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&pyrenees And yet, amongsprawling broadacre farms andthesinuous producing stellar shiraz off some of the world’s oldest vines. at firstglance,theGrampians andPyrenees in ’s silhouette of Mount Langi Ghiran, five-star wineries are Central West seem unlikely hubs for world-class wine. Stark, dryanddotted with sheep: COUNTRY WESTERN WORDS //SARAH LEWIS

& kind, they defymodern-day classification. others remain amystery –the last of their noted inBest’s faded oldjournal. The 1866. Ofthese, 32 are known, their lineage about 40varieties by founder Henry Bestin as breathing. rhythmic, reflexive act that’s as instinctive custodian ofBest’s Great Western, it’s a the fifth-generation vigneron and current fingers and popping itintohis mouth. For snatching upagrape withhis ink-dark Ben Thomson stoopsevery few yards, As he ambles among the vines, We’re inthe Nursery Block,planted to Earth, atalmost 150years ofage. find some ofthe oldest shiraz vines on cellar, hand-dug inthe 1860s.Outside, you’ll in 1869.Beneath this liesthe rough-hewn is housed in an oldred gum stable, built large across the winery. The cellar door and think about the history ofitall.” saying, “Sometimes you dohave tostop pauses amidthe gnarled, low-slung vines, as we work our way along the rows, Ben Block DryRed orConcongella Blanc. Now, as “mongrel blends”, sold as The Nursery The fruitgoesintowhat Bendescribes For avisitor toBest’s, that history is writ

I was amazed,” says Ben. weeks there were worms everywhere. down itwas rock-hard, but withintwo the firsttime. “When we put the straw they’ve watered and laid straw mulch for rainfall,” says Ben. ball thing, as you have topreempt any to water now, but it’s abitofcrystal may bedrawing toaclose. “We’re having unyielding soil, he admits that those days grown. But as Benkicks atthe parched, the vineyard has traditionally beendry On the Thomson Family block, this year Thanks, inpart, tothose deep-set roots, PICTURED: view ofMount Langi Ghiran, said to resemble apregnant lady. Montara offers astriking ➺

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RIGHT: BELOW: is inanoldred gum stable, built in1869. and the lab-like sanitation ofthe hard-hat environment ofthe winery sparkling shiraz. Above, the high-vis, wine, including the original 1880s for the maturation ofsparkling drives, built by Hans Irvine inthe ground oflabyrinthine lies3.3-km winemaking techniques.Below and legacy withcontemporary balancing the obligations ofhistory Carnaby has beencharged with Western, senior winemaker Adam Just down the road atSeppelt Great OLD MEETS NEW really express where they’re from.” “My aimis tocreate wines that history initsvines,” says Justin. places inthe world that has such Burgundy. “Best’s is one ofthe few 2011 following athree-year stint in Justin Purser, who joined Best’s in place that appealed towinemaker extraordinary vine age and sense of Western . Itwas this produce the iconic Old Vine Great oldest pinot meunier vines Family Shiraz. Nearby, the world’s exceptional years, the Thomson go intothe Bin0Shiraz and, in grampians & Grapes from that prized block Mount Langi Ghiran’s HillCrest block. The Best’s Great Western cellar door

used inblending,” says Adam. pressed for atextural element tobe a day later –it’s beenwhole-bunch residual sugar. The second was picked and willbestoppedwhile ithas abitof cold, has asmall amount offluffy lees, our visit. “One example was fermented riesling, which is stillfermenting on components. Acase inpointis the 2015 larger vats tocreate diverse blending berries, and puncheons, barriques and uses amixofwhole bunch and whole Best’s brother, Joseph, in1865.Adam Grampians, firstplanted by Henry sites inHenty, Heathcote and the a Grand Cru Chablis.) Chardonnay was mistaken for winemakers, the Drumborg Vineyard blind-tasting among the region’s top he says. (And it’s paying off:ata recent smaller, premium winemaking now,” mechanical process. It’s all about premium lines, and we bypass any openfermenters10-tonne for our brought toSeppelt. “We’ve installed European aesthetic, which he has winemaking style is imbued witha the mossy maze below. blending room are instarkcontrast to Seppelt sources fruitfrom established Thanks tostintsinBurgundy, Adam’s

into question:what should Australian shiraz be?” courageous wine tomake,” says Damien. “Itbrought bunches and reined inthe alcohol. “Itwas apretty when winemaker Dan Buckle introduced whole says Ben.But the greatest shift can beseen in2010, aromas, you need toleave the fruitonthe vine,” In order togetthe fulldevelopment offlavours and early 2000s.“We see the importance oflate maturity. vintages. There’s aclear evolution ofstyle inthe usage inthe ’80stoKate Petering’s most recent of the winemakers, from Trevor Mast’s limitedoak 1984 to2012,we bear witness tothe changing styles each year, but the hotspots remain the same.” ‘peppy-centre’,” says Ben.“Itvaries inintensity gives shiraz itspeppery qualities. “We call itthe produce the most rotundone, the compound that allowed the Langi team tozero inonthe areas that north upthe rise tothe HillCrest section.” end ofthe block,toblue and black fruitsas you head pepper and ripe, crunchy red fruitsatthe southern between rows and panels, from black and white us more complexity,” says Damien. “We getvariations throughout the block.“The east-west plantings give Sheehan explains that the varietal characters change shiraz fruitI’ve eaten,” says Ben. 1963-plantings ofOld Blockshiraz. “It’s the best for is yet tocome.” and being confident that everything you’re looking the team from Yering Station.“It’s amatter oftasting just before the harvest,” says Ben,who recently joined first vintage here underway. “The pepper comes in young-gun winemaker BenHaines is keen togethis At another Grampians icon, Mount Langi Ghiran, REGIONAL CHARACTERS started,” he says. a few days after our April visit. “I’mitching toget out atthe HillCrest block, which willbeharvested long. Already he’s turning tothe window, gazing and context.” But Ben’s attentioncan’t beheld for Ben. “All ofthat history gives usmore confidence This is precision viticulture. Soil mapping has “It was really important for ittogothere,” says Over avertical tasting of12Langi shiraz from Out among the vines, viticulturalist Damien He’s paying particular attentiontothe

Photography // Marcus Thomson head sommelier atthe Fat Duck,and BenHaines ofMount Langi Ghiran. below lies3.3kmofmaturation drives built inthe 1880s;Isa Bal, THIS PAGE: the world is you can always geta “What’s so great about this part of Tarrawarra, Seppelt and Taltarni. Chateau Yarrinya (now DeBortoli), Grampians, most notably atMillers the , Padthaway and the draws on30years’ experience in coffee and a light lunch inthe cafe. in the garden, orrecharge with enjoy apicnicand abottle ofwine pregnant lady. Here, guests can silhouette, said toresemble a view ofthe mountain’s curvaceous brick cellar dooroffers astriking Built inthe late 1970s, the mud- Ghiran liesMontara, near Ararat. On the other sideofMount Langi WONDERSSMALL Winemaker Leigh Clarnette The environment high-vis ofSeppelt Great Western winery;

slopes of the Grampians in1969, From vines planted onthe eastern playground and barbecue facilities. family-friendly cellar doorwitha brings you toHalls Gap Estate, a primarily planted to rare shiraz clones. & Ludvigsen, a14-hectare vineyard Leigh also lends his nous toClarnette we’re aiming highwithFrench oak.” back,” says Leigh. “Hang the cost; American oak, but I’ve pulled right here withabigbang using plenty of refined the Montara style. “We started been agreat red year.” barrel now are looking very smart. It’s “The shiraz and pinot that are inthe good red offthe vine,” says Leigh. Another 35minutes’ drive west Over the past nine years, Leigh has

BEN HAINES //BEN HAINES MOUNTLANGIGHIRAN YET TO COME.” LOOKING FOR IS EVERYTHING YOU’RE CONFIDENT THAT TASTING ANDBEING “IT’S AMATTER OF and Taiyo, and brother, Jo. Series, named for his three children, Sahsah, Saieh shiraz and cabernet, plus the members-only Family climate here and itvaries so much.” better reds than anywhere else. We have abeautiful Summerfield Wines. “Ithink it consistently produces that’s thanks tothe fruit,” says Mark Summerfield of a small area, ithas alotoffive-star wineries, and an exciting wine destination initsown right. To the east ofthe Grampians liesthe Pyrenees region, EAST TO THEPYRENEES super exciting,” says Aaron. a lotoftrial and error, but the 2015vintage is looking a few times aday, and matured inoak. all made fermenters, inopen-tank hand-plunged small winery. family-run Summerfield’s wines are Duncan Buchanan are free toexplore. “There’s been cognisant ofwhat has come before you.” cases there’s 150years ofhistory, so you have tobe brands like Best’s, Langi and Seppelt, insome “My idea here is totrynew things. With established believer inthe Grampians,” says Aaron Drummond. butalsoproducedfruit, good because I’m a big cabernet under the Fallen Giants label. the estateproduces cool-climate shiraz, riesling and During vintage, it’s all hands ondeckatthis At his Moonambel winery, Mark craftstop-rated “The Pyrenees is largely undiscovered, but for such With Estate, Aaron and winemaker “We bought the property because ithas always

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Summerfield Wines, in Moonambel, is afamily affair. by French distillers Chateau Remy in1963; THIS PAGE: a cheese plate craftedby David’s with the Moonambel cabernet.” shiraz, and beeformature cheese flavours. Ilove local lamb withthe says David. “You need salty, savoury Shiraz, offvines planted in 1977. Shiraz; and the 98-point2012Eagle the elegant 2010Southwest Rocks with cherry fruitand black olive; sample the 2012Moonambel, ripe esteemed shiraz. Ofthe latter, we Hut Viognier Roussanne, and his theme,” says David, ofthe Forest vine, 20ofwhich are shiraz. David Jones has 30acres under Dalwhinnie, where winemaker to another five-star winery, and smoked meats attheir deli. up onlocal olives, oils, capers, jams cellar-worthy wines, and then stock chairs, visitors can sample Mark’s Formica tables and mismatched cellar doorand deli,filledwith and Sahsah shirazes. At the relaxed 97-point ratings for his 2012Reserve is hard work.” in 28days,” says Mark. “This winery “This year we brought in130tonnes grampians &pyrenees We put that theory tothe testover “These are wines for the table,” “There’s abitofHermitage A 10-minutedrive brings you That hard work is paying off, with Blue Pyrenees, near Avoca, established

reds, craftedby Andrew Koerner. for itssparkling wines and savoury and Blue Pyrenees is bestknown those vines have been graftedover, base wine for brandy. These days, the winery originally produced distillers Chateau Remy in 1963, Avoca. Established by French brings you toBlue Pyrenees, near the woods. Another 40-oddminutes distances are vast inthis neck of You soon come torealise that FRENCH ACCENT terrine (see page 59for her recipe). quince paste and Jenny’s chicken caperberries and olives, homemade triple cream and blue, plus local might feature wedges ofcheddar, cellar door, the regional platter wife, Jenny. Available daily atthe

struggle is goodfor the vines. It’s anancient piece “The soils are very lean, but abitof that stress and the weather patterns vary significantly,” she says. many microclimates throughout the Pyrenees, and arid land beyond their dam-fed vineyard. “There are vantage ofthe ‘pregnant lady’, Andrea gestures atthe do abitofleesstirring in oldoak tobuild texture.” very different style –it’s very dryand Allenlikes to dry-grow riesling. What we’re producing here is a “We learnt during our time inthe Clare that you can 2015 Wine Companion. riesling, which garnered ratings of94and upinthe wild-ferment wines include shiraz, grenache and sun tocoax the reds through malo. His low-tech, our visit he’s about tomove his barrels out intothe built cellar doordoubles as Allen’s winery, and on viticulturalist for Seppelt). The low-key, sustainably team Allenand Andrea Hart (Andrea’s day jobis a small, five-star operationfrom husband-and-wife You’ll need tobookahead for atasting atDogRock, ECO-MINDED APPROACH Championship last year. Sparkling atthe Champagne &Sparkling Wine World Midnight Cuvee, which was named BestAustralian it keep beading afteranhour,” says Andrew ofthe like characters and afine, persistent bead. “I’ve seen spend three years onleestodevelop toasty, brioche- Made according tomethode traditionelle, the wines are beautiful for harvesting whites,” says Andrew. of land that makes small amounts ofquality wine.” Looking out over the Pyrenees, and yet another “Riesling’s such alovely variety,” says Andrea. night tomaintain acidity. “Those cool nights to destemming tocrushing,” he says. own wines. It’s just20minutesfrom picking growing your own grapes and blending your “It was set upinthe European tradition of legacy from the French is the original winery. the French chose it,” says Andrew. Another soil. Itdivigorates the vines, and that’s why WHITES.” WHITES.” HARVESTING BEAUTIFUL FOR NIGHTS ANDREW KOERNER // BLUE PYRENEES “THOSE The estate’s sparkling grapes are picked at “The Pyrenees is what we’d call ‘mean’ COOL COOL ARE ARE

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of craftbeers.theavocahotel.com.au to the region, and there’s acommendable line-up puree. The all-local wine list reads like alove letter such as slow-cooked wallaby shanks with pumpkin cheese, before moving ontosubstantial mains, tasting platter ofsalumi, smoked trout, olives and parochial Avoca offwitha Hotel.regional Kick In the Pyrenees, pay avisit tothe proudly THE AVOCA HOTEL WHERE TO EAT &STAY grampians &pyrenees grapevines. timber deckoverlooking gum trees and bath, openfireplace, library and expansive abode features three bedrooms, aclawfoot as aweekender inthe 1970s, this cosy at Eagles Nest. Built by the Jones family quintessential Australian bush experience At Dalwhinnie inMoonambel, enjoy the EAGLES NEST royalmail.com.au à la carte breakfast is atreat, too. king beds and rainshowers. The and the rugged Grampians, plus balconies withviews ofbushland away. Deluxe rooms boast private for the nightis justashort stroll dinner, you’ll beglad your bed After anindulgent degustation Australia’s preeminent collection. cellar tour, anexclusive peekinside and Bordeaux should signupfor the nation’s best,and fans ofBurgundy garden. The wine list is one ofthe meats and greens from the kitchen inventive dishes that showcase local out house-made charcuterie and Wickens is now atthe helm, dishing contemporary lodgings. Chef Robin Hotel teams city-smart dining with of the Grampians, the Royal Mail of Dunkeld, atthe southern tip In the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town ROYAL MAILHOTEL dessert. and awarming lemon pudding for straight from the bountiful gardens, local lamb with vegetables pulled seasonal menu mightinclude roast in your private dining room. The dinner, served onvintage crockery Sarah Beaumont’s home-cooked highlights ofastay here is owner breakfast provisions. One ofthe and games, and afullkitchen with expansive lounge room withbooks refined retreat. It features alogfire, Beggs Apartment (left)is the most and cottages, the spacious Mrs faithfully restored apartments just outside Beaufort. Ofthe three is agraceful 1850s-built mansion, gardens, Eurambeen Homestead Set inEdna Walling-designed EURAMBEEN eurambeen.com.au dalwhinnie.com.au jamsheed.com.au/ 2013 ($54)likewise the Grampians. Pyrenees; Jamsheed GardenGullySyrah ($54) shinesagorgeouslightonthe producer. JamsheedPyrenSyrah 2013 than Jamsheed.Inshort,it’s asuperb wine regions–viasheerquality more both theGrampiansandPyrenees few labelshavemanagedtopromote wide rangeofVictorianregions,but thestory.com.au and theGrampians,thanweevercould. 2013 ($28)saysmoreaboutthislabel, pressed TheStory GrampiansShiraz label; indeedthebeautifulwhole-bunch The Grampiansisakey focusofthe where stylemeetssubstancehead-on. they aregrownin.Thesewines of alltheyarechampionstheregions classy andquality-obsessed,butmost THE STORY Rory Lane’s winesare 2011 ($40).mitchellharris.com.au 2013 ($25)andtheelectrifyingfizzSabre Mitchell HarrisSauvignonBlancFume via theMitchellHarrisShiraz2013($35), Obvious evidenceintheglasscomes but withqualitywinestobackitup. masterstroke. Noiseandbuzz,certainly, regional centreofBallarathasprovena of awinebar/storeinthenearby the areainrecenttimes–opening become abigmoverandshaker in MITCHELL HARRISMitchellHarrishas mountavoca.com 2013 ($22)hasplentygoingforit,too. $11); theMountAvoca SauvignonBlanc the bargainMoatesLane Shiraz2012 current redsareinfineform(including thoroughly gorgeouswine, butallthe Avoca Malakoff Shiraz2012($50)isa also afantasticplacetostay).TheMount years. Thisisnowaregionalstar(it’s taken asteepswerveupwardsinrecent the Pyreneesregionbutqualityhas MOUNT AVOCA It’s notanewnameto worth stoppinginfor. taltarni.com.au Cabernet Sauvignon2012($40)areboth Petit Verdot 2013 ($25)andTaltarni the heftoffruitremainsintact.Taltarni and whilethestylehasbeenmodernised on thebackoftannic,ageworthyreds, Pyrenees onthemap. Itmadeitsname TALTARNI Taltarni helpedputthe by CampbellMattinson ALSO WORTH ALOOK JAMSHEED It sourcesgrapesfroma