FOOD GUIDE to EAT • DRINK • EXPERIENCE

This guide is researched and written by Supriya Sehgal 2 plan your trip Contents 3

Contents

The of Karnataka...... 4 10 Top Experiences...... 8 Bengaluru...... 14 Detour: Mysuru ...... 28 Kodagu (Coorg)...... 30 Mangaluru & ...... 38 Chikkamagaluru & Around...... 46 Index...... 52 Acknowledgements...... 54 4 plan your trip The Cuisines of Karnataka 5

foreword However, the is far from The Cuisines of Karnataka monolithic, with traditional dishes varying from region to region. Divya Prabhakar Northern region Karnataka’s sweeping coastlines, lush hills, The northern region (p51)–which cosmopolitan cities, and tradition-loving towns includes Dharwad, Bijapur, Gulbarga, , Raichur, and have resulted in excitingly diverse cuisines, with parts of Bellary, among others—is influences from other states in the region and partial to jowar flour , brinjal, beyond. With a staggering variety of , , peanut and sesame , a red chilli paste called ranjaka and sweets on the platter, as well as non-veg preparations featuring saaru (lentil soup), and pork to prawns, no one goes hungry here. like shenga unde (peanut ladoos). The 12th-century Chalukya king Digging into history Someshvara who ruled this part Karnataka’s culinary heritage has been simmering for a long time, with some of the state wrote a book called Ranjaka (red chilli paste) spices up meals in food historians saying that its origins go back to the Iron Age. Over time, Manasollasa to document royal the topography and external cultural influences–from Islamic to British– pastimes, with a focus on royal have flavoured regional variations. Trade, too, played an important part in recipes and the art of cooking. The book mentions several ingredients that importing ingredients from different countries, especially ragi (finger ), are still in use. which is said to have originated in Africa in the 8th century. The working class in adopted this as a nourishing and economical substitute to . Southern Karnataka This region includes Bengaluru (p14) and Mysuru (p28), and today offers Ragi mudde (finger millet balls) are often eaten with soppu saaru (a lentil soup with greens) cuisines from around the country and beyond to diners. However, many staples are still rooted in tradition. In many homes, ragi mudde (finger millet balls), benne (butter dosa), akki (rice roti), bisi bele bhath (lentil and rice dish), kesari bhath (a saffron-tinged sweet) and vengi bhath (brinjal rice) continue to rule the roost.

Udupi cuisine (p40) is rooted in vegetables and fruits, given that it originated in the ashta maths (eight monasteries) founded by monk Shri in the 13th century. The origin of the omnipresent dosa and is also said to be in Udupi, though food historians bicker about this.

Coastal fare Coastal (Bunt), Navayath and North Kanara cuisines include an abundance of seafood delicacies and . The port city of Mangaluru (p38) in particular is a beacon for foodies thanks to the famous neer dosa (thin dosa), kori rotti (shredded roti), and seafood galore, including rich roasts and -based curries. 6 plan your trip The Cuisines of Karnataka 7

Coorgi specialities ). In this rainy part of Karnataka, vegetables and fruit abound. The Kodagu region (p30) commands deep respect amongst non- The cuisine is rich in bamboo shoots, colocassia leaves, turmeric leaves vegetarians for its meat-heavy dishes, especially pandi (pork) curry. and raw . Popular dishes include kaalu kadabu (bean dumplings), and kachampuli (vinegar) are frequently used as flavourings. chattituttu (rice based snack), votthushaavige uppittu (), bamboo shoot curry, halasina dosa (jackfruit dosa) and kaayi holige (coconut ). dishes Districts such as Chikkamagaluru (p46), , and Belur fall into the region Divya Prabhakar is co-founder of the Bengaluru Oota Company, which serves of Malenadu, which roughly translates into the land of the hills (specifically the authentic regional Karnataka cuisine in home-style settings.

Must-try dishes is a popular highway stop for anyone going to for its distinct namesake , a fried donut made with flour, semolina, and spices. With each district offering distinct flavours, Kannadiga cuisine is extremely Pandi curry It is unlikely for anyone to visit Coorg and not find pandi curry diverse. Here are some of the essentials that any food-loving traveller must (pork curry) on the menu or at their table at a homestay. It has a distinct try at least once. Consider this list your first step to understanding the sour flavour that is best tamed by a side of rice balls. cuisine of Karnataka. Bhende puli koddel Okra cooked in freshly made coconut masala without Mysore The hallmark of Mysuru’s cuisine, this dish is onion or garlic is a Mangalorean dish that vegans in particular will relish. distinguished by a spread of fiery red chillies, onion, and garlic chutney on Davangere benne dosa This dosa, which originated in Davangere, is the inside of the dosa, thus offsetting the mild potato stuffing with a dose particularly tasty because of the copious amount of butter that is used to of heat and spice. While you are in Mysuru (p28), also make sure to try the make it. Naturally, the result is deliciously crispy. other snacks that are credited with having originated here, including the Bisi bele bhath Rice, lentils, and vegetables cooked together with tamarind Mysore and the sweet Mysore pak. paste and dry coconut (resembling a ‘khichdi’)—real soul food. Ragi mudde and sopinna saru This is a nutritious and flavourful Kesari bhath Is it a dessert? Is it a dish? It’s a bit of both. A yummy combination that features in home cuisine more than restaurants but is well concoction of semolina, ghee, and sugar that is sometimes flavoured with worth seeking out: ragi mudde are finger millet dough balls that are eaten coconut, mangoes, bananas, or pineapples. Interestingly despite the name, with a green leaf and lentil soup called many people do not use saffron (kesar) to prepare this dish. Holige are sweet stuffed crepes sopinna saru. Bhende puli koddel, a coconutty okra preparation Korri gassi with neer dosa Coastal Karnataka dishes up one of the best country chicken dishes (korri gassi), which is eaten with a floppy white and soft dosa, unlike the crispy versions that are more prevalent. Thatee A large flat idli that resembles a disc is a favourite all-time snack. It tastes just like a regular idli, but a little more is always better! Holige Common to and , the sweet Indian made of lentils and is also called obbattu in the state. Maddur vada Maddur town in 8 Splanummer your Holidays trip 10 Top Food ExperienBest cSesummer in Karnata Holidayska 9 10 Top Food Experiences in Karnataka

1 Bean-to-cup coffee Trail If simply wandering about the lush coffee estates of Coorg or Chikkamagaluru isn’t enough, consider joining in a bean-to-cup trail. The Serai (p50) in Chikkamagaluru offers a particularly immersive experience. The hotel takes visitors through the entire process of harvesting beans, and then drying, roasting, and grinding them to make the freshest cuppa ever. The experience starts in the morning when you go coffee-picking with a guide, learning from plantation workers as you go along. The carefully selected beans are then dried till they turn brown, after which they are roasted and ground at an in-house facility. Finally, you carefully brew your own cup with help from a coffee expert. If you have less time on your hands, you can still enjoy artisinal coffee at one of Bengaluru’s manycafes (p26). Sample responsibly sourced, micro-roasted, and utterly delicious local coffee blends at Bengaluru mainstays such as Third Wave Coffee Roasters 2 and Hatti Kaapi, or a good old-fashioned filter brew at Indian Coffee House. Food festivals and pop-ups Bengaluru has a massive appetite for new food experiences and there are interesting workshops and food festivals galore (keep updated via www. insider.in or www.eventshigh.com). Some mainstays include JW Marriot’s Beers of , Stepping Out Food Festival, Know Your Coffee, Oktoberfest (celebrated with gusto by most microbreweries), and Dessert Bazaar by Little Black Book (LBB). Bengaluru’s popular flea market Soul Sante is great to check out the pop-up scene with home cooks and smaller food brands offering their specialities. For Kannadiga delights, MTR’s two-day festival Karunadu Swada showcases cuisine from six regions (Bidar, Kodagu, Belgaum, Mangaluru, Mysuru, and Udupi) at St. John’s Auditorium. Mysuru’s Dasara Food Mela held during the 10-day festival is another window to the state’s array of culinary treats. 3 Coastal culinary journey You can relish a complete experience of Karnataka’s coastal fare as you drive the nearly 100km stretch along the from Mangaluru to Kundapura. There’s plenty in this region for those who love seafood as well as those who do not. The iconic Shetty Lunch Home (p43) is a good place to start, and is widely believed to be the place where the fragrant ghee roast (try prawn, crab, squid, mackerel, chicken or even paneer and baby corn varieties) originated. For vegetarian staples such as veg , Udupi-style 10 plan your trip 10 Top Food Experiences in Karnataka 11

5 Beer crawls & Vineyard tours Bengaluru is the place to be if you love swilling new brews. The best way to explore the scene is by undertaking a pub crawl (p19). In addition, Toit (p26) offers a 1.5-hour brewery tour on the first Saturday of every month (noon; `600 per head; maximum 20 people) where you can savour brews such as the Basmati Blonde or Dark Knight. Wine lovers are in luck too. Wine tours (p45) have been gaining ground for the last half a decade, encouraging a number of vineyards to delightfully colonise the outskirts of Bengaluru. To sniff and swirl amid lush countryside, just drive down to one of many homegrown thalis, and desserts such as pineapple kesari bhath, head over to Woodlands vineyards for a tour and tasting with the help of a sommelier. (p45) near Sri Krishna at Udupi. You can even tuck into a home- 6 cooked Christian meal by booking an afternoon with Maya and Oswald Pig out in Coorg (p39) in Kadri, Mangaluru. Even though Kodava cuisine has a rich array of dishes, the pandi (pork) preparations are resounding favourites. The best known is the Coorg 4 treats pandi curry, a rich dish with a dark gravy that is assertively flavoured with Thousands of , many of aromatic spices and coriander leaves. Among the many restaurants that them several centuries old, dot feature Coorgi pork dishes are old-timer Coorg Cuisine (p35) in , Karnataka’s length and breadth. which offers a comprehensive And the kind of sustenance they selection of regional recipes. The offer is not only of the spiritual atmospheric Tiger-Tiger (p36), kind. Most temples offer free Taste of Coorg (p37), and Coorg food to visitors during certain Foodlands (p35) are other joints timings, which is a true blessing in Madikeri where you can dig into for those who come from far- rice-sambar meals with boneless flung villages. Most menus for chilli pork, pork pepper fry, pork these community meals feature onion fry, and pandi with bamboo tasty and wholesome dishes such shoots. For a more homely affair, as rice, sambar, pooris, and local head to Folksy Food (p37), where vegetables. One such temple is you are spared the anguish of the Sharada Peetham picking from a menu and can just (p49) in Chikkamagaluru district, sit back and enjoy homemade where you can taste some fresh pork dishes laced with kachampuli Malnad food. (Coorgi vinegar). 12 plan your trip 10 Top Food Experiences in Karnataka 13

7 Get transported 9 MTR If ambience matters to you as Mavalli Tiffin Rooms much as food, Bengaluru has (MTR, p24), formerly just the thing. Fly Dining (p22) is Brahmin Coffee Club, is where fine dining meets extreme one of the most iconic adventure. Patrons get to enjoy restaurants of Bengaluru. a meal suspended 48m off the It has been serving soul ground on an open-air deck with 22 food to devoted patrons guests around the table, three chefs, and wide-eyed travellers a waiter, and a safety inspector. since 1924, in the form of Everyone is strapped to safety crispy dosas, tangy bisi harnesses and a net at the bottom bele bhath, the signature further fortifies the set-up. A crane , and freshly hauls up everyone slowly, affording ground filter coffee. The views of an ever-diminishing city. place has also made idli history: during World War 8 Iftaar feasts II when rice was in short The days of fasting during the month-long Ramadan period are rewarded supply, MTR apparently by evenings of feasting. Most towns and cities have their own special started substituting the grain with semolina. This innovation turned out to streets packed with makeshift stalls during the holy month, but the spread be a big hit and never left the menu. is particularly enticing in Bengaluru, Gulbarga, Bidar, Bijapur, Raichur and a Dharwad. Some of the best-loved specialities are pathhar ka gosht, bheja Sweet delights (brain) fry, , , and seekh , with sweet phirni to wrap up. Karnataka offers many a sweet temptation, from the ghee-soaked Mysore Novel inclusions like chocolate chicken keep food enthusiasts on their toes. In pak to the crunchy chiroti (layered fried pastry) of Mangaluru. Across the Bengaluru, Frazer Town and Mosque Road come alive with hundreds of food state, you will never be too far from your next hit of halbai (coconutty rice stalls; also popular are the streets near Bilal Mosque on Bannerghatta Road cake), rava kesari bhaat (semolina, saffron, dry fruits), holige (crepes stuffed or Johnson Market. Local walks outfit,Bengaluru by Foot (p15) organises a with jaggery), and regional variations of payasam (rice pudding), including a curated walk during this period for those who prefer some expert guidance. delicious version featuring poppy seeds (gasagase payasa). 14 Best Trips Bengaluru 15

5 Eating in Bengaluru The dining options in Bengaluru range from humble ‘darshinis’ and ‘military hotels’ to elegant restaurants and big-name chains. Darshinis: Bengaluru is a haven for quick-service south Indian fare, including at chain restaurants like Adigas, Sukh Sagar, Kamath, and Shanthi Sagar (collectively referred to as darshinis) where you can gulp down your vadas and filter kaapi while standing at your metal table. Military hotels: For robust and cheap non-veg dishes and , a military hotel (p18) is a good bet. Vintage favourites: Bengaluru is dotted with decades-old restaurants (Top) Spice-tossed podi idlis Bengaluru with humble origins but lofty fare, (Across) A pub lunch including the legendary Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR, p24), Vidyarthi Why Go? Bhavan (p24), and Brahmin’s Coffee Top Tip: Food walk You can sample all of Karnataka’s scrumptious regional cuisines in Bar (p25). Dosas, idlis, rice dishes, and filter coffee rule these kitchens. If you’re serious about your Bengaluru, from Mangaluru ghee roasts and Mysuru dosas. Something Regional delights: Various food, a guided culinary walk to drink? There are microbreweries and coffee shops galore. Kannadiga cuisines are experiencing is perfect. Expect an in-depth something of a resurgence. While exploration of a neighbourhood Quick Facts Oota Bangalore (p21) and Halli or type of eatery, with a Mane (p25) offer a sampling of sprinkling of heritage and Getting There & Around: and Namma Metro covers more dishes from across the state, there history. Unhurried (www. Kempegowda International Airport than 40 stations. are also specialists such as the self- unhurried.in) offers a range of is the state’s main air node. explanatory Pearl (p23) food walks (one is dedicated to When to Go Bengaluru is also well connected and The Restaurant–Coorg (p20), biryani alone) and Bengaluru by by train and bus. Karnataka State The weather is pleasant all year, but and the Bengaluru Oota Company Foot (www.bengalurubyfoot.com) Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC; March and April can get hot. (p20) which dishes up home-made hosts culinary tours of various www.ksrtc.in) has a large fleet of Gowda and Mangalorean cuisine. localities. Their Pettah walk is Great For long-distance buses. Within the city, For a contemporary twist on home- great for vegetarians while the there is a comprehensive local bus grown ingredients, The Permit Dastarkhwan walk is a “Muslim network (BMTC; www.mybmtc. com) Room (p26) is an exciting venue. fine-dining experience”. 16 Best Trips Bengaluru 17

5 Culinary Itinerary 800m to check out Bangalore National Gallery of the world of Mysore’s royal Wodeyar Palace, or loop back via Vidhana Modern Art family. Of particular note is the Bengaluru is a dining powerhouse. Soudha for a photo-opportunity Housed in a century-old restored elaborate Durbar Hall, packed with Explore some of the most and make a quick stop at the mansion—the former vacation home paintings, artefacts, mounted animal memorable pubs and restaurants of Government Museum. Want to stop of the Raja of Mysuru—this world- heads, and more. the city with this day-long guide to for a quick refreshing milk shake class art museum showcases an %080 23360818; 1 Palace Rd, sightseeing and sampling food and before lunch? Local institution impressive permanent collection Vasanthanagar; entry Indians/foreigners/ drinks along the way. Lake View Milkbar (p26) is the as well as changing exhibitions. The camera `230/465/695; 10am–5.30pm perfect place to do that. Old Wing exhibits works from pre- MORNING Independence, including paintings Government Museum & Start the day with a morning walk Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens by Raja Ravi Varma. Venkatappa Art Gallery at Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens Spread over 240 acres, Lal Bagh %080 22342338; www.ngmaindia.gov.in; An assortment of artefacts, and then fuel up for the day at the was commissioned by Hyder Ali and 49 Palace Rd, Vasanthanagar; entry adults/ weathered utility objects, famous Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (p24). later completed under the rule of his children/foreigners `10/1/150; weapons, musical instruments After a hearty breakfast, head to the son in 1760. As well as 10am–5pm (closed Mon & national and paintings fill this museum. heart of the town past Cubbon Park amazing centuries-old trees it claims holidays) Exhibits range in era from 10th- to the National Gallery of Modern to have the world’s most diverse century relics to items Art (NGMA), where you can enjoy species of plants. Highlights of the Bangalore Palace associated with 18th-century king a refreshing cup of tea between park include a glasshouse and one Surrounded by landscaped gardens, Tipu Sultan. An attached gallery galleries at the wonderful in-house of the four towers placed by Kempe the late 19th-century Bangalore houses the works and personal cafe. From here either travel another Gowda to mark the boundaries of Palace is reminiscent of ’s memorabilia of K Venkatappa Bangalore in 1537. Windsor Castle, with its Tudor- (1887–1962), court painter to the The NGMA has a collection of Mysore paintings Lal Bagh, Mavalli; entry adults/children/ style turrets and towers. Go inside, Wodeyar rulers. parking `10/free/`10; 6am—7pm though, and you will be taken into %080 22864483; Kasturba Rd; entry adults/children `10/5; 10am–5pm (closed Cubbon Park The offers great photo ops Mon & Sat) In the heart of Bengaluru’s business district, the 296-acre expanse of Cubbon Park encompasses three major monuments: the Seshadri Iyer Memorial Library, the 1876-built State Archaeological Museum and the Attara Kacheri (court). Other wonderful colonial architecture around the park includes the colossal neo- Dravidian-style Vidhana Soudha (Dr Ambedkar Road), which makes a magnificent backdrop for photo-fanatics. www.horticulture.kar.nic.in/cubbon.htm; Kasturba Rd; 5am–8pm 18 Best Trips Bengaluru 19

picks. For dessert dash around to EVENING Snapshot: Military hotels Corner House (%080 25583262; 45/3 Spend the evening for pub hopping Gopalkrishna Complex, Near Mayo Hall, in Indiranagar, starting from Bob’s Though there is some ambiguity about the exact origins of Bengaluru’s Residency Rd; 11am–11.30pm) for their Bar (p27); also pop into Levitate military hotels, their name is attributed to the fact that these unfussy sinful ‘Death by Chocolate’. (p27), to shop for boho accessories. establishments mostly served British and Indian soldiers. Food critic If you’re looking to relax or just catch Then walk down to mainstay Toit and the author of Bangalore’s Sapad Raman Ajit Saldanha notes, “In the up on emails, then Church Street (p27), Sly Granny (where there British Indian Army, all classes and castes ate together, and they were Social (p27) is the perfect place. are interesting European eats, expected to eat everything. The idea was that you would toughen up if you Time dependent, swing by to the p22). The 12th Main Road in the ate protein-rich fare. It’s thought that soldiers developed a taste for non- latest museum of the city, Indian neighbourhood is dotted with bars vegetarian food which may not have been cooked at home”. Some of these Music Experience, in JP Nagar. and you can quite possibly stop longstanding establishments remain popular for their hearty biryanis and Leave before peak hours for evening every 100m for a quick swig. The other non-veg eats, including Ranganna Military Hotel (%080 43027346; drinks at Indiranagar. Humming Tree (%98866 18386, Jayanagar; mains `350), New Govind Rao Military Hotel (%98440 20118; Indiranagar) at the end of this road Majestic; mains `400), SGS Donne Biryani (%98459 58799; Chickpet; mains Indian Music Experience hosts a number of live gigs. `400), and Rajanna Military Hotel (%99020 02318; Vijayanagar; mains `300). This interactive museum has floor- to-ceiling display of more than 100 WINDING UP indigenous instruments from all Luckily, you can stay in the same AFTERNOON of the state, or to Mysore Saree over the country. There are sections neighbourhood for dinner if you are For some pre-lunch shopping, swing Udyog (p27) for stunning on for not just classical and folk music the worse for wear. Forage (p22) is by Cauvery Emporium (p27) on the fringes of Commercial Street. but also Indian rock greats such as perfect for a salad if you’ve had one MG Road to pick up well-crafted Then settle in at Koshy’s (p23) for Pentagram and Indian Ocean. snack too many, but for something souvenirs from different parts lunch amidst the babble of regular www.indianmusicexperience.org; Brigade more indulgent try Bombay patrons. Grilled pork chops and rice Millennium Ave, Opp.Wood Rose Club, Brasserie (p22).If you’re still Grilled pork chops at Koshy’s and curry combinations are good JP Nagar 7th phase; adults/children/ energetic, grab a cab to Whitefield foreigners `250/150/500 10am–6pm, for a coastal-style or even Malnad Tue–Sun meal at Oota Bangalore (p21).

Top Tip: Street eats

There’s nothing quite like street food to experience a city’s food culture. Don’t miss a visit to Thindi Beedi or Eat Street (Old Market Rd, VV Puram, 6.30–11.30pm), which stirs to life at dusk with people hollering for their orders, juice, paper dosas, and sweets. Try local Kannadiga favourites such as milk-dipping chiroti. Chiroti is a layered pastry that becomes even tastier when doused in saffron milk 20 Best Trips Bengaluru 21

4 Accommodation then this hotel is the perfect fit, with its verandahs, wood-panelled bar, Snapshot: Korean & Japanese restaurants Taj West End Heritage ``` and clutch of restaurants, including %080 66605660; www.tajhotels.com; the glasshouse-like Raj Pavilion. Given that Bengaluru is home away from home for many Korean and 25, Race Course Rd, High Grounds; d Japanese expats, there is a thriving food scene from these countries. inc breakfast from `13,999, Bathed in Grand Mercure Hotel ``` Soora Sang (%080 4130 3435), Hae Kum Gang (%98802 16262), and colonial-era elegance, Taj West End %080 45121212; www. Arirang (%080 4173 2581) are exactly where you need to go for a Korean sits in one of the greenest pockets grandmercurebangalore.com; 12th Main, kimchi or barbecue creaving. For authentic Japanese fare, visit Harima of the city. It’s centrally located, the 3rd Block, Koramangala; d incl breakfast (%080 4132 5757; Residency Rd) or Edo (%080 2211 9898; ITC Gardenia) if you’re service is impeccable, and the food from `8550 Contemporary decor, a in the mood for something indulgent. 1Q1 (% 080 49652864; www.1q1.in) is great at Blue Ginger (Vietnamese) poolside cafe, gym, spa, a deli, wi-fi serves everything from bento boxes to tuna tataki. and Masala Klub (north Indian). facilities, and cycles to hire make it a convenient option in Koramangala. Taj Vivanta Hotel ``` 5 Eating the tablet menu, which points %080 66604444; www.vivantabytaj.com; Kumarakrupa Hotel Hotel `` to the region on a map and 41/3 MG Rd; d incl breakfast from `10,000 %080 22259404; www.kstdc.co; d Fly Dining Adventure explains what ingredients have experience ``` At the end of the arterial MG Road, (AC deluxe) `2250, incl breakfast This gone into the dish. Here’s where the Taj Vivanta offers five-star luxury, KSTDC run hotel is located in the %84484 44960; www.flydining.com; you can try everything from complete with swimming pool, heart of the city. The green setting House Of Life, Near Manyata Tech Bhatkal-style brinjal curry to spa, gym, and an award-winning offers a relaxing ambience to Park, Nagawara; `14,000 for two This Dharwad . European restaurant called Graze. unwind, as do the plush interiors unusual restaurant promises an Spicy and sour Bhatkal-style brinjal curry of the well-equipped rooms. An in- ‘adventure dining’ experience ITC Windsor Hotel ``` house restaurant serving authentic (complete with an indemnity form!) %1800 1022333; www.itchotels.in; 25, Golf food (the thali is great), and entails being lifted by a crane Course Rd; d incl breakfast from `9000 If a gym and sprawling gardens about 50m above ground level on you appreciate Raj-era aesthetics, complete the experience. an open platform. There, around a table that can seat at most 24 people, a chef whips up treats from Home-style dining a set menu as you feast your eyes on views of the city. Bangalore Oota Company Pre-book three or five course meals steeped in Gowda and Mangalorean roots. Dive into fantastic regional flavours with Oota Bangalore Regional ``` the owners themselves hosting you. The yellow interiors and red door are %88802 33322; Above Windmills enticing enough, but wait till you taste the mamsa saaru (traditional mutton Craftworks; 5B Rd EPIP Zone, Basavanna curry), bassaru (greens and lentil curry), and ammani jamuns for dessert. Nagar, Whitefield; mains above `1500; %94483 02628; www.bengaluruootacompany.com; No. 5, Cambridge Cross Rd, noon–3.30pm, 7–11.30pm An ode to Cambridge Layout; `2000 and above for two; noon–3.30pm, 7–11pm the culinary heritage of Karnataka, The Restaurant–Coorg A ‘weekend only’ pop-up that serves fantastic Oota Bangalore has curated a homemade Coorgi food. Owners Priya and KC Aiyappa make sure to use spectacular menu of authentic traditional techniques and the freshest of spices. The rooftop buffet lunch cuisine from different parts of the gets booked fast. % 09845493688; 477 Krishna Temple Rd, 1st Stage, Indiranagar; state. How would a novice know mains `500–750; Fri 8–11pm & Sat/Sun noon–3.30pm & 8pm–11pm what to order? Easy. Take a look at 22 Best Trips Bengaluru 23

Salvadore’s all over —think everything Anglo-Indian ``` Fine Dining from tapas to rigatoni to duck. %080 49653492; www.salvadores.co.in; Central Mall, 5th Floor, MG Rd; mains Bombay Modern Indian ``` above `2000; 11am–11pm (weekend Brasserie at 9am) Salvadores is all %080 41471004; 2989/B, 12th Main Rd, about paying homage to the past HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar; mains `1000– with a contemporary twist. Try 2000; noon–11pm (Mon–Thu), noon– nostalgic Raj-era delicacies such midnight (Fri, Sat, Sun) Modern Indian as dak bungalow chicken curry, cuisine meets a Mediterranean vibe. railway , and Irish The food for the most part consists stew. The menu also has French of old favourites with little twists— and Mediterranean dishes. Rooftop think gunpowder potatoes and Naga breakfasts on weekends are packed. ghost pepper wings.

Sly Granny European ``` By the Peepal Gastropub ``` %080 48536712; www.slystorys.in; %99867 97575; 637, 14th Cross Rd, 3rd 3rd and 4th Floor, 618, HAL 2nd Stage, Phase, JP Nagar; mains `1700; noon–1am Indiranagar; mains above `2000; noon– Standing adjacent to a peepal tree, Dindigul Thalappakatti is most famous for biryani, available in 10 iterations 11.30pm Done up like the imagined this is the perfect place to wind lair of an eccentric granny, this place down. Highlights include multiple You get all sorts of South Indian fare Mangalore Coastal Karnataka `` feature fabulous pop-art and a gilded homegrown beers from its own here, but the biryani is what it’s Pearl door. The menu has influences from microbrewery, a good selection of justifiably famous for. %080 25578855; www.mangalorepearl. pizzas, and snacks ranging from com; #3 Coles Rd, Above KC Das Sweets, Experiencing the ‘high’ life at Fly Dining tikkas to BBQ pork ribs. There are Nagarjuna Andhra `` Frazer Town; mains `500–750; noon– lovely green views on all three floors. %080 4280 0900; www. 2.45pm & 7.30–10.30pm Dive into spicy nagarjunarestaurants.com; #195, coastal delicacies (especially the Forage European ``` Indiranagar Double Rd, Near HDFC Bank, succulent prawns) and wash it all %88840 02112; 318, 6th Main Rd, HAL Stage 2, Hoysala Nagar, Indiranagar; down with sol kadi (a refreshing pink 2nd Stage, Indiranagar; mains `750–1000; mains `500–750; noon–4pm, 7–11pm drink of kokum and curd). 12:30–3:30pm, 7:30–10:30pm Ideal for Scrumptious thali and biryani, with an afternoon salad (try the lentils humongous portions Koshy’s Multicuisine `` and red wine) or tapas (think spare %080 22213793; No. 39, St. Marks ribs spiced with orange and ginger), The Hole in Rd; mains `500–750; 9am–11pm This Breakfast `` Forage has a rather healthy menu, the Wall old-timer has hosted illustrious served amid plenty of greenery. % 080 40949490; No.4, 8th Main, guests such as Jawaharlal Nehru Koramangala 4th Block; mains `250–500; and Queen Elizabeth and remains Dindigul Tue–Fri 8am–3pm, 5.30–8.30pm & Sat/ popular. Today, uniformed waiters Biryani `` Thalappakatti Sun 8am–3pm, Mon closed After a flit around busily with steel trays %080 4229 7250; www.thalappakatti.com; night out, this place offers hangover containing favourites such as 100 Feet Rd, HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar; remedies such as juicy sausages, mutton cutlets, baked beans, pots of mains `500–750; noon–4pm, 6.30–11pm perfectly done eggs, and fresh juices. tea, and caramel custard. 24 Best Trips Bengaluru 25

Halli Mane South Indian ` since 1924. Tuck into buttery dosas, %080 65611222; www.hallimane.com; capped by frothing filter coffee. Top Tip: Under-one-roof dining 3rd Cross, Sampige Rd, Malleshwaram; mains `250–500; noon–3.30pm & CTR (Shri Sagar) South Indian ` A sprawling dining and shopping complex off MG Road,U B City (Vittal 7–11.30pm The mud-plastered walls, %080 2331 7531; 7th Cross, Margosa Mallya Rd, Lavelle Rd; 11am–12.30pm) offers plenty of choice in a single location. , and traditionally Road, Malleshwaram; mains below Fava, Farzi Café, Shiro, Rasovara and Sanchez are some of the popular dressed waiters are in sync with `250; 7.30am–12.30pm, 4–9.15pm restaurants that skirt a large open courtyard. the typical South Indian rural fare Another lazy Sunday favourite (it (think ragi mudde, kundapura is also loved by actress Deepika pathrode, and ) that is Padukone), CTR’s coffee is made for delicious ‘tiffin’ items such as Brahmin’s South Indian ` served here. A `150 coupon gets personally by owner shivage bhath, idlis, and dosas. The Coffee Bar you an elaborate lunch. Poojari. Try the benne dosa or a coffee is especially good. No.3, Ranga Rao Rd, Shankarapuram; sweet-and-savoury novelty called mains below `200; 6am–noon, 3–7pm, Sun Mavalli Tiffin chowchow bhath. Vidyarthi Bhavan South Indian ` closed The popularity of this no-frills South Indian ` Rooms (MTR) %080 26677588; #32, Gandhi Bazaar café in Old Bengaluru hinges on six %080 2222 0022; www.mavallitiffinrooms. Airlines Breakfast ` Main Rd, Basavanagudi; mains below `200; items: idli, vada, khara bhath, kesari com; #14, Lal Bagh Main Rd, Doddamavalli, %080 22273783; No 4 Madras Bank Mon—Thurs 6.30am–11.30am, 2pm–8pm bhath, coffee, and badam milk. Sudhama Nagar; mains less than `200; Rd, Off Lavelle Rd; less than `200; and Sat/Sun/govt. holidays 6.30am–2pm, 6.30–11am, 12.30–9.30pm, Mon closed 7am–10pm Early morning joggers, 2.30–8pm, Fri closed Perfect for some Sri Krishna Cafe South Indian ` This legendary eatery (particularly students bunking college, and other old-world ambience (it’s been %080 41104345; 143, KHB Colony, 1st the Lal Bagh branch) has had breakfast-seekers congregate under around since 1943), crackling dosas Fl, 60 Feet Rd, 5th Block, Koramangala; Bengaluru eating out of its hands the shade of two large banyan trees and kara bhath (semolina cooked mains `250–500; 7:30–11am, with chillies, spices, and a healthy noon–3.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm Come dose of vegetables). to this simple place for a stomach- If You Like: On-trend veg cuisine busting Tamil-style lunch of idlis, A crisp ghee dosa at MTR uthappams, , and vadas. Sante Spa A creative menu featuring the likes of quinoa and chilled avocado soup. (%080 45128828; Indiranagar; 11am–11pm) Paradigm Shift A vegan outfit focused on Thai food and multi-grain bakes. (% 96329 03999; 8, Terrace, Above GKB Opticals, 80 Feet Rd, Opp Sony Centre, Koramangala 4th Block; mains `800; 11am–11pm) A 100% vegan restaurant with plenty of organic, gluten-free, sugar-free, and low-fat items such as the brinjal-mushroom platter and jaggery muffins.( %080 41172812; www.carrots-india.com; No. 607, First Floor, 80 Feet Rd, Koramangala 6th Block; mains above `1000; noon–4pm, 7–10.30pm (weekdays) and 11.30am–11pm (weekends) Vaathsalya Millet Café The millet thali here is a wholesome option packed with healthy sprouts, millet rotis, salads, and more. (%94490 64494; 15th Cross Rd, Outer Ring Road, 277, 21st Main Rd, J P Nagar Phase 5, JP Nagar; mains `500–750; 10am–noon, 4–8pm, closed on Tue and Fri) Enerjuvate Café Studio Try zucchini noodles and vegan shakes. (%080 48148585; 82, 7th Main, Koramangala 4th Block; mains `500–750; 11.30am–10.30pm) 26 Best Trips Bengaluru 27

11.30pm; noon–1am (Fri) Try whisky- Cafes & teashops laced , Guntur chilli with vodka and mango juice, or sample Indian Coffee House Perfect for coffee served with a splash of nostalgia. nouvelle south — Take in the crumbling walls, old coffee posters, and constant chatter with think along the lines of filter kaapi some rose milk and cutlets. (%080 25587088; Coffee House, 19, Ground Floor, mousse. Church St, Brigade Gardens; 8am–8.30pm) Hatti Kaapi A perfect blend of classic Karnataka coffee packaged in Toast & Tonic Pub modern coffee shops. There are outlets all over town.www.hattikaapi.com %080 4111 6879; www.toastandtonic.com; Third Wave Roasters Responsibly sourced coffee from the estates of 14/1, Wood St, Ashok Nagar; noon–3pm; Chikkamagaluru. Outlets in Koramangala and Indiranagar. 7–11.30, 9am–3pm; 7–10.30 (Sunday) This (www.thirdwavacoffee.in) place is known for the smooth gin ‘n’ Infinitea An impressive selection of orthodox teas from the best estates. tonic-based cocktails. Try the ‘British Their food (soups, salads, smoked chicken wings) also scores highly. Raj’, which is infused with cinnamon (www.infinitea.in; 2 Shah Sultan Complex, Cunningham Rd; 11am–11pm) and pomegranate. Nibble on gin- marinated duck buns. Bengaluru’s affection for craft beers is famous Lake View Milk Bar Desserts ` 6 Drinking Bob’s Bar Pub %080 25582161;www.lakeviewmilkbar. %78990 25176; 777/I, 100 Feet Rd, HAL 7 Shopping com; 89 Kanan Building, MG Rd; mains Toit Brew Pub 2nd Stage, Doopanahalli, Indiranagar; below `200; 8.30am—12am Having %080 25201460;www.toit.in; 298, 100 11.30am–1pm The name is a Mysore Saree Udyog started its innings in 1930, this MG Feet Rd, Metro Pillar 62, Indiranagar; throwback to the city’s ‘cantonment’ www.mysoresareeudyog.com; 1st fl, 316 Road institution is still going strong 11am–11pm This quirky wood-floored days, when bar-goers would call Kamaraj Rd; 10.30am–8.30pm A great and serves all manner of sundaes, brewery has been “sending it” (a strangers at the next table ‘Bob’ to choice for top quality silk saris, waffles, and cakes (we recommend Bengaluru term for downing drinks) initiate a chat. Bengaluru-themed blouses, fabrics and men’s shirts. the Black Forest variety). since 2010. Try the Toit Weiss white graffiti, old-style rattan chairs, and beer with some grilled fish. prices that hark back to a more Levitate Idiyappams are soothing rice noodle hoppers affordable past ensure that this %080 64528190; Mezzanine Floor, 100 that go perfectly with hot curries Arbor Brewing place is always packed. The kheema Ft Boutique Restaurant, 777/I, 100 Ft Rd, Brew Pub Company dosa packs a punch. Indiranagar; 11am–9.30pm Vibrant boho %080 50144477;www.arborbrewing. apparel, kitschy knick-knacks, silver in; Magrath Rd; noon–11.30pm Seven Church Street Social Pub and costume jewellery, and other special brews and more to come % 91520 17971; www.socialoffline. lovingly crafted accessories. are the highlight of this spacious in; 46/1, Cobalt Building, Church St; brewery. The menu offers 9am–1am A co-working space by day Cauvery Arts & suggestions on the best pub fare to and a buzzing pub by night, this Craft Emporium pair with different ales. warehouse-style place checks all the %080 25581118; www.cauverycrafts.com; boxes for an evening with buddies– 49 MG Rd; 10am–8.30pm An expansive The Permit Room Pub lively ambience, inventive cocktails, collection of quality handicrafts from %90191 13388; www.thepermitroom. enjoyable eats (the calamari with across Karnataka at prices to suit all in; 16/3, Ram Kunj, Opp Garuda Mall, gunpowder goes great with beer), budgets. A great option for souvenirs Magrath Rd; mains above `1000; noon– and friendly prices. and gifts. 28 Best Trips Bengaluru 29

Detour: Mysuru

Historic Mysuru (formerly known as Mysore) is one of south India’s most enchanting cities, famed for its glittering royal heritage and magnificent monuments (visit www.kar natakatourism.org/Mysore/en for a list of notable buildings). The city is also rich in tradition, with an atmospheric bazaar district and a well-earned fame for its vegetarian delicacies. Indeed, the Maharaja of Mysore Krishnaraja Wodeyar (1884–1940) was quite the connoisseur and made his staff experiment with different cuisines in the royal kitchen of Amba Vilas.

Culinary specialities The city’s name features on several iconic dishes, not the least of which is the Mysore masala dosa, which is distinguished by a chillies-and-garlic chutney on the inside of the . You’ll find it at any number of South Indian eateries in the city, including Dasaprakash Paradise (%0821 400 8400; 104, Vivekananda Rd, Brindavan Ext, Yadavagiri; 24 hours) where you can also grab that 3am cup of filter coffee. Mysore pak is the city’s resounding answer to fudge Another unmissable treat is the sweet and rich Mysore pak. Choose from a crumbly, dry variety or a moist ghee-soaked version at Guru Sweet Mart over the world for simple living and complex poses, vegans will never go (%08212443495; Shop No 1, Devaraja Market Building, Sayyaji Rao Rd; 8am–10.30pm, hungry. Visit Dhatu Organics & Naturals (%0821 4193121; www.dhatuorganics. Wed–Mon & 8am–4pm, Tue). The owners say they are descendants of the royal com; 1st fl off, 2826, 10th Cross Rd, Vani Vilas Mohalla; 9.30am–19.30pm) for excellent cook Kakasura Madappa, who invented the sweet for Krishnaraja Wodeyar. millet dishes, including ragi dosa and sprouted green gram curry. Given that the city is a hub of Ashtanga yoga, with people flying in from all However, as far as atmospherics go, there’s nothing quite like Malgudi Cafe (%0821 425 5000; The Green Hotel, 2270 Vinoba Rd; 10am–7pm), Mysure dosa has a potato and onion filling (palya) and a lashing of garlic and chilli paste which is loosely styled on the look and feel of the classic TV drama Malgudi Days, based on the work of author RK Narayan. To explore the city’s heritage further, consider the ‘Best of Mysore’ or ‘Culinary Tour’ offered byG ully Tours (%96320 44188; www.gully.tours; Best of Mysore` `2500 per head; Culinary Tour `1750). Both walks have a food focus. Still not sated? Consider a quick highway stop at Maddur town, 67km from Mysuru, to try its claim to fame: Maddur vada, a fried snack flavoured with curry leaves, coconut, asafoetida, and onion. Try it at Maddur Tiffany (%88673 99992; Bangalore–Mysore Highway, Shivapura, Maddur; 6.30am–10.30pm).

Getting There Limited flights connect major cities (including Bengaluru thanks to recently introduced Alliance Air flights) to Mysuru airport. The city is well-connected by KSRTC buses and trains. The 144km drive from Bengaluru takes less than 3 hours. 30 Best Trips Kodagu (Coorg) 31

5 Kodava Cuisine

First things first: famed as its cuisine is, there are not very many stand-alone restaurants in Kodagu, and the handful that exist are pint-sized ones wedged in small towns between acres of coffee plantations. Fortunately, you can sample the region’s gourmet offerings in home-run estates camouflaged behind hillsides of thick coffee bushes. These places are where you get first row seats (Top) Kadumbuttu or steamed rice balls to anything from coffee growing (Across) A fresh Coorgi brew to traditional Kodava cuisine, often underlined by pork dishes, banana steamed in banana leaves bamboo shoot, kachampuli (a dark and kumme (mushroom) curry. vinegar), and the rotund sautekaayi Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy (cucumber) with its bright yellow kajaya, which are deep-fried donuts Kodagu (Coorg) stripes. A typical Kodava feast is made of jaggery and rice flour. likely to feature rice as a base. Nooputtu (string hoppers), otti Why Go? (baked pieces made out of rice Tasty tours The Kodagu (Coorg) region has a diverse topography of mountains, flour), pulao (mixed veg or non-veg rice) and kadumbuttu (rice flour Gully Tours Try the ‘Coorg Cooking coffee plantations, thick forests, paddy fields, and rivers, offering an balls), and akki roti are staples. Experience’ in a 100-year-old irresistible package of adventure, coffee, and distinctive cuisine. Coorgis enjoy hearty non-veg bungalow with a warm Kodava cuisine. Pork is usually prepared host. Or go for the four-hour Quick Facts in a dry fashion versus chicken or ‘Monasteries and Momos’ tour mutton, which are more frequently that explores the Tibetan culture Getting there & Around (approx `10 per km, min 250–300 km made with curry. However, even of Bylakuppe (p33) and includes Kodagu’s main centres are Kutta, per day). though Kodava cuisine is generally cooking and eating with a family. Kakkabbe, Kushalnagar, and celebrated for its non-veg dishes, (%96320 44188; www.gully.tours) When to Go Madikeri (the most centrally there is an abundance of seasonal Ama Plantation Trails For a located). KSRTC buses head There’s pleasant weather all produce utilised in creative ways 360-degree coffee experience, sign to Madikeri, Kushalnagar, or year round. Oct–Mar are best for as well. You can look forward to up for the Ama Plantation Trails other points closest to Kakkabe trekking and Jul–Aug for rafting. bamboo shoot (May–Aug), jungle at various accommodations in (Baghamandala, ). For mango (Apr–Jun), or jackfruit (Sep– Kodagu. Live the plantation life and Kutta, it is best to drive down. Great For Dec) as accompaniments to your enjoy a bean-to-cup coffee trip. Cabs are the most convenient meal. Look out for a snack known (%99002 12119; www. option for navigating the region as koovaleputtu—ripe jackfruit or amaplantationtrails.com) 32 Best Trips Kodagu (Coorg) 33

5 Culinary Itinerary district commissioner’s office) and a DAY 1: EVENING colonial-era church, which houses a Set off for an early dinner, as things Coorg is spread over a large expanse small quirky museum. wind down quickly in the hills. of plantation-clad hills and a bit 10am–5.30pm Sun–Fri Perhaps the most atmospheric of the plains. To explore regional option is Raintree (p36), which cuisine, Madikeri is the best base. Omkareshwar Temple is located in a lovely heritage However, even if you’re on a trekking King Lingarajendra II commissioned bungalow. trip (p37) you will find authentic this temple to be built in local dishes at your place of stay. 1820 and it remains a revered site DAY 2: MORNING in Madikeri. There is a large pond in Have breakfast at your hotel, and DAY 1: MORNING front of the main shrine. then go for a coffee plantation walk Start the morning at East End Hotel 6.30am–noon, 5–8pm near Madikeri. Gully Tours (p31) (p37) where an egg dosa and coffee runs a two-hour coffee trail and also should serve you well. Then, check Raja’s Seat provides refreshments. off some pre-lunch sightseeing. A well-maintained garden in Madikeri once used by the Kodava rulers, it DAY 2: AFTERNOON Madikeri Fort offers stunning views of the valley For a change of location and cuisine, There are good views from this below, especially at sunset head to the Tibetan settlement of hilltop fort built by Tipu Sultan in the MG Rd; `5; 5.30am—7pm Bylakuppe. Post lunch, swing by Namdroling Monastery at Bylakuppe 16th century. Within the fort’s walls Elephant Camp, about are the hexagonal palace (now the Raja’s Tomb (Gadduge) 26km from Bylakuppe. Alternatively, Dubare Elephant Camp The early 19th-century mausoleums you can limit yourself to the day-long This unique facility led by the The architecture of Omkareshwar Temple of the Kodava rulers are located just package (including lunch) at Dubare. Karnataka Forest Department is features some Islamic elements short of the Abbi Falls. Built in the near the River. A short boat Indo-Saracenic style, the domes and Bylakuppe ride takes you across to the camp, minarets tower over Madikeri. Located about 40km from Madikeri where you can help bathe and groom Dawn–dusk and 11km from Kushalnagar, elephants. With a day-long package Bylakuppe is the second-largest with JLR you can also grab a coracle DAY 1: AFTERNOON Tibetan settlement in India (after ride on the river, a guided walk Return to town for some pandi curry Dharamshala) and a fascinating through the forest, and lunch. at Folksy Food (p37), run by Mr cultural addition to the trip, %080 40554055; www.junglelodges. Lipton and his wife Leelavati. Then, with its stupas, prayer flags and com; Dubare Elephant Camp; 8am— head to Abbi Falls for a refreshing monasteries. The area’s highlight 3pm; elephant activities/day trip/ afternoon amidst nature. is the atmospheric Namdroling accommodation `885/`1499/from `4267 Monastery (www.namdroling.org; (twin sharing) Abbi Falls 7am–6pm), home to the spectacular Kodagu is home to several Golden Temple (7am–6pm), presided DAY 2: EVENING marvellous waterfalls slung over over by three 18m-high gold-plated Stay in Kushalnagar for the night large craggy mountainsides. Stand- Buddha statues. Once your spiritual and experience local food at a outs include (8km from side is sated, head over to Malaya homestay. We recommend the Madikeri and the most convenient to Restaurant (7am–9pm) for a Tibetan stylish Eco Habitat (p35), run by reach) on the River Kaveri. repast of momos and thukpa. Som and Chethana. 34 Best Trips Kodagu (Coorg) 35

4 Accommodation Village; d starting `14,000, full board This plush hilltop resort is ideal for a bit of Expert Recommendation Off Madikeri pampering after a day outdoors. The Kodagu’s culinary traditions super-luxurious wooden cottages Evolve Back RESORT ``` feature a private deck overlooking a Bangalore-based Priya Aiyappa and her husband %080 4618 4444; www.evolveback. 174-acre coffee plantation, where you KC own Bengaluru’s popular weekend-only The com; Karadigodu Post, Siddapur; d from can also take guided walks. Restaurant—Coorg (p20). `39,000, full board, incl taxes Placed in the embrace of a 300-acre spice and Palace Estate HOMESTAY `` coffee plantation, this resort boasts %08272 238446; www.palaceestate.co.in; History The Kodava, a warrior tribe ones. The thick, black pasty sauce is private pools, a beautiful spa, and Kakkabbe, Near Nalknad Palace; d from from the southwestern part of India, a product of the concentrated juice several dining options, including a `3600, incl breakfast The bright garden always ate what was available off of a type of tamarind, and acts like veg restaurant called Plantain Leaf and wooden double storey building the land. There was little foreign a preservative to chicken, mutton, and the Granary where you can try are a change from the shaded influence on the Coorgis’ eating and pork. The use of green chillies is Kodava food. plantation stays nearby. Well located habits, and thus pork (from wild more prevalent than red chillies. The for (p37). boar), jungle mangoes, jackfruit, green ones are believed to cut fat in Taj Madikeri RESORT ``` kembh leaves (edible colocasia) and the body and are said to be healthier. %082722 65900; www.tajhotels.com; Off Kushalnagar rice became the prime ingredients. None of the meats cooked use any 1st Monnangeri, Galibeedu, Post; r from Over time, of course, the cuisine has additional source of oil, except for 12,500 onwards, incl breakfast Nestled Eco Habitat HOMESTAY `` incorporated ‘new’ vegetables. their own fat. Rice and rice-based amongst 18 acres of rainforest, %94481 27245; www.ecohabitat.in ; Cooking style Kachampuli provides breads are eaten with all dishes. the Taj is perfect for the eyes and Chikbettagere Village, Guddehosur Post, the sauce base for most Coorgi Wheat is a recent addition to Coorgi the soul. Stunning views, guided Kushalnagar; d from `5400, incl breakfast dishes, especially non-vegetarian cuisine and lentils are rarely used. wilderness hikes, spa time, and more make it a perfect antidote to the city. Kachampuli is a souring agent derived from the Malabar tamarind fruit If You Like: Pork Mayura Valley View hotel `` %08272 228387; www.kstdc.co; near The following restaurants dish up Raja’s Seat, Madikeri; d AC Deluxe from authentic versions of the region’s `3599 Mayura Valley View has a most famous pork dishes. welcoming vibe and spectacular • Abeo’s Kitchen (Main Rd, opp. mountain views. The central Private Bus Stand) location, comfortable furnishings • Coorg Cuisine (opp. Head Post and in-house restaurant (noon– Office, Main Rd) 10.30pm; mains less than `500) serving • Coorg Foodlands local dishes make it a top choice. (Nethravathi Complex, opp. Private Bus Stand) Off Kakkabe • New Churchside (opp. St Michael’s Church, General Tamara RESORT ``` Thimayya Circle, Tollgate) %088 84000040; www.thetamara.com, • Surabhi (Main Rd, opp. Kabinakkad Estate, Napoklu Nad, Yavakapadi Capitol Bar) 36 Best Trips Kodagu (Coorg) 37

Som and Chethana’s Eco Habitat breakfast and dinner Experience an has two cottages with personal exclusive stay in the old Coorgi style If You Like: Nature trails splash pools. Each meal is better house, after crossing a bright green than the last, and Chethana’s patch of paddy fields. It’s perfect trek The wavy ridge of lemongrass tea is a revelation. for those trekking to the Brahmagiri the Brahmagiri range is never far peak (base camp is just 2km). from sight in Kodagu. The trail—which Bel Home PLANTATION STAY `` passes through deciduous forests, %0876 2061135; www.bellhome.co.in; 5 Eating copses and grasslands—gives Bellarimotte Estate, Madapura Post; d from trekkers an opportunity to explore the `4200, incl breakfast Spend time in the Most people eat where they stay, but area’s rich biodiversity. The base of the verandah of the 1928-built cottages Madikeri has some good eateries. trek is the stepped 52m Iruppu Falls, or relax in the sit-out of the wooden which spans the Karnataka and cabins. Near coffee plantations and Tiger Tiger COORGI `` border. Note that the trek is strenuous Kotta Betta (third-highest peak in %99004 92800; Raja Seat Rd; 12.20–9pm with an ascent time of 8–9 hours. Kodagu), Bel Home is run by third- Wed closed; mains `500–750 Close to Forest entry `200 per head plus additional generation planters Vijay and his Tiger’s Seat, this family-friendly charges for the guard; permission: wife Ramola—they are great hosts restaurant is known for pandi curry. %08274–246331; Office of the Range Forest You can spot parakeets on a birding tour and very knowledgeable. Try the mango curry in the summer. Officer, Srimangala; 10.30am–5.30pm Tadiandamol trek The third-highest peak of Karnataka (1744m) Off Kutta Raintree Multicuisine `` overlooks deep valleys of lush shola forests and misty mountain ranges. %08272220301; 13/41, Pension Lane, Other than trekking (2–4 hours), you can get a glimpse of Kodagu’s royal The Jade HOMESTAY `` Behind Town Hall; 10.30am–3pm & 7–10pm heritage at the 18th-century Nalknad Palace at the base camp. %08274 244396; www.thejadecoorg. Mon–Fri, 11.30am–10pm Sat & Sun; mains Malalli Falls Located 47km from Kushalnagar, the beautiful 61m Mallalli com; Manchalli, Kutta; d from `3500, incl `500–750 An upscale dining option Falls lie at the base of the verdant Hills. There are several set in a bungalow serving local Coorg walking trails here, although you can drive up too. The falls are at their Steam-cooked semolina cakes known as rava and other Indian fare. The coconut best during the rainy season. idli, served with sambar and coconut chutney payasam is a must-try. Kotte Betta The third-highest peak in Kodagu, Kotte Betta (1645m) is 15km from Madikeri and a popular hiking destination with its coffee plantations, forests, and gurgling streams. It’s suitable for beginners too.

Taste of Coorg COORGI ` and Coorgi-style chicken fry stand %9449255969; 23–39, CMC Building, out in this old go-to. Madikeri–Virajpet Rd, Stuart Hill; 10am– 8pm; mains less than `500 Unfussy Folksy Food COORGI ` interiors but excellent Coorgi food. %94487 11459; 1st fl, RT Complex, Temple Rd, Chickpet; 1–3.30pm Mon–Sat; East End Hotel COORGI ` mains less than `500 While pork and %082722 29996; Behind East End chicken curry are reliable go-tos, Petrol Pump, General Thimayya Rd; 7.30– also try the koot curry (vegetables 10.30am, 12.45–3.30pm,4.30–10pm; in a toor ). They do a good veg mains less than `500 The mutton balls thali as well. 38 Best Trips Mangaluru & Udupi 39

5 Coastal Cuisine

The coastal region of Karnataka boasts an eclectic cuisine that bears the greatest influences from four communities—Bunt, Goud Saraswat, Catholic, and Konkani Muslim. The kitchens of these communities draw more or less from the same ingredients, but vary in their interpretations, making for an exciting mix of flavours. There are two preparations that, more than others, define the culinary identity of the region: the Mangalorean ghee roast (think slow- cooked piquant masalas coating fresh seafood or chicken), and the dosa, which though ubiquitous now in south India, originated in Udupi. Mangaluru & Udupi Yet, do not overlook the unassuming neer dosa (a light crepe made (Top) A Mangalorean thali featuring fried from rice batter) that is perfect for whole fish (Across) Chicken ghee roast Why Go? mopping up not just your crab ghee Sitting on the Arabian Sea, Mangaluru (formerly Mangalore) keeps roast but also the unctuous kozhi gussi (a chicken curry flavoured Eat at a local home many a foodie hooked with its sensational, spicy seafood. Just an with coconut and tamarind) or the hour or so inland, temple town Udupi is famed for its veg cuisine. humble puli kodel (a Mangalorean For an authentic Mangalorean okra delicacy made with coconut Christian meal, visit Maya and Quick Facts masala). For something a little Oswald in their home in Kadri. lighter, there is Udupi’s comforting After downing a welcome drink, Getting There & Around of Bengaluru. Overnight journeys tomato rasam and mude (cylindrical help Maya in the kitchen to clean Mangaluru airport is 9km from by private and KSRTC buses take idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves). As clams, prepare neer dosa and Mangaluru city and 53km from about 9–10 hours. for teatime hunger pangs, there are chicken curry. Work done, proceed delicacies such as Mangalore buns to partake of a delicious four- Udupi. Both towns are well- When to Go (fluffy pooris made from fermented course meal with them, capped connected by train to most South September—April are the coolest flour and bananas), churmuri of course by a filter coffee—the Indian cities; there are three trains months and best for the beaches. (puffed rice mixed with vegetables, immersive experience takes three from Bengaluru, two of which peanuts, coconut oil, lemon, and to four hours so make sure you’ve Great For run daily. Travelling by road from sometimes grated raw mango), and set aside enough time. Bengaluru is fairly convenient semige rasayana (rice noodle cakes (%84484 49122; book via www. too. Mangaluru lies 353km west with coconut milk and jaggery). authenticook.com; `1500 per head) 40 Best Trips Mangaluru & Udupi 41

5 Culinary Itinerary temple boasts a stunning backdrop. The temple stands at the site of a Detour: Udupi beach drive Tuluva-Mangalorean cuisine is the fort built by the 16th-century Rani umbrella term covering the varied Abbakka Devi, a freedom fighter Several traditional fishing villages dot the coastal stretch from Udupi to delights of this region where Tulu who resisted Portuguese rule. She is Murudeshwar (102km). Mattu Beach, 8.5km south from Udupi is a quiet is a widely spoken language. Here immortalised in a bronze statue on spot away from tourists, unlike the very popular Beach (6km; think ingredients such as , rice, horseback at the roundabout on the camel rides, food stalls, parasailing). Kaup/Kapu Beach (15km) is rather curry leaves, and seafood are taken road to Beach. tourist-savvy with a few shops, but the towering lighthouse (`10; 4–6pm; to great heights. 6am–1pm, 3–8pm monsoons closed) warrants a stop. Further along the highway, the drive around Beach (53km) is especially scenic, the road flanked Day 1: morning Beaches near Mangaluru by the beach and the Souparnika River. You can also stop for a meal at the Start with a robust breakfast of A breezy stretch of beaches is Turtle Bay Resort (www.turtlebayeco.com). filter coffee and avalakki upma (rice one of Mangaluru’s highlights, flakes covered with a mix of dry particularly the golden , poha and boondi, and tempered 12km south of the city. Other Day 1: afternoon layered concoction of milk, coffee, with coconut oil, curry leaves, and options include (10km), Work up an appetite for a traditional and foam. Else grab some crab ghee dry red chillies) at Anmol Family which has some watersports Mangalorean lunch at Foodlands roast or a fish thali atMachali (p44). Restaurant (p44); they do a yummy facilities (jet skis, parasailing, (p44), which specialises in Bunt chiku sheera too. Then get straight banana boats) from October to food. Try the squid ghee roast with Day 2: Morning to the temples and beaches in and February and Suratkal (14km), neer dosa. Post-lunch, either go Arrive at Udupi for a visit to the around the city. home to the landmark NITK temple-hopping or head to the atmospheric Sri Krishna Matha, lighthouse (adults/children/foreigners/ unique Ashram Retreat chased up with an authentic Udupi Someshwara Temple camera/video `10/3/25/20/25; (%96631 41146; www.surfingindia.net) in dosa at Woodlands (p45) a few Located in Ullal, 9km off Mangaluru 4–5.30pm; off limits in monsoons). Mulki to ride the waves and consume steps away. Keep the rest of the at the confluence of the Netravati cleansing vegetarian food. morning for the Coin Museum. River and the Arabian Sea, this Shiva Parasailing off Mangaluru’s temples Sri Krishna Matha A multitude of temples dot This 13th-century Krishna temple is a Mangaluru, and though most are not major draw in Udupi, with thousands particularly grand in architecture, queuing up to get a glimpse of the many are very well known amongst idol that can be seen through a metal the religiously inclined. Of note are perforation. Built by the Vaishnavite the 9th-century Mangala Devi Temple saint Shri Madhwacharya, the temple (6am–1pm, 4–8.30pm), the massive is usually crammed with devotees. Kadri Manjunatheswara (5am–1pm, Eight mutts (monasteries) surround 4–8pm), and the elaborate Kudroli the temple. Gokarnanatha (6am–2pm, 4.30–9pm). Parking `10; 5am–9.30pm

Day 1: Evening Coin Museum For an early meal, Hotel Karthik The evolution of Indian coins right (p44) is a quick stop for tuppa (ghee) from their inception to the latest dosa and a ‘reverse’ filter coffee, a launch can be traced in in the old 42 Best Trips Mangaluru & Udupi 43

lunch option, and not far from the 4 Shetty Lunch Accommodation Mangalorean `` excellent Museum of Anatomy and Home Pathology in . Do pop into The Ocean Pearl Hotel ``` %9945618222; Don Bosco Hall Cross Hotel Diana (p43) nearby for a round %0824 2413800; www.theoceanpearl.in; Rd, , Mangaluru; mains of ‘gadbad’ ice-cream for dessert. Navabharath Circle, Kodialbail, Mangaluru; `500–750; 11.30am–3.30pm, 6.30–11pm d from `7000 Black and white A pitstop for seafood biryani and Museum of Anatomy photographs of the coastal region other non-veg fare. The Kundapura and Pathology hang on the walls throughout the branch (%9152603091; Kundapura, This museum is an excellent hotel. The rooms are spacious and near New City bus stand, Udupi) repository of hundreds of specimens well lit and bathrooms are clean. takes credit for the ghee roast style of human and animal anatomy and of cooking. can keep you busy for hours. Goldfinch Hotel ``` Manipal; entry adults/children `10/5; %0824 4245678; www.goldfinchhotels. Maharaja Mangalorean ` 8am—6pm Mon—Sat, 24 hours on Sun com; Bunts Hostel Rd, Mangaluru; d from Restaurant `5249 Pleasant interiors with modern %1st Floor, Trade Centre, Near Jyothi Day 2: Evening facilities and great service. Talkies, Bunts Hostel Rd, Mangaluru; mains Reserve the evening for a drive `250—500; 11.30am—11pm An old- along the coast back to Mangaluru Blue Matsya Self-catering style family lunch home serving the beach house ``` for a meal at Shetty Lunch Home most scrumptupus -topped % The gloriously mixed-up gadbad ice cream (p43). Its Kundapura branch, 98207 70427; www.bluematsya.com; chicken ghee roast, among many incidentally, is believed to be the Lighthouse Rd, Kaup Beach; d from `5000 other non-veg preparations. home of Corporation Bank founder, originator of the ghee roast, which (minimum 2 nights) This place is just A fish-and-rice meal served on a banana leaf Khan Bahadur Haji Abdullah gets its unctuous yet piquant taste off the Lighthouse at Kaup Beach Haji Kasim Saheb Bahadur. Mr from a paste of Bydagi chillies near Udupi. The white-walled home, Krishnayya is an enthusiastic guide. and other spices slow-cooked for dotted with blue windows, offers %0820 2530955; PB 15, Corporation Bank as long as six hours in ghee. The lovely sea views from the balconies. Building; 10am–5pm mixture is particularly delicious with seafood and chicken but you Hotel Diana Hotel & Restaurant ` Day 2: Afternoon will also find vegetarian versions %72101 33600; Near Big Bazar, Jodukatte, With its creative decor, featuring the likes of mushrooms Ajjarjad, Udupi; d from `1000 Diana is famous Thaamboolam (p45) is a convenient and cottage cheese. in Udupi for its ‘gadbad’ ice cream, but it also has spacious and clean rooms that rank as among the best in town. Snapshot:Gadbad ice cream 5 Eating The term ‘gadbad’ means ‘something wrong’, but there is something very right about the mix of ice cream flavours, jelly, and nuts in this home- Sannadige Mangalorean `` grown sundae, believed to have originated in Hotel Diana (p43). The story %8244245678; , Mangaluru; goes that the hotel’s owner threw together whatever was on hand to serve mains `750–1000; noon–3.30pm, 6.30– an ice-cream-hungry bunch of customers, and they liked it so much they 11pm The Mangaluru-style pomfret, returned to ask for the concoction again. Thus ‘gadbad’ was promoted to a prawns, and mud crabs will delight bonafide dish, and now features on several menus in the region. seafood lovers. 44 Best Trips Mangaluru & Udupi 45

Anmol Family Pabbas Desserts ` Veg ` Restaurant %0824 245 7925; Sree Krishna Prasad, %0824 222 2302; Near Baliga Super Lal Bagh, Mangaluru; mains less than Market, Kavoor Rd, -Kapikad, `200; 10am–9pm Cold treats galore, Mangaluru; mains less than `200; 7am– including Mangaluru’s version of 10.15pm A great breakfast option. Try Udupi’s ‘gadbad’ ice cream (p42). the Mangalore buns. Woodlands Udupi ` Hotel Karthik Veg ` %0820 2522807; Dr UR Rao Complex, %0824 2458161; Opp Uruva Police Near Sri Krishna Matha, Thenkapet, Udupi; Station, Kottara, Mangaluru; mains less mains below `200; 8.30am–3.30pm, than `200; 7am–8pm Best known 5.30–10.30pm An old-timer serving for its three-layered ‘reverse filter the beloved Udupi dosa and a range coffee’ (milk, coffee, foam) and of other dishes. The dingy basement veg dishes. restaurant gets packed lunchtime.

Goli/Mangalore bajji is a fried snack flavoured Rd, Hampankatta, Mangaluru; mains less If You Like: Wine & whisky with ginger and coconut than `500; 11am–10pm Try coastal Christian dishes such as pork bafat. Nandi Hills near Bengaluru (p14) encompasses one of India’s premier Thaamboolam Indian `` wine-growing regions, with some 18 wineries. Also near Bengaluru is %0820 4296418; Opp Kalpana Gajalee seafood `` India’s first single-malt whisky distillery, which allows tastings. Theatre, Diana Circle, Comfort Towers, %0824 2221900; Circuit House Grover Wineries At an altitude of at 920m this winery produces quality Kinnimulki, Udupi; mains `250–500; Compound, Opp Kadri Police Station, Kadri, white and red varietals. Tours include tastings of five wines in the cellar 10.30am–3.30pm, 6.30–11.30pm The Mangaluru; seafood from `230; 11am–11pm rooms accompanied by cheese and crackers, followed by lunch. It’s attractive ethnic décor (a bullock The seafood here is more coastal located on the approach to Nandi Hills, around 40km north of Bengaluru. cart, indigenous wall art, and more) Maharashtrian than Mangalorian, (%080 27622826; www.groverzampa.in; 1.5 hr tour Mon–Fri `850, Sat & Sun `1000) provides a pleasant setting for multi- but who cares when the crab masala Bangalore Soma Vineyards Located in the shadow of the Makalidurga Hills cuisine Indian fare. It’s a good bet if is so good? It also gets points for its (Maakli) the lakeside winery offers a lush sprawl of grape plantations, along you want to have North Indian food. location in an old Portuguese villa with fruit trees including coconut palm, custard apple, and mango. A guided with al fresco dining. walk, wine-making and an evening of BBQ make for great weekend revelry. Foodlands Multicuisine ` (%9845428071; Raju Estate, Gundamgere Village, Sonnenahalli; `2500 per person, incl %0824 428 1528; MG Rd; mains less than Machali Seafood ` tour, lunch & BBQ) `500; 11am–3.30pm & 6.30–11.30pm This %077959 57575; Behind Ocean Pearl, Heritage Grape Winery If you’re short on time, stop here on the way to place does an excellent Mangalorean Sharada Vidhyalaya Rd, Kodailbail, Mysuru. Get a 45-minute tour of the vineyards and bottling plant; an in- thali (fish, chicken, veg). The Mangaluru; mains less than `500; house restaurant offers continental and north Indian fare.( %080 26602667; chicken is yum. 11.30am–3.30pm, 7–10pm Expect 115/86, Gangedoddi Village, Chekkere Post, Channapatana; `150 per person) the freshest seafood, ranging Amrut Established in 1948, Amrut, India’s first producer of single malt William from prawn biryani, to fish whisky, offers free distillery tours run by knowledgeable guides. You Multicuisine ` Pereira Hotel egg ghee roast, to satisfying thalis. can also have tastings of world-class single malts and blends. It’s 20km %0824 2425430, 948015811; Opp It’s often crowded but well worth outside Bengaluru on the road to Mysuru; pre-bookings are essential. University College, Ganapathi High School the wait. (%080 23100402; www.amrutdistilleries.com; Mysuru Rd) 46 Best Trips Chikkamagaluru & Around 47

5 Malnad Cuisine

Wholesome and fresh, Malnad cuisine draws from the seasonal produce of the hilly regions— including bamboo shoots, colocasia leaves, turmeric leaves, and raw jackfruit. It’s pretty healthy too, with plenty of steamed rather than fried preparations on the menu. While there are culinary variations between northern and southern Malenadu—such as ragi having precedence over rice in Hassan, say—a typical Malnad feast will feature dishes such as kaalu kadubu (dumplings tossed with spicy fenugreek leaves and beans), chattituttu (a rice-based snack featuring chillies, coconut, and Chikkamagaluru & Around onions), votthushaavige uppittu (rice (Top) Akki roti is a soft rice-flour flatbread vermicelli cooked with veggies and (Across) Fresh jackfruit, a summer favourite spices), fresh bamboo shoot curry, Why Go? akki roti and thumbuli (a spiced Snapshot: With its emerald coffee plantations and cool climes, Chikkamagaluru -based side dish). Regional dosa varieties include Chigli chutney invites visitors to trek up its hills, raft down gushing waters, and halasina dosa with jackfruit as a sample Malenadu (literally ‘land of the hills’) or Malnad cuisine. filling and gangalada dosas, which The Malenadu region specializes are prepared in earthen pots, fried in a fiery and tangy chutney made Quick Facts in ghee, and often served with from kempu iruve or red fire ants. mutton curry. Another tasty combo The ants are harvested from Getting There and Chikkamagaluru at regular is kozhi saar—a coconutty chicken their nests early in the morning, Car: Chikkamagaluru is about intervals. Opt for an overnight bus curry paired with or wrapped in a leaf, and brought to 245km from Bangalore on NH75. It to optimise time. dumplings. kitchens to grind and roast with When you’re in the region, do salt, chili, garlic, and onions. The takes about 5 hours to reach, but When to Go try to sample pure veg Havyaka protein-rich chutney is eaten with may take up to an hour longer if you The weather from September to cuisine. Dishes include deev halasu rice and believed to have medicinal stay at a coffee plantation on the March is coolest. (breadfruit and buttermilk curry) properties for ailments such as outskirts of town. and haagilkaayi kaayirasa (bitter cough and flu. You will often find Great For Bus: A host of private and KSRTC gourd in sweet sauce). You can try it at hotels and homestays in

buses run between Bengaluru it at Gundi Mane (p51), a lovely the region, including Flameback homestay near . Lodges (p50) in Chikkamagaluru. 48 Best Trips Chikkamagaluru & Around 49

5 Culinary Itinerary most talked about spots in Chikkamagaluru, allowing you to To experience Malnad cuisine, and take in Sheethalagiri, a 1000-year- feast your eyes on nature, here’s an old Mallikarjuna temple, Baba itinerary taking in Chikkamagaluru, Budangiri hill, named after , and Jog Falls. the saint who planted the first coffee beans in India here, and Day 1: Chikkamagaluru Mullayangiri, the highest peak Base yourself at a plantation or (1930m) in the state. homestay (p50) for warm hospitality and local food. Some, such as The Ballalarayana Durga Serai, offer bean-to-cup coffee The 12th-century Ballalarayana trails, while others serve excellent Fort, built by the Hoysala king regional cuisine, like Balur Estate Veera Balala I, is situated on the and Woodways. While you’re here high reaches of Bettabalige in cover the Big Mountain Loop and Chikkamagaluru (459m). While The first coffee bush was planted at Hebbe Falls. little remains of the structure, it Getting here is an adventurous 13km Baba Budangiri hill offers stunning views of the off-road drive. Rickety jeeps are The Big Mountain Loop rolling hills below and makes for a available on hire for a round trip. The Dakshinamnaya Sri Sharada The mountain loop is a good great trek. actual falls are reached after a short Peetham (%082 65250123; www. way to cover some of the www.indiahikes.com walk, including crossing a shallow sringerisharadapeetham.org; 6am–2pm, stream at two points. It’s worth it 4–9pm; meals 12.15pm–2.30pm, 7.15– when you see a 167m drop from 8.30pm) at Sringeri, where you can Detour: Jog Falls below the gushing water. partake of a free community meal Entry/parking `50/`10; 8am–4pm of sambar-rice with fresh and tasty Located 138km north of Agumbe, Jog Falls is known for the namesake Malnad-style veggies. waterfalls that plunge down from a height of 253m, making them one of Day 2: agumbe the highest waterfalls of Asia. Check in here at Gundi Mane (p51), one With its tropical evergreen of the best homestays in the region and where you can enjoy excellent rainforest, waterfalls, and stunning If You Like: Rafting Havyaka fare, which is tough to find in restaurants. biodiversity, hilly Agumbe (113km) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides providing a pretty It is also known as the king cobra backdrop to Chikkamagaluru, capital of India. Learn more about the also provides snakes at the Kalinga Centre for rafting opportunities. The 3–4km Rainforest Ecology (%94808 77670; circuit covering three rapids takes www.kalingacre.in). About 7km from about an hour. Ace Paddlers are a Agumbe village, it offers tented well-known provider of rafting trips accommodation. Alternatively, stay and offer packages that include at Dodda Mane (p51), or just stop camping, food, and even treks. by for a wholesome homemade (%94809 87672; www.acepaddlers.com; lunch. A further detour of 28km from `1200 per person; all year round) Agumbe will take you to the ancient 50 Best Trips Chikkamagaluru & Around 51

4 Accommodation Flameback Lodges rESORT ``` Gundi Mane HOMESTAY ` Dodda Mane Homestay ` %82632 15170; www.flameback.in; Near %09900956760; www.gundimane.com; %08181 233075; Jenni Akka, Agumbe; ‘pay Trivik Hotels & Devalankere, ; d incl full board Gundimane Aralgodu; 1 night, 2 days what you like’ policy Visit Kasturi Akka’s RESORT ``` Resorts from `12,000 Private villas, suites packages `3200 per person Situated homestay for an overnight stay or %9880552711, 9148971583; www. and cottages with sunning decks, between a 100-acre plantation of just for lunch—fresh, simple, and trivikhotels.com, Channagondanahalli, Jacuzzis, and a pool distinguish the areca trees, coffee, pepper, and fruits served on a banana leaf. The claim Elunoorkhan Rd, Mullayangiri; full board boutique resort with views of a lake, (19km from Jog Falls), the abode of to fame of this century-old house is from `24,000 Located amid 38 waterfall, and paddy fields. The food Mrs Chandrakala and Mr Ganpathi that two episodes of Malgudi Days acres of coffee plantations near isn’t ‘fancy’ but it’s certainly yummy. Rao serves authentic Havyaka food. were shot here in 1985. Mullayangiri, this family-friendly resort features massive suites Taj Gateway Heritage ``` with Jacuzzis, gorgeous hill views, %1800111825; www.tajhotels.com; Jyoti If You Like: Northern Karnataka cuisines a kids’ play area, and a good Nagar Post; d from `8500, incl breakfast selection of local cuisine and Nested on the lush Sahyadri slopes, Karnataka’s beaches, hills, and other fare. this hotel offers plush rooms, indoor major cities get all the kudos, but and outdoor games, a swimming there are many other destinations The Serai PLANTATION RESORT ``` pool, and great in-house dining. here—particularly in the north— %8262 224903; www.theserai.in; K.M that are not only of historical Road, Mugthihalli Post, Chikkamagaluru; Woodways Homestay ``` interest, but also offer gastronomic r incl full board from `19,000 There’s %96630 71775; www.woodwayhomestay. pleasures. Here are some: every luxury here, with all the villas com; Jakkanhalli Post, Chikkamagaluru; d Ballari (formerly Bellary) Just boasting a jacuzzi or pool. They incl full board from `8000 Sushmita 60km from Hampi, Ballari has arrange visits to the plantations, and Shreedev have run the a spectacular rockscape and where you can learn about coffee tastefully furnished Woodways for a 16th-century hilltop fort. making and have a taste. over 10 years. They are extremely Culinary specialities include knowledgeable about the region, batti chutney (meatballs A bowl of rich kunda mithai The Serai primarily features natural materials passionate about conservation and made from goat innards such as wood in its decor serve up delicious Malnad food. with hand-pounded red chillies and garlic) and ‘cycle khova’—a milk-based sweet dispensed by travelling vendors. Belgaum (Belagavi) With sightseeing options in the form of the 13th- century Belgaum Fort, the Military Mahadev Temple, and the Falls, Belgaum is also famous for its sweets. Try the kunda (made of sugar, milk, and curd) and mandige (a crepe with a sugar, ghee, and khova filling). Vijaypura (Bijapur) The Adil Shah Dynasty left an architectural imprint here in the form of Gol Gumbaz, Ibrahim Rauza Tomb, and the Jama Masjid. Tuck into fragrant biryanis, shenga (groundnut) chutney, and kardantu (a chewy ‘fried gum’ dotted with nuts). Kalaburagi (Gulbarga) Known as a ‘Sufi city’ and was once under Aurangzeb’s rule. It is best known for the Khwaja Banda Nawaz Dargah, an important Muslim pilgrimage site and its 14th-century Jama Masjid. You will find plenty of Mughlai-style cuisine here, including pathar gosht (stone- cooked meat) and interesting sweets such as paan mithai. 52 index Index 53

Kalaburagi, 51 O Index Kodagu (Coorg), 30–37 Omkareshwar Temple, 32 accommodation, 35–36 culinary itinerary, 32–33 R eating, 36–37 A D rafting, 49 Abbi Falls, 32 darshinis, 15 getting there & around, 30 Raja’s Seat, 32 adventure dining, 12, 22 Dubare Elephant Camp, 33 Kodagu cuisine, 6, 11, 31, 34 Raja’s Tomb (Gadduge), 32 Agumbe, 49 Kotte Betta, 37 Kushalnagar, 30, 33, 35–36 E Kutta, 30, 36 S B eating. see individual locations Someshwara Temple, 40 Ballalarayana Fort, 48 L cuisine, 5, see Ballari, 51 F Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens, 16 also Bengaluru and Mysuru Bangalore Palace, 17 food festivals, 9 Sri Krishna Matha, 41 Belgaum, 51 M sweets, 13 Bengaluru, 14–27 G Maddur, 29 accommodation, 20–21 Government Museum & Madikeri, 30, 32–33, 35, 36–37 T culinary itinerary, 16–19 Venkatappa Art Gallery, 17 Madikeri Fort, 32 Tadiandamol trek, 37 drinking, 26–27 Malalli Falls, 37 temple food, 10 eating, 15, 19, 21–26 H Malnad cuisine, 6–7, 47 Thindi Beedi, 19 getting there Havyaka cuisine, 47, 51 Mangaluru, 38–46 tours & around, 14 Hebbe Falls, 48–49 accommodation, 43 Bengaluru food walks, 15 shopping, 18–19, 27 history, 4–5 culinary itinerary, 40–42 Kodagu food and coffee Big Mountain Loop, 48 Home-style dining eating, 39, 43–45 tours, 31 Brahmagiri trek, 37 in Bengaluru, 20 getting there Chikkamaguluru plantation Bylakuppe, 33 in Mangaluru, 39 & around, 38 experiences, 8 microbreweries, 11, 26 C I military hotels, 15, 18 U Chikkamagaluru, 46–51 iftaar, 12 Museum of Anatomy and Udupi, 5, 41, see also Mangaluru accommodation, 50–51 Indian Music Experience, Pathology, 42 culinary itinerary, 48–49 Iruppu Falls, 37 Mysuru, 28–29 V eating 47 vegan cuisine, 24 getting there, 46 J N Vijaypura, 51 coastal cuisine, 5, 9–10 , 39 Jog Falls, 48 Nalknad Palace, 37 coffee culture, 8, 26 National Gallery of W Coin Museum, 41–42 K Modern Art, 16 whiskey tasting, 45 Cubbon Park, 16 Kakkabbe, 30, 35 North Karnataka cuisine, 5, 51 wineries, 11, 45 54 Acknowledgements Acknowledgements 55

PICTURE CREDITS Shutterstock.com: 19B; Aryan This guide has been LONELY PLANET INDIA TEAM Placement key: T =TOP, TC=TOP Guptaa 42T; barbajones 34B; researched and authored by: Commissioning Editor Asavari Singh CENTRE, TR=TOP RIGHT, TL=TOP bonga1965 8B; Claudine Van Design Manager Kavita Saha Massenhove 32B; d_odin 10B; LEFT, C=CENTRE, CR=CENTRE A bonafide Picture Research Manager DisobeyArt 27T; DivyaN 33T; Elena RIGHT, CL=CENTRE LEFT, vagabond, Shweta Andrews Elisseeva 11T; GreenTree 4B\ 44T\ B=BOTTOM, BC=BOTTOM CENTRE, Supriya Sehgal Layout Designer Ankur Guha BR=BOTTOM RIGHT, BL=BOTTOM 47T; highviews 21B; Jiang Zhongyan has traversed the LEFT. 31T; ktasimar 5T; LILLIAN_GZ 37T; length and breadth Maksim Toome 18B; Murgermari of the country for Although we have done our best to 40B; NARONGKAN WANCHAUY over 15 years. Karantaka is especially Although the authors and credit all the copyright holders of 46T; Nopkamon Tanayakorn 43B; close to her heart as she kicked off Lonely Planet have taken all photographs, we apologise for any PI 29T; Rajesh Narayanan 25B; her solo wanderings discovering reasonable care in preparing unintentional omissions. If informed SAM THOMAS A 7B\ 13B; Sandhya different corners of the state and this book, we make no of any further acknowledgements we Hariharan 2; Santhosh Varghese wrote her first travel book about warranty about the accuracy will definitely include them in future 12B; StockImageFactory.com 13T\ weekend getaways from the capital. or completeness of its content editions of the book. 36B; Umesh Veerappa Suvarna Even a decade later, she finds it one and, to the maximum extent Lonely Planet would like to thank 39T; vm2002 6B\ 10T\ 11B\ 15T\ of the most inspiring destinations permitted, disclaim all liability the following photographers, 26B\ 28B; Wandering pickle 38T. in India. arising from its use. organizations and picture libraries The Serai: 50B. This edition includes extracts from for permission to reproduce their Wikipedia: Creative Commons Lonely Planet India (2017) photographs: Attribution-Share Alike This book has been sponsored by Dindigul Thalappakatti: 23T. 4.0 International license/ DoT, and Fly Dining: 12T, 22B. Sanketghatnatti1274 51B; Public KSTDC. Domain 16B. Getty Images: Manjunath Kiran/ Special thanks to TK Anil Kumar, AFP 14T; Mint/ Contributor 9T. COVER IMAGES: FRONT – Secretary, Karnataka Tourism, and vm2002/ Shutterstock.com; BACK Kumar Pushkar, MD, KSTDC. Karnataka Tourism Board: 17B, – asmiphotoshop/ Shutterstock. 48B, 49T. com – LEFT; SAM THOMAS A/ Nithya Anantham: 30T. Shutterstock.com – CENTRE; Indian Food Images/ Shutterstock.com – RIGHT. 56 Acknowledgements

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited 1st edition – December 2019 © Lonely Planet Dec 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 Printed in India All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.