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Site History Memo DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNITY PLANNING, HOUSING & DEVELOPMENT Neighborhood Services Division – Historic Preservation Program 2100 Clarendon Boulevard, Suite 700, Arlington, VA 22201 TEL 703.228.3830 www.arlingtonva.us Memorandum To: Date: January 2, 2019 From: John Liebertz and Angelina Jones, Historic Preservation Planners Subject: 26th Street North - Old Dominion Drive Site Master Planning Task Force This memorandum outlines preliminary research on the history of the 7.6-acre County-owned land (subject property) and surrounding neighborhood at 26th Street North and Old Dominion Drive. The purpose of this information is to provide the task force a historic context regarding the development of the neighborhood and both the extant and lost built environment. The subject property is located partially within the Old Dominion neighborhood, primarily a residential neighborhood of single-family dwellings ranging from Queen Anne, Tudor Revival, Craftsman, Colonial Revival, Minimal Traditional, Spilt-Level, and Ranch-styled buildings. The area is an amalgamation of numerous subdivisions, the largest being Livingstone Heights and Lee Heights, developed from 1906 to the 1950s (when the neighborhood was primarily developed). 1850-1886, the Birch Family, Mary Ann Hall, and the Pelham Family The subject property is on land that was formerly owned by the Birch family (Figures 1-3).1 One of Arlington’s oldest families, the Birches originally came from England and settled in Northern Virginia owning land in the area by 1690.2 Joseph Birch married Janet Bowmaker Robertson in 1770, and through this union, the Birch family acquired land in this part of Arlington. In 1800, Caleb Birch built a log residence on a portion of land near the subject property that he inherited from his grandfather James Robertson, who originally received the property through a grant from Lord Fairfax in 1724.3 This first dwelling burned down and was subsequently replaced in 1836 by a new log building, which was expanded in the 1840s.4 In 1936, the house was reconstructed utilizing original logs and still stands at 4572 26th Street North. During the Civil War, Mary Ann Hall and the Birch family owned most of the land in proximity to the subject properties at 26th Street North and Old Dominion Drive (Figure 11). Born ca. 1815, 1 Additional research would need to be conducted to create an exhaustive list of all the Birch family members that owned portions of the subject property. 2 Eleanor Lee Templeman, Arlington Heritage: Vignettes of a Virginia County (New York: Avenel Books, 1959), 148. 3 Land Office Grants, “Robertson, James, grantee,” January 20, 1724, Online Catalog, Library of Virginia, http://lva.virginia.gov (accessed December 7, 2018). 4 Templeman, 156. Memorandum Page 2 of 60 Mary Hall, the sister of Basil Hall (the namesake of Hall’s Hill), purchased the 72-acre farm on October 20, 1853.5 The property served as her second residence with her primary dwelling in Washington, D.C. In all likelihood, enslaved persons lived at Hall’s farm in Arlington County. Prior to the signing of the Compensated Emancipation Act (which freed enslaved persons in the District of Columbia) on April 2, 1862, Hall owned at least four enslaved persons.6 By 1880, Mary Ann Hall’s farm near the subject property consisted of approximately 101 acres (80 acres improved and 21 acres woodland). The United States Federal Census noted the value of the Hall’s property (including the buildings) at $30,000.7 This is the approximate equivalent of $750,000 in 2018. Hall died on January 28, 1886. The National Republican noted that she had primarily resided at her farm in the County briefly returning to the city at the time of her death.8 Other property owners within or in proximity to the subject area included Amelia Marcey, J.J. McAullife, Susan Fletcher, and the Pelham family.9 While most African Americans lived to the south of the subject area in the Hall’s Hill/High View Park neighborhood, the Pelham family lived in the present-day boundary of the Old Dominion Civic Association. Moses Pelham, Sr., (1827-1892) moved to the County from Culpepper, Virginia in 1871, acquired property from Robert Phillips, and married Isabelle Washington in 1874. The Pelhams (and their six children) were instrumental in the establishment of Mount Salvation Baptist Church in Hall’s Hill/High View Park. Pelham subdivided his property and family members acquired adjacent parcels. The land and dwellings collectively became known as “Pelham Town.”10 5 Hall owned and operated one of the most prolific brothel houses in Washington, D.C., at 349 Maryland Avenue from at least the late 1830s to the time of her death. Hall amassed substantial wealth while largely evading legal punishment. On November 4, 1839, Hall was found not guilty of “keeping a house of ill fame” in Washington, D.C. On June 18, 1846, after three additional mistrials due to hung juries, Hall was found not guilty of a “rowdy and disorderly house.” In the 1860s, the Evening Star recorded numerous fights, disputes, and other events associated at the dwelling. On January 1, 1864, the police executed a bench warrant for the arrest of Mary Ann Hall. The following month, the court found her guilty of operating a “bawdy house” and fined her $2,000. Arlington County Land Records, “William A. Bradley et al to Mary Ann Hall,” October 20, 1853, Liber 6, Folio 510; Elizabeth Barthold O’Brien, “Illicit Congress in the Nation’s Capital: The History of Mary Ann Hall’s Brothel,” Historical Archaeology 39 no. 1 (March 2005), 47-58; “Heavy Raid Upon the Fancy – The Big Establishments Attended to – Mary Ann Hall and others of the Elite Marched to City Hall,” Evening Star, January 15, 1864, Newsbank; “District Supreme Court, Criminal Term,” Daily National Republican, February 20, 1864; “Good from Evil,” Evening Star, August 9, 1864, Newsbank. 6 Hall owned four enslaved persons, Rosana Gordon (whom she purchased in 1846) and her two children, and Caroline Lucas (whom she purchased in 1844). Additional research would need to be conducted to determine if any of her enslaved persons resided in Arlington County. Board of Commissioners – Emancipation of Slaves in D.C., “Mary Ann Hall,” www.Fold3.com; “Criminal Court,” Daily National Intelligencer, November 4, 1839, Newspaper Archive; “Criminal Court,” Daily National Intelligencer, November 4, 1839, Newspaper Archive; 7 United States Federal Census, “Mary Ann Hall,” (1880), www.ancestry.com; United States Federal Census Non- Population Schedules, “Hall, M.A.,” (1880), Ancestry. 8 “Mary Hall’s Estate,” National Republican, February 11, 1886, Chronicling America. 9 Map of Alexandria County, Virginia, for the Virginia Title Company, 1900. 10 Arlington County Historic Preservation Program, A Guide to the African American Heritage of Arlington County, Virginia (Arlington, Virginia: Department of Community Planning, Housing and Development, 2016), 19. Memorandum Page 3 of 60 1888-1928, Presley Marion Rixey, U.S. Surgeon General, U.S. Navy In 1888, Presley Marion and Earlena J. (nee English) Rixey acquired the property located to the northwest of the subject property as a summer/country residence (Figures 10-14). Rixey served as the Surgeon General of the United States Navy (1902-1910) and White House Physician to Presidents William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt.11 Rixey noted that the property had been primarily wooded at the time of purchase and the remainder had been overgrown. After improving the quality of the soil, Rixey built a barn and established a dairy farm on the property, eventually totaling forty head of cattle. Operations shifted towards a larger property in Falls Church in the early twentieth century.12 Rixey hosted President Roosevelt and his family at the farm. Roosevelt wrote the following letter on March 18, 1907, to Mrs. Rixey to thank her for her continued hospitality at the property: In the confusion of Archie’s sickness, I doubt if I even thanked you for the sausage. And let me know, my dear Mrs. Rixey, thank you for the many, many kindnesses which you have shown over and over again to my children. They are all your debtors, and Washington would have been a very different thing for all of them had it not been for the Virginia farm and the two dear people who own it.13 Circa 1907, the house built by Mary Hall, named “Netherfauld,” burned (Figure 11).14 Rixey delayed building a new house for several years as other responsibilities arose. After suffering serious health issues toward the end of World War I, Rixey rehabilitated at the cottage located on the property (Figure 12) and upon improved health constructed the mansion. Noted local architect Frank Upman furnished the design and Arthur L. Smith & Company built the house (Figures 13-15). Construction started on August 11, 1919, and was completed on March 15, 1921.15 The Washington Post described plans for the house: The plans contemplate extensive improvements to the large grounds, which are conceded to be among the most picturesque and best located in the environs of the Capital. The site affords magnificent views of long stretches of the Potomac and Maryland hills…. Buildings to be erected include a garage, stable, extensive conservatories and greenhouses, gardener’s and chauffeur’s cottages, and several other outbuildings. A central heating plant to furnish heat for all buildings is to be located in the greenhouses. The residence is to be of hollow tile construction with stucco finish and tile roof.16 11 Ludwig M. Deppisch, The White House Physician: A History from Washington to George W. Bush (North Carolina: McFarland & Company, Inc., 2007), 69-70. 12 The Life Story of Presley Marion Rixey, Surgeon General, U.S. Navy, 1902-1910: Biography and Autobiography (Shenandoah Publishing House, 1930), 380.
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