Diane Becker Mark Pompelia Tutor Craft the Leather Art Librarian for Visual + Material Resources Fleet Library at Rhode Island School of Design

It is very rare today to really know is the sense of respect for nature, Mark Pompelia, joined us, with his highly Craft the Leather offers an incomparable School of Design happened to spend into an upcoming sabbatical proposal. where “things” come from. Products, most obviously present in the research informed interest in the process of the experience as both immersion and formative time in San Miniato. The very next day after submitting that materials, ingredients are just there (or facilities dedicated to the reduction of development and qualities of leather, exhibition program. As a librarian who oversees the non-text proposal, I was asked to be the tutor for easily accessible)- ready to be used, the environmental impact of the tanning and Dean Snyder, an artist who has From its focus on a single material and collections in the Fleet Library at RISD the 2015 program: instead of waiting two transformed, consumed. But even as industry and the impressive water worked extensively sculpting rawhide, a particular process - vegetable-tanned (digital images, video, and a six year old years for this experience, I waited only we have become aware that there is no treatment plants, but echoed in the who focused on the plasmatic qualities leather in the San Miniato leather district collection of 32,000 material samples) two months. “away” to throw things after our use, we strongly rooted sense of seasonality in of the skins on their way to becoming the of Tuscany - we learn the totality of - an exhilarating charge at such a Without doubt, Craft the Leather is an also realize we need to look upstream the food (Slow Food and Kilometer 0), finished leather. Dinner conversation and that material: its centuries-old mission preeminent institution, I work not just idyllic week in the heart of Tuscany to understand the whole picture. the local wines and olive oil. Then there the creative exploratory workshops were and purpose, the trajectory of that to acquire items and provide the best that few tourists will ever enjoy. But Designers and makers know that it is is a strong sense of the continuity of enriched by their contributions. origin to continued relevance, and access to them, but to activate them, to the program has generated a forward- indeed our concern and responsibility to aesthetics and ethics in the stewardship Ultimately, we can appreciate that the ways to engage anew through creative foster their teachability. All those parts, looking legacy for me: overwhelmingly comprehend the impact of our work and of this area along the Arno River valley, value of inspired hard work has informed inspiration. but especially the latter, require my own positive feedback from colleagues led the choices we make. so rich in art and architecture. Even the the creation of the individual collections We learn its culture. learning. Craft the Leather provided a to the idea to modify the program for The values that determine our choices choice of hosting this activity honors presented in this book. Everyone shared This is of huge importance to an unique and unforgettable experience librarians whose subjects and collections create the structure of our lives. the practice of apprenticeship as an the same experience and had access to institution such as Rhode Island School where that material can no longer remain cover materials, fashion, costume, In Tuscany, in the Leather District, we can approach to knowledge, learning through the same raw materials. The final results of Design. One of the oldest art schools just static samples in a bin on a shelf. and textiles, to be offered in autumn perceive directly the culture of values of the experience of working along side a reflect both the culture of each learning in the United States, it was born of a Craft the Leather set a standard by 2016. This coming spring I will speak a community that shapes the production master, to understand the gestures of institute and personal vision of each time when manufacturing production which I hope to engage other materials. formally on the experience at several of an iconic traditional material, Tuscan the craftsman that transmit far more than student as they “craft the leather”. and artisanal design were the two I came to Craft the Leather through a different conferences: as a way to learn veg-tanned leather. technical knowhow. chambers of a still-young nation’s very fortuitous process. Having hosted qualitatively more about our collections, Each year Craft the Leather brings Every Craft the Leather workshop has its industrial heart. In the 21st century, RISD part of the exhibition in my library space as a model for embedded librarianship together a group of exceptional talents, own distinct character, created by the - with its continued focus on discipline- when it traveled in October 2014 to where we participate in the educational inviting them to share in the daily life interests of the members of the group. based learning - teaches students that Providence, I met the key organizers and life of our students, and as a model for of the territory to experience first hand This year, in addition to a well-rounded critical thinking + critical making = the personnel of the program. That made our profession where digitization has how these values are expressed across company of designer/makers, the best design. It makes me wonder if the such an impression that I added a Craft taken us too far away from the material. multiple activities. First and foremost director of the Material Library at RISD, founding women of the Rhode Island the Leather style immersion experience

ArtEZ - Institute of the Arts Arnhem - The Netherlands Fashion Institute of Technology New York City, NY - USA

The ArtEZ Product Design Department it makes our department energetic FIT’s Accessories Design Program - the industry. FIT’s Manhattan location values ambition, craftsmanship and and enterprising. Our teachers work first of its kind in the U.S. - offers the provides unparalleled opportunities know-how. Being a successful student internationally, connecting a network to Associate in Applied Science degree for real world experience through field to us means making the field of design our department. All this makes Product and the Bachelor of Fine Arts degree, trips, networking, industry-sponsored your own, reinterpreting existing ideas Design Arnhem an educational node of plus the country’s only certificate competitions, and internships at top and standards. We ask our students to expertise and diversity. Our network is programs in Millinery and Performance accessories firms. The Fashion Institute foster an inquisitive attitude, a workshop extensive and includes collaborations Athletic Footwear. Students learn how of Technology (FIT), a college of the mentality and a critical view of the world. with companies, so our students can to design, construct, and produce a full State University of New York, has been a Educating a new generation of designers develop a unique perspective on material range of accessories. Faculty members leader in career education in art, design, is possible only in close cooperation and collaboration. are industry professionals who teach business, and technology for 70 years. with the field of professional design. www.artez.nl the skills needed for success in the www.fitnyc.edu. We would not want it to be otherwise,

HAMK - Hämeenlinna - Finland Bunka Fashion College Tokyo - Japan Häme University Häme University of Applied Sciences manufacturing process of the product, A school that is a world leader of fashion, Accessories and Textile Department aims of Applied Sciences (HAMK) is a multidisciplinary higher with a customer orientated approach Bunka Fashion College is a forerunner to teach expertise and skills that can education institution situated centrally and understanding the importance of of fashion education in Japan. respond to footwear, bag, millinery and in the most populated area of southern economic and ecological standpoints Knowing that it must produce powerful jewelry industries’ trends, and to develop Finland. HAMK has 7 campuses with in the design process. The students leaders for the fashion industry, human resources that can demonstrate around 7200 students, 750 teachers and gain expertise in the materials of their the college has established four creativity with imagination. other staff and 30 degree programmes, of design field and product-specific quality courses that follow all aspects of the www.bunka-fc.ac.jp which 6 are delivered entirely in English. requirements.Our footwear department industry. Among these courses, Fashion HAMK Design studies are divided into is the only one giving Bachelor-level three study paths: clothing, footwear, education in the whole of Scandinavia. glass and ceramics. The studies aim www.hamk.fi Central Saint Martins - London - United Kingdom at mastering the entire design and University of the Arts London MA Design; Jewellery is part of the renowned for the creative energy of its renowned ‘by project’ Masters in Design students, staff and graduates with an Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry Tokyo - Japan at Central Saint Martins where specialist exceptional reputation for educating students from jewellery, ceramics and foundation, undergraduate, postgraduate Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry is of developing design fields. furniture, design and innovate together. and research students in arts, design the only government authorized Our educational policy “Man & Object” Course Alumni include Fernando Jorge, and performance. Alumni include jewelry college in Japan. As a college informs all areas of study: all products Gunjan Gupta, Alice Cicolini, Noor Fares Francesca Amfitheatrof, Emilia Clarke, nurturing “making” and creative design are designed with a good understanding and many others who are changing the Gilbert and George, Christopher Kane, techniques, it has grown with the of the human structure and the face of the industry. Stella McCartney, and Alexander creation of the Watch, Shoe, and Bag relationship of objects to the body. Central Saint Martins, part of University of McQueen. departments, and in 2012, the Tokyo The pieces produced by the students the Arts London (UAL), is internationally www.arts.ac.uk/csm/ College Cycle Design. can be considered art pieces as well as We are very proud of having attracted fashion/product designs directly related global recognition, with numerous to contemporary life styles. international programs, as an academy www.hikohiko.jp Kookmin University Seoul - South Korea SLEM Waalwijk - The Netherlands

Kookmin University is one of the At the same time, the designers need the SLEM (Shoes Leather Education which we prepare our students. Our leading private universities in Korea. Its ability to incorporate scientific technology Museum) is an international innovation Master program of Footwear Innovation educational goal is to foster and educate with artistic visions in their creative and education center for footwear that eliminates the typical department leaders who make a difference in the work to keep current with the worldwide includes a consulting department, a divisions between technology, design and global community. Kookmin University trends, and to maintain traditional forecasting department, a footwear marketing, providing a multi-disciplinary provides students with opportunities and cultural relevance to the society. museum and an education institute that platform for both students and to have academic, cultural, and In this respect, College of Design at offers full time master programs as well as professionals from diverse backgrounds. professional worldwide experiences and Kookmin University aims at providing the part time workshops for professionals. The program deals with translating future an insight for the future. Designers of students with an established curriculum At SLEM our aim is to transfer, maintain visions into sustainable designs as well the 21st century are expected to create incorporating the spirit of time into design and improve footwear knowledge and as in innovative business concepts sustainable designs that resonate with education. the overall industry by bringing new that are capable of uniting the creative, the individuals in society. design.kookmin.ac.kr technologies, creative thinking and commercial and technical dimensions of cutting-edge methods into practice. the footwear industry. Ultimately we aim at We do all this through research, creating meaningful, applied innovation in London College of Fashion - London - United Kingdom teaching and applying new methods the footwear and related industries. University of the Arts London that are suitable for the future for www.slem.nl Europe’s largest specialist arts and Originally a prestigious school for design university, with close to 19,000 shoemakers, the education has evolved students from more than 100 countries. over the past 125 years to accommodate Established in 2004, University of the new ideas and new needs. Arts London is a vibrant world centre for Today the BA (Hons) Cordwainers innovation, drawing together six colleges Fashion Bags and Accessories: Product with international reputations in Design and Innovation course is art, design, fashion, communication and concerned with the design, development performing arts including the London and realization of fashion bags and College of Fashion, which was founded accessory products for the fashion in the early 20th century. The tradition of accessories market through both the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers traditional craftsmanship and modern is at the heart of the footwear and technologies. accessories courses. www.arts.ac.uk/fashion/

Rhode Island School of Design Providence, RI - USA

The Rhode Island School of Design, global society through critical thinking, RISD’s mission, through its college and scholarship, innovation and critical museum, is to educate its students making. and the public in the creation and www.risd.edu appreciation of works of art and design, to discover and transmit knowledge and to make lasting contributions to a

The beauty of working with leather is that what he said was admirable. (Of course, The luminous beauty of leather the more you use it, the more fabulous some people would disagree with using it becomes. This vintage and classic elephant hide from the start if it comes to beauty is what I love about leather. “the sake of elephant”.) These days, when trends are superficial But I believe treasuring old well-made and quickly changing, I miss the past products is better than throwing them when we used well made hand-me-down away because of change in trends. leather bags. The classic, enduring aspect of leather Once I bought a leather backpack that is the concept I am focusing on in this I always wanted to have, and went project. I started to research Hanbok, the to school shouldering the bag with traditional Korean costume, and other excitement. When I arrived at school, traditional products. After that, I made my friend asked me what kind of leather those items, including Hanbok, with the bag was made of. I said that it leather. In order to create an impression was elephant hide, and he said “Poor similar to the fabric of Hanbok, I made elephant...you should use it with loving the leather translucent. care for the sake of elephant”. I thought The luminous beauty of leather Cut it, wet it, stretch it, mould it, dry it. In the first piece leather remains in its Cutting Edge The discovery of the unique natural state and stretch is conveyed characteristics of vegetable-tanned through cuts. In the second one, “cut- leather led to an unstoppable iterative wet-stretch-mould-dry” has an aesthetic process. Working and playing almost reason, to open the cuts and reach compulsively with this material set the a subtler materiality. In the third one, foundation for the collection. the same processes have a structural An explorative journey through necessity, being that the entire piece vegetable-tanned leather’s materiality, is supported only by the rigidity of the using a jewellery designer’s eye and leather strips. approach for the re-visitation of three Where it was indispensible in the traditional women’s garments. making process, the collection has been Such garments acted as shields for produced by hand. In other parts, I have protection, now enhanced by the intimate enhanced the process using machinery relationship a wearer establishes with like the cutting plotter. a product that ages with them, telling a personal story. Cutting Edge Sanae Kitamura

The San Bartolo Murals of Guatemala, hidden, but becoming more apparent Devised Burden in Degradé their significance, and specifically upon closer inspection -- a layering the way in which their creators chose of techniques, some becoming totally to reflect natural beauty are a direct lost beneath the final applications. influence in the creation of this project. Integrating the hard, curvilinear lines with The darkness of the actions taking place the softness of degradé, and fusing a in the murals is hopefully echoed in juxtaposition of masculine and feminine the overall effect of the ensemble, as body language, in material-conscious well as in the exquisite details -- initially wearables. Devised Burden in Degradé I love sneakers and casual street laser cut vegetable-tanned leather. Bare skate runner fashion. My collection is inspired by With laser cut patterns I wanted to sport footwear. I studied the structures imitate mesh textile and other materials of barefoot shoes, running shoes and often used in sport footwear. Hand skateboarding shoes. I wanted to stitching and leather soles inlaid with experiment using vegetable-tanned rubber are also important to my creative leather with these structures. The whole concept. Old traditional ways meet collection has been handmade from innovative technique and fashion. Bare skate runner I made three symbolic shoes inspired by a woman at her wedding. Life of a woman and her kimono kimono, which is a traditional costume in The crane is a symbol of good luck for -Embroidery- Japan. I focused on embroidery among the the beginning of a new life. decorative techniques of kimono, because I The last one is “TOMESODE”, worn by a feel one stitch is like one step of life. married woman. There are 3 types of kimono. They each The two cranes represent the eternal have different meanings. best partner. The first one is “FURISODE” worn by an Each person colors their life individually, unmarried woman. that’s why I didn’t color the leather of my Here an abundance of flowers express shoes. youthfulness and energy. Life advances stitch by stitch, so The next one is “SHIROMUKU”, worn by embroidery is important to me. Life of a woman and her kimono -Embroidery- Breaking the rules about dividing shoes 1000 years. I took inspiration from old Nomad between an upper and an outsole. Think craft and tradition combining it with vertical not horizontal. My goal is to create future technology. I wanted to create a sustainable construction with mechanical a construction where there would be connection by using one material – Veg- no difference between the upper and tanned sole leather - with no glue. outsole. The properties of veg-tanned After returning from Italy I began leather allowed me to break the rules researching ethnic footwear, taking about dividing the shoe into the upper inspiration from the Shoes or no Shoes and outsole by creating a sustainable museum collection in Belgium, I studied construction with no glue where the the connection between the 2 main outsole is the upper and the upper is the parts of the shoe as we know it today outsole. - upper and outsole – across the last Nomad I have always felt a certain resentment makes sense and feels very logical. This Beyond Limitations toward sewing and stitching machines vegetable-tanned leather doesn’t need because they are so definite and decoration and embellishments and I unforgiving in their execution. With this focused on the qualities, characteristics strong but mouldable vegetable-tanned and properties it already possessed. leather I was able to avoid the standard The focus point is the leather; external connecting (stitching) technique. Having materials are only used if highly one sole that is the base of the collection, necessary. Because this design is going which defines the possibilities for endless to travel and be exhibited packing shoe tops, also creates limitations. material was implemented to complete all Because of these limitations the design logical functions. Beyond Limitations The inspiration comes from animals living I polished the leather. For me, that’s the In the sea in the sea, including coral, sea anemone most attractive part, the glamour of veg- and starfish, which are so beautiful and tanned leather. The look of it can change fantastic. year by year and become more beautiful, Another source of inspiration is plywood. especially the shine and patina. As time I saw some design furniture made of goes by, it speaks stories. plywood, and it occurred to me that Each of the pieces is sewn completely leather has some similar features, by hand. I think handmade has more although even more special, because character and feeling, it’s better than leather can be twisted and crafted. machine made. In the sea Inspired by the masterpieces of Piet a leather layer that was moulded on the White Mondrian. Mondrian. This project is based on veg last. Over this layer other layers were The wooden shoes tan leather as the main material and attached to create the main structure for source of inspiration and secondly the the sculptural shapes. Separately, blocks geometric lines of the well-known artist . of leather were glued and cut by knife. As In this project the idea was to experiment a result, strips of leather with a wooden and push the boundaries in the use of appearance were obtained. the material to create new aesthetics White Mondrian is about wooden shoes within the footwear industry. Being that are made with leather. A mixture familiar with the properties of veg tan of old white wood and the look of leather, my intention was to unify my shiny brown wood contribute to make previous knowledge and explore new a noticeable contrast between the possibilities. geometric lines, the volume of the figures The shoes were constructed thanks to and the textures. White Mondrian. The wooden shoes Focusing on the inherent properties of throughout all cultures in antiquity lend Recupero dal santuario dio pelle vegetable-tanned leather, I wanted to a primal impression to such objects. create objects exhibiting precisely such Hats – due to their functional or aesthetic qualities unique to the material. A series purposes – allude to characters and of moulding manipulations are used in personas that leave a conscious or developing both masks and hats, while subconscious impression in our minds different surface treatments reveal luster when donned. and richness that gain patina over time. By exploring these emotional traits There is something alluring about that emanate from “headwear”, I was pieces that adorn our heads. It may be intrigued by what impulses could a dichotomy of familiarity and mystery be evoked in the viewer while in the that draws us toward them. The theatrical presence of this triad. and ritualistic origins of masks found Recupero dal santuario dio pelle The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned and processes used in its production and that respect the Rules of Production and Leather Consortium was founded in 1994 to highlight traditional techniques whose Technical Standards established by the by a small group of traditional Tuscan origins lie deep in Tuscan history. consortium or, under license, tanners. Today the consortium includes Yet the consortium also looks to the by manufacturers who use leather 22 tanneries, all operating in Tuscany, future: sponsoring research, organizing produced by consortium members. in the area between Pisa and Florence, events and seminars on emerging www.pellealvegetale.it and sharing the same standards of trends, and holding workshops for young production. In the Tuscan Leather designers, makers and producers. District, high quality vegetable-tanned Students from fashion and design leather is still produced according to an institutes are given guided tours of the ancient method. The expertise of master tanneries, and information is published craftsmen, using tannins extracted exploring the characteristics and quality exclusively from tree bark and plants and of the leather. all the time necessary, creates natural The consortium acts as guarantor and leathers that are perfect for a wide variety ambassador of Tuscan excellence of end use. By the skillful combination of throughout the world. technology and tradition, the members It has consolidated this position with the of the consortium produce leathers that creation of a trademark guaranteeing satisfy the demands of a niche market the quality, origin and traceability of where not only high quality, but also style leathers produced by its member and individuality are fundamental. tanneries. Presented as an elegantly The mission of this non-profit organization scripted certificate of warranty, thePelle is: to promote vegetable-tanned leather; Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana label is to safeguard a typical Tuscan product; the property of the consortium and can to guarantee the quality of raw materials only be used by its member tanneries Dean Snyder Professor: Sculpture Rhode Island School of Design

I was honored to be included as a was wasted including the hide. In our formable than any I worked before. visiting artist and guest of the Consorzio community the cowhide was tanned The installation I made in the olive at this year’s “Craft the Leather” and then worked into useful items. trees at the Monastery was a gesture workshop in San Miniato. Leather was an integral byproduct to the overwhelming compliance of the I was eager to learn more about the in our agricultural ecosphere. As a material and the benevolence of the tanning processes and understand the sculptor I have used cow hide in the source of it to humans. Working in hide I properties and forming possibilities rawhide state, pelle non conciata, for experience a complex array of emotions of vegetan leather. For many years its cultural associations and physical along the timeline of my life. From my I worked with rawhide,(untanned properties. It is translucent, and readily youth on the farm to this moment, at cowhide), in my sculpture studio formed into complex shapes, while San Miniato, I was particularly moved to practice. I taught myself the basics in never surrendering the factness that it is let the material speak for itself. the craft of harness stitching studying unprocessed, unrefined, crude skin. Here, back in my studio in the United First Nation Peoples, Gaucho, Paniolo Overall my experience in San Miniato States retrospectively, I am particularly and Cowboy rawhide craft. For me this was incredibly enlightening and aware of how my understanding of what was a unique opportunity to acquire energizing. While there I had the is required to work leather at the upper new skills in workshops with esteemed chance to experiment in forming and tier of the craft sustained an enormous leather craftsmen in San Miniato and carving vegetan leather and work with blush of growth through my brief but Florence and to learn about the process the finest rawhide of my career. I have significant encounters with Stefano of vegetable tanning at the source. made rawhide in my studio from green Parrini and Mario Bemer. My interest in cowhide reaches back hide, however, the hide I was gifted by into my youth. I grew up on a livestock the owners of the Tannery we visited Sincerely, farm in Pennsylvania. I observed was by a long measure a superior Dean Snyder my father, who was a large animal product to anything I had worked veterinarian, working with livestock on before. I was particularly aware that a daily basis. During annual butchering the hide at this stage of the tanning I witnessed how no part of the cow process was by far more supple and Catalogue of the work inspired by the weeklong international workshop exploring the culture, tradition and innovative possibilities of a product of local excellence: Tuscan Vegetable-tanned Leather. Photography by Luca Palatresi.

with special thanks to all of the community that makes Craft the Leather possible: Mario Bemer, Stefano Parrini, Giorgio Testi, Calzaturificio Buttero, Pelletteria CI-VA, Dott. Domenico Castiello, PO.TE.CO., Consorzio CuoioDepur and all the staff at the Fondazione Conservatorio Santa Chiara.

Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale Piazza Spalletti Stellato, 12 - 56024 Ponte a Egola - Pisa - Italy Tel. +39 0571 485158 - Fax. +39 0571 499450 www.pellealvegetale.it - [email protected] fuoricentrostudio.com