THE IN-FLIGHT MAGAZINE OF AIR NIUGINI VOLUME 6 NOVEMBER – DECEMBER 2017 PARADISE

FOOTY FEVER PNG kicking goals in & AFL

IDYLLIC MADANG BEHIND THE MASK CITY GUIDE Barefoot adventures on Four days of dance at a Everything you need to the north coast Kokopo festival know about Singapore

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K IN PARADISE CONTENTS

AIRLINE NEWS DEPARTURE LOUNGE THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE A message from Air Niugini’s Paradise Q&A: My healthy ways, chairman 8 Jamie Maxtone-Graham 14

A winning partnership with the Hunters 10 Multi-media exhibition of Tolai people 15

New operating system for Air Niugini 10 Rugby league glory for PNG Hunters 16

Benefits of aviation hub revealed 12 How to get comfortable at Singapore’s Changi Airport 18

Air Niugini’s first female general manager 12 PNG wins AFL’s International Cup 20

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD

A yen for snow A ski trip to Japan with fluffy powder and hot springs 52

Idyllic Madang City guide Barefoot adventures Everything you need on the north coast 22 to know about Singapore 56

Behind the mask Aussie beach getaway Review Four days of festivities in Kokopo 34 A funky boutique hotel on the NSW coast 50 Rabaul Hotel 76 Castaway pleasure Surfing mecca Three of a Kind Deserted beaches, lobster and other Five-star surf and stay in Bali 64 Waterfront restaurants 77 indulgences in the Solomon Islands 42 Street cred 78 Sydney’s fashionable Kensington Street 74 Time Traveller

4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine IN PARADISE CONTENTS

LIVING STRICTLY BUSINESS LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES Gathering of PNG’s business elite Sydney conference showcases PNG as an investment destination 112 Q&A: Boto Gaupo A vision for the cocoa industry 116 Look good, feel good Human Wellness and beauty 104 resources A special report 118 What’s PNG looking at on Culture Warrior the internet? Anthropologist and The top sites and brands revealed 122 explorer Wade Davis 80

A piece of PNG BRAIN GYM Garamut drums 90 QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD Passion play Crosswords, puzzles 124 How rugby league became a national obsession 92 Quiz: How well do you know the region? 125

Solutions 126 Bilums with a twist The colourful creations ARRIVALS LOUNGE of Florence Jaukae Kamel 86 PNG VISITOR GUIDE

In the bag Advice, where to eat, hotels 128 Bilums catching on as a world-wide Rag Tag fleet fashion accessory 88 The small boats that fought Two-minute guide to Tok Pisin 134 the Pacific war 94 Gadgets and travel accessories 106 street map 135 Review Bougainville’s best pizza? 99 Movie previews 108 Lae street map 136 Spotted In A PNG hotelier in Germany 102 Book previews 110

THE IN-FLIGHT MAGAZINE OF AIR NIUGINI VOLUME 6 NOVEMBER – DECEMBER 2017 AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER INFORMATION 138 PARADISE

In-flight entertainment highlights 140 FOOTY FEVER PNG kicking goals in rugby league & AFL

Cover photo: The PNG Hunters are cock-a-hoop at winning the Queensland Rugby League premiership. See our wrap of the game on page 16. PICTURE: QRL MEDIA IDYLLIC MADANG BEHIND THE MASK CITY GUIDE Barefoot adventures on Four days of dance at a the north coast Everything you need to Kokopo festival know about Singapore

PLUS: PNG CULTURE FASHION WELLNESS November – December 2017 5 PARADISE Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, ’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year.

BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL EDITOR Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for Robert Upe this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally PUBLISHING DIRECTOR recognised standard for environmental management. This Andrew Wilkins STAFF WRITERS publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock David James, Kevin McQuillan is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR sustainable forestry practices. Robert Hamilton-Jones CONTRIBUTORS Richard Andrews, Carolyn Beasley, John Brooksbank, Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Paul Chai, Greg Clarke, Glenn Dunks, Roderick Eime, businessadvantagepng.com. Charles Saldanha Bronwen Gora, Marisa Howden, Brian Johnston, +61 (0)404 842 472 Grace Maribu, Gordon Peake, Nina Karnikowski, Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and [email protected] Sandhya Dusk Nand, Mary O’Brien, Tom Poutney, photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept Kathleen Prior, Penny Watson Business Advantage International Pty Ltd responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this Level 20, 31 Queen Street, Melbourne, AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS publication may be reproduced without the written permission Victoria, 3000, Australia Illan Kaprangi, Nori Maniana of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Fax + 61 3 8678 1269 expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily www.businessadvantageinternational.com DESIGN represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may Editorial inquiries be subject to change at any time and without notice. Tel +61 3 9111 0044 CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE © Copyright. 2017. All rights reserved. [email protected] The Chief Executive Officer Air Niugini Paradise online PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea www.airniuginiparadise.com Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550

6 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Experience a

world of dif ference.

Call +675 302 8888 to secure your stay, email [email protected] or visit www.thestanleypng.com Message from the Chairman

Welcome aboard

n this issue of Paradise, Air Niugini At the time of writing, the next important period in the 2017 rugby Fully Serviced Apartments is proud to highlight the wonderful league season for PNG is upon us. achievements of the SP PNG The Kumuls national squad to compete in the World Cup has been IHunters during the 2017 Intrust Cup chosen – and it includes many of the premiership-winning Hunters For Lease – culminating in the Hunters winning team. the Queensland Rugby League (QRL) Air Niugini is privileged to be the official carrier for the Kumuls, and premiership for the first time. we also support our national team through our sponsorship of the PNG Long or Short Term... Air Niugini is the official airline carrier Rugby League. for the Hunters, and a major sponsor of We wish the Kumuls well – and hope the team will build on the the team and the Papua New Guinea wonderful success of the Hunters. Rugby League (PNGRL). The assurance I give all our passengers, and the teams and The board, management and staff of organisations we are pleased to sponsor, is that our support will Air Niugini value our association with the Hunters, and rugby league, continue in the future as part of our commitment to the nation and our national sport. It forms a key part of our extensive sponsorship people we serve as the national flag carrier. program for sport, and community and charitable organisations, I am sure you will enjoy the special cover and the pictorial coverage across the nation. Paradise is giving the Hunters – and I thank the Queensland Rugby Every time the Hunters travel to Queensland to compete in the League for its co-operation that has enabled us to do so. Intrust Cup, they travel with Air Niugini – to Brisbane and Cairns, and This will be the last issue of our in-flight magazine before Christmas. now Townsville. It is hard to believe that it is 12 months since I last penned Christmas Our ground and in-flight team regularly comment how much they enjoy greetings to you, our valued passengers, to our commercial partners, meeting the travel needs of the Hunters – and of course transporting and to all our employees. the team back to Port Moresby with the Intrust Cup recently. The year has been a very busy and challenging one for Air Niugini. They never complain – even when they occasionally are beaten – I am proud of the progress we have made, including the introduction and take great care to greet fellow passengers, sign autographs, and of the Fokker 70 aircraft into our fleet, new services to the Federated take part in ‘selfie’ photos with fans. States of Mirconesia and Townsville, and the implementation of the As the prime minister and other leaders have commented, the Sabre Airline Solution passenger service system, which significantly Hunters are a source of great pride, not just for rugby league, but also upgrades our online services for passengers. for all the people of PNG. The progress we have achieved would not have been possible They are also outstanding ambassadors for PNG in Queensland, and without the loyalty, enthusiasm and commitment of all our employees throughout the rugby league world. – from our captains and first officers, to our cabin crew, and all our AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING In the four years the Hunters have participated in the Intrust Cup, the ground staff. MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE team has been highly competitive, and has established a substantial The board, our chief executive officer Simon Foo, his management fan base in Queensland. team, and all the staff of Air Niugini wish you, and your families, a Now that it has won the premiership, the fan base in Queensland happy and safe Christmas. will grow, and it will also see the team’s support within PNG expand – if that is possible! When the Hunters defend the premiership in 2018, Air Niugini, as a major sponsor, will be working with the PNG Rugby League to promote the team’s home-and-away matches. This will include air Sir Frederick Reiher, KCMG, KBE

travel and accommodation packages. Chairman, Air Niugini Limited MP _1716463 It’s really so much better here...

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg Fully Serviced Apartments For Lease Long or Short Term...

AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE MP _1716463 It’s really so much better here... Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg AIRLINE NEWS THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI WITH ILLAN KAPRANGI A winning partnership

ir New Guinea congratulates the PNG SP Hunters on their recent premiership win in the Queensland ARugby League (QRL). The Hunters won the Intrust Super Cup in a nail-biting 12–10 victory over Sunshine Coast. Air Niugini has been supporting the PNG SP Hunters with discounted domestic and international air travel since the team joined the QRL four years ago. To ensure Papua New Guineans could see their favorite team play in the final, Air Niugini operated two extra flights from Port Moresby to Brisbane. One of the flights was subsidised by the NCD Governor. n

For more photos and details about the Cup in hand … Air Niugini general manager commercial, Dominic Kaumu (left), and executive manager big win, turn to our story on page 16. flight operations, captain Samiu Taufa (right), with the PNG Hunters and the Intrust Super Cup. New operating system Games for Air Niugini committee ir Niugini has switched to a Air Niugini’s chief executive officer, on board new and improved passenger Simon Foo, says the changeover was an services system (PSS). The outstanding operation, involving many airline he Papua New Guinea Games ‘SabreSonic’ system manages staff who put in extra time and effort to A organising committee recently opened different parts of an airline’s business, ensure the successful outcome. a Universal Airlines Travel Plan (UATP) including bookings, schedules, fares and “To have achieved a cutover of this nature, account with Air Niugini. passenger check-in. with minimal disruption to our operations, T PNG Games executive, John Susuve, The changeover to the system started is a result of excellent teamwork and co- says the account, which provides access early on September 30 and was completed operation between our service providers, to discounted airfares, is to cover the 18 hours later. Air Niugini staff and Sabre Airline Solutions.” committee’s travel to Kimbe, in West New Staff at Air Niugini and Sabre Airline Air Niugini has partnered with Sabre Britain, to ensure games readiness. Solutions worked around the clock to achieve to introduce this leading PSS to enhance Athletes from 22 provinces will converge the transition. customer experience. n on Kimbe for the games scheduled from November 10 to December 1. Ground control … Air Air Niugini’s national corporate sales Niugini management, manager, Charlie Wanma, says the airline including chief executive officer is no stranger to carrying athletes. He says Simon Foo (centre), Air Niugini is the official carrier of the Pacific and Sabre Airline Games and will also ensure smooth passage Solutions staff who witnessed the change for officials and athletes to and from Kimbe to the new operating for the PNG Games. n system.

AIRLINE NEWS THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI

Airline’s first Benefits of female GM

ir Niugini has appointed its first airport hub female general manager. Bonai Wala has taken up the position of GM in Aproperties and facilities, one of the airline’s new subsidiaries. She has worked with Air Niugini for 24 Sir Fredrick Reiher … says Jacksons International Airport has had a large increase years in several capacities, including finance in passengers connecting between Pacific and human resources. She was the human nations, Asia and Australia. resources manager prior to this appointment. Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon Foo, ir Niugini’s chairman, Sir Frederick government revenue will be boosted through says the appointment is based on merit, not Reiher, has told a conference of arrival and departure taxes, as well as gender. He added that Air Niugini continues Papua New Guinea’s business consumer spending by passengers. to promote gender equality in the workplace. leaders that the development of Port “We have competition on a number of our The airline has a number of females in top A positions, including department managers. Moresby’s Jacksons International Airport international routes – notably to Brisbane into a regional aviation hub will bring many and Sydney and Manila. Our challenge is to The property and facilities subsidiary benefits. Speaking at the Business Advantage maximise our passenger numbers by the manages Air Niugini’s property assets. n Papua New Guinea Investment Conference, quality of our service, and the opportunities in Sydney, Australia, he said that the National we offer to connect efficiently to, and Government has spent about PGK745 million beyond, key cities such as Singapore, Hong on the airport’s redevelopment, including Kong, Brisbane and Sydney.” modernisation of terminals. Next March, Air Niugini will start flights from PNG to Shanghai, China, to further enhance the hub. “While our hub project targets major airports, it will also provide Our goal is to establish links to the island nations of Melanesia, and increasingly ,” Sir Frederick said. Top job … Bonai Wala with Air Niugini chief Port Moresby as a executive officer, Simon Foo (left), and chairman, “In addition to the established flights to Sir Frederick Reiher (right). regional hub for air Honiara (Solomon Islands), Port Vila (Vanuatu) travellers. and Nadi (Fiji), we now have regular services between Port Moresby and Pohnpei and Chuuk in the Federated States of Micronesia, Work wear and we are exploring opportunities in the Air Niugini airport staff were the focus of Republic of and Marshall Islands. attention recently when they came to work Air Niugini is embracing the opportunity this “Earlier this year we established twice- in traditional dress for Papua New Guinea’s redevelopment has facilitated, he said, by weekly services to Townsville, in addition to Independence Day celebrations. Many of opening new routes, as well as undertaking daily flights to Cairns,” he said. the staffers wore traditional attire from their a major re-fleeting program that is delivering “The development of the Port Moresby hub own provinces. n more comfortable and efficient aircraft. remains a work in progress, however already “Our goal is to establish Port Moresby as we are seeing a large increase in the number a regional hub for air travellers connecting of passengers connecting between Pacific Australia with Asia, and Asia with Oceania, islands and Asia, and between Queensland, as well as meeting the intra-Pacific needs of Asia and Pacific islands.” n countries in Micronesia and Melanesia.” For more news from the investment Sir Fredrick said the benefits of the conference, see our story starting on project will flow beyond Air Niugini. He said page 112.

12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Helping business reach new heights. Westpac has been helping business in PNG to fly high since 1910. And today we’re doing even more. We’ve recently launched the Verifone EFTPOS terminal, which is supported by a team of experts. Our award-winning Corporate Online Platform is in high demand. And we’re continuing to expand our infrastructure and capabilities to meet the needs of government, corporate and institutional customers. It’s all part of our commitment to supporting business in PNG for years to come.

Banking for generations

SOSS0533 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE PARADISE Q&A JAMIE MAXTONE- GRAHAM This former PNG health minister lost 65 kilograms and has become an advocate for good health. He now runs a wellness lodge in Port Moresby.

Q: You are a self-described health fanatic. What set you on this path? A: I was rushed to hospital (in 2006), where doctors told me I had blocked arteries and needed an emergency bypass operation. I was facing death – in a hospital bed on a drip, wired to the angiogram machine. The doctor told me my arteries were 85 per cent blocked. I was 165 kilograms. Q: But you refused the surgery? A: I refused the bypass surgery after a friend died of a heart attack three years after his own bypass. I bought health books on reversing blocked arteries without surgery – using diet, exercise and supplements only. I invested in a juicer. After 12 months, I lost 65 kilograms. My health improved, my blocked arteries became unblocked. I felt really good; can lead to kidney failure, stroke or the need Guineans. We have 62 backpacker rooms, I had more energy; I was so happy. for amputation. 26 deluxe rooms, four executive rooms, and Q: How do you stay healthy? Q: What advice would you give to Papua three restaurants. The Wellness Restaurant A: I watch my diet. I do regular fasting and New Guineans? serves international food; Village Kitchen detox. I maintain my fitness by playing touch A: Many people tend to pursue wealth serves only local PNG cuisine; and Village footy, swimming, boxing and gym workouts. while ignoring their health. But prevention Cafe serves healthy salads, fresh juices, I follow a set program combined with is better than cure. Eat fruits, vegetables and smoothies and coffee. intermittent fasting on ketogenic food. fish. Drink lots of water. Exercise every day. Q. How do you define PNG food? Q: What are PNG’s key health issues? Avoid stress. Be happy. A. Local garden foods such as sweet A: Epidemiology statistics show deaths Q: Tell us a bit about your wellness lodge. potato, taro, yam, banana, tapioca, sago by non-communicable diseases have A: We have a health clinic for screening and – of course – fish, chicken, beef, pork, overtaken communicable diseases in our clients’ health status and we provide detox deer, and magani. Our delicacies are mumu cities and towns. Diabetes, for example, programs for weight loss and diabetes (see pork, smoked fish cooked in coconut cream, is climbing exponentially. Diabetes is a slow the Wellness Lodge Facebook page for with lots of fresh greens. Many Papua New degenerative disease, which brings with it contact details). We have helped corporate Guineans who have tried our dishes (at the a whole range of illnesses – heart disease, executives, politicians, national court judges, Wellness Lodge) love them. n hypertension, cancer and arthritis – and public servants, and ordinary Papua New — GRACE MARIBU

14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE WITH ROBERT UPE

Sonia Payes … the photographer in PNG (inset) and one her works that slant towards Tolai history ‘adventure and fantasy’. and heritage

multi-media exhibition showcasing 100 years of history and culture of the Tolai people of East New A Britain has opened at the Melbourne Museum, in Australia. After a successful showing at the Queensland Art Gallery in Brisbane last year, the exhibition, called a Bit na Ta, has been taken to Melbourne by Lisa Hilli, artist and collection manager at Museums Victoria – herself a Tolai person. “It shows the history of significant impacts on the Tolai people from 1875–1975 from a Tolai perspective,” she tells Paradise. Those impacts include first contact with missionaries, three massive volcanic eruptions, the rise of the local self- PNG IN THE FRAME governance movement – the Mataungan Association – and colonialism. ne of the greatest attractions in Payes says she has an ongoing artistic The exhibition’s title, a Bit na Ta, means Papua New Guinea is scuba diving. interest in the themes of rebirth and ‘source of the sea’ and the exhibition’s The options range from barrier reefs, transformation. “I have now taken these soundtrack balances studio and field Oto coral gardens, to secluded atolls. Papua New Guinea landscapes and combined recordings, traditional and new works Visual artist and photographer Sonia Payes them in a travelling exhibition of my work on performed by solo artists, choirs and has done many diving excursions in PNG, PNG called Terra Mysteria.” string bands. Among the musicians is the which led to her becoming fascinated with Payes says she is especially attracted to celebrated George Telek from Kokopo. the country’s landscape. the distinctive quality of the PNG light. “The Australian musician and producer David “Scuba diving is my favourite recreational colour in the PNG landscape is extremely Bridie, from Wantok Musik, has spearheaded sport,” the Australian says. “There, I am in intense. As an artist my vision slants towards the project. n another world by simply immersing myself the dark and other-worldly side and one of The a Bit na Ta exhibition is on at the into the deep unknown, with the only sound adventure and fantasy.” Bunjilaka (First People’s) Gallery at of my breathing … Payes is looking to have her photographs the Melbourne Museum until February “I then travelled extensively in the rugged presented in PNG. “I would like to think 4. See museumsvictoria.com.au/ geography of great swathes of Papua New that my work might be exhibited in the melbournemuseum/. Guinea. A part of my fascination is inevitably fabulous New Guinea parliament house or — KEVIN McQUILLAN cultural – the vibrant customs and colours of the spectacular Haus APEC building currently local tribes, the often mysterious food and nearing completion,” she says. n liquor experiences. It’s a journey of discovery See soniapayes.com.au. on every level.” — DAVID JAMES

NUMBER CRUNCH

That’s the percentage of Papua New Guineans who identify themselves as Christian. The most dominant Christian religion is Catholic (27 per cent), 96% followed by Lutheran (19.5 per cent). In profile … the Tolai are the subject of an exhibition showing in Australia.

November – December 2017 15 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HUNTERS WIN A THRILLER

16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Pure joy ... the PNG Hunters fired up for their first QRL premiership, ecouraged by a strong pro-PNG crowd at Brisbane’s Suncorp Stadium. PICTURES: QRL MEDIA

he PNG Hunters have claimed a All the details piece of sporting history, winning the Queensland Rugby League’s Intrust PNG Hunters 12 (, Willie Super Cup premiership 12–10. showed Minoga tries; 2 goals) d Sunshine T Coast Falcons 10 (Matthew Soper-Lawler, It was the first premiership for the team, true determination to Joe Stimson tries; Joe Stimson goal). after just four seasons in the competition. touch down, sending the Ase Boas was the hero for the PNG Duncan Hall medallist (man of the Hunters, kicking the winning conversion in the mostly pro-PNG crowd match): Ase Boas (PNG Hunters). hard-fought win against Sunshine Coast at into raptures. Brisbane’s Suncorp Stadium in late September. Crowd: 11,260 (record) The match was a scrappy affair, but the errors meant the game was close right to the end, giving the Hunters the chance to strike The game was characterised by tough late. The scores were tied up with just over A proud PNG Hunters coach, Michael defence, with both teams putting bodies a minute to play when big Willie Minoga Marum, told QRL Media that he was already on the line. showed true determination to touch down on thinking about playing extra time after Minoga After the victory, the Hunters were a Boas grubber in goal, sending the mostly scored the try to level the game – just in case welcomed back to Port Moresby as heroes. pro-PNG crowd into raptures. the conversion attempt from Boas failed. Fire trucks hosed down the Air Niugini plane The try was sent to the video referee who The game started badly for the Hunters, that they arrived on (Air Niugini is one of the confirmed the decision – sending the crowd with Sunshine Coast racing to a 10–0 lead team’s sponsors), followed by a motorcade into cheers once again. after seven minutes. It took the Hunters through the city. n Minoga said he was “really emotional” until the 41st minute to hit back on the Rugby league, a national obsession, about the win and that the victory was scoreboard. page 92. history for his team.

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November – December 2017 17 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

COMFORT TIPS FOR CHANGI AIRPORT ingapore’s Changi Airport, where Air Niugini flies five times a week, is one of the world’s best when it comes Sto relaxation facilities, thanks to terminals filled with a range of spas, massage chairs, two airport hotels, a swimming pool, gyms and unique Snooze Lounges offering recliners similar to those in first and business class airline cabins. Pay-per-use lounges found in each of Airport luxuries … the swimming pool and a relaxing lounge area at Singapore’s Changi Airport. Changi’s terminals are ideal if you don’t qualify for a business class airline lounge. $S17 for the use of the pool, reading area into either Aerotel Transit Hotel in T1 or the The Ambassador Transit Lounge, for with books, showers and a range of non- Ambassador Transit Hotel in T2 and T3, which example, in T2 has a shower, lounge, food alcoholic drinks. T1 and T2 also have 24-hour has bedrooms with televisions in rooms and a bar with drinks included in the price, gymnasiums. overlooking the airport, and even a wake-up and gym. Entry to the Ambassador Transit For those who want something a tad call service. n Lounge costs $S58 for five hours per adult. more relaxing, there are eight massage and If you’re travelling to Singapore, don’t If you want some fresh air, sunlight and a bit spa salons inside Changi with the latest miss our city guide starting on page 56. addition being the Heaven on Earth in T2. of exercise, Changi has a rooftop swimming — BRONWEN GORA pool as well as a jacuzzi in T1. This costs Or, if you’re after a complete retreat, check

18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE PICTURES: AFL MEDIA

Mosquitoes buzzing after footy win

apua New Guinea’s Mosquitoes AFL all the details team has won the AFL International Cup, played at the MCG in Melbourne, FINAL STANDINGS MEN: Australia, with a thrilling one-point 1 PNG; 2 NZ; 3 Ireland; 4 US; 5 Nauru; 6 P I am feeling proud Great Britain; 7 Canada; 8 Fiji; 9 South Africa; victory over New Zealand. 10 France; 11 Croatia; 12 Germany; 13 China; The Mosquitoes are the first team in AFL for all the boys and 14 Japan; 15 Sri Lanka; 16 Indonesia; 17 International Cup men’s competition to win Pakistan; 18 India. back-to-back titles. our supporters here NZ pushed hard in the final minutes, but and back home. FINAL STANDINGS WOMEN: PNG’s defence held tight. 1 Ireland; 2 Canada; 3 Great Britain; 4 US; 5 The youngest player in the competition, Fiji; 6 PNG; 7 European Crusaders; 8 Pakistan. Hewago ‘Ace’ Oea, 16, was best on ground, utilising lightning speed and tremendous PNG: 1.1 3.2 4.4 4.5 (29) ball skills. “I am feeling proud for all the boys NZ : 2.0 3.1 4.3 4.4 (28) and our supporters here and back home,” The Mosquitoes know how to play under Oea said. GOALS PNG: Pirika 2, Oea, Palah pressure, having won the title in 2008 by NZ: Miller, McKenzie, Johnson, Donnell-Brown eight points and in 2011 by three points. Half the team, including captain John BEST PNG: Oea, Pirika, Johnson, Lavai, James Lavai, was playing in a second AFL So-Ong International Cup grand final. NZ: Clark, Johnson, Clince PNG voices rang out across the MCG and players soaked up the triumph with supporters who had been out in numbers “I thought Papua New Guinea might rue during the fortnight-long carnival in August. a missed goal at the end but they stayed “The standard continues to improve calm and got up again.” throughout the tournament,” AFL chief Twenty six male and female teams n Pumped ... the Mosquitoes clinced the AFL executive officer Gillon McLachlan said after representing 21 countries took part. International Cup by one point. handing over the trophy. — TOM POUNTNEY

20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine EASY STEPS TO SECURE YOUR RIDE TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD Idyllic Madang Marisa Howden journeys to PNG’s north coast to visit a forgotten paradise, above and below the waterline.

leepy Madang. Steamy Madang has everything from in Madang (and wider PNG) for On the edge of Madang Madang. Scenic Madang. fishing and diving to nature over 40 years. Harbour, the resort is the main I’m hard pressed to find walks and culture tours. He first arrived in PNG in the tourism hub in town and the Sjust one word to describe Madang was once PNG’s main 1960s as a pilot for TALAIR, base for many of Madang’s star Papua New Guinea’s forgotten tourism destination, attracting before purchasing Madang attractions. It’s here you can paradise. guests from all over the world. Resort in 1976. He then set up organise kayaking, catamaran ‘Sleepy’ comes to mind for And I can see why. There are Melanesian Tourist Services, or snorkelling expeditions, as Madang’s laidback attitude. few other spots in the country which is one of the largest well as game fishing and harbour ‘Steamy’ is certainly pertinent – where you can dive with schools tourism operators in the country, cruises. it’s significantly hotter here than of big fish in the morning, before trying his hand at politics But it’s Niugini Dive Adventures anywhere else I’ve been in the and then catch one later that as the governor of Madang that I’m here to see. The country. ‘Scenic’ is close to the afternoon for dinner. Province. company has organised a half- mark too – the natural beauty In recent years, Madang has Among other things, today his day tour to two of Madang’s best that surrounds the township is seen a drop in international time is spent maintaining the dive sites. jaw-dropping beautiful. There tourists. One of the country’s 182-room Madang Resort and are hundreds of kilometres of main advocates for tourism, and Kalibobo Village, while working coastline, with turquoise waters owner of the Madang Resort, tirelessly to bring Madang and swaying palm trees. Sir Peter Barter, says more back to its glory But if I had to use one word to government support is needed to days. describe this place – just a one- arrest the tourism downturn. hour Air Niugini flight from Port Sir Peter has been a Moresby – it would be ‘idyllic’. driving force for tourism PICTURES: DAVID KIRKLAND, SARAH WILES, MADANG RESORT

22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY

Coral garden ... good diving is available on the doorstep of Madang.

November – December 2017 23 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

The great thing about Madang Town landmark ... the is you don’t have to go far to find Coastwatchers Memorial Madang has good diving, and within half an hour Lighthouse (this page); we’re at the first site of the day, Madang from the air everything from (opposite page, right); Planet Rock. snorkelling in Madang's fishing and diving My dive companion, Brad, who turquoise waters (opposite has dived all around PNG, tells me page, bottom). to nature walks that you come to Madang to see and culture the ‘wow’ stuff, such as schools of giant trevally and barracuda, as tours. There well as hammerhead sharks and are hundreds rays. Planet Rock – a 600-metre of kilometres of volcanic seamount – is the best place to see them. coastline, with As soon as we descend, schools turquoise waters of barracuda, dogtooth and giant trevally hover around. It’s like and swaying they’re carefully scrutinising us palm trees. with their watchful eyes. Once you get over their presence, you notice that below them lies a healthy reef with an abundance

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24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

up the harbour, on the outer edge for another excellent dive. The of Pig Island. But first we stop for a current isn’t so strong this time, swim and snorkel on the inside of which makes for a very pleasant the island, and I’m blown away. cruise around the point’s seawall, If I thought the rest of Madang where I encounter lots of big fish was idyllic, it’s nothing compared again, and more of my favourite to the crystal clear, turquoise tiny blue friends. waters that fringe this island. When we arrive back to the It’s absolutely stunning and only resort I’m told Pig Island and many topped off by the magnificent other spots, such as Kranket and snorkelling that lies beneath – Wangat islands, can be accessed another healthy reef that I could during half or full-day harbour happily spend hours just cruising cruises. Snorkelling equipment is about, checking out all its nooks available through the dive shop, as and crannies and the little Nemos well as kayaks and catamarans if that swim about. you prefer to make your own way Even better are the smiley, happy there. of smaller fish. My favourites are starfish as they lazily bask in the children foraging on the island’s Madang is also one of the best the tiny, electric-blue fish with the warm water. It’s an excellent dive, white sand beaches, laughing places in PNG for game fishing. It bright yellow tails. Hundreds of but the current is strong so it takes freely without a care in the world. was here, at the National Fishing them swim in and out of the stony a bit of extra effort. Once I get over my envy, we Titles in 2013, that my mother-in- corals and smaller sponge corals, Next, we move towards make our way to Barracuda Point law caught a 182-kilogram blue not before cruising past bright blue Barracuda Point, which is further

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November – December 2017 25 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

marlin on 15-kilogram line, The province setting a national record. was first settled The Madang Resort is one by Russian of the best places to stay explorer in town, offering a range of Nicholay accommodation options, Mikloucho- from self-contained units Maclay, before at Kalibobo Village, to basic being occupied by the hotel rooms and waterfront Germans and then bungalows. There is a nice Australia after World restaurant with themed War 2. buffet nights and fresh fish, But it’s Madang’s as well as four swimming rich culture I’m most pools, a tennis court, and interested to hear bird aviaries with tree about as I embark kangaroos, cassowaries and on a full-day tour cockatoos. of local villages. As The resort can also we drive 45 minutes arrange land tours through up the north coast, Melanesian Tourist Services my guide, Alex, tells me or Haus Tumbuna, the that of PNG’s 800-plus tourism bureau and artefact languages, 25 per cent museum near the Madang come from Madang. Lodge. It’s here you can Incredible, really, that view an exhibition about over a quarter of the Madang’s history. country’s culture stems from this one province.

Cultural immersion … visitors to Madang are sure to meet a diverse range of cultural groups. A quarter of PNG’s culture is said to stem from Madang Province.

26 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

Many of these cultures are evident at the annual Madang Festival, usually held during the June long weekend. It’s here you can meet people from many of the local cultures as they perform their enchanting sing sings, as well as view the lush floral collections from the region, which include over 10 species of orchids. As we continue our drive up the coast, we stop in to Kusen village, next to a pale-blue coral lagoon, to see the natural rock formation called ‘Hole in the Wall’. When the tide is at the right level, you can swim under the rocks that border the lagoon and come out on

Flying the flag ... sing sings are part of the annual Madang Festival, usually held during the June long weekend.

28 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

November – December 2017 29 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang the other side – a literal hole in the of the islanders in the surrounding CONNECTING wall. I’m not game enough to try harbour. It’s an idyllic spot for it myself but I’m more than happy a picnic or walk. to have a swim in the picturesque As we head back towards BUSINESSES ACROSS water hole. Madang we call into Jais Aben, Another 90 minutes up the coast another resort, about 20 minutes is Tupira Surfing Lodge, which from town. This is a must-do, in April saw hundreds of surfers whether it’s to stay in one of the ASIA AND BEYOND gather for the World Longboard oceanfront bungalows or to visit Championships. The surfing season for a swim and lunch on the white- runs from November to April, but sand beach. the lodge is open year round for South of Madang, is Balek IT’S IN OUR DNA visitors. Wildlife Sanctuary, which featured On our way back down the coast in the 1997 production of Robinson we stop into Alexishaven – a Crusoe. It’s a small village with Open up a world of opportunities in Asia’s key trading markets. Our on-the-ground Catholic missionary site occupied a sulfuric creek that runs down presence provides regional insights and local expertise, vital to accessing and by the Japanese during World from the mountains through a navigating local markets. So if you’re looking for a banking partner with a long history War 2. Today it’s another sleepy limestone cave. village, home to a commune, as of delivering for its clients across the Asian region, connect with us. well as a main port of call for many

Local craft ... Bil Bil villagers are renowned for their pottery.

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Open up a world of opportunities in Asia’s key trading markets. Our on-the-ground presence provides regional insights and local expertise, vital to accessing and navigating local markets. So if you’re looking for a banking partner with a long history of delivering for its clients across the Asian region, connect with us.

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© Australia and New Zealand Banking Group (PNG) Limited. 09/17 HG328 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Idyllic Madang

There’s a pungent smell of who assisted the Allies during the lodge’s barbecue on Friday And since it’s pretty easy to get sulphur in the air as we take a World War 2. Further along this nights is a treat, as is the Eden here from Port Moresby, Lae or the short walk through the surrounding scenic coastal road, are Haus Restaurant at the Madang Country Highlands, there’s really no excuse jungle to view the crystal-clear Tumbuna and the Madang Lodge, Club for Chinese cuisine. not to visit. I promise: ‘idyllic’ stream where turtles, fish and eels another one of the excellent There’s not much you can’t do in Madang won’t disappoint. congregate. accommodation options in town. Madang. Tropical paradise, check. Further up the road from Balek is Set among beautiful manicured Incredible diving, check. Rich Bil Bil village, where you can view gardens with stunning views culture, check. traditional clay pots being made. over Astrolobe Bay, the Madang It’s only the women who make Lodge has short and long-term the specialised pottery, moulding accommodation options, including Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Madang twice daily. the pots into vases, water jugs, self-contained apartments, as well See airniugini.com.pg. souvenirs and crockery. The small as a fully equipped gym and fitness butterfly farm houses several centre, waterside restaurant, species of butterflies, including the artifact haus, cafe and gift shop, Cairns birdwing. and onsite masseuse. On the way back into town, is The oceanfront apartments are the Coastwatchers Memorial great for families, with a big lawn Lighthouse, built in 1952 to honour and pool for kids to play in. the Australian and PNG men For somewhere to eat in town,

Taking the plunge ... diving and snorkelling excursions are available through Madang Resort.

NEED TO KNOW STAYING THERE Madang Lodge from PGK130 per night, madanglodge.com; Madang Resort from PGK200, madangresort.com; Jais Aben Resort from PGK350, jaisabenresort.com. THINGS TO DO Madang Resort arranges sightseeing, diving and snorkelling. MORE INFORMATION madangvisitorsbureau.org

32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY

As the rhythm of the drum picks up, people begin to stomp their feet and rejoice.

PICTURES: KATHLEEN PRIOR

34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Behind the mask Kathleen Prior sees sacred rituals, elaborate costumes and fire eaters at the annual Mask Festival in Kokopo.

xcited chatter ripples through the On this morning, women have gathered to bid darkness at Kokopo beach in East New their sons goodbye and good luck. They hold Britain where a growing cluster of people giant sugar canes, the leaves waving above Eis waiting. As milky early morning light their heads. starts to seep over the horizon, the crowd falls “They are coming,” whispers one of the silent in anticipation. Faintly in the distance, mothers, Rachael, as the chanting grows louder chanting and drumming can be heard. and a cluster of boats on the horizon starts to Kinavai is a sacred ritual of the Tolai people drift towards the beach. in East New Britain. Shrouded in secrecy A procession of barefoot boys begins to for hundreds of years, the tradition is today walk along the shoreline. Each wearing a red performed to open the Mask Festival held in lungi, they are nervous, biting their lips as their the province annually. Locals and tourists are eyes whip around anxiously. Older boys and invited to watch and join in the celebrations. teenagers follow, then they all stop and turn It is one of the rare occasions that people to face the transfixed crowd. outside of the Tolai tribe are able to see Their mothers go to meet them and the the tumbuans. Both feared and revered, the ceremony begins. The women, all standing on tumbuans are the masked figures of incarnated one side, use a stone to break open a coconut, spirits. Respected elders of the community splashing the water at their sons’ feet. Next undergo a secret process as they prepare they crack the sugar cane, before flinging for adorning the elaborate costumes of the a handful of lime powder. The white powder, tumbuans. Once this is complete, it is believed alongside red ochre, is also smeared on the that they become the embodiment of the spirit. boys’ chests and smudged on their brow and In days gone by, the tumbuans would pass cheek bones. It is believed to protect them from judgments in Tolai communities. They would the evil spirits. be summoned to a village to enforce or punish, Now, the boats are nearing the beach. and their decree had to be obeyed. It is reported Aboard are the female tumbuans and the that tumbuans have burned down the houses of male dukduks. those that disobeyed them, and they can kill a defier with impunity. At Kinavai, their presence is necessary to initiate boys of the clan to manhood.

In the groove ... dancers getting into the spirit of things at the Mask Festival.

November – December 2017 35 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Behind the mask

Fire dance ... costumed men leap through the flames in the Baining Mountains (left); dancing to the rhythm of the kundu (right).

The masks for both are conical. The females’ The Kinavai represents the Tolai people As the rhythm of the drum picks up, people are black with geometric faces and eyes of crossing the sea and arriving at the Gazelle begin to stomp their feet and rejoice. The concentric circles, painted in white and red. Peninsula hundreds of years ago. Once the morning sun is now golden, and everyone revels A tuft of white feathers flutter at the top. The boats are close enough, the tumbuans and in its joyous warmth. male masks are faceless, but are taller and more dukduks wade to the shore and playfully dance Later in the day, the mask festival is elaborately carved than those of their female at the water’s edge. The Tolai people on the formally commenced at the Kokopo sports counterparts. Both tumbuans and dukduks have beach immediately retreat, as to touch the field with speeches and applause. Tourists a billowing bodysuit of green leaves that rustle tumbuans is strictly forbidden. and photographers are gathered in a staged as they move and jiggle. Only the men’s legs, Meanwhile, the tourists and other spectators seating area, but today the gate is open with from below the knee, are visible. lurch closer and there is a frenzy of photography. no charge for entry, so many people from

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TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Behind the mask across the province have travelled to enjoy they leave us enchanted. As the ceremony red, and smoke streams around his face. Then the show. comes to an end, we jolt from our trance and he takes a bite. Spectators flinch, but he does A square dance floor has been roped off, carry our weary selves home. not even wince as he chews on the burning and spectators sit cross-legged around its The next day, back at the sports field, embers. A round of applause accompanies our edge. Many locals chew on buai, their lips festivities for day two of the mask festival are sigh of relief. stained conspicuously red. One of the stalls set to get underway at noon. But we’re on PNG After the performances, there are plenty of nearby providing snacks and souvenirs is time, and scattered but heavy downpours keep opportunities to have photos taken with the selling icy poles. Many children have coloured dampening dancers’ enthusiasm to perform. costumed dancers. Or to sit and enjoy a chat rings around their mouths, in synchrony with Finally, the kundu begins a dramatic slow with one of the tribes people, who are happy their elders. and steady build-up, announcing the imminent to share stories of their culture. In front of the captivated audience, the final arrival of the first performers. It is here, that I speak with villagers from the elements of the Tolai traditions are displayed. There is a schedule of events, but it serves Baining Mountains, resulting in me riding in the The tumbuans are summoned by chiefs hollering more as an indication of possible performances back of a pick-up truck up to their village just a and banging the kundu drum. They are whipped than a strict timetable. As dancers in costume few days later. The men have offered to show with strings of tabu, or shell money, then fall to appear, it’s a fun game to guess which village me their workshop where the masks are made. their knees. they represent. When men appear with masks An opportunity I cannot refuse.

Tolai people walk among them and fill their adorning feathered birds’ heads, we know On arrival, I am taken up a steep muddy baskets with tabu in an offering, though these must be the Sinivit villagers showcasing incline to the so-called ‘secret place’. They tell traditionally this would often have been the their akakuruk or chicken dance. In unison, me I am the first woman and first journalist to payment of a fine. they stamp and bow, capturing the illusion be allowed inside. Another highlight of the four-day event takes of the chickens on their headdress pecking at It is a rather humble building, more of a place in the evening. After nightfall, guests are the ground. shack, made from natural materials. Inside, driven up to the village of Gaulim in the Baining For the amurup or emu dance, a man from the an assortment of masks, some that I Mountains. There, a fire burns and crackles. Marmar village appears painted head to toe in recognise from the fire dance, hang from the Almost immediately after we arrive, the drums black. He is joined by two men in surprisingly walls. Resting on the floor is one half-made, begin to beat. realistic black-feathered costumes representing just a skeletal wooden frame waiting to be Costumed men circle the fire, then, one by the emus. This dance is a comical one, with the transformed. one, they jump over the flames. Suddenly, they man struggling to control the two giant birds Many of the masks have animalistic qualities, spring upwards and jump onto the fire, flames as they scamper around him. The expressions such as ears and a beak, having been inspired licking their legs as they kick the burning timber, on his face leave the crowd in giggles at the by the creatures of the forest. sending scattering embers towards the crowd. farcical humour. Gideon, a young man from the village, explains The crowd gasps in unison, in fear and wonder. The fire eaters are another highlight. These how the masks are made. “When a man sleeps In the pitch black and peacefulness of the men need no fanciful costumes to attract the at night, he dreams of the head of spirits. When mountains, the flames are the only light, their audience’s attention. Bare chested with a he wakes, he will sketch on the ground with a flickering red and orange mesmerising. Coupled simple feather headband, the lead performer broomstick or small knife. Then he will use that with the evocative chanting and drum rhythm, takes logs from the fire. One end smoulders in drawing to make the mask.”

38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Behind the mask

Initiation ... (from left) the procession of boys and older teenagers who will be initiated into manhood; Mask Festival dancing; a tumbuan; one of the elaborate masks.

He points to one with a long protruding jaw The wearing of some bigger and more and teeth, like the snout of a crocodile. “The important masks requires another level of maker had slept by the river when he dreamt initiation. For this prestigious role, men must of this one!” undertake a long period of fasting. The man is The masks are made from , a fabric buried in the soil with just his head showing created by pulping the bark of a tree, which is and is not allowed food, only water. Some men, stretched over the frame. This is then painted in reportedly, stay like this for up to a month. red and black. The black ink comes from the sap When they are lifted out by their fellow of a tree; and for the red, leaves of the areca tree villagers, they are weak but must perform are mixed with slaked lime. the dance before they are offered any The dances are performed about three times a nourishment. year, sometimes to pass boys into manhood and This rite of passage is only undertaken by sometimes for funerals, as well as other special the strongest elders in the village and those ceremonies. To prepare for the dance, the men who are most respected. performing must not partake in any wrongdoing As we talk, the chief of the village pops throughout the day, not steal nor say bad words by to say hello, beaming with pride for his nor even sleep with a woman. treasured tradition. “If a man does something morally wrong,” He tells me: “This dance is important to us Gideon tells me, “when he performs he will be as it has been passed on by our ancestors. burned by the fire.” It keeps the bad spirits away.”

November – December 2017 39 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Behind the mask

Arrival ... tumbuans landing at Kokopo beach, in front of a large crowd. NEED TO KNOW TOURING THERE The Mask Festival takes place Then he says something that reminds me of close to enjoy the music during July. Intrepid Travel and South Sea Horizons the entranced tourists who so much enjoyed and the night.” Just as have partnered to conduct tours to the festival. In 2018, the nine-day tour starts at $US3455. the vibrant cultural displays of this year’s mask we all did. festival. “It entices the good ones to come MORE INFORMATION intrepidtravel.com.au, southseahorizons.com Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Kokopo three times daily, except Mon/Wed/Fri when four times daily. See airniugini.com.pg.

inflightParadise Mag_postpng qty ad.indd 5 7/27/2017 9:57:02 AM 40 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION way PICTURES: DAVID KIRKLAND asta C pleasure

Greg Clarke samples the simple pleasures of lobster, icy cold beer and deserted beaches in the Solomon Islands, which once hosted one of the world’s most famous castaways.

rom the over-water bar inhabited. Kennedy Island takes including Plum Pudding Island). simplified version of wartime logic at Fatboys Resort in the its name from the 35th president After long swims at night went something like this: control Solomon Islands, lobster tails of the US, John Fitzgerald searching for patrolling naval the Solomons and PNG and win Fand cold beers are served Kennedy, who was shipwrecked colleagues who might offer rescue, the war for the Pacific. with views to nearby Kennedy there during World War 2. JFK and his comrades hid from the This year marks the centenary Island. The confection of sand and In 1943, Kennedy was Japanese during the day. of Kennedy’s birth, as well as the trees is a castaway idyll and the commander of a Patrol Torpedo The fighting here was some of 75th anniversary of the beginnings island was the temporary home (PT) boat that was sliced in two the most critical during the war of the campaign in the Solomons of perhaps the most renowned by a Japanese destroyer one in the Pacific and strategically after the Japanese invaded in castaway (other than Robinson night. Two men were killed but linked to the Papua New Guinea 1942. Crusoe) in history. Kennedy, 26, swam to the island campaign. When the Japanese Divers have long since been lured There are 992 islands in the that would later be renamed in his were defeated in the Solomons to the Solomon Islands – there Solomon Islands. Some 300 are honour (it has had various names, they retreated to Rabaul. The are 52 war wrecks in Iron Bottom

42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION way asta C pleasure

Sound, the body of water east of life. There are some, however, Honiara’s main port. who spend their days diving on It’s about 500 metres from nearby wrecks and at night swim Fatboys Resort, on Mbabanga The fish we catch become dinner, cooked with the apparently friendly covey Island near Gizo in the country’s whole and local style on a fire covered of reef sharks. Western Province, to verdant with stone-like chinks of broken coral. The water under the bar is home Kennedy Island. After taking a to hundreds of beautifully coloured boat from Fatboys I take on a fish, and in this free-ranging circumnavigation (sort of) while aquarium guests can watch staff from the resort begin to cook The name, Fatboys, is taken around eating, sleeping and making through, or dive into, waters clean lunch on a wood-fired barbecue. from the character Joe in Charles every attempt to avoid work. as a child’s conscience. Lobster tails, Spanish mackerel and Dickens’ novel The Pickwick The resort does its best to coconuts are on the menu. Papers. Fatboy’s life revolves encourage visitors to indulge in this

November – December 2017 43 TRAVELLER OUR REGION Castaway pleasure

Some of the divers and feel guilty – it took a sweatless snorkellers may be ridiculously five minutes to walk around the active, but I can do a fine Fatboy perimeter of the island. impression. For this it makes sense The Spanish floated by the to blame someone or something, Solomon Islands in the 16th and in the Solomons food might be century. The name they applied to the most obvious scapegoat. The this congress of islands was nicked servings of tuna, lobster, calamari from the story of King Solomon and desserts are lavish. in the bible: explorer Alvaro de JFK reportedly dined on coconuts Mendana was, according to local and a cache of Japanese sweets lore, given an egg-shaped chunk and tinned water – castaway of gold. treasures for sure, but not quite Now the Western Province sleep inducing. After the barbecue is considered the jewel of the lunch I seek refuge in a hammock country. The riches that de on the island and dreamily think of Mendana thought he would dig a president, this formative episode up never eventuated, yet the in his life, exhaustedly swimming fact is apposite now because kilometres at night looking for other the Solomons is rich in part for PT boats and rescue. And yes I what it does not have.

Going with the flow ... a peaceful paddle for a young local.

44 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION Castaway pleasure

The islands are free of garish sleep in. No one else is staying on resorts. The word ‘resort’, when the island apart from our huddle applied to the Solomons, connotes of campers. thatched roofs, rooms without All of this, bar the fish on the TV or Wi-Fi. This is part of the end of our lines, is organised by country’s appeal and even in the an extraordinarily accommodating Western Province a ‘resort’ is an man called Billy, the tour supervisor exception rather than rule. at Agnes Gateway Hotel, a village- We have a castaway experience owned hotel just a three-minute on Hopei Island. No-one lives on walk from Munda Airport. this small island off Munda (about Near to Hopei and Munda, a 50-minute flight north-west of we snorkel to more deserted Honiara). islands and around a Japanese The fish we catch become dinner, fighter laying in about four metres cooked whole and local style on of water. Diving skills aren’t a fire covered with stone-like necessary to explore some of the accoutrements of war slowly being forest since 2002. He has more chinks of broken coral that swiftly islands’ World War 2 wrecks. ravaged by time and jungle. We than 1000 pieces. readies the fish and cassava. Earlier, Billy had taken us on visit a village museum curated by a Billy also takes us to Rendova, the We encounter a small amount of a walking tour east of Munda, man who has been collecting war island from which the Americans phosphorescence in shallow water where he showed us abandoned artefacts – from dog tags and saki launched an assault to defeat just metres from the tent we will American landing craft and other bottles to plane engines – from the Japan’s Munda stronghold. Enroute

Solomon sights ... (from left) war relics, Fatboys Resort, a deserted beach.

46 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION Castaway pleasure

countenance. They blend furniture made from timbers that could have been collected from beachcomber strolls to thatched roofs, a waterfront setting and the over-hanging coconut trees. During our many small boat trips we stop to swim, admire coral reefs and marvel at water as beautiful as the effortlessly welcoming nature of the locals we meet. to Rendova, about 40 minutes by are the only imposition upon the We had arrived at Fatboys small boat from Munda, we’re on water-edge mangroves. after an anticipated two-hour, the lookout for dolphins, fail in our Titiru and Hopei are not the only commuter-style, boat ride became quest but happen upon Titiru Eco- escapes that’ll rekindle fantasy. a perfect four-hour journey. lodge, a hideaway within a cove Oravae Cottages, north-west of The first detour of the day where two over-water bungalows Gizo, have a Swiss Family Robinson was to Skull Island.

November – December 2017 47 TRAVELLER OUR REGION Castaway pleasure

Port Rabaul Moresby Lobster is served ... food is one of the delights of the Solomon Islands.

Just off its shores, we waited was ultimately reacquainted with on board while the wonderfully his Rendova base after locals enthusiastic Billy asked permission delivered a message he had carved from his ancestors for our group into a coconut shell. Gizo to enter the island. After his rescue, Kennedy was Hopei Island Munda After wading through shallow reunited with the shell, had it S O Rendova Island L O M Honiara water we see up close the human encased and reportedly used it as a O N remains that give the island its paperweight in the Oval Office. The I S L A N name. Head hunting was practised message read in part: ‘11 ALIVE … D S by Billy’s forebears. NEED SMALL BOAT ...’ 0 Km 400 Soon after, we stop at Zipolo JFK’s castaway ordeal lasted Habu Resort, a place popular seven days, the same length with fishermen, divers and expat of time as my visit. While our families based in Honiara. Not circumstances couldn’t be more surprisingly there are village-loads different, we do have something of locals and expats who believe else in common. Just thinking NEED TO KNOW that tourism is the Solomon’s about the Solomon Islands STAYING THERE Rooms at Fatboys Resort start future. can make visitors hunger for from $S1560 a night; $S1770 at Titiru Eco-lodge; JFK was tortured by tides during a small boat. $S1800 at Oravae; and $S300 at Agnes Gateway marathon swimming efforts to Hotel. rescue himself and his crew. He MORE INFORMATION visitsolomons.com.sb, facebook.com/titiru.ecolodge, oravaecottage.com, agneshotelsolomon.com Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Honiara five times weekly. See airniugini.com.pg.

48 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

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Aussie beach getaway

Mary O’Brien checks into a funky boutique hotel where everything is done with a designer flourish.

alcyon House has been turning Design fans have been coming in droves decorated with beautiful English fabrics. Local heads since it opened in 2015 and it’s to ogle over the luxe retro Hollywood-style craftspeople produced many of the lamps and easy to see why. Deemed ‘Australia’s interiors. A blue-and-white design theme lends restored the vintage pieces. The bathrooms Hmost Instagrammable hotel’, the a Mediterranean touch but this is at heart a truly have handmade floor tiles and marble personality-plus beach getaway stands out Australian surfside retreat. washstands and, of course, everything is put from the pack. No wonder Brisbane designer Anna Spiro and together with a designer flourish. A former modest surfer motel, Halcyon House architect Virginia Kerridge have won a plethora The jewel in the crown is the ’60s California- is a beautifully decked out boutique hotel on of awards for their work here. The retro hotel style pool, framed by a terrace with striped the beach in northern NSW, just 15 minutes’ is the dream child of sisters Siobhan and Elisha lounges. drive from the Gold Coast airport and about two Bickle who own several hospitality places in Extra little touches to win over guests hours from Brisbane, where Air Niugini flies six Brisbane, including Bunk backpackers hostel. include surfboards, bicycles (blue, of course) times a week. For those who like to stay in a unique property, and an onsite Audi that can be hired on a The hotel recently won Gourmet Traveller’s Halcyon House’s 21 rooms fit the bill. Each daily basis. best service award, mainly thanks to the team overlooks the pool or ocean and is individually One of its big drawcards is the picture-perfect headed by general manager Mauro De Riso. In decorated with treasures from far and near. two-hatted restaurant, Paper Daisy, right beside January, it was named the best Mr & Mrs Smith Some vintage pieces were bought on a trip to the beach and pool. Not only does it look pretty Hotel and last year it won the 2016 Conde Nast the US while antique seascapes were collected with its blue-and-white wicker chairs but the Traveller Hot List Award. from around Australia. The bedroom walls are food’s excellent, too, thanks to Ben Devlin, who

50 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

MORE GREAT DESIGN HOTELS ON AIR NIUGINI’S The jewel in FLIGHT PATH

the crown is SHANGHAI* – the ’60s WATERHOUSE AT SOUTH BUND California- Chinese architects Neri & Hu transformed style pool, a 1930’s former framed by a Japanese army building into one of terrace with Shanghai’s most chic hotels. Housed in the industrial shell are 19 striped rooms, a restaurant and rooftop bar. The hotel, lounges. on the old side of the Huangpu River, contains designer furniture and some of owner Loh Lik Peng’s personal art collection. Maojiayan Road Nº 1-3, Zhongshan Road South, Huangpu District, Shanghai, waterhouseshanghai.com *Air Niugini is scheduled to start Shanghai flights in March. TOKYO – CLASKA

Halcyon House … an award-winning Australian hotel Tokyo’s original design hotel, Claska, has 20 with a stunning ‘60s bedrooms, artists’ studios, a design shop California-style pool. and bicycles. Japanese design fans will love the minimalist rooms, including three special DIY rooms by local designers. Off the beaten track in Meguro Dori, the mid-priced hotel’s was the Brisbane Good Food Guide young chef coastal walk from the main beach around to restaurant and rooftop deck are popular. of the year in 2014. Norries Headland past remnant rainforest for 1 Chome-3-18 Chuocho, Meguro, Tokyo, The 90-seater restaurant focuses on regional knockout views – also a good place to spot claska.com and coastal ingredients in keeping with its whales in the right season. HONG KONG – HOTEL ICON seaside location. The paperbark grilled fish, Owned by Hong Kong Merimbula oysters Polytechnic University, and kangaroo loin are Hotel Icon provides worth sampling. training for hospitality Cabarita Beach NEED TO KNOW students but this was an undiscovered doesn’t stop it from STAYING THERE being rich in design kudos. The vertical garden, gem before Halcyon Halcyon House is near Gold Coast Airport and an impressive wall of plants in the lobby, House came has 21 individually designed rooms from about was planned by botanist Patrick Blanc while along. It’s a sleepy $AUD600 a night for a couple. the Market restaurant and club lounge were designed by Conran & Partners. The designer beachside village on MORE INFORMATION the shores of a great halcyonhouse.com.au suite by Vivienne Tam is a knockout. surf beach with no 17 Science Museum Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong, hotel-icon.com high-rise towers. Step out onto the

November – December 2017 51 TRAVELLER OUR REGION PICTURES: JNTO & SHAUN MITTWOLLEN, SHAUN PICTURES: & JNTO HOLIDAYS NOZAWA

A winter blast … (clockwise from main) skiing at Nozawa Onsen; snow all around, steaming hot springs, the Bullet Train. A yen for snow Carolyn Beasley skis in fluffy powder snow and gets herself into hot water at a Japanese ski resort.

s I stop my skis on my balaclava, I’m grinning from the exposed ridgetop, ear to ear. a startling blue sky I’m in the traditional Japanese Athreatens to engulf me. village of Nozawa Onsen, a town On both sides, trees cling to steep of around 4000 people, 260 drop-offs, almost groaning under kilometres north-west of Tokyo. the weight of fresh snow. All types of skier are catered for Before me, a ski run aptly named here, with an elevation of 1650 ‘Skyline’ beckons. Mid-way metres and around 50 kilometres down, I lean into a left turn and of trails, the longest of which is BULLET TRAIN each station offering regional descend to the top of a pristine 10 kilometres. The most exciting way to arrive specialities. My favourite is in a valley. Undisturbed snow glitters Snowboarders test their skills in Nozawa Onsen is by bullet box styled as a mini bullet train. – I am the first to ski here today. in the two-kilometre snow park train (Shinkansen) from Tokyo. While I eat, the suburbs of Tokyo Exhilarated, I plunge through including a box, rail, half-pipe and But before leaving Tokyo Station, morph into rural countryside, and untouched powder, down the wave. Aside from great skiing, many travellers have only one imposing, snow-capped Mount Fuji silent slope, trees sliding by in a Nozawa Onsen offers unique and thing on their mind: ekibens. These flies by at 320 kilometres per hour. blur. Arriving in the village below, cultural experiences. are bento box meals, specifically In just one hour and 40 minutes, I’m high on adrenaline and under packaged as train munchies, with I’m pulling in to Iiyama Station.

52 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

I plunge through untouched powder, down the silent slope, trees sliding by in a blur.

TRADITIONAL RYOKAN wood-fired heater. The ryokan NAKED WITH LOCALS decking and washing with soap It’s a more sedate, 20-minute rooms are basic, but the futon The town has been famous for before entering. taxi ride from Iiyama station to mattress on the tatami mat floor its hot springs since the eighth No clothing or swimwear is Furusato Lodge, my ryokan, a proves more comfortable than it century. The village has 13 allowed. I’m prudish at first, but traditional Japanese guesthouse. looks, and the shared bathroom is community owned, free onsens made to feel welcome by an The host family’s father greets immaculately clean. The ryokan has and many locals bathe here daily. elderly local, and through sign me, smiling and bowing, pouring its own natural spring water hot Considerate tourists follow onsen language, she demonstrates how me a cup of homemade alcoholic tubs known as onsens, one for men etiquette, including removing to add cold water before easing in sake straight from the pot on the and one for women. shoes before walking on wooden to the hot onsen.

November – December 2017 53 TRAVELLER OUR REGION A yen for snow

Soon I’m happily soaking with dumplings containing apple and other naked bathers, feeling tired cinnamon, red beans or spicy beef. muscles unwind. Meanwhile, thirsty visitors kick LOCAL DELICACIES snow off their boots at the Craft Another tradition embraced here Room, charging up on great coffee is food. Many restaurants offer or a sneaky craft beer. just a few tables, specialising SNOW MONKEYS in one type of food. Fortissimo For a break from the slopes, take offers home cooking like crumbed a half-day excursion to visit wild, pork tonkatsu, served beside the fluffy snow monkeys in Jigokudani family’s piano. Osaka Tonkichi has Monkey Park. Get the camera okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake ready for the moment they plunge featuring yam flour, cabbage, egg into their own hot water onsen, and pork belly or shrimp, topped playing and grooming each other with sweet brown sauce and happily in the steamy water. Japanese mayonnaise. At a stall in the main street, chilly tourists are warmed by steamed

Soaking it in … snow monkeys relaxing in the warm water at Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Tokyo twice a week. See airniugini.com.pg.

NEED TO KNOW SKIING THERE Nozawa Holidays (nozawaholidays. com) has seven-day packages including. accommodation, breakfast and lift passes at Furusato Lodge from ¥75,000 a person. Snow monkey tours from ¥5,800 an adult. GETTING THERE Train from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station. Catch the bullet train to Iiyama Station. MORE INFORMATION nozawa-onsen.com

54 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION

Light show ... Singapore's Gardens By The Bay, with the Marina Bay Sands hotel in the background. PICTURE: STILIYANOV MILEN

56 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

SingaporeCity guide: Paul Chai writes that there’s a lot to love about the Lion City, from hawker food and temples redolent with incense, to speakeasy bars and spectacular new buildings and architectural installations.

ften an island of or discover new craft beers Chinese temples redolent with brands, or visit a tiny offshore extremes, in Singapore at a hawker stall. You can see incense. You can shop the island that seems lost in you can sip cocktails in gleaming new steel buildings labyrinthine commercial hub time. The Lion City is hard to Osumptuous surrounds overshadowing timeworn of Orchard Road for designer categorise but easy to love.

November – December 2017 57 TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Singapore

Street appeal ... (from left) Orchard Road is packed with shops, including Tangs, which sells local fashion brands; Singapore Zoo; hawker food.

GETTING AROUND SIGHTS a modern-day hawker market SINGAPORE SPECIAL Singapore is simple to get around Strolling Singapore’s harbour is founded by food blogger and Singapore’s hawker centres whether you jump on the extensive a popular pastime where you street food expert KF Seetoh. Each and coffee shops are the best MRT rail system, hail one of the can find Gardens By The Bay stall here has been handpicked bargain in town. This is street food world’s cheapest (and most (gardensbythebay.com.sg), by Seetoh for being the best at Singapore-style where the stalls reliable) taxis, or grab a bus to a neatly curated park that is home what they do and it is the place have a rating from A to C (most just about anywhere. The island to huge greenhouses like the Cloud to indulge in a ‘greatest hits’ of are As and Bs and very hygienic) is also proud of its kilometres Forest, packed full of tropical Singaporean street food: chicken and plates of food cost as little of covered walkways to protect plants. rice, Hokkien prawn mee (noodles) as a few dollars. Specialties residents from the frequent tropical The harbour is home to or the city-state’s famous include char kuay teow (fried downpours. Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront chilli crab. noodles), bak kuh teh (a peppery Ave; marinabaysands.com), the The Singapore Zoo (zoo.com.sg) pork bone soup) or roti prata famous hotel, Skypark (with that is also a must, the free-range (Indian flatbread served with a rooftop infinity pool packed full of zoo sees monkeys swinging curry sauce to dip it in). Try the selfie takers), casino, theatre and overhead, gets you inside a cage app/website ‘Makansutra’ to find high-end shops. with sloths, bats and lemurs and the most revered stalls, or just join In the shadow of the hotel the River Safari offers pandas and the longest queues. is Makansutra Gluttons Bay, aquatic life.

58 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Singapore

CULTURE VULTURE early Peranakan lives with displays with lunchtime meetings, or tangs.com) does a strong line in The oldest museum in the city- highlighting the ornate clothing, city workers grabbing a morning local fashion brands. state, the National Museum of early furniture and ancestral coffee at Australian coffee chain Far East Plaza, off the main Singapore (93 Stamford Road; portraits of the early straits Dimbulah (30 Raffles Place, strip on Scotts Road, attracts a nationalmuseum.sg) tells the story Chinese. #01-31; dimbulahcoffee.com). younger, hipper crowd in search of of Singapore’s nation building And it may be a cliche that Asian designers and if you must go through exhibitions, art and video DOING BUSINESS Singapore is big on rules, but being international, ION Orchard, shaped installations. Singapore’s central business tardy to a business meeting is like a spaceship, is full of well- At the Peranakan Museum (39 district is located around the frowned upon so make sure you known upscale brands. Armenian St; peranakanmuseum. bustling skyscrapers of Raffles are on time. Island-wide, keep an eye out org.sg) visitors can learn about Place, named after Singapore’s for Charles & Keith (charleskeith. the way of life of the Peranakan founder, Sir Stamford Raffles. It RETAIL THERAPY com) stores, a footwear and people, a cultural mix of Chinese has been the commercial centre The shopping strip of Orchard Road handbag brand that was started and Malay as well as other regional since the 19th century and is home can see you lost for days in the by Singaporean siblings Charles influences. The museum is set in to most of the city’s businesses. tunnels, connected walkways and and Keith Wong and is now world an old school building from You’ll find the restaurants of mega-malls but keep an eye out famous. 1912 and offers an nearby Boat Quay for local shops. Tangs department insight into full to bursting store (Tangs Plaza, Orchard Road;

ESCAPE With less than 50 residents, who are outnumbered by the wild boars, the island of Pulau Ubin is a time capsule of how Singapore used to look. Known as ‘Singapore’s last kampong (village)’, you can take the 10-minute ferry across to the island from Changi where you will see locals cycling by with crabs tied to the front of their bikes and day trippers taking walking tours of the island’s lush vegetation. When you arrive back on the main island you are a short walk from the thriving Changi hawker centre – try the black carrot cake.

60 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Singapore

EATS heritage, Banana Leaf One of the hottest new openings Apolo (48 Serangoon Road; of late is Atlas (Parkview Square, thebananaleafapolo.com) in Little 600 North Bridge Road; atlasbar. India is the best spot for a simple sg) which revamped its menu curry; the fish head curry is one in August to feature dishes like of the country’s most underrated crispy prawn heads, cod skin dishes. and sawagani crab and wagyu Housed in a four-storey 1930’s beef knuckle steak. Chef Daniele shophouse, Potato Head Folk (36 Sperindio says the new dishes Keong Saik Road; ptthead.com) reflect the restaurant’s opulent art is an Indonesian brand with an deco surrounds. eye for whimsical design. This is First timers to the island have a great place to eat, with Three to sample Singaporean chilli crab, Buns Dining Kitchen pumping out check out Jumbo Seafood or No burgers like the Smokin’ B-Boy Signboard seafood, both of which burger (beef patty, double-smoked have multiple outlets across the cheese, beer and treacled cured island. bacon, and barbecue For a taste of tomato sauce and mayo). PILLOW TALK Singapore’s Indian With most of Raffles Hotel closed for a major refurbishment until the second quarter of 2018, get some new-school glamour at W Singapore on the tiny island of Sentosa (21 Ocean Way; wsingaporesentosacove.com). It features cutting-edge design and famous weekend pool parties. Budget conscious or small business travellers will love Hotel Clover Jalan Sultan (33 Jalan Sultan; hotelclover.com), part of a local chain that celebrates heritage buildings and is walking distance from Singapore’s Arab Quarter. Back at the luxury end, the So Sofitel (35 Robinson Road; accorhotels. com) fuses French style in a modern building that is located right near the central business district.

Eat, see, stay ... (clockwise from top left, opposite page) the National Museum; Hotel Clover; wagyu knuckle at new eatery, Atlas; Pulau Ubin island, Singapore's last kampong village; a boardwalk on the island.

PROVIDING A NEW STANDARD OF AEROMEDICAL EVACUATION SERVICES ACROSS PNG. www.medicair.com.pg

November – December 2017 61 TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Singapore

WATERING HOLES rage The 1925 (369 Jalan Besar; The city loves a good cocktail and the1925.com.sg) is one of is part of the worldwide craft beer Singapore’s new microbreweries revolution. with homemade brews on tap Junior The Pocket Bar by The like The Yellow Van. Or head to Proof Collective (facebook.com/ Druggists (119 Tyrwhitt Road; JuniorThePocketBar) started facebook.com/DruggistsSG), a as a pop-up bar, but now has a 23-tap craft beer bar that has permanent base at 43 Tanjong a mosaic floor and constantly Pagar Road. One of the original changing tap selection – the name speakeasies, 28 Hong Street (28 comes from the Singapore Chinese Hong Street, Chinatown; 28hks. Druggists Association who share com) has no sign, just a light the building. hanging over a yellow door. Head Singapore loves a good cocktail ... the Junior Air Niugini flies from Port through an antechamber and you bar (above); a Mexican-themed concoction at Moresby to Singapore will find a dark and intimate space . Junior bar (left). five times a week. With boutique beers all the See airniugini.com.pg. singapore POPULATION: 5.6 million TAXI FARE FROM AIRPORT: INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +65 LANGUAGE: English/Mandarin/Malay/Tamil Taxi’s are affordable and reliable. It costs POWER: UK style plug, 220V/2240V about $SG20–30 to get to the city centre. CURRENCY: Singapore dollar

62 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION A surfing mecca for all With new five-star beachfront suites, Bali’s renowned surfing resort Hotel Komune caters for everyone – from Kelly Slater to those who have never seen a surfboard in their lives. Bronwen Gora reports. t is with some trepidation I arrive at by the pool. Whether I Komune resort on Bali’s east coast. feel like a cocktail or a Renowned as a surfer’s holiday paradise protein smoothie, there is Iopposite a world-famous break, I had always a menu to suit, and always assumed it was no place for a Komune’s two restaurants beginner surfer – especially a woman. offer an extensive list of How wrong I was. deliciousness, from salads A surfing mecca it may be, but Komune to Indonesian classics and is also a lovely resort, so cleverly designed Western-style meals, much as to cater easily for everyone from of the produce plucked fresh families with rowdy children to frazzled from the organic gardens professionals needing peace and quiet throughout its grounds.

64 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION A surfing mecca for all

There is even, to my delight, a beginner’s surf break a little further along the beach fronting Komune – a comfortable distance away

The adults-only health hub, surrounded by tropical gardens, comprises a large restaurant and bar, three yoga pavilions, a gym with surfing simulator, and a sparkling 25-metre lap pool.

Luxe living ... Komune's villas are roomy, comprising separate living pavilions and up to two pools.

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Port Moresby Lae Kimbe Kokopo Madang Mt. Hagen Warehouse & HO Cnr Malaita & San Remo Dr, Karmuk St, Kaislan Ave, Okuk Hwy, Wards Rd, Hohola Malekula St, Lae Kimbe Kokopo Madang Mt. Hagen Ph: (+675) 325 1088 Ph: (+675) 472 3799 Ph: (+675) 983 5500 Ph: (+675) 982 9911 Ph: (+675) 422 1344 Ph: (+675) 545 1990 Fax: (+675) 325 0083 Fax: (+675) 472 6327 Fax: (+675) 983 5306 Fax: (+675) 982 9912 Fax: (+675) 422 1594 Fax: (+675) 545 1019

66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION A surfing mecca for all

Lap of luxury ... the resort's main pool is perched on the beach, offering uninterrupted views of the famous Keramas surf break and the Lombok Strait.

from the front of the resort and the wave so Even the beds are placed so the surf break I feel instantly comfortable. challenging that even world champion Kelly can be viewed from the pillow. Time to explore, and I head out, following Slater rates it as one of the best. While my dorm-style resort room is the stepping-stone paths winding through On my arrival, the friendly smiling staff lead set far back from the beach, among the Komune’s vast landscaped grounds me to my simple resort room. Komune has 66 gardens, and is the lowest rung on Komune’s flourishing with tropical plants. Fancy some four-star rooms and a range of one, two, and accommodation ladder, it is comfortable, retail therapy or pampering? Not a problem. three-bedroom villas. At the end of last year, compact and refreshingly simple. Above the The resort’s boutique is brimming with Komune debuted its first five-star offering, large bed hangs an arty photo-on-canvas of racks of attractive clothes, tasteful souvenirs 22 beautifully appointed beachview suites a cool surfer dude waxing his board. and jewellery. with sun decks and private pools overlooking Adjacent, there is a hair salon that also has the famous Keramas break. massage rooms.

68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION A surfing mecca for all

I spend a few hours in here over the next few days receiving excellent treatments and relaxing afterwards on benches in the gardens with ginger tea. It is impossible not to unwind. Komune’s central pathway leads on through the gardens and organic produce beds to the beachfront and Komune’s beach club area. I can find either a deck chair by the main pool on the left or take up a pew at the circular bar and restaurant. Either place is ideal for taking in a view of the ocean, the surfers, socialising and relaxing. Should I hanker after more serenity I can head back into the grounds and find a spot anywhere within the health hub area. Komune added this area in 2015, two years after it opened, and in my opinion it is one of the best features and a major reason why I’ll go back

All the trappings ... beachfront suites with plunge pools are Komune's newest level of accommodation. Designer furnishing help create the full five-star effect.

70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION A surfing mecca for all

The adults-only domain is surrounded by Komune offers up little surprises here and there tropical gardens, as well, such as the duck parade that takes comprises a large restaurant and bar, three yoga place almost every afternoon on the beachfront pavilions, a gym with surfing simulator, and a when a local farmer shepherds his feathered sparkling 25-metre lap pool surrounded by large charges along the shore, much to the delight of lounges. The pool also has a shallow area filled guests having afternoon cocktails by the pool. with a row of partially submerged deck chairs so one can enjoy the sunshine. Pure luxury. Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Bali weekly. I order a soul and body-restoring meal of See airniugini.com.pg. grilled prawns, salad, and a freshly squeezed juice made from organic vegetables harvested on-site. NEED TO KNOW The next morning I STAYING THERE rise with extra zing for Resort rooms start at around $US90 per night, yoga with Komune’s beachfront pool suites $US200 and two-bedroom Nicole Cain, a passionate villas $US350. The hotel is about 40 minutes (in light traffic) from Bali’s airport. and experienced yogi who reignites my own MORE INFORMATION komuneresorts.com Carving it up … Bali’s famous enthusiasm for the Keramas surf break. ancient IndianNCS practice. half-page ad - B • 185x120 Paradise Magazine 7914.1216

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To learn more about how we can assist you Administration Food preparation Full service Laundry and Supply and in meeting your challenges, please contact us: and management and service off-site catering cleaning services warehousing Corporate events Phone (675) 302 1500 Fax (675) 302 1581 Accommodation In-camp catering Hospitality IT and systems and functions [email protected] www.ncs.com.pg and housekeeping management Full service Leisure and services Security NCS is part of the Anitua group. Contract staffi ng on-site catering retail facilities

72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION STREET CRED Penny Watson takes a wander down Sydney’s fashionable Kensington Street.

hippendale’s Kensington It’s not obvious which came Station, has been transformed turned respectfully into an art Street in Sydney, first, but the combination is a into an inviting mix of intriguingly deco-inspired retro 40s cocktail Australia, is a hip new winner for Air Niugini passengers new and lovingly old. bar – with all the heritage Cdowntown destination in Sydney. This once dead-end The boutique hotel, opened features intact. and the Old Clare Hotel is the of town, with vacant industrial in 2015, is the street’s most Two restaurants, Jason cool boutique charmer at its buildings and a whiff of being too notable landmark. It’s the Atherton’s Kensington Street heart centre. close to the grunginess of Central creative vision of Loh Lik Peng, Social, and hatted restaurant, the Singaporean founder and Automata, attract foodies from owner of Unlisted Collection far and wide. hotels, who took two iconic The rest of the street is ARTHUR STRACHAN LTD heritage-listed buildings – the continually evolving. Red lantern- Your Partners in Real Estate & PNG – Since 1967 former Clare Hotel pub and the lit laneway Spice Alley, a hawker- Carlton and United Breweries style food strip selling Hong administration building – and Kong and Cantonese cuisine, For property advise joined them by a glass link-way. has been book-ended by Holy in Lae, Madang, Highlands The 62-room and suite hotel Duck, a Chinese street diner and retains the charm of old while burger joint. At the other, queue- & Islands of PNG embracing the eccentricities of inducing Koi Desert bar has an the hip and new. Its ground level, Asian-inspired menu where the street-accessible venues have flavours of savoury and sweet • Real Estate Agents been designed to put guests are harmoniously balanced. • Property Sales - Residential, among locals. Kensington Contemporary, The former indie rock pub a gallery for emerging and Commercial & Industrial (a favourite for the area’s many established artists, resides in • Auctioneers • Valuers university students) has been one of the street’s beautifully

+675 472 1255 6th Street, Lae PO Box 118 Lae This once dead-end of town, with vacant Facsimile: +675 472 1103 Morobe Province industrial buildings and a whiff of being too close to the grunginess of Central Email: [email protected] Station, has been transformed. Website: www.arthurstrachan.com.pg

74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

Walkabout … (from left, opposite page) pedestrian-friendly Kensington Street; the dining room at the Social restaurant; an Old Clare bedroom.

sculpture, and One Central Park, a new-age building with a cantilevered heliostat and green walls with 250 native plants. Specialising in contemporary Chinese art, White Rabbit Gallery is one of more than a dozen arty havens hidden in the leafy Chippendale streets. If you’re hungry, Ester and LP’s Quality Meats are local hits, and don’t restored two-storey terraces, artisan cobbler EOD, dedicated to door style, or sit and sip like you go past the Persian love cakes at while a lovely row of colonial stylish shoes with an emphasis would in a wine bar. Brickfields bakery. worker’s cottages has (long- on comfort. Not far from Kensington term) pop-ups including Kakawa Further along the street Street, Chippendale Green is an Air Niugini flies from Chocolates, specialising in Handpicked Cellar Door is a new urban renewal project featuring Port Moresby to Sydney single origin chocolate from winery concept where visitors Jennifer Turpin and Michael three times a week. Madagascar to Venezuela, and can taste and buy wine cellar- Crawford’s Halo, a huge kinetic See airniugini.com.pg.

November – December 2017 75 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY BY KATHLEEN PRIOR

REVIEW: RABAUL HOTEL rabaulhotel.com.pg +675 982 1999

WHO STAYS? Tourists, business people, prime ministers and even Prince Andrew. HOW BIG? 40 keys. COST Backpacker, twin and double rooms start at PGK220. Deluxe rooms overlooking PRIOR KATHLEEN PICTURE: the garden are PGK385, and executive king suites with balcony are PGK440. CHECK IN and out 2pm / 11am Highlights Owner Susie McGrade beams loveliness and the place hums with her vivacity. The hotel can put you in touch with local tour organiser Albert, who provides bespoke days out and hilarious chatter. NEARBY Within walking distance to the market, supermarkets and ATMs. Also 20 metres to the bus stop providing access to attractions such as Rabaul Volcano Observatory, Rabaul Peace Memorial, Rabaul Museum and volcanoes. LOCATION in the ROOMS Once a hive of activity, the town of Rabaul was Rooms are bright, spacious and fully furnished. Wi-Fi: evacuated and destroyed by volcanic eruptions My executive king room came with a mirrored Fee for Wi-Fi: in 1994. Now, it’s popular for stunning scenery dressing table, as well as a sofa and coffee TV: and beaches, with scuba diving and snorkelling table. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer views one of its tourist allures. of the tropical coast. Bathrooms are clean Air conditioning in room: THE PLACE and there is endless hot water. Tea and Ceiling fan: coffee-making facilities are provided, and Established in 1952, Rabaul Hotel is a classic, there is a fridge stocked with chilled water Business centre: with all the old-school charm and a sprinkle and milk. Rooms also include a TV and safety of eccentricity that you’d expect in an older Gym: deposit box. property. Steeped in history, it even harbours Room service: its own secret Japanese war tunnel, more FOOD AND DRINKs Swimming pool: recently used as a wine cellar. Hiding behind In the aptly named Phoenix restaurant, crisp Airport transfers: a humble front is the hotel’s charming and white tablecloths and dimmed lighting create expansive courtyard, complete with an all-year a cosy, elegant ambience. The chef has been Hotel arranges tours: swimming pool and lush lawns. Flowers bloom working for the Rabaul Hotel for decades. Breakfast included in room charge: in the well-tended garden, and the sweet scent He serves Asian-inspired dishes, excellently of frangipani fills the air. executed and in plentiful portions. Above WHAT GUESTS LIKE diners’ heads, is the largest tabu wheel in the “Very good Asian food. Great location close Buildings in cottage cream with navy Pacific, believed worth more than PGK30,000. to the volcano. Friendliness and welcoming woodwork bear a few cracks around the edges Breakfasts are a la carte – the French from owner.” – Booking.com – but this is to be expected, given they’ve toast smothered in maple syrup is highly survived a world war and two major volcanic “Lovely place that feels like home and super- recommended. Fresh fruit smoothies are made explosions. After both eruptions, the Rabaul friendly, helpful staff. Susie is a delight.” to order, and fine local coffee and cafetières Hotel was the first in the town to reopen – TripAdvisor are provided for guests to help themselves. its doors.

76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

Three of a kind … waterfront restaurants

BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT, KU DE TA, BALI, INDONESIA MADAME WU, BRISBANE, MILNE BAY, PNG The chic European-style beach club vibes AUSTRALIA Tucked away in the rainforest about five and spectacular location right on Seminyak It’s hard to take your eyes off the views of minutes’ drive from Alotau town in Milne Beach have kept Ku De Ta humming since it the Brisbane River, Story Bridge and Kangaroo Bay, Driftwood Resort is home to 11 elegant opened 16 years ago. Come for a champagne Point, but you must stay focused because wooden waterfront and garden bungalows, breakfast or grazing lunch on the day beds the modern Asian fusion cuisine served here and one of Papua New Guinea’s best-kept by the pool, or for the electric sunset when really is outstanding. Whether you’re going dining secrets, open to guests and visitors the restaurant morphs into a relaxed a la for dumplings or duck, you’ll also be wanting both. Set in an open-sided bungalow off the carte venue, complete with candlelight and to try a cocktail – the Sichuan margarita with main building and spilling out onto the jetty, cocktails. Either way, you’ll be treated to warm tequila, ginger liqueur, lime juice and chilli is the Boathouse restaurant and bar serves ocean breezes, cool DJ sets and views of the a standout. up seafood pulled straight from the ocean, ocean and sprawling green lawns framed by SOMETHING SPECIAL fresh local vegetables, juicy steaks, tasty coconut palms. The chic fit-out of Madame Wu, which pizzas and more. SOMETHING SPECIAL uses lots of glass, wood and low lighting SOMETHING SPECIAL This is the Seminyak spot to see and be seen. to slick effect, includes a tree sculpture as The seats out on the jetty are the most Make sure you bring your biggest sunnies to its centrepiece, created especially for the coveted: the water laps beneath you, and maximise your people-watching capabilities. restaurant by Sydney artist Kim Akimovic. dolphins and fish jump out of the water as DON’T MISS THIS DISH DON’T MISS THIS DISH you sup and sip an ice-cold beer or a glass of There’s deliciously delicate sushi and wood- Try wok-fried Moreton Bay bug with XO sauce, white wine from the bar. For a romantic touch, fired pizzas on the menu, but really, the duck and the beef cheeks braised in rock sugar and get there in time to watch the sun set over salad with soba noodles, snow peas, edamame soy, black bean and chilli sauce. The cheeks Milne Bay. and pickled ginger can’t be beaten. Oh, and the are prepared and cooked over three days DON’T MISS THIS DISH yellow-fin tuna ceviche? Order that, too. before being served, so they fall apart in your The menu changes regularly, but the lobster, DETAILS mouth. Truly delicious. tiger prawns, fish and crab are some of the Jalan Kayu Aya, No. 9, Seminyak; kudeta.com. DETAILS freshest you’ll find in the South Pacific. Open 8am to late, daily. Riparian Plaza, 71 Eagle St, Brisbane; Also, they do an excellent local battered fish madamewu.com.au. Open 12pm to late, daily. and chips. DETAILS Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; driftwoodresortpng.com.

November – December 2017 77 Digicelbusiness.com TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Keep Connected to your time traveller Business even when Travelling Central Province, 1960 NAURU After arrival in Papua New Guinea from Australia, 18-year-old cadet patrol officer Chris Warrillow (in hat at centre) was posted PAPUA NEW GUINEA to Kairuku on Yule Island. An early assignment was to travel by motorised double canoe to investigate village unrest. Warrillow relied on locals for guidance, including Bill Bray (crouched over, nursing the outboard motor) and Bera Baupua (standing in white shorts) as primary translator and mediator. The photo FIJI was taken by sergeant major Abel Bonga. VANUATU TONGA — JOHN BROOKSBANK If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@ businessadvantageinternational.com.

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YOUR COMPLETE BUSINESS SOLUTIONS PROVIDER Terms and Conditions apply. If you plan to use Digicel Roaming services for the first time, prior to your trip, please contact your Account Manager or our Corporate Customer Service at 126 to activate your Digicel Global Roaming Service. LIVING LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT

Culture warrior Richard Andrews meets anthropologist and explorer Wade Davis, a true-life Indiana Jones. PICTURES: WADE DAVIS, XANDRU URIBE, MONIQUE GIAUSSERAND In the field ... Wade Davis in Columbia (inset); and one of his photos of Kaningara men dancing in the Middle Sepik River region of PNG.

80 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING ADVENTURE

ated by his students “a knowledge that we need as ‘one of the coolest to preserve”. humans on the planet’, PNG is an old-growth forest of the Davis is also enthralled by RWade Davis is also human mind ancient Melanesian knowledge a celebrated anthropologist, of stars, currents, clouds and explorer, film maker, culture and incubator of human languages. wave patterns. warrior, and even ‘a true-life He sailed the Pacific in Indiana Jones’. a seafaring canoe with Davis describes himself more descendants of navigators modestly as just a storyteller. documentaries such as the where he studied the Sambia who reached the region’s most The Vancouver-based professor critically-acclaimed TV series and Huli communities. remote islands 3000 years ago. has investigated zombies in Haiti, Light at the Edge of the World. “PNG is an old-growth forest of “These young sailors on the lived and hunted with tribes He was a National Geographic the human mind and incubator Hokulea (voyaging canoe) used along the Amazon, and explored explorer-in-residence for 13 of human languages,” he says. their ancestors’ navigation vanishing indigenous cultures years and recently published a “The land is an extraordinary techniques and the skill set is from Borneo to Tibet. collection of photographs from convergence of geography and simply dazzling,” he says. Trained in anthropology his many journeys. culture, with up to a thousand Davis believes climate change and botany at Harvard Davis’ PNG expeditions include languages, or more.” has made it important to learn University, Davis travels the the Trobriand Islands and the Davis regards each of these from other cultures, “to balance globe to document ‘ancient Sepik River, as well as the languages as “a different way ourselves so that we do not wisdom’ in books, articles and Eastern and Southern Highlands, of looking at the world” and destroy what is around us”.

November – December 2017 81 LIVING ADVENTURE Culture warrior

82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING ADVENTURE Culture warrior

Snapshots by Davis “My mission is to change the when accompanying the renowned ... a Huli man applying way the world views and values English author and explorer, pigment to his face in the Tari Valley different cultures,” he says. Sebastian Snow. (far left); a woman The origin of that mission dates By foot, they crossed the Darien gardening near Mount back to the 1950s. Davis was Gap, a remote stretch of swampy Hagen. raised in a middle-class Montreal forest on the border of Panama and suburb in Canada at a time when Colombia. The notorious black zone the mutually suspicious English and has long been home to pirates, French communities often lived in malaria, poisonous snakes and separate areas. armed drug smugglers. “As a youngster I remember Apart from the adventure, looking across Cartier Boulevard, Davis was attracted by the area’s enchanted by the idea that across indigenous groups, rare wildlife and the street was another language, exotic plants. religion and way of being,” he says. Since then, he’s put his survival “My oldest sister fell in love with and botanical skills to good use a francophone boy and shattered by investigating coca growth the boundary. As a result I slipped in Colombia, as part of the US through that line and started government’s efforts to control hanging out in the French-speaking cocaine trafficking. village.” “I’m now working to help At the age of 20, Davis ‘slipped Colombia reposition itself in through’ a more dangerous line the global community after

November – December 2017 83 LIVING ADVENTURE Culture warrior years of agony caused by global study you,’ you say: ‘You know so consumption of cocaine,” he says. much about the plants, I’d like you “The country’s rebounding after to teach me about them.’ Studying years of agony that left 250,000 plants, makes sense to people. people dead and seven million You’re exploring their base of displaced.” knowledge, their wisdom.” Davis argues strongly that According to Davis, building everyone who’s used cocaine “has rapport also involves good manners blood on their hands”. by eating what’s offered to you, “You’ve got young, hip bankers whether its live termites in the in London who donate money Amazon jungle, or barbecued bats to save the rainforests. Yet they in the PNG Highlands. sniff cocaine at night in the bars, “I would eat a plate of food that without realising that every time I knew would give me dysentery,” they use it, they kill an Indian.” he says. “I used to call it the Davis is often asked how he Dysentery Breakfast. As long as it breaks down the barriers when doesn’t kill you, you eat it.” he’s a guest of Indians and other In fact, he’s found that sharing indigenous groups. How do you get food is an important gesture of a shaman to reveal his secrets? friendship in all the cultures he’s His response is very Canadian: studied. He gives the example self-deprecation and politeness. of drinking rice wine in an Iban “Instead of declaring ‘I want to longhouse in Sarawak. Young at heart ... Wade Davis with machete in the Brazilian Amazon in 1983. “I had my head in the lap of this ‘brought back to life’ as zombies. wonderful local woman who kept Davis published his investigations pouring wine into my mouth. I into zombies and voodoo culture didn’t want to get drunk and have in a controversial book called The a hangover in the tropics, but she Serpent and the Rainbow. It sold said: ‘You must drink it. This is not well and inspired a Hollywood wine this is our love.’ And kept horror flick of the same name. pouring.” Now in his mid-60s, Davis still Nevertheless, there have travels rough and is planning been some limits to what Davis further adventures, including will drink. During the 1980s he making a documentary in rural investigated claims that Haitian Tibet. witchdoctors could keep people “A lot of people my age are in a pharmacologically-induced thinking about retirement,” he trance for many years by slipping says. “But I’ve never had a job and them a tetrodotoxin poison derived am still thinking about what I’ll do from the puffer fish. when I grow up.“ Reports said the poison brought on a state of apparent death that could fool a physician. And the so-called ‘dead’ could later be

Wade Davis Photographs is available at amazon. com. In the book, Davis has selected 150 of his favourite photos from a lifetime of exploring.

84 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING FASHION

The first time she wore one of her creations into town it created a controversy. Onlookers thought she was crazy.

BILUMS, WITH A TWIST

Sandhya Dusk Nand reports on the colourful creations of Florence Jaukae Kamel, aka Bilum Meri.

apua New Guinea is a It is because of Jaukae Kamel that bilum now land of surprises. What you means the cloth that the bags are woven out expect is not what you get. So of, instead of (just) the bags. Pit goes with the bilum weaving Jaukae Kamel first showcased her creations of Florence Jaukae Kamel. The Goroka in 2000 at the Miss PNG pageant and has mother of five has started a stylish evolution gone on to show collections at by weaving bilum dresses. the respected Stella Runway, The first time she wore one of her creations exhibited at the Gallery of into town it created a controversy. Onlookers tradition she had learned from her Modern Art in Queensland, thought she was crazy. You don’t wear a bilum, grandmother. Australia, given talks at Raffles College of Design you carry it. Put food in it. She was always drawn to fashion, par for in Sydney, taught and showcased her skills at The bilum is a way of life in PNG, as ubiquitous the course for a weaving artist, and this time the London College of Design, and at Parsons, and practical a companion as a handbag is to fate guided her hands to weave a dress instead a prestigious design school in New York. an urbanite. In the past, bilum mainly meant the of a bag. She is the managing director and principal bag worn on a woman’s head to signify that she She wanted to shake the establishment artist of Jaukae Bilum Products and the is married, and now it is used widely as a bag and look good doing it, so she made more founder of the Goroka Bilum Weavers carried over the shoulder. dresses, other bilum creations, and wore them Cooperative (established in 2003 to share Jaukae Kamel had gone through an emotional everywhere. The ‘controversy’ spread far and the success of the business and help less marriage breakup when she turned to her wide. Soon after, she started receiving orders fortunate women) as well as the Goroka Bilum roots and found comfort in weaving bilum, a and an industry was born. Festival, which she started in 2009. PICTURES: SANDHYA DUSK NAND

86 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING FASHION

On parade … the colourful bilum dresses created by Florence Jaukae Kamel. She’s pictured below.

As savvy a businesswoman as group, Among Equals (see next page), a she is a designer, Jaukae Kamel social enterprise focusing on empowering held her first festival just before disadvantaged women and their families. the popular Goroka Show, to Jaukae Kamel creates bilum dresses, take advantage of the influx hats and scarves in a variety of colours, of tourists. patterns and materials (traditionally She also invited Pacific Trade plant fibres but now wool) depending Invest to see what she was on the tastes and budget of the doing. With the agency’s help buyer. she was able to hire other Her creations are all over the women to help her weave world, worn by fashionistas and the business grew. and fashion editors alike. Her Since then, she has been wearable art has made her the face in demand as a trainer, of contemporary PNG fashion. as a designer and as a She now aims to open an online motivational speaker. shop and to create more job Prior to last opportunities for women. September’s Bilum Festival, Bilum bags becoming a trendy Jaukae Kamel was in Sydney as fashion accessory around the a liaison weaver with Australian world, see next page.

November – December 2017 87 LIVING FASHION

The PNG woven bags have been discovered by socially conscious fashionistas around the world who want something unique.

Pacific Island trade fair in work. "I realised these were sell-out. The bags were Sydney in 2014. A month women telling their stories originally only available later she travelled to PNG, and it wasn’t about me or online but Sherman is IN where she realised the my idea of what a story now liaising with stores women’s conditions were should be,” she says. in Los Angeles, New basic and they needed a Sherman works York and London to THE way to earn money. with 100 women in stock Among Equals Sherman founded four areas: Goroka, bilum bags. Among Equals, a social Mount Hagen, Madang See BAG enterprise, in 2015 to and Sepik. amongequals. com.au. Bilums are catching on around the world, thanks to a social enterprise called Among Equals, The women weavers … each bilum bag they make is individually handwoven. which channels Pom poms are added to give the bags a modern look. profits back to market the bags online, She hopes in five years and 100 per cent of she will be working with the makers. the profit goes back 500 women. Mary O’Brien to the community. The money raised Each bag by Among Equals reports. is different, has helped to handwoven using build a safe very bag tells a different natural fibre, house for the story. From carry all to coloured wool or women. marriage symbol to fashion acrylic fibre. Back The Blue Eitem, bilum bags are hot in Sydney, Sherman adds pom Haus has right now. poms, tassels or amulets as a electricity, running water, The Papua New Guinean woven contemporary twist. a concrete floor and bags have been discovered by “The bags are beautiful and, walls and the women can socially conscious fashionistas once you hear the story, each one go there to cook, sleep, around the world who want is like an art work; the more you weave or take shelter. something unique. know the more enriching it is,” A recent exhibition Australian textile designer says Sherman. of the bags at Caroline Sherman fell in love with She originally asked the women Koskela Gallery bilum bags during a visit to a to follow her designs but it didn’t in Sydney was a

88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING CULTURE

A PIECE OF PNG: GARAMUTS

WHAT ARE THEY? made and played by numerous chamber of the drums produces a The drums used today by Garamuts are slit-drums or gongs, cultures around the country. loud sound when the top surface performance troupes are often traditional musical instruments Carved from a log, the hollow is struck. Garamut is a pidgin brightly painted. word, derived from a Kuanua term HOW WERE GARAMUTS meaning ‘long drum’. USED TRADITIONALLY? WHERE WERE THEY They were played in a variety of TRADITIONALLY MADE ceremonies, celebrations and AND PLAYED? dances, known as sing sings. In They were traditionally made and some areas drums are struck played in regions of coastal and vertically with the end of one or riverine New Guinea, two drumsticks. In other places, from West Sepik such as Manus, they are struck down to Morobe, the repeatedly across the slit with islands of Manus, two smaller drumsticks to create New Britain, New a staccato beat. Garamuts Ireland and the were also traditionally used for North Solomons. communication, for example to They are not found summon people back to the village in the Highlands or from the gardens because of an Papuan regions. important event. In Manus, it is common to have an ensemble of WHO MAKES THEM? garamuts of various sizes – a large Garamuts are manufactured by bass drum almost two metres long men, especially in regions such as held and played vertically, along the Sepik, where they are part of with two or three smaller drums, secret male cult paraphernalia. which depending on their size, HOW ARE THEY MADE? produce sounds of a different pitch. Carved from hardwood, they are WHERE CAN made today using steel hand tools GARAMUTS BE but in the past construction would BOUGHT? have been more time-consuming, Due to their size, shape and bulk using stone axes or adzes to cut, garamuts are not usually made shape and decorate. In simple for the tourist market, although terms, a garamut drum is a occasionally you might be lucky hollowed out wooden cylinder that enough to find a small child’s drum usually has a lug or handle at each that would be more transportable. end, for decoration and to assist These traditional instruments are moving the instrument. still used in ceremonies and by HOW ARE THEY performance groups, so the best DECORATED? place to see them is in villages and The presence, and degree, of rural areas. decoration depends on where the – JOHN BROOKSBANK drum comes from. In the Sepik and Ramu areas, carved and relief decoration of the drum body and handles can be very ornate, reflecting those local cultures.

90 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING RUGBY LEAGUE

PNG’s rugby league fans are widely regarded as the most dedicated and enthusiastic in the world. Passion play With the Rugby League World Cup under way and PNG one of its host nations, Brian Johnston looks at the history of a national obsession.

ugby league isn’t just It finished a reputable second, defeated in the most popular sport the final (38–13) by New Zealand Maori. in Papua New Guinea, It was a long wait after that for the ultimate Rbut something of a triumph, but in 2009 (with PNG again the host mania. The sport is part of nation), the Kumuls took out the tournament the school curriculum, and with a resounding 42–14 victory over the the country’s official national . sport. Over a thousand teams In 1974, PNG became a member of what is are estimated to be grouped into now known as the Rugby League International clubs and 40 leagues across PNG. Federation, which placed it on the international As for rugby league’s fans, they’re sporting stage. Although its first Test match widely regarded as among the most saw a 40–12 defeat by England, its first Test dedicated and enthusiastic in the world. win came shortly afterwards when the Kumuls Some of the country’s biggest television beat French team Les Chanticleers (a thumping audiences gather to watch the national men’s 37–6) in Port Moresby. team, the Kumuls, or Australian state-of-origin In subsequent years, PNG further impressed matches. Stadiums are regularly sold out when with valiant – if ultimately losing – performances the Kumuls take to the field. against France and New Zealand. Such fervour might seem surprising given The growing confidence of the PNG national the relatively youthful nature of rugby league in team saw it attend its first Rugby League World PNG. It was likely first introduced in the 1930s Cup in 1985–88, at a time when the tournament by Australian miners and settlers and reinforced was formatted over a three-year period. The in the 1940s by Australian troops stationed and Kumuls again caught the world’s attention by fighting in PNG. The PNG Rugby Football League beating New Zealand in a thrillingly close early- was founded in 1949. Still, until the late 1960s round match in Port Moresby. it was played mostly by expats, although it Things didn’t go so well in subsequent World attracted growing spectator interest. Cups, though PNG’s 28–28 draw against Tonga Things started to change in the early 1970s. in England in 1995 saw it advance further than A national rugby league team took part in the ever before in the competition. inaugural Rugby League Pacific Cup in 1975, The 2000 World Cup, however, would go which was hosted by PNG. down in the sporting history books when PNG opened the tournament with a sensational

92 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING RUGBY LEAGUE

Kumul action ... a PNG player on the burst during a match against an Australian Prime Minister's XIII (opposite page); face of determination; the

Kumuls in a huddle. PICTURES: DAVE BULLER

23–20 victory over host nation France in Paris, including the Port Moresby League and the Rugby league hit a turbulent time in 2010, and followed it up with wins over both South Nokondi Cup, created in 2007 to bring together with clashes over junior development, control Africa and Tonga. Two million Papua New local teams in Eastern Highlands Province. of the national team and governing body, and Guineans – about a third of the entire population In December 2008, the PNG Women’s Rugby controversy about the numbers of Australian- – tuned in to the televised quarter final against League was founded, reaching its culminating based players being picked for the national Wales. Although the Kumuls were defeated achievement this year by placing a national team. Lately, though, things have been on the 22–8 it was their best achievement in a World team at the World Cup. upswing again. Cup. Tens of thousands of fans swamped Port Many PNG players also compete – and have A team of very experienced players in the Moresby airport to cheer the team’s return. become big stars – in the Australian National national squad in 2016 saw the Kumuls defeat While rollercoaster losses and wins were Rugby League, particularly in Queensland, Fiji 22–10 in a Pacific Rugby League Test final unfolding internationally, the country was where 20,000 Papua New Guineans live, in Sydney, after a near-miraculous comeback developing rugby league nationally, too. In and to which others are prepared to fly for in the second half of the match that drove 1990, the SP Inter-City Cup was established as matches. the nation to a frenzy. It was the team’s first the first national competition, modelled on the The Port Moresby Vipers and more recently international away win since 2000. This year’s format of the Australian National Rugby League. the PNG Hunters have been prominent in World Cup could be another moment to shine. After changes in sponsorship names over the the Super Cup tournament, the top level of But whatever happens, one thing is assured: year, it is now called the Digicel Cup, after a rugby league club competition in Queensland, PNG’s obsessive rugby league fans will be mobile-network supplier. Properly speaking, it contested by 14 teams. cheering from the sidelines. has been the Papua New Guinea National Rugby The Hunters joined the competition in 2014 League Competition (or PNGNRL) since 2005. and won the premiership this year. All their For the schedule, viewing details, and the While this is the premier domestic matches in Queensland are shown live on latest results in the 2017 Rugby League competition, there are numerous others, national television in PNG. World Cup, see rlwc2017.com.

world cup 2017 The 15th Rugby League In the opening rounds, The PNG women’s team, The Raggianas are World Cup started on the PNG men’s team has the Raggianas, plays competing in the World October 27 and is being been drawn to play Wales, England, Canada and Cup for the first time. played across Australia Ireland and the US, all New Zealand, all at The team’s moniker is and New Zealand, plus at the National Football Southern Cross Group derived from the official Port Moresby. PNG last Stadium in Port Moresby. Stadium in Sydney. Latin name, Paradisaea hosted in 1991. This year, The Kumuls have never raggiana, for the kumul, 14 men’s and six women’s played Ireland or the US or bird of paradise, which national teams are taking in a World Cup, and have is the national emblem part. Both finals will be in been defeated three times of PNG and appears in Brisbane on December 2. in their three matches silhouette on its flag. against Wales.

November – December 2017 93 LIVING HISTORY

LITTLE BOATS,

PICTURES: COURTESY OF AUSTRALIAN WAR MUSEUM & US ARMY SMALL SHIPS ASSOCIATION BRAVE HEARTS

Roderick Eime recounts the story of a fleet of small boats, crewed by old men and boys, which helped in the war effort in PNG.

Mighty minnows ... (clockwise from top left) the flag of the Small Ships section; unloading supplies; one of the boats in the fleet; a US small ship at anchor, possibly at Tufi; skippers in the small fleet Jack Savage and Neil Sandery; big guns by the boat load.

94 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING HISTORY

The Zeroes bunched up into groups of three and four aircraft and peeled off one by one to begin their lethal strafing runs over the near-helpless boats.

Shore party ... US troops near Buna during the advance on Japanese forces in 1942.

he distant drone of aircraft Australian land forces, under squadron of 17 Japanese Zero crates and boxes – and the canoes engines disturbed the the command of controversial fighters that had spotted them, being paddled out to collect the quiet of the balmy tropical General Thomas Blamey, were unescorted, just offshore from their cargo quickly about-faced and Tevening sky. A convoy of enjoying some measure of beachside supply base at Hariko, a made a beeline for the shore and ‘tiny’ ships had dropped anchor and success after driving the Japanese stone’s throw east from Japanese the cover of jungle. their crews were about to begin infantry back from the threshold defences around Buna. Many of the soldiers crowded the frantic task of unloading their of Port Moresby, across the now Packed into the holds of the tiny on the decks could not swim and cargo of valuable supplies for the legendary Kokoda Trail to their vessels were tonnes of crucial instead took cover wherever they Allied war campaign that was due stronghold of Buna-Gona on the ammunition and supplies for the could behind the crates and below to start the next day. northern shore. US and Australian forces, who decks. Papuan deckhands neatly It was mid-November, 1942, and But right now, a rapidly rising were poised to begin their assault slipped over the sides and into the things were critical for the Allied dread was sweeping over the on the entrenched enemy on the water while the skippers tried to forces who were just coming off crews and their uniformed beach and in the swamps and run their vessels through the reefs the back foot in their fight against passengers as it was realised plantations along the shore. There and onto the beach. the all-conquering Japanese. the sound was coming from a was no time to unload the many

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November – December 2017 95 LIVING HISTORY Little boats, brave hearts

With practised precision, the 100 tonnes of ammunition. Zeroes bunched up into groups The smaller former fishing of three and four aircraft and trawler Minnamurra was likewise peeled off one by one to begin packed, as was the ex-Sydney their lethal strafing runs over the fishing boat Bonwin. The fourth near-helpless boats. Soldiers vessel was a captured Japanese cocked their rifles and the solitary barge left behind by the Japanese machine guns awkwardly installed during their failed attempt to on the decks sent bursts of capture Milne Bay, three months futile fire in the direction of the prior. It carried two 25-pounder swooping attackers. field guns, their crew and loads of Before their hurried conscription ammunition. into logistic service with the Many of the passengers US Army’s Small Ships section, that evening were important these vessels had enjoyed benign officers who would command careers as fishing trawlers, private the ensuing campaign, including yachts and ferries. General Forrest Harding and an The two-masted schooner, Army observer from Douglas Alacrity, was the largest in the bay MacArthur’s headquarters in that evening and carried almost Sydney’s Grace Hotel, Colonel 200 of the around 300 people in Herbert Laux. Decked out ... Browning machine guns were installed on the decks of small the little convoy, including a field Aboard the Minnamurra was boats (above); US troops travelling by lugger in 1942 (opposite page). hospital and its supplies as well as acclaimed Daily Mirror war correspondent, Geoffrey Reading, heroism and bravery was the and his friend and ship controller, partial salvage of much-needed US Army captain Jack Keegan. medical supplies and some of the Australian photographers Frank ammunition. Many had pushed Bagnall and Tom Fisher were also themselves to exhaustion saving members of the media along for themselves and their comrades the ride, chaperoned by former among the flames and exploding journalist and now army captain, munitions. About 60 Papuan, Keith Black, attached to the PR Australian and US men were dead section. and many more wounded. The It must have been like shooting two vital field guns were lost with fish in a barrel for the battle- the Japanese barge. hardened Japanese pilots who This harrowing event was were operating from their newly certainly one of the more exciting established base at Rabaul. moments for the Australian small Each aircraft swooped in, raking ships and their crews hastily the decks with machine gun and pressed into military service at 20mm cannon fire, quickly turning the outset of hostilities. This the scene into one of panic and curious and overlooked chapter mayhem as fuel and ammunition of military history is, like so many burst into flames on the stricken others from the Pacific theatre, vessels. Both the Alacrity overshadowed by the legend of and Bonwin burned fiercely, Kokoda. The history and stories intermittently sending showers of these ships and men, many too of exploding ammunition into the old, too young or infirm for regular sky in a ferocious display that service, is retold in a recently continued until morning. released book, The Rag Tag Fleet Among the sporadic acts of by Ian W. Shaw.

96 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING HISTORY Little boats, brave hearts

Gona Buna

Hariko

Port PNG Moresby

0 Km 80

“My interest in the small Sandery – named after the father ships story started with a casual he never knew – shared with me discussion with my publisher and their stories of extraordinary men grew with the on-going research I in extraordinary times.” undertook,” says Shaw. “I learned of some amazing men, like Clarrie Dawes who ran away to sea at 14 and was in the front line at Buna when he was 16. Others, like Ralph Andrews and Neal Sandery, were professional sailors or fishermen, some with minor health issues, who followed their boats into the US Army’s Small Ships section when the Americans requisitioned their boats. “I learned, too, that those men and their little boats cut short the fighting at Buna by several weeks and, in doing so, saved hundreds – if not thousands – of lives. “Finally, researching and writing The Rag Tag Fleet The Rag Tag Fleet gave me the by Ian W. Shaw (published opportunity to meet some of by Hachette Australia), those characters and some who see hachette.com.au. knew them best. Clarrie Dawes, Ross and Isabel Andrews, Ralph’s widow and nephew, and Neal

November – December 2017 97

LIVING SPOTTED IN

IN … GERM ED AN T Y T O P S A EUROPEAN MUMU 14,008km Each year, Phyllis Schneider hosts a get-together for Papua New

R H E Guineans living in Europe. They swap stories and prepare a mumu O ID T E E N LIE CH R PHYLLIS S (feast) in the shadow of the Bavarian Alps. Kevin McQuillan reports.

apua New Guinea-born Phyllis Schneider just to Papua New Guineans, but anyone with an and her German-born husband Michael interest in PNG, including former development have been hosting PNG get-togethers for workers, missionaries, government officials and P16 years. This year, 42 participants from people who have worked in PNG. PNG, Germany, Nigeria and West Papua joined The concept is reflected in Schneider’s own the party. experience in adapting to Germany, when she The get-togethers, called bungs, take place and Michael moved there in 1999, after his at the Schneider family hotel, Pfeiffermuehle, contract with the German Development Services in Wertach, a small town in the Bavarian Alps, in PNG ended. Friends of PNG … a mumu celebration in about 170 kilometres from Munich in Germany. Germany. The transition to German society was difficult, “There are only a few Papua New Guineans she says, primarily because she didn’t know any scattered across Europe. That’s why we had the “We always have between 30 and 45 German language. idea to meet regularly,” Schneider tells Paradise. participants,” she says. The gathering is open not

November – December 2017 99 LIVING SPOTTED IN

Now she is very proficient – not surprising for Not a lot of Germans know that parts of PNG Papua New Guineans, most of whom speak at were once a German colony, Schneider says. least three languages. “Most don’t know where PNG is unless you “Besides German, I speak my mother tongue say it’s in the north of Australia, because they Wedau, neo-Melanesian tok pisin, English and know where Australia is.” some Portuguese. I learnt Portuguese when Schneider is no longer a full-time nurse, but we lived in Mozambique, from 2001 to 2004, those skills have come in handy as she helps where Michael taught wildlife and conservation run the family hotel, along with Michael, his area management at Eduardo Mondlane sister, Christina, and her husband, Marco University.” Kleemann. Schneider says she was excited to see snow The Bavarian Alps are a major tourist for the first time when she moved to Germany. attraction in this part of Germany and the small “Here in the Alps, it snows every winter and it town of Wertach dates back to 955. looks so beautiful. At times it can be very cold, Time away from the hotel usually means but I’ve got used to it.” holidaying in Austria or Switzerland. Schneider Born in Wamira village near Dogura, Rabaraba also goes back to PNG every two years. District in Milne Bay Province, Schneider trained “There’s a saying that ‘home is where the as a nurse after finishing Holy Name Girls High heart is’ and that’s where my heart is and will School at Dogura. always be,” she says. She was working at Bulolo Hospital, when she But the annual bung helps make up for what Phyllis and Michael Schneider … welcome met Michael, then a lecturer in wildlife at Bololo Papua New Guineans with open arms to their she misses in PNG. University College. family hotel in Germany. MP_1716598

100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING FOOD

AROB PIZZA INN, BOUGAINVILLE RESTAURANT REVIEW

ur pizzas are so The team behind the Pizza Inn good that we know isn’t resting on its laurels, with people take them plans to expand to Arawa and “Oon the flights out Buin. But its next venture in of Buka,” says Sister Hilda of the Buka is an upmarket steakhouse. Convent of Nazarene and a staff Scotch fillet, beef kebabs, member in a unique Papua New and crocodile will be on the Guinean restaurant, the AroB menu. The location – on a crag Pizza Inn. overlooking the Buka passage – Located in a lush glade on is dreamy. Buka’s outskirts, the little inn is a Sticking a pizza into a suitcase livelihoods project of the Catholic and checking it onto a plane is diocese. There are 26 pizzas a pretty radical move. But once on the menu, ranging from old you taste the quality of these favourites like margherita and pizzas, you might not think it is Hawaiian, to more edgy offerings a crazy one after all. such as a spicy diavolo. As much — GORDON PEAKE as possible, the ingredients come from Bougainville. What the team is producing out of the tiny little ovens is little short of a culinary miracle. The pizzas are as divine as anything you would find in an Italian piazza. The base – kneaded from a secret recipe – feels the right WHERE: mid-point between spongy and Former YC Hall, Hahela, firm. The toppings are consistent Buka, Autonomous Region of in their quality. Washed down Bougainville with a soft drink, cold beer or PHONE: wine, these pizzas are a perfect +675 7200 3698 way to end the week. STYLE: Pizza The restaurant has become TYPICAL PRICE: a popular destination for Pizzas range from PGK30–50. Bougainvilleans, expats, and BYO: No (serves beer, wine and soft drinks) visitors since opening last year. The most popular pizza is the OUR FAVOURITE DISH: Half meat-lovers, half vegetarian pizza Hawaiian, reputedly a favourite IN A WORD: of the region’s president, whose Heavenly wife calls in for takeaway. The venture employs 20 people, providing transferable skills in cooking and hospitality management. It is a place that shows what mixing ingredients of hope, imagination and hard work can create.

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TWM-CR-Ad-2017-09-Paradise-Publication.indd 1 18/09/17 2:32 PM LIVING WELLNESS

BY BRONWEN GORA Healthy festive feasting

hristmas is around the found in PNG originated in the Gulf Many corner and with it the Province and is now enjoyed all of these temptation to eat a lot over the country. A typical recipe are contained in Cmore than usual. Thankfully involves heating the sago in a cow’s milk as well, although the vast array of delectable fruit in saucepan before adding water coconut milk is lactose free, the tropics makes it far easier here, and stirring until thick and sticky. meaning it's less likely to than in many other parts of the Bananas are then mashed into irritate sensitive systems. world, to create healthy, guilt-free the thickened mixture before the Sago, the starch taken from festive food without sacrificing sweet sticky treat is rounded off sago palm stems, is primarily taste and flavour. with coconut milk or cream. carbohydrate, so blending it This is especially the case in Bananas are full of healthy with the kind of fats, mineral Papua New Guinea, where many properties, including an ability to and vitamins found in the other desserts, snacks and breakfast help moderate blood sugar levels, ingredients balances out the dish dishes are filled with the numerous improve digestion and, with regular nutritionally. exotic fruits supported by the consumption, can even slash country’s fertile soils. the chance of developing kidney One of the most commonly found disease. styles of Papua New Guinean Coconut milk/cream, while high dessert is banana sago coconut in fat, is also extremely nutritious porridge, which can also be made when consumed in moderation. with the addition of other tropical Its medium chain saturated fatty fruits such as pineapple, mango or acids (MCFAs) have been found passionfruit. The blend of warm to have antimicrobial properties. sago with fruit and coconut milk What’s more, MCFAs are rapidly or cream offers a well-balanced metabolised, which means they blend of fat, vitamins, minerals are less likely to be stored as fat. and carbohydrates, and works just Coconuts are packed with as well for breakfast as it does vitamins C, E, B1, B3, B5 and as a snack or dessert due to its B6 and minerals iron, selenium, luscious creamy texture. sodium, calcium, magnesium and The typical banana sago porridge phosphorus.

Banana sago coconut porridge Serves 4 Ingredients passionfruit, Method pinch of salt in Peel or mango. 65g sago mango or Place sago in a saucepan and bananas, Stir in coconut 110g caster pineapple a bowl, cover slowly bring to then cut into minutes or milk, then sugar (optional) with cold water a simmer. Cook, 5mm slices on until bananas remove pan 2 bananas 250ml (1 cup) and leave for stirring, over the diagonal. are softened. from heat and Fruit of choice coconut milk one hour, then low–medium Add to sago Add any other cool slightly. such as drain well. heat for 15 mixture, stir fruit of your Serve warm Combine sago, minutes, or gently to choice such as or at room 500ml water, until sago is combine, then passionfruit temperature. sugar and a translucent. cook for three MAIN PICTURE: COURTESY OF MARLEY SPOON

104 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING WELLNESS

BEND AND STRETCH

Clinically reported benefits of yoga are many As well as yoga, Bucher’s week-long retreats and varied. They range from largely known offer snorkelling and swimming with dolphins pluses such as weight loss and improving in Blanche Bay, spa treatments using skin- strength, to more obscure benefits smoothing clay, bathing in thermal waters, such as reducing hypertension, scenic walks taking in sweeping views and regulating heart rhythm and caves near Blue Lagoon plus tours to a nearby reducing the chances of post- village for a feast with local cuisine. There is natal depression. also plenty of free time. Now a new yoga retreat in The retreat package includes return Air Niugini Papua New Guinea’s Kokopo airfares from Brisbane to Rabaul, a seven-night gives visitors and locals stay at Rapopo Plantation Resort, and all meals a chance to embrace the including lovely local dishes and Ayurvedic practice while enjoying local recipes prepared by Bucher. hospitality, culture and scenery. Her next Yoga & Cultural Retreat weeks The Kokopo retreats are run are scheduled for PNG and Fiji in July and by experienced yoga practitioner September 2018. She is also hosting a one-day Erue Bucher (pictured), an Australian retreat in Port Moresby at the Taurama Aquatic accredited teacher of hatha yoga Centre this November. from Rabaul and now living in Brisbane, See Erue Yoga on Facebook. Australia.

RUN THE GREAT WALL CYCLING MEETS CUISINE

Seeking a fitness challenge somewhere in South-East Asia? Then sign Keeping your figure while enjoying the cuisine of a new country is one up for the next Great Wall Marathon on Sunday, April 15, next year. of travelling’s greatest challenges. And one of the best ways of ensuring The internationally renowned race is one of the most demanding and you do both is by cycling. exhilarating in the region. Vietnam is one of the most popular countries for cycling holidays, Runners follow a route that not only travels along a major part of because the landscape lends itself so well to many delightful and easy the iconic monument, but also dips into the surrounding countryside routes through villages and countryside. and villages. Exodus Travels, which has one of the largest ranges of cycling tours About 2500 people from 50 countries take part across the three events across Asia, bills Vietnam as best for foodies thanks to the local cuisine. on offer – the marathon (42km), half marathon (21km) and fun run The trip also includes a night on a traditional boat, cruising Halong Bay. (8.5km). See adventureworld.com. See rungreatwall.com.

November – December 2017 105 LIVING GADGETS BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI Gadgets and travel accessories

Waterproof e-reader If you’re going to invest in an e-reader for your next adventure, let it be the Kobo Aura H2O Edition 2. You can take the waterproof device to the beach without worrying about it getting wet, and read it in direct sunlight thanks to the anti-glare display. If you’re reading at night, it has ComfortLight PRO to reduce blue-light spectrum so you can read without it affecting your sleep (also ideal on planes). It lasts weeks without a charge, and stores up to 6000 e-books, which sure beats lugging a stack of hefty paperbacks around every time you travel. About PGK609; amazon.com.

Cups for keeps Phone pouch Travel cap For the eco-conscious traveller who cringes Zip your phone into this Faraday cage leather Finding hats that look great and are also every time a disposable coffee cup is placed in carry-all and its diamond-pattern shielding will functional isn’t always the easiest task. Happily, their hands, a keep cup might be the ideal travel ensure no wireless signals get in or out. Like Canadian outdoor brand Arc’teryx has nailed it companion. Made either from lightweight plastic a bodyguard for your phone, it means that no with the Escapa trucker hat. The good-looking or surprisingly durable fully tempered soda lime GPS tracking, no cell-tower pinging and no design is made from breathable, quick-dry nylon glass, they come in three different sizes and electromagnetic radiation will come your way, fabric to help regulate temperature, and has with a rainbow of coloured lids and bands. Our and that nobody will be able to intercept your a stretch mesh back for a secure fit, meaning favourite is the classic Brew Cork Edition with credit card information. Made with top-grain you’ll stay comfortable whether you’re hiking, a natural cork band, made in Portugal using cow leather, with internal credit card slots and running, beaching, or just cruising around town. waste production from wine cork manufacturing. passport holder, it’s as stylish as it is protective. Comes in black, blue and red. About PGK127; From about PGK28; keepcup.com Comes in medium, large and extra large. arcteryx.com. From about PGK320; silent-pocket.com.

106 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING GADGETS

Smart watch Translation earpiece Samsung’s new Gear Sport is one of the best Pop the TranslateOne2One earpiece into your smart watches on the market, being just as ear, and have the foreign conversation you’ve powerful as your average fitness tracker but been desperately trying to untangle translated much better looking. It lets you take calls, chat efficiently for you within seconds. This language with Bixby (Samsung’s version of Siri), control barrier buster, created by Australian technology your smart-home devices, track workouts start-up Lingmo, translates into eight languages (even in the pool since its fully waterproof), including Chinese, Spanish and French, but play your Spotify playlists, use Samsung Pay, we’re still waiting for Tok Pisin. It works without get all your notifications and more. It charges Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, so you can use it anywhere for up to four days, is available in black or blue, in the world, no matter how remote your next and is compatible with any 20mm watch strap, international business meeting is. About PGK890 so you can dress it up or down as you wish. for a two-piece pack; lingmo.global. About PGK960; samsung.com. Reusable water bottle You can think of the Memobottle as a healthier version of a hip flask. The slim, reusable water bottle uses BPA-free plastic, and its elegant flat design makes it ideal for slipping into your briefcase or jacket pocket. Coming in a range of sizes, with a choice of lid colours and accessories, including leather sleeves and copper-plated desk stands, they’ll keep you looking stylish while staying hydrated. From about PGK100; memobottle.com.au.

Travel T-shirt If you’re not yet a merino wool convert, let this Lumbar pillow be the tee that does it for you. Icebreaker’s Tech It’s impossible to deny the benefits of travel, Lite Short Sleeve Crewe uses merino wool fibres but there are also indisputable downsides. wrapped around a nylon core, making it super One of them is sitting in one spot for lengthy durable while also doing that magic merino periods in uncomfortable airports, planes and thing of staying clean and smell-free for days. cars. Enter the Tempur-Pedic Lumbar Cushion, The design is versatile enough to take you from which is ergonomically designed to support your the office to the mountain top, and comes in mid and lower back, making sitting for those black, navy, light grey and red. About PGK228; interminable stretches much more bearable. icebreaker.com. It’s also lightweight, easy to pack, and comes with a machine-washable cover. About PGK285; tempurpedic.com. Handsome hankies Every good gent needs a good hanky in his pocket, and it’s even better if said hanky is handsome enough to also function as a pocket square or neck tie. Hanky Folk make certified organic cotton plant-dyed hankies, in either a solid indigo or a selection of fun tie-dyed patterns, that are all handmade in small batches by two Indonesian families, meaning no two are exactly the same. About PGK33 each; hankyfolk.com.

November – December 2017 107 LIVING MOVIES BY GLENN DUNKS

Paddington 2 Wonderstruck Starring: Hugh Bonneville, Sally Hawkins, Ben Whishaw, Hugh Grant Starring: Millicent Simmonds, Julianne Moore, Michelle Williams The beloved bear from the jungles of Peru with his duffel coat and Todd Haynes is one of the world’s great filmmakers. After a career a sweet tooth for marmalade returns in Paddington 2. He is joined by of thought-provoking and intricately assembled art-house gems – the majority of the cast from the 2014 original, including Hugh including classics like Safe, Far from Heaven and the recent Bonneville and Sally Hawkins as the parents Cate Blanchett drama Carol, which snagged six Oscar who take in the lovable talking bear, nominations – he returns with Wonderstruck. who is once again voiced with delicate While his latest doesn’t deal with the thorny and goodness by Ben Whishaw. provocative subject matter of sexuality and race seen Unfortunately, Nicole Kidman’s in his earlier films, it’s no less deep, with themes that splendidly over-the-top villain was will resonate with viewers of all ages. sadly shuffled off to a dirty pig farm at Wonderlust is set across two time periods, the the end of the original so doesn’t come 1920s and 1970s, as two deaf children escape their back, but new names to the cast include insular worlds. Hugh Grant and Brendan Gleeson, who Featuring long passages without dialogue, have clearly embraced the whimsy and to recreate the world of its deaf flamboyant tone of the film. protagonists, the film features Three years later, and we find Paddington settled Julianne Moore – a regular of Todd into London, working odd jobs for people in the Haynes’ films since the mid ‘90s – as neighbourhood so he can purchase a rare and well as Michelle Williams. potentially mystical book for the 100th birthday of Premiering at the Cannes Film his Aunt Lucy. Festival, it received glowing reviews When the book is stolen, Paddington and his new and could be a major player in the family set out to apprehend the thief through a upcoming Oscar race. series of hijinks. The Shape of Water The Disaster Artist Starring: Sally Hawkins, Doug Jones, Octavia Spencer Starring: James Franco, Dave Franco, The director of Pan’s Labyrinth is back with another Seth Rogen, Zac Efron evocative and fantastical film that will provoke There is something very entertaining discussion. Pan’s Labyrinth was a critical and about a bad movie. Movies that are cultural phenomenon, but Mexican filmmaker so terribly written, directed, acted and Guillermo del Toro was sadly seduced by Hollywood produced that they swing right around for bombastic science fiction (Pacific from being bad to some twisted version of Rim) and horror (Crimson Peak). wonderful. Think back to the 2003 romantic drama Thankfully, this fairy tale of sorts – The Room, a film that is so incompetent that it has about a mute woman (Sally Hawkins) fostered a dedicated fan base that repeatedly attends who falls for an Amazonian water screenings, vocally interacting with its incompetence. creature (yes, you read correctly) – sees The Disaster Artist is a film about the making of that del Toro return with his most elegant very bad movie. James Franco directs, as well as movie to date. stars, as Tommy Wiseau, a long-haired sleaze-bag Typically ravishing in its design, as all of with an entrepreneurial spirit who’s sick of not getting acting his films are, The Shape of Water confronts roles because of his mysteriously hard-to-define accent and inability tough issues while grooving to its own to memorise a script. Instead, he decides to make his own movie. twisted idea of romance. A sure-fire Oscar contender, this open- The Disaster Artist is far and away Franco’s most accomplished hearted film offers adult audiences something unique and fresh, yet feature as a director. Cameos by Sharon Stone, Melanie Griffith, also seductive and full of tension. Kristen Bell, Judd Apatow and more will keep viewers on their toes almost as much as they will be laughing. Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our reviewed movies. For screening dates and session times, see paradisecinemaspng.com.

108 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING BOOKS BY GREG CLARKE & ROBERT UPE

Dare Not Linger (Pan MacMillan), by Nelson Mandela Shaozhen: Through My Eyes – Natural Disaster Zones and Mandla Langa (Allen & Unwin), by Wai Chim, edited by Lyn White Nelson Mandela may no longer be with us, but one of the world’s Editor Lyn White’s work with refugee children motivated her to create greatest statesmen is credited as co-author of this new book. Dare Not the acclaimed Through My Eyes series of books. The series was created Linger draws on the memoir Mandela began to write during his time as as a way to pay tribute to the courage and resilience of children. South Africa’s first black president, from 1994 to 1999. The stories are fiction, but based on true events in troubled lands Mandela didn’t complete his work – the first draft was unfinished and offer an insight into culture, conflict and identity through children. when he died in 2013 – but acclaimed South African novelist Mandla Many of the Through My Eyes books are set in contemporary war Langa completed Mandela’s unfinished draft. zones, but this children’s book, an adventure story, is about a boy, Langa had access to Mandela’s notes and Shaozhen, living through the real-life 2014 drought in Henan, China, previously unseen archival material. The which was ultimately responsible for financial losses running to publisher’s describe the book as a vivid and often hundreds of billion yuan. inspirational account of Mandela’s presidency. Shaozhen has no intention of staying in his As the first democratically elected leader of remote village and becoming another poor South Africa, Mandela worked to unite his farmer: he’ll finish school and then, hopefully, post-apartheid country, to make a reality of a work in a factory in one of the major cities, just cherished vision for a liberated South Africa. like his father. Based on that daring brief alone, Dare Not But during one summer holiday, when Linger should sit comfortably on book Shaozhen is imagining days filled with nothing shelves beside Mandela’s original book, but playing basketball with his friends, Long Walk to Freedom. the worst drought in over half a century — GC threatens the crops his entire village relies on for income. As the water situation becomes dire, Life of Brine, A Surfer’s Journal Shaozhen realises he must come up with (Hardie Grant Books), by Phil a plan. But will it be enough to save Jarratt his family and friends and secure the In the four hours it takes to fly from Sydney future of his village? to Port Moresby on flight PX001, you’ll be well — GC into this easy-to-read memoir by Australian journalist and surfer Phil Jarratt. Jarratt, 66, and A Life Underwater (Viking), by living in Noosa, is one of Australia’s most prolific Charlie Veron chroniclers of surfing culture. In 2009 Sir David Attenborough introduced He is the author of 35 books and a former editor Charlie Veron, one of the world’s most of the irreverent Aussie surfing publication Tracks. renowned experts on coral reef ecosystems, He is brutally honest in Life of Brine as he reveals his excesses to speak about the effects of global warming and wild times growing up as a surfer in the 70s, 80s and 90s. on coral at an emergency meeting of the Royal In one chapter, he meets up with the American writer Hunter S Society in London. Ever since, Veron has been telling audiences about Thompson, who was well known for his own excesses, and there why it is necessary to protect the world’s coral reefs. are endless encounters with surfing legends and stars, among them A Life Underwater documents Veron’s journey from a free-ranging Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, Bill Murray and Pamela Anderson. childhood exploring the reefs and bush around Sydney, Australia, Much of the book is about Jarratt’s career as a journalist, his work in through to the freedom granted him as a young scientist to ‘go out the surf industry, as well as his travels. He surfs everywhere from Bali there and do something’. to Biarritz, and even briefly journeys to PNG on a writing assignment. The book includes snippets from adventures in PNG, including a visit But Life of Brine isn’t just about Jarratt growing up to be a Noosa to the Conflict Atoll at the eastern limits of the country. grandfather, it’s a nostalgia trip that shows how surfing has grown Remarkably, too, this is the story of how a self-taught coral from the simplicity of the 1960s into a billion-dollar sport and industry. specialist – Veron completed a PhD in zoology on dragon flies – If you don’t finish the book on the plane, it’s a handy addition to the became a leading marine scientist without ever attending a lecture hammock in between surfing sessions in PNG. on marine biology. — RU — GC

110 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

STRICTLY BUSINESS from www.businessadvantagepng.com PNG’S BUSINESS ELITE GATHERS

uturist Mark Pesce has told Papua New A two-day conference Guinea’s business leaders that 21st- in Sydney, Australia, century technology – including mobile Fphones, blockchain technology, drones recently brought together and robotics – is important for PNG’s long- term economic future. PNG’s senior executives Speaking at the Business Advantage Papua and showcased the New Guinea Investment Conference at Sydney’s Shangri-la Hotel, Pesce described country’s potential as an how PNG could use these technologies to leapfrog the industrial era and move effectively investment destination. into the post-industrial world. In particular, he explored a possible convergence between banking and telecommunications, based on drones to inspect its pipelines, while the the use of mobile phones. near-completion of the National Transmission Pesce’s keynote address set the tone for the Network, and a likely new underseas cable conference. Not only did he take a long-term connecting PNG to the world wide web are view, but he identified clear trends that, if signs of progress in connectivity. pursued, could benefit PNG in particular. The commentary then moved to the What is encouraging is that work is finance sector, with a perspective on the already underway in PNG in several of these most profitable sectors for investment areas. The central bank is actively looking provided by some of PNG’s most high-profile at blockchain, Oil Search is already using fund managers and analysts. They included

112 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS EVENTS

Down to business ... (clockwise from opposite page) futurist Mark Pesce; the delegates’ lounge; making new contacts; China expert David Thomas; the chairman of Air Niugini, Sir Frederick Reiher; EMTV covering the conference; Air Niugini’s information stand.

21st-century technology – including mobile phones, blockchain technology, drones and robotics – is important for PNG’s long-term economic future. The stories in our ‘Strictly Business’ section were first published in PNG’s The governor of the Bank of Papua New online business magazine, Guinea, Loi Bakani, outlined what he saw as the priorities for economic development. businessadvantagepng.com, A perspective on the opportunities offered and are re-published by in the financial services sector was provided arrangement with Business by Syd Yates, managing director of Kina Advantage International. Securities, who told the story of how the PNG company had grown from a small staff to a fully fledged bank and one of the top three fund managers listed on the Australian Securities Exchange. The chairman of event partner Air Niugini, Sir Frederick Reiher, detailed the increasing Kennedy Wemin (chief executive officer, reach of the national carrier and the Melanesian Trustee Services Limited), David redevelopment of Jacksons International Lennox (resource analyst, Fat Prophets), Airport in Port Moresby so that it can become Dr Stephen Nash (chief investment officer, a regional hub. Nambawan Super) and Eric Kramer, (chief The Minister for National Planning and executive officer, PacWealth, investment Monitoring, Richard Maru – representing manager for Nasfund). PNG’s prime minister, Peter O’Neill – told Interestingly, both Nash and Kramer the conference that the government is expressed an interest in investing in PNG’s keen to attract investment, especially in new underseas cable. the agriculture sector. He reaffirmed its

November – December 2017 113 STRICTLY BUSINESS EVENTS PNG’s business elite gathers commitment to reducing the cost of doing Networking ... in business and pointed to continued major between formal sessions, delegates investment in infrastructure. at the conference had He also said that the government had time to swap notes learned the lesson of the past five years: that the economy was too reliant on the resources sector and needed to develop other sectors, such as agriculture and tourism. “Over the next five years, our policy priority going forward is economic growth. We have to increase exports, decrease imports and get more value from our resources. This is what we have to do, and do it quite quickly.” Delivering on three key resources projects – Wafi-Golpu, Frieda River and the second while Mahesh Patel, chairman of Kumul to invest $US2 billion in key infrastructure Papua LNG project – will be a high priority Telikom, described the efforts being made to over the coming decade, including $US1 in the next five years, he says. make state-owned telcos more responsive billion on the Highlands Highway, a vital Chairman of the APEC PNG 2018 Coordinating to consumers and to reduce costs. lifeline for the PNG economy. Authority, Sir Charles Lepani, outlined how David Hill, country director of the Asian This was followed by case studies of plans for PNG’s hosting of APEC next year are Development Bank in PNG, gave the bank’s successful PNG companies: SP Brewery in progressing, with 15,000 delegates expected, view of PNG’s economy, and outlined its plans manufacturing (with chief executive officer,

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114 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS EVENTS

Stan Joyce) and Highlands Pacific in mining (with chief executive officer, Craig Lennon). Lennon pointed to the success of the Ramu nickel and cobalt mine as being particularly exciting, given that emergent battery storage technology is heavily reliant on these two export metals. The Pacific islands were also up for discussion, with some original and rarely heard insights. China expert David Thomas detailed the opportunities that have emerged from China’s expansion, which is leading to a 10 per cent increase in outbound investment. This was followed by a series of country presentations and a round table on the investment terrain in Fiji, Vanuatu, Timor Leste and the Solomon Islands. Timor Leste’s appearance was particularly timely, following the resolution of its long- standing border dispute with Australia. n Speakers ... APEC supremo Sir Charles Lepani (left); futurist Mark Pesce enthralled delegates; (above right); manager at the Nine Mile Farm, Lydia Tasi (right).

November – December 2017 115 STRICTLY BUSINESS AGRICULTURE

A: Well, the idea grew out of talks with Q&A many farmers throughout East New Britain Province. The Australian Government supported the PNG Department of Agriculture and Livestock by funding i2i Development, BOTO GAUPO an Australian Indigenous company, to undertake initial consultations and provide The chief executive officer of the Cocoa Board of ongoing business development. i2i general manager Brad Jackson said that the strategy Papua New Guinea explains the board’s initiative to is providing an enabling environment and incentivising farmers to transition their bolster farmer incomes. mindsets from being subsistence farmers to small business operators. The farmers he Cocoa Board Of Papua New Guinea agreed that developing a business and has started a farmers’ company to concentrating on providing consistent quality move small farmers from subsistence products will enable them to build confidence Tfarming to running a small, profitable in the market and gain an ability to negotiate business. The long-term aim of the new PNG improved pricing. Agriculture Company (PNGAC) is to boost Q: How will farmers benefit? output, quality and farmer incomes. A: Farmers will benefit from significant Q: Why is the board setting up this increases in yield in the first instance. As the company? market gains confidence, farmers will also A: The board wants to increase PNG’s share Boto Gaupo … aiming to have 20,000 farmers as benefit from increased prices. The increase of the world cocoa market by creating a shareholders in a new cocoa venture. in the farming families as shareholders will different, farmer shareholder business model also enable improved economies of scale and which will move farmers from small-scale farmers to move beyond subsistence scope, thereby reducing operating costs and subsistence farming to running a small, farming to a more commercial operating improving profits. profitable business as well as profiting from environment. Many farmers are eager to Q: Does this new model mean the PNG the entire value chain. Our aim over the next earn higher levels of incomes and create Agriculture Company could become five years is to have at least 20,000 farmers a future for their families, but they don’t involved in processing? as shareholders. have the business acumen. The new A: The short answer is yes. Other growth Q: How will the PNG Agriculture business will introduce strong governance opportunities will emerge through vertical Company work? and management systems, new technology, integration of the supply chain. These A: Initially, PNGAC will be owned by a reformed training and extension processes, opportunities include manufacturing and growing number of farming families in the standardised production systems and will maintenance of production systems, cocoa industry in East New Britain Province, produce a consistent quality bean. commercialising nurseries, providing logistics, and, for an initial period, the cocoa board. Q: How much support do you have and labour contracting. n The company will provide incentives for from farmers?

116 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

HUMAN RESOURCES SPECIAL REPORT

WANTED: local talent

A recent human resources survey has revealed, among other things, that there are great opportunities for Papua New Guinean managers. David James reports.

survey of human resources in Papua New Guinea has found that the country could make big gains by A using its people better. But there are significant skill shortages, especially in management and the professions. The survey, entitled Fulfilling the land of opportunity: How to grow employment in Papua New Guinea, was conducted jointly by Deloitte and the United Nations Development Program (UNDP). It has identified key areas where PNG has an opportunity to improve. “It is estimated that some 2.5 million people work in the informal economy, compared to only around 500,000 in the formal sector. Transferring even a modest share of those in the informal sector to the formal sector

would create considerable economic gains, PROPERTY PALMS PICTURE: PACIFIC in terms of productivity and tax revenue,” the report says. “For an economy to thrive, women year’s time. Nearly 40 per cent of businesses “Second, PNG has an must be given the opportunity to who reported they were hiring staff do not extremely large and growing excel,” the report says. expect their headcount to increase over the young population, with over “PNG is rich in culture and next year. 40 per cent of the population social diversity. This diversity, “In other words, 40 per cent of staff under the age of 15 and thus when fused and endowed with recruited today will make no net addition expected to enter the labour sufficient capacity, will be able to headcount in 12 months’ time, as market in some form (be it to spur innovation, creativity they are either replacing staff who have formal or informal) within the and problem solving.” already left (or are intending to leave in next decade.” The report found that the next 12 months), or they themselves The report says that women are 51 per cent of businesses are are expected to leave within 12 months,” under-represented in the labour currently hiring, although the report says. force, only making up an estimated 60 per cent do not expect “This can broadly be considered as PNG’s 27 per cent of the total. their headcount to increase in a turnover rate.”

118 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS HUMAN RESOURCES

Businesses in which females account for 50% or more of workforce

Papua New Guinean talent at management level is under increasing demand. Salaries are being reviewed upwards as the competition for local talent increases.

The report estimates that, nationwide, staff “Businesses need to invest resources into training, due to the concern they will not be turnover is 38 per cent. This compares with hiring staff, and having to repeat the process able to retain the staff for long enough to 16 per cent in Australia. It says high turnover reduces capacity and incentive to hire new staff. capture the gain. rates are a considerable cost to business and “High turnover rates also affect the “This was confirmed by training institutes to the broader economy. willingness of companies to invest in staff that noticed a preference by some

Serving PNG’s HR needs since 2007 • Executive Search and Selection • Human Resources Consultancy • Management Consultancy • Recruitment • Psychological Assessment • Strategic Planning, TQM, • Professional Contracting • Outplacement & Career Transition • Project Management • Labour hire • Assessment Centre Services • Organisation Design and Development • Payroll Bureau Services • Registered Employment Agency • Board, Executive & Staff Training • Visa, Work Permits, Citizenship Services

IN GLOBAL Port Moresby +675 325 5861 ALLIANCE WITH Brisbane +617 3003 0466 George Griffin: [email protected] Scott Roberts: [email protected] Des Blake: [email protected] Jon White: [email protected]

November – December 2017 119 STRICTLY BUSINESS HUMAN RESOURCES

How to create a more stable workforce Good human resource practices learning management system that are applied to that are high,” can greatly improve retention (LMS) usage. This is allowing he says. rates and company performance organisations to bring their PNG “The public service is investing in Papua New Guinea, according staff up to international standard in a values-based leadership to Calum Smith, Australasian more easily in terms of company development program; they are vice president for international training. really having to start at basics. workforce solutions provider “In the past six months we It has merit, and should be Airswift. He says the key is to have seen improvements in Calum Smith … optimistic about supported.” establish sound processes. hiring rates for both citizens and PNG’s employment market. Roberts says there has been “By implementing a good non-citizens. With APEC 2018, Scott Roberts, general manager something of a brain drain in PNG, recruitment process for both and a number of smaller capital of human resources firm especially in the resources sector. non-citizens (cultural alignment development projects in the near Rubicor Technical, says that But he does see some people and ability to train) and citizens term, I do expect a relatively big companies do their own returning home. “There are many means that many of our clients positive 12 months ahead – development and training, but examples of success over the have much lower attrition rates although we won’t be returning small and medium enterprises years and there are plenty of than the average. to PNG LNG hiring rates anytime usually lack the resources to Papua New Guineans who seem soon there will still be growth. “Because of improving invest in development. to do quite well internationally technology infrastructure, “Overall I am cautiously in technical, professional and “Businesses are always looking most notably with the internet, optimistic about the employment leadership roles.” for people who can lead others PNG is catching up with its market in PNG.” and, of course, the standards — DAVID JAMES nearest neighbours in terms of

120 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS HUMAN RESOURCES

Extent of recruitment difficulties, detailed occupations PNG skill needs index

The Deloitte survey selected 23 common occupations and asked respondents to rate how difficult it is to source each occupation locally The PNG skill needs index has been compiled by calculating the ratio of those indicating that they do experience difficulty hiring a particular occupation, to those who indicate that they do not. A ratio of 1 means the number of businesses that do have trouble hiring a particular skill matches the number that do not.

companies to recruit already qualified The report found that jobs in management Moresby, and white collar businesses are individuals rather than invest in developing and professional services are the most unambiguously more inclined to hire than one. difficult to fill. It says the more specialised blue collar businesses.” “This behaviour can cause a race to the and highly skilled an occupation is, the more Boosting locals is vital over time, the bottom, whereby incentives to delay, or difficult it is to find that occupation in PNG. report says. “In the short term, the use of simply not provide, training at a firm level can “While larger firms can get around skills foreign labour is essential to the continuation lead to sub optimal outcomes at an economy shortages by importing labour, small firms are of Papua New Guinea’s growth and wide level.” more constrained by the local labour market.” development agenda. The report looks at sector-specific issues. There are also some geographical “However, in the long term, it is critical to Eighty per cent of businesses surveyed differences, the report says. “At present, ensure that only those skills for which there identified skill shortages as a reason not to Port Moresby based businesses are is no local equivalent are brought into the hire. In the wholesale, hospitality and retail unambiguously more inclined to hire country. Developing a national skill needs list sectors, however, the level was 93 per cent. than businesses based outside of Port is a key first step in this regard.” n

November – December 2017 121 STRICTLY BUSINESS INTERNET

What’s PNG looking at on the internet?

earch engine giant Hausples.com.pg. Most popular Google owns the three Top 20 PNG-related websites sporting website? Nrl.com. websites most visited by Meanwhile, an online survey Papuan New Guineans – 1 Divine Word University 12 ANZ Bank by Business Advantage S 2 Loop PNG 13 Air Niugini google.com, google.com.pg and International to identify PNG’s 3 Lae University of Technology 14 EMTV youtube.com – according to data most recognisable local brands 4 Bank South Pacific 15 PNG Job Seek from web ranking service, Alexa. 5 The Post-Courier 16 Nasfund Savings and Loan suggests that there are four Given this, it’s not surprising 6 The PNG Electoral Commission Society stand out companies. that Google is installing its own 7 The National 17 Investment Promotion The poll was conducted in caching engine in Port Moresby, 8 PNG Facts Authority August with PNG Facebook with the aim of speeding up its 9 Telikom PNG 18 Department of Finance users. Forty-eight brands services for PNG users. 10 PNG Blogs 19 Digicel received votes, but just four Next, in fourth place, comes 11 PNG Workforce 20 Westpac brands accounted for the Facebook, the world’s largest Source: Alexa majority of votes: Air Niugini, social network – a service Trukai, SP Brewery and Bank 370,000 Papua New Guineans according to Social Bakers. Niugini is also among the top South Pacific (BSP).n access. Alexa says PNG’s top local rankings at No. 13. PNG’s most popular Facebook website is Divine Word University. Most popular source of overseas page belongs to Alotau-born, US- The news site, Loop PNG, is news for PNG? The BBC. Most based hip-hop artist Jay Lieasi, next among the locals and Air popular real estate website?

“Thank you NDB for helping local farmers”

MAGANISO AIKE ASA FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

122 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

BRAIN GYM QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD DoubleTake Red Herrings Tackle either set of these clues – you can even Fill in the gaps with letters to find the names of eight mix and match them, because the solutions are food items.Fill in Only the gapseight? with Yes, letters two ofto findthe examplesthe names are of the same for both sets. redeight herrings food items and. Onlywon’t eight? produce Ye s, anything two of the but examples frustration. are red Allherr theings answers and won’t have produce seven letters.anything but frustration. All the answers have seven letters.

CRYPTIC CLUES DOWN 20. Guides to map off Florida (4) DOWN 1. Almost a fight (5) 22. Even island can be low- 1. Approximately (5) ACROSS 2. Fifty percent of impact caused spirited (3) 2. Mischievous kid (3) 1. Sorry start after morning is not by little demon (3) 3. By the ... of one’s pants (4) as it should be (5) 3. Chair in clubhouse attic (4) STRAIGHT CLUES 4. Bucket down (4) 4. Wrote about Eiffel or Pisa (5) 4. Meet up by stream (4) ACROSS 5. ... not, want not! (5) 7. Venus and Jupiter say 5. Was half the team garbage? (5) 1. Wrong (5) 6. Gauges worth of (5) unexpectedly, “Let’s nap” (7) 6. Assesses local taxes (5) 4. High building (5) 9. Trouble (3) 8. Told tale of shadow (4) Red Herrings 037 9. Feel sick from beer, 7. Solar system bodies (7) 10. Sheltered side (3) 12. Looks the same both ways (4) © Lovatts Puzzles apparently (3) 8. Pursue closely (4) 11. Mushroom top (3) 14. Dramatise cane being returned 10. Spike or Bruce - even 12. Witnesses (4) 12. Filthy place (3) before tea (5) SOLUTION: \Cleese! (3) 14. Ordain by law (5) 13. Zsa Zsa Gabor’s sister (3) 15. Joy took part in jungle RED HERRING, pretzel, biscuit, teacake, lasagne, 11. Champ’s odd-looking hat (3) 15. Singing group, ... Club (4) 15. Actress, ... Scacchi (5) experiment (4) souffle, RED HERRING, crumpet, rissole, pancake. 12. Stay without a pen? (3) 17. Happy New ... (4) 16. Throw one’s hat in the ring (5) 17. Ray comes back around end of 13. Ms Peron is stuck in 21. Large table birds (7) 18. Shooting venue, rifle ... (5) June for 12 months (4) \elevator (3) 23. Come to terms (5) 19. Cedar or oak (4) 21. Dreadful movies about 15. Great makeover for a star who 24. Move sideways (5) 20. Lock openers (4) Thanksgiving dinners (7) wanted to be alone (5) 22. Blue (3) 23. Eager to change? Say yes! (5) 16. Ten terriers show how to go 24. Edge left inside (5) in (5) 18. Anger about mountain chain (5) 19. One that stands up with trunk, and leaves (4)

124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine BRAIN GYM PUZZLES SOLUTIONS, PAGE 126

The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION?

1. Who is known as PNG’s ‘Father of Independence’? 9. Can you name the premier of Queensland, Australia, and spell her name? 2. Which ill-fated ship sailed out of Rabaul on June 22, 1942? 10. What is ikebana in Japan? 3. Who is PNG’s first cardinal, appointed earlier this year? 11. What would you do with a slit gong? 4. How long is PNG’s only land border that divides the island of New Guinea in two: 330, 410 or 820 kilometres? 12. Former guerrilla fighter Francisco Guterres has been appointed president of which country near PNG? 5. What type of treat are you getting if you buy a packet of Queen Emma? 13. What is the northernmost point of mainland Australia? 6. Can you name two countries starting with ‘P’ that are northern 14. What was the previous name of the Indian city of Mumbai? neighbours of PNG? 15. Where is Sentosa Island? 7. What is the nickname of PNG’s national AFL team? 8. What type of sports people are you likely to see in action at Indonesia’s Padang Padang.

Sudoku Fill the grid so that every column, every row and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. Rating:

November – December 2017 125 BRAIN GYM SOLUTIONS

Solutions

Red Herrings RED HERRING, pretzel, biscuit, teacake, lasagne, souffle, RED HERRING, crumpet, rissole, pancake.

The Paradise Quiz 1. Sir Michael Somare. 2. The Japanese POW ship Montevideo Maru, which was sunk by a US submarine on July 1, 1942. 3. Sir John Ribat. 4. 820 kilometres. 5. PNG chocolate. 6. and the Philippines. 7. Mosquitoes. 8. Surfers (Padang Padang is a surf spot on the north-west coast). 9. Annastacia Palaszczuk. 10. The art of flower arrangement. 11. Play music. It’s a long wooden percussion instrument. 12. East Timor. 13. Cape York. 14. Bombay. 15. Singapore.

126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine YOUR ONE STOP COMMUNICATION SHOP Offering only the trusted brands with a high performance track record in Papua New Guinea

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HEAD OFFICE | Cameron Road | Waigani VISIT OUR WEBSITE Ph: 325 6322 | Fax: 325 0350 | Email: [email protected] BRANCH OFFICE | Laurabada Avenue | Lae Ph: 472 6262 | Fax: 472 1323 | Email: [email protected] www.tepng.cCome visit our showroom today!om ARRIVALS LOUNGE PAPUA NEW GUINEA VISITOR GUIDE Out and about A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call.

CLIMATE to eat. If you’re after fine dining, With the exception of the Bacchus is the place to go. For Highlands, Papua New Guinea has something more casual, go a warm tropical climate. The wet poolside, where Deli KC’s serves season in Port Moresby is from antipasto, salads, sandwiches,

December to April. milkshakes, espresso and a limited Italian menu for dinner. COMMUNICATIONS The Poolside Bar should not be Internet: Web access in Port missed for its garlic prawns. The Moresby has improved immensely Vue Restaurant, which has a in recent years. Although it can buffet each morning and evening, be costly, all the Port Moresby as well as an a la carte menu, has hotels listed in this guide provide stunning views. This is also the a fast-speed internet service. place for traditional rectangular, In other urban centres, you may PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND wood-fired Italian pizza. See still be relying on dial-up. For Car hire: Deal with one of the reach $US30,000). Visitors should airways.com.pg. those staying longer, wireless international names and ask also note that malaria is prevalent Asia Aromas: Chinese and internet, via a USB modem, is them to provide a driver (around in PNG and there have been cases Thai by the water at Harbourside. available, although download PGK400 per day). With the poor of measles and tuberculosis in Consistently good reviews on speeds can vary. state of roads, especially in Lae, some parts of the country. social media. Outdoor seating Phone: International mobile 4WDs/SUVs are recommended. MONEY available. Good spot for sunset drinks. Phone +675 321 4780. phone roaming is possible in PNG Airport transfers: For arrival/ PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). but it is costly. A cheaper option departure in Port Moresby, any of ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) Aviat Club: The club is open is to buy a local SIM card and the hotels listed in this guide will have branches at Port Moresby’s for breakfast, lunch and dinner. pre-paid credit (including data provide a complimentary transfer. international airport. ATMs are Home-style meals include stir- packs for smartphones). It is much Domestic flights: Travelling located around Port Moresby, Lae fries, toasted sandwiches and cheaper to make international within PNG often means taking and other urban centres. salt-and-pepper prawns. This is calls from PNG than vice versa. an internal flight (for instance, a great spot to sit at lunchtime Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming you cannot drive between Port SAFETY under the shady mango trees, more common at hotels, and Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini While the situation is not as bad or in the air-conditioned bar. is also available at Jacksons offers passengers the chance to as portrayed by some international See facebook.com/pages/Aviat- International Airport. book (and check in) online but media, you should always take Club/141553252563094. precautions, especially at night. ELECTRICITY make sure you print out a copy of Bel Cibo: A casual and affordable your receipt to show at the check- TIME ZONE family style restaurant serving The current in PNG is 240V AC in counter. Aircraft and helicopter PNG has a single time zone, Italian-American at Vision City. 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs. charter services are available for 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT. See belcibopng.com. GETTING AROUND travel to remote locations. EATING, DRINKING, Cafe on the Edge: There are As a general rule, you need to plan HEALTH good hamburgers here and your travel carefully. Serious medical conditions typically SOCIALISING IN PORT breakfast options such as eggs Taxis: Recommended firms are require treatment outside the MORESBY benedict, avocado and crispy Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet country. Travellers should ensure Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s bacon. The servings are generous. (7220 7000). they have adequate health cover (the ritziest hotel has several places Located under the residential cost of medical evacuation alone can buildings at Harbour City, ➤

128 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

behind the ANZ and BSP banks. dinners and parties. The menu is Korean Garden: An affordable non-members. Comfort food, See facebook.com/edgebythesea/. huge, too, with pages of Asian menu at Vision City that includes draught beer and an open-plan dishes. Don’t miss yum cha on a do-it-yourself barbecue, as bar area showing sport on large Crowne Plaza Hotel: There are Sundays. See facebook.com/ well as traditional favourites screens. See rpyc.com.pg. multiple eating options at Crowne. pages/Dynasty-Restaurant-Vision- such as kimchi and gimbap. See The in-house restaurant includes Seoul House: This restaurant City/148278471918956. facebook.com/pages/Korean- a buffet for breakfast (eggs specialises in Korean and Thai Garden/595454767289525. cooked to order), as well as lunch Fusion: This is one of the cities food, cooked on the hot plate and dinner. It’s one of the few busiest restaurants. It’s Asian Hosi Ramen: As the name right in front of you. Seoul House restaurants in Port Moresby with with a fusion of flavours from suggests, this Japanese is tucked away in a garden oasis gluten-free choices. The hotel China, Thailand and Vietnam. restaurant at Vision City compound in Five Mile. Tel. +675 also has fine dining at the Rapala Takeaway available. See specialises in ramen (noodles 325 2231. restaurant, where the steaks and facebook.com/pages/Fusion- served in broth with meat Sogno: This is a traditional Italian garlic prawns are impressive. Old- Bistro/199229050205354. and vegetables). See restaurant with pastas, risottos fashioned crepes suzette makes facebook.com/pages/Hosi- Gateway Hotel: The hotel has and pizzas served out of a stone an appearance here, too, and is Ramen/565779996932557. opened three new affordable food oven at Harbourside. See sogno. cooked at your table. See ihg.com. outlets in recent times – Enzo’s Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for restaurant. Daikoku: The extensive (pizza), Jackson’s restaurant choice here with Spices (Indian), Stanley Hotel and Suites: This Japanese menu has teppanyaki, (pizza, pasta, noodles, char the Italian Restaurant, Rio’s at the new hotel in Waigani has several donburi bowls and a large range of grill) and Sizzler’s family style Temple (Brazilian), Cafe Palazzo, restaurant choices, including sushi. Tucked away above the SVS grill. Jackson’s has a rooftop Lanes Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s the fine-dining Silver Leaf on the shopping centre in Harbour City, bar and great views looking biggest nightclub, The Gold Club. 17th floor, and the chic tapas- chefs will whip up your meal at over the airport. In addition, the See lamanahotel.com.pg. style Monsoon Lounge, which is your table. The teppanyaki menu Wild Orchid restaurant has daily Mojo Social: A casual great for after-work drinks on the includes several courses. See breakfast and dinner buffets. See Mediterranean-inspired bar and leather-lounge seating. The casual daikokupng.com. coralseahotels.com.pg. restaurant on the ground floor Green Haus restaurant has all-day Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: Grand Papuan Brasserie: of PWC Haus at Harbour City. dining, including buffet dinners This has rapidly become popular The funky Grand Papua Hotel Tapas-style dishes, risotto with live cooking stations. See among the expat community, with bar serves up cocktails and has and pizza among the offerings. thestanleypng.com. excellent coffee and homemade a decent wine list, along with See mojosocialpng.com. Tandoor on the Harbour: cafe-style food. See facebook. some tasty tapas-style bar food. Naked Fish: A seafood and steak Curry with great bay com/duffypng. Grab a seat in one of the huge, restaurant at Harbourside. Great views. See facebook.com/ black leather chairs or head to Dynasty at Vision City: This spot for sunsets and the water tandoorontheharbour/ the Brasserie, which has a nightly may be the biggest restaurant views. Phone +675 320 2293. buffet. The a la carte menu is Tasty Bites: This Indian in Port Moresby. Its size, its good and the steaks are delicious. Royal Papua Yacht Club: restaurant is tucked away in the chandeliers and its gold decor See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. Relaxed, spacious and open to town centre in Hunter Street ➤ make it a favourite for balls,

130 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

near Crowne Plaza. You won’t get Holiday Inn: Located in Waigani. Golden Aviat: A good option LAE HOTELS a table unless you book. Tel. +675 Large grounds include walking for Chinese, located on Huon Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room 321 2222. track, in a tropical garden setting. Road in Eriku. Open for lunch and facility at Nine Mile. The hotel has Outdoor restaurant and bar area, dinner and yum cha on Sundays. Vision City: PNG’s first major a Japanese-themed teppanyaki business centre and gym. Includes Tel. +675 472 0486. shopping mall houses an increasing restaurant with Asian/Western three-star Holiday Inn Express array of eateries. The cavernous Huon Club: A private members’ fusion menus, full bar service, a hotel. See ihg.com. Tel. +675 303 Dynasty (Chinese) and the Ten club, offering air-conditioned well-equipped gym, Wi-Fi and 2000. (Japanese) are stand-outs. See facilities, comfortable lounge complimentary transfers both to visioncity.com.pg. Laguna Hotel: The 60-room chairs, an expansive deck Lae City and Nadzab Airport. See property is a five-minute drive overlooking the Lae Golf Club, hornibrook.com.pg/crossroads/. PORT MORESBY HOTELS from the heart of Port Moresby a fully stocked bar and Foxtel Tel. +675 475 1124. Airways Hotel: Airways is and features a lagoon-style pool, connection to preview all the Lae City Hotel: One of the located within a large, secure free airport transfers, free Wi-Fi racing and sporting events. Tel. newest hotels in town, offering compound next to Jacksons and free buffet breakfast. See +675 7347 1058. a 24-hour concierge service. International Airport. An inspiring lagunahotelpng.com. Tel. +675 Located in the main Top Town setting, luxurious rooms, excellent Lae International Hotel: Home to 323 9333. area, it also has an excellent cafe service and very good food three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian and restaurant with Western and options. See airways.com.pg. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the Pizza, Vanda and Kokomo – which Asian cuisine. See laecityhotel. Tel. +675 324 5200. hotel has 24-hour free airport all serve an array of international transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, and Western cuisine, including com. Tel. +675 472 0138. Crowne Plaza: Upmarket rooms a conference centre, restaurants, Indian and seafood buffets. The Lae International Hotel: The and suites in the heart of the CBD. and the famous Gold Club. See Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) city’s premier hotel has recently Decent gym, business centre, lamanahotel.com.pg. Tel. +675 is also a good place for a nightcap, renovated rooms, full bar service, undercover parking, thriving cafe 323 2333. or two. See laeinterhotel.com. conference and banquet halls, a and Mediterranean restaurant. Tel. +675 472 7000. gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. Tel. +675 309 3329. Stanley Hotel and Suites: Port Moresby’s newest hotel (opened Lae International Hotel com. Tel. +675 472 2000. Ela Beach Hotel and in July, 2016) is a luxurious Whether it’s after a round of golf Lae Travellers Inn: An Apartments: On the fringe 429-room property in Waigani, or just an excuse to catch up affordable option, offering clean of the CDB, this constantly close to government offices and with friends, the club is excellent and comfortable rooms. Just a expanding hotel/apartment embassies. It has 95 long-stay for a few sundowners as you few minutes from the centre of complex is part of the Coral Sea apartments, gym, pool, cafe, overlook the stunning green. town, the inn also has conference Hotels group. Its main eatery restaurants and an executive Tel. +675 472 1363. facilities and a small restaurant is popular at lunchtime. See lounge. Connected to Vision City Lae Yacht Club: The perfect serving Western and Indian coralseahotels.com.pg. Mega Mall. See thestanleypng. place for late-afternoon beers, or cuisine. Tel. +675 479 0411. Gateway Hotel: Another com. Tel. + 675 302 8888. just as nice for a relaxing lunch. For general information about Lae, member of Coral Sea Hotels, EATING, DRINKING, Serves pub-style food including see lcci.org.pg and rainylae.com. this hotel is located next to the SOCIALISING IN LAE burgers, steaks and pizza, which airport. A range of amenities goes down a treat with the Free Wi-Fi at include Port Moresby’s largest Bunga Raya Restaurant: A local surrounding views of the Huon airport dedicated meeting space. See favourite, serving Malaysian-style Gulf. See laeyachtclub.com.pg. Domestic and international coralseahotels.com.pg. Chinese. Located next door to the Tel. +675 472 4091. Lae Golf Club. Be sure to try the passengers at Port Moresby’s Grand Papua: This premium stuffed lettuce cups, laksa and Mountain View Restaurant: airport can connect to free Wi-Fi. hotel opened in late 2011 and claypot tofu. Tel. +675 472 7177. One of Lae’s newest restaurants features 156 suite rooms (short is at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine HELPFUL WEBSITES and long stay), an executive floor, Chigi’s Cafe: A delightful place Mile. Open for breakfast, lunch Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg gym and conference facilities. inside the temporary Brian Bell and dinner, be sure to try the Business Advantage PNG, The separate restaurant and bar store near the Lae main markets. Japanese fusion menu – it’s the businessadvantagepng.com areas are popular for business Serves good coffee, milkshakes, only place in town where you can meetings. Centrally located. sandwiches, cakes and salads. get good sushi. See hornibrook. See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. Tel. +675 7217 1966. com.pg/crossroads/. Tel. +675 Tel. +675 304 0000. 475 1124.

132 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine JOIN US AT PORT MORESBY’S PREMIERE DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION

STEAK - SEAFOOD - SALAD

All kinds of goodness... for the whole family! Modern, stylish surroundings, great ambience and a great choice of dining styles from the grill to buffet, salad bars and gourmet stone-fired pizza - fine food to dine in or take away, Gateway Hotel is the food and entertainment destination for Port Moresby. Open Daily for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Bookings: 327 8100 | coralseahotels.com.pg ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more How much is this? One beer, please. Restaurant than 800 languages, but the Dispela em hamas? Wanpela bia plis. Ples bilong kaikai three official languages are Tok Thank you very much. Why? Bilong wanem? Goodbye Gutbai Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we Tenkiu tru. outline some Tok Pisin, which is How many children do you Hello Halo the largest lingua franca of PNG. You understand English? have? Yu gat hamaspla Water Wara Yu save long tok Inglis? pikinini? Where do I find a taxi? Baggage Kago Bai mi painim taxi long we? Where is my bag? Where are you from? Bag bilong mi istap we? Yu bilong wanem hap? Airport Ples balus One coffee with milk, please. Place Ples Wanpela kap kopi wantaim Where can I change my I don’t know. Mi no save. milk plis. money? What do you want? Fish Pis Wanem hap bai mi ken Yu laikim wanem samting? Where is the toilet? senisim moni bilong mi? Toilet istap we?

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wan Tu Tri Foa Faiv Sikis Seven Et Nain Ten

134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

Gerehu Port Moresby University of Papua New Guinea Morata Eight Mile Port Moresby Nature Park To Bomana War Cemetery W a Waigani To Motukea Island, the ig a PNG LNG plant and Ensisi n i Royal Napa Napa Refinery D r Port Moresby y w H Golf Club y ra National ur M t Museum er b u Parliament H Laguna Hotel Kumul Flyover PNG Erima Vision City Stanley Hotel Sir John Guise Stadium Lamana Hotel Jacksons Port City Hall International Moresby Holiday Inn Air Niugini Haus Airport W Gateway Hotel a ig a n Gordons i D Six Mile Airways r Hotel d Hanuabada R Saraga 0 100 Km en rd Ga Port Moresby Harbour g in Harbour City pr Hohola S Four Mile W Konedobu a Royal Papua rd s Yacht Club Sir Hubert Murray Rd Stadium Ta ur Boroko Taurama Aquatic am a Murray Rd ert Hwy Centre Harbourside ub H Port Moresby Crowne Plaza Badili Korobosea General Hospital Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Koki Town Two Mile Walter Bay Sabama 0 Km 1 Gabutu

November – December 2017 135 ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

Papua New Guinea University of Technology LAE Taraka

To Nadzab Airport, 42 kilometres

Crossroads Hotel Omili H d ig R h bu la m n Bu ds H w y Malahang Industrial Centre

I n H Bumneng d o e u p n e R n d d e n c Bugandi e H Golf Course Eriku D ig r r h D l e a Milford Haven Rd n c d n s Huon Club e H Bum d w b n u R e y ive p Botanical r e H d o n Gardens u I n

R d Dowsett War Cemetery Showgrounds Butibum Hotel Morobe

Sandpiper Rd 0 Km 1 PNG Lae d Lae City R n Lae Angau e v Lae City a Hospital China Town H Hotel d M r Lae International o a f l rk i Markets ha Hotel M m

Rd Lae International Melanesian Hotel Rd Hospital Butibam 0 100 Km St lia no ag M Voco Lae Yacht Club Point Lae Port Huon Gulf

136 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.

The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.

The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Inflight entertainment Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights

Movies

War for Planet of the Apes Batman and Harley Quinn Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Everything, Everything Genre: Action, Sci-Fi Genre: Animation, Fantasy The Long Haul Genre: Drama, Romance Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Genre: Family, Comedy Rating: PG13 Stars: Andy Serkis, Woody Harrelson, Stars: Kevin Conroy, Melissa Rauch, Loren Lester Rating: PG Stars: Amandla Stenberg, Nick Robinson, Steve Zahn Batman and Harley Quinn reluctantly team up, Stars: Jason Drucker, Alicia Silverstone, Anika Noni Rose Caesar and his apes are forced into war with alongside Nightwing, to stop a global catastro- Tom Everett Scott Maddy is a smart, curious and imaginative an army of humans led by a ruthless colonel. phe caused by Poison Ivy and Jason Woodrue A family road trip to attend Meemaw’s 90th 18-year-old who due to an illness cannot leave After the apes suffer unimaginable losses, (aka the Plant-Master). birthday party goes hilariously off course – her hermetically sealed house. But Olly, the boy Caesar wrestles with his darker instincts. thanks to Greg’s newest scheme to become next door, won’t let that stop them. famous.

My Cousin Rachel Wonder Woman The Revenant Befikre Genre: Drama, Mystery Genre: Fantasy, Action Genre: Adventure, Thriller Genre: Comedy, Romance Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: R Rating: PG13 Stars: Rachel Weisz, Sam Claflin, Iain Glen Stars: Gal Gadot, Chris Pine, Robin Wright Stars: Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Hardy, Will Poulter Stars: Ranveer Singh, Vaani Kapoor A young Englishman plots revenge against his Before she was Wonder Woman, she was Diana, While exploring the wilderness in the 1800s, Set in Paris, a couple named Dharam and Shyra mysterious and beautiful cousin, believing that princess of the Amazons. When an American legendary frontiersman Hugh Glass sustains find love in an impulsive, engaging series of she murdered his guardian. His feelings become pilot crashes and tells of a massive conflict in the injuries from a bear attack. When his hunting experiences. complicated as he falls in love with her. outside world, Diana leaves her home, convinced team leaves him for dead, Glass must utilise his she can help. survival skills.

Ok Jaanu Flower and Sword Wine Wars Finally Found Someone Genre: Romance, Drama Genre: Drama, Comedy Genre: Action Genre: Romance, Comedy Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Stars: Aditya Roy Kapur, Shraddha Kapoor, Stars: Mansai Nomura, Kamejiro Ichikawa, Stars: Leon Lai, Zhang Hanyu, Du Juan Stars: John Lloyd Cruz, Sarah Geronimo, Naseeruddin Shah, Leela Samson Kiichi Nakai Two childhood friends reunite in France in pursuit Joey Marquez Adi and Tara move to Mumbai to pursue their In imperial 16th-century Japan, Hideyoshi of a legendary bottle of wine, said to contain Aprilyn is a bride-to-be who gets stood up by dreams. A chance meeting sparks a heady, Toyotomi ascends to power. Hideyoshi rules with Kublai Khan’s secret brew. Suddenly, both men her fiance, Randy, on the day of their wedding. no-strings attached romance until their careers an iron fist, much to the discontent of the people. are drawn into an age-old feud between rival Randy’s father hires a PR strategist, Raffy, to pull them apart. Among them, one man works with flowers to vineyards. maintain his son’s image. But Raffy and Aprilyn bring peace to the land. form a bond. Inflight entertainment Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights

TV

Social Fabric Strange Rumblings in Arrested Development Chance Genre: Documentary, Lifestyle Shangri-La Genre: Comedy Genre: Thriller, Crime Episode: S1 E1 - The Fedora Genre: Documentary, Sport Episode: S1 E12 - Marta Complex Episode: S1 E1 - The Summer of Love Rating: PG Rating: PG Rating: PG Rating: R Stars: Kyle Ng Reminiscent of a Jacques Cousteau-style Stars: Jason Bateman, Michael Cera, Portia Stars: Hugh Laurie, Greta Lee, Ethan Suplee The documentary examines the culture of the expedition, Strange Rumblings in Shangri-La de Rossi Dr Eldon Chance resolves to help Jaclyn fedora from London to Los Angeles. This simple follows a tight-knit ensemble of the world’s best On Valentine’s Day, Gob thinks Marta is cheating Blackstone, a woman with a second personality, accessory has become a celebrity item, the surfers as they are challenged by the beauty and on him and Buster moves out of his mother’s escape her abusive, crooked cop husband. symbol of a movement, and a staple of the power of Mother Nature. penthouse to be with Lucille 2. Jamaican Rude Boy culture.

Pitch Son of Zorn Trial & Error Wabbit Genre: Drama, Sport Genre: Comedy, Fantasy Genre: Comedy Genre: Family, Animation Episode: S1 E1 - Pilot Episode: S1 E1 - Radioactive Ex-Girlfriend Episode: S1 E3 - The Other Man Episode: S1 E6 - Bugs vs. Snail / To Catch a Fairy Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Rating: PG13 / Bugs in the Garden / Scarecrow Stars: Kylie Bunbury, Mark-Paul Gosselaar Stars: Cheryl Hines, Dan Lippert, Tim Meadows Stars: John Lithgow, Nicholas D’Agosto Rating: G A beautiful, tough and gifted athlete, Ginny Baker With Craig and Edie’s engagement party After coming up empty on a match to the DNA Stars: Jeff Bergman, Dee Bradley Baker, JP Karliak is vaulted into instant fame when she’s called around the corner, everyone is figuring out found in Larry’s bedroom, Josh and his team Bugs is looking forward to a day of kite flying. up by the San Diego Padres to make her Major who to bring. discover new evidence that leads to a shocking Bugs wakes up to discover his teeth missing. League debut. new suspect. Bugs’ trusty GPS gets him lost in a corn field. Music

Kesha Fifth Harmony Arcade Fire Various Artists Cage The Elephant Leif Ove Andsnes Rainbow Fifth Harmony Everything Now Despicable Me 3 Unpeeled Sibelius Genre: Pop Rating: R Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Soundtracks Rating: G Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Classical Rating: G After years of legal battles Five solo contestants on the Disco and electro-pop abound Pharrell Williams heads Unpeeled is the first live album Leif Ove Andsnes plays the against her former producer, American X Factor became the in Canadian indie rock band production once more for by American rock band Cage symphonic master’s hidden pop star Kesha has finally international sensation Fifth Arcade Fire’s fifth album. the third instalment of the the Elephant. piano gems. gained her freedom, re-emerg- Harmony in 2012. Though now Despicable Me franchise. The ing with her newest album full only four members, the girl album also features Michael of laughter and exuberance. group carries on in a powerful Jackson and Madonna. eponymous album. Your health inflight

Change your watch to the local time if your stay is Cabins are pressurised to a maximum cabin altitude of 2440 At Air Niugini we care about your comfort and safety. longer than 48 hours, and try to eat and sleep in metres. It is the same air pressure as if you were at an elevation We have included the following information about your health accordance with the local time. of 2440 metres above sea level. The cabin pressure and normal On longer stays, try to prepare in advance, rates of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent in-flight that we hope you will find helpful and useful. adjust your meal and rest times to be closer to those do not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you of your destination. suffer from upper respiratory or sinus infections, obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular Try some light exercise - go for a brisk walk, or do some conditions, you could experience discomfort. Children When you are flying you can be seated and be inactive for Immobilisation for a day or more reading if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. and infants might experience some discomfort because of long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity Increasing age above 40 years It generally takes the body’s biological clock and pressurised up to an altitude of 2240 metres above sea pressure change during climb and descent. Pregnancy approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed. level. Unlike other forms of transportation, air travel allows If you are suffering from nasal congestion or allergies, use Fly direct to minimise flight time. This allows you to relax for rapid movement across many time zones, causing a Recent major surgery or injury, especially to lower limbs nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes more upon arrival. disruption to the body’s “biological clock”. Although these or abdomen prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages. unique factors do not pose a health or safety threat to most Oestrogen hormone therapy, including oral contraceptives If you have a cold or flu or hay fever your sinuses could be passengers, there are guidelines you can follow that will Dehydration Cabin Humidity / Dehydration impaired. Swollen membranes in your nose could block your eustachian tubes-the tiny channels between your middle ear improve your comfort level, during and after a flight. We hope Heart failure the following recommendations will help you have a more Humidity levels of less than 25 percent are common chamber. This can cause discomfort during changes in cabin pleasant flight today and in the future. Trauma in the cabin. This is due to the extremely low humidity levels pressure, particularly during descent. Varicose veins of outside air supplied to the cabin. The low humidity can Blood Circulation / Muscle Obesity cause drying of the nose, throat, eyes and it can irritate Recommendations contact lens wearers. Tobacco smoking If you have a pre-existing medical condition that warrants Relaxation supplemental oxygen, you can order from us. Please give Recommendations When you’re sitting upright in a stationary position for Recommendations at least seven days notice before travelling. Drink water or juices frequently during the flight a long period of time, several things can happen. If you fall into any of these categories or you have any To “clear” your ears try swallowing and/or yawning. The central blood vessels in your legs can be compressed, concern about your health and flying, Air Niugini Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks These actions help open your eustachian tubes, equalizing making it more difficult for the blood to get back to recommends you seek medical advice before travelling. acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration. pressure between your ear chamber and your throat. your heart. Follow our in-flight exercises programme. Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your When flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a The long inactivity of your body muscles in this position eyes are irritated. dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing will help can result in muscle tension, back aches or a feeling of Jetlag Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin. infants equalize the pressure in their ears. excessive fatigue during, or even after, your flight. A stationary position inhibits the normal body mechanism The main cause of jetlag is travelling to different time zones Eating and Drinking Motion Sickness for returning fluid to your heart, and gravity can cause without giving the body a chance to adjust to new night-day the fluid to collect in your feet. This results in swollen feet after cycles. In general, the more time zones you cross during your Proper eating and drinking will enhance your comfort both This ailment is caused by a conflict between the body’s a long flight. flight, the more your biological clock is disturbed. during and after your flight. sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Air turbulence Studies have concluded that prolonged immobility The common symptoms are sleeplessness, tiredness, loss of increases its likelihood because it can cause movement Recommendations may be a risk factor in the formation of clots in the legs appetite or appetite at odd hours. of the fluid in the vestibular apparatus of the inner ear. (DVT - deep vein thrombosis). Particular medication and Avoid overeating just prior to and during the flight. It is If you have good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on medical conditions may increase the risk of formation of Recommendations difficult to digest too much food when the body is inactive. non-moving object), motion sickness is less likely to occur. clots if associated with prolonged immobility. Get a good night’s rest before your flight. Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks Recommendations Medical research indicates that factors which may give Arrive at your destination a day or two early, to give acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration. you an increased risk of blood clots in the legs include: your body a chance to become more acclimatised to When weather is clear and you can see the ground, sea or horizon, you are less susceptible to motion sickness. Former or current malignant disease the new time zone. Cabin Pressurisation You can buy over the counter medications but we Blood disorders leading to increased clotting tendency Leave your watch on home time if you’re staying at a destination less than 48 hours. Also try to eat and sleep It is necessary to pressurise the outside air drawn into the recommend that you consult your doctor about the Personal or family history of DVT according to your home time. cabin to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. appropriate medications. Your health inflight

Change your watch to the local time if your stay is Cabins are pressurised to a maximum cabin altitude of 2440 At Air Niugini we care about your comfort and safety. longer than 48 hours, and try to eat and sleep in metres. It is the same air pressure as if you were at an elevation We have included the following information about your health accordance with the local time. of 2440 metres above sea level. The cabin pressure and normal On longer stays, try to prepare in advance, rates of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent in-flight that we hope you will find helpful and useful. adjust your meal and rest times to be closer to those do not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you of your destination. suffer from upper respiratory or sinus infections, obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular Try some light exercise - go for a brisk walk, or do some conditions, you could experience discomfort. Children When you are flying you can be seated and be inactive for Immobilisation for a day or more reading if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. and infants might experience some discomfort because of long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity Increasing age above 40 years It generally takes the body’s biological clock and pressurised up to an altitude of 2240 metres above sea pressure change during climb and descent. Pregnancy approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed. level. Unlike other forms of transportation, air travel allows If you are suffering from nasal congestion or allergies, use Fly direct to minimise flight time. This allows you to relax for rapid movement across many time zones, causing a Recent major surgery or injury, especially to lower limbs nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes more upon arrival. disruption to the body’s “biological clock”. Although these or abdomen prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages. unique factors do not pose a health or safety threat to most Oestrogen hormone therapy, including oral contraceptives If you have a cold or flu or hay fever your sinuses could be passengers, there are guidelines you can follow that will Dehydration Cabin Humidity / Dehydration impaired. Swollen membranes in your nose could block your eustachian tubes-the tiny channels between your middle ear improve your comfort level, during and after a flight. We hope Heart failure the following recommendations will help you have a more Humidity levels of less than 25 percent are common chamber. This can cause discomfort during changes in cabin pleasant flight today and in the future. Trauma in the cabin. This is due to the extremely low humidity levels pressure, particularly during descent. Varicose veins of outside air supplied to the cabin. The low humidity can Blood Circulation / Muscle Obesity cause drying of the nose, throat, eyes and it can irritate Recommendations contact lens wearers. Tobacco smoking If you have a pre-existing medical condition that warrants Relaxation supplemental oxygen, you can order from us. Please give Recommendations When you’re sitting upright in a stationary position for Recommendations at least seven days notice before travelling. Drink water or juices frequently during the flight a long period of time, several things can happen. If you fall into any of these categories or you have any To “clear” your ears try swallowing and/or yawning. The central blood vessels in your legs can be compressed, concern about your health and flying, Air Niugini Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks These actions help open your eustachian tubes, equalizing making it more difficult for the blood to get back to recommends you seek medical advice before travelling. acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration. pressure between your ear chamber and your throat. your heart. Follow our in-flight exercises programme. Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your When flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a The long inactivity of your body muscles in this position eyes are irritated. dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing will help can result in muscle tension, back aches or a feeling of Jetlag Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin. infants equalize the pressure in their ears. excessive fatigue during, or even after, your flight. A stationary position inhibits the normal body mechanism The main cause of jetlag is travelling to different time zones Eating and Drinking Motion Sickness for returning fluid to your heart, and gravity can cause without giving the body a chance to adjust to new night-day the fluid to collect in your feet. This results in swollen feet after cycles. In general, the more time zones you cross during your Proper eating and drinking will enhance your comfort both This ailment is caused by a conflict between the body’s a long flight. flight, the more your biological clock is disturbed. during and after your flight. sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Air turbulence Studies have concluded that prolonged immobility The common symptoms are sleeplessness, tiredness, loss of increases its likelihood because it can cause movement Recommendations may be a risk factor in the formation of clots in the legs appetite or appetite at odd hours. of the fluid in the vestibular apparatus of the inner ear. (DVT - deep vein thrombosis). Particular medication and Avoid overeating just prior to and during the flight. It is If you have good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on medical conditions may increase the risk of formation of Recommendations difficult to digest too much food when the body is inactive. non-moving object), motion sickness is less likely to occur. clots if associated with prolonged immobility. Get a good night’s rest before your flight. Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation. These drinks Recommendations Medical research indicates that factors which may give Arrive at your destination a day or two early, to give acts as diuretics, increasing the body’s dehydration. you an increased risk of blood clots in the legs include: your body a chance to become more acclimatised to When weather is clear and you can see the ground, sea or horizon, you are less susceptible to motion sickness. Former or current malignant disease the new time zone. Cabin Pressurisation You can buy over the counter medications but we Blood disorders leading to increased clotting tendency Leave your watch on home time if you’re staying at a destination less than 48 hours. Also try to eat and sleep It is necessary to pressurise the outside air drawn into the recommend that you consult your doctor about the Personal or family history of DVT according to your home time. cabin to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. appropriate medications.

TOKYO

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG MANILA CEBU CHUUK MAJURO PACIFIC PALAU OCEAN KUALA LUMPUR POHNPEI TARAWA

SINGAPORE PORT JAKARTA MORESBY DILI BALI HONIARA APIA PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI TOWNSVILLE NOUMÉA INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE

SYDNEY AUCKLAND

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP

Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected] TOKYO

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS MANILA GUAM CEBU CHUUK MAJURO PACIFIC PALAU OCEAN KUALA LUMPUR POHNPEI TARAWA

SINGAPORE PORT TUVALU JAKARTA MORESBY DILI BALI HONIARA APIA PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI TOWNSVILLE NOUMÉA INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE

SYDNEY AUCKLAND

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP

Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected] Your wellbeing Let us connect you

These exercises are designed to encourage a safe four minutes every hour and occasionally get out Air Niugini Domestic offices way to enjoy movement and stretch certain muscle of your seat and walk down the aisles if conditions groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods allow. Each exercise should be done with minimal Port Moresby Kavieng Lorengau/Manus Tabubil of sitting. They may be effective in increasing the disturbance to other passengers. None of the PO Box 7186 Boroko Administration, PO Box 170 Lorengau PO Box 545 Tabubil Sales Domestic & International Reservations & Cargo Administration, Domestic Reservations body’s circulation and massaging the muscles. following should be performed if they cause Tel: 327 3444 Fax: 327 3308 Tel: 984 2135 Reservations & Cargo Tel: 548 3244 Fax: 548 9189 We recommend you do these exercises for three or pain or cannot be done with ease. Reconfirmation Domestic & Airport: Tel: 470 9092 Fax: 470 9382 International Reservations International Tel: 984 2105 Fax: 984 2337 Tel: 548 3325 Tel: 327 3444 Madang Arrival & Departure Information Kieta PO Box 140 Madang Tari Agent Tel: 327 3300 PO Box 186, Arawa, Administration & Reservations Tel: 540 8023 Autonomous Region of Cargo Enquiries Tel: 852 2255 Fax: 852 2079 Bougainville Tel: 327 3245 Vanimo Tel: 975 1013 Cargo Charter Enquiries Mendi PO Box 239 Vanimo PO Box 210 Mendi Tel: 857 1014 Fax: 857 1473 Cargo: 327 3226 Pass: 327 3370 Kimbe-Hoskins Head Office Administration & Reservations Airport PO Box 181 Kimbe Tel: 549 1233 Fax: 549 1250 Tel: 857 7166 Airport & Administration Administration, Reservations & Cargo Jacksons Airport Saraga Airport Traffic Tel: 983 5077 Fax: 983 5669 Tel: 549 1320 Wabag & Wapenamanda Tel: 327 3200/325 9000 Arrival & Departure Information PO Box 213 Wabag Alotau Tel: 985 0012 Mt Hagen Administration PO Box 3 Alotau Gurney Airport PO Box 3 Mt Hagen Tel: 547 1274 Kiunga Reservations Domestic Arrival & Departure Information Tel: 641 0158 PO Box 346, Kiunga, Tel: 542 1183/542 1122 Tel: 547 1286 Administration & Reservations Western Province Reservations International Tel: 641 1031 Fax: 641 1636 Tel: 649 1422 ANKLE CIRCLES KNEE LIFTS SHOULDER ROLL ARM CURL KNEE TO CHEST FORWARD FLEX Tel: 542 1039 Waigani PO Box 7186 Boroko Lift feet off the floor: Lift leg with knee Hunch shoulders Start with arms held Bend forward slightly. With both feet on Buka Kundiawa Enquiries Tel: 325 1055 Fax: 325 3683 Draw a circle with toes, bent while contracting forward, then upward, high at 90° angle - Clasp hands around the floor and stomach PO Box 169 PO Box 847 Kundiawa Tel: 545 1444 Fax: 542 2361 simultaneously moving your thigh muscle. then backward, elbows down, hands left knee and hug it held in slowly, bend Buka Sales Tel: 735 1273 Popondetta Wewak one foot clockwise Alternate legs. then downward out in front. Raise to your chest. Hold forward to walk your Tel: 973 9655 Fax: 973 9656 Lae PO Box 145 Popondetta PO Box 61 Wewak and the other foot Repeat 20-30 times using a gentle hands up to chest stretch for 15 seconds. hands down the front Airport Sales Administration, Domestic, Reservations counter clockwise. for each leg. circular motion. and back down Keeping hands around of your legs towards Tel: 973 9082 Tel: 856 2433 Reservations & Cargo Tel: 329 7022 Fax: 329 7227 Reverse circles. alternating arms. knee, slowly let it your ankles. Hold International & Domestic Daru Tel: 472 3111 Fax: 472 4758 Airport Do each direction Do these exercises in down. Alternate legs. stretch for 15 seconds Tel: 856 2367 Fax: 856 2203 PO Box 58, Daru, Western Province International Reservations Tel: 329 7191 for 15 seconds. 30 second intervals. Repeat 10 times. and slowly sit back up. Airport Tel: 975 1013 Tel: 472 4744 Repeat if desired. Rabaul Tel: 856 2367 Goroka Lihir PO Box 3120 Rabaul PO Box 683 Goroka Reservations Reservations & Sales Reservations Tel: 986 5151 Fax: 986 5134 Tel: 983 9325 Fax: 982 9034 Tel: 732 1444 Fax: 732 1439 Tokua Airport Arrival & Departure Information Tel: 983 9821

OVERHEAD STRETCH SHOULDER STRETCH NECK ROLL FOOT PUMPS Raise both arms Reach right hand With shoulders Foot motion is in 2. Put both 3. Lift heels straight up and over over left shoulder. relaxed, drop ear to three stages. feet flat on high, keeping your head. With one Place left hand behind shoulder and gently 1. Start with both the floor. balls of feet on floor. hand grasp the wrist right elbow and gently roll neck forward and heels on the floor Continue these of the opposite hand press elbow towards to the other side, and point feet three stages with and gently pull to shoulder. Hold stretch holding each position upwards as high continuous motion one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. about 5 seconds. as you can. in 30 second for 15 seconds. Repeat other side. Repeat 5 times. intervals. Repeat other side. Your wellbeing Let us connect you

These exercises are designed to encourage a safe four minutes every hour and occasionally get out Air Niugini Domestic offices way to enjoy movement and stretch certain muscle of your seat and walk down the aisles if conditions groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods allow. Each exercise should be done with minimal Port Moresby Kavieng Lorengau/Manus Tabubil of sitting. They may be effective in increasing the disturbance to other passengers. None of the PO Box 7186 Boroko Administration, PO Box 170 Lorengau PO Box 545 Tabubil Sales Domestic & International Reservations & Cargo Administration, Domestic Reservations body’s circulation and massaging the muscles. following should be performed if they cause Tel: 327 3444 Fax: 327 3308 Tel: 984 2135 Reservations & Cargo Tel: 548 3244 Fax: 548 9189 We recommend you do these exercises for three or pain or cannot be done with ease. Reconfirmation Domestic & Airport: Tel: 470 9092 Fax: 470 9382 International Reservations International Tel: 984 2105 Fax: 984 2337 Tel: 548 3325 Tel: 327 3444 Madang Arrival & Departure Information Kieta PO Box 140 Madang Tari Agent Tel: 327 3300 PO Box 186, Arawa, Administration & Reservations Tel: 540 8023 Autonomous Region of Cargo Enquiries Tel: 852 2255 Fax: 852 2079 Bougainville Tel: 327 3245 Vanimo Tel: 975 1013 Cargo Charter Enquiries Mendi PO Box 239 Vanimo PO Box 210 Mendi Tel: 857 1014 Fax: 857 1473 Cargo: 327 3226 Pass: 327 3370 Kimbe-Hoskins Head Office Administration & Reservations Airport PO Box 181 Kimbe Tel: 549 1233 Fax: 549 1250 Tel: 857 7166 Airport & Administration Administration, Reservations & Cargo Jacksons Airport Saraga Airport Traffic Tel: 983 5077 Fax: 983 5669 Tel: 549 1320 Wabag & Wapenamanda Tel: 327 3200/325 9000 Arrival & Departure Information PO Box 213 Wabag Alotau Tel: 985 0012 Mt Hagen Administration PO Box 3 Alotau Gurney Airport PO Box 3 Mt Hagen Tel: 547 1274 Kiunga Reservations Domestic Arrival & Departure Information Tel: 641 0158 PO Box 346, Kiunga, Tel: 542 1183/542 1122 Tel: 547 1286 Administration & Reservations Western Province Reservations International Tel: 641 1031 Fax: 641 1636 Tel: 649 1422 ANKLE CIRCLES KNEE LIFTS SHOULDER ROLL ARM CURL KNEE TO CHEST FORWARD FLEX Tel: 542 1039 Waigani PO Box 7186 Boroko Lift feet off the floor: Lift leg with knee Hunch shoulders Start with arms held Bend forward slightly. With both feet on Buka Kundiawa Enquiries Tel: 325 1055 Fax: 325 3683 Draw a circle with toes, bent while contracting forward, then upward, high at 90° angle - Clasp hands around the floor and stomach PO Box 169 PO Box 847 Kundiawa Tel: 545 1444 Fax: 542 2361 simultaneously moving your thigh muscle. then backward, elbows down, hands left knee and hug it held in slowly, bend Buka Sales Tel: 735 1273 Popondetta Wewak one foot clockwise Alternate legs. then downward out in front. Raise to your chest. Hold forward to walk your Tel: 973 9655 Fax: 973 9656 Lae PO Box 145 Popondetta PO Box 61 Wewak and the other foot Repeat 20-30 times using a gentle hands up to chest stretch for 15 seconds. hands down the front Airport Sales Administration, Domestic, Reservations counter clockwise. for each leg. circular motion. and back down Keeping hands around of your legs towards Tel: 973 9082 Tel: 856 2433 Reservations & Cargo Tel: 329 7022 Fax: 329 7227 Reverse circles. alternating arms. knee, slowly let it your ankles. Hold International & Domestic Daru Tel: 472 3111 Fax: 472 4758 Airport Do each direction Do these exercises in down. Alternate legs. stretch for 15 seconds Tel: 856 2367 Fax: 856 2203 PO Box 58, Daru, Western Province International Reservations Tel: 329 7191 for 15 seconds. 30 second intervals. Repeat 10 times. and slowly sit back up. Airport Tel: 975 1013 Tel: 472 4744 Repeat if desired. Rabaul Tel: 856 2367 Goroka Lihir PO Box 3120 Rabaul PO Box 683 Goroka Reservations Reservations & Sales Reservations Tel: 986 5151 Fax: 986 5134 Tel: 983 9325 Fax: 982 9034 Tel: 732 1444 Fax: 732 1439 Tokua Airport Arrival & Departure Information Tel: 983 9821

OVERHEAD STRETCH SHOULDER STRETCH NECK ROLL FOOT PUMPS Raise both arms Reach right hand With shoulders Foot motion is in 2. Put both 3. Lift heels straight up and over over left shoulder. relaxed, drop ear to three stages. feet flat on high, keeping your head. With one Place left hand behind shoulder and gently 1. Start with both the floor. balls of feet on floor. hand grasp the wrist right elbow and gently roll neck forward and heels on the floor Continue these of the opposite hand press elbow towards to the other side, and point feet three stages with and gently pull to shoulder. Hold stretch holding each position upwards as high continuous motion one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. about 5 seconds. as you can. in 30 second for 15 seconds. Repeat other side. Repeat 5 times. intervals. Repeat other side.

430x285mm_BSP eBanking_PIB_210717.pdf 1 7/31/2017 8:28:37 AM

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