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Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour

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Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour ASSOCIATION FOR CONSUMER RESEARCH Labovitz School of Business & Economics, University of Minnesota Duluth, 11 E. Superior Street, Suite 210, Duluth, MN 55802 Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour Gap Lynn Sudbury, Liverpool Business School, UK Sebastian Böltner, Liverpool Business School, UK The purpose of this paper is to analyse two current trends in the fashion market: ethical issues and throwaway fashion, and probe the attitude-behaviour gap between them. Using depth interviews with 10 young urban consumers, findings reveal a clear and large gap between positive attitudes toward ethical fashion but no actual consumption of such fashion. Consumers blamed price, affordability, and a lack of ethical fashion in mainstream markets and media, whilst the rich data revealed a detachment phenomenon where consumers shifted responsibility to third parties. Implications for marketing and consumer behaviour are presented. [to cite]: Lynn Sudbury and Sebastian Böltner (2011) ,"Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour Gap", in E - European Advances in Consumer Research Volume 9, eds. Alan Bradshaw, Chris Hackley, and Pauline Maclaran, Duluth, MN : Association for Consumer Research, Pages: 163-168. [url]: http://www.acrwebsite.org/volumes/1006845/eacr/vol9/E-09 [copyright notice]: This work is copyrighted by The Association for Consumer Research. For permission to copy or use this work in whole or in part, please contact the Copyright Clearance Center at http://www.copyright.com/. Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour Gap Lynn Sudbury, Liverpool John Moores University, UK Sebastian Böltner, Liverpool John Moores University, UK ABSTRACT as “the extent to which people are left by their culture to their own The purpose of this paper is to analyse two current trends in devices in terms of meeting their own survival needs, determining the fashion market: ethical issues and throwaway fashion, and probe the directions their lives will take, and making myriad choices along the attitude-behaviour gap between them. Using depth interviews the way” (Coté and Schwartz 2002, p.573). Clearly, therefore, in- with 10 young urban consumers, findings reveal a clear and large dividualisation is a complex process and it has been analysed from gap between positive attitudes toward ethical fashion but no actual different theoretical perspectives. consumption of such fashion. Consumers blamed price, affordability, One perspective is Gross’ (1994) multi-optional society, which and a lack of ethical fashion in mainstream markets and media, argues that society has seen a decrease in obligations and an increase whilst the rich data revealed a detachment phenomenon where in options. These changes signify an increase in personal freedom, consumers shifted responsibility to third parties. Implications for thus enabling individuals to have more choice and more personal marketing and consumer behaviour are presented. influence over their own lives. However, such freedom can also be perceived as personal pressure because it demands permanent INTRODUCTION decision-making and evaluation of possible consequences. Increased choice is also connected with high levels of personal risk (Beck 1992). Over recent years two conflicting trends have emerged in West- An example of the binary relatedness of risk and choice is the issue ern culture that have influenced fashion marketing. First, the rise of of employment: a young person in today’s society has many more an ethical movement has been observed, with issues of sustainability choices, including jobs, apprenticeships, or further education, than placed firmly on the agenda of contemporary society, and forcing someone of the same age had 30 years ago. This freedom however a paradigm shift toward ethical and socially responsible marketing also represents higher levels of perceived risk and uncertainty as jobs (Crane and Matten 2007). Sevond, a process of individualisation are not as secure and long-term-orientated as they were in the past. A is taking place (Coté & Schwartz 2002; Wallace 1995; Z-Punkt logical consequence of increased variety, choice and freedom is also 2007), amplified by phenomena such as de-traditionalisation (Hee- that individual life becomes less comparable or similar to other lives las 1996), modernisation or post-modernisation (Inglehart 1997), and thus more individualised. Other social developments that favour globalisation (Scholte 2000), and fragmentation (Giddens 1991). individualization include the detachment of the individual from firm Consequently, evidence of individualisation can be seen in facets social concepts in the working environment (Sennett 1998) where of society such as flexible short-term work contracts (Doogan employers expect flexibility and mobility from employees, while 2001; Sennett 1998), the end of the nuclear family (Bengston 2001; offering short-term contracts instead of the lifelong-employment Popenoe 1988; 1993), the trend toward many and loose, instead of of earlier generations (Doogan 2001); de-traditionalisation, which less and strong, relationships (Z-Punkt 2007), and the creation of describes an increased detachment of the individual from traditional micro-segments in marketing. Ethical consumption calls for ethical social institutions such as the church or labour unions (Heelas 1996) consciousness and an emphasis on responsibility, sustainability, and the encouragement of the individual to engage in more but less and long-term benefits for future generations, while the process of strong social relationships; and increases in the fragmentation (Gid- individualisation supports short-term, self-expressive consumption. dens 1991) of aspects of life, such as the rise of the patchwork-family Clothing and apparel are goods that can be manufactured at the expense of the traditional nuclear family. and marketed from both perspectives: ethical fashion and organic clothing appeal to ethical awareness, whereas cheap, seasonal Individualisation as a Dynamic Enforcer of Consumption throwaway clothing can express individualism in the short term Increased freedom of choice results automatically in an increased and be disposed of easily due to its low price. Recent academic need to construct self-identity (Giddens 1991) and express individual- research has investigated ethical and fast or throwaway fashion ity. Because individuality is less directed by consistent institutional separately, and has failed to analyse these phenomena together. and traditional guidelines, each individual must create and design This research therefore fills a gap in knowledge by analysing both his or her own self-identity (Vogt 2002). This process includes the together. Moreover, the marketing literature pertaining to ethical projection of messages to others via the acquisition of goods and consumption has identified a marked discontinuity between inten- lifestyle practices (Dunlap et al. 2002), particularly consumer goods tions and behaviour, noting, “there appears to be a gap between with high levels of self-expression (Belk 1988; Hellmann 2003; Mef- what consumers say about the importance of ethical issues and fert 2002). Indeed, critics argue that some people now perceive others what they do at the checkout counter” (Auger and Devinney 2007, based on their consumption decisions rather than their individual p.361). This paper therefore also investigates the attitude-behavior character and behaviour (Klein 2001; Quart 2003). Schulze (1992) gap pertaining to fashion consumption. also argues that with individualisation comes increased hedonism. Moreover, in addition to basic and advanced demands, indi- INDIVIDUALISATION viduals now expect consumption goods to perform transformative The phenomenon of individualisation, which is characterised functions (“transform me” or “change me”) (Bolz 2002, p.98-99), by placing an emphasis on the individual in society, has been sub- leading to society being “orientated toward continuous change and ject to academic discussion within the disciplines of sociology and progress” (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood 2006, p.260). Baudrillard anthropology for many years. Due to the impacts of late modernity (1998, p.100) refers to this self-imposed transformative process or post-modernity, individualisation became ‘‘the tendency towards from a fashion perspective, noting that the cycle of fashion leads increasingly flexible self-awareness as the individual must make to people changing “their clothes, their belongings, their cars-on a decisions and choose identities from among an increasingly complex yearly, monthly or seasonal basis.” range of options’’ (Wallace 1995, p.13), and can now be defined 163 European Advances in Consumer Research Volume 9, © 2011 164 / Fashion Marketing and the Ethical Movement Versus Individualist Consumption: Analysing the Attitude Behaviour Gap ETHICAL ISSUES AND SUSTAINABILITY attitudes toward throwaway and ethical fashion to analyze results. A logical consequence of increased consumption is increased disposal of waste, packaging, and often, in today’s “throwaway METHOD society” (McCarthy 2004; Morrisson 2007), intact goods for which In order to probe this potentially sensitive issue, and given new replacements have been purchased. The latter point is particu- that throwaway fashion and ethical fashion have never before been larly true for fashion
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