CHANEL’S TOKYO TOWER/2 CALVIN INKS HILARY SWANK/3 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 24, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear Ralph’s World NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren is branching out. After he bought back the Lauren label, sales soared — thanks to an upgrade in fabrics and styling. Now the designer wants to expand the label by licensing products from accessories to fragrance. For fall, he dug deep into his archives and pulled out some of his best pieces — cozy cable knits, shrunken jackets and plenty of tweeds and herringbones. Here, a cotton corduroy trench, and a silk and cashmere shell and skirt. For more on the collection, see pages 6 and 7.
Fossil Goes High-End: Buys Michele Watches And Digs a New Niche By Ross Tucker NEW YORK — Fossil wants a little of the luxury action. The $780 million watch behemoth on Tuesday said it would acquire Tempus International Corp., which operates under the Michele Watches moniker, for $50 million in cash. The move gives Fossil immediate entree into the booming market for high- end fashion watches, as well as access to the upscale jewelers channel. For Miami-based Michele Watches, the company will be able to capitalize on its rapid growth by exploiting Fossil’s See Fossil, Page11 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Barneys Profits Up 13.7% GENERAL NEW YORK — Improved full-price selling boosted for both the fourth quarter and fiscal year,” he Fossil Inc. is acquiring the maker of Michele Watches, giving it entree to the Barneys New York’s fourth-quarter results. added. 1 lucrative high-end fashion watch market. The high-end retailer on Tuesday posted double- The chairman said significant remodeling and On track to hit $400 million at wholesale in its first year, Lauren by Ralph digit gains in income and sales for expansion projects will be com- 6 Lauren seeks to expand its scope with new and upgraded licensed products. the three months ended Jan. 31, pleted this year at its Madison with income up 13.7 percent to Avenue and Beverly Hills flag- It’s been a tumultuous time for Kohl’s, but after a slew of executive and $6.3 million, or 44 cents a diluted ships, while its contemporary co- 2 merchandise changes, observers are again bullish on the retailer’s future. share, from $5.6 million, or 40 op business expansion in exist- Stephen Burrows, one of the original architects of Seventies style, is cents, a year ago, while sales ing and new stores is broadening 11 launching a line of separates on the Home Shopping Network on April 6. gained 10.9 percent to $117.5 mil- the retailer’s reach as it enters lion from $106 million. new markets. MARKETING: Retail anthropologist Paco Underhill dissects the dynamics Howard Socol, chairman, “The company is committed to 9 of malls in his new book, “Call of the Mall,” and shares a few thoughts. president and chief executive of- maximizing productivity in its ex- Jones Apparel Group on Tuesday launched a hostile $297 million takeover ficer, said in a statement, that isting stores, expanding in a dis- bid for Maxwell Shoe Co., setting the stage for a possible bidding war. “strong sales in the last three ciplined manner, providing ex- 10 quarters of fiscal year 2003 were ceptional customer service and WEST: Three designers are set to introduce handbags at next week’s Los the cornerstone of our successful executing key merchandising ini- 14 Angeles fashion week; Joie adds a higher-priced denim line. year.” tiatives. Our strategic focus The chairman noted that im- should enable us to capitalize on proved full-price selling in the the current momentum in luxury SUZY fourth quarter helped increase retailing and on the company’s The tycoons gathered to celebrate Brian Mulroney’s 65th birthday at Club total sales and sustain the retail- future growth prospects,” he said. 4 Colette in Palm Beach over the weekend. er’s gross margin. For the year, net income fell “Our solid top-line growth, 15.7 percent to $7.1 million, or 50 Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 coupled with disciplined expense cents, due to refinancing, from $8.5 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is controls, contributed to the company’s double-digit million, or 61 cents, last year, while sales increased [email protected], using the individual’s name. increases in operating income and [earnings be- 6.8 percent to $409.5 million from $383.4 million. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 fore interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization] —Vicki M. Young FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior After Sluggish ’03 Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Chanel on the Ginza: President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Kohl’s Takes Steps No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR A Towering Project DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Toward Rebound required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production By David Moin nies. Salvatore Ferragamo, for correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, example, is constructing smaller please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild By Dan Burrows magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully NEW YORK — Chanel has a tall stores. Calvin Klein, with owner and Evan Clark screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive order for Tokyo. Phillips-Van Heusen, is pushing these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. On Tuesday, the Paris-based, its better, jeans and innerwear NEW YORK — After growing at WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND privately owned design house will lines more so than the higher- breakneck speed for more than TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART stage a press conference in Tokyo priced collection, and scouting a decade, Kohl’s Corp. seemed WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED to cover all the details of its flag- sites for Calvin Klein Jeans to suffer a case of exhaustion TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ship project in the city’s Ginza stores. And Prada is selling off last year. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. district, which the company has real estate to cut debt. The com- Since the company went pub- designated “The Chanel Tower.” pany is selling an 80 percent lic in 1992, it pushed itself like a Based on some information stake in its 28,000-square-foot sprinter running a marathon, pur- that Chanel and master store ar- “Epicenter” store in Tokyo’s suing a torrid pace of store ex- In Brief chitect Peter Marino of Peter Aoyama district, which is Prada’s pansion and promising investors Marino + Assoc. Architects dis- biggest location. Prada will con- annual earnings growth of an eye- closed to WWD this week, it trol the balance of the store and popping 20 percent. Kohl’s was ● GILLETTE ACQUIRES REMBRANDT: Placing itself squarely in seems Chanel wants to rival the pay rent on the unit, which long the darling of Wall Street — the fast-growing whitening category, Gillette Co. said Tuesday it other big name design houses opened last summer. At the time, but then it stumbled. acquired the teeth-whitening products of the Rembrandt brand that have already constructed the space was touted by Prada as Weakness in women’s moder- from privately held Den-Mat Corp. The financial terms of the giant flagships in Tokyo, includ- the largest single investment by ate apparel contributed to com- deal, which is expected to be completed in the second quarter, ing Christian Dior and Prada. an Italian company in Japan parable-store sales stagnation, were not disclosed. It is subject to customary regulatory and “The Tower will be the dis- since the end of World War II. markdown pressure and slipping other closing conditions. With its Oral-B products, Gillette is a trict’s tallest at 215 feet and is Chanel officials have in the gross margin. Store conditions leader in the $5 billion total brush market. “While we will con- defined by a high tech multilay- past acknowledged that there are deteriorated. Investors, analysts tinue to focus on Oral B’s core franchise in manual and power er facade, which incorporates a limited possibilities for addition- and vendors grumbled. Then the brushing, this acquisition places us in the dynamic whitening complex system of integrated al full-line, ready-to-wear bou- unthinkable happened: Kohl’s segment that will be a platform for future growth,” said Bruce and programmable LEDs,” tiques around the world, though posted an annual decrease in Cleverly, president of Gillette Oral Care. According to Goldman Marino said in a statement. The new Chanel concepts, such as profits for the first time in more Sachs, Rembrandt’s annual sales are about $70 million. Chanel Tower plans call for smaller boutiques selling just ac- than a decade. erecting 14 stories, including cessories or jewelry, have legs. Profits for the year ended Jan. ● TIFFANY’S NEW POST: Tiffany & Co. is planning to open a store three for retail. There will also Last December, the world’s 31 slid 8.1 percent to $591.2 mil- in Westport, Conn., this fall. Located on Post Road at Main Street, be an exhibition space, Chanel largest Christian Dior boutique lion, or $1.72 a diluted share. the 5,500-square-foot unit’s assortment will include signature col- offices and a rooftop Alain opened in the Omotesando sec- Sales rose 12.7 percent to $10.28 lections by Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso and Jean Schlumberger, Ducasse restaurant. The build- tion of Tokyo. The store was de- billion, while comparable-store the Tiffany legacy engagement ring, the new Tiffany Mark T-57 ing’s total square footage will be signed by architects Kazuyo sales dipped 1.6 percent. watch, as well as accessories, china and crystal gifts. 66,000 square feet. Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of It’s been a tumultuous time Marino is responsible for the firm SANAA. for Kohl’s, but after a flurry of ● FACTORY 2-U LANDS CFO: Norman Dowling, former vice Chanel’s worldwide architectural Dior also has plans to open management and merchandising president of Petco Animal Supplies Inc., has joined Factory 2-U concept. The Chanel Tower on flagship shops in Kobe, Shinsai- changes, industry observers are Stores Inc. as executive vice president and chief financial offi- the Ginza is one of three new bashi in Osaka and Ginza. Its ex- once again bullish on the compa- cer. Dowling, 41, has 22 years of finance experience, including Chanel flagships designed by isting flagship has 10,760 square ny’s future. stints as cfo of CinemaStar Luxury Theaters and director of fi- Marino. The others are Chanel on feet of selling space, four floors While Kohl’s executives de- nance at Advanced Marketing Systems prior to Petco. Factory 2- Rue Cambon in Paris, which was above ground level, plus a pent- clined to comment for this arti- U also announced that on March 16, Norman Plotkin, chief exec- completed last year, and Chanel house. The shop is located at 5-9- cle, chairman and chief execu- utive officer, was elected to the board of directors. on 57th Street here, which is 2 Jingumae, Shibuya Ward. The tive officer Larry Montgomery, on scheduled to open this fall. street is also home to one of the the fourth-quarter conference The Chanel tower, to be locat- world’s largest Louis Vuitton call last month, described 2003 as ed at 3-1-1 Ginza Chuoku, is ex- stores, as well as Tag Heuer, “a very difficult year for Kohl’s.” pected to be open to the public Chaumet and the One Omote- “It clearly didn’t meet our stan- Corrections in December 2004. sando building in which Fendi, dards,” Montgomery said. “We Velvet’s annual volume is $15 million. The number was incorrect Apparently, with luxury retail- Celine, Loewe and Donna Karan learned a lot, plus we’ve gotten a in a story on page 10, March 18, describing its new line and divi- ing picking up worldwide, Cha- are located. Chanel, Gucci and lot of feedback from our cus- sion, Wyeth. nel, like other design houses, has Yves Saint Laurent boutiques tomers, our associates and our in- ● ● ● no qualms about doing it big, are also on the block. vestors. We’ve had over 10 years of Michelyn Camen is senior vice president of marketing for though the last couple of years The interior of the Dior flag- very successful performance as a Simmons Jewelry Co. Her title was incorrect in a story on page have been marked by a new prag- ship was produced in collabora- public company prior to last year.” 11, Monday. matism at most designer compa- tion with Marino. Continued on page 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 3 Swank Showing Sensual Side for Calvin Ads
By Eric Wilson ing this fall, and Natalia Vodianova and Fredrik Ljungberg for various products. Hilary Swank NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc. has cast Sensual Support, described as offering on the set for another celebrity face in its upcoming more support to style-conscious cus- the Calvin advertisements, signing Academy tomers, will be the newest intimate ap- Klein Sensual parel offering from Warnaco Group Award winner Hilary Swank for the Support global launch of its new intimate appar- under the Calvin Klein brand, arriving at campaign. el collection, Calvin Klein Sensual retail in July. Support. The 29-year-old Swank, best known Swank will appear in print, outdoor for her 1999 best actress award-winning and other media in support of the performance in “Boys Don’t Cry” as a launch, and will join Calvin Klein’s other woman who dresses as a young man, recent exclusives — Scarlett Johansson might sound like an unusual choice for for a new Calvin Klein fragrance launch- a women’s underwear campaign, but both Swank and Calvin Klein market- ing officials expect that the finished product will show a different, more sensual side of the actress than her public audience might anticipate. This is the first ad campaign in which she has appeared. “When you see Hilary now, she has long, beautiful hair, and she looks like the woman that she is,” said Kim Vernon, senior vice president of global Don’t Cry,’ so many people have this shapers will provide an “opportunity to advertising and communications for image of me — which is normal, because reach new customers.” CKI. “When you see these gorgeous, I think your first impression of people is “The collection is sexy, modern, beau- sexy, feminine pictures, I believe they what you are left with — so it will be in- tifully designed and offers superior fit will surprise people.” teresting to hear and see people’s reac- and full support with no aesthetic com- Swank has had a long relationship tions to seeing me in the Calvin Klein lin- promise,” Mazzoli said. with the company, attending some of its gerie campaign.” The addition of a new intimates clas- fashion shows and wearing Calvin Klein This category of foundations for sification will most likely increase rev- to several awards events, having become Calvin Klein Underwear is part of a enues, as well as brand awareness. friends with Klein — after the designer new generation of high tech shapewear Earlier this month, Joe Gromek, saw “Boys Don’t Cry” and invited her to bearing the “Calvin Klein Sensual Warnaco’s president and chief executive lunch — and more recently with designer Support” mantra. Calvin Klein Under- officer, said the brand has been impres- Francisco Costa. According to Vernon, wear for women has traditionally fo- sive “geographically,” with European Swank said on the set that she chose to cused on collections of basic and fash- revenue exceeding $110 million and appear in the campaign partly because it ion underwear; daywear pieces such as Asian operations topping $25 million. was an unexpected move. camis and tanks; sleepwear and at- The company ended 2003 with more Shooting for the campaign, which will homewear items that have an updated than 33 freestanding Calvin Klein break in August and September maga- look of casual sportswear, and bras and Underwear stores globally, and it ex- zines, began on Monday in New York coordinating panties in fashion colors pects to have more than 60 stores world- with photographer Steven Meisel. The and prints. A mainstay has been its wide by the end of 2004. The company ads are planned to appear in more than sheer Marcasite bras and panties in has also been busy with a junior under- 50 core fashion and lifestyle magazines basic and fashion styles. wear line under the Choice Calvin Klein in 20 countries. Bob Mazzoli, who rejoined Calvin label. According to materials provided by Klein Underwear in the newly appointed —With contributions from Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa with CKI, Swank said on the set of the shoot, post of chief creative officer in early Karyn Monget, New York, and Swank at an Academy Awards week bash. “It’s interesting, that since doing ‘Boys March, said the launch of updated Rose Apodaca Jones, Los Angeles
Falaise and Martine Sitbon also came by to pay their respects. The Fashion Scoops show runs until Aug. 29. Luca Luca Fla. Trunk Shows LADY’S NIGHT: An all-star (though NEVER CAN SAY GOODBYE: It was some would say motley) crowd, Marisa Rack Up $180,000 in Sales that 1973 number one hit that put including Tom Hanks, Rita Wilson, the original disco diva Gloria Berenson Leelee Sobieski (with new beau Gaynor on the charts, and it’s Julian Lennon), Michael Patrick King NEW YORK — Luca Luca staged among the trio of requested of “Sex and the City,” Marjorie trunk shows at its three Florida classics she’ll be belting out this Raein, Edie Falco and Connie stores, scoring $50,000 in sales Sunday night to Tom Ford and Nielsen headed downtown to the March 11-13 at the Coral Gables some 800 of his mostly famous Landmark Sunshine Cinemas for a unit in The Village at Merrick pals — Ashton and Demi, Heather special screening of the new Coen Park, $80,000 at the shop in the Graham and Lucy Liu — when he’s Brothers movie, “The Ladykillers.” Bal Harbour Shops from March honored at the Rodeo Drive Walk Kevin Bacon arrived late and barely 15-17, and $50,000 at the Palm of Style. A fan of Gaynor’s — found a seat, while John Waters Beach store March 19-20. having opened his spring 2004 enjoyed the film sandwiched Among the bestsellers were a YSL show with her “Reach Out and between his two favorite heiresses: baby alpaca coat in black with I’ll Be There,” which she’ll reprise Patty Hearst and her daughter, Swarovski crystal cuffs, retail- this weekend — Ford is clearly Gillian Hearst-Shaw. They split to ing for $3,300; a rose silk and setting the stage for this street head to the after-party at Capitale: wool dress with Swarovski crys- bash on the legendary Beverly Waters arrived by bus; the Hearsts tal detail, at $1,650, and a long Hills thoroughfare. Longtime took a car. At Capitale, a former black-beaded silk dress with a Luca Luca’s friends Tom Hanks and Rita Wilson bank, Salman Rushdie, sharing an pink satin bow, at $2,500. black baby are said to be presenting Ford with ice cream cone with Padma The second annual Fashion alpaca coat his maquette and both are Lakshmi, introduced himself to Fete fund-raiser helped boost with expected to show up in Gucci. Of Bruce Springsteen, who stood the sales. The March 12 event Swarovski was held at a private estate in course, with his sights set on chatting with Hanks and Wilson, crystal cuffs Hollywood, the one song Gaynor while Elizabeth Banks, who starred Miami Beach, and was hosted by is a will also be singing that should in “Seabiscuit” and is now filming Luca Luca and the Jackson prove most fitting for the evening “The Baxter” with Michael Metropolitans, a support group bestseller.
is her Grammy-winning anthem, “I STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Showalter in the city, waxed lyrical of the Jackson Memorial Will Survive.” about the Coens. “They've got such Foundation, to benefit the Holtz For the charity, Luca Luca Gogo, and her famous an instinct for characters. They Children’s Hospital, which is donated a shearling coat, which IN THE PINK: It was a family affair granddaughter, Marisa Berenson. launched Tara Reid in ‘The Big part of Jackson Memorial was auctioned for $7,000. The Monday night in Paris when the “She was a magician,” Berenson Lebowksi.’ Don’t you remember her Hospital. About 350 people saw a winner donated the coat to the Museum of Fashion and Textiles said after surveying the more than sucking toes at the pool? It was showing of Luca Luca’s fall 2004 charity and it was auctioned welcomed the Elsa Schiaparelli 250 outfits, accessories, sketches perfect. I mean, yikes!” collection and paid either $350 a again, this time receiving a win- exhibition first shown at the and perfumes on display. “I would All the guests, from Aiden Quinn seat, or $500 for a seat at a table ning bid of $10,000, for a total Philadelphia Museum of Art last have loved to have her talent, but to Marlon Wayans, received a waffle close to the runway. The event take of $17,000 for the cause. fall. On hand at the inauguration you can’t compete.” Designers iron as a parting gift. And they didn’t raised $130,000. Some people Luca Luca later said the coat re- party were Schiaparelli’s daughter, including Sonia Rykiel, Loulou de la even have to open an account. came to the store the next day tails for $6,000. with wish lists from the show. — David Moin 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 Brian Mulroney’s Big Birthday in Palm Beach
Princess Firyal of Jordan
By Aileen MehleSuzy Everybody who matters in the political, banking and business worlds knows The Right Honourable Brian Mulroney, the Barbara Bush eye® personable and handsome former prime minister of Canada. Brian ran his country WIREIMAGE BUSH BY BARBARA when Ronald Reagan ran his and Lady Thatcher ran hers. bought it, she thought she’d never wear it, so she gave it in from her new Palm Beach house, maybe the biggest in And when they worked together it was as smooth as silk. to a thrift shop. After a while, the thrift shop sent it back the resort. She was with Frank Chopin, as ever. The powerful trio meshed brilliantly. and said they couldn’t sell it. So Nancy said she took the Winston Churchill and his wife, Luce, were greeting The Right Honourable is a lucky fellow. He has a bull by the horns and decided to wear it to the Mulroney friends from all over the world, including the Canadian beautiful wife, Mila, to whom he has been married for party. It was a grand success. You just never know, do you? banker John Deitcher and his wife Diane, David Metcalfe many happy years; a beautiful family, and he sings like a Texas tycoon To m Hicks was there with his wife, Linda; and Pauline Pitt, there with Jamie Niven. Michele and lark — and at the drop of a hat. Naturally, he has mighty Robin Hambro flew in from London, and American tycoon Howard Kessler flew in from Boston; Freddie and Virginia friends in high places and low, too, for Dear Brian could David Koch and his wife, Julia, swept in from their Melhado came from just a few minutes away and so did have invented the common touch. magnificent nearby Palm Beach estate, which is growing Hillie Mahoney, Anna and Bill Mann, and To m Quick with Many of these friends came from far and near to help more and more magnificent by the moment, filled with Lucia Musso, all of whom winter in Palm Beach. Brian celebrate his 65th birthday at a fabulous party, a treasures and decorated by the international designer Brightening their tables were such as Claudine and dinner dance, given by the Mulroney family in Palm Beach Alberto Pinto. Jorge Pereira of Portugal; Christine and Steven over the weekend. They took over Club Colette, the George Bush was flanked by Mila and Princess Firyal of Schwarzman, the New York banker who runs Blackstone; restaurant everyone who is anyone in the resort Jordan, dressed by Jean Paul Gaultier, and at that same table, Susan and Ross Johnson; Terry Kramer and Nick Seminich; frequents, and in came the passing, star-studded parade. along with Max and Marjorie Fisher, were Ambassador Alyne Massey; Grace and Chris Meigher; Jean Tailer; the Everyone was thrilled to see Barbara and George Bush, Nancy Brinker and Vic Damone and his wife, Rena. famous Canadian doctor David Mulder and his wife, Norma; who flew in from Houston just for the party. Oh my, but the Lord Black, staying at his Palm Beach house (it’s still Cynthia Boardman; Brian’s brother, Gary Mulroney; Sondra Bushes are in fine fettle. Barbara, full of life, in a bright for sale), sat next to Lesly Smith, Palm Beach’s mayor, and and Michael Palangio; Pierre-Karl Peladeau, merely the blue silk jacket and George, dancing with Mila Mulroney in close by were American tycoon Wilbur Ross (steel and biggest printer in North America, with Julie Snyder; Arnold her silver lamé Dolce & Gabbana confection while the textiles) with Hilary Geary; the Duchess of Marlborough; Scaasi and Parker Ladd; Nancy Tsai; David and Sherrie room looked on. Cristina Goldsmith, now divorced and back to her maiden Westin of the ABC Westins; Rajko and Silvija Renusa from Tycoons abounded — Canadian tycoons Paul name of Cristina de Caraman; Charles Gargano; Jessie and Croatia; Rosemary and Wafic Said of Paris and London; Desmarais and Galen Weston and their bejeweled wives, Rand Araskog; Maria and Raymond Floyd; Robert Higdon; Harry and Gail Theodoracopulos, and Miss Joan Rivers, at Jackie and Hilary; the Irish tycoon Sir Anthony O’Reilly and sugar tycoon Pepe Fanjul and his wife, Emilia; Pepe’s her funniest. Wearing 5-inch rhinestone heels, she brought his Greek heiress wife, the former Chryssie Goulandris; brother, sugar tycoon Alfie Fanjul; Dr. Marjorie Fisher the house down. Last but not least were the three General Alexander Haig and his wife Patricia; Judy and (daughter of Marjorie and Max); Bill and Barbara Evans of unbelievably handsome Mulroney boys, Ben, Mark and Alfred Taubman, and Lauren and John Veronis. Marjorie California; Paul Desmarais Jr. and his wife, Helene; Nicolas, who each spoke humorously and lovingly about Fisher, the wife of Detroit tycoon Max Fisher, wore the Venezuelan tycoon Gustavo Cisneros and his wife, Patty; their father. (Sister Caroline Lapham couldn’t make the showstopper dress of the party, black silk with enormous Sally Quinn and Ben Bradlee, in from Washington; Michael party because she was sick in New York.) gazar ruffles at the shoulder designed by Ralph Rucci, a Bublé, the young Canadian singer mentored by David This party started a social revolution in PB, said one of gown to wear when someone famous does your portrait. Fisher, who is selling more records than he can count, and the terminally enthusiastic guests when the party was still Another showstopper was worn by Nancy Silverman, the Ira and Nicki Harris. Cristina Macaya, the best-dressed going on at 2:30 in the morning. Most parties here, you wife of American tycoon Henry Silverman — a short, Spaniard, made an appearance, as did Aziz Radwan, the see, end at 10:30. Not when the Mulroneys give one. Oh, dazzling semi-vintage orange-and-brown paillette sheath Eton-schooled Egyptian magnate who flew in from Cairo, and George Bush, 80, in his speech about Brian, called him designed by Maria Snyder of New York. After Nancy and the tycooness Kate Ford, widow of Henry, who drove “kiddo.” That put the young whippersnapper in his place. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 5 Overtime, EU Sanctions Cause Intense Debate in Senate
By Joanna Ramey that will be particularly helpful longer and longer weeks and not EU began levying 5 percent du- continue, which will drive down for figuring out pay for technolo- get paid for it,” Harkin argued on ties on U.S. exports after the the economy,” said Charles WASHINGTON — An election-year gy workers. Joined by others in the Senate floor. World Trade Organization Grassley (R., Iowa), Senate showdown being closely watched the business community, retail- Adding even more political deemed a U.S. export subsidy to Finance Committee chairman. by retailers is set in the Senate ers also counter Democratic ar- spice to the already boiling be unfair. The duties will in- In the meantime, other road- today, as Democrats maneuver to guments that changes will result Senate cauldron, Democrats crease 1 percent monthly until blocks facing repeal of the EU- block pending Bush administra- in millions of people being re- want the overtime amendment they reach 17 percent. offensive export subsidy remain tion changes in federal rules gov- classified as managers and thus attached to legislation that would As Democrats accused Repub- in the wings. There are two com- erning who gets overtime pay. losing bonus pay of time-and-a- lead to the European Union licans of being antiworker by try- peting House bills that continue Members of Republican lead- half after working 40 hours. dropping punitive duties on some ing to block the overtime amend- to divide Republicans on the ership in the chamber, where the The new rules are expected to $4 billion in U.S. exports, includ- ment, GOP senators returned the issue. One group of 25 House party has a narrow 51-48 majority, be released by the Labor ing apparel and textiles — a accusation for holding up legisla- Republicans, opposed to legisla- have their fingers crossed. They Department next month. However, measure called the JOBS Act that tion addressing the EU’s concerns. tion sponsored by House Ways & are counting on a parliamentari- the controversial amendment is widely supported by The export subsidy repeal bill Means Committee Chairman Bill an sidestep and party loyalty to sponsored by Sen. Tom Harkin (D., Democrats and Republicans. would also create some $50 billion Thomas (R., Calif.), have said keep moderate GOP members Iowa) would restrict funding to im- To stymie Democrats on over- in tax breaks for U.S. manufactur- they’ll withhold their votes until from siding with Democrats, who plement the new rules, thus killing time, Republicans are seeking a ers, a must-court constituency this Thomas withdraws added tax last year succeeded in peeling off any changes. The Bush adminis- vote today to block amendments heated election year. cuts benefiting American multi- enough Republicans to see a sim- tration wants “people to work unrelated to the EU fracas. The “Delay will allow sanctions to national corporations. ilar measure approved 54-45. With jobs a central presiden- tial and Congressional election- year issue, the Senate overtime debate is “highly politically charged,” said Katherine Lugar, vice president of legislative and political affairs with the National Retail Federation. Retailers are eager to see the administration’s overhaul of Depression-era overtime rules realized. Merchants say they’re looking for clearer regulations U.S., Colombia To Talk Trade
By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — U.S. Trade Representative Robert Zoellick said Tuesday the U.S. will begin free-trade negotiations with Colombia during two days of talks set for May 18 to 19, but it has not yet given the green light to three other Andean countries. Zoellick met with Colombian President Alvaro Uribe and Minister of Trade, Industry & Tourism Jorge Humberto Bortero on Tuesday to discuss bilateral trade issues, the ongoing Free Trade Area of the Americas and the global trade talks, which col- lapsed last year. The trade meet- ing followed a meeting Alvaro had with President Bush in which he made an appeal for additional aid to fight drug trafficking. The U.S. already has a pref- erential trade program with the four Andean countries of Colombia and Ecuador, Bolivia and Peru. Colombia is by far the largest supplier of textiles and apparel in the Andean region, accounting for about half of the area’s exports to the U.S. For the year ended Jan. 31, imports of apparel and textiles from Colombia totaled 150.7 mil- lion square meters equivalent and were valued at $547.6 mil- lion. Colombia is still a small supplier, with only a 0.36 per- cent share of all U.S. imports. Zoellick said in November the U.S. is seeking to negotiate a U.S.-Andean free-trade agree- ment, but outstanding issues have slowed talks with the three other countries. Zoellick said he hopes to resolve outstanding in- vestor disputes with Peru and workers’ rights protections and investor disputes with Ecuador in the coming weeks to include them at the negotiating table with Colombia. He noted Bolivia will be included at a later time. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 Lauren’s World: T
By Lisa Lockwood Simple, O, the Oprah Magazine, and The New York “It’s beating plan,” said Frank Doroff, executive vice Times is appearing this spring, as well as a direct-mail president and general merchandise manager at NEW YORK — The world of Lauren by Ralph Lauren is campaign from stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Marshall Bloomingdale’s. “The clothes look more true to the getting bigger. Field’s, Macy’s West and Nordstrom. Lauren spirit and the fabrics are better. On track to hit $400 million in wholesale volume in Once it got the license back in June, Polo had to “We thought the fall looks terrific,” he added. its first year, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, the better-price quickly gear up to make the spring season. Roy said she LaVelle Olexa, senior vice president of fashion mer- sportswear collection, is out to expand its scope with interviewed 1,000 candidates, hired 150 employees in chandising at Lord & Taylor, which has the largest Lauren new and upgraded licensed products, ranging from ac- July and showed the first spring collection Sept. 8. In by Ralph Lauren presentation in Manhattan, said, “It’s re- cessories to fragrance to tabletop. addition, the company had to set up new design, mer- ally been fabulous. It’s been selling phenomenally. It’s A division of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., Lauren has chandising and distribution facilities. more in line with the Collection’s spirit. There are more worked with its licensees to improve existing footwear, “The most important thing is to make sure the stores tailored pieces and it is a little less casual than it’s been.” accessories, small leather goods, jewelry, swimwear and are doing well. Everything came in on time,” she said, Olexa believes the Lauren line “has maintained its sleepwear products. In April, it will also introduce sev- adding the company delivered 95 percent of the mer- core customer and is appealing to a younger and more eral Lauren home furnishings categories, such fashion-conscious customer.” as tabletop, furniture and bedding at retail, and As for the bestsellers, she said pink has sold Ralph Lauren at will launch a signature Lauren fragrance in the Ralph Lauren at across the board, in sweaters, outerwear, print- fall called Lauren Style. Lauren is also strate- his showroom ed bottoms and skirts. “The quality is quite ex- gizing with department store retailers to build lastlast week.week. cellent,” she added. in-store Lauren sportswear shops as large as “We’ve been very pleased with the results,” 4,000 square feet and is considering opening agreed Jacque Hall, senior vice president, gener- freestanding stores around the country. al merchandise manager of Macy’s West. “The Since Polo got the Lauren license back from good news is it’s pretty broad and it’s been selling Jones Apparel Group in June, elevating the across all classifications. Toppings and jackets Lauren by Ralph Lauren merchandise has are selling well.” been the company’s number-one priority. Hall said the Lauren line is attracting the “We redesigned the whole concept where I same customer who bought it when it was pro- thought it should be. Now it’s spectacular. Ten duced by Jones. “It’s still a classic customer years ago, it was one of the big success stories who wants a better product, but it has a nice so- in this industry,” said Ralph Lauren, chairman phisticated look to it. She recognizes the name of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., in an interview at and the price value to it.” the new Lauren showroom on the 18th floor of Hall was in New York earlier this month to 550 Seventh Avenue here. buy the fall line and said, “It was beautiful. It’s “It’s a day-in, day-out business. It’s not an sophisticated and really had a Ralph Lauren opening or a fashion show. We’ve built a busi- appeal to it. We also noticed the nice weights.” ness, we have a customer and we have an audi- Part of Lauren’s philosophy is to target the ence,” added Lauren. Southern stores and those areas of the country Giving a tour of the new showroom, rigged for with warm third quarters with lighter-weight fall selling, Kim Roy, president of Lauren by Ralph Lauren, explained, “We’re really connect- ing it to Ralph’s heritage. We’ve injected it with This is my whole world. modern mix-and-match silhouettes and we’ve up- graded the quality of fabrics, the make and the “Everything you know here trim. We really have put so much more into the product and broadened the lifestyle assortments.” is Ralph Lauren. The reinvigorated Lauren line was shipped to 900 doors in the misses’ departments and 400 ”— Ralph Lauren doors in petites and women’s departments in late January. Under Jones, Lauren’s misses’ fabrics. Southern stores account for 50 percent line was sold to 1,100 doors. of the business. “We wanted the distribution to be cleaned The company has intensified the go-to-work up,” said Roy, explaining that the company cut aspects of the fall line, as well as expanded the back on some branches of department stores lifestyle components. The Lauren line has 1,400 and eliminated some stores altogether. She said stockkeeping units, some 200 fewer than the stores within Federated Department Stores, collections Jones offered. May Department Stores and Marshall Field’s For fall, Lauren dug into his archives and have experienced sell-throughs of high double- pulled out some of his signature looks for the digit increases against plan. line, as well as plenty of smart basics. The collec- Under a four-year strategy, many of its ven- tion features rich velvets, paisley print skirts, dors will build in-store shops ranging from 500 shrunken jackets in leather or suede, charmeuse square feet to 4,000 square feet, said Roy. She skirts, herringbone and tweed suiting, scarf tie noted that Lord & Taylor plans to unveil its tops and an assortment of knits, from ruffled 4,000-square-foot Lauren shop in mid-April and front to cable. For evening, Lauren offered a se- Bloomingdale’s is slated to install a 4,000- lection of black dresses, from a strapless pleated square-foot shop when it renovates its third bust cocktail dress to a knotted halter gown. The floor in early 2005. line is augmented with a replenishment program Designed by Lauren’s team, the shops’ color of cable-knit sweaters, denim jeans, shirtings schemes will be white and chrome, with looks and corduroy pants in an array of colors. For fall, from the line displayed at the entrances, said Roy. there are three deliveries: August, September The shops will have a residential feel with ot- and October. tomans for customers to sit on and both flat and As for the fit, Roy said, “It’s a misses’ fit, but hanging products. “It will be very modern,” ex- TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY we’ve modernized it and tweaked it a little bit.” plained Roy. chandise on the start date. “We’ve had phenomenal re- Roy said the basic prices of the Polo-produced line are In addition, Lauren said he plans to eventually open sponse at retail. We’ve exceeded our February plans by nearly the same as they were under Jones. However, freestanding Lauren shops around the country. high double digits across the board,” said Roy. She said Lauren added a few more items at the upper end. Overall, “Retail is in the picture, and right now we’re focusing the total business is on track to achieve $400 million in the prices are up about $10 at retail. For fall, jackets on the U.S. It’s definitely something we feel we should wholesale volume its first year. wholesale from $115 to $145; coats and outerwear are $75 do. The Ralph Lauren business [in department stores] According to Roy, some of the spring bestsellers have to $600; tailored pants and skirts are $59 to $149; casual has been helped by having [directly owned] retail stores. been the pink twill suit, pink trenchcoat with black skirts and pants are $29 to $49; shirts and knits are $29 to It works better than mass distribution,” he said. jodhpurs, feminine cable sweaters, sleeveless sweaters $59, sweaters are $39 to $199, and dresses are $69 to $129. There are no plans to expand distribution this fall, and a tiered handkerchief floral skirt. The customer According to Lauren, the beauty of the line is that it’s said Roy, pointing out that the Lauren collection is also also has been responding to the casual outerwear balanced and appeals to a range of women. available for sale on the company’s Web site, Polo.com. pieces. “I do what I think is right for now, what is always To kick off selling across the country, Lauren will Stores said they’re experiencing strong results with timeless and looks great,” the designer said. “I think host 25 fashion presentations in stores such as the line. that long is great, and short is great. I think my audience Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Marshall Field’s. The “The new Lauren line is on a weekly basis exceeding is my audience. There’s not an age. The women are be- first one was held Saturday at Bloomingdale’s in Boca expectations,” said Ron Klein, chief executive officer of tween 35 and 75. I think this is a quality audience. The Raton, Fla. A newspaper and magazine advertising cam- Macy’s East. “The customer is happy with the way it woman is very timeless and classic and classy in her paign in titles such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Real looks, and they’ve delivered on our expectations.” own way. That’s what I stand for. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 7 The Next Chapter
“This is my whole world,” he added. “Everything you For fall, Cotton and know here is Ralph Lauren.” Lauren by cashmere The designer said what is being achieved at Lauren Ralph sweater wasn’t happening in the last three years under Jones. Lauren’s and bias- “It’s a high level of quality. It had changed into a fast suede jacket, cut silk commercial sports business. Now I think our customer silk and charmeuse can be the chairman of the board, or anybody else. It’s cashmere skirt. really about stylish clothes at a price that’s affordable shell and silk and has a sense of quality,” he said. georgette While Lauren praised Jones for building “a fabulous paisley and business,” (in 2002, the line generated $548 million in rev- velvet skirt. enues at Jones), he said he was unhappy with the direc- tion it had taken. He recalled that he and Roger Farah, president and chief operating officer of Polo, took a tour of stores several years ago and looked at the Lauren by Ralph Lauren departments. “We were doing all this busi- ness, but it wasn’t how I envisioned it should look. I was really shocked.” When he started the business with Sidney Kimmel, chairman of Jones, in 1995, Lauren said he loved the ini- tial concept. “He was the right guy and it was done beauti- fully. It was a great partnership. But when we took it back, we saw what we had to do. We had to develop the product and redo the shops presentation, and provide our point of view for the brand. The brand was neglected and it didn’t look as good as it should by a long shot,” said the designer. Meanwhile, the two companies are still embroiled in a lawsuit. Jones filed a breach of contract suit against Polo last June, as well as former Jones president Jackwyn Nemerov, seeking $550 million, representing lost profits from sales, and punitive damages to be de- termined. Polo immediately returned fire, filing its own lawsuit separate from any counterclaims it may have arising from allegations in the Jones suit. “The lawsuit is still going on, and there’s been no resolution,” said Lauren. As noted, Justice Richard Lowe last week denied Polo’s motion to dismiss Jones’ complaint. Polo said it would appeal the decision, and was prepared to take the matter further, if the appeal is unsuccessful. Also last week, analysts from Goldman Sachs, Banc of America Securities, Buckingham Research Group, J.P. Morgan Chase & Co., Prudential Equity Group and Mer- rill Lynch were given a tour of the Lauren showroom and Cotton seemed enthusiastic about how the line looked and its contribution to Polo’s financial performance, but a few balmacaan pointed to the increasing competition on the better floor. and silk Robert F. Ohmes, an analyst at Banc of America and Lycra Securities, wrote in a research note, “We estimate that spandex the Lauren women’s brand should add $400 million to sweater- wholesale revenues in fiscal 2005 (ending March 2005), dress. the first full year in which the Lauren women’s brand will be in-house, and eventually help grow the women’s business to 60 percent of nonlicensed revenues [at Polo] from less than 40 percent currently.” He also noted, “The new Lauren line already appears to be gaining market share from competitors in the better women’s category as the response from retailers [includ- ing the new fall line] and customers remains strong.” Lizabeth Dunn and Stacy W. Pak, analysts at Prudential, wrote in their research note, “We are still worried about competition, including Jones Signature, two Liz Claiborne lines, H by Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Michael Kors. And the competition heats up in earnest in the back half of the year, but the Lauren product looks well-positioned to compete.” While Lauren acknowledges many top-name American designers are offering better price lines, he feels as com- fortable in this area today as he did 10 years ago. “When I came into this [better] business in 1995, there was no competition. When I bought my business back [from Bidermann Industries in October 1995] I saw a market and went after it. It was a great concept, a line geared to women who loved Ralph Lauren and couldn’t afford to buy the Collection. This was the woman with intelligence, class and style who didn’t want to spend all her money on clothes. I never understood the bridge de- partment, I went right to better,” he said. Lauren said he’s undeterred by the competition and believes the strongest companies will survive. “If it’s not this group, it’s another group. The competition makes you better. It [better] is an area that needs to be devel- oped. Competition makes everyone sharper. “I lived in this world all my life,” he said. “There isn’t one competitor. If business is good, it’s good. The differ- ence here is we have total control. We set the tone, the marketing and the shops. Anything I’ve had under my PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY own supervision has been successful.” 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004
In the Mainstream Kohl’s Set to Rebound After Tough ’03 Continued from page 2 Since its inception as a publicly traded company, the Menomonee Falls, Wis.-based hybrid retailer has gone from a regional player with 76 stores in six states to a national powerhouse. Just this month, Kohl’s opened 21 stores, making a total of 563 across 37 states. A year ago, the company entered Southern California with 28 stores, extending the Kohl’s domain from coast to coast. The retailer is charging ahead with plans to enter several new markets this year, including Sacramento, Calif., San Diego, Syracuse, N.Y., and Salt Lake City. In all, Kohl’s is looking to open 95 doors this year, expand- ing square footage by roughly 18.5 percent. However, plans for 2005 call for another 95 new doors, representing a slowdown to roughly 15 percent growth in square footage. Analysts, while noting the slowdown, see it as an opportunity for the retailer to focus on improving its existing store base. It could also foretell Kohl’s interest in acquiring a number of Kevin Mansell Larry Montgomery Mervyn’s sites from that retailer’s parent, Target Corp. It’s an open question, though, as to how many doors product development functions. consumer was buying.” Kohl’s can eventually operate, since the firm’s stand- In September, Beryl Buley, executive vice president While the retailer’s merchandising direction is still a alone format is not tied to the fortunes of shopping and director of stores, departed. This left Montgomery concern, it’s no longer the greatest worry, said the exec- malls. To keep up anything like its current growth, to take control of the store operations group, also on an utive, who has shifted to spending sleepless nights Kohl’s will have to avoid or quickly correct any future interim basis. mulling rising gas prices. missteps, as it is widely accepted that the retail land- Elaine A. Hughes, president of executive search firm “If it’s going to cost [the moderate customer] $200 a scape is already overloaded with stores and any growth E.A. Hughes & Co., said, “The general consensus is, in re- month in natural gas or fuel, that’s more than what she must come at the expense of competition. Other chains, placing [Leto], they should replace him with three peo- pays on clothing in the month,” said the executive. such as J.C. Penney, are becoming more competitive and ple.” The three could be situated as general merchandise And yet, industry observers are once again upbeat on are experimenting with stores that mirror Kohl’s own managers over women’s, men’s and accessories. Kohl’s prospects. off-the-mall concept. “From an apparel standpoint, I think they got over- “We believe Kohl’s has reached an inflection point,” The fuel for Kohl’s growth spurt to date has largely loaded with almost a commodity look to the product, wrote Smith Barney’s Weinswig last week. “We believe been the mixture of a simple, easy-to-shop, racetrack particularly on the women’s side,” she said, noting that the inflection point is that management is no longer in layout on a single level with wide isles, along with ag- was “a management problem.” denial. More specifically, we gressive advertising and competitive pricing. But last “Rick’s got a very good rep- Daisy Fuentes believe management has ‘seen year Kohl’s appeared to run out of gas. Analysts, in- utation as a merchant,” said modeling her the light’ and has recognized vestors and vendors began to complain about declining Hughes, adding however, new women’s that what is happening inside gross margin rates, stagnant inventory turns and sloppy “When the business is in trou- sportswear the mousetrap needs to be up- stores overstuffed with merchandise. ble somebody’s got to fall on line, which dated. We believe consumers’ Historically, Kohl’s managed a gross margin rate of the sword.” tastes have moved toward rolled out to about 34 percent. Last year proved to be a bump in the Vendors, of course, are hes- more fashion-forward apparel road, though, as markdowns in women’s apparel pulled itant to speak on the record 182 Kohl’s and they are unwilling to over- margin rates down to 33 percent. This year, the retailer about Kohl’s, a key account for stores this pay for ‘basic’ apparel product. expects to return to historical levels. much of the industry. month. “Brands that have a reso- “It has been a rocky ride with Kohl’s over the past Privately, though, many of nant fashion component have several months,” Smith Barney analyst Deborah Kohl’s suppliers just a few performed very well at the Weinswig wrote in a research note on Jan. 21, adding months ago were hot under company despite broader lack- the firm had seen, “Disappointing sales and margin the collar, feeling increased luster sales trends. According trends resulting from persistent inventory problems pressure for markdown to Liz Claiborne management, and less zealous consumer spending at the store.” money and lower orders from sales of Axcess to Kohl’s as of Investors reacted to Kohl’s woes by pushing its the retailer. They seem to third quarter 2003 were up shares down to a 52-week low of $40.81 Jan. 9 on the have cooled off some after a nearly 300 percent on a year- New York Stock Exchange. Since then, the firm’s shares strong February, when the over-year basis.” have rebounded to close at $48.39 Wednesday after trad- same-store sales at the store With regard to the particu- ing up 68 cents on the day. were up 6.6 percent. larly soft women’s moderate Kohl’s has also seen some management upheaval, One vendor source said of business, Weinswig said the with control of its operations being concentrated, for the abrupt departure of Leto, company is heading in the di- now, in the hands of a few key executives. Earlier this the head apparel merchant, rection of offering more relat- month, Rick Leto, executive vice president and general “They’re really making sort of ed separates rather than coor- merchandise manager of apparel and accessories, left a statement. They’re using it dinates. Moreover, the early the firm. On an interim basis, Kohl’s president, Kevin as an example to say, ‘Hey, we success of a new Daisy Fuentes Mansell, is overseeing the apparel, accessories and are doing something.’” sportswear line, which landed The source continued, “I in 182 Kohl’s stores this month, don’t believe that there’s any- validates the retailer’s move to thing wrong. They’ve grown so become more differentiated in fast and so consistent over the its merchandising efforts. IN THE MIDDLE years. It can’t last forever. It’s Kohl’s has also made great VAREKOVA TAKES ON MACY’S: Sports a glitch, but I don’t think it’s strides in cleaning up it Illustrated and Perry Ellis will have anything serious. I don’t think stores, which at one point Veronica Varekova, cover girl of it’s going to stop them in their were so overloaded with in- Sports Illustrated’s swimsuit issue, growth. They may have to ventory, shoppers in some lo- on hand at Macy’s Herald Square scale it down.” cations were having difficulty April 1 to sign copies of “Sports Another vendor source said navigating the aisles. Illustrated’s Knockouts: Five that Kohl’s was “doing an excel- “Having reduced per-store Decades of Swimsuit Photography.” lent job of getting rid of the old inventory to manageable levels, The event starts at 5 p.m. on the merchandise that hasn’t been Kohl’s stores today look roomi- second floor and gives the first 100 working and trying to get into “Having reduced per-store er and easier to shop than at customers who spend more than new things that are working. any time in the past two years,” $75 on Perry Ellis merchandise a They are looking to fund the inventory to manageable A.G. Edwards & Sons analyst free copy of the book. growth with new and exciting Robert Buchanan wrote in a re- The 26-year-old model will be people, and probably people levels, Kohl’s stores today search report on March 10. dressed by Perry Ellis designer within the existing structure “Store standards have also im- Patrick Robinson for the event. that are willing to be new and look roomier and easier proved greatly from the de- exciting. I do see change work- plorable conditions that were FROM POODLE TO SASSON: Susan ing for them and I do see them to shop.” the case throughout last year.” trying to push change.” Agnello has been named vice Veronica Varekova — Robert Buchanan, A.G. Edwards & Sons Buchanan also applauded president of sales and Added a third vendor execu- Kohl’s apparel mix, as “spring merchandising of Maurice Sasson and Simply Seamless by tive, “They had too many brands and were trying to do too fashion content has also increased with key styles by such Maurice Sasson at Intertex Apparel Group. Agnello reports to many things at the same time, and they’ve pared back.” modern-twist lines in misses’ sportswear as Nine & Co. and Sandra Price, president of the Maurice Sasson and Kikit That paring has met with some success, said the ex- Axcess, these days more trend-right and understandable.” divisions of Intertex, and comes to the new position from ecutive, who added, “All my businesses are up [at Given those factors and other improvements, Buchanan Kellwood Co., where she was vice president of sales and Kohl’s]. They’re going to be fine, but then again, busi- said he is convinced that Kohl’s has “made major positive merchandising of Pink Poodle and Northern Isles. ness is good everywhere. If you didn’t have a good strides and is now further along the proverbial ‘comeback February, you were asleep at the wheel because the trail’” than he had thought was the case. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 9
Marketing Mirror, Mirror on the Mall By Valerie Seckler even for some urbanites,” he added, pointing to the $2 billion Time Warner Center, opened NEW YORK — They’re all about connections. here in February, as an example. The human kind, as in person to person. This environment is especially alluring, in While shopping malls — a 50-year-old fixture Underhill’s view, for the Millennial genera- of American society — appear at first blush to be tion, which comprises some 71 million indi- all about commerce, author and retail anthro- viduals, including today’s tweens, teens and pologist Paco Underhill begs to differ. young adults through age 26. “It’s the first “The fact that makes malls fundamentally place they go to check out who they are — to viable is that they’re places to look at other try themselves out in a safe setting,” he main- people,” Underhill said in an interview. It also tained. “For them, the mall will continue to be happens to describe what he does for a raft of a place to hang out.” corporate clients, from Saks Fifth Avenue and “Brands like Louis Vuitton and Betsey Gap to Starbucks and the U.S. Postal Service. Johnson are making their way into shopping He observes how people behave in such com- malls,” Underhill said. “They’re smart enough mercial settings in his role as chief executive to realize the malls are the place they will officer of Envirosell, a global research and encounter a new generation of people.” consulting company based here. For such reasons, regional malls aren’t going “If malls were only places to get what we away anytime soon, Underhill insisted, despite need, they would crumble,” maintained Under- various claims to the contrary over the past hill, author of the recently published “Call of decade or so as vacancy rates have climbed; the Mall” (Simon & Schuster, $24.95), compris- some malls have been torn down or redevel- ing 221 pages of first-person narrative and oped for alternative uses, and shopping itself anecdotes in which he dissects the dynamics of has lost some luster as a leisure activity. For America’s 1,175 regional malls with a keen eye instance, there’s a group of government build- for detail. For example, he points out the stains ings in Greenville County in South Carolina on the outside of the Mall of America in that was the Bell Tower Mall; in Tupelo, Miss., Bloomington, Minn., and grass poking up through a convention center occupies the former cracks in its asphalt parking lot, which he claims Downtown Mall; and in High Point, N.C., the in the book indicate the 13-year-old complex — former Westchester Mall has been converted the country’s biggest regional shopping center, into a Wesleyan religious complex including a at more than four million square feet — has not sanctuary, a nursing home and a bookstore. aged gracefully. In an overarching manner, malls serve as a cultural touchstone for the country’s popula- If malls were only places tion. “We look to these shopping venues as a good dipstick to measure who we are,” to“ get what we need, they Underhill observed in the interview. “Some of us love them, some are ambivalent and would crumble. some hate them. Like it or not, though, shop- Call of the Mall: ” ping malls represent what we are,” he added. “A longing for — Paco Underhill “It’s a great place to look at America.” pop-culture Indeed, slightly more than half of what peo- communion.” Nonetheless, in his quest to analyze and ple do in malls is unrelated to shopping — such relate the roles regional malls play in our lives, as eating, socializing, playing games, hanging out Underhill has uncovered some troubles in shop- and watching movies, Underhill writes. Too, the ping’s halls of paradise, in the form of missed perceived entertainment value of a mall is unre- opportunities. Some of the most glaring include: lated to the amount of time people devote to ● The failure to offer a mix of basic servic- shopping there or the number of items they es, such as a dry cleaner, tailor, locksmith and buy, he relates, despite decades-old laundromat. efforts by retailers to make the ● The absence of supermarkets. store experience more enter- ● The dearth of coat-check areas, let alone taining. “So shoppers can be ones located near mall entrances — ideally, exceedingly fond of their each one. mall and still not spend By the Numbers: The Malling of America ● The lack of will-call desks where purchases can much money or time in be dropped off and picked up when shoppers are stores,” Underhill states. ● Regional malls in the U.S.: 1,175 ready to leave. “It’s a risk” for stores that ● Sales produced by America’s regional malls annually: ● The short supply of baby strollers, especially lease space in them. $308 billion those offered for free. It’s not that the auth- ● Regional malls’ share of U.S. retailing volume*: 14 ● Parking lots and garages that are difficult to negotiate. or is disavowing the role percent Filling such voids at the country’s regional malls, of malls as shopping pal- ● Share of apparel shoppers who wait for dressing rooms Underhill said, “would help construct them as a com- aces. In fact, he notes they at regional malls: 40 percent plete solution” to people’s everyday needs — a partic- account for some $308 bil- ● Share of apparel shoppers who wait for dressing rooms at ularly compelling role given the ever-ascending prior- lion in annual sales, or about Paco city stores: 25 percent ity placed on convenience. 14 percent of U.S. retailing, ex- Underhill ● Regional malls in the U.S. more than 20 years old: 783, or In fact, one of the most common reasons people are cluding sales of automobiles and two-thirds opting to buy things online rather than in a mall is to gasoline. ● Birth of America’s first enclosed regional mall: 1934, Edina, avoid wasting time looking for a parking place. In In “Call of The Mall,” though, Underhill places those Minn. some European malls, Underhill said, parking guides halls of commerce in a broader societal context and does ● Largest regional mall in the U.S.: Mall of America, Bloomington, or computer-based technologies direct cars to the so in a chatty voice inflected with a wry sense of humor. Minn., approximately 4 million square feet. nearest open spot. For instance, even as he draws a parallel between his ● Largest regional mall in the world: West Edmonton Mall, Alberta, Regional malls that add, say, a dry cleaner and a research at a mall like Tyson’s Corner in McLean, Va., Canada, approximately 5 million square feet. supermarket might grab business from neighborhood and an archaeology dig in Peru, he acknowledges analyz- shopping centers, which commonly feature such ten- *U.S. RETAILING VOLUME EXCLUDING AUTO AND GASOLINE SALES. ing shoppers and shopping venues is a rather unusual SOURCE: “CALL OF THE MALL” BY PACO UNDERHILL ants. And the nation’s shoppers might respond favor- way to make a living. “On the other hand,” he quips, “I ably to a laundromat placed near a mall’s entrance, as never run out of socks.” (And his first book, the four-year- People shop at a more leisurely pace in regional malls than city stores, they are in many South American malls, Underhill sug- old “Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping,” is now pub- with more of the mall crowd willing to wait for dressing rooms. gested, which would allow mall patrons to drop off their lished in 20 languages.) laundry, shop and return to pick up clean clothing. Naturally, shopping malls spring up where housing is developed. With many of the Those suggestions hint at what the author views as the biggest mistake U.S. mall country’s 83 million Baby Boomers currently considering “where they are going to developers have made during the past 50 years: aiming too low, when their projects live the last third of their lives,” as Underhill put it in the interview, some suburban have succeeded town squares as focal points of contemporary society. “Malls are begun malls are poised to benefit from relocations both to and within suburbia by people first as real estate projects, unlike stores like Macy’s and Altman’s that were retail age 50 and up. Not that he’s expecting a mass migration to the ’burbs by Boomers who palaces merchants proudly put their name on,” Underhill said. “The overwhelming don’t already live there, but the generation is sizable enough for malls to benefit from majority of malls in the U.S. are over 20 years old, and I can’t see many of them achiev- those who do, or who may simply shift suburban locales. Others may opt for rural set- ing landmark status.” tings or urban environs such as Boston, New York, Chicago and Seattle — cities As the author writes in “Call of The Mall,” shopping centers in Brazil, Japan and already experiencing an influx of individuals 50 and older, noted Underhill, who also Portugal, though inspired in a broad sense by America’s malls, have aesthetics far sur- is an urban geographer. passing their objects of inspiration — objects he describes as big, beige, boxy and vir- “The mall is very real for suburban culture,” he observed, describing a reality that tually featureless. America’s malls, Underhill exhorts, “could be much better, more persists despite the typical regional mall’s artificial, bubble-like quality, a controlled vivid, intelligent, adventurous, entertaining, imaginative, alive with the human quest environment housed in a sterile design. “It remains a concentrated place to shop — for art and beauty and truth. But it’s not. It’s the mall.” 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 Clarins, Vichy Face Scrutiny Jones Seeks Maxwell Shoe Takeover
By Vicki M. Young well’s stockholders to consider is ours, in effect, [due to] Anne Over Risqué Ads in Turkey the offer.” Klein.” NEW YORK — Jones Apparel Peter Boneparth, Jones’ chief He added that the company Group Inc. on Tuesday launched executive officer, disclosed on “started the offer” at the same PARIS — The Turkish minister of amot scent for the shampoo and a hostile $297 million takeover Tuesday at Merrill Lynch’s Re- $20-per-share price that the industry and trade, Ali Coskun, a rose-and-mandarin fragrance bid for Maxwell Shoe Co. at a tailing Leaders and Household board rejected because the firm has launched an inquiry into ad- for the conditioner, with the help per share price lower than what Products and Cosmetics Con- thought it was a “fair and full vertising used for Groupe Clarins of Camilla Parker-Bowles. Duchy Maxwell’s stock is trading at, but ference that he feels Maxwell is price.” Jones will also be and Vichy Laboratoires’ anticel- Originals also has plans for alu- with the potential for a higher a “terrific fit” for the Jones launching a consent solicitation lulite products, Lift Minceur minum-free deodorants, body bid on the way. shareholders. What precipitated that will allow it to have direct Anti-Capiton and D-Stock Anti- balms, shower gel, moisturizer Jones on Tuesday began a the hostile move was Maxwell conversations with Maxwell Storage Body Contouring Gel- and soap, although they have tender offer at $20 per share — management’s refusal to meet shareholders, Boneparth said. Cream, respectively. ruled out a makeup range. The a share price point that was al- with Jones to discuss its propos- The company’s mind-set is that The campaigns, which fea- firm is currently in negotiations ready rejected by Maxwell’s al. Jones previously made an those discussions will help de- ture naked with U.K. super- management on March 12 — for offer, but said the only contact termine the proper valuation women, will be markets, Boots all of the footwear firm’s 14.8 was the public statement of for Maxwell, as well as possibly analyzed to de- and independ- million class A shares. At the March 12 rejecting the offer as a higher offer. cide whether BEAUTY BEAT ent stores to bell, shares of Maxwell were up “inadequate.” Emanuel Weintraub, a fash- they conform to stock the hair 2.3 percent from the prior Turkish laws stipulating that ads and bath care products. All prof- close, ending the day at $22.59 “may not contain expressions or its will go to the Prince of Wales’ on the Nasdaq. We’re going to let the shareholders images nonconformant to gener- Charitable Foundation. The tender offer and with- “ al morality.” Turkey’s laws also — Ellen Burney drawal rights are set to expire of Maxwell decide what the right specify “advertisements shall on April 19. Jones is also plan- not contain expressions or im- ning on nominating five direc- valuation of the company is, and ages that could mislead con- The Other Camilla Factor tors to Maxwell’s board. sumers directly or indirectly via LONDON — Camilla Rutherford, In a filing with the Secur- whether or not they want to see creation of false impressions by the British model-turned-actress, ities and Exchange Commis- way of providing incomplete in- has now turned model again. sion, Jones told shareholders the company sold. formation, leading to meaning After making her mark in the of Maxwell that it was “seeking — Peter Boneparth,” Jones Apparel Group Inc. confusion or presenting exag- British film “Gosford Park” in your support for the removal gerated claims.” 2002, Rutherford has been of each current director of “At the end of the day, what ion industry consultant of the “As minister of industry and tapped to be the new face of Max Maxwell and the election of we’re really doing is, we’re firm that bears his name, ob- trade, I’m decisive to fully imple- Factor cosmetics. Rutherford’s our five nominees because we going to let the shareholders of served, “This is the start of a di- ment the requirements of the law London-based modeling agency, believe that the current direc- Maxwell decide what the right alogue by a company that wants [regarding the] protection of [the Select, confirmed that she will tors of Maxwell are not acting, valuation of the company is, to make the acquisition. You consumer],” Coskun said in a star in the fall campaigns, al- and will not act, in your best and whether or not they want can’t discount the management statement. though Max Factor said it had not interests.” to see the company sold,” skill and leadership of Peter The filing also said that Boneparth said. Boneparth. He is very astute, Maxwell’s board of directors He also noted that because came out of Wall Street and If found guilty, Clarins and Vichy “refused to amend its ‘poison Maxwell is the footwear licens- earned his way to his leader- pill’ rights plan or take other ee for Anne Klein, “almost 40 ship slot. He has experience in could each pay fines up to $34,100. steps that would permit Max- percent of Maxwell’s business buying businesses.”
If found guilty of breaking yet confirmed the deal. If it does Turkish law, Clarins, Vichy and go ahead, Rutherford will follow the agencies diffusing their ads in the footsteps of Madonna and could each pay fines up to $34,100 British model Catherine Hurley at current exchange rates, or as Max Factor representatives. Retailers, School Join Book Fund-Raiser 44.98 billion Turkish lira. The in- — Nina Jones vestigation is to be concluded and NEW YORK — Retailers here president of Fishs Eddy, who erate hype for a cause, this time a decision rendered on April 13. have devised a strategy for en- brought the idea of Shop 4 Class cartoonist and children’s book au- L’ Oréal-owned Vichy has al- French FiFi’s couraging shopping during slow to the Fund for Public Schools. thor Jules Feiffer has created art ready tweaked its ad so the PARIS — Winners at the 12th periods and supporting a good The retailers plan to donate a to appear on promotional materi- naked body in it is blurred. French FiFi Awards, which took cause at the same time. They’re portion of their gross revenues — als and ads for Shop 4 Class. Also, “We decided to modify the vi- place March 22, were L’Instant de binding together for a school a 2 percent minimum or a desig- Scholastic, the children’s publish- sual, as we believe it’s right to Guerlain for best women’s fra- book drive, called Shop 4 Class. nated lump sum — so public ing, education and media compa- take into account the opinion of grance and best women’s scent The promotion, scheduled to schools can buy books to set up li- ny, is creating posters, counter the minister,” said Roberto Sera- bottle; Gucci Pour Homme for run May 21-28, is being organ- braries inside kindergartens and cards and 100,000 Shop 4 Class fini, associate manager of the best men’s fragrance and best ized with the Fund for Public first-, second- and third-grade brochures listing participating re- Mediterranean region for Vichy men’s scent flaçon, and Serge Schools, a nonprofit organiza- classrooms. tailers and their addresses. and La Roche-Posay, another Lutens’ Fumerie Turque for best tion under the auspices of the “A lot of classrooms either “The Department of Educa- L’Oréal-owned brand. original fragrance concept in city’s Department of Education don’t have libraries or have out- tion has been reaching out to all For its part, Clarins is also limited distribution. and the city’s tourism marketing dated libraries with old books New Yorkers to support our willing to change its campaign if For the first time, the FiFi arm, NYC & Company. that are not very relevant for schools and the retailers involved necessary, said Isabelle Herbre- committee queried French retail- So far, about a dozen retailers children,” said Ben Austin, vice in Shop 4 Class are setting a won- teau, vice president of the com- ers about which new scents they are committed to the cause, in- president of marketing and com- derful example,” Caroline Ken- pany’s international division. consider “coup coeur” (or, in cluding charter members Fishs munications for the Fund for nedy, chief executive of the But until now, there has been English, evoking love at first Eddy, Cynthia Rowley, ABC Public Schools. “We hope to build Department of Education’s Office no reason to do so. “For the past sight). Winners in this category Carpet and Home, J&R Music classroom libraries for younger of Strategic Partnerships, said in 15 years we’ve used the same were Rive Gauche Pour Homme and Computer World, Gracious kids, so they can take the books a statement. “They came forward campaigns [for Clarins products] for men and L’Instant de Guerlain Home and Books of Wonder. home and also have dedicated with a commitment to literacy, a in Turkey as we’ve used in West- for women. Organizers hope to attract more time to read in class.” great idea, and the willingness to ern Europe,” Herbreteau said. “If “I can’t think of a more per- stores soon and have a Web site According to Austin, $800 work to make it succeed. I hope we’ve used that advertising, it’s fect venue than the Hotel de listing at nycvisit.com/shop4class. buys 300 books and a $16,000 do- more stores will join the effort to because until now we’ve had no Ville” for this event, explained “It is a great way to bring to- nation from a retailer could es- provide much needed books in indication that we can’t use it.” Rochelle Bloom, Fragrance gether New Yorkers in a way that tablish 20 classroom libraries. our classrooms and look forward — Brid Costello Foundation president, referring will have a lasting effect upon our Rather than recruit a super- to a successful week of shopping.” to the elegant city hall in Paris. community,” said Julie Gaines, model as retailers often do to gen- — David Moin She said the building embodies Hair to the Throne the glamour and history of the LONDON — Second-best to being city in the same way fragrance TRADING SPACES: Garden’s style department and will act as a liaison a royal heir would be to have embodies the glamour and histo- Dominique between the editorial and advertising staffs, helping to royal hair — surely. And for sum- ry of France. Browning wasted develop special projects such as this summer’s mer, it’s looking likely. Prince MEMO PAD little time Southampton show house. Charles is set to launch a line of capitalizing on The magazine could certainly use a few more organic hair care products in col- Award Winner her rival Mark Mayfield’s recent staff reshuffle, naming overtures to advertisers. While most of the shelter book laboration with London-based PARIS — Marie Béjot, president former House Beautiful executive editor Carolyn Sollis to category was sent reeling last year, insiders mutter that hairstylist Daniel Galvin Jr. and founder of nutritional beau- the newly created post of style director at House & House & Garden’s editorial approach is too eclectic for The collection will be sold as ty supplements company Labora- Garden. its own good, confusing readers and advertisers alike. part of the Prince’s Duchy Origi- toire Oenobiol, was honored by Sollis, who spent 11 years in high-level posts at the Whether that’s true or not, House & Garden continues to nals organic food line and will the French government on Mon- Hearst-owned House Beautiful, left the magazine last have difficulties in 2004 — ad pages through April are roll out the first two products — a day when it appointed her a month after her position was eliminated. She previously down 20 percent, according to Media Industry shampoo and conditioner priced chevalier of the Legion of Honor. had spent 22 years at House & Garden, part of Condé Newsletter — while its rivals claim to have turned the between $9 and $11 — in July. The Legion of Honor is France’s Nast, which, like WWD, is owned by Advance Magazines. corner and many are demonstrably up, or at least flat. The prince himself is thought highest-ranking order and deco- Upon her homecoming, Sollis will run House & — Greg Lindsay to have chosen a lime-and-berg- ration. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 11 Fossil Acquires Michele Continued from page one expanding global presence without ceding control of the company. Michele pioneered the better watch segment, which has been at- tracting a lot of attention with entries from companies such as TechnoMarine and Locman. “The strength and prestige that Jack Barouh, his family and entire team have developed with Michele provides an added di- mension to Fossil,” said Steve Bock, president of Fossil’s luxury division, in a statement. “I think one of the most important things is that the change is one of ownership only,” said Barouh, president of Tempus. “Myself and the management will continue to operate as usual.” Michele initially entered the U.S. high-end market in 2000 with its CSX Diamond collection, snagging Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s as its first accounts. Prior to that, said Barouh, the company had concentrated on doing business in Latin America. However, since the U.S. introduction the brand has achieved rapid growth in the better department store segment. Today, said Barouh, the Michele brand is a top seller across the board. “In the average price point of $1,000 we’ve become the best-selling watch in most of the major department stores we sell to, including Neiman’s, Saks, Nordstrom’s and Bloomingdale’s,” said Barouh. According to Barouh, retail sales with Neiman’s are now in the neighborhood of $8 million. Despite the strength of the company, Barouh realized in order to capitalize on its growth he would need a partner. “I wouldn’t say I was actively looking [for a partner],” said Barouh. “While not knocking on people’s doors, I was definitely receiving people’s phone calls.” Stephen Burrows and Fossil moves into Alva Chinn the high-end fashion watch market with the Michele brand.
Looks from Alva by Burrows. Expanding Stephen’s World Approximately seven months ago Barouh, the third genera- NEW YORK — It’s almost shameful that virtually anyone can capitalize tion of his family involved in the watch industry, had his first on the influence of the 1970s on contemporary fashion — in animal print meeting with Fossil. caftans, disco ensembles and miles of chiffon — when Stephen Burrows, In particular, Barouh felt Fossil could help bring Michele into one of the original architects of that look, has spent the past couple of the global arena. “Our growth has been so fast from 2000 to 2004 years toiling away on the revival of his signature collection with limited that I felt in order to really get this thing going we would need to distribution. find a partner who would help us get to that level, and then be So Burrows is taking his look to the people, with all the accessibility able to take it further than that,” said Barouh. they can handle. The designer is launching a line of separates, retailing Fossil has positioned itself with a mix of watches ranging in from $40 to $99, that will debut on the Home Shopping Network on April price from $50 to $100 and up. Licensing agreements with 6 at 7 p.m., with Burrows and Seventies fixture Alva Chinn selling direct- Emporio Armani, Burberry, DKNY and Diesel have also been ly to consumers. Inspired by the model, Alva by Burrows incorporates the profitable for the company and extended the company’s interna- designer’s signature bright colors, silk chiffon wrap tops and crepe de tional presence with noticeable affect. chine pants, modified for the HSN customer. During Fossil’s fourth-quarter conference call, management Burrows and Chinn first met in 1973, at the height of the designer’s ear- trumpeted the strength of its international strategy and its dou- lier career, when he was dressing Pat Cleveland and the rest of the Studio ble-digit increases in sales. 54 crowd. Chinn had been discovered in Boston, where she was a student, Tom Kartsotis, Fossil’s chairman, noted on the call that internation- reading Look magazine and seeing Burrows as part of a fashion cover in al sales had ticked up 34.4 percent during the quarter ended Jan. 3. 1969, and thinking, “I’m going to New York and I’m going to meet those “Clearly, our ability to adapt our portfolio of watch brands to people,” she recalled. suit a particular market and country is working,” said Kartsotis. “This is so corny,” she said. “I was in a restaurant and I was crying International sales show no signs of slowing for Fossil. because my boyfriend was in Phoenix. A woman came up to me and told me According to Kartsotis, management anticipates international I should be a model. She sent me to Polaroid, and the next day I got a job.” sales to continue to claim a higher percentage of sales “given the Three decades later, Burrows, who relaunched his high-end collec- vast size of this market.” tion with Henri Bendel in 2002, and Chinn, who has worked as a com- For the year, Fossil saw earnings spike 16 percent to $68.3 mil- mercial actress in the meantime, decided to put their heads together lion, or $1.40 a share, from $58.9 million, or $1.22 a share, a year ago, with a collection for the masses. Alva by Burrows is being manufactured while sales rose 17.8 percent to $781.2 million from $663.3 million. by Due Per Due, which also makes collections for Susan Lucci, Debra Barouh also recognized that Fossil was looking to move into McGuire and Randolph Duke. The collection is aiming for sales of higher-priced items. “Fossil is extremely strong in the fashion $100,000 per episode, said John Miller, managing director of Stephen watch business,” said Barouh. “I knew I could add a lot to their Burrows World. higher- priced merchandise, which they are moving into.” “We talk about prints, what she wears when she’s traveling, what Barouh sees Fossil’s desire to establish itself as a lifestyle looks good, and then incorporate my sensibility into it,” said Burrows. brand, with its continued movement into accessories and cloth- “We wanted to make something accessible to people who normally don’t ing, as an opportunity for Michele. get fashion.” In the fourth quarter, Fossil’s 119-store retail operation posted a The 20-piece launch is designed so that its pieces — a jersey tank, a 26.6 sales increase and a 14.9 percent rise in comparable-store sales. wrap top, crepe de chine pants or a skirt — can be worn in any combina- “Through the contacts and the power of Fossil on a worldwide tion, mixing red, magenta, black and teal with leopard and giraffe prints. basis we should be able to make inroads into many of the mar- Unlike his signature collection, Alva by Burrows will be offered in sizes kets we just have not had time to attend to or look at seriously,” 1 to 28, with elasticized waists, no buttons and no zippers. said Barouh. He indicated that looking to expand its product of- “It’s soft, sexy and sophisticated, it’s very colorful and that’s basical- ferings beyond watches was of interest. With the “warehouse of ly it,” Burrows said. “My pitch is that as adults, we need to play, too, and talent” at Fossil, Barouh believes Michele would be able to sig- clothes are the closest things to toys for us. That’s how I think of clothes, nificantly shorten the time and learning curve needed to bring a as colorful toys.” new product to market.
— Eric Wilson TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004
mainly to EU markets, rose 4.3 Davidelfin percent last year to $7.9 billion, or 6.4 billion euros. Weak Dollar Plagues Spain Show Antonio Sánchez Juan, re- gional agent for Stylmode, a tra- By Barbara Barker ager Claudio Manchetti. “The she credited Spain’s fast-fashion ditional coat manufacturer from weak dollar is a major problem. chain, Zara, with energizing the northern Spain, said his booth MADRID — Despite such discour- Obviously U.S. customers want made-in-Spain image abroad, registered fewer foreigners and aging realities as the dollar’s yesterday’s prices, so we’ve had “which helps everybody,” she fewer visitors than past editions. weakness against the euro, flat to adjust our cost structure to said. “The coat sector here is in a consumer spending in Europe protect margins. With a soft dol- Madrid’s apparel fair is the transitional stage. In general, and aggressive competition from lar, two things happen: Either second largest in Europe after cheaper garments are being pro- Asian countries, vendors at the you lose money or you reduce Düsseldorf ’s CPD. IFEMA, the duced off-shore and, while a bet- recent SIMM show here, held be- quality, and we won’t do that.” trade event’s organizer, is com- ter-grade product has more of a fore the terrorist bombing last Manchetti predicted “many fortable with the ranking, said di- chance on the market, coats are week, said orders were better European shutdowns because rector Pola Iglesias. “We know tough to sell in warm-weather than expected, reflecting a more companies can no longer afford our limitations. We want to con- Spain,” he acknowledged. stable retail climate in Spain, to work with the U.S.” tinue being the clothing sector’s With an annual production of they claimed. Also reporting a positive re- premier fair in the south of 45,000 to 50,000 units, Stylmode The repercussions from the sponse at the show was Elisa Europe. The Madrid offering is reached sales of $7.4 million, or 6 attack remain to be seen, but at Cortés, whose 15-year-old epony- more Mediterranean; vendors million euros, in fiscal 2003, 80 the trade show, makers and mer- mous label is distributed through here are smaller [than those at percent from the domestic mar- chants were optimistic about three company-owned and fran- the German fair]. Our objective is ket. Principal export countries business ahead. chised stores in the south of to be a bridge between Europe are the U.K., Holland and Bel- “It’s a much better fair than Spain, an additional 120 domes- and Latin America, which is a po- gium, Sánchez Juan said. last August. Retailers are in a tic sales points and 40 doors in tentially strong market without The vendor’s basic sellers at mood to buy again,” said Yolanda the U.K. and Ireland. She said the buying power of Europe.” the fair were tweed fabrics and Moreno Ruiz of Mirto. The she had solid bookings for dressy According to IFEMA, the num- knee-covering lengths, wholesal- Madrid-based shirt maker, known black separates in velvet and ber of exhibitors at the four-day ing from about $198, or 160 euros. PHOTO BY ECHEVERRIA JUAN for its high-end men’s product, en- sheer combinations, wholesaling fair increased about 9 percent A spokeswoman for French 22 shows. Key trends included a tered the women’s market three at $222, or 180 euros at current over last February, to 965 from 37 exhibitors One Step and Ikks monochromatic palette, and black years ago. The brand has a strong exchange, for both pieces, and countries, both record highs. The said, “There are two sides to in particular; gangster-suit stripes American presence — 100 points leather-trimmed pants and jack- fair stretched over 13 percent Spain’s retail market — cheap and glitter fabrics; leggings and an of sale, with Florida as its princi- ets, from about $62 to $109, or 50 more floor space, or about 402,000 and expensive. Middle-of-the- elongated silhouette; smashing pal market. Moreno Ruiz said the to 88 euros, respectively. square feet, in six pavilions of the road stores have just about disap- novelty tops and bombers; hard- U.S. is where Mirto plans to posi- A second, more casual line, Juan Carlos I fairgrounds here. peared.” The labels’ young sepa- edged leather, and what one tion the women’s range, which, for called Marea Baja, featured a Traffic dropped marginally to rates in polyester and treated source called “actionwear chic.” fall, features masculine patterns graphic series of capelets, jack- 31,652 visitors, including 3,134 cotton sell to roughly 80 Spanish In related news, veteran Ro- with matching ties, double collars ets, skirts and pants in oversized foreigners. Major buying groups doors and in France, with 550 berto Verino dropped out of and cuffs, fabrics with a Lurex tweed and solid checks in deep came from Portugal (58 percent), points of sale, the brands will Cibeles. Sources said it was be- blend and stretch cotton. “It’s very wine, black and white textured France, Italy and Greece. launch their own corner next cause the show was not interna- commercial,” she added. wool. Wholesale prices ranged The production of apparel and month in the Paris department tional enough, so the Galician Average retail price on the do- from about $50 to $219, or 41 to textiles in Spain dipped 5.8 per- store Galeries Lafayette. designer is actively scouting ex- mestic market is 85 euros. In the 177 euros. cent in 2003, according to figures Running concurrently with the port markets and retail partners. U.S., Mirto’s shirts average $130 In general, Cortés added, from the Barcelona-based Textile trade fair, the SIMM-sponsored Sooner or later — next February, at retail, “about $30 more than spring merchandise is an easier and Apparel Information Center, runway presentations, Pasarela maybe — he’ll show in New York, last year,” confirmed sales man- sell for Spanish vendors, and while shipments for both sectors, Cibeles, featured 26 designers and a spokesman said.
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WWDVisual Merchandising In Depth Section II: May 5, 2004 Close: April 21 Visual merchandising can determine whether customers leave a store empty- handed or carrying a shopping bag. Decision-makers for any retailer — from department stores and specialty stores to mass merchants and drugstores — cannot afford to miss this in-depth section filled with the latest and most effective visual merchandising products, trends and technology designed to catch consumers’ attention and drive sales.
For more information, contact Joel Fertel, Associate Publisher, at 212-630-4573 or your WWD sales representative. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER, KYLE ERICKSEN AND TALAYA CENTENO ERICKSEN AND TALAYA KYLE TURNER, DAVID PHOTOS BY WWDMediaWorldwide® 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 WWD West New Business in the Bag By Rose Apodaca Jones MASON On the heels of the cult success of her signature LOS ANGELES — If there’s anything the recent econom- Bag and footwear line, designer Michelle Mason is rounding out ic downshift showed, it’s that a great bag can go a long shoes from her secondary business, sold under the Mason label, way to holding the bottom line. That point hasn’t gone Mason; a bag with its own shoes and handbags. unnoticed among three of this city’s top designers, who and matching “The sensibility is like the Mason clothes,” observed are all launching handbags during their runway presen- boot from the downtown designer of her forward sportswear line. tations here next week at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Corey Lynn “It’s fun, younger, not as sophisticated as Michelle Mason at Smashbox Studios. And two of them are covering a Calter. [shoes].” Pointed toes, bright accents and a mix or pri- woman’s other Achilles heel by also introducing shoes. mary colors paired with metallics characterize the leather line produced in Japan. It was there, during a PEGAH ANVARIAN fabric shopping trip at a trade show in Tokyo, where she What started out only four months ago as a Christmas came across a shoe manufacturer that produces there gift for her friends is now a business for Pegah and in China. A boot, wholesale tagged at $135, and a flat Anvarian, a designer known for cashmere togas and jer- slide, $105, can be had in three different colors. (In con- sey leggings. “It was just a simple clutch big enough for trast, Michelle Mason shoes are still produced locally in cigarettes, a driver’s license, a cell phone and lipstick,” limited supply until she locates a manufacturer in Italy.) she said of her foray into bags. “The response was The first collection of locally made handbags is split be- so amazing. I couldn’t not do it.” tween two structured leather styles — an oversized doctor’s During her show next Tuesday, Anvarian will bag and tote “large enough to fit my sketches and folders,” send out all six styles of clutches, in varying sizes said Mason — and two soft styles — a baguette and round and in black or burgundy, and all lined in the shape. Wholesale prices are between $135 and $170. dyed cashmere that is her signature. Adding accessories, she said, was about realizing sev- The locally produced line wholesales eral design ideas — as well as a business decision. from $150 for a lambskin clutch to $300 for Overall company sales are projected at $1.5 million, and an alligator envelope. The addition is con- the new footwear and handbag lines are expected to servatively expected to add another bring in $200,000. Mason is available at Barneys New $200,000 in sales to the $4 million her York, Bleu in Los Angeles and P45 in Chicago. company is projecting for 2004. Anvarian But she readily acknowledged the potential could be PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY anticipates distribution to be the same greater. “The financial motivation is definitely there,” specialty retailers, domestic eral bouclés, a multicolored laughed Mason, who is presenting her signature line and European, that now dot and prints of tattoos, roses this Saturday night inside downtown’s Second Street carry her clothing. Among and still another punctuated tunnel, and the secondary Mason line Tuesday at her current accounts are by beetle-like cars. The fall Smashbox. “I want to branch into so many different Henri Bendel, New York; line, which will wholesale things. It’s just the right time to add a category or two.” Madison, Los Angeles; between $55 and $75, bows Talulah G., Las Vegas, and April 1. Gregory’s, Dallas. To perfectly accessorize She pointed out this the matching dress and marks only the start in shoes, Calter is also intro- WEST WATCH fully realizing a lifestyle ducing three handbags in HOP ON: First came Von Dutch Originals and West Coast brand. “I'm obsessed several like fabrics and Choppers. Now joining the biker culture-inspired apparel scene with shoes, but you have trimmed in leather. An is Ron Simms. The longtime custom motorcycle builder, known to do them in Italy, so oversized doctor’s bag for his choppers that fetch $60,000 to $80,000 painted with I’ll be looking into that wholesales for $140; the skulls and cheesecake, plans to launch a fall line of tops for eventually. Beyond rounded, soft shoulder men and women, featuring T-shirts, tanks, camisoles and cap- that? Definitely, there bag is $95, and a 17-inch sleeve styles with motorcycle-inspired graphics. Simms has will be a lot more to envelope clutch is $68. created bikes for Aerosmith members, New York Yankees come.” “So much of my col- slugger Jason Giambi and former Houston Astro Ken Caminiti, lection is inspired by relationships that can help get the line, expected to wholesale COREY LYNN CALTER the fabrics first that from $25 to $40 and target specialty boutiques, off the ground. “Every season, be- the bags and shoes have “It’s hard to get a line launched, but we hope to leverage off his fore every fashion week, there’s that prob- to start there, too. Especially this friendships with entertainers,” said Bill McFarlane, founder of lem about the shoes,” said Corey Lynn time, the fabrics seemed to scream ‘I Hayward, Calif.-based Simms MC Inc., which owns the Ron Calter. “Are we going to find the right ones to fit the want to be a bag!’” said Calter. “Our Simms trademark and licenses it back to Simms for the purpose clothes?” So instead of facing another season fumbling giant houndstooth wools are awesome as coats, but of building motorcycles. McFarlane, a former venture capitalist for an answer, Calter went DIY — sort of. they also wanted to be a bag.” who has worked with apparel companies, including the Gap and She’s teamed up with Irvine, Calif.-based C-Label for With sales of the accessories ventures projected at North Face, also believes in creating buzz for the line even a small introductory line of four styles: a kitten heel; $300,000 of the overall $3 million, Calter expects the before there’s product. The company hosted a private party two stilettos (one pointed-toe, another peekaboo), and a new categories to surpass that of the sweater line she during NBA All-Star Week last month at Club 9000 Sunset in mid-calf, high-heeled, western-styled boot, all available added last year. Her clothing is now available at Big Los Angeles, attracting 800 guests. A Maxim ad featuring a in eight fabrics extended from her ready-to-wear line. Drop, New York, and Fred Segal Fun, Santa Monica, Simms bike giveaway and potential partnerships with bands and With a sharp sense of vintage style for fall, the C-Label Calif. “People are able to buy an entire look from us music production companies are in the works. for Corey Lynn Calter footwear collection contains sev- now, top to bottom. It was sort of like, ‘Why not do it?’”
the customer’s body, in medium and a senior designer at Levi Strauss & Co. darker finishes. Wholesale prices range and a vice president of design at Guess from $76 to $165, a steep jump from Inc. — Rucker isn’t looking for overt com- Joie’s $65 base. mercial success with the line. No more Joie’s Crystal Ball What also separates Future Vintage than 60 domestic and international spe- from much of the contemporary denim cialty stores will carry Future Vintage in LOS ANGELES — Good collectors figure hand-grinding and baking, the washes bunch is the location of its manufacturing its initial season, accounting for about $4 out today what might be worth a mint and finishes also have an extensive tech- and contracting plant: Kentucky. “Made million in wholesale volume for the year. tomorrow. Joie Rucker is banking on the nology component to them, which she in Kentucky” will be hand-embroidered So far, Harvey Nichols, Luisa in Florence, riches of denim. wouldn’t divulge. on the inside front waistband, and a Barneys New York, E Street Denim in The designer behind the sizzling Joie “It’s a secret, and we don’t want to booklet will accompany every garment Highland Park, Ill., and Planet Blue in contemporary sportswear line based share,” said Rucker, although she did explaining how it’s made and containing Malibu and Santa Monica, Calif., are here has launched a denim collection note that her wash process takes a month pictures of the makers. It’s Rucker’s way among the retailers with first access to called Future Vintage for fall. compared to the typical one-week denim of storytelling — she named the denim the line, which is expected to ship Aug. 1. “My goal is to have these garments in standard. styles after songs she likes — and instill- “She’s done a nice job on not making a vintage store 50 years from now, when The limited collection, which ing a little patriotism in the production another low-rise-flare, Gwyneth Paltrow I’m an old lady and I can go in there and includes a denim jacket, offers three process. “We’re paying a premium for look-alike jean,” said Thomas George, find them,” she said. five-pocket denim fits: Rock Me, a slight sewing and cutting, but we’re working owner of E Street Denim, crediting the Future Vintage’s distinction from boot leg with a low waist; Levon, a high- with a whole different level of experi- line’s washes and finishes as standout other contemporary denim brands, er-waisted, looser fit; and Blue Money, a ence here — the average worker has touches. George doesn’t think the new including Joie’s fashion denim pieces, is reinterpretation of the button-fly been there 15-plus years,” she said. line will eat into his existing Joie sales. its homemade base. Rucker developed boyfriend jean. The four washes offer Rucker said the TLC that she has “If she didn’t do this line, somebody else the denim from scratch, down to the cot- medium-to-dark looks, indigo with resin poured into the brand stems from her would have, and that would have canni- ton fibers, she said, working with mills. — geared to chip off with wear — and a denim passion. A designer with more balized her sales.” Along with extensive hand-sanding, half-worn wash that will mold the jean to than a decade of denim experience — as — Nola Sarkisian-Miller WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 15
MONIQUE LHUILLIER Fitter Fast paced, cutting edge fashion, Jr. manufacturer in Full-time Fitter needed for L.A. seeks the following highly motivated team players: our Beverly Hills Store. Must have Bridal and/or GRAPHIC ARTIST/DESIGNER Designer experience. 2+ yrs. graphic artist proficient in Photoshop and Illustrator. Fax Resume to: Must be able to interpret concepts to production. Jr. exp. a {310} 550-3394 must. Portfolio for review required! Needs to work well receiv- ing concept direction from Head Designer. Must be a team player and work well with a large design team. WEST COAST SALES Experienced sales professional with existing Jr. knit top and related relationships. Specialty store chain, private label and dept. store exp. preferred. TECHNICAL ASST DESIGNER Detailed individual with spec pack and import experience. Sweater experience preferred. Needs to have strong follow up skills and prepare extremely detailed paperwork for over- seas design team. FAX RESUME AND POSITION APPLYING FOR TO (323) 215-0120 TOP DOLLAR FOR (NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE) RETURNS,IR’S OR CLOSEOUTS WALT ADAMS INC T:800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 VP of Operations [email protected] SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA Organic wellness beauty company seeks experienced Operations Manager for an emerging growth company. Consumer products (preferably beauty) background, excellent negotiating and management skills, financial savvy and entrepreneurial personality required. SALARY + BENEFITS + STOCK OPTIONS Email: [email protected] or Fax: (800) 413-2584 Merchandising Professional MONIQUE LHUILLIER THREE DOTS Assistant Designer Men’s Wear Mfr. (L.A. Location) Couture evening house seeks highly motivated & talented, Men’s Wear Manufacturer seeks a career minded individual SALES REPRESENTATIVE detail-oriented team player w/ high level of taste & awareness to be a part of its Merchandising Logistics Team. Duties Seeking an exceptional person to join our corporate LA showroom include planning through sales analysis, inventory manage- of current trends. Exp. w/ embroideries & cashmere preferred. sales team. You have a strong fashion sense, 1-2 yrs experience Accountant/Bookkeeper ment, and coordination w/internal departments. Individual should have 2 - 3 years planning / buying experience. Must working with contemporary specialty stores and an entrepre- Seeking organized, dynamic individual to handle all aspects of be detail oriented, analytical, and organized. Excellent accounting - A/R, factoring, chargebacks, A/P, Final reporting. neurial spirit to grow existing accounts and develop new business. communication skills required. College degree a plus. Computer skills essential - expertise in ACT and AIMS beneficial. Quickbooks & garment exp a plus. Opportunities for growth! Please Fax resumes to: Excellent benefits. Please respond via fax to: (213) 627-0499 or Fax resume w/ salary history 310-559-4519 213-623-3226 Email: [email protected] 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004
Retail Sales Analyst TURN YOUR UNWANTED A New York City based accessory company seeks a senior an- CLOTHING and alyst to analyze all aspects of the business for their major re- tail customers. This individual must posses a min of 5 years ACCESSORIES INTO CASH experience preparing sales and market analysis. This person Asafashion executive you probably have acloset full of clothing and accessories must have experience using Retail-Link to obtain data neces- that you no longer wear. So why not sary to analyze sales, inventory, and any other functions asso- turn it into some real cash? DoubleTake ciated with monitoring Walmart activity. Must have experi- is the country’s premiere upscale con- signment boutique and because we have ence using CPFR and knowledge of Inforem. This position thousands of customers with an insatia- will be responsible for developing purchase order quantities ble appetite for designer fashions, you’re and inventory tracking. The position is also responsible for guaranteed to get the greatest return. Call Liz (973-564-6464) now to arrange the sales analysis of several other customers. The successful for a free pick-up and before you know candidate must have excellent verbal and written communica- it you’ll be getting your checks. tion skills, work well in a team environment, present a profes- sional appearance and travel to customer meetings as neces- sary. Extensive knowledge of Excel required and knowledge of Access is a plus. Salary commensurate with experience. Benefits include Medical and 401K and Profit Sharing. For consideration please fax your resume to 973 274-3019 Baby Jersey - Baby Rib French Terry - Lycra+reg Jersey + Rib Lycra + reg 718-389-8902 CUSTOMER SERVICE New York Sales Office
Warnaco Inc., a Swimwear Group maker of such notable Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. swimwear labels as Anne Cole and Nautica swimwear, No Lot Too Big or Too Small. amongst others, has an immediate opening for an experi- Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 enced Customer Service Representative to key in and process orders provided from our Sales Force. Must possess 5+ years experience in the Apparel Industry, ex- cellent data processing, problem solving and follow-through skills, and strong PC proficiency. JOBBER/EXPORTER 1407 BROADWAY We offer a competitive benefits package. Please send your We buy better goods. All categories, SHOWROOMS/OFFICES resume to: including fabrics. Immediate $$. TREBOR MGMT Administrative Executive Please call 212-290-2336 Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Assistant WARNACO, INC. Fax: 323-837-6401 488 7th Ave For VP level office of major fashion 1 BR. SHOWROOMS company. Must be meticulous Email: [email protected] Cut/Sew/Ship with details. Very busy, high energy LIVE / WORK Small or big lots. We do markers and From $1550-$1850, 400-600SF samples too. Call 973-266-0901 office requires superior computer Wd. flrs, hi ceils, April Occup skills in Microsoft Word, Excel and 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee PowerPoint. Professional and highly confidential in all matters. Must For Space in Garment Center have proven experience in problem Helmsley-Spear, Inc. solving and have a history of 212-880-0414 IMPORT /DOMESTIC PRODUCTION Full Service Prod’n: samples/cut/sew/ship proven results. Knowledge of for Woven, Denim Tops & Bottoms fashion industry, licensing and Penthouse Showroom 36th St. 5000 ft Hi-Quality; Sm-Lrg Vol; Fast & Reliable. marketing a plus. Only candidates Skylights Wood floor Great light FOB or LDP; Call Victor Lee: 917-748-9946 37th St. 7500 ft Full Floor WORLD HOLDING INC. with 5+ years experience assisting Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 212-221-9570 / 212-560-0693 executives should respond. E-mail: [email protected] Merchandise Coordinator Showroom / Office / Retail Pattern - Production - Samples We find you space-best deal-no fee Located at the Vera Wang Maids Sublet 525 7th/ready Garment Center Real Estate Full - Fast - Quality location in NYC. Responsibilities Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 212-575-1001 include: processing orders, collecting balances, maintaining WANNA MOVE? PATTERN/SAMPLES bank records and customer Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast relations. Part time sales also Established Lingerie Company Jeanswear company seeks Great Space. No fee. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 3,000-30,000 SqFt required twice a week along with Branded/Private Label is looking TECHNICAL DESIGNER Call Allan Gallaway occasional administrative duties. to fill the following positions: Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Experienced in patternmaking and Must have strong customer garment construction for both PRODUCTIONS service skills, computer skills Sales Executive: Denim bottoms and Knit tops. All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. with Microsoft Office Suite. Must have min 3 years exp. with Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Responsibilities include conducting Email cover letter and resume to: dept stores/private label sales. fittings/ spec comments, communi- [email protected] Must have strong comm and cate with factories. MS Excel/Word PATTERNS, SAMPLES, follow-up skills. Tremednous PRODUCTIONS knowledge is required. Freehand No Phone Calls Please EOE opportunity with launch of new knowledge is a plus. Email resume to: Samples and patterns full servcie shop National Brand. to the trade. Fine fast work. [email protected] Subject #CL-TDN 212-869-2699. Spec Technician: Min 2 years exp in bras, panties Full Charge Bookkeeper/ or sleepwear. Payroll Manager Sleepwear Designer: Min 2 years exp. Photoshop & Business Midtown NYC based high end Illustrator a must. apparel and bridal manufactur- Partner/Investor er looking for a full charge Data Entry: Profitable designer collection looking bookkeeper/payroll manager to expand. Sales over $5 million! Strong computer skills, knowl- We sell to majors and specialty stores. with at least 5 years of relevant edge of Great Plains a plus. Fax interest: 416-489-5799 accounting experience. At least one year of accounting work Please email Resume, Position must be in the apparel industry. and Salary Req. to: Required software knowledge [email protected] includes: MAS90, EXCEL, and Totally Confidential ADP PC for Windows. Primary duties include A/P supervision RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH as well as processing and DESIGN - 2 positions Exclusive to the Fashion Industry managing all payroll related Recognized Missy/Jr. Cut & Sew, Wo- Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 functions. Will work with ven & Sweaters Co. seeks: 1384 BROADWAY Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 general ledger accounts. Must Asst. Designer: talented person w/2-3 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 have strong knowledge of years exp.; Knowledge of Adobe Illustra- Sublet Furnished Showroom/Office Fax: 609-448-8248 Space. 3200 Sq. Ft. Bathroom/Kitchen. journal entries and monthly tor & PhotoShop. Available April. www.raskinexecsearch.com closings. Must be a proactive, Tech. Designer: must have strong un- Please call Billie (212) 997-0010 team player with good derstanding of garment construction; 3- W 39th & Broadway RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 communication skills. 5 years exp. Showrooms/Offices Updating/Phone Interviews Great growth opportunity & benefits. View of Bryant Park 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. 1060,1600, 2800, & 4600 Sq. Ft. Best Deals On The Avenue 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 Send Resumes to: E-mail resumes to Naqui at: Louis Zimbaro VP 212-889-7460 1675-3108 sq ft Beautifully Renovated (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 [email protected] [email protected] Joseph P. Day Realty Corp. Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 www.resumesforfashion.com WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 17
Merchandising
Renowned for comfortable clothing, EILEEN FISHER is also known as a comfortable workplace. EILEEN FISHER’s culture is one that values respect, honesty, awareness and the ability to listen and communicate. MERCHANDISE ANALYST NYC Showroom Use your strong quantitative analysis skills to support the activities of our Merchandising team. This will include reviewing selling and post mortem sales reports; assisting in the preparation of documents for the design team to define business needs; visiting stores; and assisting in the collection, analysis and distribution of related reports. To qualify, you will need 2+ years of wholesale experience, preferably in Merchandising /Sales, Production or Planning. Effec- tive PC, analytical and interper- sonal abilities are essential ASSISTANT DESIGNER along with a strong detail- PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT orientation. Excel proficiency is Top belt manufacturer seeking upbeat required; background with Aria fashion forward assistant designer / is helpful. product development person with 2-4 years experience. Photoshop and Illustrator a must. Must be knowledgeable We offer a competitive salary about belt hardware and technical and exceptional benefits that PLANNER specifications. Salary to 50K plus benefits. include medical, dental, Leading ladies suit manufac- Excellent opp with an exciting growing employee wellness and 401(k). turer seeking an individual company. with 3 - 5 years experience Email to [email protected] or Please send resume and salary DESIGN Fax resume and cover letter to requirements to: in retail planning. The ability 212-967-4907. to build large, linked Excel LICENSING COORDINATOR Human Resources, EILEEN FISHER, Provide design direction and mer- Cipriani Accessories Inc., 2 Bridge Street, Irvington, spreadsheets a must. Candidates will have strong chandising for Women’s and Men’s Max Leather NY 10533; fax: (914) 591-8824; licencees including print and color or email: [email protected] analytical skills, the ability to multi-task and fuction inde- design, silhouette and concept ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKER (indicating position title in sub- development. Must have knowl- ject area). Only qualified can- pendently, be a self-starter, Nanette Lepore organized and flexible. edge of international fabric Seeking an individual w/ 2 years AMAZING EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES!!! didates will receive a response. sourcing, technical specs, and experience in the fashion industry. EOE M/F/D/V Email resume to: Responsibilities include: assisting head [email protected] garment construction. Travel a patternmaker, help with yardaging, Retail Stores: must. 5 years experience required. costing, and general design room tasks. • Director of Retail Sales (minimum 5 years experience) Visit us at or fax {212} 221-2708 www.eileenfisher.com Email resume to [email protected] Fax resume: 212-594-0038 or email to • General Manager (minimum 3-5 years experience) [email protected] • Store Managers ASSOCIATE DESIGNER • Assistant Store Managers ANNA SUI • Cashiers 3-5 yrs exp. women’s sportswear. • Sales Associates (FT/PT) Strong creative, conceptual, practical design skills. Tech knowledge of gar- Corporate Offices: ment construction a must. Ability to manage people and multi-task. Illustra- • Data Entry Associates tor, Photoshop. Fax resume and salary • Administrative Assistants requirements to (212) 768-2358 • Store Development Assistant Asst. Designer/Draper Fax or E-mail resumes and references to: Eveningwear Co. seeks Asst. Designer/ 212-925-4440 or [email protected] Draper to supervise sample room, in afast paced environment. Candidate should have excellent understanding of fit, must be able to work with delicate fabrics and keep detailed records. Please forward resumes in confidence: Box # 1043 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001 BELTS - BELTS - BELTS Designers, Product Development We are a premier childrenswear company seeking qualified Production Coordinator, & Sales For Kids, Jrs, Women’s & Men’s individuals for the following Technical Designer positions: Email resume to: [email protected] Candidates sought in wovens, knit and sweater categories. Must have proficiency with detailed flat tech sketches, measuremt pages and production specs. Conduct fittings in BOOKKEEPER a Design driven environment. Track all updates and chan- (ASSISTANT) Leading manufacturer of ladies sports- ges. Req excellent communication skills, 5 years exp. in gar- wear seeks an Assistant Bookkeeper ment construction, measuremts and highly organized. Prof ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE with a min.of 2+ yrs. exp. Must be com- in MS Word & Excel. FRENCH CONNECTION offers the PRODUCTION MANAGER puter literate, well organized, reliable, Tailor Supervisor latest in fashion, fragrance and acces- detail oriented and work well under Sweater applicants must have minimum of 5 years exp as a sories for men and women. We present Ladies sptswr. & outerwr. mfr. pressure. The US Military Academy at the following outstanding opportunity: seeks a detail-oriented indiv. Please fax resume to: 212-268-4920 Tech/Sweater Designer with graphing ability and knitting West Point is recruiting for a full machinery knowledge. Must understand stitch, gauge, to head our prod’n. Candidate time permanent Fabric Worker Senior Account must have strong technical construction and finishing techniques. (Tailor) Supervisor (WS-3105-09) BOOKKEEPER Executive background. Strong leader- Bookkeeper to assist in accts. rec. and Fax resume with cover letter stating position for which you to supervise mfg of dress uniform Weareseeking a highly motivated ship & communication skills pay. Garment experience required. are applying & salary history to: coats and overcoats. Requires ex- individual with an account base consist- a must! Responsibilities in- Aria a+. Knowledge of c/b & collection HR Manager, (212) 465-9556. tensive technical knowledge of ing of major department stores. The can- also a+. Fax resume and salary require- didate must be detail oriented with clude controlling pattern & ments to 212-921-5321. No phone calls will be accepted. EOE tailoring, fitting, quality, sewing, excellent follow through and have a sample process, tracking and pressing operations. Requires successful track record in the fashion prototype thru T.O.P. Must collection business. The ideal candidate significant experience supervising must have three to five (3-5) years of pro- have a minimum of 5 years brothers and sisters employees performing these gressively more responsible experience. Well established, high traffic show- experience Gerber pattern- room seeking sales executives and Leading Fashion Accessories, Footwear, Novelty, Home functions. making knowledge a + Fax resume & salary reqs to the sales assistants with experience in the Products Co. has opportunities available in NYC showroom. Salary $22.94 - 26.77 /hr Director of Human Resources at Please fax resume to: fashion industry. Must be strong and with Federal Emp benefits. 212-302-6839 or e-mail to: (212) 944-2244 aggressive with solid relationships in Sales - Exp. in fashion accessories, footwear, home products, & close- [email protected]. the contemporary women’s market. outs w/following in mass mkt, dept., & specialty stores. Contact (845) 938-3943 for Please reference the following job code Excellent Opportunity!!! Fax resume to: 212-239-1058 Product Mgrs-Production & Development-Hosiery, footwear, apps for Vac Annou # SAE. EOE plush/soft toys, novelties, home products. Work w/ design & sales w/ NEBR04719789, read the understanding of development, production, sourcing, communication annou for complete application Admin Since 1967 Assistant Designer/Girls Dresses BUYER - Assistant requirements found online W-I-N-S-T-O-N Leading girls dress co. is looking for FLIGHT 001, New York’s leading travel w/factories, spec/tech. Exp. domestic & overseas, conception thru an assistant designer. Must be able to retailer is seeking an Asst Buyer. 1 to 2 delivery. www.usajobs.opm.gov APPAREL STAFFING make first patterns and cut. Detail years Fashion buying exp. req’d. Product Select Job Search and enter Fab- DESIGN*SALES*MERCH oriented and team player. Minimum 2 Development exp. a plus. Please E-mail Product/Production Ass’t- Good communication, follow-up, ric Worker or the vac annou #. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION years experience. Fax your resume: resume w/salary history titled “Fashion organizational, computer & admin. skills, detail-oriented. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Linda (212)-967-4915 Buyer” to: [email protected] Graphic Artists-Hosiery, novelties, plush toys, product design, create Cad Designer/ Operator 50K prints. MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop skills. Mac, Photoshop, Illust. exp Software, pointcarre sys. for prints Fax resume: (212) 202-4837 w/ sal. req. Raskin Executive Search Ed Kret Fax: 732-536-4770 Tel: 212-213-6384 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004
CAD/Graphic Designer FASHION CAREERS PATTERNMAKERS PRODUCTION Production Patternmaker Spec Technician Children’s Outerwear Co. seeks highly In Design, Tech Design & Production Childrenswear manufacturer seeks motivated organized, team player. See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com WALTER Assistant skilled patternamkers with knowledge Intimate apparel company seeking Requires strong skills with MAC Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 of MS Excel and Gerber. Develop 1st Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks Illustrator / Photoshop. Portfolio patternmaker with at least 5 yrs. Assistant Spec Technician. Must be pattern through production. Supervise ACCESSORIES familiar with measuring samples and necessary. Competitive salary and FASHION FORWARD sample dept. Fax: 212-239-9339. experience. Must be able to create first benefits. Please fax: (212) 643-1040 pattern from designers sketch. Experi- computer literate and have 3 + years TEXTILE DSNR (home) ...... 60-85K PRODUCTION MANAGER ence in specs, drapings and fittings. exp. Please fax resume to Technical R & D FABRIC (knits) ...... 55-60K Fax resume to: 212-391-2485 Design Director, 212-842-4030. We are DESIGNRS (ass’ts & directors).40-200K Marc by Marc Jacobs seeks Production CASSIS Mgr to oversee production for Accessories. an equal opportunity employer. ADMIN ASSISTANT PRODUCT MGR (mens) ...... 60-75K ANALYSTS/PLANNERS...... 40-60K Must have 4 yrs exp in Accessories pro- Quality Control High end designer fine jewelry firm duction, technical knowledge and over- SaraMax seeks detail oriented person with ADVERTISING (acct. execs)....40-100K Established garment mfr. seeking ex- Many other opportunities available. seas travel exp. Resp include perienced Quality Control person for strong communication and computer communication w/ manufacturers, skills for general office management / New York City production. Candidate "ON THE MARKS" shipment tracking and monitoring must have knowledge of woven & SR. Technical Designer assistant to owner and interaction with entire production process. account base. Call 212-986-7329 knits for pants, skirts, jackets & blous- Growing successful childrenswear Co. or Fax 212-986-7708 es. Must be able to speak English and seeks Spec Tech. Min. 8 yrs. exp. creating Fax resume with salary requirements: Excellent comp/benefits package and 212-354-2933 *PLANNERS (all areas) $45-100K Chinese. Position avail. immediately. specs, garment fittings and grading. (Retail/Wholesale, Merch, Allocation & Analyst) int’l, team-oriented setting w/ career Patternmaking a plus. Excel and PDM FASHION FREELANCE & growth opps. EOE M/F/D/V Excellent comp/benefits package. DESIGN *BUYERS (all levels) $80-120K Fax Resume: (718) 803-0827 a must. Good communication skills PERM OPPORTUNITIES!!! E-mail resume to: with Asian markets essential. Exp. Assistant Design Taylor Hodson, Inc. www.tuttleagency.com [email protected] (Please define which position you’re applying for) RECEPTIONIST/ working with top retailers a plus. Positions available immediately for Please fax resume to: (646) 827-9061 Director Designers, Tech Designers, Sourcing Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn:Ilene Or email: [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CUSTOMER SERVICE Boys/Young menswear co seeks a Coordinators and Production, Design Expanding Co. seeking self motivated, Apparel company seeks hard working talented designer w/ at least 3 years of &Merchandising Assistants. Please detailed oriented individual to purchase person with front office experience for SWEATER PROD’N COORD $75K exp in the boys or young men’s, mid submit resumes to our Fashion Division. piece goods / trims & other related busy NY showroom. tier and mass market. Must have a Fax: (212) 924-1503 Fax resume 516-484-8770 Attn: Jim Better Vertical Retailer/Catalog Co. responsibilities. 3 yrs exp. required. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 great eye for color and managerial abil- E-Mail: [email protected] Please email resume to ity. Extensive knowledge of Photoshop Positions Available [email protected] Receptionist/Data Entry and Illustrator is a must. Junior Sportswear Company seeks Fax resume to: 212-563-5229 Graphic Artist JANE ASHLEY/JEETISH IMPORTS T.D. WESTCHESTER N.Y. $75K Major sleepwear manufacturer seeks PRODUCTION ASSISTANT computer literate individual. Exp. a creative & organized artist with a Major Sportswear company has the must. Pat Exp, PDM. Travel HK 1 Trip Growing apparel importer seeks Fax resume to (212) 719-4644 [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Design Assistant minimum of 2 years experience in following positions available: Production Asst. with min 2 yrs prod women’s/juniors. Must be proficient in Production Asst. experience. Must be detail oriented RECEPTIONIST Illustrator and Photoshop. Candidate should have experience in with excellent computer skills. Work WALTER Wanted for large import company. Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks a E-mail resume to: [email protected] tracking overseas shipments and with samples, specs and designs. or fax 212-768-3167 Experience required. Please fax TECH DESIGNER design assistant with at least 5 yrs. corresponding with suppliers. Must be Fax resume: 516-484-8770 Attn: Bill Ladies dress designer/importer on 7th experience preferred. Must be a team detail oriented and computer resume, attn. Saul Tawil @ (212) 564-9507 Ave seeks a detail-oriented individual player. Great work environment and literate. Production Assistant who can work with Orient vendors in- benefits. Fax resume to: 212-391-2485 Order Entry/Coordinator Leading children’s wear importer Retail Manager dependently. 5 yrs. experience needed An exp’d order entry person who will seeks 2 experienced production assis- with specialty in eveningwear design. also coordinate w/ shipping for order MADISON AVENUE BOUTIQUE Design Associate tants. Responsibilities include daily Currently looking for professionals with Pattern making and clear fit com- Established modern updated Missy processing. Must be highly organized e-mail communication with overseas ments are a must. Prefer computer lit- &detail oriented and is able to moni- retail management experience in luxury sweaters and woven line seeks a crea- factories and all phases of approval brands. Individual must have excellent eracy, including Excel. tive Design Associate with min 3 tor every level of order execution. process. Ideal candidates are team Resume fax to 212-695-1761 Minimum 3 yrs. experience. sales skills, and proficiency in computer years experience in sweaters. Will players with 2 to 3 years experience; applications. Also must be customer service work closely with senior designer. knowledge and understanding of Receptionist/Admin Asst. -oriented and highly organized. Qualified Tech Design Candidate should have strong knowl- GRAPHIC DESIGNER Seeking a person who is enthusiastic garment construction, knit and woven applicants should fax resume: 212-319-6901 edge of sweater knits, creating boards, Candie’s accessories seeks exp creative graphic and has excellent communication & fabrics. Must be detail oriented with Men’s Technical Designer: layouts, computer spec/packages and artist proficient w/ Illustrator & Photoshop. good communication skills, computer RETAIL/WHLSLE RECRUITERS interpersonal skills. Some computer PRIVATE LABEL good sketching necessary. Please fax Resp for creating logos, boards & designs. skills necessary. skills and able to work under pressure. When You Need to See a Specialist resume with salary req: 917-510-9778 Fax resume to Vanessa: {212} 563 3396 Fax resume and salary requirements Wovens, Cut & Ssew Knits, Sweaters, Fax All Resumes To: 212-768-1858 Senior VP/GMM - Womens to: 212-564-5201 Attn CB Tech Dsgnrs - Knits/Wovens Relo Outerwear, Tops and Bottoms. Candidates HOME SEWERS WANTED must be detail-oriented, organized, a CUT-TO-ORDER BUSINESS. E. Coast - So Jersey to $80K Pattern Makers to $100K team player, with strong communication SMALL LOT. WOMEN’S BETTER Production Assistant skills. Must be able to translate garments SPORTSWEAR. MUST SPEAK GOOD Major branded apparel company Planners-Retail/Whlsale Buyer: Off Price & Specialty Str into complete Tech Packs. Follow thru DESIGNER ENGLISH. CALL: (917) 697-2076 Private Label requires production assistant with on all aspects of sample development, Accessories designer needed 2-5+ years experience. Computer and must relo to S. Jersey & N. England Sales Rep - Shoes / Atlanta fit, specs, technical sketches, and pro- in LA. Knows trends, organized, HOT DESIGNER JOBS Merchandiser/Sales communication skills a must. duction. Computer skills a must, with and extremely fast-paced. Int’l textile co. seeks highly exp’d, ag- Fax resume to: 212-239-9873 e:mail : [email protected] •Graphic Designer/Children’s 212-714-0313 FAX 212-714-9394 emphasis on Excel, Word, Illustrator, Seven years top brand experience. gressive, detail oriented, Merchandiser Web PDM, Out Look. Minimum 3 - 4 •Textile Print /Seller for garment prod’n in Far East. Fax Sally Daliege 213.362.2300 •Technical Designer/Bridge years experience. Fax resume with salary Must have strong est’d contacts w/ ap- SALES ASSIST $50K requirements to Attn: Tech Dept at: Fax Resume Attn Cindi 201-894-1186 parel mfrs. Overseas prod’n exp. req’d, PRODUCTION JCP EXPERT EXCELLENT OPPTY! DESIGNER ASST $55K or e-mail [email protected] 917-777-0510 PRIVATE LABEL strong written & verbal comm. skills. FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 212-947-3399 x16 Must be able to implement/follow-up [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS ASSISTANT on overseas prod’n. Min. 10 yrs. exp. Major Women’s Sportswear Company Designer Pls. fax confidential res: (201) 224-6564 SALES ASSISTANT Tech Design IMPORT DESIGN/ seeks bilingual (English/Chinese) High-end eveningwear Co. seeks Cutesy Baby Stuff! individual to communicate with overseas extremely motivated, energetic Sales Women’s Technical Designer: factories. Excellent communication & Assistant with strong organizational & Established NYC accessory company PRODUCTION Sportswear Collection Oriented Junior sportswear Mfg. co. seeks follow-up skills must be organized. follow-up skills. Must be an excellent Wovens, Cut & Sew Knits, Sweaters, seeks a talented graphic artist/designer individual to Assist in all areas of im- Knowledge of garment construction; communicator, team player, self starter for their newborn/infant accessory line. Dresses, Outerwear. Candidates must port division from new Development proficient w/ computers; min 5 years exp. & able to multi-task. Exp. a plus, but have a knowledge of pattern making, be Licensed experience preferred. Email (i.e. sketching on Adobe Illustrator/ Fax resume to {212} 869-9606 willing to train. Send resume and salary resume: Prod. Coordinator/Gen. Asst. detail-oriented, organized, a team player, Tech packs on Microsoft Excel) to req’s to Fax: (212) 869-2206 or with strong communication skills. Must [email protected] receiving, Specing, fitting, and High-end eveningwear co. seeks ex- Email: [email protected] tremely well org., detail oriented indiv. be able to translate design sketches into grading all production samples. Must Production Coord. complete Tech Packs with 1st proto Designer have strong follow through, technical, to coordinate all facets of prod’n. & run Fast growing, high end women’s RTW sample room. Gen. knowledge of cloth- SALES ASSISTANT specs. Follow thru on all aspects of Est. Girl’s 4-16 sportswear co. seeks and Computer skills. Must be a co. seeks exp’d & very org. prod’n indiv. Multiline showroom seeks highly sample development, Conduct fittings, highly motivated, creative & detail ori- self- starter w/ 5 years Experience in ing const. a must. Must be an excellent w/min5yrsexp. Must beadetail- communicator & able to multi-task. motivated SALES ASSISTANT to join send comments and corrections, graded ented indiv for Jr. driven knit/denim import market. Please fax all resumes oriented, team player. Resp: incl.: our team. Candidate must be aggres- specs, and technical sketches from 1st line. Min. 5 yrs import exp. a must, to: (212)764-0352 Exp. a plus, but willing to train. Must track & follow up prod’n schedules, be able to deal w/stores, handle clients. sive, independent, an excellent multi- proto to production. Computer skills a strong MAC skills req’d. E-mail res. budget & fabric ordering, measure / tasker, flexible and able to work in a must, with emphasis on Excel, Word, w/sal. req.: [email protected] Import traffic $35-$45K. Current exp. in track- Send resume/sal. req. to: 212-869-2206 spec garments, oversee prod’n w/ local ing shipments from vendors to warehouse. or E-mail: [email protected] hectic environment. Fax resume to: Illustrator, Web PDM, Out Look. 3-4 years factories. Able to create Excel spread- 212.997.7778 Attn: Joey or email minimum experience. Fax resume with Deal w/ customer brokers, delivery orders, etc. sheets, solve retailer compliance is- DESIGNER/ Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy [email protected] salary requirements to Att: Tech Dept. at: sues & liaise w/ sales, design, pattern 917-777-0510 MERCHANDISER JOBS JOBS JOBS makers & factories a must. Also resp. *Allocator for coord. shipping & quality control. SAMPLECUTTER MISTY HARBOR Resume: [email protected] Ladies eveningwear showroom seeks Nat’l/brand ladies outerwear seeks exp’d *Artists - Boy - Young Men- Girl- JR PRODUCT DEVELOPERS *Assist or assoc dsgnr yg miss/knit/woven samplecutter to cut fine fabrics and TECHNICAL DESIGN individual to take brand to next level. Mgr 1st Sample. Moderate Sportswear...... $65K chiffon. Knowledge in grading a plus. Individual must be highly organized, *Assoc designer jr knit/wvn-tech-graphic Coord Pvt Label. Vertical Retail...... $45K PRODUCTION have initiative & be independent. Must *CAD Artists: Experienced or Entry Level Please call Rachel @ (212) 398-2271 ASSISTANT [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 COORDINATOR ASSISTANT Immediate opening for established have excellent sense of color & style, *Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl Womens Apparel Co. seeking exp’d. be well versed in all areas of line devel- *Director Quality Control-imports-kids SAMPLEMAKER private label company. Qualified (min.3 years) detail oriented person to candidates must have knowledge of opment, an ability to spot trends, know *Entry Levels: Data Entry - Clericals assist with all aspects of production Mid Westchester location - uniform mfr - -ledge of Illustrator, Photoshop & strong *Product coord liaison bet design&prodctn Cintas needs samplemaker. Able to specs, construction, grading, follow up. Must have good communica- patternmaking and fit evaluation. technical skills. Salary commensurate *Production Coord. - Bilingual Chinese tion and computer skills. Please Fax sew presentation quality samples, with track record. All benefits. Outstand- *Production: Mgrs & Coords & Assists PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & DESIGN make alterations on existing garments Must be highly organized, detail resume including salary history to oriented with excellent follow up ing opportunity for the right candidate. *Sales N-I-T Kids Branded-Mid Tier $$ S. Pitkin @ 212-382-2421 & cut samples. Call 914-347-3400 x 211 Please e-mail salary req’s to: *Spec Techs: Knits or Wovens skills. Interface with customer tech BAGS dept and factories. Knowledge of excel [email protected] *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel Weare seeking a unique person with Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) required. experience, integrity and take charge SEAMSTRESS Please fax resume including salary Designer personality, in the manufacturing process Production Coordinator P/T Permanent. Experienced. Excel- requirements to JF: 212 306 1856 or Moderate, national brand seeking KARIN’S GARDEN of cosmetic bags, backpacks, tote bags, lent machine and hand sewing skills a email: [email protected] designer for junior, teens, tweens and etc. We sell to the low priced discount Follow up with production, work with COO/GM (Redmond, WA) designs and communicate with over- must. Will train to make curtains. contemporary swimwear. Freelance or Lead operations, inventory mgmt., trade, private label, fragrance and cos- Good English and Math. Call Susan: full time. Fax resume and salary metic industry. Must be aware of the seas offices. Must be detail oriented financial strategy, and HR for this and have 3-5 yrs exp in far east produc- 212-629-6127 history to 212-840-4152. high-end successful women’s accessory fashion bag market trends, through magazines and shopping retail. Should tion. Room in growth. Technical Designer company selling trendy and classic Fax resume to: 212-279-9888 DESIGNERS hand-made accessories to Nordstrom have a pulse on European trends as Immediate opening for private label and boutique stores worldwide. well. Will work directly with China fac- SENIOR BUYER sportswear co. Must have 2 years expe- FREELANCE/COCKTAIL tories to establish the most competitive Boca Raton, Florida based women’s rience, knowledge of construct, specs, Major designer eveningwear label Qualifications: 5-10+ years of similar level experience in an entrepreneurial pricing. You should be able to negotiate PRODUCTION fashion apparel catalog company; grading, patterns. Interface w/ custom- developing its cocktail dress category. for the best prices. Heavy e-mailing to BOSTON PROPER is searching for a ers, tech departments & factories. Seeks Freelance Designers with an exp’d setting; Strong project management COORDINATOR and team leadership with 20+ employees; factories and speaking directly to facto- highly talented, experienced merchant. Good organizational skills & proficient eye for fresh & exciting concepts. Must ries to get your ideas across. Must have Private lavel manufacturer of better This is an exciting opportunity for a in Excel. Excellent benefits package. have current portfolio w/ trim & embel- Financial planning/inventory/computer women’s sportswear seeks individual skills; Consumer retail industry exp. extensive knowledge of bag construction, special person who has a successful For consideration please fax resume lishment detail req’d for interview. different material selections and cost to follow through on all details from track record selecting and developing including salary requirements to: Pls. forward resumes in confidence: and relationships with major industry product development through produc- buyers and suppliers preferred. differences, bag specifications, etc. You women’s ready-to-wear product classifications, 212-730-5159 Box # 1042 should know how to develop a product tion to shipping. Min 2 yrs experience including apparel and accessories. If 7 West 34th Street, NY 10001 Please send resume to: communicating w/ overseas suppliers [email protected] to fit a budget. Must be extremely organ- you also have strategic experience ized, detail oriented and have excellent and domestic retailers. Computer developing brand appropriate fashion, DESIGNERS, TECH DESIGNERS • MERCHANDISER - Seeking organized communication and project management skills essential. monitoring sales results and maximizing Production, Sourcing, Buyers & detail oriented to handle overseas skills. Need to have a handle on numerous Fax resume: 212-268-3654 potential opportunities, AND you Planners, hundreds of jobs! vendors for Production & Fit Approvals. projects running at the same time. Will would like to work in a creative Contact [email protected] • IMPORT & ACCOUNTS - Seeking work with a small staff to help assist in environment with other talented, Design/Production Asst. smart organized to handle banking, designing, organization of outstanding PRODUCTION enthusiastic people then you need to The Donna Karan Company LLC factoring and shipping projects, timelines, new projects, pre- email, fax or write to us today. To be EUGENIA KIM HATS E-Mail: [email protected] production, production samples, etc. PATTERNMAKER considered please have at least 8 years has an exciting opportunity for a Will develop working relationships direct- A $60 million company specializing in fashion buying experience with 2 or Spec Technician in its Womens Detail-oriented, creative individ need- more in the catalog industry. ed to manage production and design in Office Assistant ly with sales staff and customers. Must knit-related separates seeks a DKNY division. afast-paced environ. Must have 1-2 Women’s high-end fashion house seeks be a team player and be able to leave Production Patternmaker to work in Send your resume and salary yrs. production and sourcing exp. entry-level office assistant. Position your "ego" at the door. Knowledge of our NYC office. Ideal candidate must requirements in confidence to: In this role you will spec all Millinery cut-and-sew prod exp a requires excellent organizational skills, drawing and preparing bag specifications have at least 5+ yrs of exp in all types Boston Proper MAJOR plus. Fax: 212-674-1769 advanced proficiency in Word, Excel & for factories. Excel, Adobe Photoshop of knits/wovens from children to large Human Resource Department original and counter samples, Outlook, ability to multi-task, take &Illustrator. Laid back atmosphere. sizes. Pay is commensurate w/ exp. 6500 Park of Commerce Blvd. attend all fittings and note techni- initiative and be self-motivated. Duties All replies held in strict confidence. E-mail Send resumes & salary requ’s to Dora: Boca Raton, FL 33487 cal changes for styles. Ideal include inventory control, rendering your resume with salary history to: Fax: {718} 625-2244 Email at [email protected] reports, heavy phones, filing and other [email protected] Email: [email protected] Fax: 561-997-6568 EOE candidate will have 5-7 yrs admin. tasks. Room to grow. BOSTON PROPER technical exp and work well under Please fax resume to: 212-319-6901 pressure. DMM & Buyer for Women’s Accessories PRODUCTION Fast track Women’s Specialty Chain Product Development SHIPPING & TRAFFIC To apply, send resume with salary needs Merchant Pros. Upscale experience PATTERNMAKER Major NY Eyewear Co. PATTERNMAKER required. Please send your resume to: Nanette Lepore Responsibilities incl: mkt research, Moderate sportswear/ jacket manufac- COORDINATOR requirements to: [email protected] Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeking merchandising, color & line devel. turer seeks motivated, highly-skilled NYC based garment company seeks [email protected] DSNR - LAYETTE N/I OPEN$ highly exp’d Production Patternmaker. Must have 3 yrs exp, be able to patternmaker to join our production person to allocate, track and interface or fax to 212-768-5937. Est’d co seeks exp’d creative individ Experience in pants and jackets a plus. generate fresh ideas, multi-task, be team. Candidate should be an w/multi pick & pack warehouses. Must for P/L baby playwear. 5-10 years experience a MUST. Salary ateam player & possess strong excellent draper with a complete be computer literate. Must have at commensurate with experience. communication skills. Pls e-mail knowledge of pants, skirts and fully- least 5 yrs exp. We will only contact those applicants A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Fax resume to: 212-594-0038 or email resumes w/salary req’s to: lined constructed garments. Plz email resumes to [email protected] selected for further consideration. 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 [email protected] [email protected] Fax resume to (212) 730-2531 or fax to {212} 398-0032. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 24, 2004 19
Technical Designer Epilogue SALES (Sportswear) Div. of Rhapsody Clothing Co. New fast growing division of established - Juniors Established junior dress & spts. mfg. company seeks energetic salesperson seeks exp’d sales pro for our NY show- to sell moderate priced private label Patternmaker room. Must have strong dept. store women’s sportswear to discounters, relationships. Fax resume: 213-614-8886 mass merchants and specialty stores. - Juniors Send resume to: [email protected] Missy and Junior Swimwear JOIN OUR TEAM!! Independent Contractors Needed Donnkenny Apparel is looking for a If you have the energy & determina- Production Patternmaker and Techni- tion to succeed, we are interested in Established branded swimwear cal Designer for its Juniors Division. you!! We are a dynamic, aggressive, Seeks Acct Exec. for dept & specialty stores. Must have 3 yrs exp. company is seeking independent and well est’d off price distributor of contractor road reps to manage Highly skilled patternmaker needed to ladies’ and men’s brand name apparel, Fax resume & salary requirements to develop first through production who is expanding our sales force. This (212) 941-0114 and grow existing territories. patterns with minimum 5 years’ experi- is a great opportunity for the right per- Current account base already ence in cut and sew knits. Ability to son!! Newly constructed offices located SHOWROOM SALES direct sewers in proper fit of develop- in the heart of the garment center. NY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d exists. Should have 3-5 years of ment and production samples. 401K/Medical/Opportunity to travel. salesperson with Dept. & Specialty apparel or swimwear sales Must have worked in the Junior knit Please fax resume to: 212-944-3137 stores to bring in new business. experience. top market and have knowledge of Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 Lectra/Gerber. Fax cover letter and resume to: OCEANFRONT 262-675-2998 Technical Designer needed with heavy US Sales Executive background in Juniors. This position PROPERTIES New premium jeans co. seeks extreme- will assure that production samples The oldest swimwear company in ly motivated sales executive with track meet all required design specs. America just opened a new Junior/ record of success to launch new collec- HOSIERY Responsibilities include communicat- Contemporary division and is looking tion. This is an amazing opportunity Men’s and Women’s Hosiery Co. seeks ing with vendors, conducting fittings, for Sales Reps in the following territories: considering our management history Sales Reps for Brand and Designer working closely with design/ produc- - Southeast, FL based - West, CA based (at Paper Denim & Cloth). Must have names with established Dept. & Chain tion, preparing detailed comments for - Southwest, TX based strong specialty store following and a store contacts. All territories.Please Fax vendors. Minimum 5 years’ experi- Please forward resumes to: minimum of 2 yrs experience. Please or E-mail resume to: ence with a strong knowledge of cut E-mail: [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] 212-730-1186 / [email protected] and sew knits and proper Junior fit. or Fax: (212) 575-1955 Attn: Lori Jacobs Proficiency in preparing spreadsheets in Excel required and knowledge of VP SALES Independent Sales Reps AS400 preferred. 40M Apparel Mfr. seeks experienced Nationally branded urban sportswear Private Label Sales leader to run Sales Organization Large vertical Canadian cut/sew knit mfg. launching both backpack category In return, we will offer a competitive servicing Majors. Must have great and future accessories. Must have salary and benefits package. For garment mfg. with NY office seeking relationships and contacts. 200K + both inside sales person and independ- relationships with Mass and Mid Tier. consideration, please send your bonus. Confidentiality Assured. ALL TERRITORIES OPEN! resume and salary requirements to: ent sales reps. Must have contacts Fax 732-280-6190 [email protected] with catalogs, specialty stores and Call: (609) 707-1975 or Human Resources, DONNKENNY, Fax: (856) 429-6453 1411 Broadway, New York, NY 10018; branded markets. fax: (212)790-3910; or email: Fax resume to 212-382-2147 [email protected]. SWIMWEAR EOE M/F/D/V SALES EXECUTIVE Est’d. Co. (40+ years in business) seeks Sales Reps to sell popular priced Lge BLOUSES/SEPARATES Size Constructed, Missy Constructed, and DONNKENNY Major tops importer is seeking exp. BOUTIQUE SALES Jr./Contemporary Separates to Specialty salesperson only with strong contacts to Busy W. Village shops need manage- Stores/Chains, Mail Order Catalogs, etc. Women’s Sportswear grow business. We offer an excellent ment / sales pros. Min. 3 yrs. retail exp. Must have current following. Other lines salary & benefits in a friendly wkg environ. Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 ok. Fax to HR Dept. at: 212-730-8452 Director of Design Fax resume: {212}768-7973 Consultant Da-Nang - Joe’s - Follies Women’s Belt Mfr. Private label manufacturer is seeking SALES EXECUTIVE Looking for 3 specialists to run better Classic with a twist, moderate in price, strong Director of Design Consultant Est’d junior accessory company seeks contemporary specialty store sales. uncompromising in quality. Looking for Women’s Sportswear. Good experi- aggressive / exp’d Sales Exec for NY 3-5 years experience selling similar for strong sales pro. Territories open. ence required. Please fax resume to: showroom. 2-3 years exp. & strong lines is a must. Please e-mail resumes: Fax resume 239-403-8058 or 201-867-4042 est’d Contacts w/ specialty stores, dept. [email protected] Call Kathi Kilburn 1-866-kk-belts stores and/or mass merchants a must. Excl. opportunity for go getter, great JAY KOS commissions and benefits. If you want We are a high-end men’s haberdashery to work in a fun fast moving environ- looking for the right person to join our ment then Fax resume: (212) 683-3558 team. Custom suit knowledge is a plus. Please fax resume and cover letters to: Sales Executive (212) 319-4074 or Email: [email protected] Exclusive Children’s Group is seeking adynamic and enthusiastic Sales Executive for its NY show room to maintain and develop accounts. The Westfield, NJ SALES & MARKETING EXECUTIVE candidate must be an excellent com- F/T & P/T positions for new, upscale $40 million in sales. Licensing exp. municator with strong organizational resort clothing store. Management & Contemp./Bridge/Better Mkts. Majors and follow-up skills. Computer literate Sales Associate positions available. Great & Specialty exp. Expertise in financial a must. Great Benefits package. advancement opportunity, wages, bonus, brand mgmt. Call: (732) 899-7639 Pony Apparel U.S. Territory Sales Please fax resume to: 212-564-4536 or and benefits package. Retail experience E-mail: gjf @prodigy.net Representatives e-mail at: [email protected]. helpful. Fax info to: 732-774-8707 SALES ASSISTANT Leading ladies suit manufacturer Global Brand Marketing Inc., owner of Pony, Dry-shoD and seeking an energetic & motivated global footwear licensee of Diesel, XOXO, Mecca and individual with 1-3 years experience Nautica is seeking exclusive, experienced, and proven sales to assist Sales Department and executives to represent our newest Pony fashion sports follow-up with major accounts. apparel products, in the men’s, women’s and accessories Qualified candidates must have categories. Qualified applicants must have well established strong organizational skills, be relationships with specialty, athletic, and department stores. Open territories include: Southern California (based in the SALES EXECUTIVES detail-oriented and a team player. Exciting NEW opportunity: Candie’s Excel required, Photoshop & Los Angeles area) and Northern California (based in the Bay area). accessories/handbags seeks experienced Word Application a plus. sales executives min 5 years experience Please submit resume and salary history to: w/major department stores and mid Email resume to: tier. Must be self starter, motivated and [email protected] GBMI, 6500 Hollister Ave., Santa Barbara, CA 93117 organized. Significant earning potential Attn: HR FAX: (805) 562-5620 E-Mail: [email protected] and all accounts open. Very competitive or fax: {212} 221-2708 salary & commission and excellent benefits. Fax resume to Michael: {212} 563 3396 SALES MANAGER DIVISION- Domestic woven mill is looking for SALES MANAGER east coast sales manager based in NY area w/ 15+ yrs exp . Social/bridal/ Powerful, major urban drapery contacts a +. Send resume to: sportswear vendor offers a Box#M 1040 great opportunity. Must have c/o Fairchild Publications contacts & fluency with urban 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl retailers including national & New York, NY 10001 regional dept. stores & specialty chains. Expertise required with planning, line & Sales Manager assortment merchandising, WALTER analysis, admin., & sales Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks sales manager with at least 5 yrs. team management. Excellent experience. Must be a team player. compensation package com- Compensation based on exp. mensurate with experience. Fax resume to: 212-391-2485 Resumes to: [email protected] Sales NANETTE LEPORE Seeking full time sales executive to Accessory/Gift Division work in new LOS ANGELES corporate Seeking energetic, motivated Sales Pros showroom. 1 to 2 yrs sales experience for our Accessory & Gift Division to in designer/ contemporary market a must. grow business. Must have 5-10 years Fax resume: 212-764-8796 experience, successful sales record, and strong account contacts. Cosmetic indus- try relationships a plus. Fax resume to: 201-943-8195 Sales Professional Trend setting junior apparel co. seeks innovative, aggressive, experienced sales Account Executives pro. Must have established relationships Caractere, an Italian bridge fashion with mass market accounts. No better brand & Elena Miro an Italian bridge opportunity for the right candidate. Great plus fashion brand, seeks highly moti- environment, great people, great future! vated Sales Executives w/ strong retail Please fax resume attn. Steve at: relationships. Fax resume: (212) 398-3819 (212) 244-8487 WelcomeTomorrow to
where fashion and technology converge
WWDTech In Depth Section II: May 12, 2004 Close: April 28
Creativity comes in many forms. This section will provide retailers and manufacturers with new ways to stand out in a crowded field by giving them the knowledge they need to run their businesses better and the latest ideas on how to reach customers with the right product at the right time.
CIOs and CEOs who control information technology spending in the apparel and beauty industries will turn to the information in this section to help increase their bottom line.
For more information, please contact Tia Potter, Director, Technology & Financial Services, at 212-630-4844, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide®