BLACK FRIDAY SCORECARD: A GAMUT OF GAINS/10-12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • November 28, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Present Tense NEW YORK — You can love it or hate it, but you can’t get around it. Holiday shopping, that is, and you have fewer than four weeks left to get it done. Here, a few items that are sure to please even the most finicky. For more on gift-giving, see pages 6 and 7.

Clockwise from top left: chocolates from La Maison du Chocolat at Bergdorf Goodman, $6 and $17; Tiffany & Co.’s 18k gold bangle, $3,950; Valentino’s leather gloves, $435 at Bergdorf Goodman; Dyptique’s candle, $80 for three at Bergdorf Goodman; Hermès’ silk scarf, $320 at Bergdorf Goodman; Henri Bendel’s snow globe, $48; Sutton Studio’s cashmere scarf, $98 at Bloomingdale’s; Monica Rich Kosann’s frame, $295 at Bergdorf Goodman; Tiffany & Co.’s 18-karat gold necklace, $2,850, and at Bergdorf Goodman, an ornament, $30, and Jar Parfums’ perfume, $765. Terry Lundgren’s Macro/Micro Game Plan for Federated By David Moin national Macy’s chain. interview he will “sort through all of NEW YORK — Terry Lundgren wants Lundgren, chairman and chief our options’’ before making a to get the right products to the right decision on the future of May’s Lord ICSC Preview. Section II. locations, buff up stores and focus & Taylor division and defended the on marketing as his Federated team executive officer of Federated conversion of Chicago’s venerable remakes May stores to create a Department Stores, said in an See Lundgren’s, Page 8 PHOTO BY ROBERT ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT AND SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY MITRA; 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 WWD.COM New Additions to the Armani Family MILAN — Two new stars are shining in Giorgio WWDMONDAY Armani’s constellation of products: a deluxe watch Armani’s Borgo 21. Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear called Borgo 21 and Armani Baby, a clothing and accessories line for infants to three-year-olds. FASHION When designing Borgo 21, which belongs to the The commercial side of the holiday season tends to split people into two expanding Armani Privè collection, Armani tested 6 camps: those who adore all forms of shopping and those who don’t. the prototype repeatedly, at times on his wrist under his shirt. That’s because the designer, who advocates design and practicality in equal manner, wanted a GENERAL timepiece that was as elegant as it was unobtrusive. Terry Lundgren wants to get the right products to the right locations, buff “I wanted the feel and look of the watch to be 1 up stores and focus on marketing to create a national Macy’s chain. smooth and fluid, with as few protrusions and Add two stars to Giorgio Armani’s constellation of products: a deluxe sharp edges as possible,” Armani said. “Much watch called Borgo 21 and Armani Baby, a clothing and accessories line. attention was given to the ergonomics of the watch, 2 the ultimate objective being that it [fit to] the EYE: Breaking bread with French chef Hélène Darroze about her unusual shape of the wrist." 4 new cookbook, “No One Will Steal What I Have Danced.” Borgo 21, named after Armani’s historic They offered discounts and got plenty of customers shopping. Yet retailers, Milanese headquarters on Via Borgonuovo 21, is 8 while optimistic, expressed uncertainties about the rest of this holiday season. the brand’s first step into the luxury watch market. Starting Dec. 15, it will be distrib- ICSC Preview, a Section II, is included in this issue. uted to select Giorgio Armani boutiques Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 worldwide and fine jewelry stores. An To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is online pre-order service will also be [email protected], using the individual’s name. available to secure the $9,600 time- piece for men and women. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Customers can choose between a yel- VOLUME 190, NO. 113. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one low or white gold case, beige or black additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional dials and matching brown alligator issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. straps or shiny black lizard ones. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Made in Switzerland by Antima, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice a watchmaker founded in 1919, President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Borgo 21 features an automatic Several items from the new Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. movement. Armani Baby line. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: On the baby front, mothers DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box who splurge at Armani may 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE now extend the habit to their INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as newborns and infants. printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one Slated to bow in spring year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, 2006, Armani Baby, which business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For is produced in-house, will permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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TUESDAY: The Conference Board releases the Consumer Confidence Index for November. Chico’s and Gottschalks report third-quarter sales and earnings.

WEDNESDAY: The Federal Reserve Board releases the Beige Book report on economic activity. be available at 300 sales points in 32 countries. The Dress Barn reports first-quarter sales and earnings. lineup complements the Armani Junior collection Tiffany & Co. reports third-quarter sales and earnings. and includes rompers, tops, bottoms, toys and cot linens crafted with washed denim, cashmere, cotton THURSDAY: Hong Kong International Jewelry and linen, especially treated with washes and dyes Manufacturers Exhibition (through Sunday). that make them ultrasoft and comfortable. Retail Gildan Activewear reports fourth-quarter and year- prices range from $53 for T-shirts to $77 for jeans. end sales and earnings. — Alessandra Ilari Kellwood Co. and Movado Group report third-quar- ter sales and earnings.

FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the Judge Orders Pinault to Pay Fine COMING THIS WEEK November employment report. PARIS — A U.S. judge has or- Executive Life affair. tle, and after a three-month dered French billionaire Pinault, who controls French trial, he was cleared personally François Pinault to pay almost diversified retailer PPR, which of any wrongdoing. $190 million plus interest to the owns Gucci Group, is said to But Pinault’s family invest- In Brief California insurance commis- have long ago set aside sufficient ment firm, Artemis, was found sioner in what is ostensibly the funds in case of an unfavorable guilty of conspiracy and told to ● AID PACKAGE: Dickson Poon has come to the rescue of S.T. last chapter of the drawn-out judgment. Sources said the deci- pay $700 million in punitive dam- Dupont. The embattled French luxury house, known for its lighters sion by U.S. District Court Judge ages. Matz dropped that fine in and pens, last Thursday said Poon, the company’s majority share- Howard Matz is likely to bring to October. Sources said Pinault holder, had agreed in principal to a 42 million euro capital infu- an end Pinault’s legal battle with could contest interest payments sion. “This important agreement gives S.T. Dupont the means nec- the California insurance com- and how they should be calculat- essary to continue its turnaround and its development,” said Marc missioner. Pinault’s involvement ed. The judge said interest should Lelandais, the company’s president. Trading of S.T. Dupont was in the Executive Life scandal be calculated by the involved par- suspended on the Paris Bourse on Oct. 24 after the house warned dates to his purchase of the ties no later than Wednesday. investors of a sizeable downturn in full-year profits. failed insurer from French bank Pinault already paid $185 Credit Lyonnais and then his million to the court as part of a ● WEB REPUBLIC: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, one of sale of its junk bond portfolio at settlement in 2003. In a state- the most active luxury groups in China, last week launched a a huge profit. ment, Artemis said that money Chinese version of its corporate Web site. The 100-page site, in In February, the French gov- would be allocated to the fine, simplified Chinese, presents each of its companies and brands, ernment reached a deal for adding that the sale of Executive along with news and “magazine” sections. There are also links to Credit Lyonnais to pay $600 mil- Life to Swiss Re for $240 million LVMH sites in English for more detailed information for in- lion to settle its involvement in would add to its balance. vestors. The address is lvmh.com.cn. the case. Pinault refused to set- — Robert Murphy WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 3 WWD.COM House of Lacroix: New Owners Generate New Spirit By Miles Socha PARIS — “I realized this week I’m crazy about fashion,” Christian Lacroix declared with one of his big, infectious smiles. While that might not sound like a revelation, coming from one of the world’s most celebrated couturiers, it reflects a sea change in attitude at his house, which 10 months ago was bought by Florida-based travel retail firm Falic Group. After 18 years under LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ownership, the last few particularly disquieting, Lacroix said things are going well with his new parent and that he feels energized and inspired anew. “It’s a totally new culture,” the designer said this month over coffee at the Bristol hotel here. “At last, we have some chemistry with people who are on the same wavelength.” In a wide-ranging interview, Lacroix disclosed fresh details about his new store concept, announced plans to speed development of men’s wear and described a step- by-step approach to bolster women’s ready-to-wear, the core of his brand. Also, Lacroix said he would soon travel to Florida for the first time to meet the Falics on their home turf — and take in next month’s Art Basel Miami fair, as well. “It wasn’t buying a couture house just for the sake of buying a couture house — and then putting it on a diet,” he said, alluding to the specter of layoffs that often haunt businesses after a takeover. Lacroix revealed that the Falics have bolstered staffing in key areas such as marketing, merchandising and production coordination. The designer stressed that his house is still untangling itself from LVMH, and that the spring-summer collection shown last month was still produced under its auspices. Yet, “We worked at it with a new spirit, so much lighter,” he said, citing a 5 percent in- crease in orders. The firm is searching for new manufacturing partners for its rtw collections and taking a “measured, analytical” approach to the task, Lacroix said. That includes en- suring that each item in his collection, such as a jacket slated for Neiman Marcus or Barneys New York, is “at a price that would be clever.” Effective with spring, Lacroix merged his top rtw line and his Bazar diffusion line to better reflect how women shop. “I know that our customers mix and match not only our clothes, but with other brands,” he said. “I much prefer to have the buyer facing one rack with everything from a fur coat to a T-shirt.” Lacroix said a new store environment is also key to re- juvenating his business and a forthcoming boutique at The Forum Shops in Las Vegas, slated for a March open- ing, will feature a concept he’s developing with Paris de- sign guru Didier Krzentowski, whose Kreo gallery com- Christian missions the world’s leading industrial designers to Lacroix make furniture, lighting and home objects. Best-selling Lacroix said the Falics immediately accepted his collab- looks from oration idea, which will see 18th-century consoles cohabit Lacroix’s

with sleek, modern elements with glossy automotive finishes. spring runway. GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; RUNWAY BY ACROIX PORTRAIT L The designer described a freewheeling mix of stone, concrete and ceramic, mixed with red — a signature Lacroix color — and Pucci — an awkward tie he severed last September — Lacroix said he’s “soft and sweet” colors. “I think it will be astonishing,” he said. pouring all his efforts into his signature house. The company is zeroing in on a location for a New York flagship In fact, he has already finished designing his fall-winter 2006 collection, which that should open in the second half of 2006, at which time the historic will be unveiled to the trade in January, and will now plunge into the couture, a Paris location on Faubourg Saint-Honoré is also slated for a facelift. prospect he relishes. The U.S. is a priority for the Falics, who aim to grow its share to account for 35 per- “The idea that I’ll be in the couture house until midnight every night is as pleasant cent of sales, compared with the current 10 percent. for me as waking up and realizing, ‘Oh, it’s Saturday,’” Lacroix said. In recent years, Lacroix’s extra-curricular activities multiplied, from airline uniforms His enthusiasm is reflected in growing sales at the couture. Despite fewer wed- and high-speed train interiors to hotels and even book jackets. The extent of his moon- dings this year in the Middle East, orders for his winter couture collection, shown last lighting led some in the industry to question whether he was still interested in fashion. July, were up 10 percent, the house said. The designer confessed he simply found it easier and more rewarding to work out- Men’s wear, lingerie and swimwear are all areas Lacroix considers development side LVMH, and he will honor commitments to design more hotels and theater costumes, priorities, and he would like to enter the eyewear business soon. including for a Mozart opera in Brussels that opens a few days after his couture show And while he has not yet poured his heart into the fragrance business, Lacroix and a production of “Cyrano de Bergerac” at La Comédie-Française here next spring. said he relishes the prospect. “For the future, I’m very confident, too. If (the Falics) But now, also freed of his duties as the creative director of LVMH-owned Emilio know something, it’s fragrance,” he said.

will have people say, ‘No, you can’t do that.’” designer and new mom Phoebe Philo is also The designer recalled his time at FIT — he said to be torn between her personal life and Fashion Scoops never graduated — living and working out of a her role at the Paris-based fashion house. Vock, studio above a florist in the area, and working 35, helped found the GWAND festival 13 years COBBLE STONE: Karl Lagerfeld isn’t the only superstar Silvia at the Lothar’s boutique on 57th Street, which ago to promote young designers. Recent Venturini Fendi collaborates with at Fendi. Word has it she recently asked him to put together a collection for the winners of its 100,000-euro grand prize spent several days in Rome codesigning a luxury travel set with store. He launched his own label in 1981. include Haider Ackermann and Raf Simons. Sharon Stone, who caused chaos whenever she strolled the Via “Any way you can get into the door is Condotti from her hotel to reach Fendi headquarters. The leather great,” he said. “Open your eyes to COME ONE, COME ALL: An eclectic crowd of goods are part of an effort to raise funds for one of Stone’s opportunities. They are not just with designers.” rock stars, muses and film bigwigs gathered at favorite charities, AmFar, and will culminate with an auction at Asked to identify his favorite designer, Kors Soho House Tuesday night to preview Jacob the Cannes film festival next spring. didn’t hesitate. “Halston,” he said. “If you “The Jeweler” Arabo’s new advertising look at the clothes today, you can walk out the campaign featuring Helena Christensen. The ART SMART: Hedi Slimane, who recently curated a Robert door and wear them.” diamond don chose to don a brown and black Mapplethorpe exhibition in Paris, is gaining more art world As for expansion, a home furnishings Helena Christensen velvet suit for the affair. “Do I look like a credibility. Photographs by the Dior Homme designer are included collection appeals to him. “It will definitely be and Amy Sacco pimp?” he smiled, as he greeted guests in a group exhibition titled “Thank You for the Music,” which something we will want to do one day, but I including Michael Stipe, Harvey Weinstein, bowed Thursday at the Monika Sprüth Philomene Magers gallery can’t tell you when,” he said. Connie Nielsen, Amy Sacco and Bono, who had to run off early in Munich. The exhibit also boasts music-themed Kors concluded on an inspiring note — “Follow for his concert at Madison Square Garden. Christensen, who works by Matthew Barney, Douglas Gordon and Thomas your dream, go for it, enjoy” — then stepped off nibbled on chocolates throughout the evening, went for a more Demand, among others. Meanwhile, Slimane recently stage, where he was mobbed by students. subtle statement in a lavender gown from Marc Jacobs’ spring unveiled his first sculpture at the Frieze art fair in Career Day was organized by Fashion Group collection. (Coincidentally, Christy Turlington was wearing the London, and he’s working on his first solo art show for International through its Fashion Group Foundation. same dress at an event uptown.) Almine Rech gallery in Paris in January. GWAND ADIEU: Fashion and motherhood don’t seem ACTING UP: Some of the actresses in the front row of the Yves KORS CLASS: Michael Kors shared some wisdom with to be good companions these days. Suzanna Vock, Saint Laurent show in Paris last month are making an encore — students at the Fashion Institute of Technology’s director of the prestigious GWAND fashion prize in in the French brand’s upcoming advertising campaign. Sources annual Career Day. “Do everything wacky you ever Switzerland, said Tuesday she was stepping down to said Juergen Teller recently photographed the likes of Amira dreamed of while you are here,” Kors told a packed have a baby, making her the latest member of the Casar and Isabelle Huppert — plus a gaggle of models — for the auditorium at the event this month. “Later on, you Michael Kors fashion flock to reevaluate career and family. Chloé spring-summer campaign. ORS PHOTO BY KYLE ZACK SECKLER ERICKSEN; CHRISTENSEN AND SACCO BY K 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 WWD.COM Darroze's Blue Streak black truffle NEW YORK — To speak to restaurateur Kurt Gutenbrunner is to ice cream. be unwittingly drafted for a revolution — albeit a culinary one. It’s been a busy fall for the indefatigable chef, who seems to be singlehandedly striving to vitalize Teutonic cuisine in New York. In September, he opened the well-received Thor, on the Lower East Side and in October, he created Café Fledermaus to act as an auxiliary space for his ever-popular Café Sabarsky in the Neue Galerie. Now, he’s taken over the Le Zinc space in TriBeCa from Chanterelle’s David Waltuck and is gunning for a Dec. 5 opening. It’s his most accessible place to date — a casual gathering spot modeled after a typical German bistro. “I wanted to do something low-key,” explains Gutenbrunner, relaxing for a mo- ment in a booth while workmen mill around him. “When I look back at places in Germany or Austria, every village has a restau- rant called the Black Eagle or the Golden Swan, and all the artists would meet and work out of there. Just sit with friends, have a bite and a glass of wine.” To that end, his latest spot will be called “Blaue Gans” (the Blue Goose). By Christmas, the kitchen will be open from breakfast until 2 a.m., helmed by Gutenbrunner’s Wallsé-trained protégé Martin Pirker and pastry chef Pierre Reboul. “I want to be Joe Torre,” Hélène says Gutenbrunner, explaining why he’s taking a step out of the Darroze kitchen. “I want to be the coach. I’ve been cooking for 30 years and it’s time for my guys to be on the front line.” The food, of course, will retain Gutenbrunner’s Germanic touch, including dishes like lake perch, sausage and apple strudel. But patrons don’t need to eat at all, as he plans to serve German beers and Austrian wines at the long bar that was a hallmark of the restau- French Kisses rant’s previous incarnation. The only thing patrons won’t find in PARIS — It looks like the way to a woman’s heart is also through her stomach — or is it vice versa? the 90-seat space are modern conveniences — there will be no Consider two-star French chef Hélène Darroze. The taste of her lover’s kiss inspired 10 recipes in menus, no tablecloths, and no telephone. Nor will they be tak- her unusual new cookbook — one of three from prominent female food stars hitting bookshelves here ing reservations, just walk-ins. “My friends who want a table this winter. can just call me,” says Gutenbrunner. “I did not want to just write another cookbook,” Darroze explained at her Rue d’Assas restaurant. To that end, her ambitious seven-pound tome recounts the love story of a young woman chef, blended with 160 recipes inspired by memories and emotions. Among them is Darroze’s great-grandmother’s “Escartoun” dish, a corn flour flan with goat eye® cheese served with black truffles. Meanwhile, the lover’s travel stories prompted some “world food” recipes such as a glazed ham with citrus fruit zests and semolina. Darroze’s 365-page book — titled “Personne Ne Me Volera Ce Que J’ai Dansé,” or “No One Will Steal What I Have Danced” — exemplifies her motto: “Cooking is living and living is cooking.” Chef Sophie Dudemaine, for her part, had the audacity to revisit Alain Ducasse’s “Grand Livre de Cuisine” with her “La Cuisine de Ducasse par Sophie.” She selected 105 of Ducasse’s beloved recipes and simplified them, reducing, for example, the number of steps needed to make rabbit ravioli from 36 to 18. Dudemaine claims she also made sure people would be able to find the ingredients she used for her interpretations. It took a little bit more diplomacy, however, to convince Ducasse to The interior of Blaue Gans. agree to the project, but once he tested some of her recipes, he gave her carte blanche to democratize his cuisine. “The goal is to simplify people’s lives. But it should look good and it Apolonia Poilâne’s book cover. must taste good, too,” says the blonde, energetic chef, who encourages Among the legions of done-up dance her readers to buy finished or even frozen products instead of making them from scratch. She also uses lovers who turned out Tuesday for the simple and comprehensible language to explain the recipes. EYE SCOOP New York City Ballet’s opening night Dudemaine already has published seven books, including her bestseller, “Sophie’s Sweet and celebration was one surprise guest. Peter Bacanovic, the former Savory Loaves,” which sold more than a million copies in France. She also runs an inn in Normandy stockbroker who recently ended his prison term and a five-month house where she gives cooking classes. arrest for his involvement in the Martha Stewart case, was clearly excited to Meanwhile, the most famous bread in Paris, Poilâne, gets exhaustive treatment in the 390-page be there after his lengthy hiatus. cookbook “Le Pain par Poilâne.” The book was penned by 21-year-old Apolonia Poilâne, who runs the “This is the first time I’ve been out in three and a half years,” he said. family bakery on Rue du Cherche Midi. A longtime supporter of the ballet, Bacanovic seemed calm, but jovial Extremely well documented, it traces the history and the role of bread in our civilization; gives as he chatted away with Fé Fendi, at whose table he sat, reminiscing advice on selecting, eating and storing it — and, of course, offers those treasured Poilâne pain recipes. about ghosts of galas past. After dinner, he led her onto the dance floor She completed the gargantuan work her father started before he lost his life in a plane crash three before departing for the evening to pack for his next trip. years ago. Finally, the fabled Poilâne house and its delicious bread will hold no more secrets once the “I’m off to the Bahamas tomorrow,” he said — though not before he reader closes the book. jokingly instructed a photographer, “Make sure you get a good picture of — Chantal Goupil me. It will be the first one in three and a half years!”

der-blue Lincoln Continental and catering to the celebrities who frequented Richard Notar the legendary disco. “I think there was a charm in my naïveté,” says the THE GATEKEEPER Jamaica, Queens, native who once didn’t recognize David Bowie at the club. NEW YORK — For every A-lister who dines at Nobu — Renée Zellweger, Though he’s become more cognizant over the years, Notar isn’t entirely Jennifer Aniston, Beyoncé — there are dozens of C-listers trying to butter immune to the tricks people will play to get a reservation. “You take family up Richard Notar for a table. people, good, God-loving people,” he says, “but when it comes to restau- “The Gastineau girls? What do they do? Tara Reid? She parties for a liv- rants it’s OK to lie.” For instance, a man identifying himself as Steven ing. But if you tell me you’re a brain surgeon, then you’re a VIP to me,” Spielberg once called to request a table at Nobu in TriBeCa for 8 p.m. that says Notar, general manager and managing partner of the 12 Nobu loca- same evening. “He was saying all the right things,” says Notar, who “moved tions worldwide, plus a new one set to open at the Atlantis resort in the heaven and earth” to accommodate the director. When the gentleman came Bahamas in December. in, Notar knew something was amiss. It wasn’t Spielberg after all. “So now But it’s likely that even a brain surgeon or two here has heard a busy sig- I’m enraged,” Notar says. “Do I throw him out, do I call the police, what do I nal on the other end of the line when calling Nobu or the most recent outpost, do to get back at this guy? He was spending a lot of money, so I thought, Nobu 57, for a reservation. So what’s the trick to getting through? “Phone OK, I’m not going to make a scene, I’m just going to embarrass him. So as calls, patience, and I’m a big believer in frequent fliers,” Notar, 46, explains he’s walking out, the maître d’, two hostesses and I go like this,” he smiles simply. “If you’ve been coming to our restaurant downtown for 10 years or I and gives a golf clap. “We said, ‘Best imitation of Steven Spielberg we’ve see you in London or Miami, I’m going to try to make it a lot easier for you.” ever seen.’ And he kind of put his head down and went out the door.” So there’s no secret phone number? “If I have a relationship with you, you Notar hasn’t been duped since that caper 10 years ago, but he’s been know how to reach me.” In other words, his cell phone is the secret number. punched three times by Nobu customers (twice by women) and dealt with Notar started out in the hospitality business nearly 30 years ago, when countless guests throwing temper tantrums for better tables. Fortunately, Steve Rubell pulled him off of dish-washing duty at his restaurant at Nobu there’s a simple solution to satisfy those types: Seat them next to Enchanted Garden and put him at the front of the house. “I like your smile, a celebrity. “The black cod tastes better when you’re sitting next to Alec buddy,” Notar remembers him saying. When Rubell opened Studio 54, Baldwin,” he smiles. Notar became his personal assistant, driving Rubell around the city in a pow- — Emily Holt DARROZE PHOTO AND DISH BY JEROME DELAFOSSE; MATHIEU DARROZE PHOTO AND DISH BY POILANE COVER BY THOMAS IANNACCONE BY TURNER: NOTAR DAVID GANS BY ALEXANDRE; BLAUE Next Issue Coming Soon Perfect-Bound: WWD February 6 Close: ACCESSORIES December 19 Spring Into Style. A first look at spring’s hottest trends and star products, from the most plugged-in editors in the business.

Bonus Distribution: Select Neiman Marcus InCircle customers and affluent consumers from the Condé Nast database. For more information, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, at 212-630-4596; Melissa Morales, account executive, fine jewelry, at 212-630-4588; Katherine Nelson, West Coast account executive, at 323-951-1805, or your WWD sales representative. ®

WWDMediaWorldwide PHOTO BY STEPHEN LEWIS 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 Ta m i n g t he G i f t

NEW YORK — Considering that we are three days into the traditional holiday Deliver catalogue and a call to the personal shopper at Toys ‘R’ Us for children’s gifts. shopping season with 27 to go until Christmas, it’s a little too late to shop à la Candy “I always just ask her, ‘What is the most popular toy for a child that age?’ ” she Pratts Price. In June, the executive fashion director of Style.com started ordering her explains. perennially favorite gifts: monogrammed versions of everyday items — cocktail When it comes to the gift card — perhaps the easiest present of all — strong napkins, coasters, playing cards — that have become hits with friends like George opinions abound. Most deem gift certificates for luxury spa services acceptable, but Malkemus and Manolo Blahnik. “We looooove monograms,” says Pratts Price. “But you the option is otherwise considered a bit of a snooze, although Lucky Magazine need the time to say, ‘Okay, for Janis Savitt, I’m going to do pink with a silver JS and creative director Andrea Linett still gives a thumbs-up to certificates to slightly less- that looks kind of cool.’ I even used to do it for [Stephen] Sprouse in Day-Glo orange.” expected spots such as eBay, the Apple store (which can be used to purchase songs on Pratts Price is a gift enthusiast, to say the least. “I love gifts — I love to receive, I iTunes) and even movie theaters. “I got an $150 certificate from someone for Loews love to give,” she says. Even her regular feature on Style.com, The Shopper, is theaters that you can use for tickets and popcorn and it was always in my wallet, so currently renamed Holiday Shopper, showcasing presents at every price level — from I’d just be like, ‘Yeah, let’s go to the movies,’ and then I’d treat people,” Linett says. less than $100 to “the sky’s the limit.” Such restrictions don’t apply when buying for teenagers. “[Gift cards] give them the The commercial side of the holiday season freedom that they don’t usually have,” says tends to split people into two camps: those who Greenberg. “It’s always them asking you, ‘May adore trawling antique shops, flea markets, the I? May I?’ And [forget] trying to buy them Internet and tiny, tucked-away boutiques for something cool. Quite frankly, because of your gift perfection, and those who, in a word, don’t. age, you are so not cool.” Nevertheless, no matter how annoying the first A Shopper’s Guide While it’s hard to forget the story of the group may be to the second, their habits are woman trampled at a Florida Wal-Mart two quite revelatory. years ago by a crowd in hysterical pursuit of While few start as early as Pratts Price, DVD players priced at $29.97, most stores many shoppers still spread out the work, Do actually do their best to soothe, not stoke, the snapping up choice tidbits here and there as • Make a list and check it twice: It pays to be organized and to know just how much frenzy. To hear Barneys New York’s executive they find them throughout the year. Helen work you have ahead of you. If you’re feeling really ambitious (or cash-poor), try vice president of store operations, Michael Schifter usually begins chipping away at her adding some numbers and make a budget. Celestino, tell it, the shopping season requires list at the first of three annual Mulford Farm • Browse online: Bettina Zilhka surfs Jandr.com, Circuitcity.com and Pcrichard.com a near military approach. “Honestly, [the Antiques shows in East Hampton, N.Y., which for electronics. Heiji Choy, the owner of the hip Chicago boutique Hejfina, goes to planning] pretty much starts right now for next this year fell on June 25. “I just buy things that museum Web sites such as Moma.com and Mcachicago.com for great design gifts. year,” explains Celestino. “Post-Thanksgiving, catch my eye without even a specific person in She also checks out the beauty site Sephora.com for holiday deals. we start keeping a diary [of the store’s mind,” she says. “Then I put the stuff away and • Pay attention: Scoop’s Stefani Greenfield takes note when a friend compliments operations]. Then we take a look at that match it up with the person later.” Model Gail her on a shoe or bag and then buys the same item for her, while Kate Spade says formally sometime in January, and continue to Elliott, who designs a line of lingerie and she plays Sherlock Holmes with her friends and family, picking up hints about refer back to it.” The department store hires clothes under the Little Joe label, does the what they might want. 150 additional staff members for its 13 same while she travels between London, New • Throw the book at them: According to the the gift pros, everyone loves a book. For nationwide stores; they generally begin York and her native Sydney. an intimate shopping experience, check out Spade’s favorite spot, Ursus Books on working as early as October for some crucial But there are no guarantees. Marjorie Madison Avenue. ABC Carpet & Home’s Madeline Weinrib prefers Glenn Horowitz hands-on training before the madness ensues. Raein, for instance, starts her shopping in the Booksellers, located on the Upper East Side and in East Hampton, for rare Managers at most smaller stores say they do the summer, but still often finds herself running volumes and first editions. same, finding that supplementing the staff into Saks Fifth Avenue at the 11th hour to grab • Give small luxuries: Helen Schifter recently bought an elaborate 18-inch glass makes the whole machine run more smoothly. something off the first-floor tables. Shopping and stainless steel pot of tupelo honey for Paul Wilmot, complete with a long Jeffrey Kalinsky, however, prefers to rely on his too early also can be risky. As Bettina Zilkha wooden dipper from East Hampton store Turpan. The verdict? “He loved it.” full-time staff at both his Jeffrey New York and points out, the iPod Nano she plans to buy for • Practice empathy: “Buy them something they want, not that you would like them Atlanta stores. “I don’t think my client wants her 18-year-old niece didn’t exist in July. Others to have,” says Jeffrey Kalinsky. Greenfield has bought her husband race car- someone who’s working for six weeks to help say there’s a chance they’d forget about that driving lessons. Now that’s love. them,” he says. great buy if they made it months earlier. But • Get creative: Schifter and her daughter, Storey, pack up boxes of homemade Even though stores typically reach a fever Kate Spade says she just loves “the hoopla” brownies, and once whipped up pheasant pies. They’ve even put together their pitch as the gifting hour nears, many shoppers that surrounds last-minute shopping, when the own gift baskets, stuffed with interesting wines, biscuits and caviar. say they prefer the tangible brick-and-mortar jingling holiday spirit is thick in the air. “I’m route over the click of a mouse. But with six kids probably one of the few people who adore to shop for and a burgeoning fashion empire to shopping when it’s crazy,” says Spade. manage, time-starved Tory Burch finds the “Everyone’s happy, and the stores are hopping. Don’t Internet indispensible. “What’s great is that you It just feels so festive that I wouldn’t want to • Give perfume or clothes: Unless you’re absolutely sure of size and taste. Or, if you can [shop] at any time of night,” she says. “I do a look for gifts in July.” must go the clothing route, buy nonsized items. lot after the boys go to bed.” Other Internet-savvy Regardless of when they start, all great gift- • Recycle gifts: Re-gifting is a serious offense, particularly when the present in types say that a well-run Web site can make the givers seem to cultivate lesser-known stores question is disguised as a thoughtful, first-time offering. whole process a veritable breeze. The online that don’t get the boundlessly abundant foot- • Go tacky: “Silk flowers — not a good gift,” says Candy Pratts Price. “I would boutique Shopbop.com, for instance, boasts a traffic of, say, Macy’s or Neiman Marcus. Lucy never give wrinkle cream or control-top panty hose,” adds Choy. customer service staff of 35 — all of them are Sykes, for one, swears by the West Village • Treat it like a chore: It’s hard, but try adding a little joy. “If it’s a chore, it makes well-informed about Shopbop’s wide range of boutique Auto for Missoni towels and dressing your relationship seem like a chore,” says Louis Boston’s Debi Greenberg. goods, from Diane von Furstenberg frocks to gowns; she recently bought designer Thom “Everybody talks about commercialization, but it doesn’t have to be that way.” Loeffler Randall shoes to all sorts of jeans. Browne a colorful Tivoli radio there. Spade • Be afraid to ask for suggestions: Even if you’re not going the personal-shopper Another can’t-miss stop on the Web is Eva says she always checks out the wares at route, some retailers recommend calling a sales associate you know and telling Jeanbart-Lorenzotti’s Vivre.com, which this year downtown spots Paula Rubinstein, John Derian him or her you’re coming in. “We’re happy to be the gift editor for you,” says has an entirely separate gift section with a lavish and Ted Muehling, while Pratts Price counts on Neiman Marcus spokesperson Ken Downing. array of ideas. Among the varied range: “The Hadley Antiques on the Upper East Side for • Wait until the last minute: “If you wait, you’re going to have an anxiety attack,” Chronicles of Narnia” boxed set ($45), colorful that special something. says Greenfield. “No good can come of it.” Brazilian agate bowls ($60), an Adrienne Landau ABC Carpet & Home’s Madeline Weinrib’s cashmere and fox beaded stole ($995) and a winning gift idea? Vintage Pucci handbags and rainbow of NASA-grade Swiss Army pens ($50), clutches that she unearths at What Goes Around Comes Around in SoHo. Of course which can write upside-down and also have all the accoutrements of the classic knife. Weinrib, the daughter of ABC Carpet & Home owner Jerome Weinrob, can also shop Finally, for those still averse to the idea of shopping or for people who simply don’t the family store, including her own in-store atelier that she fills with pillows and have time, there is always the personal-shopper option. Though she loves the DIY carpets of her own design, as well as other items picked up while globe-trotting. And route, Raein has had to resort to some professional help in the past at Saks Fifth Raein’s secret weapon is T. Anthony for last-minute gifts that don’t look last-minute, Avenue. “It was so efficient,” she says. “They take care of the wrapping and make it since the luxury leather goods store will monogram its wares while you wait. look beautiful. And they send it all over to your house — I’d highly recommend it.” Some gift-givers, however, dispense with the romantic notion of casually — and The shoppers themselves are like the Zen warriors of the retail world. “I have to calm endlessly — searching, in favor of more targeted, strategic shopping. Each year, Louis people down all the time,” says Barneys New York personal shopper Sharyn Soleimani. Boston owner Debi Greenberg chooses a theme, such as candles or gloves, and then “So many people are busy. There are just so many commitments.” Saks Fifth Avenue’s buys for everyone on her list. For Behnaz Sarafpour, it’s one-stop shopping at the Sharon Weil, who oversees the store’s Signature Services department, has had clients SoHo design store Moss. “I’ve discovered what works for me and the people in my call with their to-give lists as early as Labor Day and as late as 5 p.m. on Christmas eve. life, and that is Moss,” Sarafpour says. “You can buy kitchen things, jewelry, books. But she, too, claims the patience of a saint. “How do I deal with the last-minute shopper There are things with a modernist edge, and then they have really pretty Austrian on an adrenaline rush who needs 23 gifts in two hours?” she asks. “I fulfill the request.” porcelain that looks like it could be from Christie’s.” Sarafpour even goes so far as to But in the end, the best shopping advice is to keep it all in perspective and not let say, only half-jokingly, “It sounds horrible, but if there is not one thing that somebody stress get the better of you. “It’s like when you feel pressured about what you’re going likes at Moss, then I can’t even be friends with that person.” to wear to a wedding,” says Linett. “You’re obsessed about it, and when you get there, Zilkha, on the other hand, has a few time-tested tactics. She knocks out the you realize it doesn’t matter. It’s just really nice to give a gift.” majority of her list with fruit from Harry & David, gifts from the God’s Love We — Meenal Mistry WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 7 WWD.COM Horse ILLUSTRATION BY ROBERT PASSANTINO ROBERT BY ILLUSTRATION 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 Lundgren’s Federat

Continued from page one Marshall Field’s to the Macy’s nameplate. Terry Lundgren The execution of the $17 billion merger, creating a $28 billion, 950-unit Federated, won’t be quick or easy. Consolidation will take about another two years, and May employees have to buy into the program to make things work; so do consumers accustomed to shopping the more moderate-priced May stores. Beyond the broad strokes — renaming virtually all May department stores Macy’s and feeding Federated’s most profitable private and national brands into the ex- May doors — there is the nitty-gritty of cost-cutting, sell- offs, systems work, human resource concerns, and re- spacing and rearranging merchandise and categories involved in integrating May into Macy’s. “It’s a big project, but when you take May’s capital budget, $650 million, and [Federated’s] $600 million a year in capital, when you put that together, there’s a tremendous amount of resources that you can apply to getting the stores right and making the customer store experience more consistent,” Lundgren said. During the hourlong interview, Lundgren gave a sense of what lies ahead and what he is doing to imple- ment the Macy’s strategy. Among the key initiatives are: ● May stores will be examined “location by location” and put through Federated’s planning and allocation ma- chinery to get products and locations in sync. As Lundgren described it, the effort is almost a surgical pro- cedure to determine how products and brands perform at each door and how consumers shop in each market. In addition, May doors will get a good dose of Federated’s “reinvent” program, which involves retro- fitting stores with enhanced fitting rooms, price lookups, signs, wider aisles and increased amenities. The process takes six to nine months per location. “We are working with May management now to identify rein- vent work for next year,” Lundgren said. ● Off-mall sites will be considered as Macy’s seeks to conquer even more turf. It will bring the chain in closer competition with Wal-Mart and Target. Macy’s and May have only a handful of off-mall sites currently, but Lundgren said they all perform well. ● Federated will be more open to testing new design- ers, though “It’s not an all-store strategy,” Lundgren said. ● Some categories — Lundgren cited shoes, acces- sories and furniture — will be respaced in many doors to conform to Federated’s floor plans, causing some dis- ruption to selling floors. May stores tend to have larger furniture departments and smaller ones for shoes and accessories, compared with Federated’s. ● Macy’s central marketing team, based in New York, will be pumped up with increased talent, under Federated’s chief marketing officer, Peter Sachse, to create “a first-class marketing organization.” Lundgren’s suggestion: Think Target. “I have tremendous amount of respect for Target’s marketing capabilities,” Lundgren said. “To me, no one else out there has done the job. I think we are next. It will take a year or 18 months to hit our stride. We will not just throw things out there. We will be thoughtful on how we execute our strategy. The marketing subject is a high priority for me personally. “We will definitely be building Peter Sachse’s organi- zation so that it’s a full organization that takes advan- Federated’s grand department store scheme revolving would [people in Chicago] be shocked” by the renam- tage of our new national presence.” around Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. ing? Lundgren asked. “The regional department store Lundgren said corporate marketing will recruit cre- A decision on L&T is expected in January. In the concept has been struggling for some time now. The ative people who will work with outside agencies, and meantime, Lundgren has been meeting with L&T staff, State Street flagship has been a good store for them, but will develop additional consumer research capabilities. trying to understand their concerns and keep the ship it’s a small percent of the overall business. State Street Moreover, the seven Macy’s divisions around the U.S. afloat through the holiday season. He has been meeting is one store. There are 61 other Marshall Field’s. The will maintain their own marketing arms for more local- with the other May divisions, as well. idea of taking advantage of a national brand just makes ized efforts. “The first step has been to listen closely to the people, all the sense in the world. Federated has other concerns. High on the list is to be sensitive to them, to understand that in some cases “Certainly, it’s a difficult decision,” Lundgren added. Lord & Taylor, which this season started to show some we have disrupted their lives. We are sensitive to that “The Marshall Field’s name is perhaps the most re- improved sales results. Federated might sell it piece- fact,” Lundgren said. “At the same time, we are trying to spected regional name...But when you think about it, meal or in its entirety, and possibly to a private equity show them the opportunity attached to being part of the you could not expand the business.” Previous attempts firm, or spin it off into an independent chain. new company…and telling them about the vision for the to do so, including putting stores in Texas and “We want to truly understand the potential of that business. People are generally turned on by the vision.” Columbus, Ohio, didn’t work. They were ultimately business,” Lundgren said. “It’s a good brand. I want to Converting Marshall Field’s to Macy’s hasn’t been a closed, Lundgren noted. make sure we sort through all of our options.” Retaining turn-on to Chicagoans, considering Field’s is an institu- “Most who have criticized the Marshall Field’s Lord & Taylor “is clearly one of our options,” Lundgren tion with huge hometown loyalty. But Lundgren defend- change have not looked at the potential of the Macy’s said, adding that he’s “impressed” with Jane Elfers, ed the decision, saying it’s principally a change in name brand, and keep in mind we want to serve customers by L&T’s ceo. only, and that the Field’s business has not performed location, with the best assortments,’’ Lundgren said. But with so much work to be done consolidating May well for five years. As an example of how desperate May “We will continue to make the State Street store an up- into Federated, L&T, which has been in a multiyear was to drum up business, Lundgren said Field’s has scale, very exciting place to shop. The truth is, Marshall turnaround, might be deemed too much of a distraction added 100 days of sales promotion since 2004. Field’s needs a formula that is more exciting than it is and a specialty business that ultimately doesn’t fit into “Marshall Field’s is a great brand name, but why today. We are already working with the Marshall Field’s WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 9 WWD.COM ted: Getting in Sync

whelmed with vendors who have the desire to work Macy’s New York flagship. with us on that basis. We are unique in that regard. We can provide the growth that is required by many of these resources.’’ For any retailer to succeed, “I always believe that it starts with the product,” Lundgren said. “If it is unique in the stores, that is the first step...That is a critical sub- ject for all of us. Many businesses have failed because they haven’t been unique. Customers get bored when they see the same type of merchandise. That’s when business is in danger of disappearing.” Products, Lundgren added, must be “the best in class in terms of design, price competitiveness, style and fit. We are fortunate in that our private brand has been the fastest-growing part of our business for the last few years. We love INC. We love Hotel. “There is another opportunity for us to work with new and up-and-coming young designers, to make sure we add uniqueness and to keep the modern part of our business alive,” Lundgren said, though that’s “not an all-store business.” Asked about finding new types of locations for Macy’s as it goes national, Lundgren said, “Anything is possible now. I want to listen and work with the real estate com- munity, and clearly do not want to limit Macy’s to the traditional mall. That is our home base and where we have the vast majority of our stores...We take responsi- bility for making the mall work. We are the anchors.’’ However, with lifestyle centers and other off-mall formats, “if the idea is right, we are very interested in exploring options,” he said. team and Frank Guzzetta [Field’s ceo]. He’s got great very important for us. Our planners and distributors are May and Federated operate stores in a few off-mall ideas and a lot of passion for the business. We will work spending a tremendous amount of time by location, try- sites, including the Irvine Spectrum outside Los together to create a very exciting shopping experience. ing to see how certain stores behave. Initially, we should Angeles, Easton Town Center in Columbus, Ohio, and “The only thing [with Field’s] that is changing is the use science and technology here. Why do guesswork?” City Place in West Palm Beach, Fla. Lundgren said the name on the building,” Lundgren said, generally retaining It is as if the Federated teams will be “living in the stores are all successful. “Those stores typically don’t its buyers, sales associates and department managers. stores, talking to customers, looking at the behavior of have the normal 180,000 square feet. They could be By last month, Lundgren said he had visited about 20 product,” he said. Federated’s regional merchandise 110,00 or 120,000 square feet, or in many cases might be May stores, including some Marshall Field’s units, and structure is “pretty extensive,” with 20 to 40 regional a fill-in strategy,” meaning there could be a larger that his team visited 45 or 50 stores. merchandise managers typically in each division. Macy’s in a shopping center not far from a smaller “We kind of divide up the territory and any time we “I don’t know anybody who has the structure we Macy’s in a lifestyle center. are close to a May store, we try to pop in,’’ he explained. have,” Lundgren added. “We have [divisional] head- “For the first time, Macy’s will have a national pres- “Our impression is that the stores are generally in good quarters in seven cities. Our structure may cost more, ence and can market our message nationally, as Target shape. There are different standards, different areas of but we think it’s the right structure. If you are in the and Wal-Mart are able to do,’ Lundgren said. “In our focus and intensification, merchandise-wise. [Federated fashion business, you need to have people who really case, we truly are in the fashion business. That’s differ- stores] consistently have more space allocated to understand those customers” in each region. “This will ent from what’s being offered by the other guys. The women’s shoes and accessories, and they have more be what separates us from most of our competition.” fashion business is a very different business [requiring] space devoted to furniture. Sometimes, furniture is a Asked about the implications of a national chain, very different skills, different inventory cycles. You have whole floor, sometimes just 8,000 square feet. There are Lundgren responded, “There are a number of them. to make room for new fashion deliveries each month. more fixtures on the floor at a typical May company First of all, you think of the assortment, which is criti- “We’ve got this national umbrella for marketing and store, per square foot, than at a Macy’s store. That’s not cal. We have had tremendously positive response from for private product, but we will also be tailoring as- right or wrong. That just makes them different. our resources.” sortments to each location,” Lundgren stressed. Macy’s “Overall, the boxes are the same and the layouts are Lundgren said Federated’s size excites vendors. will be coming up against Wal-Mart and Target more generally the same size. There are a lot of similarities, “They love to talk about doing something unique with often, though Lundgren emphasized, “We don’t plan on but there will definitely be some tweaking and stores. It’s about exclusivity, or introductions only at trading our business down to carry lawn mowers or changes.” Macy’s, for a time...We have been somewhat over- Clorox bleach.” Lundgren’s road trips also entail selling the vision of a national Macy’s to May workers. Federated plans to Federated made the tough cut 6,200 jobs, eliminating May corporate and divisional Federated made the tough decision to convert headquarters: Filene’s/Kauffmann’s in Boston, Foley’s decision to convert Marshall Field’s to Macy’s. in Houston, Hecht’s/Strawbridge’s in Arlington, Va., and Marshall Field’s to Macy’s. Robinsons/May/Meier & Frank in Los Angeles. The com- pany expects to achieve about $172 million in cost syn- ergies next year and $450 million in 2007 and beyond. “There are definitely a lot of May people who have decided to stay and we are very excited about that,” Lundgren said. “Several thousand people have indicat- ed their interest in being part of Federated, and are going through a detailed interview process.” As part of the pitch, he outlines four priorities: im- proving the assortments and furthering Federated’s fast-growing private label business, simplifying pricing with fewer coupons, promoting the “reinvent” strategy geared to make shopping faster and easier, and plans for a national Macy’s marketing strategy. He said May stores will benefit from fitting-room up- grades, the addition and respacing of the private brands and an opening up of aisles to make the departments easier to get into, but now “we are spending most of our time working with our vendors and really trying to un- derstand the performance of products in their stores. “We are not just making these black-and-white deci- sions,’’ Lundgren said. “We are analyzing at each loca- tion what consumers want and need, and trying not to think about the business in only a macro sense, but rather in a by-location sense. That’s where I think we Lord & Taylor on Fifth Avenue: Its future is uncertain. have advantages. Our planner-distribution function is 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

The mobs at Macy’s Herald Square.

Strong Holiday Start But Caution Rules PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE, ZACK SECKLER AND THOMAS IANNACCONE

By David Moin holiday season got off to a “relatively flat start as com- will rise 6 percent this year to $439.5 billion. pared to 2004, with Black Friday slipping 0.9 percent.” “I was at Garden State Plaza at 7 a.m. on Friday and the NEW YORK — Even after a big Black Friday weekend, According to the NRF, “the ceremonial kickoff to the crowd was as large as I’ve ever seen it,” said Ron Klein, retailers aren’t breathing easy. holiday season began with a great deal of fanfare, as 145 chairman and chief executive of Macy’s East. “It seemed Those that made a lot of noise and offered a lot of million shoppers flooded stores and the Internet hunt- liked it was building all day long. People were in a good markdowns did well, with consumers grabbing at early- ing for popular electronics, clothing, and books.” On mood, but it is a long time between the day after bird specials, two-for-one deals, apparel and cold weath- average, shoppers spent $302.81 over the weekend, the Thanksgiving and December 24.” Federated Department er accessories, and deeply discounted electronics. NRF said. No one is taking business for granted, despite Stores, parent of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, projects 1 to 2 In apparel specifically, executives percent comp gains for the fourth quar- cited strength in contemporary sports- Bloomingdale’s ter. (For more on the scene at Garden wear, juniors, designer accessories, 59th Street State Plaza, see opposite page.) sweaters, celebrity fragrances, and reported double- “As expected, retailers offered cashmere sweaters, scarves and muf- digit gains. substantial discounts and savings on flers. They also credited a high propor- Black Friday to bring people into tion of their sales volume to consumers their stores and consumers held up shopping for themselves, as much as their end of the bargain by going for gifts, and were thankful for wintry shopping,” NRF president and ceo temperatures that hit the Northeast. Tracy Mullin said in a statement. After a flurry of upbeat news “Even though many retailers saw reports on Saturday, with huge crowds strong sales this past weekend, com- on Friday induced by some of the most panies will not be basking in their aggressive pricing seen in years, by success. Stores are already warming Sunday afternoon retailers seemed up for the next four weeks because less euphoric, having time to examine the holiday season is far from over.” to what degree the big crowds trans- “Sure, anything can happen,” in lated into real business. the days ahead, acknowledged Though still generally optimistic Michael Gould, chairman and ceo of for a good holiday ’05, retailers are up Bloomingdale’s, However, he said against tough comparisons from a year Friday and Saturday were “two big ago and acknowledge the possibility of days” and “very strong” with the 59th a post-Thanksgiving shopping lull as Street flagship posting double-digit consumers play their usual waiting gains on Friday. game, hoping stores panic and slash Gould and a few other retailers, prices even further. including Sears, cited some positive Adding to the uncertainty, were trends in hurricane-wracked Florida. inconsistent reports regarding Black “There may be some bounce back Friday’s outcome from research and industry organizations. the strong turnout nationwide at malls, discount power there,” Gould said. Total spending for the Thursday through Sunday was centers and downtown destinations. As of Sunday, the “Stores that have reopened in the Gulf Coast are estimated at $27.8 billion, a 21.9 percent increase over average person has completed 35.6 percent of their hol- doing well, as people are replacing their wardrobes. The last year’s $22.8 billion, according to a poll of 4,209 con- iday shopping, slightly less than a year ago (36.8 per- post-storm recovery will probably continue to boost busi- sumers by BIGresearch, commissioned by the National cent). Only one in 13 consumers (7.5 percent) finished ness through spring,” said Bob Goodfriend, ceo of Retail Federation. But ShopperTrak said Saturday the their holiday shopping. The NRF projects holiday sales Knoxville, Tenn.-based Goody’s. “But fuel prices that WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 11 WWD.COM have been high have also affected middle America, Roxanne Assoulin as well as inspirational pendants, Westfield Shoppingtown Garden State Plaza on Black Friday. which is our customer.” such as “I am blessed” from M2 by Mary Margrill. Atlantic Station, an 800,000-square-foot retail-enter- Fur-trimmed items and pieces with embellishment tainment complex that opened in October north of down- were sure bets at Seattle-based Nordstrom, said fashion town Atlanta, has seen many out-of-state license plates communications director Pamela Perret. from Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama, indicating Among the bestsellers were North Face’s Metropolis that evacuees are taking up residence temporarily or jacket in a shiny chocolate color with faux fur trim for permanently in the area, said a spokesman. $229, and a Nike reversible quilted vest also with faux “People are definitely shopping for deals. They’re fur trim at $175. The Vince cutaway crochet cardigan, bargain-conscious,” said Randy Blackburn, a Sears, $245, and Beth Bowley vintage cashmere cardigan with Roebuck store director in Los Angeles. jewel clasp, $198, were also popular. “Apparel on a relative basis was better,” said Bill “The stores are busy and we’re helping a lot of peo- Taubman, chief operating officer of Taubman Centers. ple,” said Perret. “We’re seeing stronger numbers in apparel, though it’s not a big weekend for designer concepts. That customer MASS APPEAL has bought before or will buy later in the season. Sears, Roebuck in Miami reported 220 customers lined Designers customers don’t necessarily want to be here when it’s really busy.” However, Taubman cited stores like Abercrombie & Do the earmuffs fit? Fitch, Hollister, J. Crew, Forever 21, and other young appar- el chains as being busy. He also mentioned Ann Taylor. He estimated that sales would be up in the mid-sin- gle-digit range, and noted that for the year to date through September, retailers at Taubman malls were up 7.5 percent. “I think it’s going to be fine in the malls this Christmas.” At Abercrombie & Fitch, polos and fleece have been strong in men’s, while in women’s, knit tops, fleece and any fur-lined or fur-trimmed outerwear sells best, according to Tom Lennox, director of corporate communications at the company. Denims are also strong in men’s and women’s. According to Shop.org, a division of the National Retail Federation, 58.9 million consumers are expected to shop online today, in what’s known as Cyber Monday, Cartier’s one of the biggest online shopping days of the year. festive touch Here is a breakdown of the weekend’s action. on Fifth Avenue. UPSCALE STORES Bloomingdale’s reported ready-to-wear “spectacular and less promotional than last year,” with the store’s ceo up before the 6 a.m. opening, and there was good selling citing contemporary and designer sportswear, coats, across soft and hard lines. Among the leading sellers were dresses, furs, fine jewelry, designer handbags, women’s Craftsman cordless drills and mechanic’s tool sets, air shoes, and men’s wear as top sellers. The store eliminat- compressors, high-efficiency washers and dryers, cook- ed a DVD promotion and early-bird specials and said it ware, and personal care products. Fine jewelry was also would have a less promotional December compared popular, especially diamonds and gem stones. with last year. The 59th Street flagship had a “solid dou- Goody’s opened stores at 5 a.m., and as early as 4:30 in ble-digit” gain Friday. At Bloomingdale’s in Lenox some locations, with a new promotion this year — a $10 Square, Atlanta, premium denim, velvet blazers, design- gift card giveaway, which improved early morning traffic er handbags and Western-style boots were bestsellers, Friday, but overall sales were flat with last year. “We’re according to a spokeswoman. Seven for All Mankind, including Chloé, Fendi, Balenciaga, Gucci and Prada.” still struggling with the misses’ category,” said the firm’s Citizens of Humanity, and Rock & Republic were top While the weekend is important, “We don’t look at Black ceo Goodfriend, who added that key vendors, such as lines in denim, especially styles with hardware details. Friday like Best Buy,” Reeder said. “The luxury shopper Duckhead and some lines produced by Kellwood haven’t Saks Fifth Avenue appeared more crowded and pro- typically spreads her buying through the season.” performed well this year. Bright spots Friday were basic motional than a year ago, with early-bird specials and Ylang 23, a designer jewelry store at the Dallas sweaters, including soft acrylic cardigans, sleeveless discounting across several categories. Galleria, racked up a 70 percent gain Friday and mock turtlenecks from private label vendor Designer At Neiman Marcus Group, customers continued to Saturday mostly due to Internet sales and phone orders, Originals, and holiday or novelty sweaters, from vendors respond to the top trends of the season, buying long neck- said Joanne Teichman, owner. Mall traffic also was Tiar, Crystal and Victoria & Co. laces in jet black, yellow gold jewelry and designer eye- strong, and she’s projecting a 20 percent gain for the sea- Juniors, especially skirts, pants and gauchos, and wear, particularly sunglasses from Chanel, Gucci, Dior. son. “It’s a glorious mood right now, which is just amaz- accessories and shoes were all strong, but didn’t over- “Eyewear is hot this season,” said Ginger Reeder, vice pres- ing considering the tragedies and the war going on,” she come the softness in misses, said Goodfriend. The weath- ident of corporate communications. She added, “Anything marveled. “I think it’s going to be a wonderful season.” er — from hurricanes to the warm weather this fall — will velvet has been strong, designer handbags continue strong, Bestsellers included bangle bracelets by Me + Ro and Continued on page 12

Lisa Herman, a mall spokeswoman, said several hundred parking spaces. about 100,000 people were expected to visit “This is my first Black Friday,” said At the Mall With 100,000 in Tow Garden State Plaza on Black Friday, about Valory Bardinas. “There are good sales PARAMUS, N.J. — Routes 4 and 17 in people lined up waiting to receive a free 2 to 3 percent more than last year. but the parking situation is bad. I was Paramus are two of the most abundant clutch with purchase. One woman said she Retailers have come to view Black two seconds away from road rage.” shopping stretches in the state with no was on line for two hours. Macy’s was also Friday as an event and have developed it Jen Puglisi was feeling good about her less than five malls and hundreds of big- busy; the retailer was distributing $1 mil- into a competitive sport with limited sup- expedition to Garden State Plaza. “I box stores and specialty shops. At the lion worth of gift cards nationwide. plies of advertised door busters. started at nine,” she said. “The mall is crossroads of 4 and 17 is Westfield Garden State Plaza opened at 7 a.m., Department stores advertised items such too packed but I got deals and that’s Shoppingtown Garden State Plaza, the but 4,000 to 5,000 eager shoppers waited as cashmere sweaters and coats. Donald always a good time. I’m going to be state’s first regional shopping center and outside. The center’s management took Soares, a principal of Capgemini, a spending more this year.” the dominant mall in the area. It was with pity on the early birds and opened the Chicago-based consulting company, said Lisa Esposito was running out of a mixture of fear and trepidation that I doors, allowing them to warm up in the consumers are confident right now patience. “The lines are horrible,” she said. approached this colossus of commercial- common areas while they waited for the because gas prices have more or less sta- “I can’t even get into the stores. We want to ism on the busiest shopping day of the stores to open. About 300 shoppers took bilized at the pump. “There’s a lot of talk buy a lot more. The prices are incredible.” year, Black Friday. Me and every other their places outside of Best Buy, which about the housing bubble bursting, but One of the least stressed out shoppers bargain hunter in Northern New Jersey. had advertised specials. housing has actually appreciated. Natural on Friday was Lisa Speciale, the winner of The first indication of the crowds At the California Pizza Kitchen, shop- gas costs are expected to rise nearly 60 a Westfield Garden State Plaza essay con- inside was the level of congestion in the pers were told there was a 50-minute to 1 percent in the Midwest. When the heating test. Speciale, who wrote that she’s a living parking lot. On a good day it can be diffi- hour wait. Across the way at J.C. Penney bills come in in late December, consumers Garden State Plaza directory because she cult to find a space; some of the parking there were long lines at the registers — a will be pretty disappointed.” knows where every store is, was whisked is so far-flung the mall employs shuttle seldom seen sight — as shoppers bought Judging by the traffic at Garden State to the center by limo at 7 a.m. “I love this buses. I proceeded directly to Neiman discounted children’s clothes and Plaza, consumers are still optimistic. At mall, it’s the only place I shop,” she said. Marcus, where valet parking costs $10, $5 prepackaged gifts. noon, the parking lot at the mall, which is While others fought for parking spaces with a Neiman’s charge card or receipt. Despite all the added traffic, employ- also anchored by a Lord & Taylor, was and dressing rooms, Speciale and her per- Neiman’s wasn’t especially busy but ees in the Nordstrom children’s shoe full, and the valet attendants outside sonal shopping concierge had entre every- had gotten into the promotional spirit with department maintained their composure Nordstrom were turning cars away. In where. Speciale shopped for herself, had markdowns on designers such as Dana as parents yelled out sizes and kids ran January, the center will breaking ground lunch at the Rotunda at Neiman’s, Buchman and Missoni. And the promo- around the displays. “Monsters Inc.” was on a new expansion, which will add shopped some more and had a massage, tions at other stores helped draw hordes to playing on a monitor where more than one 30,000 square feet of retail space, a leaving for home no worse for the wear. the mall. Outside Express, hundreds of tired little shopper had plopped down. movie theater with stadium seating and — Sharon Edelson 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 WWD.COM Markdowns and Early Birds Ring in the Season

Continued from page 11 mufflers, and gloves for men and women; children’s At Dallas’ NorthPark Center mall, which opened a also affect holiday business, said Goodfriend. wear, classic fragrances such as Chanel No.5; celebrity new wing two weeks ago, traffic rose 18 percent and 56 At Target in Gwinnett County, 15 miles northeast of fragrances. including those by Britney Spears and Sarah percent of stores reported they had beaten their sales Atlanta, around 60 people lined up before 6 a.m. to take Jessica Parker, and new designer fragrances from plans, said Christine Szalay, marketing director for the advantage of sales on digital cameras, the new Xbox 360, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. mall. “The average sales gain we heard was between 6 and other electronics. J.C. Penney reported record sales Friday with strong and 27 percent,” she said. “All indicators are that it will Kisha Jones, 25, found work at the Gwinnett Target momentum Saturday as well, said Ken Hicks, president be a fabulous Christmas at NorthPark.” when she moved to Atlanta, along with 30 family mem- and chief merchandising officer. He declined to reveal Crowds hit Galleria Dallas starting at 6 a.m. Friday, bers in September after losing her home in New the sales gain, but said, “We had great traffic across the according to Peggy Weaver, general manager. “We were Orleans’ Third Ward. “I’ve had to replace everything we country.” Penney’s did best with doorbusters — espe- going up against strong double-digit increases from had, so I’m spending less than half as much on Christmas cially a portable DVD player for $88, women’s last year but it looks like we beat them . Shoppers are this year,” she said. Worthington leather jackets for $48.88 and lambskin out and looking for luxury, especially fine jewelry, At Lenox Square, Sandy Murphy, 40, a data modeler coats for $99, plus a St. John’s Bay men’s leather coat for leather, cashmere, epicure and electronics. Several for Delta Airlines, was shopping for gifts, but spending $98. Worthington and St. John’s Bay are private labels. retailers reported that they beat their sales plans less this year. As she has the past several years, she rose Two of Penney’s biggest businesses were juniors and early. The mood of shoppers is upbeat and looking for at 4 a.m. to be at Circuit City by 5 a.m. to take advantage young men’s, particularly junior sweaters and young great gifts on which to splurge. It’s a great start to the of early-morning giveaways, rebates and deep discounts men’s fleece, Hicks noted. The chain also did well with holiday season.” on electronics and software, where Galleria Dallas, which has more she can save around $195. The 115-foot-tall than 200 stores and attracts more than This year, with bankrupt Delta’s Christmas tree at 17 million visitors each year, also future uncertain, Murphy has talked Fashion Island in enticed visitors with ice-skating to her son about cutting back on hol- Newport Beach, Calif. shows featuring Olympian Dorothy iday gifts, and she is watching her Hamill, among others, and a treelight- budget for herself. ing ceremony. “I shop clearance sales and off-sea- At Macy’s in Union Square in San son for that,” she said. “I’ll buy less Francisco, about 350 people waited in from my favorite stores — Banana line for the 6 a.m. opening, said Lori Republic and Coldwater Creek.” Randolph, vice president and general At Wal-Mart in Columbus, Ohio, manager of that location. shoppers rushed for toys, electron- “We normally have good morning ics, kids’ apparel and comfy-cozy traffic, but not great like this,” said basics such as loungewear bottoms Randolph, who said that the effects of and sparkle-accented fleece. The the company’s first national advertis- biggest draw was a heavily adver- ing campaign could be visibly seen in tised 15-inch wireless laptop, priced the “bumper to bumper” traffic on less than $500, which sold out within escalators. moments and left some shoppers The campaign, which including a grousing about the slim supply. million-dollar giveaway, launched on Columbus resident Shirley Thanksgiving Day and was the first Ishmael had hoped to secure the one for the company to include all of low-price laptop for her daughter, the divisions. but a relative sent out before 5 a.m. Randolph said the women’s shoe to stake out a local Wal-Mart didn’t area was particularly packed, indicat- get lucky (he was 20th in line; there ing that people were doing a lot of pur- were only 10 laptops available.) chasing for themselves. Fur-trimmed Ishmael and her daughter, Connie boots sold very well, she said, as did Sue Hansgen, were in Target at Easton items in velvet and with embellishment. Town Center in Columbus before dawn “There’s going to be a lot of to score an $84 home theater system, Christmas in Southern California,” one of the Minneapolis retailer’s heav- said Jack Keyser, chief economist at ily touted values. Ishmael’s $120 tab the Los Angeles Economic also had a $44 George Foreman Grill. Development Corporation. “At first Her daughter spent more than $600, people were cautious because of high including two iPods for her children. gas prices and people overestimated The parking lot was full Friday disasters on the Gulf Coast, but now morning at Target Greatland in people are realizing that the national Woburn, Mass., but 90 percent of shop- economy is doing well.” pers were grabbing toys and electron- Keyser also attributes the robust ics. The apparel section, while look- shopping conditions to the low 4.4 per- ing trend-right, was jammed with cent unemployment rate in Southern deeply discounted merchandise, California, and said that traffic at including Mossimo faux fur jackets Lakewood Center, one of the first for 50 percent off. Traffic at Target has regional malls in the Los Angeles been slow during November due in area, was a bellwether for the upcom- part to unseasonably warm weather ing season. in the Northeast. Among the mark- The mall, located 15 miles south of downs, there were a handful of hot downtown Los Angeles counts sellers. An Isaac Mizrahi 100 percent Robinsons-May, Macy’s and Target cashmere sweater, at $39.99, sold out among its anchors. Keyser said that in all but the largest sizes. stores such as the Disney Store, Best A Wal-Mart in Danvers, Mass,. had Buy, KB toys and Circuit City all a carnival-like atmosphere, as shop- opened at 4 a.m. to crowds eager to pers, their views obscured by huge TV snap up such items as Xboxes and

boxes wedged into carts, bumped into PHOTO BY JAN JARECKI iPods. Target’s 6 a.m. opening saw a displays and occasionally each other. boots, which Hicks credited to the cold snap. Customers crowd who literally ran into the store, said Keyser. Early-bird specials drove traffic to Kohl’s the day after didn’t seem phased by the rise in prices for home heat- Traffic was also brisk In Orange County malls such as Thanksgiving. The Wisconsin-based value retailer which ing bills. “Everybody put that aside to enjoy and get Fashion Island in Newport Beach, Calif. and Irvine has more stores in California than any other state, had 250 ready for Christmas season,” he said. Spectrum in Irvine, Calif., where families lined up by 9 specials that went from 5 a.m. to 1 p.m. It included prod- Despite the strong start, Penney’s is sticking with the a.m. to see Santa and the ice skating rink was sold out ucts such as a personal DVD player and a flat-screen TV. low-single-digit sales gain it previously projected for all day. Kohl’s spokeswoman Lori Sansoucie said that home the season. “Fashion Island has been trending strong year to date entertaining items, such as a fondue set and a poker set, Electronics and apparel were the top sellers at the growth over last year and we expect to remain consistent sold quickly, as did men’s and women’s cashmere. malls operated by Simon Property Group, particularly over holiday season,” said Nina Robinson, spokesperson “Jewelry was also really hot,” she said. “Our stores sweaters, Xboxes, iPods and personal DVD players, said for the Irvine Properties which owns over 35 shopping were very busy throughout the day and people seemed Billie Scott, spokeswoman. Based on feedback from 15 centers in Orange County, including Fashion Island and pleased with what they were finding.” malls nationwide out of the 300 centers Simon operates, Irvine Spectrum Center. sales were on par with or ahead of last year, she noted. — With contributions from Holly Haber MAINSTREAM DEPARTMENT STORES Early-bird specials were effective at drawing crowds, and Rusty Williamson, Dallas; Georgia Lee, AND REGIONAL MALLS and a “midnight madness” Thanksgiving night at sever- Atlanta; Michelle Dalton Tyree, Los Angeles “Clearly, cold weather merchandise was terrific,” al Chelsea Premium Outlets centers was highly success- and Kristi Ellis, Washington said Klein of Macy’s East. He cited cashmere sweaters, ful, she added. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 13 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Shanghai Mode Lingerie Taps Growing Market

By Lisa Movius A new trade show featured SHANGHAI — The premiere edition of Shanghai Mode intimate Lingerie, an exhibition of lingerie brands and materials apparel from organized by France’s Eurovet, received positive around the reviews for brands seeking to crack the tough but grow- world. ing Chinese market. The event, which opened Oct. 26 with a fashion show and party at the Shanghai Science & Technology Museum and continued for two days at the Shanghai Exhibition Center, was also a venue for Chinese brands to pursue export opportunities. The trade show includ- ed Interfiliere Asia, a showcase of 87 international but primarily Chinese lingerie textile producers, and the exclusive Private Lingerie, which featured 20 high-end brands from France, mainland China, Hong Kong, Italy, Romania, Switzerland and the U.S. As Chinese lingerie producers eye the global market, the rest of the world eyes China. Eurovet editorial director Valerie Charrier explained at the opening news confer- ence that Chinese women spend only 5 percent of their apparel budget on lingerie, compared with 20 percent for French women and that the Chinese lingerie market grows by 20 percent annually. The city of Shanghai sees more than $1 billion in lingerie sales each year. “Shanghai is at the front end of this creativity boom, and this show is to put together and offer the opportuni- brands section. with the size. ty for an even brighter future,” Charrier said. “The show has been very good and very interesting,” “I hope it’s bigger next year,” Wu said. “It was too Anne-Manuele Hebert, international director of she said. crowded. They need a bigger space next year.” Eurovet, said attendance exceeded 2,500. Marie-Pierre Cherifi, fashion director of Le Caprice The Taiwan-based company, with a factory employing “We welcomed visitors from all over Asia, Japan, de Marie, a small French line that has produced and sold 300 in Nanjing, China, produces half for domestic con- Indonesia, Thailand, Hong Kong, Taiwan, India, Europe in China since its launch in 2003, welcomed the show. sumption and half for export, but hopes to expand its and America,” Hebert said. “We’ll definitely be back next year,” Cherifi said. international market share. Exhibitors gave the show’s format a thumbs up. A spokeswoman for Shanghai-based Gujin Eurovet, one of the world’s leading lingerie trade fair “I’m totally happy with the approach,” said Mary Underwear, one of China’s leading domestic lingerie organizers, held the exhibition in cooperation with the Green Swig, president of Mary Green Mansilk, the only firms, said the company wanted to pursue import and Shanghai Exhibition Center, Promosalons China/Ableling, U.S. exhibitor in Private Lingerie. export possibilities. Invista and the China Knitting Industrial Association. Although the brand has been producing in China “Exports help our brand,” she said. “We want sales to Additional support came from the French Textiles since 1978, Shanghai Mode marked its first participation be half domestic and half international, but are a long Industries Union, the French Knitwear Federation, in a trade show here. way from that target.” Habillement Rhone Alpes, Lyon Vision Mode, Espace While Mary Green Mansilk already has suppliers in She praised Shanghai Mode’s setup as “very profes- Mode, Region Rhone-Alpes, the Shanghai Underwear China, it came looking for additional ones, as well as dis- sional,” but added that the small size of the venue was Trade Association and the Hong Kong Apparel Industries tributors. Swig said contacts made at the show included disappointing and hoped it will be larger next year. Association. freestanding stores, department stores and distribution Woody Wu, director of Nanjing Rey Ping Textile & Eurovet plans to hold the show on the same dates in on eBay China, which already has an authenticated Embroidery, also expressed some dissatisfaction 2006. Loungewear for Women on the Go Passport Panties Take Global Flight NEW YORK — Mickey Sills, creative director of Scanty, is taking loungewear to new heights with a travel line called Just Plane Scanty. NEW YORK — Passport Panties are taking off at 200 specialty boutiques in the The line, produced and distributed by the SBH division of Jacques Moret, was U.S., Canada and Latin America. introduced in July 2004 and has developed a following among teens and soccer moms. The concept — a sort of travel emergency kit for women on the go — was devel- “I fly to the Orient every other month and I got the idea for the line because I got oped after an encounter at the Carlyle Hotel here, where designer Kimberly Howard, so tired of standing in line and watching women having to take off their jewelry, belts, her twin sister, Mary Kay Bowden, and best friend, Morgan Harbin, met for drinks. boots and other items at security checkpoints at airports,” Sills said. “I would see col- “We wanted to create a lege girls whiz through wearing pajamas or Juicy sweats, and I thought why not do a savvy solution for predica- Passport Panties’ emergency travel kit. line? I came up with Just Plane Scanty.” ments that modern women Distribution started in Los Angeles, where Sills is based, at boutiques such as on the go face,” Howard said. Kitson’s, and has expanded to include the Neiman Marcus catalogue, as well as “So we thought, ‘Let’s make bloomingdales.com, song.com and shop- something pink and cute, A point-of- caravan.com. The idea has also gained modeled after a U.S. pass- sale visual popularity in Japan, where the line port,’ and we gave the panty for Just began selling in July at specialty shops motif wings.” Plane and the Peach John catalogue. The concept was unveiled Scanty. Annual sales are between $3 million in July. In addition to one pair and $4 million, according to industry esti- of girlish mesh panties, the mates. laminated pink kit contains Three styles, each with coordinating items Howard said are essen- draw-cord elastic pants, include a short- tial for women who travel: sleeved crewneck shirt, a long-sleeved V- breath mints, deodorant, neck top and an “ultrasoft” long-sleeved stress relief lotion, a cleans-

V-neck top. Colors are baby pink, baby ing towelette and a mini tube TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY blue, heather gray and white. Fabrics of hair spray. include a two-ply cotton knit that has There are three selections: the Primping Panty, the Perfect Panty and the been prewashed and shrunk for the Predicament Panty kit, which includes a hand sanitizer and chocolates. “perfect fly-high fit,” Sills said. Suggested retail is $24. “It feels like something you’ve had in Howard would not give a first-year sales projection, but she noted that “an your closet for 10 years,’’ he said. “The tops average boutique invests between $700 and $1,000” when making a purchase. can be worn with jeans, and the pants can “It’s really become an impulse purchase, a girl-to-girl kind of gift item or a moth- be work with a cute top or jacket. I’m able er-daughter gift item,” she said. “We are thinking of doing more travel emergency- to hit two markets: the 45-year-old soccer related accessories and apparel in the future, like slippers and sleepwear.” mom and the 17-year-old daughter.’’ Howard said a new project will be launched in January: a Panty-of-the-Month Club. Suggested retail is $80 to $120 for tops “There will be a different passport every month,” she said. “January will be and matching pants, and $45 to $58 for the Party Panty and February will be the Pink Heart Panty, while July will be the camis and coordinating boy-cut briefs. Patriotic Panty and September will be the Preppy Panty.” — Karyn Monget — K.M. 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 WWD.COM Accessories Report High-End Watches on a Whirlwind By Jennifer Hirshlag watchmakers, a point brands are finally recognizing. She cited advertisements by Baume & Mercier that feature Meg Ryan and Tag Heuer that spotlight Uma NEW YORK — The high-end watch market just keeps on ticking. Thurman as positive steps in increasing a female consumer’s interest in purchas- After five years of sustained growth in the U.S. follow- ing fine Swiss timepieces. ing a long stagnant period, industry experts said the ren- “They are absolutely making the right decision with the right consumer,” aissance in consumer interest here for fine Swiss-made she said. “It’s about a three-pronged approach: the sophistication of the timepieces is showing no signs of coming to an end. watch, the spokesperson for the watch and the fashion focus of the Optimism reigns for the holiday retail season and kickoff timepiece.” to the new year. Tag Heuer dedicated half of its media budget this year to the “The high-end market is on fire,” said Andrew J. Block, women’s category, hiring Thurman and tennis star Maria Sharapova as senior vice president of watch chain Tourneau. “Housing ambassadors for the brand, said Daniel Lalonde, president in North prices are strong, unemployment is lower. People don’t America of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns the brand. seem to be weighed down by the geopolitical situation, and “In the past, Tag Heuer has been mainly a male-skewed brand,” he this is a feel-good purchase.” said. “However, we’ve had tremendous growth in the women’s category The U.S. has emerged as the biggest market for Swiss this year. Prices have gone up, and the customer is trading up. Women’s watch consumption year to date, according to the Federation of average price points have gone up in the double digits, but they are buy- the Swiss Watch Industry, the trade group in Bienne, ing more expensive watches and recognizing the value in how a watch Switzerland. Almost $1.3 billion worth of Swiss timepieces have defines a person.” arrived in the U.S. between January and October, a 15.6 increase Sharapova even had input in the development of Tag Heuer’s $1,895 from last year’s $1.1 billion during the same period. Hong Kong, Formula 1 diamond watch, which premieres for the holiday retail season Japan and European countries such as Italy, France and Germany and features 125 diamonds on the bezel. follow behind the U.S. in Swiss watch consumption. Vacheron “The theme of this year and especially the last two months are that dia- Finished Swiss watch exports have shown a downward Constantin’s monds are a girl’s best friend,” Lalonde said. “We expect a huge sell- trend, according to Swiss figures. Almost 20 million watch- Malte watch through on the Formula 1. We are bullish on the collection for the next six es left the country between January and October, a 4.9 with a diamond weeks.” percent decrease compared with last year’s 10-month fig- pavéd moonface Lalonde said the luxury watch business in the U.S. is largely underpene- ure of 21 million. In 2004, total watch exports amounted to complication. trated with only 5 or 6 percent of the population owning a watch that re- 25.1 million. tails for more than $500. However, fine Swiss watches show increasingly strong growth “In Europe, that figure is two to three times higher,” he said. because of an overall increase in the value of the timepieces Tag Heuer’s Formula 1, “Therefore, the U.S. market represents huge leaving the country. In October, $916 million worth of watch- designed in partnership growth potential. We have a lot of great years ahead es were exported from Switzerland, a 9.2 percent increase with Maria Sharapova. of us in the watch category, and especially on the over this month last year. Between January and October, women’s side. I think the women’s business will the value of finished watch exports was $6.9 billion, an grow a little faster and what you will see happening is 11.4 percent increase compared with last year’s fig- that brands will start defining themselves more to stand ures. out, especially brands that have a heritage and a history The value of Swiss watch exports increased partly to tell as they will be able to use that story to continue because of more use of precious metals, such as white to outpace [competitors].” and yellow gold and platinum. Unlike the remainder Julien Tornare, president in North of the accessories business, which has experienced a America of Vacheron Constantin, stripping away of sparkly touches, fine Swiss which has celebrated its 250th watches also continue to use diamond anniversary this year, said the treatments on the face and bezel. brand’s message has been “Diamonds are everywhere, about showing the good and it’s not just for women, but points of being old. men also,” said Tourneau’s “We are very proud of our Block. “Watches that you wouldn’t history and our savoir faire, normally associate with being be- as well as our ability to run jeweled are.” our business in a contemporary Block anticipates such bejeweled way,” Tornare said. pieces to be among the bestsellers for The holiday season is impor- the holiday season from brands such as tant for the brand, not only be- Cartier, Patek Philippe and Tag Heuer. cause business peaks, but also be- When it comes to price, the sky’s the cause many of the brand’s new limit, with watches in the $10,000 and up models that premiered during category drawing consumer attention. April’s Swiss watch fairs begin arriv- Block said the holiday period is a great ing in retail stores, Tornare said. selling season, but doesn’t make or break a One model Tornare said represents year for Tourneau, a point echoed by Cathy the direction of the brand in the ladies’ Cronin, diamond and watch buyer for jeweler market is the new Malte silhouette with a Shreve, Crump & Low, which opened in Boston moonface complication. The moon itself last month in addition to having a boutique in comprises diamonds. It retails from $20,000 the Mall in Chestnut Hill, Mass., and a sister to $30,000. store, Schwarzschild Jewelers, in Richmond, Va. “Women are interested not only in jewelry, “It’s a very important season, accounting for about but also in the nice movements of the watch,” he 25 percent of annual business, but it’s equal with Patek said. “It’s a trend for the ladies’ segment.” spring, when people are making purchases for Philippe’s Tornare expects double-digit percentage Michele Mother’s Day or graduation,” she said. bestselling growth from last holiday season to this holiday Watches’ new In addition to industry adjustments to com- Twenty-4 season. Attitude pensate for the strong euro against the dollar, watch. Hank Edelman, president of Patek Philippe the increase in the value of timepieces has silhouette. in the U.S., said the brand is also optimistic raised the prices on watches in the stores by 10 percent, she about the holiday season. said. Retail prices range from $900 to $50,000, with average con- “It’s becoming an ongoing thing, but this year it is more so, espe- sumer purchases falling into the $5,000 to $7,000 range. cially among women,” he said. “There is more consciousness among “Watches are really turning into jewelry,” Cronin said. female American consumers for a quality watch.” “Timepieces are carrying higher metal contents and gem weights. Edelman said the brand’s Twenty-4 silhouette continues to be its bestseller, but the The leaders in the watch world are seeing that people are coming into jewelry stores men’s-inspired sporty oversized Aquanat Luce with a colorful rubber strap and dia- to purchase jewelry. So in order to make watches sell better in the jewelry stores, monds at the bezel is a new piece that has received positive consumer response at they are making them more jewelry-like.” $29,950 retail. Despite the price increases, sales of brands such as Cartier, Rolex, Baume & “It’s a different look for the American market for us,” he said. “However, women Mercier, Breitling, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Tag Heuer remain so strong that are enjoying it.” Cronin anticipates upping the space dedicated to watch sales in the Shreve, Crump & At Michele Watches, creative director Michele Barouh continues to focus on the Low flagship by 10 feet in the next year. brand’s strength in ladylike looks with the introduction for the holiday season of its Cronin also said watch complications, which were once a feature sought out pri- new Attitude silhouette. marily by men, are gaining interest among women buyers. “We have steady business all year-round, but we do have growth at the end of the “Women are getting more educated,” Cronin said. “Women really want to know year because the brand’s watches are in a great gift price point of $500 to $7,000,” said what they are purchasing, and the more sophisticated watch buyers are going after Barouh. “We are also doing better every year in general, with our sales increasing. the more sophisticated watches.” Women shoppers are definitely more savvy than they were a few years ago. They want She said the women’s market still represents a huge area for growth for Swiss the quality there, along with the great aesthetic.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 15 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT Dress Web Site Finds Its Niche HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE RETAILERS 74.10 43.10Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 20.5 68763 62.87 1.86 By Meredith Derby 35.46 18.05Aéropostale Aeropostale 17.6 59992 24.66 3.43 34.04 20.32American American Eagle Eagle 12.7 108911 24.11 0.45 31.72 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 52.9 54490 31.11 0.69 NEW YORK — When Joanne 30.97 13.45Bebe Bebe 21.2 45152 16.15 1.67 Stoner founded cocktail and 2.75 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 4242 1.48 0.05 evening dress Web site 23.22 13.87Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 18.0 1893 18.33 -0.59 44.08 21.02Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 17.2 7647 41.54 1.06 eDressMe.com out of her Man- 19.09 10.90Caché Cache 24.5 6671 18.54 0.50 hattan apartment four years ago, 23.11 16.83Cato Cato 16.6 4653 22.60 0.41 she knew the Internet would be 19.05 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 36.2 5508 17.32 0.26 13.28 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 18.0 24482 12.67 -0.18 an excellent way to reach time- 46.32 18.85Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 48.7 57374 45.72 0.70 pressed women who want to find 52.94 30.63Children’s Children's Place Place 30.4 16819 49.00 0.05 contemporary dress fashions all 31.60 21.92CVS CVS 21.4 162399 27.96 1.04 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 18.4 358 30.35 0.25 in one place. But Stoner also 28.60 18.91Dillard’s Dillard's 15.7 32235 21.91 -1.21 hoped the site would be an effec- 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 18.6 97562 19.06 0.06 tive way to help revitalize New 29.50 15.25Dress Dress Barn Barn 16.4 8697 28.90 0.85 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 63.0 606243 46.71 2.04 Yo rk’s Garment District, seeing 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 17.8 41829 23.11 -0.13 as traditional U.S.-based retail- 78.05 53.80Federated Federated 11.0 100028 67.07 -2.46 ers more often than not source 29.95 18.74Foot Foot Locker Locker 13.1 45097 22.11 0.56 23.05 15.90Gap Gap 13.6 221365 17.72 0.66 goods from overseas. 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 6523 9.41 0.06 So far, both of Stoner’s goals 12.45 7.50Gottschalks Gottschalks 19.3 412 8.52 -0.13 are working out well: With an ini- 34.20 11.58Guess Guess 31.1 21679 34.02 3.13 tial investment of just $200,000 in 2.10 0.50Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 491 1.03 0.05 23.49 13.28Hot Hot Topic Topic 23.7 32606 15.32 0.76 2002, Stoner said eDressMe is 57.99 38.12J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 16.6 56329 54.10 -0.27 profitable and sales have jumped 58.90 43.63Kohl’s Kohl's 20.7 102833 49.20 -0.03 30 percent annually. 26.05 18.81Limited Limited Brands Brands 17.3 69575 22.47 0.82 15.59 6.72Mothers Mothers Work Work - 2151 9.95 1.20 According to one local trade 24.41 11.78New New York York & & Co. Co. 16.0 7022 17.16 0.52 association, Stoner and her Web 39.00 21.48Nordstrom Nordstrom 20.7 65554 38.25 0.74 site, which offers as many as 1,000 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 17.0 49723 27.11 1.02 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 29.2 7184 39.72 -0.63 dresses, are award-worthy. Stoner 14.34 6.41Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 4796 12.25 0.10 was recently named a finalist to 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 21.6 47737 26.99 1.17 receive one of the “Ten Awards” 24.64 13.25Saks Saks 25.6 86541 16.87 -0.59 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.8 61283 119.15 -0.29 from the Executive Council of 28.85 16.88ShopKo ShopKo 24.9 4479 28.73 0.23 New York. The “Ten Awards” are 32.39 23.68Stage Stage Stores Stores 15.5 4254 30.94 0.43 given annually to 10 New York ex- 26.47 15.75Stein Stein Mart Mart 15.4 4425 19.04 0.09 15.80 11.51Syms Syms 38.0 162 14.50 0.05 ecutives who “exemplify leader- 35.34 24.20Tal Talbotsbots 17.0 14414 28.05 -0.16 ship and innovation within their 60.00 45.55Tar Targetget 21.5 163796 55.23 0.01 industry and beyond.” 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 17.8 61859 22.90 0.43 10.61 3.62United United Retail Retail Group Group 16.5 3005 9.69 -0.64 EDressMe’s successful use of What makes 33.77 18.93Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 44.6 73040 32.79 1.99 proprietary technology, combined “ 55.74 42.31W Wal-Martal-Mart 19.8 435691 50.49 0.99 with its humble, entrepreneurial eDressMe different 7.04 1.43We Wett SealSeal - 13150 4.96 0.15 roots, made Stoner a finalist, said 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 3.3 12007 4.51 0.28 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 15.3 9506 29.28 1.31 Bob Johnson, president of the is our mission…It Executive Council. “When you VENDORS look at eDressMe, they’re a small has two parts — 56.31 41.70Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 18.3 8431 44.38 0.63 45.66 24.33Avon Avon 13.5 121467 27.63 1.91 company, but what they’re doing, 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 28.9 213 21.60 -0.29 in terms of the way the [Web one part is to the 37.87 27.40Cherokee Cherokee 16.9 1015 35.26 0.33 site’s] interface is with the ease- 36.65 24.32Coach Coach 34.9 96438 36.64 2.21 industry and the 60.18 41.00Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.6 4480 46.43 1.13 of-use and the customer [interac- 26.50 18.28Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.8 5991 19.27 -0.22 tion], it is truly unique from a lot 47.50 29.98Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 20.0 23661 33.72 0.40 of the other retail shops online other is to our 28.95 14.96Fossil Fossil 16.5 15142 20.78 0.78 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 30.0 134 10.02 0.27 right now,” Johnson said. Winners customers. 43.20 31.19IFF IFF 14.3 41340 33.09 0.48 of the “Ten Awards” will be an- 21.80 12.90Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 20.6 2638 15.28 0.09 nounced Nov. 29 at Cipriani Wall — Joanne” Stoner, 37.48 26.47Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 13.9 33823 29.06 -0.14 Street here. 36.17 21.83Kellwood Kellwood - 5978 24.41 0.66 eDressMe.com 35.29 23.81Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 16.5 3483 29.54 0.93 Stoner, who began her career 43.82 33.70Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 11.9 26007 35.58 -0.52 in the apparel industry 20 years “The New York market really is roughly half private label and 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 16.0 438 5.44 0.18 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 17.0 1653 18.35 0.42 ago as a sales manager at L.S. does have the advantages of half branded merchandise from 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 17.4 56352 88.21 0.51 Ayers & Co., combined her back- speed and adaptability,” she well-known designers such as 56.87 33.34Oxford Oxford 16.7 7049 56.71 2.23 ground in fashion, technology said, adding that the Internet “is Anna Sui, Betsey Johnson and 16.25 0.00Perfumania Perfumania 8.9 37 13.16 -0.43 and business to launch an amazing forecaster, offering a Nicole Miller, as well as from a 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 8.2 3382 19.72 -1.82 35.38 24.11Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 20.0 32512 34.41 1.93 eDressMe. She was previously a quick response to what cus- handful of emerging designers, 55.61 34.19Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 21.9 21131 54.80 0.23 buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue and tomers are looking for.” such as Rebecca Bruce. 18.12 10.63Quiksilver Quiksilver 14.9 15978 12.48 0.23 helped Liz Claiborne launch its EDressMe, meanwhile, is Aside from the Web site, 57.75 38.51Reebok Reebok 14.1 15006 57.50 -0.04 4.29 2.10Revlon Revlon - 13260 2.46 -0.08 Elisabeth dress division. After re- also rooted in the notion that Stoner has also set up a store- 21.84 12.31Russell Russell 15.7 7472 16.36 1.34 ceiving an MBA from Harvard, the perfect dress drastically im- front where shoppers can come 28.82 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 30.0 4712 27.56 -0.24 Stoner worked for Lucent proves a woman’s self-image, in off the street at eDressMe’s 4.22 0.86Tarr Tarrantant - 6394 1.40 -0.01 18.76 9.57To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 19.4 18354 18.00 0.20 Technologies as director of e- said Stoner. “I really believe in new West 38th Street headquar- 18.25 4.50Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 15.0 17843 13.09 0.54 commerce. She helped launch a dresses to empower women.” ters, which is staffed by just 61.61 50.44VF VF Corp. Corp. 11.8 12205 56.00 0.33 software company focusing on re- The site’s merchandise mix seven employees (and growing). 25.88 19.54Wa Warnacornaco 18.8 12278 24.15 0.80 tail supply chain and sales fore- casting before starting eDressMe. Stoner knows she has captured WWDStock Market Index Weekly % Changes a niche. “There are a lot of Web (ending Nov. 25) sites that are selling clothes,” she said during a recent interview. “What makes eDressMe different Largest Gainers Close Change is our mission and the way we ful- Aeropostale 24.66 16.16 fill our mission. It has two parts — Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Mothers Work 9.95 13.71 one part is to the industry and the 1160.78 1159.44 1128.12 Bebe 16.15 11.53 other is to our customers.” Guess 34.02 10.13 Stoner shows that the domes- Russell 16.36 8.92 tic manufacturing network, espe- cially in New York, can compete Largest Losers Close Change with China in the speed-to-mar- 21.36 21.26 21.27 Perry Ellis 19.72 -8.45 ket sector. Instead of sourcing United Retail 9.69 -6.20 dresses for the site’s private Dillard’s 21.91 -5.23 label collection, called eDressMe Federated 67.07 -3.54 New York, from overseas, Stoner Saks 16.87 3.38 chose New York’s Garment Index base of 1000 is keyed to District because she can get closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. trend-right, wholesale goods in weeks rather than months. 16 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 WWD.COM

Acme Gallery on Melrose Avenue, which will double as Liparazzi Illuminating Lip Gloss an office where Paper staffers will produce the February issue’s centerpiece: a portfolio on the “tribes LONDON — Liparazzi hopes to MEMO PAD of L.A.,” a group that runs the gamut “from low riders shed serious light on lips. to socialities to Korean hip-hop people to strippers to The fledgling brand, which LOS ANGELES, I’M YOURS: Paper is not a city magazine Hollywood agents,” according to Hastreiter. Oh, by the was created here by husband- per se, but it’s easy to forget that, so strongly way, everything will be open to the public, she added. and-wife team Max and Nina identified is it with New York’s various subcultures. “So it’s kind of a huge undertaking.” — Jeff Bercovici Leykind — the duo behind Still, the title has plenty of readers outside the five niche makeup and treatment boroughs, the largest chunk of them clustered in that QUICK’S SLOW START: Evidence that the market for brand Eyeco — will introduce other coastal media capital, Los Angeles. To give them women’s weeklies is overtaxed continues to pile up. Liparazzi, a line of five lip gloss- their due, Paper is flying a menagerie of editors, Sales of Quick & Simple, a new low-priced service es, next month. writers, stylists, photographers and scenesters to L.A. title introduced earlier this year by Hearst, have fallen Each gloss’ packaging is fit- next month, where they will spend five days hosting a off considerably since the book went weekly at the ted with tiny bulbs that when marathon of parties, performances and competitions end of September. According to projections supplied switched on illuminate the BEAUTY BEAT — and all while by an industry source drawn from a large sample of product, making it ideal for supposedly producing the title’s market, Quick & Simple, which retails for after-dark touch-ups — its packaging also comes with an at- the February issue, $1.49, has sold an average of approximately 70,000 tached mirror. which will be to 80,000 copies per week since the frequency shift. The founders came up with the concept after seeing showbiz dedicated to the city. Divided by the magazine’s print order of 500,000 friends desperately trying to refresh their makeup before leaving Kim Hastreiter, who copies, that yields a sell-through rate of only about 15 clubs and restaurants, so as not to be caught looking anything less shares the title editor percent — far below the industry average of 34 than glamorous by a swarm of paparazzi. and publisher of Paper percent. A Hearst spokeswoman disputed the “When you do experience that hanging out with friends, you see with partner David accuracy of the figures, but declined to say where the the paparazzi firsthand and the flashes going off, and you realize Hershkovitz, said the company’s own projections put Quick & Simple’s you have to look gorgeous,” said Nina Leykind. She claims the idea grew out of the sales. Meanwhile, All You and For Me, new low-priced glosses can illuminate the inside of handbags, making searching for magazine’s five-year- women’s service titles from Time Inc. and Hachette keys or mobile phones a cinch, too. The lit glosses can also be used old Paper Project Filipacchi, respectively, have also been met with to navigate walks home to country houses or be waved at concerts series, started as an weaker-than-anticipated consumer demand. — J.B. in the place of lighters. antidote to the “It’s glamour utility,” Nina Leykind quipped. sameness of New York HOT MAMAS: Is Maxim finally growing up? In The glosses, which come in five colors, will be followed by the Fashion Week. Extending the series to Los Angeles November, Nicollette Sheridan became the Dennis launch of up to five lipsticks next spring and a compact next sum- was a natural idea, she said, not just because of the Publishing-owned lad title’s oldest cover girl, appearing mer — all equipped with lights, of course. The items, with a logo city’s influence on American and global culture, but on newsstands just in time for her 42nd birthday. that is a sketch of a pout, will retail for $25 each. because, in her view, L.A. needs Paper. “People don’t Maxim follows that up in its December issue with Cindy Henri Bendel in New York will get the glosses in December and really mix together in L.A. as they do in New York,” Crawford, who turns 40 in February. Crawford, who Sephora USA will introduce the line in February. It will also be sold she said. “I guess it’s the car culture. People tend to notes in the interview that she is old enough to be on the brand’s Web site. Industry sources estimate Liparazzi could be ghettoized. The surfers don’t hang out with the Prince William’s mother, is Maxim’s oldest cover model generate $3 million in wholesale volume in its first year. fashion people, and the hip-hop people don’t hang out since Gina Gershon appeared in October 2003. Has The Leykinds are beauty industry veterans. Before introducing with the gays. So whenever we go out there, we like to editor in chief Ed Needham developed a sudden new Eyeko, the pair launched eyebeauty.com. Max Leykind brought mix it up.” appreciation for the charms of the well-seasoned Hard Candy to Europe before it was sold to LVMH Moët Hennessy In this case, the mixing will take the form of art hottie? Apparently not: On Maxim’s January cover, Louis Vuitton in 1999, and Nina Leykind was that niche makeup exhibits, a tailgate party, a New York-versus-L.A. tug- according to a source, is Haylie Duff, age 20. “Guess brand’s publicist in the U.K. of-war contest and something called Gothercise, to be they’re trying to average it out,” said the source. “Or — Brid Costello led by Kembra Phaler. The locus of operations will be save money on airbrushing bills.” — J.B.

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Get one year of wwd.com for $99. To subscribe, go to wwd.com/subscribe. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 17 WWD.COM A Gusher of Luxe in the Middle East

By Robert Murphy Bernard Fornas with H.E. Sheikh Hamad Bin Suhaim Al Thani at the inauguration of PARIS — Luxury has had a vintage year, propelled by the Cartier boutique in Doha, Qatar. robust growth in North America and Asia and resurgent sales in Japan. But the Middle East, flush with cash from the pumped-up oil market, has been the real gusher for the industry. Sales gains in the Gulf region have been vibrant, exec- utives said, adding that the market is ripe for further growth because of burgeoning tourist trade in cities such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates. Meanwhile, they noted local customers, long privy to expensive watches and gold jewelry, have evolved sophis- ticated fashion tastes and are shopping more at home. “Sales this year have been excellent in the region,” said Cartier International president Bernard Fornas, who last month christened the luxury brand’s first bou- tique in Qatar. “The gains have been well above those of our other markets.” Ditto for Corum president Severin Wunderman, who said the Swiss luxury watch brand’s sales have increased 30 percent in the Middle East compared with last year. Chopard vice president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele said the Swiss watch and jewelry house’s sales in the zone have gained 15 percent since last year. “That’s stronger than any other single region,” he said. Meanwhile, Bulgari chief executive officer Francesco Trapani said the Italian house was concentrating on the region. “Wealth in these countries is extraordinary. We expect to see more buying, both locally and abroad.” Trapani said Bulgari planned to soon open a seventh address in the United Arab Emirates, adding to shops Though hard goods — watches and jewelry — have in Dubai, its first Middle East address. Meanwhile, Saks the jeweler operates in Bahrain, Egypt, Kuwait, reaped the majority of the fruits of the Middle Eastern Fifth Avenue, which has stores in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and Saudi Arabia. oil surge (the market is estimated to account for 10 per- and Dubai, plans for further expansion into Qatar, cent of high-end watch sales), fashion houses also said Kuwait and Bahrain. Corum’s Golden Bridge the region presents opportunity. High-profile real-estate projects are on tap, too. Giorgio watch is a bestseller in Michele Norsa, ceo of Valentino Fashion Group, said Armani has a venture to open a hotel in Dubai in 2008, and the Middle East. the nature of wealth has changed in the region. Donald Trump have signed a joint venture to develop his “It is not only sheikhs or emirs who are rich now, but own luxury hotel/apartment complex in the Gulf city. the money is more widespread within the population,” “There is considerable potential in the region,” said Norsa said. “Perhaps the population is not so large, but Chopard’s Scheufele, who also noted tastes have become there is a lot of spending power.” more sophisticated. Kuwaiti retailer Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, who three “They want the latest,” he said. “They know what is years ago opened his first Villa Moda luxury fashion and in. It’s no longer the richest style around. In the old days accessories store in Kuwait City, said the Middle Eastern you could identify pieces that were marketed for the appetite for luxury has grown beyond glitzy watches and Middle East.” jewelry, show-off cars and expensive couture. Though tourism in the fast-growing destinations of Dubai “We can now replace that list with limited-edition hand- and Abu Dhabi has generated luxury sales, executives said bags, shoes and [general] well-being [services] like spas and Saudi Arabia remains the region’s top luxury market. plastic surgery,” he said. “People here spend very cleverly. It is the region’s biggest economy — and it’s growing. They love mixing luxury brands with denim and Zara.” This year economic growth is expected to reach 7 per- Belief in the region’s rosy luxury future prompted Al- cent, the fastest rate in the kingdom in two decades, Sabah to plan for an 11-story emporium in Kuwait City that thanks to oil sales that are expected to soar some 54 per- will offer everything from top-shelf European brands to cent over last year to $163 billion. the chance to play the stock market, store heirloom jewel- The outlook is equally robust generally. The ry and even get teeth whitened. It is slated to open in 2007. International Monetary Fund estimated imports of goods “The [region’s] best markets are Kuwait, Qatar and and services to the Middle East will increase some 15 the UAE, because they have the highest income per capi- percent this year, with similar gains predicted for 2006. ta, followed by highly populated and underdeveloped Goldman Sachs luxury analyst Jacques-Franck markets like Syria, Egypt, Iran and Saudi Arabia,” said Dossin said the Middle East accounts for about 4 percent Al-Sabah, who plans to open a 3,800-square-foot Villa of the total luxury market. But he stressed there’s plen- Moda in the Damascus spice market this spring. He also ty of potential for Europe’s top luxury brands. He pre- operates stores in Qatar and Dubai. dicted sales growth of 40 to 50 percent this year in some “The [region’s] boom is not only from oil prices,” he said. Middle East markets. “The post-Saddam Hussein political stability has allowed “The region’s share of the global luxury market is set many international institutions to invest in the region.” to rise further in the next few years,” he said. On that list is Harvey Nichols, the British retailer, — With contributions from Amanda Kaiser which in December is to open a 120,000-square-foot store and Luisa Zargani, Milan

Blue Blood to southern European coun- Amsterdam in 2006. Jam Session Expands With Stake in Blue Blood tries such as Spain and Italy. “We spoke to many different denim com- “We want to take what is now an panies in the U.S. and the U.K., and we By Courtney Colavita Based in Parma, Italy, Guru has underground label and make it some- really feel fortunate to have found a part- become a hit with the teen set in Italy thing more visible while at the same time ner with Jam Session,” said Steve te Pas, MILAN — In a bid to increase its pres- and Spain since its launch in 1999. Sold keeping the integrity and identity of the brand director of Blue Blood, adding that ence in other European markets, Italian in 3,000 stores throughout Europe and brand,” said Jason Denham, creative the brand, which retails jeans from 200 casualwear company Jam Session the Middle East, Guru is expected to director of Blue Blood. euros, or $235, to 400 euros, or $470, will Group, owner of the popular European reach sales of 90 million euros, or $105.2 Blue Blood is distributed mostly in participate in Bread & Butter Barcelona brand Guru, has bought a majority stake million, in 2005. However, it still lacks a Europe, but also sells in a handful of U.S. for the first time in January. in Dutch denim label Blue Blood. strong presence in markets like Holland shops, including Fred Segal in Los Angles, Jam Session is also looking to open its Jam Session Group bought 53 percent and the U.K., where the three-year-old Louis Boston and Atrium in New York. own network of shops; the first outlet is of the Amsterdam-based premium denim Blue Blood brand is strong. It generates annual sales of around 7 scheduled to go up in Antwerp in the brand for an undisclosed price and has “We really see this deal as way to million euros, or $8.2 million. Nebiolo first half of 2006. At least five other stores the option to increase its stake to 85 per- exploit distribution synergies between said the goal was to double revenue by are planned for next year, including a cent by 2008. the two brands,” said Patrick Nebiolo, next year. Milan flagship in the second half. “This is a very important operation in managing director of Jam Session Group. In addition to developing its whole- As for the U.S., Nebiolo said Jam our development to become a total While production and distribution for sale accounts, which stand at 400 sales Session was putting together a business lifestyle group,” said Matteo Cambi, both brands will remain autonomous, points, Blue Blood’s Denham said the plan that called for entrance to the president of Jam Session. Nebiolo said the goal is to introduce company would open its first flagship in market by 2007. 18 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

Unique small office/showroom 400 sq.feet, hi ceil/new/bright! Designer Fit Model/Receptionist 34th and Madison, 9th floor Production Coordinator/ Anthony Nak, an award winning Assistant Designer Required for trendy garment manu- Partially furnished possible Fast paced Private label sportswear co. facturer. Must be a size 8 & computer Call Michael 212-683-6023 jewelry design company, is currently Merchandising Liaison in search of a President and a Senior seeks entry-level asst. Must be a self- literate. Fax resume to: (212) 382-3623 Position open in LA / Orange County Sales Account Executive to take this starter, organized, detail oriented with area for national music merchandising GREAT OPPTY growing company to the next level. good communication skills. Basic com- GRAPHIC DESIGNER co. Experience required with screen Sales Pro - Est’d NY importer of puter skills required. Email resume to: printing and apparel production. Must President [email protected] Well established accessories co seeks a be self motivated and able to manage costume jewelry/access seeks exp’d graphic artist w/ 3-5 yrs exp. Full bene- self-starter w/proven following to sell This exceptional opportunity is open time with multiple projects. You will to high energy company leaders with fits package. Excellent oppty. Mac need to be able to confront problems volume retailers, catalogs, premium platform a must. Fax res 212-302-2753 accounts nationally. Base + comm + experience in the luxury goods industry. DESIGNER and solve with minimal distress. Good benefits. Email: [email protected] or Anthony Nak’s headquarters is in Austin, INTIMATE APPAREL communication and documentation also Fax: 212-594-4466 Texas and all candidates must be willing required. Please forward resumes to: to live in Austin or commute regularly. Better sleepwear division of Age GREAT OPPTYS! $$$$$ Group Ltd seeks creative designer * Sales Mgr-cosmetic bags w/major license FAX: (512) 989-9241 Sr. Sales Account Executive with 3-5 yrs experience. Must have * Designers - handbags, cold weather This exceptional opportunity is open to proven success rate in identifying and * Asst Designers-handbags, sleepwear Production Coord to $55K current exp PATTERN/SAMPLES high energy, organized, creative thinkers interpreting emerging trends to create [email protected] in follow-up, scheduling from far East. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast with proven records in increasing sales original designs. Technical and planning Bi-ling Chinese-Eng req’d. Strong know- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 and good merchandising skills. Must skills and knowledge of Photoshop and MERCHANDISER/to $120k ledge construction of fabrics+garments. be willing to travel extensively. Illustrator a must. Email resume to : Contemporary/Ladies Mid-town Call 973-564-9236 AGCY [email protected] PATTERNS/SAMPLES/CUTTING Please send resumes to: For well known Contemporary Designer [email protected] Jeans/Sportswear line. Hanging w/DKNY, PRODUCTIONS BCBG etc. Req: must have recent con- Production Sourcing MGR $175-200K 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor Designer - Sleepwear temporary mkt. expr., to manage the Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Ph: (212) 921-8100 ASSISTANT BUYER Exciting start-up sleepwear co. seeks process of design & business end ie: and wovens. Strong relationships with No Lot Too Big or Too Small. highly motivated designer w/ min. planning, production liaison, etc. $ D.O.E. factories WW that produces kidswear. Call CLOTHES-OUT: Women’s Clothing Store seeks Assistant 3yrs exp. Must be able to handle sam- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Buyer for private label product E-mail resume: [email protected] Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. (937) 898-2975 pling from concept to production & (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel)212-481-1941 Technical knowledge of construction development department. Needs to be have exp. in tech. design. Knowledge PRODUCTIONS detail oriented, organized and a multi- of garments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. of luxury fabrics and Photoshop / Illus- Patternmaker Designer $100-$120K tasker who is computer proficient. NJ trator. Competitive salary & benefits. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. location. Off Shore experience current exp in bras. Thorough knowl- Unlimited potential. Please E-mail edge of bra construction + creative preferred! Fax resume and salary resume to: [email protected] RECEPTIONIST PATTERNS, SAMPLES, requirements to: 201-866-0387 design vision. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Est’d childrenswear co seeks an energetic and organized receptionist PRODUCTIONS Assistant to for fast paced office/showroom. If you Full service shop to the trade. DESIGNERS PATTERNMAKERS: are a reliable, out-going team player Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Sales Executive with the ability to multi task, let’s talk. Candidate must be organized, detail 2 Positions Exp w/ MS Word & Excel. Good Patterns/Samples/Production oriented, have basic computer skills Woven Designer benefits package. Fax: 212-695-3847 or Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms and reliable. Call Erin @ 212-840-7490 -Experienced foundations Email: [email protected] Any Style - Full Service or fax resume to 212-840-6961. Knitwear Designer patternmaker Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 ASS’T TO VP OF SALES -Experienced ready-to-wear Sales $90K Exciting contemporary sportswear patternmaker Textiles Pier 22 Designs Established midtown garment company brand is seeking 2 creative, energetic Nice firm is seeking an exp’d person out Full service CAD/Design Studio seeks individual to assist VP of Sales. and organized Designers with 3-5 of textiles to work closely w/sales mgr. Must be proficient in Excel, Word, Outlook Required on a freelance basis for 718.428.8822 [email protected] years experience in either woven or immediate and continuous work. Diverse duties, fast pace, growth. and have excellent communication knitwear design and product develop- [email protected] skills. 1-3 yrs related sales exp req’d. ment. Must possess excellent flat PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Email: [email protected] Please email your resumes to sketching skills, a thorough knowl- [email protected] High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- or fax 732-400-0156 Attn: HR edge of garment construction and the For Space in Garment Center sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 SALES ASSISTANT CAD DESIGN ...... TO 50K ability to research seasonal trend, fabric/yarn and color direction. Strong Patternmaker to $80K current exp in LILITH Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Prints, Flats Sleepwear / Daywear lined and unlined womens jackets. French Women’s designer boutique 212-880-0414 Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 presentation and interpersonal skills required. Daily communication with Strong in micro-dynamics or Gerber, located in NoLita seeks PT Sales Asst. [email protected] or Lectra computer patterns. Long Must be motivated & customer service Search For Space In Garment Center overseas office. Candidate must have strong computer skills: Photoshop/ Island city loc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy oriented. Weekends a must. Please fax Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee resume & cover letter to (212) 925-0080 www.midcomre.com Cost Technician Illustrator/Excel/Outlook. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Domestic/Import Sportswear Production. Computer costing, knowledge of produc- Please fax resume to: 212.594.3999 PATTERNMAKER tion software, experienced in calculat- Women’s Swimwear Co. seeks exp’d. Sales Asst/Production ing yields and determining factory Designer to $95K current exp in better individual. N.Y.C. location. Fax/E-mail: Leading Accessories Company seeks Showrooms & Lofts labors required. Knowledge of import 718 433-1730 / [email protected] individual with excellent communica- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS branded boys coordinated sportswear. duties, requirements, and freight rates Sizes 4-7. For Saks, Lord&Taylor + better tion & math skills. Must be Computer Great ’New’ Office Space Avail necessary. Great benefits. PLANNER/ALLOCATOR...... TO 85K literate & have exp in Merchandising. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Accountant Sr. to $70K min 5 yrs current boutiques. Fashion vision inspired from Fax resume to: 212-244-4061 museums req’d. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Wal-Mart a must NYC /AR Location Self Starter, detail oriented. Midtown exp in apparel req’d. Monthly statements, Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 location, Excellent benefits, incl. 401K. reconciliation, inventory etc. Degree Designer $100-$120K Current exp in [email protected] E-mail resume to [email protected] nec. Midtn Co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY bras. Thorough knowledge of bra con- EDI Coord /Data Processing struction, patterns, + creative design New York City women’s accessory im- vision. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency porter has an opening for candidates Production Assistant Alan Wolf experienced in handling all aspects of 2 years exp. with cut tickets & fabric SAMPLEMAKER Apparel Staffing, LTD EDI, order processing and billing inventory control. Detail oriented with Highly skilled & efficient sewer for A leader in the apparel field Designer $125-$150K current exp in procedures for major dept stores and good written & verbal communication small couture studio in Soho. Attention Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. Ph 212-302-0216 better handbags. Must hang w/ Ralph national chains. Salary commensurate skills. Computer knowledge a must. to detail & thorough understanding of Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light Fax 212-302-1161 Lauren, DKNY, Michael Kors, Kenneth w/ experience. Excellent benefits. Fax Please fax resume to: patterns a must. Minimum 5+ years Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Since 1971 Cole NY, Juicy Couture etc. Call 973- resume: Stephan & Co. (212) 481-4222 212-714-9355 Attn: Anna exp. Great Pay! Please fax resume: Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Recruitment Staffing Specialist 564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency (212)431-3775 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 19

TRAFFIC MANAGER SALES TO $95K Busy midtown office seeks a traffic Sales – Girls 4-16 Hip Upscale Fashion Jewelry Co Seeks manager w/ excellent comm. skills and A/E w/One or More of the Following aminimum of 3 years exp handling Leading jeanswear importer contacts: JCP, Nordstroms, Sears or product movement, especially domes- seeks aggressive sales exec- Kohls. Hot License. Great Company. tically. Resume MUST contain salary Any Product exp A+. req. to: 212-279-0131 utive to sell branded & pri- Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or e-mail [email protected] vate label girls jeans & KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Fast glowing, well established Ladies Importer in NYC has sportswear to dept,specialty Shirting fabric/ finished opening for following positions: Visual Merchandiser and chain store accounts. Must be a self starter and goods sales professional w/ SHIPPING MANAGER New York based position available high level contacts to spear- with Catherine Malandrino. highly motivated person Following up w/various types of customers incl. major retail- head rapidly growing shirt- Responsibilities will include: with exp. in this category. A ing division of large men’s & ers Exp. in public WRHS w/acknowledge in inventory con- trols EDI a must. Min. 5 yrs exp. • Ensure overall appearance in all fabulous opportunity with women’stextile company Catherine Malandrino stores that has a strong fabric and • Create compelling seasonal product great benefits for the right F/T Sales Associate A/R MANAGER presentations Prestigious, fast-paced environment cmt supply chain. Some na- • Document presentation using digital individual. Must have exp. w/major retailers Reconciling & reviewing Fax resume to: Madison Avenue Lingerie / Body Wear tional & international travel checks to resolve chargeback issues Team player w/good photography Boutique seeks Full Time Sales Assoc. required. Fantastic opportu- • Regular floor changes including 646-674-1246 Qualified candidates will possess supe- communication skills Exp. in working w/factor a must department store accounts rior customer service, sales & commu- nity for the right person. • Participate in company projects as nication skills. Please fax resume and A/P MANAGER directed salary requirements to 212-688-5498. Fax resume to Kevin Detailed A/P manager w/3-5 yrs exp. knowledge 5 years experience with references and Marithé + François Girbaud Lynk at HMS Fabrics w/QuickBooks portfolio. Ideal candidate will be crea- 212-765-1101 tive, resourceful and detail oriented. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Graphics skills a must. For immediate Department Store Sales PRODUCTION MANAGER/ASST consideration, please send resume to: [email protected] Seeking an experienced Account Exec- W/knowledge of knits & woven Daily communication utive specializing in department store w/overseas factories & our own office in China & Indonesia sales for its women’s young contempo- officeMust be fluent in Chinese/English min. 5 yrs exp rary division. Ideal candidate must have 5 - 10 years sales experience in All candidates must be computer literate. designer, contemporary or young Exp in AIMS software a plus contemporary. Premium denim sales experience a plus. Strong background Please e-mail your resume to [email protected] or fax in sales projections, gross margins and to 212-398-0032. All resume must have salary req. retail math. Must have a flair for mer- chandising, store assortments and good sales presentation skills. Intimate Apparel Highly exp salesperson seeking lines Technical Designer Technical Designer Athletic Apparel Sales Please Fax or Email your resume to: for department and specialty stores. Master apparel licensee for 100+ yr. old [email protected] or Fax 212-327-2111 Children’s wear company seeks well Men’s branded & private label apparel Fax # 646-459-2633 organized & highly motivated individual company seeking a Technical Design- sports brand with 88% consumer aware- with min. 5 yrs. Experience for boys’ er to work on all categories of men’s ness looking for in-house or commission line. Candidate must have: sportswear. Highly organized and de- sales. Must have strong relationships Retail Sales to $36K base+4% commish •Knowledge of spec. develop. from sketch tail oriented. Responsibilities include and experience selling sports apparel Current exp better-exclusive mens suit •Fit evaluation, garment spec development and re- to major sporting goods retailers and/ and sportswear. Mid-town store east 50’s •Measuring and making comments, view, production packages, flat sketch- or Mid-Tier Dept. Stores. Please forward Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency •Diagrams for garment corrections. ing and product development. Ana- resume and salary history to: The ideal candidate has excellent com- lyze garments to determine compli- [email protected] Exclusive Handbags munication skills and a minimum of 5 ance of spec, construction, fit and Exclusive line of handbags seeks est’d years technical design experience in quality. Must have knowledge of gar- Sales Key Acct Exec $125-$150K +++ sales rep. co. for multiple regions. knit and woven categories. (Tops & ment construction & ability to proper- Established contemporary missy casual Must have contacts with high end sportswear manufacturer seeks exp’d Current exp in kidswear or kids outer- bottoms, outerwear). Knowledge of ly measure garments. Must have ex- wear req’d. Must hang w/ Weatherproof, boutiques and Dept. stores. Excellent Outlook and Excel preferred. tensive computer-aided software de- Sales Rep w/ established accounts in opportunity for expd. Rep midtier/specialty stores & private label. Rothchild, Columbia, Northface, Pacific Please forward resume to: sign knowledge and basic computer Trail, etc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY e-mail: [email protected] Technical Designer [email protected] skills including Word, PowerPoint, Please fax resume (954) 499-1960 Catherine Malandrino,afast-growing, Excel and Outlook. Competitive salary & benefits. Fedon America, Inc. luxury women’s brand, seeks a highly Fashion Denim Maternity Collection Aworldwide Italian Manufacturer of motivated team player w/ exp. in Fax resume with salary history to: (1 year old) is looking for Reps on the A. LaFrance at 212-736-2349 or email: eyeglass cases, multi-function cases, wovens, knits, & leather to develop East & West Coast. Great looking line, eyeglass chains, reading glasses and detailed tech packs. Responsibilities [email protected] great prices and instant delivery. Equal Opportunity Employer M/F SALESPERSON related accessories seeks an Independent will include: conduct fittings from Call Bradley @ (323) 585-4604 or E-mail: A licensed intimate apparel co. seeks Sales Rep to sell all retail chains in proto thru prod. & issue comments to [email protected] aggressive salesperson with experience NYC. Experience & established relation- o/s and dom. factories. Excel, & accts, to sell license & other brands. ships with companies & stores that sell pttnmkng, grading & 3-5 years exp in Fax: (212) 481-5787 or similar product a must. Looking for Designer mkt required. Email resume to: Technical Designer E-mail: [email protected] motivated person to grow w/ co. and have [email protected] presence in midtown NYC showroom. YOUNIQUE CLOTHING Fax 212-683-6242 or Trendy Junior Jeans Company seeks a E-mail: [email protected] well organized, team player proficient in flat sketching of all styles in Illus- Jellyfish Bags / Hats trator. Must be able to build detailed Sales / Sales Assistant For beach resort swim gift. Great sell tech packs using Excel, knowledge of Watch mfr seeks exp’d salesperson to through. All areas. View collection at garment construction necessary to assist VP Sales. Candidate must be www.judithpeters.com (click wholesale develop design proto specs. detail oriented w/ excellent comm & sell sheets). Experienced reps with Please fax or email resumes to: follow up skills. Accessory exp a must. established accounts. 212-764-9186 Competitive salary. Fax 917-351-1238 Call: 858-395-2271 / E-mail: [email protected] Email : [email protected] [email protected] BE THE SKY. WEAR BLUE AND GO ALL OVER THE WORLD.

Find clothing of international renown in the season’s newest colors at the Fashion Centers of Simon. Let the exploration begin.

EXPLORE YOUR FASHIONALITY.

The Fashion Centers of Simon: Atlanta Lenox Square, Phipps Plaza • Austin Barton Creek Square, The Domain • Boca Raton Town Center at Boca Raton • Boston Atrium Mall, Burlington Mall, Copley Place, Northshore Mall, South Shore Plaza, The Mall at Chestnut Hill • Charlotte SouthPark • Houston The Galleria • Indianapolis The Fashion Mall at Keystone • Las Vegas The Forum Shops at Caesars • Miami Dadeland Mall • Mission Viejo The Shops at Mission Viejo • New York Roosevelt Field, Walt Whitman Mall, The Westchester • Palo Alto Stanford Shopping Center • San Diego Fashion Valley • Washington DC The Fashion Centre at Pentagon City Searching for the Sweet Spots Sweet the for Searching LAS VEGAS PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; ALL OTHERS BY CORBIS WWD ICSCPreview RETAILERS LOOKFORTHENEXT OPPORTUNITIES SECTION II SECTION

PROPERTIES Fashioning Elite Opportunities

For leasing information, call Lori Pawley at 312-960-5880 Kay Day (Ala Moana Center) at 808-946-2811

NATICK MALL, NATICK, MA • TYSONS GALLERIA, MCLEAN, VA THE SHOPPES AT THE PALAZZO, LAS VEGAS, NV • VILLAGE OF MERRICK PARK, CORAL GABLES, FL THE SHOPS AT LACANTERA, SAN ANTONIO, TX • MIZNER PARK, BOCA RATON, FL KENWOOD TOWNE CENTER, CINCINNATI, OH THE GRAND CANAL SHOPPES AT THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS, NV FASHION SHOW, LAS VEGAS, NV • NORTHBROOK COURT, NORTHBROOK, IL OAKBROOK CENTER, OAKBROOK, IL • PIONEER PLACE, PORTLAND, OR ALA MOANA CENTER, HONOLULU, HI • GALLERIA DALLAS, DALLAS, TX WATER TOWER PLACE, CHICAGO, IL • SAINT LOUIS GALLERIA, ST. LOUIS, MO BEACHWOOD PLACE, BEACHWOOD, OH GLENDALE GALLERIA, GLENDALE, CA 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

SECTION II WWD.COM ICSC PREVIEW Luxury on the March A survey finds upscale brands primed for expansion.

By David Moin Burberry was one of the luxuryluxury brandsbrands surveyed.surveyed. NEW YORK — LUXURY LABELS WILL CONTINUE TO EXPAND ACROSS America, capitalizing on the nation’s appetite for quality brands and products, as well as the upheaval in malls, as department stores consolidate and space opens up. In a survey commissioned by the Lumenati division of The Macerich Co., com- pleted by 40 luxury firms in October, it’s apparent that the Tiffanys and Burberrys of the world still see plenty of untapped territory in the U.S. in which to expand. According to the survey, luxury companies, on average, are planning 21 store openings in 2006. The East Coast is expected to get the most new doors — an av- erage of 6.6 per company. The West will follow with an average of 5.6 new doors per company, with the Midwest slated for 4.5 new doors for each firm. Three-fourths of the companies surveyed have no plans for international ex- pansion, but those that do cited “robust” plans for stores abroad. In the East, it’s no surprise that luxury firms are targeting Florida, New Jersey, New York and Massachusetts the most, while in the West, it’s almost all about California, Arizona, Colorado and Nevada. Texas, Oklahoma, Tennessee and Missouri are most often mentioned in the Midwest area, and the Pacific Rim is mentioned most often in the international category. It’s also apparent that luxury stores view retail consolidation, particularly in the department store sector, as further opportunity for growth. On the other hand, they worry about the stock market, terrorism, the economy and consumer confi- dence holding up, and to a lesser degree rising fuel costs. These are all issues that could slow their pace. For many of the brands in the survey, “Retail consolidation is the overwhelm- ing issue,” said Jim Haynes, president of Behavior Research Center in Phoenix, which conducted the poll for Lumenati, the year-old division of the Santa Monica, Calif.-based Macerich. Lumenati includes nine high-end centers in California and Arizona, and when the division was launched, represented about 15 percent of Macerich’s gross leasable area. “Our Lumenati research shows that luxury retailers agree the biggest industry Tiffany & Co. is selective news of this year is consolidation — specifically the Federated-May merger,” said about mall locations. Tracey Gotsis, senior vice president of marketing for Lumenati. “For luxury re- tailers, this means change and opportunity, just as it does for luxury shopping centers. When you open up this much territory, a lot of great things can happen. In a year of somewhat unsettled consumer confidence, it’s interesting that luxury retail executives share a buoyant outlook for this year’s holiday retail season. In fact, they project a healthy sales increase of nearly 15 percent.” Federated Department Stores Inc.’s takeover of May Department Stores Co. was clearly on the mind of luxury retailers with 49 percent listing it as the top re- tail story of 2005. The single biggest potential risk for robust holiday sales is a downturn in con- sumer confidence, according to 31 percent of the respondents, whereas 23 per- cent cited the threat of terrorism. Twenty percent cited a downturn in the finan- cial markets and 18 percent cited rising oil prices. Only 5 percent cited a potential burst in the residential real estate market and just 3 percent are worried about an economic downturn. But the luxury chains are bullish about business, projecting a 14.9 percent sales gain in 2005, and a 14.6 percent gain in the year’s fourth quarter. Thirty per- cent of the respondents project 11 to 20 percent gains for the year, and 23 percent expect 11 to 20 percent gains for the fourth quarter. According to the survey, none of the respondents checked off the statement: “There will be a cultural shift away from luxury consumption.” Further indicative of the inherent strength of the luxury consumer segment, 54 percent of respondents say the single biggest boon for holiday sales this year will be continued strong consumer confidence. “Another 15 percent indicate that the continued focus of popular culture on the purchase of personal and experiential luxuries will provide a boost for holi- day sales….One-fourth believe an upturn in the financial markets will prove most significant.” Only 3 percent said an expeditious conclusion to the war in Iraq would spur sales.

The luxury brands in the survey included Apple, Burberry, Ferragamo, L’ Occitane, Estée Lauder, Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salons, Wolford, Sur La Table and Tiffany. WHERE LUXURY BRANDS These brands believe retail consolidation presents opportunities for shopping centers “to break away from some of the old practices,” Haynes observed. PLAN TO OPEN STORES IN 2006 “The other thing is how universally optimistic they are about the holiday sea- son expectations into next year and potentially even beyond that. Not a single re- Eastern Western Midwestern Other spondent projected any sort of decrease, and the lowest increase mentioned was Region Region Region Countries 2 percent,” Haynes said. “Luxury firms have a good sense of the factors that influ- None 15% 7% 2% 72% ence their business positively or negatively. As the survey indicates, this is a very focused industry segment. 1 to 3 32 43 35 8 “The people at Macerich and other developers have to deliver to attract these 4 to 5 20 30 10 3 [brands],” he added. “If they want a Tiffany in their next center, they better have the demographic data that backs up Tiffany’s notion of who their customer is. 6 to 10 18 13 18 10 “I think brands also have a sense that if they become too enamored with ex- 11+ 15 7 5 7 pansion they can dilute their [name] very quickly,” Haynes said. “While there is a level of confidence, they’re not interested in expansion just for the sake of expan- SOURCE: BEHAVIOR RESEARCH CENTER sion. They see themselves as almost a destination.” whew!

Another exhausting leasing spree. RKF is proud to note that so far this year, we have represented the following retailers in leases throughout the United States.

Design Within Reach Oakley Anthropologie Zales Swatch Secaucus, NJ New York, NY New York, NY New York, NY Las Vegas, NV

Solstice Forever 21 Design Within Reach Solstice Urban Outfitters Houston, TX New York, NY Roslyn, NY New York, NY Las Vegas, NV

Zales Solstice John Varvatos Steve Madden Design Within Reach Queens, NY Tucson, AZ New York, NY Charlotte, NC Greenwich, CT

Steve Madden Swatch Ben Sherman Forever 21 Solstice Tampa, FL New York, NY New York, NY Pittsburgh, PA Jacksonville, FL

New York & Company Intermix BriteSmile Intermix Steve Madden New York, NY New York, NY McLean, VA Southampton, NY New York, NY

American Apparel Breguet Zales Rugby BriteSmile New York, NY Beverly Hills, CA Brooklyn, NY New York, NY New York, NY

From national strategies to strategic corners – think RKF. To learn more, call Robert K. Futterman at 212.599.3700. www.rkf.com

Strategic thinking

ROBERT K. FUTTERMAN & ASSOCIATES I RKF STRATEGIC RETAILER SERVICES I RKF RETAIL BROKERAGE SERVICES I RKF RETAIL PROPERTY ADVISORS 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

SECTION II WWD.COM ICSC PREVIEW

A bird’s-eye view of Upward Mobility Time Warner Center. The Shops at Columbus Circle might be the city’s first successful vertical mall. By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — LIKE ANY HIGH-PROFILE AND AMBITIOUS PROJECT, THE Shops at Columbus Circle had its share of critics, a chorus who said New Yorkers would never take to shopping and dining in a vertical mall. And they had history to back their theory: Herald Center on Sixth Avenue and West 33rd Street failed as a luxury venue and is now populated by Daffy’s, Payless Shoes, Mrs. Field’s and a Division of Motor Vehicles outpost. Manhattan Mall, one block south, has struggled with the departures of anchor tenants A&S and Stern’s. Naysayers also were ready to stick a fork into the Shops’ highly touted dining component, which attracted some of the brightest culinary lights in the U.S., in- cluding Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Masa Takayama and Gray Kunz. But Chicago’s well-known chef, Charlie Trotter, never opened his planned restaurant and Vongerichten’s V may be closing after receiving tepid reviews. “We’re working with Jean-Georges to remain open through the end of the year,” said Kenneth Himmel, president and chief executive officer of Related Urban Realty. “Thomas Keller will open Bouchon, his California French brasserie, and there will be another brasserie cafe. We’re hoping to decide on the chef by the end of the year.” While the high-profile restaurateurs were regrouping, something remarkable happened at Shops: retail tenants posted sales averaging $1,200 a square foot. Only a few elite U.S. shopping centers boast sales of more than $1,000 a square foot. Included in this fraternity is Las Vegas’ Forum Shops, believed to be one of the most productive malls in the country; the Americana Manhasset in Manhasset, N.Y., and the Ala Moana Center and 2100 Kalkalahua Avenue, both in Honolulu, which have tapped into the demand for luxury products from locals and Asian tourists. The Shops, a four-level mall on the site of the former The center combines retail Colosseum on Columbus Circle situated at the southern end of and fine dining. Central Park, has always had a hard time convincing ob- servers of its success. “I don’t know why everyone in New Boss USA. J. Crew, which opened with sales of $1,200 a square York had this terrible aversion to vertical retail,” Himmel foot, is 15 percent ahead of last year. Stuart Weitzman’s sales said, noting that retailers at the Shops are trending 30 per- are up 30 percent, the company said. cent ahead of last year’s sales. Sisley’s owner, Iraklis Karabasis, was so encouraged by “We did $1,000 per square foot in our first 12 months,” the store’s performance he opened a Benetton unit in Himmel said. “Now, close to the end of the second year, as a October. “Sisley has consistently performed well,” a center we’re comping 20 percent over 2004 to $1,200 a foot spokesman said. “Benetton is way above expectations. We’re and we’re finding that our strength is in fashion.” very pleased with the reaction from shoppers.” Hugo Boss has seen “significant double-digit increase over Meanwhile, Esprit has seen sales jump 40 percent over 2004 the previous year,” said Tony Lucia, president and ceo of Hugo for men’s and 60 percent for women’s. At Montmarte, sales are up 33 percent compared with last year, said district manager Hannah Vertical retailing has Held. “We’re very happy,” she added. “The traffic is picking up.” had a troubled history “We’re underassorted in women’s apparel,” said Himmel, who described the in Manhattan. tenant mix as “a step above typical specialty stores without being full-fledged luxu- ry. Part of it is interpreting the mix of tenants so we’re not competing with Madison Avenue. We don’t want to become a regional mall, but it’s a little early to be thinking about Gucci or Louis Vuitton. We’re catering to an entry-level luxe market.” There’s been no retail turnover at the Shops, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for improvement. “We’ll look selectively to make some editing decisions,” Himmel said. “The leases run for 10 years, but there’s always the ability to im- prove on a mix.” While he declined to discuss potential tenants, the center’s wish list is said to include Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Swarovski and Mont Blanc, real estate sources said. The Shops’ operators initially expected to see a disproportionately large male clientele, but it didn’t materialize. Rather, the beauty category has been a strong performer with Sephora registering almost $3,000 a square foot in sales. After a tepid start, J.W. Cooper is taking off, owner Todd Rauchwerger said. The accessories shop, which sells belt buckles priced from $200 to $15,000, is trending 40 percent ahead of last year. “People in New York are giving the center more of a chance than when it first opened,” Rauchwerger said. “They weren’t into it at first — a mall in New York. But it’s not a typical mall with major department stores like in other parts of the country.” Rauchwerger’s Columbus Circle store is performing on par with a unit at the upscale Bal Harbour Shops. “I’ve sold $10,000 and $12,000 out of the New York store,” he said. “We’re selling $8,000 alligator boots. The center gets a mix of medium to high-end customers.” Other businesses also are thriving. At Whole Foods, a 59,000-square-foot spe- cialty grocer, the almost 50 cash registers don’t seem sufficient at lunch time. The massive Williams-Sonoma flagship, which occupies space on the ground floor and second level, is the top-performing unit in the company’s chain. Himmel believes the restaurants and other eateries have symbiotic relationships with the retailers, so consumers who graze at the Whole Foods salad bar or dine at Masa for $350 per person are the same people who shop at Benetton and Sephora. Rauchwerger confirms this notion: “When the restaurants finally opened, sales improved. That’s a big part of our customer base.” There still seems to be a large divide between the price of dining and the price of more populist clothing, but Himmel is satisfied with the results thus far. “A unique environment has been delivered,” he said. “It’s not a regional mall en- vironment. Our success shows the strength of the immediate market we’re in, the 10 blocks around us. The West Side is still understored.” EXPANDING RETAIL BOUNDARIES

Miami • Los Angeles • Madrid • New York • Rome Chicago • Toronto • Atlanta • San Francisco Dallas • Washington, D.C. • Glasgow

Plus Retail Destinations In An Additional 21 Markets

7 03.526.5000 WWW.THEMILLS.COM NYSE:MLS 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

SECTION II ICSC PREVIEW Hawaii Bounces Back With brand-savvy tourists returning in droves and hungry for luxury merchandise,

Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center

By Sharon Edelson trict, near the Hawaiian Convention Center and about four miles from the giant Ala Moana mall, which has several of the same tenants. “To my knowledge, there has NEW YORK — BRAND-CONSCIOUS JAPANESE TOURISTS ARE FLOCKING BACK been no cannibalization of sales,” Siegel said. to Hawaii after staying away for several years after 9/11 and the SARS outbreak, He said there are 35,000 hotel rooms in the Waikiki district that turn over about and they’re buying with a vengeance. every four days, generating an influx of 70,000 new shoppers at least once per week. The signs of optimism are everywhere. In Waikiki, the Outrigger Beach Walk Last month, Louis Vuitton unveiled its renovated and expanded store at the Ala project, Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center and Ward Village Shops renovations as Moana Center in Honolulu. The two-level, 7,500-square-foot unit is three times the well as the International Market Place redesign are evidence of a retail explosion size of its previous location and is expected to generate between $50 million and and renewed confidence in the economy. $100 million in annual sales, according to Jean-Marc Gallot, chief executive officer Visitors to Hawaii spent $10.9 billion in 2004, 8 percent more than in 2003. Of of Louis Vuitton North America. “It’s close to the New York flagship on 57th Street, that total, Japanese visitors spent $2.2 billion, a 13.7 percent rise above 2003, giving but New York is the capital of the world,” said Gallot. the demographic group a 20 percent share of spending, according to a report by the Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism of the State of Hawaii. Hawaii is one of the most important luxury On a daily basis, Japanese tourists increased their purchasing from $240 a day to “ $252. They devoted $99 a day to shopping, a 10 percent increase over 2003 and three shopping destinations in the world. times as much as visitors from the U.S., Canada and Europe, the study said. ” To keep up with the demand, luxury retailers are opening second and even third — Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta stores on the island. And if they’re not building new stores, they’re expanding exist- ing ones. Louis Vuitton is popular enough in Hawaii to support six stores, with locations “Hawaii is one of the most important luxury shopping destinations in the world, also at Honolulu Gumps, Honolulu Hilton, Maui Lahaina, Maui Wailea and and it’s only natural that Bottega Veneta have a strong presence there,” said Tomas Waikoloa. Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, earlier this month. “We’re thrilled to “We have gigantic sales of Louis Vuitton in Hawaii,” Gallot said. “Hawaii con- open our third Hawaii location at 2100 Kalakaua Avenue.” tributes more than 20 percent of [total] sales in North America. The Hawaiian mar- Other boutiques at the three-story town house-style center include Coach, ket is absolutely key and essential because of the future. We see a recovery of Tiffany & Co., Yves Saint Laurent, Tod’s and Boucheron. Japanese tourists to pre-9/11 levels. There’s been a 5 percent increase year-to- Lehman Bros. sold 2100 Kalakaua Avenue for $156 million to Metropole Realty date.” Advisors and Heller Properties. Robert Siegel, president of Metropole, said 2100 Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center in July will complete an $84 million renova- Kalakaua Avenue generates $1,700 to $1,800 in sales per square foot, but could do tion, which will include a new row of luxury retailers facing Kalakaua Avenue. four times that amount based on pre-9/11 sales volume at luxury stores in the area. Cartier and Ferragamo have already built new two-level stores and Bulgari tripled Higher sales are anticipated because there’s about 20,000 square feet of vacant the size of its shop. Hermès has already opened a store there, and Fendi is in the space, providing room for another two luxury stores. Moreover, the property will be process of building a unit. marketed more intensively, particularly to international tourists. The first Kate Spade store in Hawaii will open at the center, occupying 2,816 The two-year-old center is in the heart of Honolulu’s Waikiki retail and hotel dis- square feet, and a new 2,000-square-foot Tourneau store is set to open as well. Furla is WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005 9

WWD.COM and Retailers Build there’s optimism and renewed confidence in the state’s economy.

Kalakaua Avenue Several luxury retailers have dramatically increased the size of their stores at the Ala Moana Center.

Kalakaua Avenue building a 1,000-square-foot shop. And Pacific Harley-Davidson is expanding its store to feature more of its clothing and accessories. “Waikiki has not seen this much tenant interest in 10 years,” said Kim Scoggins, a leasing agent with Colliers Monroe Friedlander. “People are positive and willing to make commit- ments for the future.” Outrigger Beach Walk, a $460 million mixed-use project billed as having something for everyone, is one of the largest transfor- mations Waikiki has seen in decades. While several hotel demoli- tions will temporarily bring down the room count, Waikiki will gain a 195-unit Fairfield time-share, a 421-unit Embassy Suites hotel and an entertainment and retail complex scheduled to open next fall. The plaza will include 40 stores occupying 90,000 square feet of retail space, four restaurants and a promenade. General Growth Properties, which owns Ala Moana, the largest shopping center in Hawaii, purchased Victoria Ward for $250 mil- lion in 2002 and plans to invest $100 million on redeveloping its Ward Village Shops. With 200,000 square feet of proposed new re- tail space, the Ward Village site will boast a total of 800,000 square feet, becoming the third-largest shopping center in Oahu. A residential component will add 10 floors of rental units. Other retailers with plans to open stores in Hawaii include Jimmy Choo, Just Cavalli, Samantha Thavasa and Vera Wang, who has already designed a bridal suite in her signature style at the Halekulani resort through a deal with the resort’s management. She also has plans to open a boutique at the resort. KALAKAUA AVENUE PHOTOS BY ROYALTY FREE/CORBIS; ALA MOANA CENTER BY DOUGLAS FREE/CORBIS; ALA PEEBLES/CORBIS MOANA CENTER BY ROYALTY PHOTOS BY AVENUE KALAKAUA 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

SECTION II WWD.COM ICSC PREVIEW Lower Manhattan Ready to Bloom Nearly $10 million in real estate construction is getting ready to break ground.

By Amy S. Choi Conceptual images of the Santiago Calatrava-designed NEW YORK — NEW YORK CITY RETAIL DEVELOPERS ARE IN A POSITION OF World Trade Center Transportation Hub. immense opportunity, afforded to them by an act of terror. After Sept. 11, 2001, retail in Lower Manhattan was effectively wiped out. The only major retail corridors in the financial district were in the World Trade Center and the World Financial Center. With those gone, business people, tourists and the burgeoning number of residents in Lower Manhattan were without a place to grab a quick bite to eat, much less buy a pair of shoes or a shirt, unless they wanted to hazard the destination shoppers at designer-discount giant Century 21. More than four years later, the retail landscape — or lack thereof — is virtual- ly the same. The neighborhood, however, is vastly different, and aching for retail. Lower Manhattan, typically defined by the real estate community as south of Chambers Street, is the fastest-growing residential neighborhood in the city, and has a residential component bigger than the chic and retail-packed Gramercy area. According to real estate brokerage firm GVA Williams, there are currently 5,000 more residential units either under construction or on the drawing boards. But the shopping options for young single professionals and young families consist mainly of an Ann Taylor and Nine West by Battery Park, and a Gap and a few other specialty stores in the South Street Seaport. “The demand for good shops and services is there, but there aren’t any new stores,” said Faith Hope Consolo, chairman of the retail leasing and sales division for Prudential Douglas Elliman, a brokerage firm. “There are some obvious demands, not just for fashion and restaurants, but for a great supermarket, or lifestyle stores, like home accessories and furniture.” Retailers interested in expanding in the financial district aren’t lacking for options. According to the Downtown Alliance, there is nearly $10 billion in real The Port Authority authorized the planning and preliminary design work for up to 200,000 square feet of retail in the Santiago Calatravo-designed World Trade Center Transportation Hub, which developers hope will become a kind of Grand Central South.

estate construction either breaking ground or planned for in and around the World Trade Center site, totaling 10 million square feet of commercial develop- ment and 500,000 square feet of retail. It’s the equivalent of space for two major regional shopping malls, in one of the densest neighborhoods in the country. And although development downtown has been plagued for years by communi- ty groups, politicians’ agendas and insurance and legal battles, it appears that retail is finally getting a kick-start. Though there have been no commitments from retailers yet, the city’s retail redevelopment effort was launched officially at the end of October this year by the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, which to happen, but tenants are all holding their breath to wait and see what Ground owns and operates the site. Zero will offer.” The Port Authority authorized the planning and preliminary design work for up Some retailers have dipped their toes in the waters downtown: DKNY, J.Crew, to 200,000 square feet of retail in the Santiago Calatrava-designed World Trade Talbots and Barneys Co-op all flirted with spaces in Lower Manhattan, but none Center Transportation Hub, which developers hope will become a kind of Grand could commit. Central South. Design is to be completed by next spring, and the first retail stores “Retailers don’t necessarily like to be pioneers,” said Clifford Molloy, senior are expected to be open by 2010. managing director at GVA Williams. “But any one successful retailer or depart- But still, space issues and a lack of critical mass plague the progress of fashion ment store could be a great catalyst to the region.” in the financial district. “A lot of people are circling Lower Manhattan,” said Consolo. “Everybody “It could be a great retail plan that gets executed downtown,” said Robert wants to replace the retail down there and everybody sees the potential. But some- Futterman, president of Robert K. Futterman & Associates LLC, a retail brokerage body has to take the plunge. One large retailer just needs to step up.” firm. “But it might be wishful thinking. You get the feeling that things are starting The expense of the real estate certainly isn’t stopping them. Though it is impos- sible to predict rents in the yet-to-be-developed World Trade Center, retail rents elsewhere in the financial district average $100 per square foot, which is far less than anywhere else in the city, said Consolo. Still, the kinds of spaces currently available in Lower Manhattan are hardly ideal for fashion. Though the concourse at the trade center transportation hub should be well designed for retail, most of the office buildings aren’t configured well for spe- cialty stores or other types of apparel or footwear tenants. Usually large spaces with limited frontage, they are better suited for restaurants or showrooms, such as Cipriani or BMW, both of which opened up impressive downtown locations recently. More appealing options might soon become available outside of the World Trade Center, as well. The South Street Seaport is rumored to undergo a major renovation. According to brokers, General Growth Properties Inc. will unveil a new plan in December to rejuvenate the retail and restaurants there. General Growth took over the seaport when it acquired the Rouse Co., which was the original developer. Futterman also hinted that there is a significant real estate development that will be announced in January that will house a “tremendous” retail component of up to 200,000 square feet. “Downtown just needs one block like the Meatpacking District or SoHo,” said Consolo. “A couple of cutting-edge fashion and accessories stores, or good home furnishings to cover the whole spectrum could make the whole area wake up. The

PHOTOS BY GETTY IMAGES potential is there and the customer is there.”

12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2005

SECTION II WWD.COM ICSC PREVIEW

The “Narnia” experience will be re-created at 11 shopping centers.

Taubman Decks Its Halls “The Chronicles of Narnia” is coming to a mall near you.

By David Moin with Santa and a “green screen” so visitors can be photographed to make it seem as if they’re standing in a Narnia winter scene. There are also photo-related NEW YORK — TO GET TO SANTA AT CERTAIN TAUBMAN CENTER PROPERTIES products, like frames, for sale. this holiday season, there’s a snowy detour through the magical kingdom of Narnia. Taubman unveiled the Narnia landscapes on Nov. 16, in advance of the Dec. 9 Giant walk-through snow globes and walk-through trees in the common areas of release date for the movie. Narnia can be visited at the Beverly Center in Los 11 Taubman malls provide a different kind of Christmas tableau. They feature im- Angeles; Cherry Creek Shopping Center in Denver; Dolphin Mall in Miami; Fair ages and sounds from the upcoming movie “The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, Oaks Mall in Fairfax, Va.; International Plaza in Tampa; MacArthur Center in The Witch and The Wardrobe,” based on the first of the C.S. Lewis series of novels. Norfolk, Va.; Northlake Mall in Charlotte, N.C.; The Mall at Wellington Green in Each mall has a 22-foot-high and 22-foot-wide clear, Plexiglas snow globe that’s Wellington, Fla.; Westfarms in Farmington, Conn.; The Shops at Willow Bend in rigged with a rush of cold Narnia air, falling snow, trees crystallized to appear Plano, Tex., and The Mall at Short Hills in Short Hills, N.J. covered in ice and a mobile with two giant snowflakes holding LCD monitors run- Taubman Centers, a real estate investment trust that owns and/or manages 23 ning a continuous trailer of the movie and the soundtrack. The falling snowflakes shopping centers around the country, plans to place the big snow globes in all of are edible and biodegradable, disintegrating as they land. its properties next year, but at this point has not decided how they will be deco- An 18-foot-high walk-through tree serves as the introduction, leading to the rated. It’s possible they will be themed after another book or movie. The Narnia snow globe. Inside the tree, there’s a video greeting from the film’s director, project was limited this year to 11 malls because of commitments in Taubman’s Andrew Adamson, who also directed “Shrek,” and props and memorabilia from other centers to other Christmas setups. “The Chronicles of Narnia.” “The snow globes each year will provide a new holiday component,” After the tree comes a wardrobe section, then the oversized snow globe, which MacDonald said. “It could be entertainment-related, possibly involving a movie is followed by three smaller snow globes, each six feet wide by eight feet high, or a book, but it’s difficult to say now. Usually the holiday display is geared just with lifelike replicas of characters from the movie. toward children, but the great thing about our Narnia snow globes is that we have A total of 20,000 display lights decorate the trees and globes. created something for both children and adults. The book was written over 50 “The snow globes are a unique way to communicate directly with the con- years ago, so there are a lot of adults who know it. sumer. They’re very theatrical,” said Glenn Tilley, president of The Becker “Our goal is really to make our shopping centers a destination for the holiday Group, the “experiential marketing” firm that created the snow globes and and create something of an annual family tradition,” she added. “We started this Narnia landscape for Taubman. project about a year and a half ago. Visiting Christmas windows at stores is a fam- “It’s a 360-degree experience no matter where you are standing,” added Betty ily tradition. We want these snow globes to represent that same thought.” Bergeron, director of production for Becker. The Baltimore-based creative firm According to Janet Cesario, The Mall at Short Hills’ marketing director, about also has a Norman Rockwell exhibition touring the country based on the artist’s 100 million copies of “The Chronicles of Narnia” have been sold, so there should Saturday Evening Post covers. be strong interest in the movie and the globes. The movie was created by Walt According to Karen MacDonald, director of communications for Taubman, Disney Pictures and Walden Media. These companies also provided props from Narnia occupies about 1,200 to 1,600 square feet in each center, whereas the film, which is set in New Zealand, to the Taubman malls. Also, the cast and di- Christmas setups in the past, some with oversized toys, animal kingdoms or cas- rector recorded messages to enhance the impact of the snow globes. tles, occupied 600 to 1,000 square feet. “This is far more than your typical holiday walk-through display leading to Most people require 10 to 15 minutes to cover the 50- to 60-foot long Narnia ex- Santa,” said Cesario. “It’s a total experience that will whisk everyone off to a perience, said Tilley. At the end of the journey, there are photo opportunities spectacular fantasy land.”

14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2005

SECTION II WWD.COM ICSC PREVIEW Growing Fashion Demand in the ’Burbs Retailers find opportunities in a desert oasis outside of the Las Vegas limelight.

By Amy S. Choi Kristi Hastings, founder of Savvi and co-owner of Sassi. SUMMERLIN, Nev. — SUMMERLIN looks, at first glance, like a poor man’s South Florida. It’s all sun-scorched highways, low-rise residential develop- ments as far as the eye can see — at least until the desert meets the moun- tains — and baby palm trees, planted alongside the cranes putting up the next development. But this Las Vegas suburb is a gem of retail opportunity. Although Summerlin, which started out as a 22,000-acre development by the eccentric billionaire Howard Hughes, is only 20 minutes from the glittering neon of the strip and its mul- timillion-dollar hotels and casinos, it couldn’t be any more different, espe- cially in a retail context. That soon may change. Despite the booming population — according to local real estate execu- tives, roughly 29,000 new homes were sold in 2003 and 2004, and 31,000 are expected to be sold by yearend, while the value of homes has jumped 40 per- cent in just a year’s time — retail is currently limited to a few chain stores and restaurant options are only as high-end as PF Chang’s and Chili’s. “The suburbs are a kind of vacuum for better and upper retail and dining,” said Frank Volk, executive vice presi- dent of Robert K. Futterman & Associates, a New York-based specialty retail brokerage firm that recently opened an outpost in Las Vegas. “There are a few vignettes of retail, but the total square footage of retail in Summerlin is maybe 500,000 square feet.” Some luxury fashion retailers, in- cluding Louis Vuitton and Tiffany, have ventured off the strip to ex- AMY S. CHOI PHOTO BY plore their options in the Volk. “But retailers are Sachs, while Sachs was shopping in But the most appealing aspect of Vegas suburbs, but no sig- starting to take account of her store. This past spring, they these shops, outside of the gems and nificant real estate deals the fact that our blue-col- opened Sassi. premium denim, are the social activi- have been made as of lar workforce, most of “There aren’t many chain stores ties they offer. The women that shop yet. Other high-end re- which works in the here, so we differentiate ourselves there all know each other by name, tailers are less risk- gaming industry, have from other boutiques by being more and soon their men will, too: In averse. Whole Foods and income levels near or fun, more casual,” said Hastings. “But December, Hastings and Sachs are Pottery Barn both have above the standard even among the boutiques, we all try to hosting a shopping party in conjunc- popular stores in the area, and white-collar level. A help each other out.” tion with the Make-a-Wish Foundation. Whole Foods is slated to open anoth- valet parker and a cock- The close relationship the shop Women can send their husbands and er store in Summerlin soon. tail waitress working in the gaming owners have with each other extends boyfriends with “wish lists” to either of One obstacle to setting up shop in industry can have a joint household in- to their customers. On a visit to the the shops, where the men will be en- Summerlin is that many of these na- come of $200,000 a year.” store, Hastings was calling distributors tertained by models in lingerie, cock- tional chains have to break their own With the dispensable cash and the for individual clients, and knew the tails and music. Twenty percent of any rules in order to take advantage of the lack of shopping options in the ’burbs, shoppers names — and sizes. She’ll shopping they do will go toward the booming growth in regions here or in most Vegas women spend their money also let customers browse in either of Make-a-Wish Foundation. other high-growth areas elsewhere in in Los Angeles or San Diego rather the stores without any employee su- “We’re doing all kinds of new things the Sunbelt. than deal with tourists on the strip. pervision, which brings to light the with the store. The boutique is still “We deal with a lot of retailers that Locals understand this, of course. small-town trust, even among pricy changing,” said Hastings. have requirements as far as college ed- And for all of the national retail chains merchandise. As is the neighborhood, as a whole. ucation levels, household salary and reluctant to invest in towns such as Though she kept mum on sales at General Growth, which owns the glitzy other demographics that don’t match Summerlin, there are local fashion- Sassi, Hastings typically brings in be- Fashion Show on Las Vegas Boulevard, the profiles of residents in Vegas,” said istas opening stores and capturing cus- tween $40,000 and $60,000 a month in in addition to the Canal Shops and the tomers — and, interestingly, helping sales at Savvi, where she sells anything retail in the upcoming Palazzo, con- Editor’s Note: This is the fourth in an build the communities in these fledg- from $125 ribbed tanks from Allen B. to trols the remaining 7,000 acres of un- occasional series of articles in which ling towns. $162 Red Engine distressed denim. developed land in Summerlin, and has WWD visits markets “off the beaten Kristi Hastings, boutique owner in Other labels, all at similar price points, plans for more retail — the Summerlin path” of the regular retail and fashion Summerlin, is the founder of Savvi, a include Hale Bob, David Kahn, Town Center is expected to be no less haunts of New York, Chicago and Los trendy apparel store, and co-owner of Michael Stars and RocKandy, for than 1 million square feet. Angeles. In this series, which takes read- Sassi, an accessories shop. The two which she is the exclusive carrier in “We need to take into account ers on a journey across the U.S., WWD shops sit not more than 100 feet from the Vegas area. what’s at our other retail centers in will see how peripheral markets evolve, each other in a small strip mall, just In the accessories shop, which is Vegas, and see what’s appropriate to what brands are in demand, how retail- outside of new office construction and still trying to find its niche, the two Summerlin,” said General Growth ers merchandise their goods and what it across from a housing development. A carry Gussto Bags, which run upward chief executive officer John takes to thrive in these markets. Today, 10-year veteran of Las Vegas, Hastings of $700, studded leather belts for $200 Bucksbaum. “I think you’ll see there “On the Road With WWD” stops in opened Savvi two years ago. She met and candles embossed with vintage la- will be retailers in the Fashion Show Summerlin, Nev. her current business partner, Ann bels and Swarovski crystals for $120. who are also retailers in Summerlin.”

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