Press Release La Barroche Vintage 2005 Part 2
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Revue de Presse / Press Release Millésime / Vintage 2005 Robert Parker’s wine advocate Jeb Dunnuck February 2015 PRESSPRESS Robert Parker November 2009 Two meals in two weeks from Veritas’ new chef, Grégory Pugin, who studied under Joël Robuchon, proved once again that as good as the food has been at this restaurant since it first opened, it is at a new high level of quality under Pugin. As one of the guests said, even though Veritas is likely to only get three stars from the New York Times’ restaurant reviewer, the cuisine is four stars all the way. …….. Trying to put them in a sequence where comparisons are clearly odious at this level of quality, the 2005 Pure deserved its name as it was a gorgeously pristine expression of old vine Grenache. It was singing with licorice and kirsch in a full-bodied, opulent, seamless style. I’m not sure how long this wine will last, but for drinking over the next decade, it is loaded. ……. In any event, foodies need to check out Veritas, whose wine list may be the finest in the world. Now, they have a 29-year old chef whose skills are already formidable. Moreover, his humility and passion for his craft surpass that of his two brilliant predecessors at Veritas, most notably Scott Bryan. PRESSPRESS Robert Parker November 2008 If one wants to be guaranteed as creative and delicious French cuisine as possible, you can’t go wrong ea- ting at any of Joël Robuchon’s restaurants, whether in Macau, Tokyo, Paris, London, Monaco, Hong Kong, New York, or Las Vegas. I don’t know of anyone who would disagree that he is the greatest modern day French chef, and his ability to train apprentices to run his kitchens is extraordinary. At his London L’Atelier, we went with a tasting menu with different glasses of wine. The highlights included the Henriot 2002 Champagne Rosé, the Zind-Humbrecht 2005 Riesling Herrenweg, the Emmerich Knoll 2006 Grüner Veltli- ner Smaragd Loibenberg, and the sumptuous Domaine du Barroche 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Pu- re , a 100% old vine Grenache. The 2003 Bergerac Sec from David Foto was creamy, very oaky, and so- mewhat overdone. The Lucien Aviet Arbois 2004 Pinot Noir, while undoubtedly a curiosity, was thin, ema- ciated, and uninteresting, a Pinot Noir for masochists rather than hedonists. Every food course was extraordinary. The emulsion of foie gras was to die for, and one would think a sim- ple dish of asparagus and morels prepared in a wonderful reduced sauce would not be a match for the foie gras, but it was exceptional. The langoustines and crayfish were incredible, the broad bean velouté was a sublime effort for such a simple dish, and the sea bass with mushrooms tinged with coriander was fabulous. We finished with a rib of veal accompanied by Robuchon’s renowned, unbelievable buttery mas- hed potatoes. The food service was impeccable, the wine service brilliant, and the entire evening was a celebration of great cuisine matched with intriguing wines. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 13-15 West Street, WC2H 9NE, London, England Tel. +44 (0) 20.7010.8600 Food: Course 1: Emulsion of foie gras Course 2: Asparagus with morels Course 3: Langoustines and crayfish Course 4: Broad bean velouté Course 5: Sea bass with mushrooms and coriander sauce Course 6: Rib of veal Course 7: Robuchon’s extraordinary Sugar Sphere filled with creamy fruits PRESSPRESS Robert Parker Decembre 2008 Even given the global economic crisis, Bar Boulud is teeming with diners coming and going, enjoying what is probably the country’s finest assortment of charcuterie, terrines and patés. Not to be missed, however, is the bistro menu, with gorgeous dishes like coq au vin, beef cheeks, and on this occasion, we had a small dish with some black truffles. It is a very casual place, and a beautiful setting across from Lincoln Center in New York City. I can’t recommend it highly enough. The brilliant sommelier and wine importer, Daniel Johnnes, looks after a wine list that is a treasure trove of gorgeous wines and sensational bargains from the Rhône and Burgundy. ... With this food, Rhône wines seem even better than Burgundy. We had four magnums of 2005 Château- neuf du Pape, as that vintage was the theme. The perfection of the Barroche 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Pure has been well-acknowledged by me. It is an amazing expression of old-vine Grenache from sandy soils – unadulterated, unmanipulated, and exquisite in every sense. I am not a big believer in aging this wine for more than another ten years, as I don’t see how it can get any better than it is at present. ... Bar Boulud 1900 Broadway (between 63rd and 64th) New York, NY Tel. (212) 595-0303 Food: Assorted Charcuterie, Terrines and Patés, Coq au Vin, Beef Cheeks PRESSPRESS 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blind Tasting, July 14, 2009 With the current widespread hoopla that surrounds the 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Papes, one tends to forget about recent vintages from this region that were merely great. The 2005 vintage serves as a perfect example. Perhaps the ultimate testament to the high quality of 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the sheer number of producers who made first-rate wine. In our opinion, the high scores and more importantly, the extrava- gant praise the top wines garnered from wine critics is fully justified by what we’ve tasted. Quite simply, we love the vintage. Concentrated, complex, ripe, spicy, balanced, and built for the long haul, the best 2005 CdPs can be thrilling wines. On Bastille Day this summer, EWS put the vintage to the test, offering a blind tasting of 13 of the most coveted 2005s for the scrutiny and evaluation of the tough New York crowd. In general, the wines read the script and this was certainly a successful, enjoyable tasting. Sure, we had a few disappointments. But any negative feelings were more than offset by spectacular performances by the top wines. In particular, our winning win e, 2005 Domaine La Barroche “Fiancée ” was a revela- tion! And, while most of the 2005 CdPs tasted were already delicious, we strongly suspect that they will improve with time. This is definitely a “two thumbs up” vintage. The following are consensus tasting notes, written to share commentary, descriptors, and convey the ove- rall impression the group had for each wine. Wines were poured in three flights from numbered bags (1 - 13) and are listed below in the order they were poured. Participants were asked to vote (by number) for their three favorite wines. We award three points for every first place vote, two for every second place vote, and one point for every third, allowing for ties. Data is based on 34 voters. Price listed represents approximate retail. Wines were double decanted at least two hours before being tasted. Voting tallies: 1st/2nd/3rd Domaine La Barroche “Fiancée” - $70 - 54 points (5/14/11) - 96 rating Fairly deep color. Attractive, modern, spicy, open blueberry and licorice nose. But it is on the palate that we get truly excited by this wine. This is a rich, deep, mysterious, masculine, “Heart of Darkness” CdP with wonderful minty, dark earth, spice, and pepper. It’s “old school,” with noticeable tannins and lively acidi- ty. Above all, the finish is amazingly long, consistent, and delicious. Everyone in the room is in awe. Needs at least three years to round out. Still, this is one Fiancée we ’d love to be engaged to! PRESSPRESS 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blind Tasting, July 14, 2009 See all the article on : http://www.erobertparker.com/members/ews/ews159.asp PRESSPRESS Robert Parker August 15th 2010 Southern Rhône’s most influential and talented oenologist was on a tour of the East Coast, and since I have come to know him well over my many visits, in addition to my enormous respect for him, I invited him for dinner. ……. Lastly, I cannot forget the utter perfection of Domaine Barroche 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Pure , from magnum, no less. This is an exquisite wine, and the last magnum I had. Of course, it is probably 8-10 years away from full maturity, but I don’t have any regrets serving it or drinking it. It is an extraordinary wine, so why wait? It may not wait for you. …….. PRESSPRESS Niel Martin Decembre 2010 The wines of 2010 Well, another twelve pages of the calendar have passed, during which a tidal wave of fermented grape juice in all its kaleidoscopic manifestations (white, red, rosé and corked) has broken over the breakwater of my grateful, and occasionally insulted, palate. Some 150 articles have embraced everything from am- phora-aged Croatian sweet wines to 18th century Madeira via German dry Riesling and prima donna First Growths. As usual, the year commenced with a comprehensive examination at some 700+ wines from the Burgundy 2008 vintage, surely destined to be over-shadowed by the hyperbole currently fomenting over the 2009s. I have read one or two comments dismissing the 2008 vintage but trust me: they will be proved wrong. I concur with David Schildknecht who entitled his Burgundy 2008 report “A Small Miracle” for there is a cluster of lip-smacking, crisp, fresh, almost effervescent wines, many of which may translate the nuances of terroir more adroitly than the more fruit-driven 2009s. ... Rhône/S. France ... Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Pure” 2005 – Domaine la Barroche ... Niel Martin July 2010 Janelle Monáe – The ArchAndroid “The ArchAndroid” might well be the most musically ambitious album of the last decade. This is the kind of mind-boggling album that forces me to readjust my musical parameters.