FIFI FROLICS/12 FACCHINI RETURNS AS FIN.PART CO-CEO/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • June 13, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 120 $2.00 Beauty Cartier’s Le Baiser du Dragon. See page 10. Shining Star NEW YORK — With the launch of her new album on Tuesday, and her single, “So Gone,” at the top of the charts, Monica’s back in the spotlight — all grown up. Whether she’s glamorous in a gold-beaded dress and fur coat, or going much more casual, it’s Monica’s time to shine in the latest holiday looks. Here, the singer wears Rebecca Taylor’s modacrylic and polyester jacket, silk chiffon camisole and cotton and spandex corduroy pants. Shoes by Jimmy Choo; ring by David Yurman. For more on Monica’s return, see pages 22 and 23.

Chasing Anne Klein: ANTONIA SARDONE $163M Kellwood Bid, But Others in the Race

By Eric Wilson and Kristin Larson NEW YORK — Anne Klein’s clock is ticking. Kellwood Co. stepped forward on Thursday as the stalking horse in the race to acquire the label’s parent company, Kasper ASL, with an aggregate bid of $163.6 million, following a report in WWD on Thursday that Jones Apparel Group is likely to raise the stakes with a more aggressive offer for Kasper. Kellwood and Kasper announced in separate releases that Kellwood See Kellwood, Page 7 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; HAIR BY LEONDRA CREW AT D.D. PAIGE’S AGENCY; MAKEUP BY ROXANNA FLOYD AT ILLUSIONS MANAGEMENT; STYLED BY ILLUSIONS MANAGEMENT; PHOTO AT MAKEUP MITRA; AGENCY; ROBERT BY ROXANNA BY HAIR D.D. FLOYD LEONDRA BY CREW PAIGE’S AT 2 Facchini Returns as Co-CEO at Fin.Part WWDFRIDAY By Luisa Zargani production, Facchini will be but that he never really exited Beauty more involved in the overall the company. MILAN — It was a short-lived managerial side of the company Facchini founded Fin.part in GENERAL break for former Fin.part chair- and will handle the relationship 1996 and embarked on an acqui- Kellwood Co. stepped forward on Thursday as the stalking horse in the man Gianluigi Facchini. with Italy’s Chamber of Fashion. sitions spree that ultimately took race to acquire Kasper ASL, with an aggregate bid of $163.6 million. Although Facchini stepped Fin.part also has set up a on brands including Cerruti, 1 down as chairman last month, the special executive committee, Frette, Maska and footwear firm A report from the 31st Annual FiFi Awards, where winner Chanel showed

WWD, FRIDAY, JUNEWWD, FRIDAY, 13, 2003 company’s board turned around which counts Livolsi and Andrea Pfister. 12 that the old guard is not ready to make way for brash upstarts just yet. and named him co-chief execu- Facchini as members, to over- At the same time, however, Cartier is aiming to overhaul its fragrance business with the fall introduction tive officer, along with Silvano see small operations valued at Fin.part amassed a large debt of its newest women’s scent, Le Baiser du Dragon. Storer, who previously was sole less than $25 million. The regu- load, which, at the end of the first 10 ceo. Facchini continues to own a lar board will decide on any quarter, stood at $467.2 million, Although Gianluigi Facchini stepped down as Fin.part’s chairman last 20 percent stake in Fin.part. transactions larger than that. compared with the company’s 2 month, the company’s board has reinstated him as co-chief executive. Facchini stepped down as “Facchini is no longer free to full-year 2002 volume of $526.6 SUZY: Kate Winslet and Sam Mendes tie the knot; Reese gets the Jimmy chairman in April after auditors decide on his own — this much million. A source close to the KPMG rejected the group’s annu- has definitely changed — but his company said that KPMG is still 8 Choos; Rod’s life set to music; A royal birthday in Monte Carlo. al results, citing “financial ten- knowledge of the company is still currently “evaluating” the books Classified Advertisements...... 27 sion” in the group’s books. As re- valued,” said a source close to and is expecting a capital in- ported, Fin.part named Ubaldo Fin.part. Another source said crease of between $60 million To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Livolsi as its new chairman, but Facchini may have relinquished and $80 million. At the same [email protected], using the individual's name. Facchini remained a board mem- the post of chairman because his time, said the source, Fin.part is SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. ber. A Fin.part spokesman said “image” with the banks that lent still set on selling its Maska and All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. that, while Storer will oversee money to Fin.part was tarnished, Frette assets. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be Elder-Beerman Execs Talking Takeover expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 By David Moin shareholders, management’s one valuable asset is the compa- GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. offer would have to be higher. ny’s proprietary credit-card op- All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of NEW YORK — The management Shares of Elder-Beerman eration which could be sold off. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. of Elder-Beerman Stores Corp., closed up 9 cents, or 1.7 percent, at Bergren very much wants to For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. led by president and chief execu- $5.39 in Nasdaq trading Thursday. hang onto Elder-Beerman, espe- tive officer Byron “Bud” Bergren, EB Acquisition said it would cially since he has been pushing is negotiating exclusively to take keep the company’s headquarters the chain’s smaller, new concept over the company through a buy- in Dayton, maintain its employee stores, which could be the key to In Brief out, sources said Thursday. base and expand in various areas the company’s future. They use a Elder-Beerman disclosed on in the U.S. EB Acquisition is led single-story store format, de- May 16 that it had received an un- by Daniel S. Summers, an Ohio- signed specifically for smaller to l LIMITED, MAY CO. SUIT: A battle between Limited Brands and solicited offer from one party, but based real estate investor and de- mid-sized markets, including May Department Stores Co. over hiring a top executive has entered has never identified that party. veloper with experience develop- central customer service centers the courts. The Limited has filed suit against May Co., which is According to sources, the man- ing and managing commercial for faster checkouts, self-select seeking to block Limited’s efforts to recruit Mark Weikel, former agement group has through early and retail properties. cosmetics, a combined juniors’ chairman of May’s Houston-based Foley’s division. Weikel, as re- July to complete its negotiations Financial sources said that and young men’s shop called ported, has been offered a senior-level position at Victoria’s Secret, and due diligence and arrange fi- Elder-Beerman is under no obli- The Zone, and a bridal registry reporting to the chain’s chief executive, Grace Nichols. In the suit, nancing. Elder-Beerman’s board gation to disclose the party with kiosk. About a dozen such stores Limited reportedly contends that Foley’s is not a competitor to would then be required to enter- whom it is exclusively negotiat- are operating. Victoria’s Secret and therefore hiring Weikel does not constitute a tain other offers. ing until the end of the exclusiv- Market sources say regional violation of noncompete restrictions written into Weikel’s contract One offer has come in so far. ity period. Bergren was travel- chains need at least $1 billion in at Foley’s. May Co. is likely to seek a restraining order at least tem- After first expressing its interest ing Thursday and could not be sales for survival. Elder-Beer- porarily blocking Weikel’s job move, until the issue is resolved in on May 20, EB Acquisition Ltd. reached for comment. man’s net sales for 2002 were courts. A few days ago, Weikel resigned from Foley’s to join on June 4 offered to acquire all Elder-Beerman, a regional, $639.8 million compared with Victoria’s Secret. May has a reputation for being tough on execu- shares of common stock of Elder- moderate to better priced de- $643.1 million in 2001. Compar- tives who seek to jump ship to other retailers, but compensating Beerman, at $5.50 a share, a total partment store chain, has been able-store sales decreased 2.4 those who stay on well. It’s the first time that Limited and May Co. of about $62.7 million and a 3.8 struggling for years, which percent. The chain posted a net have been in a legal battle involving executive recruitment. May percent premium to its $5.30 could make it challenging for a loss of $14.2 million, including confirmed Thursday that Limited filed a suit, but had no details. It share price at the time. To satisfy buyout to be financed. However, special items. was reportedly filed in St. Louis, where May Co. is based. Officials at Limited, based in Columbus, Ohio, could not be reached. At Foley’s, Andrew T. Hall stepped in as chairman on Tuesday. Andrew P. Pickman continues as president and ceo of Foley’s has 67 stores in five states. Sales last year were about $2 billion.

Inditex Earnings Surge 22.8% TARGETING DIVIDENDS: Target Corp. raised its quarterly divi- dend to 7 cents a common share, a 1 cent, or 16.7 percent, rise NEW YORK — Inditex Group scored a 22.8 percent over the 6 cent payout made on Tuesday. Given the 910.3 million increase in first-quarter net income, a number basic shares outstanding as of May 3, the increase will cost Target that would have been higher if not for unfavorable $9.1 million, raising the total quarterly dividend payout to about currency swings. $63.7 million. The dividend is payable Sept. 10 to shareholders of The La Coruna, Spain-based operator of Zara record on Aug. 20. and six other fashion nameplates said net income for the three months ended April 30 shot up to $96.5 SAKS’ HOLIDAY TUNE: Saks Fifth Avenue wants to raise $1 million from $78.6 million in 2002, as earnings be- million during the holiday 2003 season to support the VH1 Save fore interest and taxes rose 7.3 percent to $146.2 mil- The Music Foundation, and is recruiting designers and vendors lion from $136.3 million. Dollar figures have been to the cause. They’re being asked to create exclusive products to converted from the euro at current exchange rates. be sold in “Gifts that Give Back” shops that will be in all 62 Saks Sales for the quarter moved up 15.2 percent to stores from mid-October through Christmas. Part of each sale $1.15 billion from $1 billion in the same quarter last will be donated to the foundation, a nonprofit group dedicated to year, reflecting both new stores and same-store sales restoring music programs in schools and raising awareness about growth. Comparable-store sales weren’t specified but the importance of music participation. “Musical education is es- were said to be in line with company projections. sential for children’s growth and development,” said Christina The company noted that, excluding currency store count to 1,634. The company also said it antici- Johnson, chairman and chief executive of Saks Fifth Avenue. fluctuation, sales would have risen 22.4 percent. pates it will open between 280 and 335 stores in The lower results are principally due to the depre- 2003, including between 85 and 95 Zara stores, 80 CHELSEA’S CROSSINGS: Chelsea Property Group Inc. on ciation of Latin American currencies in the last fis- percent of which would be outside of Spain. Thursday said it completed the acquisition of The Crossings cal year. The company operates about 185 stores in Gross margin in the quarter reached $587.3 mil- Factory Stores in Tannersville, Pa., from Outletter Associates for Latin and South America. lion, or 51 percent of sales, compared with 51.5 per- $111.3 million, including closing costs and the assumption of a $61 Recently, a spokesman for Inditex said that, cent last year. Inventories increased 27.4 percent to million, 5.85 percent mortgage due in 2013. An additional $5 mil- with 80 percent of its volume done in euros, the im- $518.9 million from $407.2 million lion will be payable upon completion of a 21,000-square-foot ex- pact of the dollar-euro exchange is limited for the To date, Inditex said second-quarter sales pansion, expected in mid-2004. The center boasts a 98 percent oc- firm. “Europe is the main center of activity of our growth is in line with its expectations. cupancy rate with tenants such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Gap, Coach, company, containing the majority of our stores, and Inditex said it is expected to release results Nautica, Timberland and Tommy Hilfiger. Last year, average ten- where we intend to keep concentrating the majori- for the first half ending July 31 on Sept. 18. ant sales were $385 a square foot. ty of our stores, and where we intend to keep con- By division, units opened at quarter end tallied centrating the majority of our openings in the fol- 550 for Zara, 314 for Pull & Bear, 259 for Massimo lowing years,” the spokesman said. Dutti, 212 for Bershka, 161 for Stradivarius, 70 for Editor’s note: Due to a technical problem, the WWD Stock Market The firm opened 76 stores during the period, Kiddy’s Class and 68 for Oysho. Index doesn’t appear in today’s edition. one-quarter under the Zara banner, bringing its total — Jennifer Weitzman ©2003 Elizabeth Arden, Inc. part reality . part illusion a eparfum de eau . all woman . 4 Fashion Scoops Theyskens Readies Rochas for U.S. STANDING TALL: The veil lifted from show in Paris, have turned up, By Robert Murphy Robert Graham’s sculpture “Torso” in improbably, in another fashionable Beverly Hills Wednesday night, place: a Comme des Garçons ad. PARIS — Olivier Theyskens may eliciting such adjectives as No, they don’t model any clothes, not know what to expect Tuesday “shocking, controversial and but rather lend some of their when he debarks at Barneys gorgeous,” from Fred Hayman to famous lyrics to the high-concept New York for his first official ap- “erotic and perfect,” from Kelly ads for Comme des Garçons Shirt, pearance at an American store. Lynch. “It couldn’t be more which are juxtaposed with insects But the 26-year-old Belgian WWD, FRIDAY, JUNEWWD, FRIDAY, 13, 2003 inspirational to every girl who walks and other creatures inhabiting hopes that meeting the buying by,” Lynch added. The 14-foot-tall close-up images of old Dutch public will finally help him sculpture, a powerful woman’s body Master paintings. Created by gauge how real women react to carved from solid aluminum blocks Studio, Ronnie Cooke Newhouse’s his debut collection for the and mounted on a bronze pedestal, agency in London, the ads break house of Rochas. soon in a range of magazines, “I’ve never done this type of including Vanity Fair, Nest, Purple thing before,” Theyskens con- and Vogue Hommes International. fessed over lunch. “I can’t imag- ine what people will think of the FACING ELLEN: Stephanie Seymour is clothes. But the idea was actual- the new face of Ellen Tracy. Seymour, ly mine. I told Julie [Gilhart, vice who had appeared in an Ellen Tracy president of fashion merchan- campaign with Cindy Crawford in fall dise at Barneys] that I’d like to 2001, will have the camera all to organize it to get another point of herself this time. Steven Klein shot view. I hope the event is very Seymour in New York, and the ads calm and very simple because I will break in consumer magazines in want to have the time to really September. Crawford has been the meet with the women, to talk to face of Ellen Tracy since spring them and to understand their 1999. A spokeswoman for the brand feeling for the clothes.” said, “It was time to make a change, After gaining a strong reputa- and it seemed logical.” tion for mysterious goth glamour Theyskens’ Robert Graham and wife, Anjelica with his own, now-discontinued fall look ROTHSCHILD RICHES NICKED: English Huston, in front of Graham’s label, Theyskens joined Rochas for Rochas. police are still hunting for five men late last year. The elegant, yet au- “Torso” on the Walk of Style. who broke into one of England’s dacious, couture-inspired dress- stands as the centerpiece of Rodeo finest stately homes this week, es he showed in his first collec- Drive’s Walk of Style at the corner of stealing a stash of French, 18th tion last March captivated critics I know we have a lot to achieve at Rodeo and Dayton Way. It marks the century gold boxes. Five masked and retailers, with Neiman Mar- “ intersection where the first annual thieves broke into Waddesdon Manor cus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nord- Rochas before we finally arrive. awards ceremony is set to honor at 2 a.m. Tuesday, snatching 140 strom, Jeffrey and Barneys all — Olivier” Theyskens Giorgio Armani on Sept. 9 and rings boxes from the estate that was built picking up the line, which had no in a new era for the Golden Triangle. by the Rothschild family, and is previous presence in the U.S. collection, to experiment with cessories and footwear collec- Some $18 million in enhancements, today managed by Lord Jacob But Theyskens knows that volumes, what’s the use? Cre- tions are in the pipeline for intro- including upgraded landscapes and Rothschild. A spokeswoman for runway and reality are separate atively, I have to let myself go. duction to the trade in October. pedestrian walkways, are slated to Waddesdon, which is located outside aspects in the fashion formula. “I “There’s a lot of meat and po- Although Theyskens insists he begin this fall. London in Buckinghamshire, was happy to get such a positive tatoes in fashion right now,” he wants to take his time to “get it declined to put a value on the boxes, reaction from the press,” said continued. “It doesn’t do anybody right,” there is talk that a fra- BEING BORING: The Pet Shop Boys, but sources said they were worth Theyskens. “But even if it hadn’t any harm. But that’s not what grance with the designer’s impri- front row at the last Dior Homme several million dollars. been so warmly received, it gets people excited. That’s what matur will be readied for some- wouldn’t have mattered. It could we’re trying to do. We want to time next year. have hurt personally, but it have a strong voice.” Meanwhile, Theyskens har- wouldn’t have mattered. I know Founded in the Thirties by bors personal projects. He has we have a lot to achieve at Marcel Rochas, a couturier not ruled out reintroducing his Rochas before we finally arrive.” known for his feminine silhou- signature line, for example. And Apparel Sales Grow Theyskens said he recognizes ettes and for inventing a bustier after designing costumes for a the road will be long, “but I’m in- called the guepiere, the house production this spring of Verdi’s terested in really going for it and discontinued its fashion opera- “I Due Foscari” in Brussels, he laying it on the line. I don’t want tion, concentrating on fragrance, said he’d like to pursue similar And Optimism Rises to do anything that leaves anyone when Rochas died in 1955. projects in the future. indifferent.” German cosmetics giant Wella “If I had an idea I wanted to WASHINGTON — Spurring opti- All retail sales in May in- To wit: Theyskens explained then purchased Rochas in the express, I’d put it into my own mism among economists that creased 0.1 percent for the month, that his choice to show strong sil- late Eighties and resurrected the line, and maybe show it as cou- consumers may be shaking off reflecting a 4.3 percent drop in houettes for fall, such as hunch- fashion as an image machine. But ture,” he said. “And the opera their shopping doldrums, the gasoline prices, which are still 4.7 back jackets and dramatic busti- Irish designer Peter O’Brien, on was a fantastic experience. It Commerce Department report- percent above year-ago levels. er dresses that envelope the body whom the house called, failed to was very liberating.” ed Thursday that retail sales in Compared with May 2002, like a cream puff, was meant to generate buzz. For now, Theyskens has plen- May at apparel and accessory sales at apparel and accessory be provocative and arresting. Now, boosted by Theyskens’ ty on his hands. “Rochas is a stores increased a seasonally stores last month increased 2.1 “A dress like a puff may be dif- strong debut, the house is brim- long-term project,” he explained. adjusted 1 percent. percent. Department store sales ficult,” Theyskens allowed. “It’s ming with projects. Theyskens “I’ve got a clear idea in my head The federal government also over the year were down 4.3 per- not for everybody. Yet, strangely, plans to remodel Rochas’ Paris how the development should revised its April apparel and ac- cent in May and general mer- the difficult silhouettes sold well. flagship this fall. The house proceed. Each new step is a cessory store retail sales num- chandise stores posted a year- And that’s what I was feeling. If hopes a second unit in Paris will brick. We’re laying a foundation bers, which now reflect only a 1.8 over-year gain of 3.6 percent. you can’t put all of yourself into a bow within the next year. And ac- for the future.” percent monthly decline instead Retail sales have been follow- of a 3.2 percent drop as first re- ing a roller-coaster pattern for ported. Department store and more than a year. Since the end of general merchandise store sales, the war in Iraq, retailers, econo- off in April by 1.2 percent and 0.7 mists and federal officials have percent, respectively, rebounded been wondering whether con- Mugler Fashion: The Beginning of the End in May with sales at both increas- sumers would shake off their un- ing 0.7 percent for the month. certainty and start buying again PARIS — The Thierry Mugler ternal positions. Houdoux said that in the six The May retail numbers were in earnest. fashion business is officially “When it comes to external months since the plan to shut “better than most anticipated,” The positive retail sales num- starting to wind down, with Bal- openings, they’re at Balmain,” Mugler Couture was announced, said Rosalind Wells, chief econo- bers indicate “the economy is be- main set to take over its factory said Houdoux, who added some it’s been business as usual, with mist with the National Retail ginning to recover,” said Rajeev and some stores. employees have already gone to employees working on the fall col- Federation. “If we had had more Dhawan, director of the Econom- During a marathon employee other fashion houses while ben- lection to be shipped as planned. seasonable weather, the numbers ic Forecasting Center at Georgia meeting Wednesday night, plans efiting from the Mugler termina- “Now, we’re starting to stop the probably would have looked State University. for a final shutdown were de- tion package. activity bit by bit,” she added. even better. I think…we’ll see a However, given the huge tailed and personnel gave the Clarins president and chief Another employee meeting is stronger second half.” markdowns in apparel prices, nod to a job-preservation pro- executive Christian Courtin con- set for June 20, when other job A combination of falling gas Dhawan noted retail profit mar- gram and termination packages. firmed negotiations are under possibilities will be discussed. prices, low interest rates and gins continue to lag and aren’t yet “Our objective is to find jobs way to have Balmain take over As reported, Clarins — owner newly passed tax cuts should being boosted significantly by in- for 100 percent of our employ- the Mugler Couture factory in of the Mugler trademark — will help strengthen consumer confi- creased volume. Dhawan forecast ees,” said Perrine Houdoux, head Angers, France and four out of shutter the money-losing fashion dence, Wells said. a “slow and steady recovery by of Mugler’s fashion business. the seven Mugler boutiques, as house to concentrate on Mugler “The big problem is still the the end of the year,” barring any For starters, the firm’s 212 reported. fragrances. employment sector,” she said. significant events like a resur- France-based workers will be There are currently 104 em- A Balmain spokeswoman said “We have to see that strengthen, gence of SARS or conflicts. The informed of internal job possi- ployees at Mugler’s Paris head- it plans to announce its new strat- but that’s the last thing we’ll see period of economic uncertainty, bilities at Groupe Clarins, quarters, 74 at its factory and 34 egy in several weeks.

THEYSKENS PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI AND FEUGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTOS THEYSKENS improve as a lagging indicator.” he said, “is by no means all over.” owner of Thierry Mugler, or ex- at its stores. — Jennifer Weil We want to thank the wonderful team at INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES for creating a rhapsody in blue in a bottle.

Thank you to the talented perfumers, Carlos Benaim and Christophe Laudamiel.

Thank you also to Richard Goldstein, Nicolas Mirzayantz and Xavier Renard.

POLO RALPH LAUREN BLUE could not have won the FiFi Award for Men’s Fragrance Star of the Year without your expertise, creativity and partnership.

Ralph Lauren Fragrances 6 DKNY’s New York Stories Wal-Mart Looks to Benefits of RFID NEW YORK — Donna Karan NEW YORK — Wal-Mart wants to stockkeeping unit information, gram with the Massachusetts as filmmaker? upgrade its merchandise track- including style, size and color. Institute of Technology and also Karan is bringing her ing systems through new technol- They also facilitate faster check- operates a small RFID lab in “New York Stories” to the ogy currently being tested, called outs. A sales clerk would just Rogers, Ark. big screen, producing a radio frequency identification, wave a wand over all the prod- Wal-Mart said RFID, aside short film for her DKNY and wants its 100 top vendors to ucts, rather than having to scan from being a faster, more effi- label directed by Steven comply within a few years. each product individually. cient way of tracking, counting Sebring. The film highlights “Our goal is that by 2005, we But for now, Wal-Mart’s focus and inspecting merchandise, WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, fashions from the fall 2002 want to be at the pallet level is to have pallets and cases could be particularly useful with DKNY collection. [with RFID] for our distribution rigged with the new technology food shipments that need to be “I’m a frustrated centers, with 100 top suppliers, by 2005-2006. Tagging individual refrigerated and distributed to producer and director,” said and by 2005-2006, we would like Karan in a telephone to be at the pallet and case level interview this week. “I’ve with our top suppliers,” a Wal- done it in print. I’ve Mart spokesman said Thursday. There is a lot of ‘gee whiz and conjured up these movies in The major issue for RFID is “ my head and wanted to do cost containment. Currently, pro- blue sky’ on this technology, but this for such a long time.” ducing the RFID chips is very ex- The 18-minute film, with pensive. But with Wal-Mart and the issue is we are not going to the tag line, “A Little Film other chains pushing for mass About a Big City,” features a production of these chips, the adopt this technology unless we day in the lives of three costs might start to creep down. women — an actress, writer The Voluntary Interindustry can save money on our products. and musician — played, Commerce Standards organiza- — Wal-Mart spokesman” respectively, by Angela tion, a forum for vendors and re- Lindvall, Sophie Dahl and The movie poster announcing “New York tailers known as VICS, also is Michele Hicks. The film also Stories.” working to develop the chip. items with the RFID chips stores as quickly as possible. has cameo appearances by RFID is considered the next would take several more years. In all likelihood, suppliers Sylvia Miles and Lauren Ezersky. The movie was shot in and around New York City generation of the bar code, and a “There is a lot of ‘gee whiz and would eat the costs of this new and features skyline shots as well as the Chelsea Hotel and Madison Square Park. more powerful and easier way to blue sky’ on this technology, but technology. Asked if that would The film is strictly a vehicle for the ad campaign and was created by capture information. RFID chips, the issue is we are not going to be so, Williams said, “We can’t Karan’s ad agency, Laird & Partners, here. With some interesting twists, the also known as smart tags, store adopt this technology unless we get into the definition of how movie shows how the three women get ready for a movie audition, book all kinds of information, which is can save money on our products,” that would unfold right now signing and musical tour. It will be presented to the press next Thursday transmitted via radio frequency. the spokesman said. He added with RFID.” night and can be viewed on DKNY’s Web site and at boutiques worldwide. Affixed to products, they store that Wal-Mart is part of a test pro- — David Moin The company has 48 licensed and company-owned stores. Karan said her fall DKNY collection especially inspired her to do a film. Each of the models in the film wears multiple outfits and accessories from the fall DKNY collection. “I never thought about my clothes as static. I always wanted people to Kawakubo and Watanabe to Design see them in their real form. These are real clothes. It really captures the diversification of the spring line. The Donna Karan woman can be a downtown rock ’n’ roll type, an intellectual or an actress. Hopefully, it’s Comme des Garçons Homme Line about the creative spirit and creating your own look,” she said. Patti Cohen, executive vice president of global marketing and PARIS — A iconoclast in the design the Comme des Garçons ments like its signature embroi- communications for DKI, declined to divulge the fall media budget, but fashion world, Rei Kawakubo is Homme Plus line, the most avant- dered laurel-wreath crest while said it was up 10 percent. According to CMR, DKNY spent $15.9 million often referred to as the “design- garde of her fashion offerings for adding her own details. The co- on media in the second half of 2002. er’s designer.” men that she shows on the runway branded line, which also in- The film was shot digitally, and photos were downloaded to be used for the She’s also proving to be a for- in Paris each season. Meanwhile, cludes a tennis shoe, will be company’s fall ad campaign. The ads will run in several magazines, beginning midable co-designer. WWD has Watanabe will continue to create available to all wholesale clients in August, including W, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Glamour, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and learned Kawakubo is teaming up his Junya Watanabe Man line, in- of Comme des Garçons Shirt. The New York Times Magazine. A 24-page outsert will be polybagged with the with her protégé, Junya Wata- troduced in 2001. Both present While ostensibly a men’s line, September Interview highlighting scenes from the movie, along with a copy of nabe, to design Comme des Gar- their next collections here June Joffe noted that small sizes have the movie on CD-ROM. The print images, which contain filmstrip borders, also çons Homme, the Japanese 28 during men’s fashion week. long been available, and many will be used as wild postings in New York and Los Angeles. firm’s principal and most com- But that’s not all. Kawakubo, women wear the shirts. — Lisa Lockwood mercial men’s collection, which who designs the Comme des Kawakubo’s 30-year-old fash- is sold in some 80 stores in Japan Garçons Shirt collection, also ion empire has a long history of and accounts for about a fifth of has a new joint venture with collaboration. She works with the house’s turnover. sportswear brand Fred Perry, Vivienne Westwood on a collec- Their first collaboration will owned by Japanese firm Hit tion that is sold exclusively in be for the spring 2004 season and Union. A portion of the line, Tokyo at 10 Corso Como Comme be shown in Japan next month. starting with spring 2004, will be des Garçons, a retail partner- Previously, the 18-year-old line cobranded Fred Perry/Comme ship between Kawakubo and was designed by Keiichi Tanaka. des Garçons Shirt. Milan retailer Carla Sozzani. Adrian Joffe, managing direc- Joffe said Kawakubo was in- For his part, Watanabe has tor of Comme des Garçons in vited to dig through the archives worked with Levi Strauss and Paris, said the Homme line is of Fred Perry, established in Lewis Leathers for his men’s presently only sold in Japan, but 1950 by the English tennis leg- line, and with Nike for women’s “there’s a possibility for exports.” end, and she plans to reinterpret and men’s footwear. Kawakubo will also continue to the collection, maintaining ele- — Miles Socha Shackelford Exits as ATMI President WASHINGTON — After just ATMI, it had already more than liances within the industry. On under one year on the job, Parks halved its membership from a Wednesday, ATMI was part of a D. Shackelford has resigned as peak of about 150 companies in coalition of yarn, fiber, fabric and president of the American Tex- 1991. Staff had also been cut by cotton associations to announce tile Manufacturers Institute to one-third, mirroring the indus- a group effort to lobby the Bush take another job to lobby for a try’s financial struggle, which administration to impose restric- U.S. sugar company. persists today. tions on low-cost Chinese textiles “I had planned to stay longer,” In his year on the job, and apparel imports they claim Shackelford said Thursday of his Shackelford cut the ATMI staff are unfair competition. brief tenure at the textile associ- by 50 percent to now employ Shackelford is no stranger to ation. “I was made an offer I nine people. He said ATMI is no the sugar industry, which is en- couldn’t refuse,” he said of his longer operating in the red, but gaged in a similar domestic pro- new employer, Florida Crystals he declined to give details of the ducer versus import struggle as Corp., one of the largest U.S. fiscal turnaround. ATMI now the U.S. textile industry. Before sugar producers and owned by has 70 members, including two joining the ATMI, as an inde- the Fanjul family. companies, National Textiles pendent lobbyist he had the Shackelford will continue to and R.L. Stowe Mills, which re- sugar industry as a client. Earlier work at ATMI through the sum- turned as members under in his career, Shackelford worked mer as the association searches Shackelford’s watch. at the USDA on sugar issues and for a replacement. In the last year, ATMI has at the House Subcommittee on Sophie Dahl, top, and Angela Lindvall, above, are featured in DKNY’s new By the time Shackelford took stepped up its lobbying efforts Cotton, Rice and Sugar. fall campaign, shot by Steven Sebring. the helm of a financially ailing and reached out to form al- — Joanna Ramey 7 Kellwood Takes Lead in Kasper Chase 2003 13, FRIDAY,WWD, JUNE

Continued from page one strong feeling from the bankrupt- had agreed to acquire Kasper cy court that Kasper, whose per- with a purchase price of $111 formance has improved dramati- million in cash, $40 million in cally over the course of two years, Kellwood common stock and the no longer belonged there as the assumption of prepaid royalties company was turning a profit. projected to be $12.6 million at “What happens from here re- closing, plus the assumption of mains to be seen,” said Marc certain other liabilities. Since Cooper, managing director of Kasper is operating under bank- Peter J. Solomon Co. “We had a ruptcy protection, the statements pretty broad field of bidders and effectively served as an opening there’s no reason one of them salvo to an auction, when other couldn’t step in with a higher parties, Jones included, could offer. Others also may enter the step forward with higher offers. process. The next step is for the While Kellwood might not bankruptcy court to approve emerge as the victor, its offer Kellwood as the stalking horse marks the beginning of the end and then for an auction date to for a long period of uncertainty at be established.” Kasper, as a resolution is expect- Hal J. Upbin, chairman, presi- ed to come within 45 to 90 days. dent and ceo of Kellwood, said The agreement, which has the the company’s interest in Kasper support of Kasper’s official credi- stems from the solid position of tors’ committee, is now subject to Kasper’s many labels in the bet- bankruptcy court approval and ter suit market and AK Anne an auction would be conducted Klein in better sportswear, an to determine the highest and area the company is looking to best offer, which could come delve into deeper as it extends from any number of interested its reach beyond its core portfo- parties — Kellwood, Jones, Liz lio of moderate brands. Should A spring ad from Anne Klein. Claiborne Inc., Lawrence Stroll Kellwood also conclude a deal and Silas Chou, or even Kasper’s for the CK better collection, ob- slightly upscale for Kellwood, complement to Kellwood’s port- next level of growth.” own management, led by John servers said, the combination of but not tremendously.” folio, a company whose biggest Reports over the past several Idol, chairman and chief execu- brands would give the company Cooper added, “People buy brand is Sag Harbor, estimated months that Idol has been con- tive of the company. significant leverage in tackling brand-oriented businesses ei- to do between $500 million to sidered for a number of top po- However, Kellwood’s agree- the department store channel. ther for the value proposition $600 million in volume. sitions, including the vacant ceo ment calls for a change of Kasper “Kasper is the number one they currently have or what they Kellwood’s plan calls for Kasper spot at Michael Kors, which was management. Idol, who said he brand in women’s suits at this can do with the brand in the fu- to be structured as a stand- recently acquired by Stroll and would resign if Kellwood’s bid point, so it’s an exciting opportu- ture. In this case, we had both — alone company under the Chou, and also opportunities at succeeds, would be replaced by nity to take a recognized brand a highly profitable suit business Kellwood women’s wear um- Tommy Hilfiger Inc., have con- Gregg I. Marks, currently presi- in the better arena,” Upbin said. at Kasper and a strong brand for brella, headed by Stephen L. tributed internally to an air of dent of Kasper, and Joseph B. “In our portfolio, we know better Anne Klein, including signifi- Ruzow, president. uncertainty at Kasper. Charles Parsons, currently chief financial is not our core strength, but we cant licensing revenue from Investors applauded the Nolan, the designer who helped officer, would be promoted to do feel we need to diversify to highly successful licensees like move, sending Kellwood shares revive the Anne Klein collection president and chief operating of- include more better brands. Of Maxwell Shoe. The opportunity up $1.29 or 4.3 percent to close at with well-received runway ficer. Meanwhile, Idol’s compen- course, the acquisition of the is to leverage the Anne Klein $31.07 in New York Stock shows, left abruptly in April, sation package, as detailed in a Anne Klein label opens the door name and build a sizeable Exchange trading Thursday. adding to the confusion. filing with the Securities and for lots of growth scenarios.” sportswear business with it. Kasper shares, facing the likeli- Idol is well protected, either Exchange Commission, includes Kellwood is serious about the Kellwood has the resources to hood of extinguishment after the way, considering his employment a payout to him of about $11 mil- acquisition and plans to com- make Anne Klein into what it firm’s assets are sold, lost more contract calls for a lump-sum lion, roughly the same amount he pete in the bidding process, can be and it’s a great acquisi- than half their value, closing at payment in the event of an emer- received in a settlement with which Upbin cautioned could tion for them.” $1.40 in over-the-counter trading. gence from Chapter 11, a sale to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis take as long as August or Paul Altman, senior associate Apart from the changes of another firm or termination or Vuitton last year, following his de- September before it’s all over. of The Sage Group, a Los Angeles- president and ceo of Kasper, employment for any number of parture from Donna Karan “We hope we’ll prevail, but based investment banking firm the company said in a state- reasons. Kellwood, too, appears International in 2001. we really don’t know,” he said. that advised Juicy Couture on its ment that the remainder of the to be protected in the case anoth- If another company like Jones “We have the capability to go as sale to Liz Claiborne Inc. and Earl management team is intended er company is ultimately suc- should prevail, however, Idol high as it makes sense and we Jeans on its sale to Nautica to remain in place under a cessful in acquiring Kasper. could potentially choose to stick have the resources to do so.” Enterprises, said, “It’s always in- Kellwood acquisition. Karen Goodman, a director around rather than cash out. As of May 3, Kellwood had teresting in bankruptcy situa- “The employees of Kasper of Financo, said it is customary “I have several different op- cash on hand and time deposits tions. In essence, Kellwood is the have done an excellent job of re- for there to be bid protections in tions I am looking at and once we totaling $95.3 million. stalking horse. It’s the first bid vitalizing the company and re- place for the buyer of a compa- have completed the required Jones could likely give that creates the market. You can turning it to profitability,” said ny out of bankruptcy. Sources bidding process, I’ll make a more Kellwood a run for its money. As be easily overbid.” Idol, in the release, adding that said in this case, if someone definitive decision on where I reported on Thursday, Jones has But, he added: “It makes the Kasper division would report comes in with a higher bid, they will go,” Idol said in a telephone obtained a $700 million three- strategic and financial sense for directly to Ruzow. “Kellwood, would have to pay Kellwood a interview, during which he indi- year revolving bank credit facility Kellwood. They’ve been very ac- with its strong balance sheet, break-up fee of $4 million. cated that Kellwood could make that extends to June 10, 2006. quisitive and focused on the mod- worldwide sourcing network, ex- — With contributions from a strong future partner for the Combined with the company’s ex- erate market. We think they’re tensive customer base and excel- Lisa Lockwood, David Moin, Kasper businesses. “I think it’s a tant $700 million revolving credit getting a good deal. By virtue of lent merchandising capabilities, Joshua Greene and very good fit for the company facility, which lasts until June 15, being part of a bankruptcy will allow Kasper to achieve its Arnold J. Karr and employees. What I’m partic- 2004, Jones now has $1.4 billion process, you can get strong ularly happy about for the com- of committed bank credit. Peter brands at affordable prices.” pany is that Kellwood plans to Boneparth, ceo of Jones, de- Arthur S. Levine, the former keep it entirely intact. The com- clined to comment on Thursday. Kasper chairman and founder pany is in very good shape right Kasper is a considerable op- who was at the helm when the now and it’s on a roll.” portunity for the interested par- firm bought Anne Klein in 1999, Anne Klein Sets 2 Licenses Kasper has been exploring ties, with sales of $358 million in then left and started a better various strategic options, with 2002 and a 16 percent increase suit line with Elie Tahari last NEW YORK — On the same day made by Liberty Umbrellas for Peter J. Solomon Co. as a finan- in licensing revenues to $17.7 year that competes directly with it was announced that Kellwood the Anne Klein New York and cial adviser, as part of its plan to million, with an income for the Kasper suits, said the deal will offered to buy Anne Klein’s par- AK Anne Klein labels. The line emerge from bankruptcy protec- year of $6.4 million as compared not affect his business. ent, Kasper ASL, Anne Klein will feature folding and stick tion in the coming weeks, includ- with a loss of $75.5 million the “I wish them the best,” Levine also said it is extending its sta- styles in solids and prints de- ing a management-led takeover year before. Income in its most said. “It has been in the works ble of accessories. signed to coordinate with the offer beginning last December recent quarter, ended March 29, for a while now and it was in- The firm said it has signed brand’s sportswear offerings. for $88 million that was subse- was $8 million on sales of and li- evitable, it had to be bought. I’m licensing deals for two new Anne Klein’s accessories quently increased to $100 mil- censing of $104.9 million. sure they’re going to run Kasper product categories: legwear products include handbags, lion. However, talks appeared to Gilbert Harrison, chairman as it’s been run, but I don’t know and umbrellas. Legwear will now made in-house, as well as be dragging as the likely candi- of Financo Inc., which advised what they’re intending to do.” be made by Leg Resource Inc. licensed watches, eyewear, dates to make a competing offer Kellwood on its transaction, Upbin said Kasper, consist- and will include a range of cold-weather accessories, were distracted by coincidental said the deal would give ing of five distinct brands — the socks, tights and hosiery for footwear, scarves and belts. developments, including Jones’ Kellwood “two established, at- moderate brand Le Suit, better fall under the Anne Klein New Sales projections for the two dispute with Polo Ralph Lauren tractive brands: Kasper, with its brands Kasper suits, sportswear York label, while AK Anne new categories were not re- and Kellwood’s reported negoti- predominance in the women’s and dresses; AK Anne Klein Klein and AK Sport lines will vealed, but the company’s ations with Phillips-Van Heusen suit business and Anne Klein, sportswear and Anne Klein bow for spring 2004. total accessories accounted to obtain the women’s better col- with its tremendous position in dresses, and Albert Nipon and Umbrellas and rain acces- for about $200 million in sales lection license for CK. licensing that Kellwood should Anne Klein New York targeting sories, meanwhile, are being in 2002. At the same time, there was a be able to grow vigorously. It’s the bridge market — would be a 8 Kate’s Wedded Bliss Rod’s Life Set to Music A Royal Birthday in Monte Carlo

marriage — joining half the other people in the country. The culturati the glitterati and the socialrati from all over have converged on Venice for the great Venitian Heritage festival this weekend. They have been primping and preening and dress rehearsing for weeks getting ready RIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 RIDAY,

F for the big show. Ann Nitze of New York and Washington,

, for instance, stopped in London perchance to purchase a D

W new frock for the elegant Ballo in Agua party tomorrow

W night, given by the international hostess and fashion figure, Dodie Rosekrans, of San Francisco, Paris and Venice, where she entertains in grand style at her magnificent Palazzo Brandolini. You know that 10 years ago, the fabulous designer, Zandra Rhodes, hung it up, so to speak, and anyone not lucky enough to have saved one or two or three of her creations like no other from the days when Zandra was active has been having a hard time trying to find one since. Ann was invited to Zandra Rhodes’ new museum, which opened in May in London, where you may look at her collections — but can’t touch and can’t buy. That’s where she was inspired to find one of those dream dresses for the ball. What do you know, but somewhere in south London she came across a shimmering vintage Zandra Rhodes embroidered all over in seed pearls with big ones outlining the neck and hem and beaded aqua streamers floating everywhere, so that when you walk, the pearls move, the streamers flow and the dress undulates like high tide in a Venitian canal. Heaven. Prince Rainier celebrated his 80th birthday at a festive lunch surrounded by his three children and seven grandchildren in the Pink Palace in Monte Carlo. Toasting his long reign and singing happy birthday, were his son and heir Prince Albert; Princess Caroline, with her husband Prince Ernst of Hanover and their little daughter Alexandra, and her children by her marriage to the late Stefano Casiraghi, Andrea, Charlotte and Pierre, and Princess Stephanie and her children, Louis, Pauline

Suzy and Camille. Princess Caroline Later in the day, he was By Aileen Mehle cheered by his countrymen and friends, including, if you Of course you’ve heard that Kate Winslet care, everywhere-you-look and director Sam Mendes quietly married in models Heidi Klum and Elle the West Indies in an intimate ceremony MacPherson, as he handed the eye® attended by only three close friends and Grand Prix trophy to Kate’s daughter from a former marriage, Columbian race car driver Juan two-year-old Mia. The loving couple is honeymooning in Pablo Montoya. Princess Europe at the moment and planning to extend the Stephanie, 38, did not bring her romantic interlude for as long as they possibly can. They latest conquest, 29-year-old would like to travel around the world for a year and come circus acrobat Adans Peres, to back with a baby brother or a sister for little Mia — but is lunch, which is probably a good there really time for that sort of thing? Kate is supposed to thing, as her marital and start filming “Romance and Cigarettes,” written and extramarital adventures are directed by John Turturro and co-starring James supposed to have upset her Gandolfini and Susan Sarandon, sometime in early father over the years. autumn. Mendes has commitments, too. “We’re very Prince Rainier’s 19-year- happy, unbelievably happy,” says Kate. “It’s one of those old grandson, Andrea unexplainable things that we’re together.” All they need Casiraghi, who is almost as now is that slow boat to China. good looking as his sister, Charlotte, left his girlfriend, Those 63 pairs of Jimmy Choo shoes perky Reese the beautiful aristocrat, Witherspoon wears in “Legally Blonde 2” were specially Caroline von Stauffenberg, made and designed out of materials other than leather. You Reese behind as well, although it is see, in this movie the pink-outfit-loving blonde who looks Witherspoon said that mother Caroline dumb but isn’t goes to Washington as an animal rights likes her very much, as does lobbyist. And she takes it all the way, even matching her grandfather Rainier. The young couple have been on dog’s costume to her own. Reese will wear the pretty vacations together in Kenya and Switzerland chaperoned shoes in real life and has practically had to build a closet in by his parents, and are so very much in the throes of her house just for them. It’s a hard life. But somebody’s puppy love you could put them in a doggie show. got to wear Jimmy Choos. Adrien Brody wants to add music producer to his list of Rod Stewart is coming to town this weekend to sing at credits and is at work on his first album. This might be a private party in Southampton. The rocker is excited Kate Winslet because he won an Oscar playing a character whose because he is to be the subject of a new musical opening in musical talent changed his life in “The Pianist.” Or London in October and possibly heading to Broadway a new British television series. She will play Georgi, a sexy, because he is dating Michelle Dupont, who fancies herself year later. It’s called “Tonight’s the Night” and includes 22 stylish London socialite — but aren’t they all? The show a 21st-century “Penny Lane,” the famous rock groupie of his greatest hits, like “Maggie May” and “Do Ya Think also will star that fine actress, Emily Lloyd. You will be Kate Hudson played in “Almost Famous.” Brody thinks I’m Sexy?” The theme revolves around Rod’s notorious thrilled to hear that after four years, Rachel and Rod have it’s easier for a musician to be taken seriously as an actor love life. Remember Alana Hamilton Stewart, Britt finally reached a divorce settlement, which means lots of than an actor to be taken seriously as a musician. “I’m not Ekland, Caprice Bourret, Kelly Ember and his latest money for her and her two young children. It also frees a rapper,” he says. “I’m a music producer. I compose and I estranged wife, Rachel Hunter? Rod to marry his longtime girlfriend, model Penny want my album to be heard not just because it’s music Rachel herself has just nabbed a hot part in “Denial,” a Lancaster. Maybe. Rod has said he’s had enough of from Adrien Brody.” I can wait if you can. Your cross-selling opportunities just got a whole lot brighter.

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Emily is wearing Bright EyesTM Mascara in Black, Bright EyesTM Color Cream Shadows in Golden Gleam, Pink Glow and Lilac Lustre, and Bright EyesTM Defining Color DuoTM Eyeliner in Plum & Pink. 10 The Beauty Report Sander’s New Take on Pure

PARIS — Jil Sander’s back — not just at The word Pure stretches in white freshness” — slightly aquatic and vege- her signature fashion house, but with a across the width of the page under tal, though not green. new women’s fragrance, called Jil Solari’s upraised arms. There’s also a Fabien Baron, of Baron & Baron, Sander Pure, starting this fall. product shot in the lower right-hand designed the streamlined, clear Jil

WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, “I think it’s such a great moment — it corner and, above, the tag line: “Jil Sander Pure bottle that’s an upright rec- is like someone directed it so it could Sander the new fragrance for women.” tangle. The word “Pure” appears from [all] happen just now,” Sander told The print ad comes in single and dou- the back of the bottle and joins with “Jil WWD at her scent’s press launch here. ble-pages, which were created by Air Sander” in smaller typeface on the front. Indeed, Sander’s comeback with the advertising agency’s Tho Van Tran and Although Lancaster executives fragrance after three years of absence is shot by photographer Mikael Jansson. It would not discuss numbers, industry also a homecoming. will break starting in September, when sources estimate Jil Sander Pure will “When we started developing fra- the scent is introduced in Europe and generate $25 million in retail sales dur- grances with Jil Sander, the first one [in travel retail. Another version of the visu- ing its first 12 months. 1977] was called Women Pure,” al, focusing on Solari’s face, will be Jil Sander Pure will come as a 50-ml. explained Michele Scannavini, presi- released in the Middle East when the eau de toilette for $57 and a 75-ml. edt dent of the Lancaster Group, Coty Inc.’s scent’s launched, also in September. for $73. There will also be ancillaries, prestige division. Now, the company is Jil Sander Pure will first bow exclu- including a 200-ml. shower gel for $29, a about to launch its next Pure install- sively at Colette in Paris in mid-July. 200-ml. body milk for $33 and a 40-ml. ment, taking its cue from Sander’s clean The fragrance is an abstract floral deodorant gel for $22. and spare design. woody musk created by Firmenich’s All dollar prices are converted from “Jil Sander Pure encapsulates the Nathalie Lorson and Ilias Ermenidis. the euro at current exchange rates. key values of the brand,” said Francoise “It’s an easy-to-wear fragrance, Lancaster executives say they expect Jil Sander Pure Mariez, senior vice president of market- which [brings to mind] elegance and Jil Sander Pure to be among the main pil- ing for fragrances at Lancaster Group. modernity,” said Lorson. lars of the Sander franchise, which said it has a very strong presence in The project has a highly modern Built on a spiral-like olfactive struc- includes the Sun and Sun Men fragrances, Germany, but also elsewhere in approach. Take its advertising, for ture, rather than the traditional pyra- and Sander for Men and Sensation. Northern and Central Europe. instance. The black-and-white photo mid, its notes are meant to be apparent “Compared to Sun, they’re a bit more “We are developing in a very positive features statuesque model Vivian Solari through the dry-down. They include jas- sophisticated and have a higher posi- way in Italy,” where Jil Sander Pure will drawing the string of a bow sans arrow. mine, cyclamen, green sap, white musk, tioning in terms of price,” said be introduced during fashion week this “What she’s targeting is herself,” said sandalwood and ambrette seed. Scannavini of the latter two scents. fall, he added. Frederique Bernascone, international The juice also has a transparent mol- For its part, Jil Sander Pure will tar- And, for the future, Scannavini is marketing director at Jil Sander ecule that’s being used for the first time get an urban demographic. broadening the horizons even more. The Fragrances. “She knows where she in a commercial scent, Firmenich per- When it comes to regional reach for idea? “To make Jil Sander global,” he said. wants to go.” fumers said. They call it “a blow of the entire Jil Sander brand, Scannavini — Jennifer Weil Fragrance is Cartier’s New Jewel NEW YORK — Cartier is aim- dent and chief executive offi- ence is 30- to 45-year-old ing to overhaul its fragrance cer of Cartier. women, noted Joseph Giugliano business with the fall introduc- “We see this scent as the first Jr., general manager of fra- tion of its newest women’s step toward the rebirth of grance for Cartier. scent, Le Baiser du Dragon. Parfums Cartier,” said de The juice, by Alberto For the first time in Cartier Quercize, who also is aiming to Morillas of Firmenich, is a fragrance history, the brand create a new women’s category woody vetiver. Morillas also will launch the scent first in — woody vetiver — with the fra- created Cartier’s Panthere de the U.S. rather than in France. grance. “Le Baiser du Dragon is Cartier. Le Baiser du Dragon’s And to give the fragrance max- centered around unexpected top notes are of soft amaretto, imum impact, the scent is woody notes, which are not vibrant neroli flower and lumi- being tied to a new jewelry commonly used in women’s fra- nous gardenia; middle notes line of the same name, noted grances,” he added. are of sensual cedarwood, iris Stanislas de Quercize, presi- The fragrance’s target audi- and Bulgarian rose, and base notes are of woody vetiver, Stanislas de Quercize and Joseph Giugliano Jr. patchouli, smoky amber and tear of Benzoin, a resin of a factured by Bormioli Luigi. nor Giugliano would comment wood that smells like choco- “The colors and symbols are on projected sales, industry late and caramel. intended to correspond to the sources estimated that the fra- The collection includes a 1- brand’s core values, including grance would do upward of $5 oz. parfum for $175 and eau de strength and elegance, luxury million at retail in its first six parfum sprays in three sizes: 1 and mystery and harmony and months on counter, with total oz. for $55, 1.6 oz. for $80 and 3.3 serenity,” added de Quercize. first-year numbers expected to oz. for $110. Ancillaries include The fragrance launches in top $8 million. a 6.75-oz. bath and shower the U.S. in mid-August and will While no national advertising cream for $45 and a 6.75-oz. be in extremely limited distri- is planned at launch — a cam- body milk for $40. Exclusive gift bution, noted Giugliano. While paign is tentatively planned for sets for Neiman Marcus and Cartier fragrances are current- spring 2004 — Cartier will drive Saks Fifth Avenue also will be ly in about 269 doors, total dis- awareness through in-store offered. The Neiman Marcus tribution for the new scent will materials and about 1.5 million set includes a 1-oz. parfum, a be less than 200 doors, he said. scented pieces, including deluxe 3.3-oz. eau de parfum, a 6.75- About five of these doors will miniatures and direct mailers. oz. bath and shower cream and get the fragrance on Aug. 15, Scented Cartier ribbons and hair a 6.75-oz. body milk for $370, including Cartier’s New York mists also will be offered. and the Saks gift set includes flagship and Neiman Marcus “We think that the Le eau de parfums in both the 3.3- doors in Dallas’ North Park, Baiser du Dragon fragrance is oz. and 1-oz. sizes as well as Beverly Hills, Chicago and San extraordinary — it’s a unique, full sizes of bath and shower Francisco. The second wave timeless scent that we feel is cream and body milk for $250. will hit on Sept. 15, when the destined to become a classic,” The bottle is designed to be remaining Cartier boutiques said Jim Gold, senior vice a modern interpretation of vin- and Neiman Marcus doors — president and general mer- tage Cartier packaging, sym- about another 63 stores — get chandising manager for bolizing the brand’s history, the scent. In November, Saks Neiman Marcus. “A great juice linking back to the brand’s Fifth Avenue’s New York flag- is coupled with a bottle that’s a original flacon, said de ship will get the scent, and work of art. I think that every- Quercize. The clear, round post-Christmas, the remaining thing about this fragrance rep- glass bottle features the black Saks doors — about 59 of them resents pure luxury, which is Chinese symbol for longevity. — will get the fragrance. In why Cartier and Neiman Congratulations on the The bottle’s top is also of glass spring 2004, the fragrance will Marcus are the perfect match. 2003 FiFi Fragrance Star of the Year — black with a red strip and a enter its remaining doors — It’s a great marriage, and silver stylized Chinese-symbol select Bloomingdale’s and we’re going to make sure it’s a top. The bottle and cap were Nordstrom locations. home run.” DISPLAYS • COLLATERAL • RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS REQUEST A PICTORIAL BROCHURE (212) 246-3780 / [email protected] designed in-house, and manu- While neither de Quercize — Julie Naughton PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTO Congratulations to all the FiFi winners!

Symrise Inc. 317 West 13th Street New York, NY 10014 Phone (212) 271-5027 Fax (212) 271-5028 www.symrise.com 12 The Beauty Report Designers Rule At FiFi’s Cedric Prouve and Patrick WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, Bousquet- And the FiFi Chavanne Goes to... Celebrity Fragrance Star of the Year: Jennifer Lopez

William Women’s Fragrance Introduction Lauder of the Year — Mass Appeal (Only and Fragrances Sold in Drug and Chain Kate Hannah Saujet, Deborah Stores/Private Label/Direct Sell): Spade Walters and Kate Oldham. The Healing Garden Waters Sheer Passion — Coty Beauty US NEW YORK — Patrick Bousquet- traordinary bridge between cultures,” Nancy Chavanne treated his fellow executives Bousquet-Chavanne added, “the stuff of Feldman Women’s Fragrance Introduction to a lighthearted jolt of reality. dreams, the inspiration for romance, for of the Year — Luxe (Only Harvey Fierstein, fresh from winning personal expression and so much more.” fragrances sold in Specialty and/or a Tony Award for his role in “Hairspray” In her first awards ceremony as presi- Department Stores): Chanel’s the night before, gave the beleaguered dent, Bloom took an editor’s pencil to the Chance fragrance industry the laughs it desper- program, consolidating the number of ately craved after one of its worst years awards. The result was a running time of Women’s Fragrance Introduction in a decade. an hour and 15 minutes, compared with of the Year — Nouveau Niche By winning with Chance, Chanel last year’s two-and-a-half hour extrava- (Fragrances sold in specialty stores demonstrated that the old guard is not ganza. While many executives praised and/or department stores): Vera ready to step aside to make way for a the pared-down program, at least one ex- Wang — Unilever Prestige feisty crop of brash new upstarts, even ecutive griped that there is room for im- one with the undeniable sex appeal of provement. Calling it “2002 redux.” he Men’s Fragrance Introduction of Jean-Paul the Year — Mass Appeal (Only Agon Jennifer Lopez. expressed disappointment that the for- Welcome to the post-Annette Green mat had not changed more dramatically. Fragrances Sold in Drug and Chain 31st Annual FiFi Awards ceremony, Despite a year so bruising that flat Stores/Private Label/Direct Sell): which was held Monday night at Lincoln business is considered a plus, Avery Club Med My Ocean For Him Center. Green, the driving force behind Fisher Hall seemed to overflow with ex- — Coty Beauty US the Fragrance Foundation for the last ecutives ready to party. A foundation three decades, was succeeded by spokesman put attendance at 1,500, far Men's Fragrance Introduction of Rochelle Bloom as president, who credit- outstripping last year’s 1,200. the Year — Luxe (Only fragrances ed her successor’s accomplishments as But as Bousquet-Chavanne pointed sold in Specialty and/or Department she navigated through her first FiFi night. out, the evening was about awards and Stores): Polo Ralph Lauren Blue Bousquet-Chavanne, Fragrance the winners included Coty, which took — Ralph Lauren Fragrances Foundation chairman and a group presi- home three FiFi statuettes; Chanel, dent at Estée Lauder Cos., asserted that Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang and Marc Men’s Fragrance Introduction of the Year — Nouveau Niche Laura the organization has embarked on a year Jacobs, all with two FiFi’s each, and of new directions, with a new president Calvin Klein, Kate Spade, Tiffany and (Fragrances sold in specialty stores Lee and/or department stores): Marc Miller and a renewed mission. He then set the Risdon-AMS, with one apiece. The mag- evening’s tone with a razor’s edge. azine FiFi went to Allure. Jacobs Men — American “We’re here tonight to celebrate innova- Chanel’s Chance took home the most Designer Fragrances LLC, Andrea Hiroshi Robinson tion and creativity,” he said, “and a great hotly contested FiFi — for women’s in- Parfums Givenchy, Inc. year for fragrances. I guess it was a great troduction of the year in Luxe distribu- Maruyama year, if you don’t count the results. tion of over 500 specialty and depart- Fragrance Hall of Fame: Eternity “We’ve launched more…but sold ment store doors — beating out Coty’s — Calvin Klein Cosmetics less,” he continued. “We’ve sampled Glow by JLo, which was the surprise hit more, advertised more…and spent more, of last fall. Lopez, however, did manage Technological Breakthrough of but we sold less. We’ve made holidays to cart home a FiFi for Celebrity the Year: Risdon-AMS for its de- memorable…but not because of sales. Fragrance Star of the year. livery system for Calvin Klein’s We’ve been more creative ...but the con- Chanel’s victory, however, was the re- Crave. sumers don’t seem to care. I guess, like sult of a long process that did not come Bath & Body Star of the Year: Franco-American relations…this year, easily, prompting Laurie Palma, vice we just didn’t seem to get it right. president of fragrance marketing at Kate Spade Beauty “And yet fragrance remains an ex- Continued on page 14 Best National Advertising Cristina Campaign (Print and/or TV) in Bornstein 2002 for an Established Women's and Werner Fragrance: Chanel No. 5 - Hofmann Chanel Best National Advertising Campaign (Print and/or TV) in 2002 for an Established Men's Fragrance: Ralph Lauren Romance Men - Ralph Lauren Fragrances

Interior Scent Collection of the Year: Tiffany Scented Candle Camille McDonald Prism Crystal Votive, Single and and Patrick John Galantic and Mini Collection — Tiffany & Co. Bousquet-Chavanne Eric Thoreux Barbara Zinn-Moore Men’s Packaging Of the Year: Marc Jacobs Men — American Designer Fragrances LLC, Parfums Givenchy, Inc. Women's Packaging Of the Year: Vera Wang - Unilever Prestige Editorial Excellence In Year- round Fragrance Coverage: Allure

Bettina Certified Sales Specialist Top Rita Mangan Schilling Scorer: Carman Ferraioli - Rochelle and Maggie and Bernd Dan Brestle and Nordstrom, Paramus, N.J. Bloom Ciafardini Beetz Pamela Baxter PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND JOHN CALABRESEJOHN AND EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS © 2003 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. IFF congratulates our partners at Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company,Cosmetics Klein Calvin at partners our congratulates IFF Ralph Lauren Fragrances and Coty Beauty US on their Fifi Awards. Fifi their on US Beauty Coty and Fragrances Lauren Ralph Nature unveiled. Nature 14 TheBeautyReport Fashion Tops the FiFi’s Backstage Hilary Show Buzz Dart NEW YORK — Not all the entertainment

WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, was onstage at the 31st Annual FiFi Awards Monday night — presenters at the event had their own cheeky moments backstage. Among the zingers — aside from when Harvey Fierstein showed a reporter the red suspenders he had hidden under his tuxe- do — was when the Broadway actor said: “Winning the [Tony] award is better than losing it,” referring to his Best Performance by a Leading Actor in a Musical honors for Vera Wang and Art Spiro and “Hairspray” the night before. “But that’s Chet Hazzard Sue Hochman why I took this gig,” he continued. “I fig- ured if I lost last night, at least I’d get a Continued from page 12 paycheck and applause today.” Chanel, to remark, “It was easier giving birth to my son than to this fragrance.” When asked if he was a fragrance fan, Although the field included Elizabeth Taylor, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Fierstein said, “I like fragrance, but I Elton John, the toughest competition that Lopez faced in winning the don’t like over-fragrance. Iguess people celebrity FiFi came from Vera Wang, according to sources. Jacobs and Spade should wear a lot to sell more, [but] some- also placed in the celebrity balloting. Wang won for women’s introduction of times I wish perfume came with a warning the year in Nouveau Niche, or specialty stores under 500 doors. She also label: ‘Will smell up an elevator.’” won for women’s packaging of the year. Fierstein named Chanel No.5 among his For the first time, a man, Carman Ferraioli of Nordstrom’s Paramus store, favorites because it brings back memories got a perfect score on the certified sales specialist exam and took home a of the “fermented bottle of No.5” sitting FiFi for his trouble. on his mother’s bureau, which “my father Bloom may have condensed the program, but the acceptance speeches brought back from the Navy.” Red suspenders weren’t the only back- Luc tended to run on, primarily because some of the winners seemed compelled to give credit to everyone in memory. One of the more grateful and loqua- stage discovery. A few degrees of film-in- Nadeau cious winners was Laura Lee Miller, president of Unilever Prestige, which dustry separation also were uncovered. has the Vera Wang license. She started with a lavish, heartfelt tribute to FiFi’s presenters Al Thompson and Brande Wang, who was standing nearby, then launched into an exhaustive list of Roderick discovered their link through names that made the crowd squirm. It also emboldened Fierstein to come Owen Wilson, who starred with Thompson wheeling to the microphone, firing off a barrage of zingers. “I think Eugene in “The Royal Tenenbaums.” Wilson also O’Neill wrote that speech,” he began, apparently referring to “A Long Day’s plays Hutch in this year’s “Starsky & Journey into Night.” Fierstein then mockingly thanked “the people who built Robin Burns Hutch,” in which Roderick will appear. the building,” and after getting a few more licks in about how much time had Another Broadway player in the Tony passed, Fierstein reintroduced Bloom to the stage with the crack: “a little — and now also FiFi — fraternity is older but still beautiful, Rochelle Bloom — in a wheelchair.” Sutton Foster, who won a Tony in 2002 Reacting to an aside made by a recipient that it is an honor just to be for her role in “Thoroughly Modern Jack nominated, Fierstein appeared to sum up the feelings of many in the audi- Millie.” A year later, “I’m still trying to Wiswall ence when he said, “I have to tell you that being nominated means nothing.” wrap my brain around it,” she said. He then salved the wound with the comment, “I who am not only a nomi- Foster presented at the FiFi’s Monday — nee but a winner, I want to congratulate each one of you, just as I congratu- after presenting the night before at the lated Antonio [Banderas] last night.” He was referring to his achievement in Tonys — quipping, “Lately it’s been hard beating Banderas for best actor in a musical at the Tony Awards. to task manage.” Throughout the evening, Fierstein alluded to his experience with fra- Presenter Frenchie Davis, who current- grance. Noting that he once dated a man who used different flavors of ly appears in “Rent” and was a finalist on Herbal Essences on different parts of his body, Fierstein exclaimed, “He was Alain “American Idol,” said, “I love fragrance, just a fruit salad.” Denoly [specifically] anything floral, but especial- Attesting to the power of scent to recall memories, he said, “the smell of ly Creed. Anything that makes you feel dog shit always means spring to me.” In watching all the designer brands win pretty is good.” Prior to belting out a ren- awards, Fierstein joked, “my suit came from Rochester Fat and F---ked…be- dition of “It Don’t Mean A Thing” with a cause in this city, if you look fat, you’re f---ked.” twisting Fierstein onstage, Davis said But amid all the levity and expansive thank you’s, there were also incredi- backstage that her stint on “American bly poignant moments. When Andrea Robinson, president of Ralph Lauren Idol” was “just a fragment of who I am as Fragrances Worldwide at L’Orèal USA, accepted the men’s advertising award a woman. There’s so much more to me.” for Romance for Men, her remarks turned into a moving tribute to the late Presenter Hilarie Burton, an MTV vee- Sandy Carlson, the ad woman who was central to the development of the cam- jay of three years who helped announce paign. Robinson spoke of Carlson’s brilliance and passion and concluded that FiFi’s nominees at Bloomingdale’s May Jean Hoehn Continued on page 16 6, finds behind-the-scenes aspects of Zimmerman the fragrance industry most engaging. Fabienne Bousquet- “It’s interesting to meet [insiders] and Phebe Farrow Port, see [development] processes in the new Chavanne and Lyn Leigh and Janet Cook. Patrick Firmenich fragrance categories,” she said, noting that she was wearing Gucci Eau de Parfum. She didn’t rule out the possibili- ty that this interest could some day translate into getting involved with her own fragrance project. “When I heard there was something as decadent as a FiFi, I had to be a part of Bernard Catherine it,” said presenter Elisabeth Rohm of Potier Walsh “Law & Order,” who mentioned the 20 fragrance bottles arranged on her bureau. “This is a night you get to be a girl — a great, indulgent, feminine experience.” John Coco and Arie She was wearing her favorite scent, Il Karp Kopelman Bacio from Borghese. While a number of presenters had never heard of a FiFi, first-time presenter Eva LaRue, from “All My Children,” has known about the awards for several years. LaRue’s FiFi’s quotient was upped by “good friend” Kelly Ripa, who also starred on the soap opera. “She had just gotten “Regis and Kelly” and then pre- sented [at the FiFi’s],” LaRue said, think- ing back to hearing of Ripa’s FiFi’s expe- Don rience several years ago. Peter — Matthew W. Evans Lichtenthal Loftus © 2002 Unilever Cosmetics International / VERAWANG™ owned by V.E.W., Ltd. All jewelry by Fred Leighton. UNILEVER PRESTIGE AND VERA WANG VERA AND PRESTIGE UNILEVER extend heartfelt thanks heartfelt extend Star of the Yearof Star Women’sPackaging Niche Nouveau the Yearof Star Women’sFragrance h Farne onain ih h 2003 Awards.FiFi by the with recognized Foundation be Fragrance the to honored are We Verathe Wangof success fragrance. the to contributed and dream our shared who editors beauty and the consultants partners, fragrance retail our suppliers, our to 16 TheBeauty Report FiFi’s Stylish Evening Manufacturers Still Hope

Barbara and Rosie and Steve Pearlman Charles Drayson For Slight Fall Sales Rise WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, NEW YORK — In a year where flat business was considered almost a victory by be- leaguered fragrance executives, many are hoping for better luck next year. At the FiFi’s Monday night, some executives were slightly upbeat about the in- dustry’s prospects, while others predicted that the gloom surrounding the industry will be ongoing. “I’m hoping for a better fall,” said Bernd Beetz, chief executive officer of Coty Inc. But while he’s hopeful, he admitted that how things will actually work out re- mains murky at this point. “I cannot see a [clear] picture of the fall from the mar- ket now.” Pointing out that hopes abound in the industry for an improvement as the Niki Taylor summer draws to a close, he added, “An upswing has not been realized.” On the Theo Spilka, Mark Badgley and James Mischka. other hand, Beetz said, “our launches [such as Celine Dion and JLo] are going pret- ty well, so the consumer is reacting.” While Beetz has seen exceptional sales power with celebrity scents, other execu- tives questioned the sustainability of the genre, wondering whether or not they are just “flashes in the pan” or if they have the potential to be long-term successes. “Licenses have been good for some companies [but] celebrity fragrances have had different for- tunes,” one executive observed. “It works today, but will it work tomorrow?” There are opportunities out there, however, believes Hiroshi Maruyama, chairman and chief executive officer of Shiseido. While he acknowledged that the overall fragrance market continues to be tough, he sees opportunities for niche scents and fragranced products. Case in point: Shiseido’s Body Creator, a cellulite product that uses scent as a technology. Shiseido is also the parent company of Beauté Prestige International, which Errol handles such scents as Issey Miyake and the upcoming Narciso Rodriguez fragrance. Stafford “The economy will improve in the second half, but things will continue to be slow and uncertain for a lot of businesses,” said Scott Beattie, chairman and chief Continued from page 14 executive officer of Elizabeth Arden. “We’re diversified in our distribution, and serv- “she would be thrilled at this honor.” Lauren also icing a number of different types of consumers, which will continue to benefit our won for best men’s fragrance introduction in Luxe business. We’re also seeing that classic fragrances are as popular now as ever.” distribution of over 500 doors. When Jacqueline Another who believes classics will drive the market is Bernard Potier, president Singer, group marketing director and John Galantic, and chief executive officer of Christian Dior’s U.S. operations. “We are expecting re- president of Coty Beauty U.S., accepted the FiFi for birth not only with new products, but with the classics. There should be a trading women’s fragrance of the year mass appeal, Singer up, not a trading down with [gift] sets and the bargain of the month,” he said. paid tribute to the late Dr. Braja Mookherjee of IFF. Others feel that an increase is coming in the near future, but are placing their In accepting the Hall of Fame award for Eternity, bets based on the new fragrance launches. Executives at the Estée Lauder Cos. are Hilary Dart, president of Calvin Klein Cosmetics, not optimistic. “We’re planning fragrance up 4 to 5 percent, especially with the launch only cited the “vision of Calvin Klein,” but she also of Beyond Paradise, which is a new direction and concept for us,” noted Janet credited International Flavors and Fragrances for Alison Farn Cook, president of Estée Lauder North America. Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice pres- “creating a timeless scent” and even praised “the ident of global marketing for the Lauder division, who also expects an increase for original team” which conceived and launched the fall, hopes the customer will respond and said “we’re betting on Beyond Paradise.” Martha Brady fragrance in 1988. William Lauder, chief operating officer of the Estée Lauder Cos., also noted that Linda Wells, editor in chief of Allure, paid tribute he expects the company’s fragrance business to be up “very slightly” and cited a to her friend and colleague Art Cooper, the recently number of new initiatives in store, the aforementioned Beyond Paradise, as well as retired editor of GQ, who died earlier that day. Simply from Clinique and Life from Aramis. Perhaps the winner with the most conflicted feel- Joe Horowitz, president and chief executive officer of Groupe Clarins, was an- ings was Camille McDonald, president and chief exec- other that’s upbeat about the category. “We’re excited — we’re seeing an uptick in utive officer of the U.S. divisions of Parfums Givenchy sales, particularly on the men’s side with Azzaro Chrome,” he said. Veronique and Guerlain Paris, who found herself in the awkward Also optimistic is Robin Burns, president and chief executive officer of The Limited’s Gabai and position of accepting two FiFi’s for a brand, Marc Intimate Beauty Corp. and its Aura Science and Victoria’s Secret Beauty divisions. “We Roger Schmidt Jacobs, that her parent company, LVMH Moët see the consumer slowly coming back, [which will continue] as long as the world doesn’t Hennessy Louis Vuitton, recently sold to Coty. Jacobs have another issue, but she’ll be ready for innovation.” The company will be ready and won for best men’s introduction in upscale distribu- armed with new fragrances for men and women, as well as giftable items. tion under 500 doors and for best men’s packaging. Burns noted in tough times, there are two choices — play it safe or “take a big “We thought we might be sharing this with the new leap” into a new direction that will appeal to the consumer. Clearly, the latter owners, who take over on June 30,” McDonald ex- Ben course is more promising but it also is more difficult. “The tendency of the industry plained. Then she jested, “It was between me and Bob Gillikin is to get comfortable,” she said. “To change is uncomfortable.” Cankes [president of Coty’s U.S. Lancaster division] to Retailers are also hoping that the new items will lead to increased business. “It accept this award, but I had the prettiest dress.” will take animation and special events, but I think we’ll see the customer respond,” She then added, “It has been a wonderful short said Thia Breen, senior vice president of cosmetics for Federated. journey for American Designer Fragrances.” Deborah Walters, senior vice president and general merchandise manager for Richard Thanking her boss Patrick Choël and LVMH for their Saks Fifth Avenue, believes that new launches will be a large part of the engine Goldstein support in the creation of her fledgling American de- driving growth this fall, adding that she’s especially looking forward to the upcom- signer fragrance business, she said, “Our brands will ing Narciso Rodriguez launch. live on with their superb new owners.” “I’m optimistic for fall and think it will increase at least three points,” said Laurice Later, however, McDonald seemed sadly philosoph- Rahme, founder of Bond No. 9 and president of Creed USA, referring to the women’s ical. “It’s always good to win, no matter what the status category. Rahme believes women’s fragrance will be “inspired because women have of the owner, and it’s good to go out with a bang.” been deprived and fragrances will be rich and womanly, nothing will be discreet.” She — Pete Born and Julie Naughton is not as optimistic about the men’s business however, and expects it to be flat. On the oil house side, the outlook is a bit more cautious. “The environment is Andrea very challenging,” said Richard Goldstein, chairman and ceo of International Jung Flavors & Fragrances. “There is not a major economy in the world that is strong.” Jane Lauder He noted that it is a struggle to find growth, and he doesn’t expect to see any this year, but has hopes that 2004 will be better. “I think there are signs now that the business is picking up and I’m hoping that will transfer into a comeback for the fall,” said Patrick Firmenich, chief executive Christopher officer of Firmenich SA, who acknowledged he thinks the business can turn around. Brosius His note of hope was supported by executive recruiter Rene Plessner, who said he Harvey Fierstein senses that companies are beginning to hire talent at the higher levels to inject some and Eva LaRue new blood into an aging management structure. The budget cutters have sliced down to the meat of their organization. “There’s nobody left to blame,” Plessner said. “if the results are not what management expects, then they have to change management.” “My vision [of fall] is foggy — very short term,” said Michel Mane, president of Mane USA. However, in that short term, there is optimism. “It’s been a lot more pos- itive than what we’ve been experiencing. We have to do what we believe in — and explore territories where brands don’t emotionally connect.” He said one of these areas is connecting with consumers who are driven by inner-directed values such as sustainable development, humanitarianism and environmentally sound practices. — Kristin Finn and Julie Naughton, Demi Thoman Maureen Case Marc with contributions from Pete Born and Matthew W. Evans Joe Horowitz and Kathy Cullin and Bobbi Brown Rosen THE BIGGEST BEAUTY ISSUE OF 2003

COMING THIS OCTOBER Don’t miss out on the ultimate guide from the beauty expert. Call Nancy Berger, Vice President and Publisher at 212.286.7254 or e-mail [email protected]. Space close: August 1

© 2003 The Condé Nast Publications Inc. 18 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 T what caused the split. But sources suggest a difference a suggest sources But split. the caused what announcement couldcomewithinthenexttwoweeks. an said He brands. the of development further fund help would who investors attract to was goal the said Henning Me. C and She She Caboodles, include which brands, Cosmetics Caboodles the for buyers seeking been has Molding Plano 30, said Henning. located, are operations facturing manu- and marketing where umbia, Col- Westminister, British New in based be to continue will shoot under theCaboodlesname. kits boxesand cosmetics makes which Ill., Plano, of Company ing Mold- Plano the of Division Caboodles of officer executive chief and president Henning, Peter to according Gamble, & Procter and Maybelline with tions SchofieldinMay.following thedepartureofGary Cosmetics, Caboodles for officer executive chief tional YORK— NEW Caboodles Names Interim CEO House of Taylor to Cosmetics Launch we are trying to do the same for cosmetics, since we own these own we since cosmetics, for same the do to trying are we and brands, mass than better doing is mass at business grance October.in ship will products The $12.50. for powder pressed and $5.50, for polish nail $9; Reade. Duane for manager ry Bentley,catego- Marti said packaging,” fragrance the adapted silver — perimeter.the packaging around crusted” “diamond are pacts the of com- powder pressed The crystals. diamond-like attractiveness with adorned the on mented week. this earlier meeting Stores Marketplace Drug Chain of Association TaylorNational the at Elizabeth line metics called cos- sparkling the collection unveiled representatives Arden cosmetics Cosmetics. a with chise fran- the extending is Arden, Elizabeth parent its Now ments. depart- fragrance market mass of star shining the is Diamonds — YORK NEW Sears Presents Cosmetics in Trial Format h los o t gt oe f or errands your of enjoy- an offering while place one in more done get to you allows Sears site tells viewers: “This unique store lot.” parking own “its with tion also It of.” off-mallthe loca- of convenience the out touts and in get to easy is that store Sears freestanding “new a as Grand two. remaining fol- the for selected been not have Sites Vegas. suburb Las in Chicago unit a by a lowed Ill., Gurnee, slated for is store second The 2005. by built environment.” competitive robust very a in this piloting Kohl’s,” a and be to going are we Wal-Mart“So Blake. commented a near very is Wal-Martneighborhood. a in ground breaking be to happens stores but directly, issue coyly noted that the first of five Sears Grand me-too the to not respond did Blake, Linda spokeswoman Sears Wal-Mart. to comparisons drawing already is sites, off-mall at found be only will which L Revlon, including traditional mass of market beauty and health care brands array an present will it ter, cen- garden a and groceries dry of duction intro- the with along September, in Utah, foot Sears Grand pilot store in West Jordan, that and — beauty. format includes your eyeing is Sears NEW YORK — Both Henning and Schofield declined to discuss to declined Schofield and Henning Both May on WWD in reported first As off- Cosmetics Caboodles The posi- held previously has Memphis, in based Beech, e Wa w’e on i ta te rsie oto o te fra- the of portion prestige the that is found we’ve “What of retails suggested at gloss, lip and lipstick include Items they how liked I and beautiful really are cosmetics “The com- who retailers of attention the caught cosmetics The tiig t a-ats sec, the essence, Wal-Mart’s at Striking Sears describes Sears Website, its On In all, the five stores are expected to be “Interesting enough is that the first one Grand, Sears of format big-box the And 210,000-square- its opens Sears When B e a u As a longtime bestseller, Elizabeth TaylorWhite Elizabeth bestseller, longtime a As t Charles Beech has been tapped as transi- as tapped been has Beech Charles Don’t look now Wal-Mart, but y R ’Oréal and Maybelline. and ’Oréal e p o r t

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Jack of president vice executive Dalton, Emily said women,” for alternatives shaving other and be- this difference tween the see really can you this, experience you once that believe “We mailers. on and individually tributed dis- be will product each spas. of samples and 50,000 stores Approximately specialty 300 about in as well as doors, sales ofabout$1millionbyyearend. generate could Girl Jack’s estimate sources industry ment, tube blue with apinkdiamond-shapedlabel. shiny a is Design, Lukasiewicz by designed was which packaging, The Dandurand. noted personality,” own its has that cousin or sister the be could it like look to it ed niscent ofthemen’s line,butwithitsownappeal.“We want- the is feels company the perfect accessorytoshowoffone’s legs. which ring, toe a as well as ucts, prod- full-sized both contains and $29 for retails Set Luxury Shave Legs Sexy The extract. ginger and grapefruit orange, and E, and C A, vitamins extract; heather extract; fruit glycerin; apple and acid hyaluronic butter; natural shea a contains It skin glow. give to designed moisturizer light a is Lotion Moisture Shimmering Gloss Body eucalyptus. and permint pep- heather,glycerin, natural oil, jojoba and nut macadamia as such moisturizers and oils surfactant-free natural combines is and It treatment. body a as well shave as conditioning a treatment, both be to formulated is tube, 4-oz. a story, page20. 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Chups Chupa and Resorts Med Club from ranging favorites culture pop with along Olsen, Ashley and Mary-Kate twins and Dion Celine Lopez, Jennifer celebrities with tie-ins in resulted ready lifestyle brands.”Cotyexecs couldnotbereached. to innovation and technology new bring to commitment continued Coty’s demonstrates further brand Lycra the and DTI with relationship new “Our said, Inc., Coty of plications, referringthosequestionstoCotyofficials. ap- cosmetics into incorporated be would technology Lycra-related how discuss to declined he But said. he product,” superior a provides that technology a be to name. “Thereissomethingbehindthename,therehas brand Lycra the of licensing a than more to amounted deal the said Interiors, & Textiles DuPont based such asmembranes,forapplicationslikemedicalgloves. The spandexpolymeralsocanbemadeintootherforms, recovery. and stretch of properties the add to amounts small in clothing in used fiber synthetic the spandex, Terms werenotdisclosed. applications. cosmetics for brand Lycra its of use exclusive for Interiors & Textiles DuPont with deal horizons. NEW YORK — Coty Signs Deal With Lycra aks il il ae t dbt n uy n l Nordstrom all in July in debut its make will Girl Jack’s com- to declined company the from executives While remi- be to packaging the wanted founders brand’s The for $14 for retails which Cream, Shave Luxury Silk Shave brand the of origin “The The companies said specific product plans will be will plans product specific said companies The al- has brands “lifestyle” develop to course Coty’s officer executive chief Beetz, Bernd statement, a In Del.- Wilmington, of president McCracken, Steve of brand DuPont’s Del.-based Wilmington, is Lycra licensing a announced company Thursday,the On Behind every Behind Coty isreallystretchingitscosmetics — Scott Malone and L.K. Jack’s Girlofferings. — Kristin Kristin Finn —

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 19 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 Donna Karan Rite Aid Corp. has filed a MAC Cosmetics was Thinking that women wanted lawsuit against two former employees and a third individual accusing them of wrongdoing in connection with a $6 million fraud scheme during the late Nineties. Court papers were not immediately available, but a published report said the lawsuit was filed in a Pennsylvania county court and charged the two former Rite Aid employees with authorizing payments to an entity that would state recover overpayments on New York taxes paid by Rite Aid. The drugstore chain never recovered the tax payments. September. As reported, Lancôme will September. sponsor the event, which will be held Sept. 10-14, for the last time this year. MAC HONORS: honored Saturday evening in Los Angeles as part an event called “Twenty Heroes,” which was held Twenty Years, by AIDS Project Los Angeles and cited 20 individuals and companies, Ford and Gucci, for their including Tom contributions to local AIDS Charities. hosted president, John Demsey, MAC’s a table that included actress Elizabeth Can” fame, Banks of “Catch Me If You and the company was congratulated for donating $30 million to various AIDS charities over the years. It has raised Glam this sum with its four Viva lipsticks over a 10-year period. SHIMMER: HOLIDAY introduced the latest elements to join the Cashmere Mist Bath and Body Collection. The items, called aromatic body products, which are Silver-Shimmer available in spray or powder versions, are a 2003 holiday limited-edition offering. They will be available nationwide at select specialty and department stores beginning in October 2003. MISTER CLEAN: to smell just plain fresh, two Canadian entrepreneurs got together and launched a scent that features Clean earlier this year, the duo, Randi Shinder, hints of soap. Now, the creative force, and Alexandra Zanella, the business mind, have lathered up something for men in Clean Men. Says Zanella: “It is an uncomplicated fragrance in a complicated world.” A 2.14-oz. bottle is priced at $76 on cleanperfume.com. The Henri scents also are available at Jeffrey, Bendel, Fred Segal Apothia, Holt Renfrew, Sephora and others. RITE AID LAWSUIT: Neutrogena, for example, advertises in several teen pub- lications, but doesn’t try to segment its items as only being for teens. Candy Corner also avoids marketing just the latest “Teens componentry. and older women like us because we give them the taste of candy president of Lotta Luv. without said Steph Fogelson, guilt,” Steven Shweky and Steph Fogelson at Lotta Luv, the most at Lotta Luv, and Steph Fogelson Steven Shweky “buzzworthy” line. Zirh International Lancôme has teamed Michael Feuling has Annette Green, Dorothy Fix has been named looking for innovative ways to drive business, and we are excited to have the Brow Zone at Bloomingdale’s.” GIVENCHY MOVE: been appointed general manager of Parfums Givenchy Canada Ltd. Feuling’s new duties will include directing all promotional marketing, sales and distribution for Parfums Givenchy in Canada. He will report to Gilles Dougoud, general manager of Parfums Givenchy Inc. BOSCOV’S FIX: vice president of cosmetics for Boscov’s. Fix, a beauty industry veteran of more than 20 years, was most recently merchandise has manager of cosmetics. Boscov’s credited her with “redefining” its cosmetics and fragrance assortments during her 10 years with the retailer. ZIRH APPOINTMENTS: has named Nicholas Ratut executive vice president and chief operating Zirh also announced the officer. appointment of Purvi Desai to brand fragrance manager of the John Varvatos collection, handled under Zirh. GREEN’S TEAM: President Emeritus of The Fragrance Foundation, was elected chairperson by the Board of Directors of the Woman’s Project and Productions. THE ART OF GOLF: up with French artists Pierre and Gilles to Lancôme golf advertise the 34th Trophee and tournament. Pierre, a photographer, a collaborated to create Gilles, a painter, visual featuring a seminude Elizabeth Jagger surrounded by roses and holding a golf ball. Ads will begin appearing in French publications in July and will be followed by a poster campaign in Lana Vucetic, Nancy Feldman and and Lana Nancy Feldman Vucetic, Dalia Chammas at Bloomingdale’s. However, they However, did like the idea claim to be marketed to them. claim to be marketed to them. of a sticker or a table where items could be flagged by a teen publica- tion as being popular with kids under 20. Clean, organized and well-illuminated stores were men- For Lancôme, the More than 2,000 All six agreed that drug chains shouldn’t segregate a vote for club Voicing cards, the six teens said they Other beauty items selected by the teens included The teen category appears to be cooling off at drug Prior to highlighting their picks, the teens discussed Dale Earnhardt Jr. at Dale Earnhardt Jr. Carson Pirie Scott. TOP NOTES RACING AROUND: BROWSING AROUND: 59th eyes have it at Bloomingdale’s Street flagship. The brand unveiled its The first second Brow Station Wednesday. South Coast Plaza opened at Macy West’s door last fall. “The Brow Zone at Lancôme offers our customers another reason to said Nancy shop at Bloomingdale’s,” Feldman, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics and “Not only is fragrances at Bloomingdale’s. this unique concept reasonably priced at $15, it also invites the customers to return on a consistent basis to see new makeup and treatment products as well as replenish existing ones. Lancôme always continues to be a great partner, consumers made a pit stop at Carson last week State Street store Pirie Scott’s spokesman for when Dale Earnhardt Jr., made an appearance Drakkar Noir, promoting the fragrance. “This was the largest personal appearance we’ve ever had — it exceeded all of our expectations,” said Nancy Schmidt, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for Carson Pirie Scott, who added that the first people in line began arriving before 6 a.m. While she didn’t reveal numbers, she noted that it “far exceeded” previous personal appearance sales records for the chain. “We’ve always had a very strong Drakkar Noir always been in our top business — it’s five — but Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s association with the brand is giving it incredible added sales,” Schmidt said. The scent launched in 1984. teen items. try“Don’t too hard,” suggested one panelist. “Teens don’t want to be labeled teens,” said A another. handful of chains have tried “teen sections” that they have abandoned because teens don’t want items that weren’t aware of drug chains doing much with fre- quent shopper cards, but they would like them. However, they said the cards should not be just keted to teen customers. mar- ColorStay lip, Crest Night Effects, Neutrogena Shimmer Sheers, John Sheer Frieda Blonde Hair Repair and Got2Be hair gel. chains, according to some retailers. However, retailers and marketers who quietly target teens are faring well. what appeals to them and what doesn’t when it comes to shopping drug stores. tioned as important to this market segment. “It also helps to have a young sales staff who can help us,” pleaded one of the panelists. The teens also said they like sharp prices since they are often spending their own money. Adding music, they said, would also en- hance the drug store experience. CriticalMass Brookman Faye By — Brid Costello Brid — Amor Amor fragrance.

Although the teen market has been diffi- Although the Parfums Parfums Cacharel

Amor Amor, Amor the Amor, latest fra- “The idea [behind the scent] Amor Amor will be intro- “Gloria is seductive because women have a sense To illustrate the new fragrance’s precocious ele- Created by the Air Paris agency under the direc- refused to comment on projec- executives L’Oréal The scent, concocted by Laurent Bruyère and The fragrance features musky woody notes, includ- The flacon and its metallic silver-and-red outer The eau de toilette comes in 30-, 50- and 100-ml. ver- Prices are converted from the euro. Amor Amor will bow in many European countries The best skin care was awarded to Xcelance Body The teens liked the tasty beauty treats because they A panel of teenage trend spotters had little trouble Teen People brought the Calif.-based teens to the Caboodles, a leading brand marketed to tweens and has love on its mind. grance for women from the brand, L’Oréal-owned is set to bow this fall. While the scent features a floral juice — like Cacharel’s six other women’s fragrances — Amor Amor is not meant for shrinking violets. is passionate romanticism,” ex- plained Thomas Perrot, inter- national group manager. duced 18 months after the launch of Gloria, a women’s scent, which also depart- ed from Cacharel’s traditional theme of youth’s inno- cent tenderness. The latest scent, which targets the set, is meant to be provocative. 18- to 30-year-old of pleasure for themselves first,” said Perrot. “Amor Amor seduces men directly.” ment, advertising for Amor Amor features a couple in a passionate kiss. the Tran, ads feature repeated tion images of Tho Van of models Delfine Bafort and Single Kelly Rippy. and double pages will break at launch time as will 30-sec- ond TV and movie spots. In the film campaign, created also by Air Paris, Bafort pulls the coil of wire, which is wrapped around the spray device of the Amor Amor bottle, and tosses a flacon at Rippy. The bottle is transformed into a rose, which explodes and releases a shower of petals over the kissing couple. sources estimate tions, it however, could do $40 mil- lion in wholesale volume its first year. Dominique Ropion of International Flavors and is a sparkling fruity floral. Fragrances, sandalwood, musks ing as and cedar, well gray amber, as fruity notes like grapefruit, orange and Sicilian mandarin. there Additionally, are melati — an Indonesian jasmine. packaging were designed in house. sions that will sell for $35, $50.50 and $75, respectively. and travel Latin retail America in and October. markets region will get the scent in 2004. in the Asia-Pacific PARIS PARIS — Cacharel Is In the Mood the In Is Cacharel emulate popular sweets in the form of lip glosses that don’t add calories. The firm’s Candy Corner and Bake Shoppe are featured in mall-based stores such as Limited Too and in chain drug stores including Walgreen’s. Fizz Fizz Gel, a company based “It in fizzes France. then cools your skin,” explained one of the panelists in praise of the gel. Lotta Luv Candy Corner Products, a line based popular on candy and baked goods won not only for the cos- buzzworthy line, as well. but as the hottest metic category, cult for chain drug stores to tap, the channel certainly shoppers want. has items young finding products they thought were hot at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores meeting that was held here Sunday through Wednesday. massive trade show where they they scoured the aisles for products liked in 10 categories ranging from food to beauty. They also selected the hottest “buzzworthy” product on the floor. Among the categories were best packaging, hottest cos- and hottest skin care. metics, hottest hair product teens took honors for packaging. Color Temporary Smash Haircolor, housed in a paint can, won for best hair product against dozens of contenders. The cans of hair color are available in temporary and semi- to the company. permanent formulas, according Teen Picks: Fizz Gel, Hair Paint and Candy and Paint Hair Gel, Fizz Picks: Teen SAN DIEGO — 20 The HBA Report LuxePack Comes to New York SNIPPETS

MORE WELLA SHARES: Procter & Gamble, in the midst of its mandatory extended two-week offer period expiring

WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY, June 20, has scooped up another 10 percent of Wella’s shares, bringing its holdings to 60 percent of the German firm’s share capital. As reported, P&G already has control of Wella from family shareholders. According to an overseas report, P&G’s chief financial officer, Clayton Daley, told Wella shareholders — primarily a minority group of stakeholders who own preferred shares and are hoping for a higher bid — not to expect a better offer than what’s already on the table.

PARTY ALL NIGHT: Matrix hosted a Tony party for the entire cast and crew of the musical, “Hairspray,” last Tony winner Marissa Jaret Winokur. Sunday night at Manhattan’s Bryant A look at the showroom floor at LuxePack. Park Grill. The post-Tony bash was attended by celebrities that included Zac Posen, Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, Alan By Matthew W. Evans Marc Tannenbaum, vice president of marketing Cumming, Bill Maher and comedienne Caroline Rhea, as well as for paperboard producer Meadwestvaco. “Hairspray” castmate Marissa Jaret Winokur, who won Best NEW YORK — This week’s LuxePack New York “Consumers have a category in mind” when they Performance by a Leading Actress in a Musical, and Harvey Fierstein, packaging exposition proved that while trans- walk into a store, “but not often a brand,” said pan- who won Best Performance by a Leading Actor in a Musical. parency may still challenge many in corporate elist Scott Corzine, chief executive of Design- America, the cosmetics packaging industry is 2Launch, an information technology platform using it to its advantage — at least when it comes designed to help automate product development. to showcasing product. “[They] are waiting for the presentation at point of Of all the trends in beauty packaging today, purchase, then they go this way or that way.” transparency, or the use of clear materials to The look of packaging in the mass and class Classic Shave Line Hits U.S. make product highly visible at point of purchase, arenas, which historically has been quite differ- was foremost on the minds of many of the 38 ent, is growing similar, according to Paul Truefitt & Hill products. exhibitors at LuxePack New York, a first-time ver- DeBiasse, vice president of sales for Heinz Glas sion of the established Monaco show of the same USA Inc. With improvements in mass market name. Organizers said 778 industry professionals packaging, “high end and mass are meeting,” said attended the New York show, which took place DeBiasse, “and it’s being called ‘masstige.’” Tuesday and Wednesday. The injection of transparent acrylic to create “There’s a trend toward allowing customers to packaging is a recent breakthrough in the fra- see products,” said Jennifer Chouraqui, principal grance realm, according to Pierre-Yves Azuelos, of Raffypack, the U.S. arm of general manager of Dapy Paris, France-based Ileos Group’s fold- which sells secondary packaging ing carton division, Alliora. for gift sets. The big hurdle had Raffypack will soon be known as been preventing cracking in the Alliora, an initiative by parent acrylic, he said, which is caused Ileos to bring its folding carton by alcohol and other ingredients and set box operations under one in fragrance’s juice. “Nobody NEW YORK — Truefitt & Hill always did appeal to the upper crust, what name. Earlier this year Alliora could master acrylic injection for with a client list that boasts King George III, Winston Churchill, and assumed packaging rights for the fragrance [without breakdown]” Frank Sinatra. And it seems the 200-year-old luxury grooming line has- DKNY line of fragrances, which he said. Azuelos claimed a n’t lost its touch. means it’s now manufacturing patented process by Dapy Paris Last June the London-based upscale shave company caught the secondary packaging — the fold- has succeeded in doing just that. eye of two Harvard Business School graduates, Guy Cartwright and ing carton and polyethelyne The process, which involves tem- Heath Flock, both of whom saw so much potential in the brand that terephthalate sliding sheath — perature variations, was applied they bought the licensing and marketing rights for Truefitt & Hill in for the fragrances. to packaging for Roberto Verino’s North America. “Marketers spend a lot on pri- fragrance, “VV,” which launched The deal, which has been in negotiations since last June, was signed mary packaging,” said Patrick in Spain earlier this year. off in January for an undisclosed amount. McGee, marketing manager for TechPack, which produces Now, Cartwright, the company’s president and chief executive, and AGI Klearfold, “but if you’re put- packaging mainly for cosmetics Flock, its vice president and chief operating officer, are visiting high-end ting it in paperboard and cus- Panelist Ed Burstell of Henri Bendel. but also for fragrance, skin care retailers to see how Truefitt & Hill’s array of cologne, aftershave, shav- tomers can’t see it, it [negates] and hair care, is shifting its strat- ing cream, bath and shower gel, shampoo and accessories will fit into all the effort put into the primary package.” AGI egy to focus more on the fragrance portion of its the product mix. Stores on their hit list include Saks Fifth Avenue, Klearfold makes both plastic and paperboard business, specifically in the area of closures, or Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale’s. Products packaging and has clients such as Stila Cosmetics lids. “That’s something we really want to focus on will retail between $15 for shampoo and $60 for cologne. and Linda Cantello. in the future,” said Jean-Charles Forster, interna- Truefitt & Hill North America, based in Chicago, generates less than $1 Another trend cited by both Alliora’s tional sales manager. “We feel it’s an untapped million in sales here, with a nationwide distribution base that includes five Chouraqui and AGI Klearfold’s McGee is a wider market in the U.S.” As a start, TechPack did the Nordstrom stores and nearly 40 boutiques. Two Truefitt & Hill barber shops, use of plastics by both prestige and mass beauty transparent-by-design Gucci Eau de Parfum clo- in Chicago and in Toronto, also receive products. Each shop comes marketers. The trend is also affecting other sec- sure. The transparent top is actually two “bi-inject- equipped with antique barber chairs and a service list that includes a Royal tors that have traditionally used paperboard — ed” pieces of plastic that seamlessly fit together, Shave ($45), a hair cut ($45), manicures, pedicures and steam facials. namely, the boxes used by toothpaste marketers. Forster noted, giving the lid a snap-on fit. Cartwright and Flock do not own the North America stores, nor the For instance, GlaxoSmithKline went the more Transparency has even entered the sampling London-based barber shop flagship, which was established in 1805. But expensive route of a plastic box to differentiate arena, as Arcade Marketing’s vice president of their purchase agreement gives them the right to own and operate future items in its Aquafresh brand, a move from which sales, Mary S. Weiser, pointed out. Weiser show- stores in North America. beauty marketers can learn, observers noted. cased Arcade’s clear window packets, which Cartwright believes he can grow the Truefitt & Hill business at least One proponent of differentiation via packaging allow consumers to judge foundation shades 30 percent in 2004. is Mitchell S. Kaneff, chief executive officer of before snapping up the single-application units. The U.S. men’s toiletries market, according to London-based data Arkay Packaging Corporation. During a panel The technology is called Liqi-Seal, which is new tracker DataMonitor, is estimated to reach $4.4 billion by 2004 with an called “Design: The New Currency” — one of two this year and Mary Kay is at least one cosmetics annual rate of growth at 3.4 percent. Cartwright, however, is focused on panels during the show — Kaneff cited research marketer to have signed on. Weiser said that the prestige market, a fraction of that number, but one with a 10 to 20 indicating that as many as 30,000 products fight for sample sizes have translated into trial-by-pur- percent growth rate, according to his data estimates. the attention of a consumer on an average shop- chase items at entry-level price points of Cartwright is well aware of the competition he faces, especially by the ping trip. Often, products have only one-sixth of a between $4 and $5. “What used to be a sample is growing number of prestige shave brands surfacing such as Jack Black, second to connect with a consumer, he said. Two- now a product sold,” she said, citing a fragrance E Shave, and, most notably, The Art of Shaving, a company that gener- thirds of products are not noticed at all, he added, and lotion trial set the company produced for ates nearly $8 million in sales and operates four stores — each of which and 75 percent of all buying decisions are made at Banana Republic. perform shave services and offers a large array of upscale shave acces- point of purchase despite television and print Pierre-Yves Maisonneuve, president and chief sories and products. advertising. “Packaging is the product at point of executive of LuxePack Monaco, plans to make New But a recent meeting with Art of Shaving executives yielded an agree- purchase,” Kaneff emphasized, “and [packaging] York an annual event. Next year, it will be held on ment: The market is growing in products and shops and there is room for design has to sell that product.” June 8 and 9, again right after the FiFi’s, a strategy a number of prestige players. Combining tones like white and blue can “add with a practical side — to catch “high-level people” — Andrea M.G. Nagel vibrancy and stand out in mass,” according to while they are in town, Maisonneuve said. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTOS

21 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 TSE Tsesay TSE Don’t play sports but still want to look athletic and cool? Well, TSE and Tsesay athletic and cool? Well, play sports but still want to look Don’t Don’t play sports but still want to look athletic and cool? Well, TSE and Tsesay athletic and cool? Well, play sports but still want to look Don’t

Tsesay Tse Tse Tse Tse Tse

NEW YORK — NEW YORK classic some great options for resort. He’s transforming designer Richard Chai is offering and ski sweaters — into thermal minidresses and lean silhouettes — such as hoodies best known for its knits, has certainly cardigans, often shapes. The company, with super-fitted at the considerably more woven pieces. And, according to sources evolved this season, adding some Tsesay boutiques. Let’s hope so. firm, there’s even talk of opening Tse Tse Tse Tse Tse NEW YORK — NEW YORK classic some great options for resort. He’s transforming designer Richard Chai is offering and ski sweaters — into thermal minidresses and lean silhouettes — such as hoodies best known for its knits, has certainly cardigans, often shapes. The company, with super-fitted at the considerably more woven pieces. And, according to sources evolved this season, adding some Tsesay boutiques. Let’s hope so. firm, there’s even talk of opening 22 Development’s rayon and silk satin dress. Robert Lee Morris cuff; David Yurman lariat and ring. WWD, FRIDAY JUNE 13, 2003

TThehe Girl Is Back SSISTANT: YI GUO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE ANTONIA BY STYLED GUO; YI SSISTANT: PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; HAIR BY LEONDRA CREW AT D.D. PAIGE’S AGENCY; MAKEUP BY ROXANNA FLOYD AT ILLUSIONS MANAGEMENT; FASHION A FASHION MANAGEMENT; ILLUSIONS AT FLOYD ROXANNA BY MAKEUP AGENCY; PAIGE’S D.D. AT CREW LEONDRA BY HAIR MITRA; ROBERT BY PHOTOS 23

Poleci’s rabbit-fur Betseyville’s cotton and FRIDAY,WWD, 2003 13, JUNE coat and Alvin Valley’s spandex denim coat and beaded silk chiffon cotton and spandex mini, dress. Christian by Betsey Johnson. Louboutin shoes; Robert Lee Morris earrings; David Yurman ring and bracelet.

NEW YORK — It’s been a while, but she’s back. happy times and difficult times. My album expresses so much of what I have become.” We last heard from Monica in 1998 when her album, “The Boy Is Mine,” won her a Monica collaborated with some of the best in the business to create the new R&B Grammy Award and megastar status. At just 17, she became the youngest artist ever to and hip-hop sounds. Missy Elliot was the executive producer on the album, which have a number-one hit in the U.S. with the title track, “The Boy Is Mine,” which she features songs by DMX and Tyrese. famously sang with Brandy as a duet. The song spent 13 weeks at the top of the Of Missy Elliot, she says: “It was so easy to work with Missy. She’s a great friend of Billboard 100, and in the process became the all-time, number-one female duet in mine, and we really became close around the rough spots. She really understood U.S. chart history. what I was going through, and she helped me to bring that out in the music.” So, with her new CD, “After the Storm,” hitting stores on Tuesday, Monica, now 22, As for collaborating with Brandy again, Monica notes that there are no plans at the has a lot to live up to. She was previously with Arista, but this will be her first produc- moment. “I just flew back from L.A. to Atlanta with Brandy and we spoke about a tour, tion with Clive Davis’ J Records. but her album doesn’t come out until November,” she explains. “It’s so close to coming out,” Monica says, “I can’t think about it.” She shouldn’t Currently, Monica is busy promoting “After the Storm.” She is scheduled to guest co- have much to worry about. Her first single off the record, “So Gone,” is currently host “The View” and perform live on CBS’ “The Early Show.” So what’s a girl to wear? number one on the Billboard R&B chart. “I love the classics,” she said, referring to designs by Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Monica calls her latest offering a “record of empowerment” and a reflection on re- She says she would like to team up with Karl Lagerfeld to design a sports line. cent hardships in her life. In a three-month span in 2000, her boyfriend committed “He was so kind to me at the Chanel show and I am such a Chanel fan, so I think it suicide, her grandmother passed away and her 25-year-old cousin died of a brain would be great,” she says. “I have such respect for those designers who can create the aneurism. The CD’s title, “After the Storm,” is appropriate. things that never go out of style.” “I was spending a lot of time with my family,” she says. “I experienced a lot of — Julee Greenberg 24 One Day a Week WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 WWD, FRIDAY,

A coat from Eley Kishimoto’s spring collection; Kinnemont looks like a living room; a reproduction of Elvis’ jungle chair. Below left: An unusual display for shoes; the low-key hair salon. LONDON — An unlisted phone number, inconspicuous find,” added Lamden somewhat disingenuously. “The The 1,000-square-foot store includes a hair salon, residential location and limited hours of operation may shop was set up foremost as a showroom for our de- Matthew at Kinnemont, where regulars include “success- seem like a strange way to run a retailer, but when it signs, not really as a business.” ful arts and media clients.” comes to Kinnemont, a boutique that’s open only on Even with no advertising, Kinnemont has built a fol- Ogden’s boyfriend, Steven Male, furnishes the shop Saturdays, the quirkier the better. lowing through word-of-mouth. “We have regular pil- with a diverse selection of pre- and post-World War II The shop, at 26 Chilworth Street, is owned by design- grimages from as far as Japan,” said Lamden. objects scoured from markets worldwide. On a recent ers Sherald Lamden and John Tsiattalou. It is on the The store is definitely a destination, but on warm visit, there was a 1930s hospital bed, a used stove, a den- first floor of a Victorian house in West London’s summer days when the door is open and the retail life tist’s side cabinet and film studio lights. The rule of Bayswater area, where it sits amid a row of similar within is visible to curious passersby, it gets some walk- thumb at Kinnemont is that basically anything that isn’t homes attracting little attention. in traffic. nailed down is for sale. The two designers, who are not a couple, have a histo- The partners introduced their own friends to the “We didn’t want there to be a theme to the shop,” ry of being nonconformists. business. Tsiattalou brought said Lamden, referring to the store’s shabby-chic hodge- Lamden designs the Seraph in Mark Eley of the London- podge effect. “It’s no Moroccan living room.” label, which originally start- based design duo, Eley The most interesting piece on sale is a gigantic, 1970s ed out as Ghost’s diffusion Kishimoto, whose collection wooden throne — an exact replica of Elvis Presley’s line and has been influ- Storefront features fabrics with wallpa- jungle chair from his Graceland home. enced by London’s Asian un- per prints such as lightning Prices are reasonable. A T-shirt from any of the lines derground culture, among other things. Lamden was flashes. Lamden invited both Jessica Ogden and Katie is $49 and dresses and suits by Ogden are around $650. Ghost’s head designer for three years before taking Hillier to sell at the store. Since the store opened, shoes from Tsiattalou’s D.I.D Seraph out on her own. Ogden designs simple feminine skirts and dresses, line have been the bestsellers. They come in women’s Her friendship with Tsiattalou dates back to the while Hillier, who designs accessories for Luella sizes, with a hightop athletic shoe for $107 and a woven Eighties when he was designing the Chatters label and Bartley’s Luella label and collaborated on an acces- brogue for $164. she was his assistant. He sold that company in 1995 to sories collection with London designer Markus Lupfer, In conjunction with the Japanese design team, Graf, found Double Identity, or D.I.D., a men’s wear collection provides bright plastic earrings, cuff bracelets and Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto is planning to launch The with street influences. He bought the house that same beaded belts. Flash Café on the ground floor during London fashion year and installed the D.I.D. operation on the top floor. “They all shared our socialist, utopian ideas,” said week in September. The cafe, which will serve light In 1999, Tsiattalou approached Lamden about mov- Lamden. food, will be covered with Eley Kishimoto’s Gold Flash ing the Seraph design studio into the Kinnemont house Lamden and Tsiattalou get help running the store wallpaper, and will be used for parties and exhibitions. and opening a shop in the building. The store opened from an art student who works in a gallery during the While Kinnemont is officially open only on the following year. week. Saturdays, the owners are not averse to accommodating Both Tsiattalou and Lamden wholesale in Japan to According to Lamden, the name Kinnemont comes special requests. earn a living, selling to stores such as the Journal from an inscription on a ceramic tile on the wall outside “We also get a lot of calls from visitors in the U.S. or Standard in Tokyo. The London shop is a place where the house that was put there by a group of moldmakers Paris wanting to come in,” said Lamden. Usually it’s no they can experiment and have fun. who specialized in decorating around the doors and problem, since she and Tsiattalou work above the shop. “Financially, it’s not an astounding success, but we windows of churches with clay. The group that lived in The trickiest part for would-be customers is finding the sell steadily enough to justify being open,” said Lamden. the house did the mold work for the churches in Maida store’s phone number. “We don’t intend to be intimidating or difficult to Vale, an area of West London near Bayswater. — Ellen Burney PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS TIM BY PHOTOS 25 Beauty Steps Into Fashion Ad Gap FRIDAY,WWD, 2003 13, JUNE By Greg Lindsay only give out advertising information published by the pears five times a year) to combine ad pages and air time. Publishers Information Bureau, which showed the mag- Allure also is using TV as a selling point with the fifth NEW YORK — The advertising tango danced by maga- azine was down 1.9 percent in beauty pages from installment on E! Entertainment of its backstage look at zines and beauty manufacturers took on a new intensity January through May. beauty at the fashion shows, but the only title dedicated when the recession hit, but the second half of 2003 prom- But times have changed from when beauty ads simply to beauty doesn’t exactly need that as a carrot. Pages are ises to be more frenetic still. poured over the transom, especially in the prestige arena. up 7.5 percent in the July and August issues versus a As the publishers of the big women’s magazines After years of listening to publishers explain why prices year ago, and publisher Nancy Berger has set a goal of watch their fashion ads evaporate, they’re looking for have gone up (“They have tripled or quadrupled the con- 200 ad pages for October’s Best of Beauty issue (last year the beauty category to be an oasis — albeit one that isn’t sumer price index,” Lauder said) the manufacturers are had just 135). She reports growth in both the mass and that easy to find. Beauty ad pages and revenues are using their leverage to be picky about which magazines and prestige markets for the issues closed so far this year. As mostly up or, even in the worst cases, flat. As a result, which value-added programs they want to partner with. for events, a recent concert it sponsored in Central Park the category is becoming an ever-larger piece of the ad- Along with perennial favorites like Vogue, Allure, Glamour attracted 1,500 paying customers, who were then also ex- vertising pie. The problem is, the increasingly stingy and Marie Claire, several industry executives were in- posed to beauty treatments by Allure advertisers. beauty industry wishes otherwise. Marie Claire and Jane are both turning But the industry has no other choice. back to the Web this fall to find customers The continued decline in customers at de- for their advertisers. Marie Claire is partment stores, combined with the beauty bringing back the “Haute Card,” a faux industry’s obsession with the new, new credit card with a unique personal identi- thing — i.e. more launches — is forcing fication number that allows access to a manufacturers to dump more money into Web site loaded with special offers from advertising than ever at a time when busi- advertisers. Originally up for just a month ness is worse than ever. last year, Rizzutto promises that this ver- Magazines aren’t reaping all the bene- sion is “on steroids” and will run through fits, though. In the beauty downturn, firms the holidays. At Jane (another WWD sister are reaching out to consumers in as many publication), publisher Eva Dillon plans ways as they can, looking to alternatives to keep rolling contests based on the mag- like television and radio, as well as to mag- azine’s new Web approach, in which azines. Prestige brands especially are feel- would-be entrants must purchase spon- ing the pinch, while the “mass” or “bridge” sors’ products to obtain the Web address manufacturers merrily keep buying ad where they can enter. The first contest, in pages in order to make a splash. Either which the prize was a guest column, col- way, beauty companies now want maga- lected 87,000 responses. The top four zines to help them move the merch instead products purchased for entry were beauty of simply building the aura of a brand. products, Dillon said. “People are just not interested in bells And then there’s Lifetime, the first mag- and whistles,” said Tom Florio, publisher azine in the category to be based on a TV of Vogue. “It’s a lot harder to razzle and network. “I think [the magazine] gives the dazzle them these days.” brand an opportunity to reach advertisers “Good quality in the editorial environ- in multiple media, so that could be inter- ment makes the biggest difference in the esting,” one beauty executive said. world,” said William Lauder, chief operating Publisher Susan Plangeman said beauty officer of Estée Lauder Cos., obviously one of ads comprised about a third of the first the biggest beauty advertisers around. “The two issues, and that its hybrid nature holds next step is, ‘What is it that they’re offering a particular appeal for the Procter & us that makes it worth the customer’s while Gambles of the world. “We most definitely [to go out and buy the product]?’” He added, think cross-platform is going to be a point “There are no new programs I’m hearing of differentiation for us. But we’re taking about that are the be-all and end-all.” baby steps to do it right. I don’t want to go Executives behind mass market brands into the market and build false hopes, say- are apparently more forgiving, however. ing I have the glass slipper right here.” Publishers at magazines as varied as Elle, The respective teen spin-offs of Vogue, WWD’s sister publication, W, Glamour and Elle and Cosmopolitan also are proving to Organic Style report that, while they’re be vital points of differentiation for their trending upward slightly in the third quar- parent brands, both in their ability to act as ter beauty-wise, prestige brands have brand extensions into the teen arena and taken a step back and almost all of the as valuable parts of package deals. Teen growth is driven by the lower end of the Vogue and Ellegirl, are both posting record market. “Prestige brands depend on the numbers every issue — although they are department stores, which are a huge chal- still in their early growth stages — with lenge for them right now,” said Alyce Teen Vogue proving particularly adept at Alston, publisher of W. “These [prestige landing prestige business, thanks to its beauty firms] are companies which aren’t parentage. The magazine has even man- increasing their budgets.” aged to convince three advertisers to pro- But mass advertisers (think shampoos, duce scent strips especially for the maga- skin care and other basics) are pouring in A few of the magazines that have beauty advertisers intrigued. zine’s smaller A5 “European” format. enough business by themselves to help Cosmogirl, meanwhile, is scooping up mass make up shortfalls in other categories. trigued by the promise of synergy between Hearst’s new brand business similar to its parent’s. Elle Group publishing director Carol Smith reported Lifetime magazine and its parent cable channel. All And if any magazine stumbles in delivering cus- her flagship title will be flat in the third quarter, with vouched for the desirability of multimedia deals in general. tomers, there are plenty waiting in the wings. Now that beauty ads picking up a few percentage points in the At stake are the ad dollars for a bevy of fall launches, the core books have faced the challenge posed by the overall mix. This effect is even more extreme over at including Estée Lauder’s Beyond Paradise, Armani’s “new lifestyle” titles like Martha Stewart Living, Real Marie Claire, which began 2003 with beauty ads com- Sensei, Ralph Lauren’s yet-to-be-named women’s fra- Simple and O: The Oprah Magazine, a new batch of con- prising just over a third of the magazine’s total and will grance, Givenchy’s Very Irresistible, Liz Claiborne’s tenders is emerging in magazines like Lifetime, the re- likely finish with close to half (36 percent in January Spark and Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Jeans. vamped Ladies Home Journal and Rodale’s Organic versus a projected 45 percent at the end of the year). Vogue’s Florio won’t talk about numbers or specific ac- Style, all of which are gearing up to fight for increased The magazine will be flat in advertising through July, counts (“I don’t see any reason in letting my competitors beauty business. publisher Katherine Rizzuto said, and down in August read about them”) but claimed that Vogue has taken over “You have a lot of titles coming into the market right before rebounding in the fall. the top spot in market share in beauty versus its competi- now,” said LHJ publisher Lynn Lehmkuhl, who projects Meanwhile, at Hearst flagship Harper’s Bazaar, new tive set — Elle, W, Harper’s Bazaar and In Style. Florio her own title’s beauty pages will rise 25 percent in the publisher Valerie Salembier, who took over in February, also keeps his magazine’s value-add programs under second half. “I believe there are books being created explained that she is not up to speed on the magazine’s wraps, but would say he’s trying to use the magazine’s net- with the plan to support them practically with beauty various programs to discuss them at length, and would work-syndicated “Trendwatch” TV program (which ap- pages alone. It’s an unbelievable feeding frenzy.”

has now left with her while her deputy Melisa column will be discontinued after the column’s persona might suggest. “Everyone Coburn remains. Prior to Carter’s arrival, Cachet magazine’s It List issue in three weeks, despite there was super-nice to me, at least to my underwent several unsuccessful test issues and his being named one of the best columnists in face,” responded Stein. — G. L. MEMO PAD shed blue-chip editorial consultants Susan the business by the Chicago Tribune. “It was Wyland (Real Simple) and Suzanne Slesin the shortest reign of a best columnist REMEMBERING ART: Condé Nast’s memorial LOSING CACHET: Betsy Carter is the latest high- (HomeStyle) before finally getting off the ever…negative-two days. But I went out on service for late GQ editor Art Cooper will take profile editor to leave Cachet, the troubled ground as an upscale newspaper supplement top. Or I went out before I was on top,” Stein place June 18 in Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully shelter title that tries to squeeze the soul of this spring. Cachet president Peter Hagen could said in an interview. He'll be replaced on the Hall. The service starts at 11 a.m. In lieu of Real Simple into Parade’s body. Carter arrived not be reached for comment. — Greg Lindsay back page by the magazine’s 10 Stupid flowers, the company has asked that at Cachet just three months ago with her art Questions feature, in which writers ask contributions be made to one of Cooper’s director and deputy from her last gig — the END PAGE: Joel Stein was too snarky for Time, celebrities, you guessed it, stupid questions. favorite charities, The Committee to Protect AARP's My Generation, which folded last but it seems he wasn’t snarky enough for One source close to the magazine said Stein Journalists, at 330 7th Ave., 12th Fl., N.Y., summer — and her art director, Jennifer Gilman, Entertainment Weekly. Stein’s back page can be as difficult and self-aggrandizing as his N.Y. 10001. — G. L. WWDThe TeenBEAUTYBIZ Issue

Let retail decision makers understand how to market, merchandise, and position your brand to the generation known for their fickle and fast changing minds, and the most material purchasing power. August Beauty Biz The Teen Issue A Special Section: What’s Hot for Back-to-School

Close: July 15

• Bonus distribution to teen specialty stores. Major • Gift bag to teen magazine beauty editors. • What’s Hot for Back-to-School reprints with Impact WWD Sounds of Style issue to customers at top music stores in NY and LA. ILLUSTRATION BY D. ILLUSTRATION HORII For more information, call Sarah Murphy, Publisher WWD Beauty Biz, at 212/630-4656 or your WWD sales representative. WWDBEAUTYBIZ WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 13, 2003 - 27 r .** y ence ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Sales Reps * Earth Speaks Sophisticated Natural Fiberhas key Cloth territories Mf tial avail. Great for $TIQUE STRONG poten- FOLLOWING. SPECIALTY Tel: 845.687.4441 Fax: 845.687.4598 [email protected] / BOU- TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? and stores

can gener- Box#M 1082 New York, NY 10001 c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl 852-2270-2286 RETAIL ALSO Road Sales Executive JUNIOR & MISSY ROAD SALES SWEATER & KNITWEAR & knowledge ofwith regional regional Sales shows. Repsmust. Please send resume to: & Must Specialty have Stores. Travel strong to contacts shows a Major Better Sportswearto Company manage, seeks seasoned motiveroad professional force. and Must maximize have the minimum of efforts 10 of years industry its experi national & chain stores, and ate immediate sales. Delivery national accounts a plus.office Please in call Hongor Kevin Kong: E-mail Lai’s yourKevin_Lai@essence-knitting.com.hk resume, cover letter to: Essence Knitting &Ltd., Garment one of Factory Sweater manufacturing Asia’s businesses leadingexisting with Knitwear major / Asia, department Europe andAmerica, stores the was United in founded Stateslooking in of 1977. to WeAmerica are nationwide expand andsalesperson are our seeking who a 10-YEARS MUST business OF have EXPERIENCE in established at contacts least to . s + Corinna y . Fax resume: 215.443.9369 y Fole SALES POSITION Sales Associate Specialty Store Fax resume to: 212-475-5594 Fax Resume to 212-755-0507 SALES DIRECTOR ccess Collection seeks indv w/strong Downtown boutique seeks F/T Sales oin team. Must have min. 5 years in Associate. Candidates w/retail exp. pref Designer Apparel. CASSIN Neckworks, a dynamic &cold est’d women’ weatherCty, accessory PA co. seeksDirector highly in to motivated manageteam, Bucks Sales develop & new growexisting business accts. our & Must expand sales havesory strong dept acces- store, specialtymerchandise store & relationships. mass growth oppt Excellent Growing deluxeA outerwear / Sptwj / sales skills and store relationships to - - / f n y bare spa nn 212-302-2399 nn 212-302-2399 y y y 212-760-0223 Great atmosphere. + Corinna y 212-398-2562 Fole MARKERS DESIGNER TECH SPEC Fax: EMBROIDERY Call Sion at (718) 382-1777 PRODUCTION MANAGER Production Asst. PRIVATE LABEL MERCHANDISER Pls fax resume to (212) 971-2277 Shipping Manager PATTERNMAKER/ completel Fax resume to L Fax resume to L Please fax resume to 212-772-0268 RECEPTIONIST ell established Co. seeks organized, Please fax resume to (212) 328-1281 ith factories, and be responsible for mer. from inception to completion. pparel Mfg seeks Merchandiser/ ith professional appearance & manner. ssistant. Ideal candidate has Bachelor’s Production Assistant Fashion Coordinator/ Receptionist Wanted! approval process &ment packages. Please apply to: preparing develop- Computerized. Relo to Harrisburg,Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc PA. Product Development8-10 yrs personcut exp & for sewgarment Contemporary Knits. construction Missy Fabric a w/ to knowledge must. & directeuropean Ability market, staff.interpret identify trendssew into Shop & commensurate with exp. key domestic knits & item mass cut appeal. and Salary Judith Leiber, LLCw seeks a Receptionist Great benefits &resume to Joan at: regular F/T hours. Fax High-tech spa looking forbeat receptionist. a friendly, up- Fast growingbrand seeks accessories/lifestyle organized and an detail orientedal individu- experienced, to highly service fill position. shippinghave Ideal experience manager/customer candidate workingand will with factors QuickBooks. beoriented proficient A attitude is alsofax in friendly, a resume with must. salary Please (212) 563-6774 (Attn: C. Shore). requirement AP/AR customer to: and W samples. Must be computer literate. Duties include: working with designer/ store/showroom; overseeing contractors; tracking/filling wholesale orders; sourc ing materials. Candidates w/design back ground pref. Fax resume: 212-475-5594 sells, follow-upA w/ factories Central A Experienced onposition, Brooklyn location. Lectra System, F/T Fast growing women’s importspec co seeks techMust forconstruction, be private labelsketching, grading, and spec writing. experienced division. in fitting, garment technical Contemporary women’s line seeksbroidery em- designer fordivision. social Must separates ing have skills excellent andexperience sketch- have with minimumBackground in designer market a plus. 3 embroidery years design. Leading women’s sportswearseeks importer a Fashion Coordinator/Productio A Degree or equivalentMust work be experience. familiarresources with handling from import w India/Nepal, follow-up Production Plannerexp. $50-65K. in Current order fabric, monitor rate o detail individual withexperience minimum to 2 follow yrs. factories, up shipments, with overseas checking specs . t . m 9 EOE M/F paced environ-

nn-ritchie.com nworksintl.com nn at 212-302-239 y g y nn@l Box#M 1083 y 212-564-8279 New York, NY 10001 *MERCHANDISING* W-I-N-S-T-O-N c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl DESIGN*SALES*MERCH (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 EDI/Order Entry *DESIGN*PRODUCTION* of fax resume: 212-302-1161 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 212-686-4336 www.resumesforfashion.com Fax resume to Stephanie in CAD DESIGNER Email L ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION sdaniele@desi Fax resume to: 212-768-7773 or Alan Wolf - Since 1971 Fashion Store for License or Sale. ADMINISTRATIVE FASHION JEWELRY CO. PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. APPAREL STAFFING Please fax resume to (516) 747-8035 ith sweater and collection ork with licensors (Mattel, NFL, dmin Since 1967 Email resume: [email protected] Fax resume to L confidence @ 212-594-1533 or e-mail APPAREL STAFFING Admin. Asst./Receptionist Profitable Business 4 Sale Sales $800M+. R.O.I 30-50%. Reply to: ASSOCIATE DESIGNER See career listings @ www.apparelstaffing.co Admin./Showroom Asst *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* Admin. Asst./Sales Asst Est 23 yrs. Profitable, Florida Designer RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Expanding textile/graphics designdio stu- seeking experienceders proficient CAD in Mac, design- Photoshoplustrator and Il- to joindesigners. our Great team opportunitytive of for individual in to crea- collection design house prints on forgrowth. a our Great daily atmosphere!in illustration a plus. Experience basis. Room for Seeking EXPERIENCED EDIder entry and person. or- able Must to be multi selfexcellent task starter, computer andtion organized and with skills.ment. Company benefits. communica- Warm friendly environ- Immediate opening for aindividual well with organized skills. good Will communication Love maintain ofphone skills a must. Fax resume to: fashion the a showroom. plus. Computer & A Contemporary dresscompany andw seeks sportswear associate designer Bright energeticcommunication skills, personand college with good degree accessories computer importer. great skills Mustlent have needed excel- for organizationduties. Good salary and benefits. skills. Diversified Men’s apparel importerorganized seeks individual detailed w/1-3 yrs.experience. garmen Candidate must havecomputer strong skills (Word/ Excel).able Must to be workment. Fax resume to Human Resources: in a fast F/T -Outlook. Min Busydept 4yrs product seeks exp.w development ORGANIZED Excel, person Word, to (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 background. Mustfast-paced be ableexperience to environment working work with in sampleMust and room. have atin the contemporary market. least have 2 years experience Nick), artists,MAC exp andLONG ISLAND, NY. helpful. overseas Room agents. for growth! S :

to: experienced 212-719-0622. y 212-869-2699 212-880-0414 Live/Work Call (212) 268-9126 send resume and PRODUCTION •Sales Associates Aug ’03 - Jan ’04--$18/ft FRAGRANCES HR at: CREED, NY PRODUCTIONS A world class global We have immediate Call Sherr •Business Managers 488 7th Avenue career with creativity, Full Floor, 5000 sq ft sublet PRODUCTIONS ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Fax: 212-689-0554 For Space in Garment Center excellence, and passion. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail For consideration please SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT fragrance company where Showrooms & Lofts •Public Relations Associate handwritten cover letter talented people can build a openings for CREED & BOND Hi Ceils, Wd Flrs, Immed Occup. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 PATTERNS/SAMPLES Helmsley-Spear, Inc. •National Account Executive Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Marketing Assistant PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 1 BR SHOWROOM starting at $1625. Heart of Fashion District 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views 7 West 36th Street 212.594.6630 ext 19 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 212-629-8694 M-F 10am- 6pm. No Fee. All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. Product Development/ PATTERNS/ SAMPLE Specializing in small productions. Sam- ples, duplicates, patterns.shop to the trade. Fine fast work. Full service NARS Cosmetics,skincare prestige line colortant seeks and marketingskincare for assis- area.prefered. product Fax to Skincareto [email protected] 212-941-1034 development or experience email in . www.chancechanel.com Want to Want know more? Register on ® ® , Inc. CHANCE ® ©2002 CHANEL

“I was given a chance, and I took it.” Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

Merci from D

Thank you for honoring CHANCE as the FiFi winner for Best Women’s Fragrance Luxe launch of the year. The unexpected new CHANEL fragrance is a decidedly young scent . . . for those who dare to dream.

Our appreciation goes to all our retail partners who shared our excitement, to our Beauty Advisers and to the editors who embraced the fragrance so lovingly and, of course, to the voting members of the Fragrance Foundation.

We’re also grateful for the great juice, the great advertising and packaging—along with the special cooperation of our entire worldwide team. It was a wonderful chance for all of us . . . and together we took it!