The Basics of Brining How salt, sugar, and water can improve texture and flavor in lean meats, poultry, and seafood. BY JULIA COLLIN Why are some roast turkeys dry as sawdust while others boast meat that’s firm, juicy, of weight—call it, for lack of a better phrase, water retention—that stays with it through and well seasoned? The answer is brining. Soaking a turkey in a brine—a solution of salt the cooking process. This weight gain translates into moist meat; the salt and sugar in (and often sugar) and a liquid (usually water)—provides it with a plump cushion of sea- the brine translate into seasoned, flavorful meat. And this applies to all likely candidates soned moisture that will sustain it throughout cooking. The turkey will actually gain a bit for brining (see below). For a complete understanding of the process, read on.

HOW IT WORKS THE BEST CANDIDATES FOR BRINING Brining works in accordance with two principles, called diffusion and osmosis, that like things to be kept in Lean and often mildly flavored meats with a tendency equilibrium. When brining a turkey, there is a greater concentration of salt and sugar outside of the turkey to overcook—such as chicken, turkey, and pork—are (in the brine) than inside the turkey (in the cells that make up its flesh). The law of diffusion states that perfect candidates for brining, which leaves them plump the salt and sugar will naturally flow from the area of greater concentration (the brine) to lesser concen- and seasoned. Many types of seafood also take well to tration (the cells). There is also a greater concentration of water, so to speak, outside of the turkey than brining, especially when they are subjected to cooking inside. Here, too, the water will naturally flow from the area of greater concentration (the brine) to lesser methods that cause extreme moisture loss. For instance, concentration (the cells). When water moves in this fashion, the process is called osmosis. Once inside we don’t brine salmon fillets before grilling (the fish has the cells, the salt and, to a lesser extent, the sugar cause the cell proteins to unravel, or denature. As the plenty of fat and flavor and won’t dry out if pulled from individual proteins unravel, they become more likely to interact with one another. This interaction results the grill when still translucent in the center). However, in the formation of a sticky matrix that captures and holds moisture. Once exposed to heat, the matrix when grill-roasting a whole side of salmon, brining allows gels and forms a barrier that keeps much of the water from leaking out as the meat cooks. Thus you have a the fish to spend considerable time on the grill, picking turkey that is both better seasoned and much more moist than when you started. up smoke flavor without becoming dry. Shrimp, which is extremely lean and often mushy, is another good choice BRINE SOLUTION for brining (the brine actually firms the shrimp). water molecule sodium ion

MUSCLE CELL cell wall protein CORNISH HEN: whole, PORK: loin, tenderloin, butterflied chops, fresh ham BEGINNING OF BRINING AFTER BRINING AFTER COOKING CHICKEN: whole, parts, butterflied

TWO TYPES OF SALT FOR BRINING Both table salt and kosher salt can be used to make a brine. We prefer kosher salt because it has a cleaner flavor than table salt (which usually contains iodine and anti-caking agents that can affect flavor) and because it has an airier structure, which gives it a higher propensity to dissolve. Essentially, kosher salt is less salty than table salt. A cup of table salt weighs about 10 ounces, while a cup of kosher salt (depending on SEAFOOD: whole side of the precise crystalline structure of the brand purchased) weighs between 5 and 8 ounces. To simplify the salmon (when grill-roasting or smoking), shrimp math, we use Diamond Crystal TURKEY: whole, breast, Kosher Salt, which weighs parts, butterflied 5 ounces per cup, making it In contrast, beef and lamb do not benefit from brining. exactly half as strong as table Unlike poultry and pork, these meats are generally eaten salt. If you buy another brand rare or medium-rare and are therefore cooked to a rela- of kosher salt, you may need tively low internal temperature. As a consequence, they to adjust the amount called for do not lose as much of their natural moisture as poultry in the chart on page 17. For or pork, which are generally cooked to higher internal instance, Morton Kosher Salt temperatures. Beef and lamb also contain more fat, weighs 7.7 ounces per cup. Use which makes them more flavorful and helps to keep them 1 1 /2 cups of this kosher salt moist. For many of the same reasons, gamier, fattier birds, (not 2 cups) to replace 1 cup such as duck and squab, don’t benefit from brining. of table salt. KOSHER SALT TABLE SALT Illustration: John Burgoyne

COOK ’ S ILLUSTRATED

16 UNIVERSAL FORMULA FOR BRINING HOW TO BRINE S i n c e w e b r i n e d o u r f i r s t t u r k e y s e v e r a l y e a r s a g o , w e h a v e b e e n c a p t i v a t e d b y t h e b e n e f i t s o f b r i n i n g . B r i n e s a r e f e a t u r e d i n m a n y o f o u r r e c i p e s , w h i c h , g i v e n t h e p a r t i c u l a r t i m e c o n s t r a i n t s a n d t h e n a t u r e o f t h e f o o d b e i n g b r i n e d , r e c o m m e n d a r a t h e r w i d e v a r i e t y o f f o r m u l a s . We d e c i d e d t o g e t s c i e n t i f i c a n d c o m e u p w i t h a s i n g l e , a l l - p u r p o s e f o r m u l a . To s t a r t , w e r e v i e w e d a l l o f o u r b r i n i n g r e c i p e s a n d c a l c u l a t e d a n a v e r a g e r a t i o o f w a t e r t o s a l t t o s u g a r a s w e l l a s a n a v e r a g e b r i n i n g t i m e p e r p o u n d o f m e a t . U s i n g t h i s n e w s t a n d a r d f o r m u l a , w e c o o k e d o u r w a y t h r o u g h v a r i o u s c u t s o f p o u l t ry a n d p o r k a n d s e v e r a l t y p e s o f s e a f o o d , a n d i t w o r k e d i n a l l b u t a f e w s i t u a t i o n s . H i g h r o a s t i n g ( r o a s t i n g a t 4 5 0 t o 5 0 0 d e g r e e s ) , b r o i l i n g , a n d h i g h - h e a t g r i l l i n g a l l r e q u i r e a b r i n e w i t h l e s s s u g a r t o e n s u r e t h e s k i n o r e x t e r i o r w o n ’ t b u r n . ( A f t e r b r i n i n g a t u r k e y o r f r e s h h a m , r i n s e w e l l t o r e m o v e a n y r e m a i n i n g s u g a r. ) To k e e p t h e f l a v o r s o f t h e h i g h - h e a t b r i n e 1. M i x c o l d w a t e r, s a l t , a n d s u g a r i n 2. I m m e r s e f o o d i n b r i n e , s e a l , a n d b a l a n c e d , w e a l s o r e d u c e d t h e a m o u n t o f s a l t . b r i n i n g v e s s e l a n d s t i r t o d i s s o l v e s a l t refrigerate. (If not refrigerating, add ice and sugar. packs before covering.)

TYPE OF BRINE C OLD WATER SALT * SUGAR AMOUNT OF BRINE TIME **

Basic 1 quart 1/2 c u p D i a m o n d C ry s t a l k o s h e r 1/2 c u p 1 q u a r t p e r p o u n d o f f o o d 1 h o u r p e r p o u n d , b u t • 1/4 c u p + 2 t a b l e s p o o n s n o t t o e x c e e d 2 g a l l o n s b r i n e n o t l e s s t h a n 3 0 m i n u t e s o r • M o r t o n k o s h e r m o r e t h a n 8 h o u r s 1/4 cup table • High-Heat Roasting, 1 quart 1/4 cup Diamond Crystal kosher 2 t a b l e s p o o n s 1 quart per pound of food, 1 hour per pound, but Broiling, or • 3 t a b l e s p o o n s M o r t o n k o s h e r n o t t o e x c e e d 2 g a l l o n s b r i n e n o t l e s s t h a n 3 0 m i n u t e s o r High-Heat Grilling • 2 tablespoons table m o r e t h a n 8 h o u r s • * s e e p a g e 16 i f u s i n g k o s h e r s a l t * * w h e n b r i n i n g m u l t i p l e i t e m s , t i m e b a s e d o n w e i g h t o f s i n g l e i t e m ( f o r e x a m p l e , u s e w e i g h t o f 1 o f 4 p o r k c h o p s b e i n g b r i n e d )

TOOLS OF THE TRADE HANGING IT OUT TO DRY From plastic zipper-lock bags that fit on the shelf of the refrigerator to a self-contained cooler chilled with ice B r i n i n g d o e s h a v e o n e n e g a t i v e e f f e c t o n c h i c k e n p a c k s an d st o r e d in a co o l ga r a g e or ce l l a r, br i n i n g ve s s e l s co m e in al l sh a p e s an d si z e s . Wh e n br i n i n g in co o l e r s a n d t u r k e y: A d d i n g m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n a s w e l l a s o r l a r g e c o n t a i n e r s , i t m a y b e n e c e s s a ry t o w e i g h t h e f o o d d o w n w i t h a w i d e , h e a v y o b j e c t s u c h a s a d i n n e r t h e f l e s h c a n p r e v e n t t h e s k i n f r o m c r i s p i n g w h e n p l a t e o r s o u p b o w l . T h i s h e l p s k e e p t h e f o o d f u l l y i m m e r s e d i n t h e b r i n e . c o o k e d . We f o u n d t h a t a i r - d ry i n g , a t e c h n i q u e u s e d i n m a n y C h i n e s e r e c i p e s f o r r o a s t d u c k , s o l v e s t h i s problem. Letting brined chicken and turkey dry uncovered in the refrigerator allows surface mois - t u r e t o e v a p o r a t e , m a k i n g t h e s k i n v i s i b l y m o r e d ry and taut and therefore promoting crispness when c o o k e d . A l t h o u g h t h i s s t e p i s o p t i o n a l , i f c r i s p s k i n i s a g o a l , i t ’ s w o r t h t h e e x t r a t i m e . Fo r b e s t r e s u l t s , a i r - d ry w h o l e b r i n e d b i r d s o v e r n i g h t . B r i n e d c h i c k e n p a r t s c a n b e a i r - d r i e d f o r s e v e r a l h o u r s .

P LA ST I C Z I P P E R - L O CK B AG S ( 1 - o r 2 - g a l l o n ) CO O L E R / WA S H T U B USE FOR: Chicken parts, pork tenderloin and chops, USE FOR: Turkey, pork loin, fresh ham, whole side of shrimp salmon

ICE PACKS Tr a n s f e r th e br i n e d bi r d to a he a v y - d u t y co o l i n g ra c k C A M B RO * O R T U P P E R WA R E CO N TA I N E R S T h e r e f r i g e r a t o r k e e p s a b r i n e a t t h e i d e a l t e m p e r a - s e t o v e r a r i m m e d b a k i n g s h e e t , p a t t h e b i r d d ry USE FOR: Co r n i s h he n (w h o l e or bu t t e r f l i e d ) , ch i c k e n t u r e o f 4 0 d e g r e e s . I c e p a c k s k e e p t h e t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h p a p e r t o w e l s , a n d r e f r i g e r a t e . T h e r a c k l i f t s t h e (whole or butterflied) d o w n w h e n r e f r i g e r a t o r s p a c e i s a t a p r e m i u m o r t h e b i r d o f f t h e b a k i n g s h e e t , a l l o w i n g a i r t o c i r c u l a t e * s e e R e s o u r c e s o n p a g e 3 2 f o r i n f o r m a t i o n brining vessel is especially large. f r e e l y u n d e r t h e b i r d .

NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2 0 0 1

17