesceneof about returning it–the first he guyrealises about howtosplit themoney–orarguing are incahoots.While youare negotiating 104 Internet Club Obraztsov Puppet Theatre & House ofForeign Books 36.6 Pharmacy ...... INFORMATION Main Post Office Main PostOffice 36.6 Pharmacy ...... NetCity 36.6 Pharmacy ...... NetLand 36.6 Pharmacy ...... Time Online American MedicalCenter Alfa-Bank Alfa-Bank Alfa-Bank US Embassy Bookberry Atlas Banya onPresnya SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Botkin Hospital Botkin Biblio-Globus Bulat OkudzhavaStatue Central Telegraph British Embassy European MedicalCenter Kuklachev Cat Theatre Chistye Prudy Capital Tours ...... Euroset Liden &Denz ...... Cathedral ofChrist theSaviour Moscow Zoo театр Museum Дом Главпочтамт Медицинский Американский Посольство Бани Боткина Библио Торговый Памятник Центральный Посольство Окуджаве Медицинский Европейский Театр Чистые Храм Московский The moral of thestory isthat thestreets guys This isano-win situation.These MOSCOW••Sights Атлас

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Mp p106; (Map SAS Lufthansa GlavAgenstvo ENTERTAINMENT GlavAgenstvo Delta Pelmeshka Moo Tinkoff Red Bar Real McCoy ...... British Airways Moo-Moo Moo-Moo Aeroflot TRANSPORT Hall Tchaikovsky Concert Propaganda Coffee Mania Nikulin Circus Coffee Mania Maly Theatre Coffee Mania Karma Bar Karma Coffee Bean Chekhov Moscow Art Theatre MoscowArt Chekhov Bunker Bunker Coffee Bean Yolki-Palki Tiflis Bolshoi Theatre bilingua ...... Coffee Bean Transaero Ramstore Simple Pleasures ...... Yolki-Palki Starlite Diner B-2 Bar 30/7 Yolki-Palki DRINKING ГлавАгенство ГлавАгенство Британские Концертный Цирк имени Малый МХАТ Большой Старлайт Скандинавские Б Тифлис -2 Дельта

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Бин Бин Бин ...... 96 95 94 80 93 92 63 79 78 77 91 62 90 89 88 76 87 75 86 74 85 84 83 98 67 82 81 71 97 64 65 68 66 69 70 73 72 F1 D4 F4 C5 D5 C2 F4 A5 C4 D4 E3 C5 D3 F4 F2 F4 E4 C4 F4 E3 E4 G4 E3 E4 F5 C5 D3 G4 D3 E3 D2 E4 H2 F6 F3 F3 D5 gage office Kremlin, depositbagsatthenearby before entering tickets the out.Before sell avoid queuinguponceinside. Arrive early should buytickets fortheArmouryhere, to Tower.Great Bell youcanand Inanycase, Patriarch’s Palace orinsidetheIvan cial exhibitsthatare sometimesheldinside notincludethespe- italsodoes Exhibition; except theArmouryandDiamondFund The ticket covers entrytoallbuildings drovsky Garden,justoff Manezhnaya pl. nab across theriver. views of thecomplexare fromSofiyskaya with RedSqoutsidetheeastwall.Thebest walls2.25kmlong byhigh lin isenclosed north bankof theMoscowRiver, theKrem- land covering littleBorovitsky Hillonthe done theirbest–andworst –forRussia. ist dictators anddemocraticpresidents have It’s fromhere thatautocratictsars, commun- kernel of Moscowbutof thewholecountry. www.lonelyplanet.com where lived, Stalin and the bombastic mar- 17th-century are tovisitors. closed isthe On the right ofnaya plyou’ll passaseries buildingsthat (Map p106 ). Ontheway tocentralSobor- leadinguptothe Garden end of arampover theAleksandrovsky away fromtheKremlin’s westwall,atthe the mainvisitors’ entrancetoday,stands The GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS palaces. palaces. off-limits including avisittotheotherwise tours of theKremlin cathedrals,sometimes Dom Tours (see p113 ) offers more in-depth the Kremlin andArmoury,whilePatriarshy (see p113 ) offers dailytours standard of Tours the qualityvaryingwidely.Capital ranging fromR300toR600perhour, and Tower, withprices theKutafya near services entry. Visitors wearingshortswillberefused areas.from strayingintotheout-of-bounds mond FundExhibition. totheArmouryorDia- heading straight Borovitskaya bythose Gate, mainlyused Tower.the Kutafya The mainticket isinAleksan- office triangularplotofOccupying aroughly Numerous freelance guidestout their Inside theKremlin, policewillkeep you There’s alsoanentranceatthesouthern Kutafya Tower

(per bagR60; Poteshny Palace Poteshny Mp p0 , hc forms which p106), (Map h 9am-6.30pm) Trinity Gate Tower Gate Trinity Mp p106), (Map , beneath left lug- left Church of the Twelve Apostles Church oftheTwelve From here youcanaccessthefive-domed ellery, huntingequipmentandfurniture. items, includingjew- century household anexhibitofThe palacecontains 17th- PATRIARCH’S PALACE isthe1930s to theSenate ofthe offices the pr ofmate powerinthemodernKremlin, seat Senate cannons, andtheyellow,triangularformer and ringed by800captured Napoleonic (Map p106 ), hometotheKremlin guard panies (see p119 ). Ontheleftis both theBolshoiandKremlin com- Ballet munist Party congresses by andnowused gresses, builtfrom1960to1961forCom- (Map p106 ), formerlythePalace of Con- ble, glassandconcrete Mp p0 building. p106) (Map glass starsstill there today. ers, replacing themwith thedistinctive red- remov ed fromthewall’sfive tallesttow- eagleshad the imperial double-headed public u it inNovember 1917. breached againuntil theBolsheviksstorm ed Thetal destruction. citadelwouldn’t be the arrivalofRussian troopsprevented to- of itbefore hisretreat in1812.Fortunately, Kremlin wasNapoleon,whoblewup parts for coronationsandothercelebrations. burg, tsarscontinuedtoshowuphere the Great shifted thecapitaltoStPeters- Kremlin’s three cathedrals. AlthoughPeter (most ofwhichstillstand),aswell the newwallsandtowers and Italytosupervise Great broughtmaster buildersfromPskov with almostthesameboundariesastoday. with limestonewalls–wasbuiltinthe1360s, from Vladimir. The ‘White StoneKremlin’ – of theRussianChurch,whichhadshifted becoming inthe1320sheadquarters ofMoscow’sprinces, with theimportance built inthe1150s,andKremlin grew The firstwoodenwallaroundMoscowwas stronghold. A ‘kremlin’ isatown’sfortified HISTORY OFTHEKREMLIN The Kremlin remained closedto the theyears,biggestthreatOver tothe At the end ofthe15thcentury,Ivan (Map p106 ) building,nowtheulti- ntil 1955.ItwasStalin who,in1935, MOSCOW ••Sights esident of Russia. Next State Kremlin Palace Kremlin State Mp p106), (Map Supreme Soviet Supreme Arsenal which 105

MOSCOW ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

Te Kremlin The MOSCOW Bol Nikitskaya ul Nikitskaya Bol 106 4 6 1 3 2 5 Manezhnaya ul Manezh Central THE KREMLIN Exhibition MOSCOW••TheKremlin Hall Aleksandrovsy Assumption Cathedral Arsenal Armoury &Diamond Fund Exhibition Archangel GabrielChapel 5) ...... (see Annuciation Cathedral SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Left Luggage Office Archangel Cathedral Time Online Phlegmatic Dog Kremlin Ticket Offices INFORMATION Выставка Успенский Оружейная Арангельский лаговещенский Флегматичная Камера Кассы Manezhnaya Sad 2 Ὀ Ὀ 1 AC 14 Арсенал pl

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B1 C2 C4 A3 B2 C3 B1 C3 B3 Moskovoretskaya ul Moskovoretskaya elephantine firearm. beside it,which are forthis too big even bore notthecannonballs –andcertainly on thebarrel. Shot sulliedits89cm has never portraitis cast in1586forFyodor I,whose North of thebelltoweris Sadly, this202-tonne monster rang. never the an additional ticket and reservation time. an additionalticket andreservation cluding the someoldericons, in- contains lowest level north, westandsouthwalls. the 1320sto1700.Thetombsare again the st heads of theRussian Orthodox Church from lutionary and 1479.As thefocal church of prerevo- cath edral circular gablesfacingthesquare, is this five goldenhelmetdomesandfoursemi- On the northernsideof Sobornayapl,with ASSUMPTION CATHEDRAL exhibits icon painters. lection of icons byleading17th-century andacol- has agilded,woodeniconostasis www.lonelyplanet.com ner was forcenturies thecoronation, wed- (Map p106 ) atthe square’s southeastern cor- Back on Sobornaya pl,this1508 ARCHANGEL CATHEDRAL the of collections are shownonthegroundlevel fromtheKremlin30km away.Exhibitions Kremlin’s structure, tallest visiblefrom Toweristhe century IvantheGreat Bell the eastern sideof Sobornayapl,the16th- With its twogoldendomesrisingabove IVAN THEGREAT BELLTOWER and 1486bymasonsfromPskov. the Robe Cathe dral isthe beside thewestdoorof theAssumption fromthe1480sto1930. Cathedral Gallery (see p110 ), stoodintheAssumption 12th-century original,nowintheTretyakov God image, the Rublyov-school copyof Russia’smostrevered skaya Bogomater), anearly-15th-century Beside the bell tower (not inside it) stands thebelltower(notinsideit)stands Beside The iconostasis dates from 1652 but its dates from1652butits The iconostasis The Patriarch’s Palace often holds The delicate littlesingle-domedchurch Tsar Bell (IkonaVladimirskoy Bogomateri). The bell tower

(adult/student R300/150) (Map p106 1484), builtbetween

Russia, it’s the burialplaceof most (Map p106 1475 ), builtbetween , which istheworld’sbiggest bell. Vladimir Iconof the Mother of Virgin of Vladimir Mp p0 autsuet R100/50) adult/student p106; (Map Church oftheDeposition , which require (Vladimir- Tsar Cannon cathedral special . ,

the growthof Moscowduringthisperiod. from the12thto14thcenturies, showing Archaeology oftheKremlin afascinatingexhibitonthe site –contains previous 14th-century cathedralonthis student R300/175; western corneristhe open tothepublic.InKremlin’s south- visitsandreceptions,for official butisn’t KremlinThe 700-roomState Palace is used ARMOURY agrille. through he couldviewservices into the the southernarmof thegalleryconverted from entering thechurch proper,sohehad riage disqualifiedhimunderOrthodox law vate chapel. IvantheTerrible’s first mar- masters in1489,wastheroyalfamily’spri- this cathedral(Map p106 ), builtbyPskov At the southwestcornerof Sobornaya pl, ANNUNCIATION CATHEDRAL ofwith those hisothersons. out of behind theicon sight along ostasis, a painted stonecanopy.Ivan’sowntombis who diedmysteriously in1591)liesbeneath Tsarevich Dmitry(Ivanthe Terrible’s son, –see Posad buried atSergiev p123 ) are here. the 1690s(exceptBorisGodunov, whois of allof Moscow’srulers fromthe1320sto ding andburialchurch of tsars. Thetombs of theiconostasis. the diesisrow,biggest of thesixtiers of endof thesixiconsatright-hand Greek. Theophanesprobablypainted most icons of master painter Theophanesthe the adjacent Andrei Rublyov, whomayalsohave painted the sixtiers of isascribedto theiconostasis) third iconfromtheleftonlargest of and Church. Tickets specifyentry times. accumulated over timebytheRussianState numbingly opulent collectionof treasures tion dresses of 18th-century empresses. Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich, and the corona- prompt them), the800-diamond throneof partment fromwhich Regent Sofia would IvanV(with asecret com- his half-brother throne of boytsars Peter (theGreat) and royal regalia such asthejointcoronation and 7are themostfascinating, containing The basement –which remainsThe basement fromthe The cathedral contains thecelebratedThe cathedralcontains Of theArmoury’s ninerooms,Rooms6 Archangel Gabriel Chapel Archangel Gabriel St Peter h 10am, noon,2.30pm&4.30pm) MOSCOW ••Sights Archangel Michael . Armoury . Theartefacts date

Mp p0 adult/ p106; (Map , fromwhich (the

107

, a MOSCOW MOSCOW Diamond Fund Exhibition mond lust,there are more intheseparate eastern wallistheinfamous Immediately outsidetheKremlin’s north- . Square Red ping mall Ryadshop- and theunderground Okhotny ter. Opposite thegardensisManezhnaya pl to 7pminsummer,and3pmduringwin- hourfrom10am the guardhappensevery Nazis cametoMoscow.Thechanging of sh–thenearestkm41 of the Leningradskoe of asoldierwhodiedinDecember1941at the UnknownSoldier At thegarden’snorthernendis (Map p106 ) alongtheKremlin’s western wall. A goodplace to relax garden isthepleasant ALEKSANDROVSKY GARDEN 108 largest sapphire intheworld. empresses over thecenturies,including stones andjewellerygarnered bytsars and lavish collectionshows theprecious off buildingastheArmoury.The in thesame R350/175; for youngMuscovites. If the Armoury doesn’t sate yourdia- sate If theArmourydoesn’t place foratleast several more years. communism, andthemummy, theliteral embodiment oftheRussianRevolution, willremain in from Moscow touroperators. Itseems thatthemausoleum, themostsacred shrineofSoviet in StPetersburg, settingoffafurore from thepoliticalleftas wellasmore-muted objections foramere andsecretsoffering milliondollars. towannabeimmortals itsservices submerged inatubofchemicals, includingparaffinwax.The institute hasnowgonecommercial, the bodyiswipeddown every few days,andthen,every 18months,thoroughlyexaminedand Kremlin’s covert embalminglab for decades. After thefallofcommunism, Zbarskycameclean: closely guardedstate secret. This necroticcraftwaspassedontoZbarsky’s son,whoranthe of uncovering itshiddengenius. another secret 40yearsinthe hope laboratory, tobeslicedanddicedbyscientistsforthenext dark spotswere bleached, andlipseyessewntight.The brainwasremoved to andtaken a secret laboratoryinsearch ofalong-term chemical solution.Inthemeantime,body’s order toputastopthenaturaldecomposition ofthebody.The franticallyin pairworked widow, aswell sion wasmadetopreserve thecauseasaholyrelic.the fatherofSoviet communismshouldcontinuetoserve Sothedeci- for weekstoglimpsethebodyasitlay instate. Inspired Stalinproposedthat bythespectacle, (on22January1924,aged 53),alonglineofmournerspatientlygatheredof astroke in winter Red Sqishometotheworld’smostfamous mummy,thatof Vladimir IlychLenin. When hedied LENIN UNDERGLASS MOSCOW••Sights In theearly1990s, Boris Yeltsin expressed hisintention toheedLenin’s request and buryhim In July1924,thescientists hituponaformulatosuccessfully arrest thedecayingprocess,a Boris Zbarsky,abiochemist,andVladimir Vorobyov, an anatomist,were issuedapolitical h

( p119 spot ), apopularmeeting 10am-noon &2-5pmFri-Wed) as hisownexpressed desire tohismotherinStPetersburg. tobeburiednext , containing theremains, containing

( % 229 2036;adult/student Lenin’s corpseforperpetuity, againstthevehement protests of his Red Sq , which is Tomb of Tomb of

(Kras- Revolyutsii) 20th centurydiditcometomean‘red’, too. Russian meant‘beautiful’andonlyinthe or thebloodthatflowedhere: chad’ hasnothingtodo withcommunism the peopletosee. to congregate, celebrate andcastigate forall place where occupantsof theKremlin chose a RedSqhasalwaysbeen Kitay-Gorod. square adjoiningthemerchants’ area in his red andblackstonetombinspect embalmed, oddlywaxyfigure, emerge from ful duringthevisit.After troopingpastthe guards ensure thatvisitors remain respect- allowed totake itwithyou.Humourless (see Museum opposite ), asyouwillnotbe History intheState the left-luggage office ern cornerof RedSq,dropyourcameraat joiningthequeueatnorthwest- Before buried besidehismuminStPetersburg. especially iftheformerleaderiseventually sights, lin wall,isoneof RedSq’smust-see Te granite The LENIN’S TOMB naya ploshchad;Map p106 ) sion free; Incidentally, thename‘Krasnaya plosh- Incidentally, h , standing atthefootof, standing theKrem- 10am-1pm Tue-Thu, Sat&Sun; tomb

Mp p106; (Map . Itwasonceamarket www.lonelyplanet.com % krasny 923 5527;admis- m Ploshchad in old inold He waslater canonised. side thechurch soonreplaced. thatStBasil’s while Kazan wasundersiege, wasburiedbe- Ivan wouldmurderason.Vasily, whodied correctly, asthearmyleftforKazan, that who predicted Ivan’sdamnationandadded barefoot holyfoolVasily theBlessed, (Basil) added later. Itwasbuiltover thegrave of the only tothenortheastern chapel, which was oped forbuildingwoodenchurches. devel- wholly Russianstylethathadbeen Kazan. Itsdesignistheculminationof a Terrible’s of taking theTatar of stronghold ing anexistingchurch, tocelebrate Ivanthe was created 1555and1561,replac- between this crazyconfusionof colours andshapes from theslopeatRedSq’ssouthernend, m admission free; edral isavailable ateitherspot. Cath- andStBasil’s State HistoryMuseum sky C ‘Russia’moreNo buildingsays than ST BASIL’SCATHEDRAL buried alongtheKremlin wall. of communism’sotherheavy hitters are Brezhnevwhere andmany Leonid Stalin, www.lonelyplanet.com ul Novy Arbat(or ulVozdvizhenka) andin- east, thisdistrict includes the area southof Bound bytheMoscow River in thesouth- Arbat District (adult/student R230/115) museum At the northernendof thesquare, this STATE HISTORY MUSEUM echoing oldRussian churches. A region, decorated some withhighly walls room isinthestyleof adifferent period or anattraction–each19th century,isitself onwards. Thebuilding,datingfrom thelate ing theRussianempire fromtheStoneAge peded theflowof RedSq. paradesthrough lin’s orders in1936, allegedly itim- because was foundedin1636 anddemolished onSta- entrance. It’sareplica of theoriginal, which nnogo; Map nnogo; Map p106 ; Revolyutsii) US$3; student R150/75; sii) , commonly known as St Basil’s. Rising , commonlyknownasStBasil’s. The misnomer St Basil’s actuallyrefersThe misnomerStBasil’s Tiny Ploshchad Revolyutsii) athedral h

Kazan Cathedral Kazan 11am-5pm Wed-Mon; Mp p106; (Map hasanenormouscollectioncover-

h (St Basil’sCathedral,SoborVasiliya Blazhe- h % 8am-7pm, evening service Mon8pm; service 8am-7pm, evening 11am-7pm Wed-Mon; 298 3304;Krasnayapl2;admission % is opposite themuseum allowingaccesstothe 292 4019;www.shm.ru;adult/

(Map (Map m p106 ; Ploshchad Revolut- ul Nikolskaya 3; ul Nikolskaya m joint ticket Ploshchad Pokrov-

as theworld’slargest swimmingpool. purpose animportant years thesite served theground– literally.off Instead, for50 of buttheprojectstatue Lenin) got never ‘Palacehigh of Soviets’ (includinga100m planned toreplace the church witha315m- orgyStalin’s of explosive Stalin secularism. poleon. Theoriginalwasdestroyed during to commemorate Russia’svictoryover Na- of name,builtfrom1839to1883 thesame on thesite of anearlierandsimilarchurch the Saviour River isthegargantuan Dominating the skylinealongMoscow CATHEDRAL OFCHRISTTHE SAVIOUR the Moscow’s premier foreign-art museum is PUSHKIN MUSEUMOFFINEARTS songwriter wholived atNo43(see p110 ). pp102–3 singer and ), the1960scultpoet, of Plotnikov perisof atthecorner national friendship. Thestatue vidually painted tilesonathemeof inter- pp102–3 of) iscomposed hundreds of indi- Arbat’s eastern end,the tourist-oriented shopsandcafés.Nearul old pastel-coloured and merchant houses ets). Itisaninteresting walk,dotted with jug glers andbuskers (andsomepickpock- portraitpainters,instant soapbox poets, is somethingof anartmarket, complete with The Arbat–Moscow’smost famousstreet – ULITSA ARBAT Smolenskaya plontheGardenRing. RingtoArbatskaya plontheBoulevard the 1.25kmpedestrianmallstretching from side theGardenRing.ItincludesulArbat, inside abigriver loop. stretches southfrom opposite the Kremlin, (Beyond-Moscow-River) Zamoskvorechie Zamoskvorechie amazing array of statues through theages.amazing arrayof through statues tions after therevolution. There isalsoan mostly appropriated fromprivate collec- onwards, pean worksfromtheRenaissance of selection Euro- ings, butalsohasabroad impressionist andpostimpressionist paint- Tue-Sun; adult/student R300/150,audioguideR250; % admission free; 203 7998; www.museum.ru/gmii; ul Volkhonka 12; 203 7998;www.museum.ru/gmii;ulVolkhonka Pushkin Museum ofFine Arts Museum Pushkin m

Kropotkinskaya). h Mp pp102-3; (Map 10am-5pm; MOSCOW ••Sights Bulat Okudzhava Bulat Okudzhava m Itisfamousforits % Wall ofPeace Kropotkinskaya) 201 2847;www.xxc.ru; Cathedral of Christ of Christ Cathedral

h Mp pp102-3; (Map 10am-6pm (Map . It sits . Itsits (Map

109 MOSCOW MOSCOW kovskaya) 130, audiotourR120; www.tretyakov.ru; Lavrushinskyper10;adult/studentR225/ of God 12th-century Thecentrepiece isthereveredservices. the mu founders) regularlyseum’s attended is thechurch where Pavel Tretyakov (one of grounds, the vizhniki (see p48 ). Within themuseum art, particularlythe19th-century Pered- lection of other prerevolutionary Russian of col- Russianicons andanoutstanding skaya Galereya; Galereya; skaya Gallery yakov Nothing short of the spectacular, STATE TRETYAKOV GALLERY 110 h known asthe Tretyakov Gallery onKrymskyval,better sian artisthenew buildingof theState The premier venue for20th-centuryRus- NEW TRETYAKOV the GoncharovaNatalia and Lyubov Popova. Malevich, Vasily Kandinsky, Marc Chagall, avant-gardeshowcase artistslike Kasimir the plethoraof socialistrealism, theexhibits In the same building astheNew Tretyakov,In the same and buskers, painters and poets who still perform forstrolling crowdsonsummerevenings. paintersand buskers, andpoetswhostillperform resemblance tothehallowedhauntofOkudzhava’syouth.Butitsmemorylives oninthebards Moscow. footsteps, theiriconoclasticlyricsandsimplemelodiesdrawingenthusiastic crowdsallaround the streets. VladimirVysotskyandothers–some political,somenot–followedinOkudzhava’s and Okudzhavainspired theirideasto awholemovement poetstotake ofliberal-thinking announced that‘...theseare notsongs. This isjustanotherwayofpresenting poetry.’ other composers,singersandguitaristsdidnot.The illfeeling subsidedwhenawell-knownpoet later, Iknowseven chords,thenIknewthree.’ WhileBulatandhisfriendsenjoyedsongs, to accompanyoneofmysatiricalverses withmusic. Ionlyknewthree chords;now,27years characterfreethinking forwhichitisknown. only uponhisreturn toMoscow–andhischerishedArbatthatpoetryadopted the spiration. Althoughhespenthisuniversity yearsinGeorgia dabblinginharmlessverse, itwas For Moscow’sbeloved bard Bulat Okudzhava,theArbatwasnotonlyhishome,itin- You are myhappinessandmisfortune. Arbat, myyouare mycalling ARBAT, MY ARBAT 10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; Central Houseof Artists Central MOSCOW••Sights The Arbattoday–crowdedwithtackysouvenir standsandoverpriced cafés–bearslittle wasborn.The 1960swereAnd soanewformofart headytimes–inMoscowaselsewhere – He graduallymadethetransitionfrompoettosongwriter, statingthat,‘OnceIhadthe desire , protector of allof Russia. holdstheworld’sbestcollection

% Mp pp102-3; (Map Church ofStNicholasinTolmachi Vladimir Iconof the Mother New Tretyakov 238 1378;adult/student R225/130; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; m

(Tsentralny DomKhudozh- (Tsentralny Park Kultury) % 951 1362,9535223;

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Tue-Sun; tury) sky val;adult/childR50/15; now been joinedbycontemporary work. now been Soviet discredited feeling. These iconshave inthepost-1991wavepedestals of anti- pasture whentheywere rippedfromtheir tion of andBrezhnevs) putoutto Lenins Felix (Stalin, statues Dzerzhinsky, aselec- Heroes, asacollection of itstarted Soviet tury) val10;admissionR50; Krimsky the to escapethehubbub of thecity. Officially Park isoneof Moscow’smostfestive places Part park,part funfair,Gorky ornamental GORKY PARK nikov; moody forcontemporary artshows. used terror-inducing attractions. with tworoller coasters and adozen other Park park has asmallWestern amusement of anold-fashioned Inside,Gorky carousel. waving in thewindand happysounds showy entrance, marked bycolourful flags stream of Krymskymost.Youcan’tmiss the stretches almost3kmalong theriver up- Behind thecomplexisawonderful,Behind . FormerlycalledthePark of theFallen , it’snamedafter Maxim Gorky,and Park ofCulture % m Sculpture ParkSculpture 238 9634;adult/studentR50/20; Park Kultury)

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% 237 1266;Krym- h % m m 11am-7pm 11am-7pm 290 0667; Park Kul- Park Kul- entre.ru; pr Mira; entre.ru; prMira; 7pm; other RussianandSoviet notables. gei Andrei Eisenstein, Gromyko,andmany Stanislavsky, SergeiProkofiev, Ser-stantin Nikolai Gogol,VladimirMayakovsky, Kon- You willfindthetombsof AntonChekhov, ‘who’s who’of Russian politicsandculture. most prestigious resting places–averitable is the monument toSoviet Initsbase spaceflight. of consumerism. tackiest capitalist ing of socialistoptimismand, now,the kitschest socialistrealism, themostinspir- the commongoal. Here youwillfind the diverse ethnic andartisticmovements to styles, symbolicof thecontributions from represent ahuge varietyof architectural ture, technology andscience. Thepavilions tion fromeducationandhealthto agricul- aspectofglorifying every socialistconstruc- pedestrian avenues pavilions, andgrandiose oflong and1kmwide,itiscomposed wide Soviet economicsystem. Twokilometres press upon oneandallthesuccessof the was expandedinthe1950sand’60s toim- nomic Achievements Exhibition). SSSR(USSREco- Narodnogo Khozyaystva forVystavka Dostizheny story –theystand tell halfthe still commonlyknown,VDNKh, sissky VystavochnyTsentr, VVTs; vichy Convent reted wallsontheMoscowRiver, A cluster of sparklingdomesbehindtur- NOVODEVICHY CONVENT&CEMETERY Outer Moscow www.lonelyplanet.com Soviet dream like this Nowhere andfallof sumsuptherise the ALL-RUSSIA EXHIBITION CENTRE h Cemetery in theStreltsy rebellion. Sofia forherpart imprisoned hishalf-sister notorious astheplacewhere Peter theGreat of SmolenskfromLithuania,theconvent is Founded in1524tocelebrate theretaking tivnaya) daily 8am-8pm,museumsWed-Mon10am-5pm; adult/student R150/75,photopermitR60; audio guide R100; Kosmonavtov; The soaring 100m titanium obelisk isa The soaring 100mtitanium Originally created inthe1930s,VDNKh Adjacent to the convent, 9am-6pm; m isrich withhistoryandtreasures. Memorial Museum ofCosmonauts Museum Memorial VDNKh). VDNKh).

(Novodevichy Kladbishche;admissionR30;(Novodevichy m %

h (Novodevichy Monastir; (Novodevichy The oldinitialsbywhich it’s Sportivnaya) 283 8197; adult/child R40/20, English h pavilions 10am-6pm,grounds9am- 10am-7pm Tue-Sun; exhibition centre exhibition centre isamongMoscow’s % 544 3400;www.vvc Novodevichy Novodevichy % m h 246 8526; Novode- m

VDNKh) (Vseros- grounds (Muzey (Muzey Spor- , a guideto also than renting aprivate bath.See p44 , for eral admission toshared facilitiesischeaper baths) allover town. Ifyouaren’t shy,gen- Bratiev Fonchenko10;admissionR30; Bratiev aristocratic Romanfeel toit. and themainshowerroomhasan almost the GothicRoomhasrich woodcarving ous sian figure skaters come from at where greatskates andsee allthose Rus- so take advantage of it.Youcanrent ice provides afirst-rate Sanduny. Nonetheless,thisnew,clean place the old-fashioned decadentatmosphere of authentic wartimememorabilia. films,lettersdocumentary andmuch other Union, andshowweapons,photographs, of themanyheroes theSoviethighlight rama of major every WWIIbattle. Exhibits Museum of Jewish Legacy History andHolocaust LegacyHistory ofJewish Museum of you?There are traditional to have itsteamed, washedandbeaten out What better way to copewithMoscowthan ACTIVITIES Tue-Thu, noon-7pmSun; ( War Patriotic seum oftheGreat as thememorial andmonuments,aswell endless fountains the Great Patriotic War. Theparkincludes This huge memorialcomplexcelebrates PARKVICTORY &AROUND glory daysof theSoviet spaceprogramme. of series displaysfromthe a high-concept cow. Kitay-Gorod translatescow. Kitay-Gorod as ‘Chinatown’, century –isone of theoldest partsof Mos- inthe13th which –settled Kitay-Gorod, This walking tourwinds itswaythrough TOUR WALKING Sun; 10pm Mon-Sat,2-10pmSun; women 2538690;Stolyarnyper7;hrR300; h room perhrfromR1200,generaladmission hr R500-700; general 9254633;www.sanduny.ru;Neglinnaya ul14;pri vate Bring yourpassport torent skates. or ( opposite ) % Banya on Presnya Banya onPresnya Sanduny Baths There’s no shortage of winter inMoscow, Make arrangements inadvancetovisitthe 8am-10pm) m 148 1907; Minskaya ul;admissionfree; 148 1907;Minskaya banya Park Pobedy) in thecity.Aworkof artinitself, banya istheoldestandmostluxuri- Chistye Prudy

Mp pp102-3; (Map , withinthepark,hasadio- MOSCOW •• Activities MOSCOW ••Activities Church ofStGeorge etiquette. Mp pp102-3; (Map m banya Park Pobedy). m Ulitsa 1905Goda) Mp pp102–3). (Map experience. % h

% ( % private 925 4631, 9254631, private 10am-5pm Tue- h men 2555306, bani 142 4185;ul Gorky Park . The 10am-6pm h (hot lacks 8am- 111 Mu-

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MOSCOW This historicalcomplexis down Teatralny pro tothegated walkway. around thisearlyKremlin suburb. that reinforced theearthenramperected meaning ‘wattle’.Itrefers tothepalisades but thenameactuallyderives from 112 icon tradethatalsotookplacehere. (3) Monastery cow’s then31bookshops.The of aprintingcentre, hometo26outof Mos- wassomething 19th century,Kitay-Gorod printed bookin1563.Upuntilthe early Fyodorov reputedly producedRussia’sfirst 15, isthe lion andunicornabove itsentranceatNo tobethemainroadVladimir.used toheadwestonNikolskaya ul,which right busieststreet.skaya ul,Kitay-Gorod’s Turn printer responsible forRussia’s first book. ofstatue IvanFyodorov, the16th-century Trinity Church, aswellthememorial Gorod andthefoundationsof the1493 tosurround Kitay- fortified wallthatused includes excavations of the16th-century Kremlin Teatralnaya pl

Metropol Vetoshny per Vetoshny Duration Distance Start WALK FACTS Finish Start attheHotel MetropolStart andwalkeast The green andwhite building,withthe Walk downTretyakovsky protoNikol- Hotel 3 MOSCOW •• Walking Tour MOSCOW••Walking

Teatralny proezd 4 2 Teatralnaya pl(

ul Nikolskaya

Staraya pl( Bogoyavlensky per Bogoyavlensky ὈὈ ὈὈ per Khrustalny Ὀ Ὀ Synod Printing House(2) Synod Printing Pl Revolyutsii

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Kitaygorodsky proezd Slavyanskaya 0.1 miles 200 m pl , and kita 14 , Tour Walking Kitay-Gorod seum interesting former Hotel Rossiyaisthesmallbutrather and agolden-domedcathedral. Sign (10) tower of the17th-century ition hall.Nextalongisthepointed bell Blessed (9) England’s first toRussia. emissaries peaked woodenroofs, wastheresidence of 16th-century dates from1795to1804.Thereconstructed bara’s Church(7) Hotel Rossiya. Thepink andwhite old homesandwhatremains of thegiant varka, which iscrowdedwithtinychurches, lent stopsforsouvenir hunters. and filledwithshops,includingsomeexcel- Varvarka. Itisnowcompletely renovated ulsIlyinkaand occupies theblockbetween The OldMerchants’ Court– Industry. theChamberofnow houses Commerceand the corneratNo6.Builtin1870s,it centuries. Theold cow’s financialheartinthe18thand19th century. oftheEpiphany(4) Monastery The church was builtinthe1690s,but side. ontheright-hand Epiphany Cathedral south, lookingfortheMoscowBaroque h the corner of ulVarvarka pl. and Staraya in theunderground passage at can be seen Kulikovo. Some remains of the oldcitywall whodiedin thebattleofmemorate those original wooden church onthissite to com- in 1687.In1380, Dmitry Donskoybuiltthe (14) ontheKulishka Saints Cathedral aya pl.Atthesouthern endof Pl, Staraya ing façadesof thesurroundingbuildings. Russian baroque hidden amidtheoverbear- (13) ity inNikitniki per. Theenchanting 1630s at No12dates from1658. nobles. Thecolourful tothelivesdevoted of high-ranking these Tucked thestreet inbetween andthe Built in1698,the Take another leftandheadeastonulVar- per.Turn leftandwalkdownKhrustalny Continue toulIlyinka,which wasMos- Turn leftonBogoyavlensky perand head Head perout toStar- eastonIpatyevsky Cross ulVarvarka andwalkup Ipatyevsky 10am-5pm Thu-Mon,11am-6pmWed) ( 11 , incorporatingthemonks’building ;

% at No4isnowafolk-artexhib- Romanov ChambersinZaryadieMu- Romanov 924 4529; ul Varvarka 10;admissionR150; 924 4529;ulVarvarka Old EnglishHouse(8) , nowgovernment offices, is anexquisite example of Stock Exchange(5) Church of St Maxim the Church ofStMaxim St George’s Church(12) St George’s www.lonelyplanet.com dates tothe13th Church oftheTrin- Gostinny Dvor(6) Monastery ofthe Monastery , white with , which is was built St Bar- is on All –

evening courses. evening the businessanddiplomaticcommunitywithless-intensive, R4480; .lidenz.ru; Gruzinskyper3-181,groundfl;16hrcourse Cat Theatre Theatre Cat than performing kitties?Atthe credible puppetsatthe museum. can get andpersonal upclose withthein- and adapted classicalplays;kids folk tales ul 3; pp102-3; lessons inbusiness,law,literature etc. signed courses,fromstandardconversationtospecialised m &prVernadkogo; 2-wk,40hrcourseUS$860; Khokhlova russian.com; MoscowStateUniversity,cnrulAkademika Ziegler &Partner Liden &DenzLanguageCentre courses. ments forRussian tutors andshort-term Check the Language for lunch. towhipupsomebliny,theneatthem Learn course. offer anoccasionalhalf-day does by, butPatriarshy DomTours (see right ) Russian cookingclasses are hard to come Cooking COURSES www.lonelyplanet.com at theatmospheric clowns anddaringacrobatics are alltherage video games. ( p111 parkridesand ) alsohasamusement experience, the ence forchildren. Foramore post-Soviet winter make ittheultimate Russian experi- thrilling ridesinsummerandiceskating in around. Ortake themto has aplaygroundandplentyof roomtorun such as offer thelittleones. or aSoviet herobutMoscowhasplentyto Kids may notappreciate anage-old icon FORMOSCOW CHILDREN tre. other Russianfavourite isthepuppetthea- 25) train the word ‘We donot use says, Kuklachev kinds of stuntstothe audience’sdelight. , Yuri Kuklachev’s acrobatic catsdoall , YuriKuklachev’s What better forkiddies entertainment Russia excelsatthecircus,and crazy For starters, thecityisfilledwithparks, Universitet) A Swiss group offering individuallyde- Universitet) ASwissgroupoffering m Obraztsov Puppet Theatre and Museum and Museum PuppetTheatre Obraztsov here it implies forcing an because m % Tsvetnoy Bulvar) Aleksandrovsky Garden Garden Aleksandrovsky Belorusskaya) More-expensive courses service courses service More-expensive Belorusskaya) 299 3310,5563;Sadovaya Samotechnaya Mp pp102-3; (Map Moscow Times ( % All-Russia Exhibition Centre All-Russia ExhibitionCentre runscolourfulRussian Nikulin Circus Nikulin /fax 9390980;www.study % Gorky Park 249 2907;Kutuzovsky pr ( % for advertise- 18) which ( p108), 254 4991;www 19) An- (p119). Kuklachev Kuklachev ( p110 ) – (Map (Map Gostiny Dvor. from per adult/child,11amand2.30pm).Toursdeparts andWednesday)Moscowcity tour (US$20/10 Friday Kremlin/Armoury tour(US$37/20,10.30amand3pm Gorod) Thisspin-offofPatriarshy Domoffers atwice-daily 4; .capitaltours.ru; GostinyDvor,ulIlyinka 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; May-Sep, uls;admission R80; Gruzinskaya &Bolshaya cnrBarrikadnaya 6367; www.zoo.ru/moscow; m Vokzal,Leningradsky9624; www.cck-ship.ru; Rechnoy sh51; Patriarshy DomTours Patriarshy near RedSq(Map pp102–3 ). Gorky Park andanotheratUstinsky Most are six intermediate stops,includingoneat most nearNovospassky Monastery. There zal (Map pp102–3 ) andtheNovospassky vok- Kievsky The mainroute runsbetween Moscow River isoneof thecity’shighlights. hours, 20minutes) departingevery onthe ride (adult/child R200/100,endto1½ good old-fashioned aboat transportation, bourhoods, fineviewsof theKremlin, orjust For new perspectives on Moscowneigh- TOURS of the highlight We force catstodoanythingtheydon’twantto. animal todosomething;andyoucannot erated bythe not justouttoenjoytheride)andare op- Muscovites are actuallygoingsomewhere, what’s on. to year;consult theMoscow newspapers for festivals are an ever-changing lot fromyear of the bread forthemasses, and circuses While Mayor Luzhkov isakeen proponent See p305 for a list FESTIVALS &EVENTS of Russianspectaculars. (May orJune) and e an obviousdestinationforchildren. to mid-October. Capital Tours Capital or online. the monthlyscheduleat Westernhotelsandrestaurants Day toursrangefromUS$16toUS$40perperson. Lookfor someprovideaccesstootherwiseclosedmuseums. subject; unique English-languagetoursonjustaboutany special ised per 6,MoscowschoolNo1239; 0927; http://russiatravel-pdtours.netfirms.com; Vspolny The boats seat about200people (most The boatsseat Standout seasons to visitare seasons late spring Standout Other useful tourcompanies: Other useful Rechnoy Vokzal). Rechnoy play withthecats.’Bigger catsare the Mp pp102-3; (Map Capital Shipping Company Capital Moscow Zoo Boats runfrommid-April MOSCOW ••Courses Mp pp102-3; (Map arly autumn (S m % h Barrikadnaya) Provides Barrikadnaya) 232 2442;www Mp pp102-3; (Map 10am-8pm Tue-Sun m % m Barrikadnaya) /fax 795 eptember Kitay- ( % % 113 458 255

, MOSCOW MOSCOW [email protected]; ulChaplygina8,No35;dm/s/d R300/ dreary March andApril. dreary March upotherwise in aprestigious awardsceremony. Brightens culminating drama, opera,danceandmusicalperformers, byRussia’spremier Twoweeksofperformances mask.ru) Museum of Fine Arts and on Red Sq. andonRed ofFineMuseum Arts to buildelaborateicesculptures infrontofthePushkin forthispurpose).Teamsof peopleusevodka compete for thosewithantifreeze intheirveins(thoughplenty plenty offood,fireworks andfun. Sqand with afestive parade,followedbylivemusiconRed inSeptember.year onthefirstweekend off The daykicks Galina’s Flat Galina’s Budget easy accesstothemetro. farfromthecentre,find yourself look for Districts are particularlylively. If youdo tertainment options.Tverskoy andArbat major andplentyof sights dininganden- den Ring,which guarantees easyaccessto The optimalarea iswithintheGar- tostay SLEEPING December NightsFestival City Day Interfest the TchaikovskyConservatory. at contemporary musicfestival yearinApril heldevery Moscow Forum Festival Golden Mask Festival Winter City Day,bothfestive timesinthecapital. city issprucedfortheMay holidaysand with floweringtrees orcolourful leaves. The or October),whenthecity’sparksare filled 114 classy surroundingsbythebestRussianandforeign talent. in to earlyJanuary.Classicalmusicatitsbest,performed ance halls,theatres andmuseumsfrommid-December June. Moscow InternationalFilm Festival, placein whichtakes m THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE Golden Apple acclaimed restaurant. This isthebest ofNew Russia:contemporary, creative and classy. drink inthe lounge–wallssplashed withcolour –ortodineatthe relatively subduedbuthighly down-filled duvets. Even droppingintohave a ifyoucan’t affordtospend thenight,it’sworth heated onluxurieslike bathroom floorsand is alsoparamount,with noskimping But comfort subdued whites andgreys punctuated bycontrastingcoloured drapes andfunkylightfixtures. the interior is sleek andsophisticated. The roomsare decorated inamodern,minimaliststyle– andstepsdistrict fromtheserenity ofHermitageGardens. Aclassicaledifice frontsthestreet, but ish, slickhotel isindeedanovelty. ofMoscow’s shopping The locationisprime–intheheart MOSCOW••Sleeping Pushkinskaya or Chekhovskaya; orChekhovskaya; Pushkinskaya (Den Goroda)Celebrates every the city’sbirthday ( %

917 2486; www.miff.ru) Short forthe 917 2486;www.miff.ru) Short Mp pp102-3; (Map An outdoor funfest during earlyJanuary Anoutdoorfunfest during ( % Mp pp102-3; (Map 290 5181;www.ccmm.ru)A ( % Held atthemainperform- 755 8335;www.golden % % 921 6038;galinas nai 980 7000; www.goldenapple.ru; ul Malaya Dmitrovka 11;rfromR9000; Dmitrovka 980 7000;www.goldenapple.ru; ul Malaya ) Calling itselfMoscow’sfirstboutiquehotel, thissmall- ments ifherplaceisfull. spot atherneighbours’ orinotherapart- support.Galinacanhelpyoufinda visa providelaundry facilities,butshedoesn’t ial. She hassixbeds,aswellkitchen and andconviv- apartment –cosy,comfortable feels like inyourfriend’scrowded staying that Galinarents atGalina’s out.Staying vate, Soviet-era flatwithafew extrarooms named hotel ontheleftsideof theroad. Pereyaslavskaya un- thetall, uluntilyou see bridge.the highway WalkalongBolshaya under away fromprMiraandturnright Travel ( p101 ). FromRizhskaya metro,walk Infinity ices available theaffiliated through out inthecommonlounge andtheserv- mosphere, thankstothetravellers hanging ages avibrant,hostel-like tomaintain at- on the10thfloorof adrabhotel, itman- for budget travellers. Despite itslocation this placeisstilloneof thebetter options Perhaps thefirst butnolonger theonly, ‘first andonly’budget accommodation. 540/750; R1440/1540; 7104; www.izmailovo.ru; Izmaylovskoesh71;s/dfrom steps tolovely Izmaylovsky Park. surrounds Izmaylovo market, it’sjustafew toescapethefreneticneed atmosphere that Ifyou snazziest andmostservice-oriented. isthe accommodation, butGamma-Delta hotel. Fourof thefive buildingsare budget apparently makingitEurope’sbiggest 1980 Olympics,thishotel has8000beds, .ru; Gostinichnypro8/1,fl3;dm/s/dR600/1200/1550; R1800; bathroomshared bathroomR1350/1650,dwithprivate ul50,fl10;dmR690,s/dwith Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya Travellers GuestHouse Travellers Hotel Izmaylovo Izmaylovo Hotel Hostel Sherstone Hostel m m Rizhskaya; Rizhskaya; Chistye Prudy; m Partizanskaya; Partizanskaya; i (Gamma Delta; (Gamma

( % ) i Calls itself Moscow’s itself Calls

( 711 2613;www.sherstone www.lonelyplanet.com % ) It’sjustthat–apri- i 631 4059; www.tgh.ru; 631 4059;www.tgh.ru; ) Builtforthe % 737 7187, century mansion itonce was. Itisakitsch hotel evokes the atmosphere of the 19th- est stretch of Ring, thissmall theBoulevard continue westonGostinichny pro. ulandmetro, crossbusyBotanicheskaya ices are FromVladykino alsosatisfactory. butroomsandserv- English-speaking staff, name. Itsmainadvantage isthe by thesame YHA hostel occupiesonefloorof ahotel which means‘Hotel Way’).Thisfriendly hotel district(thus,thenameof thestreet, somethingof Gardenscomprise a Botanical R2100/2700. with newfurniture andbathroomsare the atmosphere iscosy. Upgradedrooms plain. Butthereception iswelcomingand ongoing, sothecheapest onesare pretty tel Sherstone. Renovation of therooms is Gardens,about 1kmsouthoftanical Hos- of shortbrick buildings, alsoneartheBo- www.lonelyplanet.com East-West Hotel East-West Midrange m 4/9; s/dfromR1350/1500; m .eastwesthotel.ru; Tverskoy bul 14/4;s/dR4800/6500; Hotel Zarya Hotel apartments. with pricesdecreasing forlongerstays. topaymore Expect forfullyrenovated, Western-style but manyhave are photosavailableonline. aroundUS$80toUS$120pernight, Apartments for travellers inagroup,whocansplitthecost. agood-sizedOften, flatisavailableforthepriceofahotel roomorless. Itisanidealsolution Internet andsometimes with otherusefulamenitieslike Flats are access. equippedwithkitchens, modation, someentrepreneurial Muscovites have begunrenting outflatsonashort-term basis. Hotels ofaffordableaccom- inMoscowcaneasilybreak Inresponse yourbank. totheshortage FIND AFLAT Vladykino) Pushkinskaya; Pushkinskaya;

from US$80pernight. www.rentline.ru –offers for avarietyofcentrallylocated onlinereservations flats,starting www.hofa.ru –has term accommodationinRussia. www.flatmates.ru/eng –asite forsomebodytoshare fortravellers orlong- short- looking and Tsvetnoy Bulvarmetrostations. www.enjoymoscow.com – transfers andinternational phonecalls. www.apartmentres.com –billsitselfasgay-friendlylodging. Mostflatsincludefree airport options andwillhelpyoulocate one. night –isagreat deal.Healsomaintainsanextensive listofotherbudgetaccommodation www.unclepasha.com –UnclePasha isanunbelievablegrouch,buthisflat–atUS$75per Several forrent. websites varywidely, provide The informationaboutapartments apartments Thetree-lined streets westof the

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Rick’s apartments are betweenSukharevskaya offtheGardenRing apartments Rick’s 290 0404;www Acomplex .ru; s/dwithbreakfast fromR3300/3900; the hotel isexcellentvalue. some extracashforasuite (fromR5775), but not extend totheroomsunlessyoudish out district thatsurroundsit.Thegrandeur does re treat after strollingintheswankyshopping century neoclassicaledificemakes aperfect m Sverchkov per8;s/d with breakfast fromR2600/3000; its intimacy and hominess. are nothing special, thisplace isa rarity for therooms 18th-century building.Though this isa tiny 11-roomhotel in agraceful filled courtyard.Pricesincludebreakfast. decorated roomsandalovely fountain- but charming placewith 26individually to befoundhere. fast ismodest:no greed, gluttonyorsloth themselves are simplebutclean,andbreak- view of thebeautifulgrounds. The rooms name; nearlyalltheroomshavethe same a grounds of the 12th-centurymonastery of nis R3850/5450; linii2/18;s/dwithbreakfast .hotel-budapest.ru; Petrovskie Danilovskaya Hotel Hotel Danilovskaya Hotel Budapest Hotel Hotel Sverchkov Hotel Chistye Prudy) ) m Moscow’sholiesthotel isonthe Kuznetsky Most; Onaquiet residential lane,

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115 MOSCOW MOSCOW R2500; BolshayaSadovayaul5/1;dfrom .hotelpekin.ringnet.ru; in jeweltones–are worththeinvestment. doubles R3500/4200)–elegantlydecorated Theupgradedrooms(singles/ ble staircase. ceilings,parquetfloorshigh andthemar- of with thecasino,butthisplaceisblessed pasttheflashinglights pl. It’shardtosee prime locationtoweringover Triumfalnaya building boastsavation, thisStalinesque dykino; dykino; ul41;s/dwithbreakfast R2200/2890; tanicheskaya street, juststeps fromtheArbat. also very charming –onaquietresidential has ananachronistic charm. Itslocationis mirrors behind thebar. Thewholeplace camp, fromthegreenery-filled lobbytothe someappealingSovietmanages topreserve m 0994; Chistoprudnybul3;s/dwithbreakfast R2700/3000; 116 Aerotel Domodedovo Domodedovo Aerotel airport, orusetheNovotel’s free shuttle. airport, than thenearbyNovotel. Youcanwalkhere fromthe rfromR3450)More affordable airport; Sheremetyevo-2 m 0093; Plotnikovper12;s/dwithbreakfast fromR4320/5130; noisy butisconvenient toul Arbat. The advantage isthelocation,which canbe class’ accommodation(R4160toR5280). less youpayforupgraded‘tourist’or‘business- Rooms are similar–pokybutfunctional,un- aura. lobby,givingitaghost-town a stark Sheremetyevo-2 flights: tocrash between need Convenient to themetro. rooms remain (singles/doubles R800/1250). rated guestrooms.Onlyafew old-school from theelegantlobbytotastefully deco- completely revamped, The placehasbeen hotel Gardens. districtneartheBotanical namesake airport. Excellent value. airport. namesake distanceof its A brand-new hotel withinwalking s&dfromR3500; Domodedovo airport; Boulevard Ring. Boulevard modern buildingthatfrontstheprestigious in thisgrand, embassy. Butanyonecanstay to guestsandworkers of thenearby Kazakh m ul8;s/dR2560/2880; .hotel-belgrad.ru; Smolenskaya Hotel Peking Hotel Hotel Arbat Hotel Hotel Belgrad Hotel Kazakh EmbassyHotel Kazakh Recommended for transittravellers who Altay Hotel Altay Hotel Smolenskaya) Chistye Prudy) Smolenskaya) MOSCOW••Eating ai m Mayakovskaya) ) The classiest place to stay in the inthe The classiestplacetostay (

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Mp pp102-3; (Map % % % 244 7628;fax nas 209 2215;www 248 1643;www m % ) Vla- 208 1000; ul 32;sandwichesR200-300,brunchR400-600, mealsR600- 9200; 32;s/dinclbreakfast fromR7100/ tiflis.com; ulOstozhenka Vokzal) haute russe Correa’s Correa’s Restaurants at leastinteresting. ensure theirpatrons’diningexperiencesare interior, restaurateurs are goingallout to French restaurant withaGothic cathedral restaurant withalive cameloutfront,tothe restaurants are alltherage. Fromthe Uzbek cheesy hotel days,theme restaurant. These special occasions,nearlyidentical foodata cheap mealatthelocalcafeteria, orfor In Soviet days,eatingoutmeanteithera EATING patio. a balconyoverlooking thefountain-filled Ask foraroomwith personalised service. four-star offers anintimateatmosphere and name. Withonly30rooms,thisrefined ( opposite ), andnowthishotel bythesame the finerestaurants, like thelandmarkTiflis theproofGeorgians knowhospitality; is in Metropol Hotel End Top stained-glass ceilingintherestaurant. stopping injusttocheck outtheexquisite Located opposite theBolshoi;it’sworth rugsandearly-20th-centuryfurnishings. tal likedetails, windows,Orien- stained-glass is breathtaking, butthecharm liesinthe vidually decorated rooms.Theoverall effect lar exterior tothegrandlobbyindi- nookandcranny,fromthespectacu- every historic Metropol bringsanartistictouch to short of anArtNouveau masterpiece, the the utmost care. prepared withthefreshest ingredients and features is nothingtoofancy,buteverything pizzasandgrills– The menu–sandwiches, notfeel cramped,justcosy. thatitdoes tee windowsand an openkitchenLarge guaran- simple. Itisatinyspace of tables. onlyseven 10,500; .metropol-moscow.ru; Teatralny pro1/4;s/dfromR9000/ h skoy bul26a; businesslunchesR525, mealsR1500-2000; Hotel TiflisHotel Café Pushkin Pushkin Café 24hr; m h It’s hardtocharacterise aplacethat’sso m (Map pp102-3; (Map m Park Kultury or Kropotkinskaya; Park KulturyorKropotkinskaya; 8am-midnight; Teatralnaya; Pushkinskaya) dining, with anexquisite blend Mp pp102-3; (Map

Mp pp102-3; (Map Mp pp102-3; (Map % nais m The queen mother of The queen 933 4684; Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 933 4684;BolshayaGruzinskaya Belorusskaya orBelorussky Belorusskaya www.lonelyplanet.com % 733 9070;www.hotel % % nais 927 6000;www 229 5590; Tver- ) Nothing ) Arbat 11; m midnight) diced muttonand vegetables). fillingrice ality: tasty, Moscow’s bestnational cuisine. Thespeci- some of Asian Central eatery isserving up thediningroomare thesignthatthis the openkitchen andmore Uzbeks filling a restaurant tosuitanyideology. of brewed beer tasty on-site, andyou’ve got will befresh Addthree andsweet. varieties tic. Soyoumayget asideof peas,butthey Soviet fare isauthentic,butnottooauthen- upscale apparatchik diningexperience. The ismade tore-create effort No 5’,every an 2pm-midnight Sat&Sun; 22;mealsR800-1000; Sretenka for this comfortable, unclutteredfor thiscomfortable, space. simple cookingtechniques, anidealmatch mon denominatorisfresh ingredients and Spain andtheAmericanSouth.Thecom- including hisfavourite dishesfromItaly, is American,butthemenuwide-ranging, itional dishes andcheap beer. Outlets allover in trad- the cityspecialise cottage décoranditswell-stocked bar. salad lent Russian chain isbeloved foritscountry Klimentovsky per14; rooftoplibrary andapleasant café. on each floor,includingarichly decorated century buildinghasadifferent atmosphere food are donetoperfection. Thelovely 19th- and of RussianandFrench cuisines;service www.lonelyplanet.com Arbat 45/24;mealsR400-600) m 5;business lunchesR125-195,mealsR600-1000; Lubyanka Russian Minister ofForeignRussian Minister Affairs, IgorIvanov, whohappenstobeofGeorgian descent. winery inGeorgia. AccordingtoMoscowfoodies,Tiflis countsamong itsregular customersthe whenaccompaniedbytheTiflis delectable are particularly wine, producedbytherestaurateur’s is thickandrich,whilethe Tiflis THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE romantic andatmosphericsetting. Tiflis Caucasian takes cuisineupscale. The you are there. recall Itsairybalconiesandinterior a19th-centuryGeorgian courtyards mansion–a Russian wordfortheGeorgian capital,Tblisi,andwhenyouenter thisrestaurant, youmaythink Soviet republic ofGeorgia. AndTiflis isthebestplaceinMoscow.The name comes fromthe Moscow isthebestplaceoutsideCaucasus tosampletherich,spicycuisineofformer Yolki-Palki Yolki-Palki Eastern Quarter Eastern GlavPivTorg GlavPivTorg Simple Pleasures Simple Pleasures Lubyanka) Lubyanka) Kuznetsky Most);

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230 788 MOSCOW MOSCOW ( m pl6,Moskovsky Univermag; .ru; Komsomolskaya conservatory. conservatory. area outdoorseating infrontoflightful the The BolshayaNikitskayabranch hasade- a grab lar spot to ravioli withmeat) stuffed different kindsof time, a sign that it is tasty aswell ascheap.time, asignthat it istasty of Russianfavourites. It’spacked atlunch- nitskaya ul24; nitskaya 7570; Nikitsky bul8a; 7570; Nikitsky buffet R350; 25; mealsR800-1000; but the price is right. but thepriceisright. anyof items,the bestplacetosample these pork. It’snot to sushiandsweet-and-sour (soup frompickledvegetables andpotato) ranges buffet from The self-serve sian favourites. offers youaneasyapproach toalltheRus- black-and-white Holstein-print décor. It Moo-Moo Quick Eats ine withWestern andAsian influences. thebestofmodern dishes fuse Russiancuis- viewofa fantastic Lubyankasq.Innovative, centre, you’llfindthistiny,trendy caféwith On thetopfloorof theNautilusshopping notallowsmoking. place thatdoes drag. Coffee runsaroundR100;it’sthatrare large windowslookingoutontothemain architectural and ceilings, fantastic details 118 Ramstore Ramstore Self-Catering Arbat District Barrikadnaya 0075; Pushechnaya ul; h sky most4/3;breakfast R60,lunchR125,mealsR150-200; your Trans-Siberian journey. is an ultraconvenient place tostock upfor market –just opposite Yaroslavsky vokzal– midnight; h ul13,MoscowConservatory; 4310; BolshayaNikitskaya skaya); skaya); byanka) byanka) % Loft Cafe Cafe Loft Pelmeshka Drova Coffee Mania 8am-1am; Komsomolskaya) Komsomolskaya) 11am-midnight; MOSCOW••Drinking 229 3227; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7; 229 3227;ulBolshayaDmitrovka Lubyanka Lubyanka You willrecognise thisplacebyits m

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lenskaya) 500mL beerR120,mealsR600-800; m pl 1;businesslunchesR180,mealsR500-1000; h tralnaya pl 1; tickets R200-2000; tralnaya pl1;tickets the glistening white piano. the placeisdrapedinswankyred, except name refers toitscolour,notpolitics: tures funkydécorandafabulousview.The overlooking theMoscowRiver, Redfea- Bolshoi &Ballet Opera Music, Classical trythe a laugh, inFriday’s ment section magazine theweekly months. Tofind outwhat’sonsee Moscow can easilykeep youentertained for ENTERTAINMENT hour specials(5pmto8pmdaily). especially duringthetwo-for-one happy Thisisapopularspotfordrinking, tween. inbe- curryandeverything ribs, seafood with expats.Themenuincludesbarbecue newspapers andadiningroomcrowded ‘bootlegger’s bar’are wallsplastered inold Bar 30/7 DRINKING and silver fishposingonbedsof ice. coloured spicespouringoutof plasticbags; jars thatare asbigbasketballs; vibrantly withfreshhigh produce;goldenhoneyin piled tables what’sforsale: it’s funtosee ity andcolour. Even ifyouare notbuying, markets) are bustlingplacesfullof activ- sky val10; at the Bolshoi isstillone of Moscow’s most m zovsky pro;beersR175,mealsR1400-1750; place gets packed on weekends. promenade. Goodluck,astheboulevard area, youwillenjoyalovely viewof the ‘sunroom’seating intheattached a seat inMoscow.Ifyoucansnag and beseen Ringisthelatest placetosee the Boulevard a metre-long onthemenu. sausage screen, lagers andpilsners and ondraught, microbrewery features sportson thebig Red Bar Red Dorogomilovsky market Dorogomilovsky Tinkoff Real McCoy Real Kievskaya) Kievskaya) 24hr; Barrikadnaya) Barrikadnaya)

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A night Anight noon-3am; h m (food . For . For Smo- 24hr; organ concertsheldhere are impressive. the largest organ tosay, inRussia. Needless halls, includingSvetlanov Hall, which holds ern buildingopenedin2003.Ithasthree Ryad) per3; Kamergersky 4105; http://art.theatre.ru; both of which performhere. Theatre,and theMoscowClassicalBallet dancers alsoappearwiththeKremlin Ballet on balletandoperainMoscow.Leading Orchestra. Saturday). Add tothe mixhappy hours and (free lessons from 9pmto 11pmFriday to arethe other nights forDJs anddancing usuallyfeatureday nights live music,while music andRussianfun. Thurs- food, Latin ets R60-600; nab52/8;tick- 1011; www.mmdm.ru;Kosmodamianskaya Novaya Stena (newstage) willremain open. expecting toreopen in2008.Thesmaller itsmainstage forrenovations,ing toclose time of research, theBolshoiwasprepar- works intheglittering auditorium.At the nies performarange of Russianandforeign andopera compa- romantic options.Ballet www.lonelyplanet.com Karma Bar Karma Nightclubs pl 1/6; schedules are subjecttochange. the animalsandacrobats. Performance mixes dance,cabaret androckmusicwith & Sun; R50-500; 13; tickets pp102-3; Theatre MoscowArt Chekhov &Circus Theatre works. in 1824,performing mainly19th-century ul 3;coverR100-200; can Studio of Russianclassics performedbythe ago. Watch forEnglish-language versions method actingwasfoundedover 100years Sad) 1; ulVozdvizhenka .kremlin-gkd.ru; kovskaya) pl4/31; 3957; www.philharmonia.ru; Triumfalnaya Sun; Tchaikovsky Concert Hall Concert Tchaikovsky Moscow International House of Music HouseofMusic Moscow International State Kremlin Palace Kremlin State Maly Theatre Maly Nikulin Circus Nikulin m The Bolshoi does nothaveThe Bolshoidoes amonopoly Also known as MKhT, thisiswhere AlsoknownasMKhT, m m

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(Map pp102-3; (Map (Old CircusatTsvetnoy Map Boulevard; h h Alovely theatre founded Thu & Fri 7pm,2.30pm&6pmSat Thu &Fri A worldlymixof Asian Theshow here usually 7pm-6am Thu-Sat,11pm-6am (Map p106; (Map . % This graceful,mod- % Mp pp102-3; (Map

924 5633;Pushechnaya Mp pp102-3; (Map 923 2621;Teatralnaya m % Aleksandrovsky 928 5232;www m m ( Okhotny Okhotny Ameri- % % % Maya- 632 730 299 10pm; toustinsky per7;mealsR300-400; anka) friendly place,especiallyonSundaynights. Thisisagay- and lettheDJdohisstuff. theyclearthedancefloor by day,butatnight young folksturnoutindroves. whenDJsspincoolmusicand urday nights, floor isworthwatching onFridayandSat- watching thedancefloor. And thedance comfy armchairs, andabalconyidealfor now features blackandwhite photos,deep, Converted fromatextile factory,thisplace trendy placethatwon’tbustthebudget. & Sun; Sadovaya 8; ground floor. There isa big,crowded food court onthe andareto allincome levels usuallypacked. times have changed. Now thestores cater expensive boutiques andnopeople, but 1990s, thismall was originallyfilledwith thing you might wantforasouvenir.thing youmight Soviet paraphernaliaandjustabout any- packed withart,handmadecrafts,antiques, Artists ( p110 ) intheArbatDistrict. of House also gallerieswithintheCentral and intheunderground walkway. There are opposite theentrancetoGorkyPark ( p110 ), onulKrymsky val, uptheirstalls Artists set SHOPPING music (nightly). place togrababite toeatandlisten tolive thesmoke,ing. Ifyoucanstand it’sacool booksandfunkycloth- this caféalsosells Crowded withgrungy,artsystudenttypes, cow’s topexpatclubs. hookah pipesandyou’ve gotoneof Mos- drinks, andlive night. musicalmostevery of pricey shops. ahuge collection It houses initself. sight of RedSq,this19th-centurybuilding isa ter club skaya 12; skaya per 10/5;mealsR200-500; R200-300; pl; bilingua Propaganda GUM Izmaylovo market Izmaylovo Both Keks kon Ryad Okhotny h Thislongtimefavourite placeisacafé m m 11am-10pm; (Map p106; (Map h ( Ploshchad Revolyutsii) Ploshchad Revolyutsii) Bunker h % B-2 Partizanskaya) m 10pm-7am; Mp pp102-3; (Map 11am-late;

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921 5763;Krasnayapl3; m (admission R15; Okhotny Ryad) Okhotny This sprawlingarea is m h Mayakovskaya) have cheap foodand % Park Kultury) % % On theeastern side 24hr; h 923 6683; Krivokolenny 923 6683;Krivokolenny % 737 8449; Manezhnaya 737 8449;Manezhnaya % 209 9918; ul Bolshaya 209 9918;ulBolshaya noon-7am; m 924 5732;BolZla- 200 1506;ulTver- Builtinthe h Chistye Prudy) anditssis- 9am-6pm Sat Finally, a h m

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Luby- 119 MOSCOW MOSCOW ul Petrovka 20/1; ul Petrovka www.sheremetyevo-airport.ru) m Business Centre Parus, Yamskaya 1-yaTverskaya ul23; Delta AirLines Airways British Air France tional airportis Siberian railroad.Moscow’smaininterna- todestinationsalongtheTrans- flights mostinternational andmost flights service Of Moscow’sfive airports,twoof them Air GETTING THERE &AWAY 120 .delta.com; Gogolevsky bul11; .delta.com; Gogolevsky Val 7; Aeroflot Aeroflot include: agencies (see p101 inMoscow ). Airlineoffices fly inandoutof Domodedovo. now allBritish Airwayflights Most notably, more international flights. order toservice gone extensive upgradesinrecent years in 40km southof thecitycentre, hasunder- accessible byshuttlebus), the citycentre. Acrosstherunways(and pean Russia. to/from StPetersburg andnorthernEuro- especially manydomesticflights, services per day (hr) fare (R) eaeibr 1 2½ 5300-5400 Yekaterinburg 11 Destination Flights Du FROM MOSCOW SAMPLE DOMESTICFLIGHTS Vladivostok 3-4 2800-3500 50min Ulan-Ude 1 3600-6800 5½ Tyumen 6 20 4 Tomsk 1 2½ 9500 St Petersburg 3 6 Perm 2 4400-5700 Omsk 2 6800 2 Novosibirsk 3 Nizhny Novgorod Krasnoyarsk 1 4½ 5000-5150 8 3500-4800 3 Khabarovsk 6950 11,980 2 Kazan 2 Irkutsk 1 Chita 5 5½ 2500-2900 8500-9000 You canbuyairlinetickets atmosttravel Domodedovo Domodedovo Belorusskaya) MOSCOW •• Getting There &Away MOSCOW••Getting m Mp pp102-3; (Map Oktyabrskaya) ( % (Map (Map pp102-3 ; 937 3839; www.airfrance.ru; ul Korovy 937 3839;www.airfrance.ru; m (Map (Map pp102-3 ; ( % weekly 6 Chekhovskaya) Chekhovskaya) Sheremetyevo-2 Sheremetyevo-2 2 1 1800-2300 933 6666;www.domodedovo.ru) % 753 5555;www.aeroflot.ru; m , 30kmnorthwestof % 8½ ration On % Kropotkinskaya) 937 9090;www 363 2525; Sheremetyevo-1 12,500-13,800 10,000 ( % e-way 956 4666; ,

Moscow’s Severny Rechnoy Vokzal. Rechnoy Moscow’s Severny regularly from noy Vokzal)Operatestransitboatsdeparting Vokzal,Leningradskoe-ship.ru; Rechnoy sh51; Capital Shipping Company Capital anicepark. shandthrough gradskoe 15 minutes duewest,passingunderLenin- the metrotoRechnoy vokzal,thenwalk pr 18; MoscowHotel,Olimpiysky Renaissance .lufthansa.com; villages and Golden Ring towns. villages andGoldenRing between MoscowandStPetersburg, withstopsinlittle of11- and15-daycruises aseries Hayward CAUSA)Offers www.cruiserussia.com; 3401InvestmentBlvd,Ste3, Tverskaya YamskayaTverskaya ul5; Belorussky vokzal so confirmthearrival/departure station. destination, the same may service stations Multiple Moscow hasnine mainstations. Train cially fortravel onFridayorweekends. tobookahead,espe- bad, soit’sadvisable 8km eastof thecitycentre. Queuescanbe similar to ies within700kmof Moscow.Busfares are runtoanumberofBuses townsandcit- Bus International Cruise Marketing 4050; Leningradskoe sh51; Vokzal erny Rechnoy isthe sailings cow terminus forthese itdependsontheroute.although TheMos- isgenerally Maytion season toSeptember, Astrakhan orRostov-on-Don. The naviga- way northtoStPetersburg, andsouthto ply therivers andcanalsof Russiaallthe boatsfromMoscow In summer,passenger Boat per 3; Transaero SAS Lufthansa KLM RoyalDutchAirlines .com; ulUsachyova33/2; Republic; andsuburban trains to/fromthe west. Republic; Warsaw, Vilnius,Berlin; some trainsto/from theCzech Minsk, trains to/fromSmolensk, Kaliningrad, Serves % the busterminal, gotothelong-distance a seat the crowded, buttheyare usuallyfaster than carriage) trainfares.ised tend tobe Buses Mp pp102-3; (Map 251 6093; Tverskaya Zastava pl; 251 6093;Tverskaya Shchyolkovsky busstation Shchyolkovsky prigorodny m m Smolenskaya) Smolenskaya) Prospekt Mira) Mp pp102-3; (Map Mp pp102-3; (Map kupe (suburban)trains.Tobook % (Belarus Station; Map (BelarusStation; Map pp102-3 ; ( kupeyny; 775 4747;www.sas.ru; 1-ya (Northern River Station; River (Northern m m % % m ( Sportivnaya) Mayakovskaya) % www.lonelyplanet.com ( 241 4800;Smolensky2-y 737 6400;www % Rechnoy Vokzal) Rechnoy 258 3600;www.klm

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Kazansky vokzal Kazansky www.lonelyplanet.com ban trains to/from the southeast, including Bykovo airport. ban trainsto/fromthesoutheast,includingBykovoairport. theVolga;andsubur- Novgorod, theUralMountains,Siberia; Novorossiysk, CentralAsia;someto/fromVladimir,Nizhny Ryazan,Ulyanovsk,Samara, Ufa, Izhevsk, to/from Kazan, pl; 6556; Komsomolskaya asw01 21p eau 2 2200 1588 3800 20 1560 15 101 15 Belarus Belorussky Leningradsky Yaroslavl 22.15pm 7.01pm 6.15pm 9.30pm Trans-Siberian Train Fares fromMoscow Warsaw 011 Vilnius 005 Ulaanbaatar 006 Tallinn 034 em08 .0m Yrsal 0 2300 3550 5300 20½ 41 300(seat) 6400 46 Yaroslavl 4½ Kazan 59 10.45pm 9.40pm Yaroslavl 8.16pm† Yaroslavl Kursk 4.35pm† 4.35pm 4.55pm Tomsk 038 11.30pm Perm 018 Omsk 048 Novosibirsk 026 Nizhny Novgorod062 Krasnoyarsk 056 010 Irkutsk ldmr86 .4m Krk ½ 208 2350 2½ 26 Kursk Kazan 6.04pm 4.08pm 9.20pm days note: * odddays †even Yekaterinburg 016 Vladimir 816 Vladivostok 002 9.20pm Fare (R) Duration(hr) Station time 002 Departure Chita Destination &trainno 10.25pm Fare (R) Duration(hr) Station time Departure Almaty 008 Destination &trainno hrhv09 .5m Krk 3 700 3650 6413 13 22 132 Kursk 11.23pm Yaroslavl Belarus 9.25pm 9.51pm 2.06pm Kyiv 001 019 Kharkhiv 029 Kaliningrad Beijing 004 aa 2 72p aa 1 1150 11 Kazan 7.28pm 1200 9.20pm 10 002 Khabarovsk 028 Kazan Belorussky 10.25pm R 001 Minsk ymn00 .0m Kzn 5 2800 35 Kazan 9.20pm 5.40pm† Ulan-Ude 002 Tyumen 060 International TrainsfromMoscow 164 160 ri o&nm Dpruetm Sain uain(r Fare (R) Duration(hr) Station 24 time Departure 6 4 2 Train no&name Trains fromMoscowtoStPetersburg TRAINS DEPARTING FROM MOSCOW Ekspress Krasnaya Strela ī Nikolaevsky Ekspress Nikolaevsky a01 .1m Rzsy 1 2030 16 Rizhsky 7.11pm ga 001 Yunost ER200 Avrora 12.30pm – 8 1300 (seat) 11.59pm – 8 1700 .8m 4 1700(seat) 4½ – 6.28pm .0m 5 1300(seat) 5½ – 4.30pm (Kazan Station;M (Kazan 11.55pm – 8 1700 1.0m 8 1700 – 11.30pm m Komsomolskaya) Serves trains trains Serves Komsomolskaya) ap pp102-3 ; % * * * * * * * * Kznk 7 4100 78 Kazansky Yrsal 3 9060 135 Yaroslavl Yrsal 4 8000 6600 149 85 Yaroslavl Yaroslavl Kesy 4 1033 14 Kievsky Yrsal 5 5600 55 Yaroslavl Yrsal 4 8000 94 Yaroslavl Yrsal 7 5400 77 Yaroslavl 264 264 and Perm. has sometrainsto/fromVladimir,NizhnyNovgorod Italso Azerbaijan. Georgia, eastern Ukraine,Crimea, heading southandeast,includingtotheCaucasus, 2003; plKurskogoVokzala; Kursky vokzal MOSCOW •• Getting There &Away MOSCOW ••Getting (KurskStation;M m Kurskaya) Serves trains Serves Kurskaya) ap pp102-3 ; %

916

121 MOSCOW MOSCOW Murmansk, Tallinn,Murmansk, Helsinki. Tver, Novgorod,Pskov,Serves StPetersburg, Vyborg, % Siberia, theFarSiberia, East,ChinaandMongolia. somolskaya pl; somolskaya to/from thenorthwest. m GlavAgenstvo GlavAgenstvo tickets withmanyoutletsaroundtown: may charge considerablemark-ups. careful of international travel agencies that fee, butbe agencies charge asmallservice veniently foundinhotel lobbies.Most local (railway ticket are These office). often con- agent (see p101 ) or it ismuch easiertobuytickets fromatravel your passportalongwhenbuyingaticket. but thisislesslikely insummer. Alwaystake may beavailable onthedayof departure, tickets inadvance. Tickets onsometrains trainsit’sbesttobuyyour For long-distance Yaroslavl vokzal vokzal Savyolovsky vokzal Rizhsky vokzal Paveletsky Leningradsky vokzal vokzal Kievsky 122 this route, buttakes much longer. minutes or less.City bus551 also follows as they are full, which isabout 30 every direction. They make thejourney as soon Sheremetyevo-2 asthemiddle stopineither Rechnoy vokzalandSheremetyevo-1, with travelnational airport. Minibuses between convenient way toreach themaininter- end of 2007.Inthemeantime, there isno to Sheremetyevo airport isexpected bythe An express trainfrom Savyolovsky vokzal Airport To/From the AROUND GETTING south, includingtheexpress traintoDomodedovoairport. pl; Paveletskaya Leningradsky vokzaly. aswellBelorusskyand airport, are inSheremetyevo-1 Tverskoy bul14/5; Teatralny pro5/1; suburban trains to/from the north. suburban trainsto/fromthenorth. pl SavyolovskogoVokzala; southwest. and Prague,aswellsuburbantrainsto/fromthe 1115; pl Kievskogo Vokzala; 1115; plKievskogo One agency selling airplaneandtrainOne agency selling Tickets are but soldatthetrainstations, 262 9143; Komsomolskaya pl; 262 9143;Komsomolskaya Rizhskaya) Serves Latvia, aswellsuburbantrains Latvia, Serves Rizhskaya) MOSCOW •• Getting Around MOSCOW••Getting m m (Riga Station; (Riga Mp pp102-3) (Map (Kyiv Station; Map (KyivStation;Map pp102-3 ; m m Yrsal Station; (Yaroslavl Komsomolskaya) Serves mosttrainsto Serves Komsomolskaya) Paveletskaya) Serves trainsheading Serves Paveletskaya) (Pavelets Station; Lubyanka); Lubyanka); (SavyolovStation; Pushkinskaya) Additionaloutlets Pushkinskaya) (Leningrad Station;M m kassa zheleznoy dorogi m Savyolovskaya) Serves Serves Savyolovskaya) % Lubyanka Lubyanka Kievskaya) Serves Kyiv Serves Kievskaya) Tverskoy m 631 1588; Rizhskaya pl; pl; 631 1588;Rizhskaya % Komsomolskaya) Komsomolskaya) % % ( 921 5914;Kom- ( % % 235 0522; ap 285 9005; % 924 8728; 290 2771; pp102-3 ; pp102-3 240

to arrange one in advance (see to arrange oneinadvance(see below ). should notcostmore thanR800.It’sbetter and takes about45minutes (withnotraffic) Sheremetyevo airportandthecitycentre Taxi; one to 1½ hours, depending on traffic. one to1½hours, dependingontraffic. centre isR700toR800,withthetriptaking Alternatively, fare ataxi to/from the city check atthetrainstation. intoyourflight route isparticularlyconvenient, asyoucan dedovo airport(R100,45minutes). This Taxi Reservation Office Office Taxi Reservation morecontain thanoneperson. It’s bestto avoid ridingin cars thatalready if youdon’tlike thelookof itsoccupants. any change. to wave Don’thesitate onacar cab hasone),and few willadmittohaving Nodriverthe same. ameter ifthe (even uses green inthe windscreen light –charge about uerboard logoon thesideand/orasmall R150 foraridearoundthecitycentre. topayR100 Expect if thepriceisright. Almost anycarinMoscowcould beataxi Taxi time.queuing every 20 forR195),which saves youthehassleof a multiple-rideticket (10ridesforR120, are sold atticket booths. tobuy It’suseful side by‘M’signs.Magnetic tickets (R13) systems combined. more thantheLondonandNewYorkCity nine millionpeopleadayridethe metro, they get packed during rushhour. Upto for more thantwominutes. Nonetheless, reliable: youwillrarely waitontheplatform gilded worksof art.Thetrainsare generally of are thestations marble-faced, frescoed, est wayof getting aroundMoscow.Many The metroistheeasiest,quickest andcheap- Metro usually soldonthevehicle. away fromthecitycentre. Tickets (R10)are andforreachingthe metromisses, sights along afew radialorcross-town routes that andtramsare trolleybuses usefulBuses, Bus, Trolleybus & Tram ( m An express trainleaves arrangedA taxi onthespot between To book a taxi inadvance, callthe To book a taxi –recognisable taxis bythecheq- Official areThe 150-plusstations marked out- % Paveletskaya) Paveletskaya) 927 0000; www.cbz-taxi.ru). every half-hour forDomo- half-hour every (Tsentralnoe Byuro Zakazov Byuro Zakazov (Tsentralnoe www.lonelyplanet.com Pavelets vokzal Pavelets Central Central

The townscovered here are accessiblefrom of destinations. Russia’smost delightful of architectural andartisticriches –isone ous, magicaltimes. church doors; recall historicaltales mysteri- belfries; robedholymenscurrythrough ringout fromtowering the horizon.Bells onion domesof theirmonasteries stillmark thegoldenspirescities stillstand; and whitewashed wallsof once-fortified these theas theGoldenRing.Inmanycases, in theclutch of townsthatisnowknown Ancient Rusgrew upnortheastof Moscow MOSCOW AROUND www.lonelyplanet.com 4 1 3 2 SERGIEV POSAD ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ The Golden Ring–socalledforitswealth ul Pravo ul Pushkarskaya

Levo nadprudnaya Parkhomenko ul ul Ilinskaya ul nadprudn

aya AC ul Favorskogo ul

ul Suvorova

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Kooperativnaya ul Kooperativnaya

pr Krasnoy Armii 9 per Sportivny per 3 5 7 Stadium 6 8 4 1 B Krasnogorskaya

Ὀ Ὀ

Sergievskaya ul Sergievskaya

ul Voznesenskaya Aptekarsky per 1-ya Rybnaya ul Rybnaya 1-ya 11 13 pl 12 Station Vokzalnaya

Train ul Voznesenskaya ul

pl Mitkina 2 pr Krasnoy Armii

ul Karla Marxa per Vokzalny per Pozharny astery and patron saint ofastery andpatronsaint allof Russia. The donezh, founderof thelocalTrinityMon- of tributes StSergius Posad Ra- of Sergiev Andsothetown no townwithoutasaint’. withoutajustman;thereno settlement is According tooldRussian wisdom,‘there is pop 100,000/ % POSAD SERGIEV enchanting GoldenRingdestination. route andstopoffatSuzdal( p132 ), themost Siberian travellers take this shouldcertainly train route headingeastintotheUrals.Trans- Church, Vladimir( p130 ), isastopalongthe ofcapital ancientRusandtheOrthodox Moscow bydaytrip.Additionally,theold Sriv Posad Sergiev 10 per Ovrazhny 254 fromMoscow, AROUND MOSCOW •• Sergiev Posad AROUND MOSCOW••Sergiev

ul Pionerskaya h Trinity Monastery ofStSergius Sberbank Trinity Cathedral Cathedral oftheAssumption Bell Tower SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Почтамт Post &Telephone Office INFORMATION Grave ofBorisGodunov Chapel-at-the-Well SLEEPING Vestry Bus Station TRANSPORT Restaurant Russian Court Hotel Russian Court EATING Trapeza naMakovtse Троице Троицкий Могила Надкладезная Успенский Трапеза Русский Русский пункт Moscow Ризница

...... % СЕРГИЕВ

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...... Ресторан Гостиница ......

Лавра ......

...... D ПОСАД ...... 13 12 10 11 1 7 3 2 6 5 4 9 8 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 A2 B1 B4 B2 C2 B2

123 MOSCOW MOSCOW tier baroque appeared duringthe Polish siege. Thefive- was built over tohave a spring thatissaid drei Rublyov and hisstudents. the workof thegreat painter An- medieval festooned interior, litbyoillamps,islargely day.Theicon- onallday,every goes service the southeastern corner,where amemorial astery. in Thetombof stands St Sergius Cathedral remove hatsinthechurches. andmen are requiredwear headscarves, to photo graphing them. Female visitors should in residence; visitors shouldrefrain from centre withavisiblepopulationof monks Outside thesoutheasternwallofmonastery. photos R150; Lavra; The Sights Sberbank office Post &telephone Information 400m northof here. Krasnoy Armii.Themonastery isabout corners of awide square totheeastof pr areThe trainandbusstations onopposite thetowncentre.ning north–souththrough venture furtheraroundtheGoldenRing. option fortravellers whodon’thave timeto easy daytripfromMoscow–arewarding of MoscowontheYaroslavl road.Itisan is60kmfromtheedge Posad gorsk, Sergiev tual sustenance. has provided Russiawithcenturies of spiri- window intotheage-old beliefsystem that Keeper of Russia. Thismysticalplaceisa of believers candlestoStSergius, light babushkas fillbottlesof holywater; crowds priestsbustleabout;Orthodoxy. Bearded andactiveportant in Russia –exudes monastery –todayamongthemost im- 124 Exchange facilitiesavailable,butnoATM. is the a partof guidedtours. Outside the westdoor tothegeneral publicbutincludedas closed name in theMoscowKremlin.same Itis tion Nearby, the resplendent The star-spangled Built inthe1420s,squat,dark Pr KrasnoyArmiiisthemainstreet, run- Often calledbyitsSoviet nameof Za- MOSCOW••Rostov-Veliky was modelledon thecathedralof the Trinity Monastery ofStSergius Monastery Trinity % grave 45 356, 45 350; admission free, guided tour R600, 45 356,350;admissionfree, guidedtourR600, (pr KrasnoyArmii; is theheartof theTrinityMon- h of BorisGodunov. the tsar bell tower 10am-6pm) (prKrasnoyArmii127A) Cathedral oftheAssump- Cathedral isanactive religious took 30years tobuild h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Chapel-at-the-Well

(Troitse-Sergieva (Troitse-Sergieva Trinity Trinity

131; mealsR500-800; inside, where live musicplaysnightly. spires and cupolas.Diningisalsopleasant tory’ isalfresco diningintheshadowof the of this‘refec-tion, location.Thehighlight Armii 134;mealsR500-800; despite therusticstyle. washed walls.Theplaceisquite modern, outaboveonion domespeeking white- hotelat thisdelightful boastviewsof the visitors guardwhen its silver off domes and the magnificent Rostov kremlin catches of village. asleepy Perhaps forthis reason, the Great’, this towngives theimpression For aplacecalled Rostov-Veliky, or‘Rostov % ROSTOV-VELIKY minutes). from8.30amto7.30pm (R50,70 half-hour departevery metro station cow’s VDNKh Aleksandrov. (five hours), youmayhave tochange at to Rostov-Veliky (3½hours) orYaroslavl orAleksandrov. Posad Sergiev Togonorth (R55, 1½hours); take anytrainboundfor vokzal toRostov (onehourfromMoscow). express trainfromMoscow’sYaroslavsky optionisthe daily The fastest transportation &Away There Getting Sat &SunR1700/2100; fromR1500/1900, 14/2;s/dwithbreakfast Mon-Fri ul Mitkina Hotel Russian Court Sleeping & Eating the largest of 65tonnes. which weighed in the18thcentury,andoncehad42bells, groups insummer. try cuisine. Theplaceispopularwith tour dress inpeasant andheartycoun- wait staff dacha. itfeatures Appropriately enough, this restaurant isdecorated like aRussian withthehotel name, bythesame confused and more. encrusted vestments, solid-gold chalices the rich jewel- andpowerful–tapestries, ury, bulgingwith600years of donationsby the monastery’s extraordinarilyrich treas- Sun) Russian Court Restaurant Russian Court Bus services to Sergiev Posad from Mos- Posad toSergiev Bus services half-hour Suburban trainsalsorunevery The Trapeza naMakovtse 48536 /pop40,000 / , behind the Trinity Cathedral, displays , behindtheTrinityCathedral, vestry vestry (admission R160; h pa ( % РОСТОВ 10am-9pm) h

75 392; www.zolotoe-koltso.ru; 75 392;www.zolotoe-koltso.ru; ( % h www.lonelyplanet.com ) Someof therooms 10am-9pm)

41 101;prKrasnoyArmii h ( Moscow % Location,loca- 10am-5.30pm Wed- - 45 114;prKrasnoy ВЕЛИКИЙ Nottobe

1680s. buildings here date fromthe1670sand founded inthe12thcentury,nearlyall R5, exhibitseachR15-25; photogenic Rostov’s mainattraction is itsunashamed ly Sights north of thekremlin. in thedrabmodernpartof Rostov, 1.5km arecow. Thetrainandbusstations together oldest, first chronicled in862. Nero.shimmering Lake Itisalsooneof the of GoldenRingtowns,idyllicallysited on dusty streets. Rostov isoneof theprettiest whitewashed stonewallsappearamid the www.lonelyplanet.com Oktyabrskaya ul Oktyabrskaya Manor (500m) To Pleshanov's 4 1 3 2 ROSTOV-VELIKY

ul Podozyornaya Rostov isabout220kmnortheast of Mos-

ul Pokrovskaya To Yaroslavl

ul Kommunarov ul ul Dekabristov ul (57km)

Church Church ofthe Church ofHodigitria Assumption Cathedral SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Церковь Церковь Церковь Успенский Fevralskaya ul Saviour-over-the-Galleries AC kremlin

...... ul Lunacharskogo ul Station Спаса Одигитрии Train

собор See Enlargement Bus Station Kremlin

- Rostov Ὀ ὈὈὈ

на ul Belinskogo ul ( h ...... % - Сенях School ...... 10am-5pm) 61 717;admissiongrounds

...... ul Pushkina ul 4 3 2 1 ul 50-letiya Oktyabryaul Karla Marxa ul Okruzhnaya

ul Spartakovskaya D3 D3 C2 D2 . Although the Ascension Lake Nero B Church of Gate-Church ofStJohntheDivine Gate-Church White Chamber Red Chamber Metropolitan’s House oftheResurrection Gate-Church ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Богослова Покои Воскресения Надвратная Надвратная

митрополита ul Volodarskogo ul

ul Proletarskaya ...... ul Gogolya Красная

церковь церковь Белая ...... sions office, inthewestgate,sions office, forR250. which canbearranged theexcur- through The monksplaymagnificentbellconcerts, largest, 32tonnes,iscalledSysoi. weighing 15 bellsinthebelfryhasitsownname; ofthe belfrywasaddedin1680s.Each here acenturybefore thekremlin, while shop onulKarla Marksa. Thecathedralwas thedoor inthechurchcathedral through hours, youcanget into the service Beyond itisjustoutsidethe northwall. although of theR Church ofStJohntheDivine the northgate are straddledbythe sumption Rostov-Veliky

Market

палата

палата The westgate (themainentrance)and With itsfive magnificentdomes,the ......

Иоанна Revolyutsii ul Sovetskaya 12 ...... esurrection pl

Cathedral Cathedral 9 8 7 6 5 D3 D3 D3 D2 D3 MOSCOW ••Rostov-Veliky 0 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Gate West SLEEPING Gift Shop SHOPPING Slavyansky Refectory Chamber EATING Vault House Трапезная , bothof which are richly 2 dominates thekremlin, ul Bebelya Мгазин Славянский 1 5 Дом North Gate

Палата Kremlin and the 8 Rostov 11 4 6

на - салон

Погребах ...... 50 m 7 ...... 13 9 ...... To Post&Telephone 10

Gate-Church Gate-Church ul Marshala Alexeyeva Marshala ul 3 Alexeyeva Marshala ul Gate East ..... Office (1km) Arcades Trading 13 12 11 10 Gate- D3 C2 D3 D3

125

As- MOSCOW MOSCOW the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions on oursite foralonger wayof saying youknow, orresell it. See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake with exhibits:the roomsarecolourful frescoes. These filled the mostbeautifulinterior of all,covered in Church oftheSaviour-over-the-Galleries and paraphernalia. exhibition of Orthodox Church vestments at thegiftshop behind the northgate. Don’tleave without stopping gate, youcanalsoenter thekremlin through speciality. shows off ligious antiquities,whilethe Pleshanov’s Manor Manor Pleshanov’s Sleeping & Eating churches, the from May toSeptember. thegate- Between arewithin thecomplex,these onlyopen the northgate. Like otherbuildings several which youcanaccessfromthestairs next to churchesthese fromthemonastery walls, decorat 126 © LonelyPlanetPublications home-brewed shop for R1200; Sat&SunR1500; 34;rMon-Fri www.hotel.v-rostove.ru; ulPokrovskaya cosy library and wood sauna. The charmcosy libraryandwoodsauna. a welcominginnwithnicerestaurant, chant andphilanthropistfamily–isnow –oncetheresidencemanor house of amer- The metropolitan’s private chapel,The metropolitan’s the Although theticketAlthough isinthewest office MOSCOW••Rostov-Veliky ed with17th-centuryfrescoes. Enter finift finift finift (enamelware), aRostov artistic Church ofHodigitria medovukha souvenirs the andtosample (Usadba Pleshanova; is White Chamber White Metropolitan’s House Metropolitan’s ) This19th-century (honey ale). displaysre- Red Chamber Red houses an houses % 76 440; , has to

that varyinsizeandview. this placehasclean,wood-panelledrooms inside thekremlin, andneartheeastgate, R350/600, d with private bathroomR1400-1600) R350/600, dwithprivate the towncentre. which requires changing atAleksandrov. slavl. Youcanalsocatch asuburbantrain, trains stopatRostov-Veliky enroute toYaro- Moscow. Other somelong-distance wise, (R180, three hours) isthefastest trainfrom fromYaroslavskyThe express service vokzal &Around There Getting OctoberandApril. decrease between but bland.Prices,which includebreakfast, the rooms,which are modernandfresh, of thecommonareas not extend to does itional Russian fare. crowded withtourgroupssuppingontrad- ThegranddiningroomisoftenHouse. tion insidethekremlin, nearMetropolitan’s the refectory isalsoitsatmosphericloca- setting. setting. for traditionalRussian fare inaromantic from thelocals.Comehere ifyou’re looking Slavyansky gets manyarecommendation 100m eastof thekremlin, thesemiswanky h Refectory Chamber Refectory Bus 6 runs between the train station and thetrain station Bus 6runsbetween Vault House Slavyansky 9am-5pm, laterinsummer)

( % ( % 62 228; Sovetskaya pl8) 62 228;Sovetskaya 31 244;s/dwithshared bathroom ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 62 871;mealsR200-400; Theattractionof About Right Right