57 © Lonely Planet Publications Tuusulanjärvi AREA: 227,420 SQ KM

Suomenlinna Helsinki

Park, Serena Water TELEPHONE CODE: 09

( p84 ) ( p66 ), ( p87 ) in and an exciting, dynamic place. Half the city seems to and an exciting, dynamic place. ( p63 ) ( p77 ) POPULATION: 4.7 MILLION POPULATION:

Tuusulanjärvi ( p78 ) Temppeliaukio

par excellence Serena Water Park Water Serena ( p91 ) beer terraces ( p62 ) and island Espoo, one of Europe’s best Espoo, one of Europe’s old steam city’s excellent and walking and picnicking among the ramparts Sibelius lived ), the lake where p88 ( an underground church hewn from solid rock an underground at the at a convivial POPULATION: 559,046 POPULATION: TELEPHONE CODE: 03 to concerts Listening at art both modern and old Finnish Appreciating to historic the ferry Taking Heading out on a boat for memorable dinner the kids to Taking circuit of Enjoying a leisurely Porvoo Chuff-chuffing down to lovely on the in the summer sun one of Luxuriating

Helsinki is cool without – as yet – being self-consciously so. Unlike other capitals, you senseHelsinki is cool without – as yet being self-consciously so. style of its The in Helsinki is older. While not an ancient place, much of what is loveable partly the days of because before of , to the rest feel different It has a very you sometimes won- In winter though, Helsinki has a dual nature. Like all of Finland, HIGHLIGHTS

Helsinki is a sea-town and the tortured geography of the coastline includes any number bays, inlets be water, harbour is the heart The of the city, and watching giant and a speckling of islands. glide into portferries is a defining memory and essential Helsinki experience. that people go to places because they enjoy them, not be seen. Much modern décor is ironic rather than trying too hard. stylishness by daring to differ and humorous, achieves preservationglorious Art buildings, the spacious elegance of its cafés, careful Nouveau changed neither menu that have of museums, heritage in its dozens of Finnish all partnor furnishings since the 1930s are of the city’s quirky charm. of the world. society it was the country’s sole point of contact almost with the rest hi-tech back again, packing In spring and summer they are green all the people are. der where spaces and outdoor tables to get a piece of blessed sun, whirring around on thousands of bicycles and kicking into overdrive. the city’s nightlife Helsinki HELSINKI bombing duringWWII,butinthe postwar ate Square). The citysuffered heavy Russian (Sen- neoclassicalSenaatintori the stately, design thecitycentre, which resulted in architect CL Engel wascalledontohelp sinki grew rapidlyinalldirections. German premier town. and asFinland’scapital status long-standing bour –andsoin1812classyTurkulostits called Suomenlinna)justoutsidethehar- large fortress of partbecause thesea (now domestic politics.Helsinki –in waschosen required, eyeonFinland’s tokeep acloser toStPetersburgduchy. closer Acapital was annexed Finlandasanautonomousgrand thefortressin taking later andayear ing thewarof 1808, theRussianssucceeded of theempire Follow- againstRussianattack. Sveaborg in1748toprotect theeastern part peninsula. TheSwedesbuiltafortress named a backwater market townonawindy,rocky Helsinki). founded Helsingfors (theSwedishnamefor other townswere tothenewly bundledoff royal decree traders fromEkenäs andafew trial atEkenäs proved unsuccessful,soby Hansa tradingtownof . Anearlier tav Vasa, wholonged tocreate arivaltothe Helsinki wasfoundedin1550byKingGus- HISTORY 58 In the19thandearly20thcenturies,Hel- For more than200years Helsinki remained HELSINKI••History theme byheadingout tooneofthecity’sexcellent of thebusyshopping streets and Mannerheimintieandthencontinuethe nautical perhaps withapicnic lunchifit’saniceday.Whenyouget back,soakinsomeoftheatmosphere Kiasma a trip to ( p81 ) ifyou’re ajazzperson, or the afternoon it’sgallerytime;the ( p67 ,beautifulbuildingsandtempting), withthestunningOrthodox eatingspots. In Lutheran Cathedral Astreet (market). intheatmosphere backfromheretake ofthekauppatori isthe Head downtooneofthe cafésonthe Two Days HELSINKI IN… architecture at the Beach to pay homagetomusic atthe undulatingcoastline. days,youcandelve With twoextra HeadpastHietaniemi deepintoHelsinki’s Four Days Don’t hit the town too hard, because the next morningyou’reDon’t hitthetowntoo hard,becausethenext onaboat to ( p62 ) hasacontemporary slantandagreat café/bartofinishupin. Porvoo ( p88 ) foritsbeautiful woodenbuildings andgorgeous riverside. open-airmuseum ( p66 ) whichdominates Senate Square, andnearbyis Tavastia Ateneum Sibelius Monument ( p81 ) ifyouprefer italittlerockier. Onyourlast day,take ( p63 ) showcasestheGolden Age ofFinnish and Art, ( p64 ). At night, checkoutwhat’son at office’s freeoffice’s walkingguide,while map. cycling mapsandapublictransport route free map of Helsinki, aswellwalkingand cansupplyagood The citytouristoffice Maps indicates.its populationstatistic reason whyHelsinki feels much bigger than fourth mostpopulouscitiesrespectively, one and airport, tothenorth–Finland’ssecond the westandVantaa, withtheinternational Surrounding satellite citiesincludeEspooto by bridge andferry withmanyof them. by anarchipelago of islets;there are links Helsinki isbuilt onapeninsulasurrounded ORIENTATION of theworst Augustrainfordecades! ships, which unluckilycoincidedwithsome city hosted theathleticsWorldChampion- with conference delegates andin2005the to thepresident. Itshotels are well-stocked of nationalparliamentandofficialhome seat city withaflourishing culturallife. Itisthe Helsinki hasprospered asaninternational forColdWardétente.term used Sincethen, dents celebrated their‘Helsinki Spirit’,a urbs were builtaroundHelsinki andresi- host theSummerOlympicGamesin1952. period Helsinki recovered andwentonto ( p77 ) forastrongFinnish coffee before you island restaurants In the1970sand1980s,manynewsub- See Helsinki OnFoot ( p70 insometraditional ), thentake ( p77 ). Island Katajanokka Suomenlinna www.lonelyplanet.com Tuomiokirkko isthetourist Storyville (p84), Helsinki

and hasheapsofterminals. good-qualityInternet access Lasapalatsi complex.Offers books pluscheapEnglishpaperbacks. andsecondhandbookshop.Rare Sat) Loveableantiquarian Fredrikinkatu 35; Fredrikinkatu Aleksanterinkatu 26; Aleksanterinkatu maps and general hiking maps. maps andgeneralhiking shop.Stocksatlases,roadmaps,topographical Sat) Map English-language selection andfree Internetterminals. English-language selection hasagood publiclibraries Sat) Themostcentralof Helsinki’s 3; Rikhardinkatu per hr€5; a bank ofquietterminals onthe 2ndfloor. 9am-4pm Sat)This impressive library isaserene place with 36;Internet free; Unioninkatu byphone. terminals andothersbookable half-hour main postoffice,bytherailwaystation.Several andITlibraryonthe1stfloorof hr summer)Music Mon-Thu, noon-6pmSat&Sun,shorter 10am-6pmFri, 2;admissionfree; 5000; Elielinkatu h entrance off Yliopistonkatu. entrance offYliopistonkatu. room withtwofree Internetterminals. Accesstherear galleryhasapeacefulreading 11am-5pm Sat&Sun)Theart Emergency Aleksi Karttakeskus Hagelstams Bokhandel Kirjakauppa Akateeminen Bookshops INFORMATION of andlistings. events Your Way www.lonelyplanet.com Library ofHelsinki University TeleCenter Library Rikhardinkadun mbar Library 10 7 Level 2; Kaivokatu Ateneum cafés andbars have oneterminal. atleast As listed here, wellasthose of several the Access Internet Police Emergency General a p64; Map an impressively largeEnglishsection. maps,FinnishThere’s ahuge travelsection, literature and bookshop inFinland and 9am-6pmSat,noon-6pmSun)Thebiggest Mon-Fri, cheap andfriendly. €2; h 1-10pm) Quickaccessamidsalvosofonlinegunfire. Mp p64; (Map ( 9am-9pm Mon-Sat,noon-8pm Sun)Slowishbut (Map (Map p64 ; % % h (Map p64 ; (Map (Map p64 postofficebldg; ; Main h (Map (Map p64 ; 10022) (alsofree) isavaluablebooklet 12141; Pohjoisesplanadi39; 9am-midnight, later at weekends) Inthe 9am-midnight, lateratweekends) h 9am-6pm Tue 9am-8pmWed&Thu, &Fri, h % % 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, & 10am-6pm Fri h % 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 6124 5420; 22; 6124 5420;Mannerheimintie ( (Map (Map p64 ; % 673 327; Vilhonkatu 5B;perhr€4; 673 327;Vilhonkatu % the 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 173 361; www.ateneum.fi; 173 361;www.ateneum.fi; Mp p64; (Map Mp p64; (Map placetogoforreading matter. 670 612; Vuorikatu 8;perhr 670 612;Vuorikatu 112) h (AcademicBookshop; ( 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, % h % % % 612 3456; 10am-10pm 1912 3196; h 3108 5013; 3108 5013; 649 291; % 9am-9pm 3108 station and on Pohjoisesplanadi. station andonPohjoisesplanadi. and nocommission.There are other offices atthetrain thebestrates,witha flat€2fee ontravellerscheques, Offers h denkatu 16; denkatu per load€6-8; Self-service laundrette. There’s a branch at Kalevankatu 45. laundrette. There’s abranchatKalevankatu Self-service Board. ish Tourist holds mail foramonth. and trainstations. Theadjacent poste restante office & Sun)The post officeisinthelarge buildingbetweenthe 1; nerheiminaukio A medicalcentre fornon-emergencies. 14; Sibeliuksenkatu all theinformationyoumightneed. Forex and a24-hourexchange machine. At theairportthere’s anexchange counter changers, whocharge alowercommission. travellers cheques money- isattheofficial city, butthebestplacetoexchange cashor the tofindthroughout plentiful andeasy Major banks(withinternational ATMs) are Money Yliopiston Apteekki Töölö HealthStation Hospital Maria Services Medical counters attheferry terminals. There are similarlockers andleft-luggage are toholdmostbackpacks. bigenough for small/large lockers –thelarge lockers itcosts€2/3 At thebusandtrainstation Luggage Left Easywash facilities. and someof thehostels have self-service Most Helsinki hotels offer laundryservice Laundry www.visitfinland.com www.hkl.fi www.helsinkiexpert.com www.hel.fi Resources Internet Main postoffice Main Post modation bookings, tickets and events listings. andevents tickets modation bookings, branch inthecitycentre ismore convenient. 5; Mannerheimintie p64; (Map % 8am-9pm summer, 8am-7pm Mon-Sat autumn-spring) 8am-9pm summer,8am-7pm Mon-Satautumn-spring) 4178 0300; Mannerheimintie 96; 4178 0300;Mannerheimintie (Map (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map h 6 M p64 ; Public transportation routesandfares. Public transportation Excellent Helsinki Citywebsite,withlinksto ExcellentHelsinki h 24hr) Foremergencymedicalassistance. Mp pp60-1; (Map 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, &Sat) 10am-6pmFri h Mp p64; (Map annerheimintie 10;www.forex.fi; annerheimintie h HELSINKI ••Information 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pmSat 7am-9pm Mon-Fri,

Mannerheimintie 8am-6pm Mon, 8am-4pm Tue-Fri) 8am-6pm Mon,8am-4pmTue-Fri) Mp pp60-1; (Map % InformationpagesoftheFinn- 406 982; Topeliuksenkatu 21; 21; 406 982;Topeliuksenkatu Sightseeingtours,accom- % h % 020-451 4400; Man- 7am-midnight) The 3106 3231;Lapinlah- h % Mp pp60-1; (Map 24hr); 310 5015; City Centre 59

HELSINKI ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

HELSINKI 60 4 6 1 3 2 5 HELSINKI HELSINKI Scandic GrandMarina...... Radisson SASRoyal...... Hotelli Helka...... Hotel Linna...... Hotel FinnapartmentsFenno...... Hotel Aurora...... Hotel Anna...... Hostel Stadion...... Hostel Satakuntatalo...... Hilton HelsinkiStrand...... Eurohostel...... Accome Tölö...... Academica SummerHostel...... ...... Museum...... Töölönlahti RecreationalCentre...... ...... Sinebrychoff MuseumofForeignArt... Sibelius Monument...... St John’sChurch...... Parliament House...... Olympic SwimmingStadium...... Finland...... Natural HistoryMuseum...... Museum ofWorkerHousing...... Maritime Museum...... ...... Linnanmäki...... Kotiharjun Sauna...... Kansallismuseo...... Icebreaker Fleet...... Helsinki Zoo...... Hakasalmi Villa...... Finlandia Talo...... Design Museum...... Cygnaeus Gallery...... Burgher’s House...... Brahen kenttä...... Boat Hire...... Yliopiston Apteekkipharmacy...... Töölö HealthStation...... Seksuaalinen tasavertaisus...... Russian Embassy...... Norwegian Embassy...... Maria Hospital...... Latvian Embassy...... French Embassy...... (see1) Finnsov Tours...... Estonian Embassy...... Easywash...... Easywash...... British Embassy...... (see1) Australian Consulate...... American Embassy...... Sopakeittiö...... Sipuli...... (see 63) Sea Horse...... Satkar...... Saslik...... Nokka...... Mt Everest...... Kuu...... Konstan Möljä...... Kolme Kruunua...... Knossos...... Kabuki...... Café Ursula...... Café Carusel...... Boathouse...... ,SportsMuseumof etuatBleu...... F4 Restaurant Bellevue...... D3 Manala...... EATING EATING SLEEPING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION INFORMATION ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ABCD Helsinki ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ Helsinki ὄὈὈ ὄ 68 68 67 67 66 66 65 65 64 64 63 63 62 62 61 61 60 60 59 59 58 58 57 57 56 56 55 55 54 54 53 53 52 52 51 51 50 50 49 49 48 48 47 47 46 46 45 45 44 44 43 43 42 42 41 41 40 40 39 39 38 38 37 37 36 36 35 35 34 34 33 33 32 32 31 31 30 30 29 29 28 28 27 27 26 26 25 25 24 24 23 23 22 22 21 21 20 20 19 19 18 18 17 17 16 16 15 15 14 14 13 13 12 12 11 11 10 10 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1

F4 C1 D1 C3 D5 B2 E5 D3 D1 C1 D3 E1 H3 F5 D1 F1 D3 G4 H3 D3 D3 E5 F5 F3 E1 D2 C1 C2 C4 F5 D6 C4 D6 C3 F5 D4 C1 D3 F6 E2 E5 D5 E5 F4 D4 C2 C5 F3 D5 C4 F6 E6 E6 G4 D4 C3 D4 F1 D1 E5 C1 D4 F2 G4 D3 C4

Linnan Läns To Espoo (2km); Seurasaari(3km); Tamminiemen Kahvila German Embassy(4km) Museum (2km); To UrhoKekkonen (12km) & Museums(300m) To Tennispalatsi...... Tavastia &Semi-Final.... Storyville...... Orion Theatre...... Opera House...... Juttutupa...... Highlight...... Helsingin Jäähalli...... Stadium...... DTM...... We GotBeef...... Rytmi...... Roska Pankki...... Kola...... Carelia...... omAbr...... D4 Room Albert...... ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING DRINKING Hietaniemi Hietaniemi

Seurasaarenselkä

Cemetery

Porkkalankatu iväylä Merikannontie

koskenkatu To Seta(1.3km) Sibelius Park

Ὀ Ὀ

Hietaniemenkatu

34 Mechelininkatu 13 Nordenskiöldinkatu 84 84 83 83 82 82 81 81 80 80 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71 70 70 69 69 Ruoholahti 12

Humalistonkatu3 Arena (1.5km) To Hartwall Eteläinen

Eino Leinonkatu

D4 D4 D3 D4 D2 E2 D4 C1 C1 E5 E5 E2 F1 F1 C2 Pohjoinen Topeliuksenkatu T öl

38 Olympia FerryTerminal...... Terminal)...... Katajanokka Ferry Terminal... Kanava FerryTerminal...... (Underground)...... Hertz...... Budget Rent-a-Car...... Avis...... aaa(a etl...... F2 Länsiterminaali (WestFerry Lacara (carrental)...... BusStation TRANSPORT TRANSPORT Hietasaarenkuja Hietaniemenkatu Sibe

8

Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ liuksenkatu ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Leppäsuon Urheilukatu 77 Runeberginkatu 76 Töölöntori Hesperiankatu

40 Apollonkatu

92 Runeberginkatu Hesperiankatu

Töölönkatu Lapinlahdenkatu

85 Museokatu

katu Temppelikatu 45 59 6 36 69

60 56 Malminkatu

11 Arkadiankatu Lapinrinne 50

Mänty 44

Eerikinkatu 30

Kalevankatu Mannerheimintie

87 57 Nervanderinkatu

Lönnrotinkatu 41 Kamppi www.lonelyplanet.com

62 80 mä 51 31 Flea Market

Pohjoinen Talvipuutarha

Hietalahti

2 29 entie olah Ruoh 4 Botanical

Gardens 86 61 City Winter denranta 37 84 49 93 92 92 91 91 90 90 89 89 88 88 87 87 86 86 85 85 Gardens ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ

78 Fredrikinkatu 82 23 81 88 Salomonkatu 32 Helsinginkatu F5 C5 G4 F4 D4 D2 D4 C4 Töölönlahti 66 83 71 Rautatienkatu 35

Merimiehenk 14

19

Telakkakatu Uudenmaankatu

Merikatu E ira Annankatu Simonkatu 20

atu Albertinkatu Bulevardi 25 47 7 9 Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ www.lonelyplanet.com 74

Station Train Eläintar ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ Iso-Roobertinkatu ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Tehtaankatu Ratakatu 75 Sirpalesaar Laivurinkatu Kirstinkuja

Kaivokatu han 28

Vilhonkatu

54 Keskuskatu Kaisaniemi

ientori Rautat- Huvilakatu tie 46 Yliopistonkatu

Erottajankatu K alio

Merisatamanranta Yrjönkatu Helsinginkatu

Kaisaniemi

University FH EF

Merikatu Mikonkatu Botanical Gardens Linja Toinen 33

Aleksanterinkatu

Park Korkeavuorenkatu ninkatu Kirstinkatu

Kaptee Pohjoisesplanadi Esplanad Park Kais

Liuskasaari Suonionkatu 67 Hakaniemi Eteläesplanadi aniemen

73

79 18 53

Kasarmikatu Church 65

katu Kallio Fabianinkatu

Neitsytpolku See CentralHelsinkiMap(p64) Hakaniemi Ὀ ὈὈ

Siltasaarenkatu Market 15

Tähtitorninkatu (Senate Square) Senaatintori Unioninkatu 68 Porthaninkatu

Hämeentie Agricolankatu Puistokatu Kaarlenkatu Pohjoinen 43 Uunisaari 91

72 (Fish Market) 48

10 Kauppatori Snellmaninkatu 70

Kirkkokatu Puistotie Helsinki Liisankatu

Itänen Mauri

16 Park Laiv Harakka

asilla

katu

n Mariankatu nkatu

24 Pohjoisranta 17 58 Somäinen

93 Sörnäisten rantatie

39 Eteläsatama Kanavakatu

55 Pohjoisranta 89 26 5 63 64 To VantaaAirport(19km); 1

Laivastokatu Valkosaari (105km) (Klippan) Luoto K atjnok 52 0 0 90 Finland Gulf of Tervasaari G

42 Merikasariminkatu To Directorateof Immigration (50m) 22 ὈὈ ὈὈ To Itäkeskusswimming To Suomenlinna (2km) hall (8km); Camping (10km); HELSINKI Porvoo (50km) 0.5 miles Hylkysaari 21

27 Itäväylä 1 km

4 6 1 3 2 5 61 HELSINKI HELSINKI cottages aroundthecountry. you canbuymapsandfishinglicencesorrent wilderness areas and hiking maps fornationalparksandprotected the Finnish Ithasinformationand Forest andPark Service. officeofMetsähallitus, 10am-3pm Sat)ThisistheHelsinki www.metsa.fi; Eteläesplanadi20; €0.10 perminutetootherEuropeancountries. fromabout cabins andcheapinternationalrates,starting h around Finland and fortraveltoTallinn andStPetersburg. fortrain,busandferry travel rooms andpurchasetickets deskwhere youcanbookhotel TourExpert is theHelsinki with agreat quantityofinformationonthecity.Alsohere Busymultilingualoffice 10am-4pm Sat&SunOct-Apr) 9am-6pmMon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat&SunMay-Sep, Mon-Fri, Pohjoisesplanadi19; www.hel.fi/tourism; a mobilephone. using aprepaid phonecardatanypublictelephone,oreven can placecallsfromhere, butit’scheapertocalloverseas Onthe2ndfloorinmainpostofficebuilding. You Fri) Russia andbeyond ontheTrans-Siberian. to 26)Specializes intrain routesfrom Helsinki Kasarmikatu travel arrangementsand helpwithvisas. 15) Oneofthemore establishedoperators, providingtours, Tours Finnsov Russiaandbeyond. States, to theBaltic From Helsinki youcaneasilyarrange trips Agencies Travel Tikankontti and otherpointsaroundthecity. lish Week free touristbrochures such as linguals foranytouristinformation. multi- useful their green bibs–collarthese ‘Helsinki Helpers’ wanderingaroundin uniformed In summeryou’llprobably see Information Tourist TeleCenter office telephone Main Telephone 62 Traveller Travels Kilroy Expert Helsinki .com; Kaivokatu 10C) Specializes in student and budget travel. Specializes instudentandbudget travel. 10C) .com; Kaivokatu Helsinki City Tourist Office CityTourist Helsinki Helsinki (see Card right ). can findup-to-date informationonthe tourist office. tourist Finland andtoTallinn andStPetersburg. It’sinthecity Thisisanagency handlingtravelaround .helsinkiexpert.fi) At Apart fromthetouristoffice publications, HELSINKI••Sights 9am-9pm Mon-Sat,noon-8pmSun)Acallcentre with are available bookshops attouristoffices, (publishedmonthly)and Helsinki Expert Helsinki (Map (Map p64 ; (Map (Map p64 ; (Map (Map p64 ; (Map p64 ; (Map (Map pp60-1 ; (Map (Map p64 ; % % % % (Map (Map p64 ; 660 002;www.traveller.fi;

670 612; Vuorikatu 8; 670 612;Vuorikatu (www.helsinkiexpert.fi) % 270 5221,0203-44122; 680 7811;www.kilroytravels % Mp p64; (Map 2288 1222;www h 436 6960; Museokatu 436 6960;Museokatu h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Helsinki This h 9am-5pm Mon- % City inEng- 9am-8pm 169 3757; you pick upthe a few attractions.Forafulllist, stand-out specialized formostvisitors, butthere are of Finnishpreschool strategies), are too ing designedbySteven Hollis quirkychalk-white build- In thecurvaceous, KIASMA MUSEUM OFCONTEMPORARY ART the touristoffice. pers) andthe (covering thehistoryof Finnishnewspa- ums, andsome,such asthe around allof Helsinki’s 40orsomuse- It wouldtake agoodfew daystoget &Galleries Museums SIGHTS hugely popular,localssunbathe onthe terrace arein summer–itscaféandbeer shop. outside thegoodmuseum also check outthecoolhandwritten clock extra) onthegroundfloor,where you can a changing programme(tickets usuallycost lection onthe3rdfloorandatheatre with themes. There’s agrowingpermanentcol- arts andmediaexhibitswithsomebizarre changing exhibitionsfeature strikingvisual The focusisdefinitely and ontheoffbeat, modern artfromthe1960stopresent. ing collectionof Finnishandinternational versy in1998andexhibitsarapidlygrow- Tue) under 18yr€5.50/free; % Kiasma is a popular local meeting point Kiasma isapopularlocalmeeting R-kiosks and transport terminals. andtransport R-kiosks counts) at thecitytouristoffice orathotels, the card(and abrochure outliningthe dis- and seeseveral museums inahurry. Buy the sightseeingbus tourtoSuomenlinna only consideritif you are going totake will needlotsofplanning tosave money; and €10/13/16for children (7to16).You 24/48/72 hourscosts €25/35/45foradults andTallinn.tours toPorvoo Acardvalidfor anddiscountsonday and aroundHelsinki travel, entrytomore in than50attractions money. This passentitlesyoutourban Card cansave out,theHelsinki youpicked ing, oreven have places a few particular If youintend todosomeserious sightsee- HELSINKI CARD . Itopenedtomuch fanfare andcontro- 1733 6501; www.kiasma.fi; Mannerheiminaukio 2;adult/ Mannerheiminaukio 1733 6501;www.kiasma.fi; Museums Kindergarten Museum Museum Kindergarten h 10am-8.30pm Wed-Sun, 9am-5pm 10am-8.30pm Wed-Sun,9am-5pm booklet(free) from www.lonelyplanet.com Kiasma News Museum (history

(Map p64; (Map

h 34;adult/child€5.50/free;lismuseo.fi; Mannerheimintie evardi 40; admission €3,with exhibitions €7; evardi 9am-8pm Wed&Thu,11am-5pmSatSun) student/child €7.50/6.50/free; p64; of Finland; Map pp60-1 impressive ; The KANSALLISMUSEO thing aroundtheMannerheim statue. grassy fringes andskateboarders dotheir www.lonelyplanet.com the old paintings inFinlandison thepremises of The largest collection of classic European SINEBRYCHOFF MUSEUMOF FOREIGNART The listof painters at the ATENEUM stake intothegiantpike. one of theheroVäinämöinen plunginga scenes fromtheepic arches (byAkseli Gallen-Kallela) depict tions. Thesuperbfrescoes ontheceiling relics, ethnographyandculturalexhibi- historic andarchaeological finds,church periods of Finnish history,includingpre- is dividedintoroomscovering different extensively renovated in2000.Themuseum mantic styleandopenedin1916,butwas inNationalRo- specifically asamuseum tower. Itwasactuallydesignedandbuilt with itsheavy square stoneworkandtall building, looksabitlike aGothicchurch north of the mausoleum-like parliament itself dates from1887. itself bookshop andreading room.Thebuilding foreign art.Downstairs isacafé,good collection of 19th-andearly-20th-century Aino. There’s also asmallbutinteresting ing Väinämöinen’s pursuit of the maiden Kallela’s triptych fromthe Pride of tothe prolificGallen- placegoes brothersVon Wright andPekka Halonen. , Gallen-Kallela, Akseli the century tothe1950sincludingworks by ish paintingsandsculptures fromthe18th a ‘who’swho’of Finn- .Ithouses daily, the (Map p64 ), theHQof thefamousHelsinki well aspopularshops, bars andcafés. a glassy,coolspacethathasexhibitionsas andAntti-Matti Narjus Sarlotta Sikula,it’s Behind theKiasmais Behind 11am-8pm Tue-Wed, 11am-6pmThu-Sun) % 173 361; www.ateneum.fi; Kaivokatu 2; adult/ 173 361;www.ateneum.fi;Kaivokatu brewery brewery Helsingin Sanomat Kansallismuseo (Map pp60-1 ; pp60-1 ; (Map % , h 4050 9544;www.kansal Kalevala 9am-6pm Tue &Fri, % . Designedby

(National Museum Ateneum 1733 6460; Bul- including Sanomatalo reads like h depict- , just

10am- (Map (Map

8305; www.kaapelitehdas.fi; Tallberginkatu8305; www.kaapelitehdas.fi; 1C) lain andcrystal. Gustavian styleandcollections of porce- and includesperiodroomsfurnished in Flemish andSwedishinoriginrily Italian, exhibitions. Themaincollectionisprima- Sun &byappointment) 14;admission €7; 443; Kalliolinnantie h 8;adult/child€3/free; 9628; www.nba.fi; Kalliolinnantie Mp p64; (Map The citycentre AMOS ANDERSONARTMUSEUM 19th century,this If you’re lookingforFinnish artfromthe GALLERY CYGNAEUS Sun) ( massive The KAAPELITEHDAS Sun) 6pm Tue 10am-8pmWed-Thu, &Fri, 11am-5pmSat& h This fascinating MUSEUM MANNERHEIM as specialexhibitions. tury tothepresent, furnished roomsaswell paintings andsculptures fromthe15thcen- his time. ItincludesFinnishandEuropean Anderson, oneof thewealthiestFinnsof the collectionof publishing magnate Amos the souvenirs fromMannerheim’s life are Finnish army andCivil Warvictor. Among president, Commander inChief of the the home of CGE Mannerheim, former photographic exhibitions. heim Museum. heim Museum. in Kaivopuisto Park, totheManner- close attractive woodenbuilding(built in1870) of Finland’soldest artgalleries.It’sinan place togo. Itopenedin1882andisone to Ruoholahti stop. 8, bus15,20,21,65Aor66A,themetro theatre anddanceperformances.Take tram centre featuring studios,galleries, concerts, the 1980s.It’snowabohemian cultural and later becameNokia’smainfactoryuntil cable formanufacturingsea was onceused Porkkalankatu andonthewaytoEspoo, cluding the % There here, are museums in- several 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat &Sun) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Wed,11am-4pmThu-Sun) , which mountsinteresting temporary , which alsohasexcellenttemporary 6866 3621;adult/child€5/free; % 684 4460; Yrjönkatu 27;adult/child€7/free; 684 4460;Yrjönkatu Kaapelitehdas Kaapelitehdas Finnish Museum ofPhotography Finnish Museum inKaivopuisto Park was Amos Anderson Amos AndersonArt museum gallery HELSINKI ••Sights

(Cable Factory; Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map h h noon-7pm Tue- 11am-4pm Fri- isagreat houses houses % % % , off 4050 4763 635 63

HELSINKI ὈὈ ὈὈ

HELSINKI air West of isanopen- thecentre, Seurasaari MUSEUM OPEN-AIR SEURASAARI lowed floorclean. and free plasticbootiestokeep thehal- (around onehour)inof sixlanguages, a mandatorybutenthusiasticguided tour fortwoyears.faithful horse Entryincludes ridingthesame from SamarkandtoBeijing, he travelled 14,000kmalongtheSilkRoute photographs fromhistrip to Asia when hundreds of medals,aswell military 64 24 from the central . ki’s biggest Midsummer bonfires. Take bus with the best.It’salsoavenue forHelsin- ums all over Finland butthis isupthere 3.30pm. You’ll findsimilar sortsof muse- guided tours in English at11.30amand embroidery and troll-making.There are dancing andcrafts such asspinning, in traditionalcostume demonstrate folk ings fromaround Finland.Guidesdressed manors andoutbuild- traditional houses, May &earlySep) May 11am-5pm Sat&SunlateJun-Aug, 9am-3pmMon-Fri, h Rautatienkatu 1 3 2 CENTRAL HELSINKI HELSINKI••Sights

78 Salomonkatu 11am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-May, 11am-7pm Wed11am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-May, Eerikinkatu 75 museum

77 Simonkatu Annankatu 69 53

5 ὈὈ Fredrikinkatu ὈὈ

15 AC Yrjönkatu 67 Rautatientori

with18th-and 19th-century 32

( Kalevankatu 28 %

Postikatu 33 100

9 Lönnrotinkatu 4050 9660;adult/child€5/free; 55 65 56 54 36 18 34 105 Uudenmaankatu 41 40 27 14 83 50 Rautatientori 66 Bulevardi 99 6 76 47 Station ὈὈ ὈὈ Train 82 84 90

98

19

M annerheimintie 96 Central Helsinki 7

Iso-Roobertinkatu 88 44 103

(Railway Square)

86 70 Keskuskatu Rautatientori Vilhonkatu B

Kaivokatu 104 3 89 71 1 Erottajankatu 29

Ludviginkatu 79 Yliopistonkatu Yrjönkatu 81 58 11 43

Kaisaniemi 20

92 Aleksanterinkatu

62 24 Mikonkatu ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 91

52 60 63 Korkeavuorenkatu 95 16 Kaisaniemi 21

Pohjoisesplanadi 93 45 23 68 87 42 townhouse incentral Helsinki. Jun-Aug &Dec)Built in1818, thisistheoldest wooden % per museumadult/child €3/free, free Thu) 7pm Wed,11am-5pmMon&Tue mid-May–mid-Aug) iemi; adult/child€4/free; Burgher’s House Burgher’s ing frequency: change out,asthese setting withbewilder- or present. Checkopening hours before ings focusonan aspectof thecity’s past punginmuseo around thecity centre constitute the A groupof scattered smallmuseums KAUPUNGINMUSEO large this Worth visitingonatriptoSeurasaari, MUSEUM KEKKONEN URHO walk. central Helsinki, take bus24,ortram4and the Tamminiementien café (see p77 ). From by abeautifulpark.Whilehere, don’tmiss issurrounded a guidedtourandthehouse Avisitincludes was turnedintoamuseum. up untilUrho Kekkonen’s death,whenit a presidential residence for30years, right

94

48

85 Kluuvikatu Kaisaniemenkatu 73 Vuorikatu 25 49

135 1065; Kristianinkatu 12; 135 1065;Kristianinkatu

Esplanad Kasarmikatu 0.3miles 500m 0 0 64 Kaisaniemi

Eteläesplanadi 46 Park 72 house

61

8 2 Fabianinkatu 74

( 26 80 Pohjoinen Makasiinikatu

%

39 10 (www.helsinkicitymuseum.fi; admission (www.helsinkicitymuseum.fi; Unioninkatu 4 (Ruiskumestarintalo; Map Map (Ruiskumestarintalo; pp60-1 ; 4050 9650; Seurasaarentie 15,Tammin-4050 9650;Seurasaarentie 13 (Senate Square) Senaatintori 31 59 38 57 30

h Sofiankatu

51 Eteläranta 12

11am-5pm Thu-Sun,11am- (Fish Market) Snellmaninkatu www.lonelyplanet.com Kauppahalli Kauppatori h

Vironkatu Rauhankatu 37

22 Kirkkokatu

Yliopistonkatu 11am-4pm Sun-Thu 17 97 102 D Eteläsatama . Allbuild-

101 35 Mariankatu was Kau- suit awealthy 18th-centurymerchant. buildingdatesfrom 1757andisfurnished to oldest brick films aboutHelsinki. exhibitionand Square, hasahistorical Just southofSenate 4; ankatu Aug-May) This delightful museum, inan oldtram depot, Aug-May) % 18; inkatu pp60-1; Map www.lonelyplanet.com Tram Museum House Sederholm Housing ofWorker Museum CityMuseum Helsinki temporary displays. Thu mid-Jul–mid-Jun) andthematic ExhibitiononHelsinki % the early20thcentury. Sun-Thu livedin workers Jun-Aug)Showshowindustrial SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Amos AndersonArtMuseum.... Rikhardinkadun Library...... Embassy...... Netcup...... mbar...... (see 15) Main telephoneoffice...... (see 18) Main postoffice...... Lithuanian Embassy...... Library 10...... (see18) Level 7...... Lasipalatsi Centre...... Kilroy Travels...... Karttakeskus Aleksi...... Japanese Embassy...... Irish Embassy...... Expert...... Helsinki CityTourist Office &Helsinki Hagelstams Bokhandel...... Forex...... Forex...... Forex...... (SRM)...... Finnish Youth HostelAssociation Finnish Tourist Board...... Danish Embassy...... Canadian Embassy...... Ateneum Internet...... (see29) Akateeminen Kirjakauppa...... Memorial toEliasLönnrot...... Mannerheim Statue...... Art...... Kiasma MuseumofContemporary Helsinki CityMuseum...... Havis AmandaStatue...... Ateneum (NationalGallery)...... Yliopiston Apteekki...... University ofHelsinkiLibrary..... Traveller...... Service)...... Tikankontti (FinnishForest &Park TeleCenter...... Swedish Embassy...... 169 3576; Töölönkatu 51A; 169 3576; Töölönkatu 169 3444; Mannerheimintie 13; 169 3444;Mannerheimintie h h % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat & Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sun-Thu Aug-Jun) Helsinki’s (Raitioliikennemuseo; Map Map (Raitioliikennemuseo; pp60-1 ; 146 1039; Kirstinkuja 4; 146 1039;Kirstinkuja (Hakasalmenhuvila; Map Map (Hakasalmenhuvila; pp60-1 ; Mp p64 ; (Map Mp p64; (Map h % (Työväenasuntomuseo; (Työväenasuntomuseo; 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 11am-4pm Sun-Thu h 169 3265;Aleksanter- A2 C1 C3 B2 C1 D2 C3 B3 B2 A1 D1 C1 A1 B2 C2 D3 B3 C2 A3 C2 B1 B2 A2 C2 B2 C2 B2 A2 A1 A1 C2 C2 B1 A2 % 11am-4pm Sun- 169 3933;Sofi- h EATING SLEEPING Sokos HotelVaakuna...... Sokos HotelTorni...... Scandic Simonkenttä...... Radisson SASPlaza...... Palace Hotel...... Matkakoti Margarita...... (see 43) Martta Hotelli...... Hotel Rivoli...... Hotel Kämp...... Hotel CumulusSeurahuone...... Hotel Arthur...... Hostel Mekka...... Hostel Erottajanpuisto...... Gasthaus Omapohja...... Apartments RivoliJardin...... Yrjönkadun Uimahalli...... Vanha Kirkko...... University ofHelsinki...... Cathedral)...... Tuomiokirkko (Lutheran Sederholm House...... Sanomatalo...... Presidential Palace...... Postimuseo...... (see 18) Papa Giovanni...... Namaskaar Bulevardi...... Maithai...... Lomarengus...... (see 24) Limón...... Lappi...... Kosmos...... Forum shoppingcentre...... Fazer...... Eatz...... Chez Dominique...... Cantina West...... Café Strindberg...... Café Krypta...... Café Esplanad...... Café Engel...... Café Ekberg...... 11am-4pm h (Lastenmuseo; Map p85 ; 64 toitsterminusandwalk 1km. bus take a modernfamilyandchild. FromcentralHelsinki century manorhouseandshowsthecitythrough thelife of thispairofmuseumsoccupiesan18th- from theairport, to tools. furniturefrom household andappliances domestic andindustrialdesign –everything bitions, mostly focusingon contemporary manent collection andhosts changing exhi- Tuomarinkylä Museum & Children’s Museum &Children’s Museum Tuomarinkylä streets inpastdecades. dailylife in Helsinki’s displays vintagetramsanddepicts This MUSEUM DESIGN also MonJun-Aug, 11am-8pmTue Sep-May) 23;adult/child €7/free; orenkatu 11am-4pm Sun-Thu Notfar &Sep-Dec) mid-Mar–Jul museum 397 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 1D3 B1 B3 C3 B2 C1 B2 C2 A3 A1 A2 A2 B1 D3 B3 C3 C2 B1 C1 C1 B3 B1 C3 A2 A3 C2 C1 D2 A1 D2 B2 B3 A2 C3 A2 B2 A2 C2

Mp pp60-1; (Map ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING Viking Line...... Tallink...... Silja Line...... Makasiini FerryTerminal...... Local Ferries...... Greenbike...... Finnair ...... Finnair Office & Eckerö Line...... Cruise Boats...... ...... Marimekko...... Dis 'n'DatRecords...... Artek...... Teatteri...... On theRocks...... Lost &Found...... Kansallis Teatteri...... Hercules...... Helsinki Club...... Forum Cinema...... (see65) Diana Cinema...... Arctic Icebar&Uniq...... Zetor...... Vltava...... Vanha...... Pub Tram Spårakoff...... Kappeli...... ...... Corona &Ka Con Hombres...... Bar Tapasta...... Bar Loose...... Ateljee Bar...... (see 54) Zucchini...... Volga...... S-Market...... % HELSINKI ••Sights 728 7458;Tuomarinkylä; A % h e Mockba...... 622 0540;Korkeavu- 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, hasaper- 105 104 103 102 101 100 88 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 98 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 99

C3 C3 C3 A2 A2 B3 A3 A2 B3 B2 D3 D2 A1 B1 B2 B2 B1 B2 B1 C2 B3 B2 C2 C1 C2 B2 B1 B3 B1 B2 C2 B3 C1 65 HELSINKI HELSINKI saur skeletonssaur too. species. There’s agoodexhibitionof dino- lion specimensinall,includingallFinnish birds andothercreatures mil- –about seven Helsinki’s extensive collectionof mammals, Cathedral Cathedral the brick-vaulted crypt. tion under thelofty dome. There’s acaféin their ideals, there islittleother ornamenta- Melanchthon andMichael Agricola; true to of Luther, statues theReformation heroes scene of NewYear’s revelry. Theinterior has of stairs, afavourite placeandthe meeting death. Ittowers atthetopof high aflight not completed until1852, 12years after his other hi-tech exhibits. banksandof data computerised stamps, afascinatingcollection dull, butitcontains may soundabit next tothetrainstation, theran Cathedral;M chalk-white neoclassical Presiding proudlyover Square, Senate the Churches The FINLAND OF MUSEUM SPORTS The POSTIMUSEO The NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 66 all runpastit. 3T, 4,7A,7Band10fromthecitycentre defeats of Trams3B, itssportingheroes. hall of fame’andlooksatthetriumphs and Finland’s‘sporting houses ympic Stadium, 11am-4pm Sat&Sun) 13;admission€4.20; tatienkatu admission €2; Map Museo; pp60-1 ; 5pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pmSat&Sun) 5pm Mon-Fri, % brained recently byamisdirected rouble… a LonelyPlanetcorrespondent wasnearly form are great. Don’tlobcoinsfromthetop; plat- Games, theviewsfrom72m-high haven’t touched seemingly upsincethe been theviewingplatformandliftAlthough aukio 5;adult/child€4/free; aukio 4pm Sat&Sun) night Jun-Aug) h The unmistakeable red-brick Also here isthe HELSINKI••Sights 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Sep-May, 9am-mid- 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,noon-6pmSunSep-May, 434 2250;Olympiastadion;admission€3.50; Post Museum Post Museum Natural History Museum Natural History sports museum sports

Mp pp60-1 ; (Map h wasdesignedby CLEngel but , in the main post office building , inthemainpostoffice 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat& Sun) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, ap Mp p64; (Map houses theUniversity houses of p64 ; % Stadium Tower

% (Map pp60-1 ; Urheilumuseo; Urheilumuseo; pp60-1; (Map h 1912 8800;PohjoinenRau- % 709 2455; Unioninkatu 29; 29; 709 2455;Unioninkatu % 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am- 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 634 267; Kanavakatu 1; 634 267; Kanavakatu h , inthe1952Ol- Tuomiokirkko

020-451 4908;Asema- (Luonnontieteellinen 9am-5pm Tue-Fri,

(Stadion Torni; (Stadion Torni; Uspenski Uspenski h 11am-

(Lu- . noon-1.45pm &3.30-6pmSun) wood the northernendof Fredrikinkatu. certs, withgreat acoustics;theentranceisat of copperstripping.There are regular con- ning 24m-diameter roof covered in22km religious architecture andfeatures astun- themoderninnovativenessises of Finnish Hewn intosolid rock,thechurch symbol- one of Helsinki’s foremost attractions. and TuomoSuomalainenin1969,remains Muslim sections aswell astheLutheran. Muslim sections walked in;this hasOrthodox, Jewish and are beautiful anddesigned tobe the west through to get here isto strollfromMechelininkatu terrace and minigolf.a beer Thenicestway are nearby: Finnishsummer stalwarts those in theafternoon sunandthere andevening just westof thecentre. It’sagreat placetobe the bestis Helsinki city hasseveral beaches, of which Beaches &Cemeteries pp60-1 ; StJohn’sPark, offKorkeavuorenkatu) Sun, closedMonOct-Apr) h fabulous chorals andcandlelitatmosphere. worth attending asadiscreet visitorforthe 6pm onSaturdayand10amSunday,well Ascension. There at are Orthodox services Supperandthe panels depictingtheLast withtheEvangelistsish iconostasis flanking squaredescent. Thehigh, interior hasalav- gregation, manyof whomare of Karelian theFinnishOrthodox con- now serves features classiconion-toppeddomesand antine-Slavonic stylein1868,thischurch Built asaRussianOrthodox church inByz- onatheological chessboard.two queens abovedrals faceeach otherhigh thecitylike nearby Katajanokka island.Thetwocathe- Lutherinkatu 3; Lutherinkatu church isa converted intoapublicpark.Opposite the once plaguevictimswere buried,hasbeen signed byCLEngel. Itsgraveyard, where piler of the twin-spired neo-Gothic by EmilWikström. ‘steady oldVäinämöinen’,itwassculpted nrot flanked byhismostfamouscharacter, The oldestchurch inHelsinki isthewhite epeiui Church Temppeliaukio Helsinki’s largest church isthesoaring 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pmSat,noon-3pm9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, Vanha Kirkko Vanha Kirkko Hietaranta memorial h Kalevala 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pmSat, 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, Hietaniemi cemetery Hietaniemi

isequallyimposingon , alikeable stretch of sand Mp p4; Lönnrotinkatu) p64; (Map toEliasLönnrot,com- epic.DepictingLön-

Mp pp60-1; (Map , designedbyTimo www.lonelyplanet.com St John’sChurch . % . Finnish . Finnish 494 698; , de-

(Map (Map 10pm May-early Sep) 10pm May-early €26, childdaypass€14-16,entryonly€3.50; % h seo; Map pp60-1 ; The LINNANMÄKI admission free) The Parks &Gardens www.lonelyplanet.com The spacious Museum Zoo&Maritime Helsinki Finnish ship-building andseafaring. harbour building and hasexhibitions on Life vidual ridetickets (€4.50). Alsohere is can enter free of charge andthenbuyindi- allowunlimited rides,oryou Day passes are donated tochild welfare organizations. rides includingarollercoaster. Itsprofits llio suburb,hasalltheusualkid-pleasing hothouses, acaféandpark. hothouses, collection,withclassic19th-century tanical 8pm May-Sep, 10am-4pmOct-Feb, 10am-6pmMar-Apr) 8pm May-Sep, €8/4.50; 5969; adult/child€5/3,withferry ride May) 10am-5pmOct- 10am-8pm Wed,10am-5pmSunJun-Sep, the accessible bybridge fromKorkeasaari, is the islandofthrough . andwalk1.5km or themetrotoKulosaari at weekends it’sbus 16 inwinter, otherwise Thisbusalsoruns toniemi metrostation. fromHert-summer andZoo bus11goes from Hakaniemi 30 minutes every orsoin small farmandagoodcaféterrace. ral enclosures, aswellatropicalhouse, inlargeand aroundtheworldhoused natu- 1889, ithasanimalsandbirdsfrom Finland ferry in fromthekauppatori.Established located onKorkeasaari –bestreached by the tothe centre,ahti metroorTöölö.Closer display of Take roses. tram8fromRuohol- garden,includingaspectacular botanical to Finnishsoil.Theyare surroundedby a palms, andothersun-loving plants foreign are cacti, elaborate containing greenhouses 3B,3Tor8take youtoLinnanmäki. noon-4pm Sat&Sun) Hammarskjöldintie 1;admissionfree; On the adjoining Hylkysaari, andonly On theadjoining Hylkysaari, Ferries leave fromthekauppatoriand 11am-5pm May-Sep) 020-385 677; www.linnanmaki.fi; Tivolikuja 1;adult020-385 677;www.linnanmaki.fi;

, a state-of-the-art aquarium.Bus23or , astate-of-the-art Maritime Museum ofFinland Museum Maritime University botanicalgardens University City Winter Gardens City Winter (adult/child €12.50/9.50; Linnanmäki amusementpark Linnanmäki comprises Finland’slargest comprises bo- % Helsinki Zoo Helsinki , onahilljustnorthof Ka- were foundedin1893and 4050 9051; adult/child€2.50/free; . It’s housed inahistoric . It’shoused

(Talvipuutarha; Map Map (Talvipuutarha; pp60-1 ; h

Mp pp60-1; (Map h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat,

noon-3pm Tue-Fri, noon-3pm Tue-Fri, (Suomen Merimu- (Unioninkatu 44; (Unioninkatu

Mp pp60-1; (Map h h % 11am- 10am- Sea 169 is pp60-1; admission €3; be hired at pretty baynorthof Skates can thestation. vopuisto parkand aroundTöölönlahti,the was designedtodouble asabombshelter. fromrockand derground complex iscarved turn leftatOlavinlinnantie. Theentirely un- Itäkeskus walkeastforablockand station, Sun &Mon,6.30am-9pmWedFri) h p64; (Map andswimatthe sauna No visitto Helsinki iscomplete withouta ACTIVITIES rants andbars. attractively converted intoenticingrestau- leisure of harbourandaseries warehouses island, theUspenski looksover Cathedral a of icebreakers. Atthewestern endof the out over theimpressively functionalfleet Engel-designed Foreign Ministrylooking the othersideismore peaceful,withthe land hastwoof the major ferry terminals, ings galore. Whilethesouthsideof theis- with extravagant turrets andcuriouscarv- upmarket Jugendstil residential buildings ofenjoyable placestostroll.It’saparadise narrow canalandisoneof thecity’smost pp60–1 ) isdividedfromthemainlandbya Just eastof thekauppatori,thisisland(Map Island Katajanokka walk aroundKatajanokka island. See Helsinki onFoot office. Pyöräilykartta, The bike and skate route map, Itäkeskus swimming hall Itäkeskus themostimpressiveHowever, poolisthe here andyoucanrent towelsandswimwear. lowed inthesaunas. suits are optionalinthepoolandnot al- hours formenandwomen bathing beautifully restored. There are separate and itspowerfulNordicelegance hasbeen Deco complexwasfirst opened in 1928 Stadium convenient istheoutdoor pools withinexpensive admission. Most nantie 6;admission€4.50; Rollerblading The tourist office’s excellentbrochureThe touristoffice’s For information onbike rental see p83 . Helsinki public hasseveral swimming men 6.30am-9pmTue, Thu,Sat,womennoon-9pm %

Mp pp60-1; (Map % 4776 9760; Mäntymäentie 1) h Töölönlahti Recreational Centre Recreational Töölönlahti 3108 7401; Yrjönkatu 21; admission€4-11; 3108 7401;Yrjönkatu May-Sep) ispopular,especially inKai- isfree at the city tourist HELSINKI •• Activities HELSINKI ••Activities % w (free) has a self-guided (free) has aself-guided . There are also saunas 3108 7854; Hammarskjöldintie; 3108 7854;Hammarskjöldintie;

) – take the to –take themetro to ( Yrjönkadun Uimahalli Yrjönkadun % Olympic Swimming Olympic Swimming 3108 7202;Olavinlin- . This sleek Art. Thissleek . Helsingin

(Map (Map 67

HELSINKI HELSINKI Stone elisk toppedbyagoldeneagleisthe of WWII.Thestoneob- the devastation of onlyafew remaining inthecityafter by graceful19th-centurybuildings –some known asthefishmarket. Itissurrounded sinki isthebustling westof thecity. get outtoSeurasaari, Helsinki area, but withabike it’sa breeze to you’ll probablywanttostickthecentral walking andcycling–ifyou’re onfoot The following tour isacombinationof HELSINKI WALKING&CYCLINGTOUR 68 h rental €4; 23;admission €2, skate 2932; Helsinginkatu a nostalgic NorthernEuropeanfilm! a nostalgic where publicskatingisarranged; itfeels like Nicholas IandTsarina Alexandra. veiled in1835honourof avisitbyTsar here tocelebrate thecomingof spring. During monly regarded asthesymbolof Helsinki. alsoknownas‘Manta’,The statue, iscom- land’s mostbeloved artists,VilleVallgren. market, wasdesigned in1908byoneof Fin- justwestof andfountain thefishstatue tial Palace Uspenski Cathedral Uspenski Katajanokka Islandtovisitthe Orthodox Halonen, Finland’sfirst womanpresident. dence –atthetime of writinghome toTarja This isthepresident’s Helsinki official resi- worth astroll ifyouhave the time– many marks inHelsinki. church isoneof the mostrecognisable land- the harbour. Thisvery photogenic red brick In winter, The starting pointforanytourofThe starting Hel- Havis Amanda Across fromthekauppatori isthe Heading east,crossthe footbridge onto HELSINKI •• Helsinki Walking &CyclingTour Walking HELSINKI••Helsinki a beeroutonthestreet terrace –cladonlyinatowelofcourse! vihta has acompletely different feel ones;spankyourselfwithabirch andaromatotheusualelectric sections. Youcaneven opttobecleanedoffbyasturdyoldscrubbing-woman.The woodsauna décorunchangedsinceitopenedin1928andseparatewith antiquelockers, men’sand women’s theheatup allday.It’sagloriouslytraditionalplace, fourhourstowarmupandthenkeep take thisisahistoricpublicsaunafired district, street byenormouswoodfurnacesthat intheKallio One of Helsinki’s mostmemorableexperiencesisthevenerable One ofHelsinki’s SPECIAL SOMETHING % Nov-Mar)

(2) 753 1535; Harjutorinkatu 1;admission€7; 753 1535;Harjutorinkatu to massage the skin andhelpthecleaningprocess,afterwards it’sthecustomtohave tomassagetheskin , Helsinki’s oldest monument,un- Vappu

(4) isagreat naturaloutdoorarea , guarded by colourful sentries. , guardedbycolourful sentries. Brahen kenttä Brahen (May Day)studentsgather

( (3) 5 Katajanokka , thelovely mermaid ; p66 ) onahillabove kauppatori kauppatori

Mp pp60-1; (Map ( itself is well itself 1 ; p82 ), also Presiden- Tsarina’s Tsarina’s % h 753 2-8pm Tue-Fri, 1-7pmSat,saunatimeuntil10pm) 2-8pm Tue-Fri, intori andtheuniversity’s magnificent Helsinki building.Themain ognisable prominent feature andHelsinki’s mostrec- completed in1852,isthesquare’s most Tuomiokirkko ence in19th-centuryHelsinki. thestrongRussian influ- and symbolises Alexander II Helsinki’s centre. ‘official’ The Helsinki history.Itleadsto interpretive boardsexplainingsomeearly Sofiankatu, anarrowcobbled street with residential buildings. of itsnarrowstreets have fineArtNouveau Museum Two of Helsinki’s the museums, is alittlefarthernorthalongUnioninkatu. heimintie to Helsinkianingly every buyseverything. store mann department the northeastcornerisfamous main thoroughfare, Mannerheimintie. On here. The Esplanadleadstothecity’sbroad ite summerspotandthere’s often live music bled avenue andgrassyverges. It’safavour- in the pleasant in thepleasant along thesouthsideof thesquare. collector of avant-garde art in hisday. the site –ironically, theMarshal was an avid memory tobuildamodern artgalleryon felt that itwoulddegrade Mannerheim’s many Kiasma by almostadecade because by warveterans delayedthebuildingof the square Protests nexttothe museum. most revered of Finnish leaders, dominates statue ofseum Contemporary Art.An Engel’s stately chalk-white, blue-domed along onthemainland,turnright Back Continue twoblocks northonManner- Walking backtoPohjoisesplanadi, you’re of Marshal CGE Mannerheim, the buildingisonthewestsideof Senaat- ( p65 ) and in Senaatintori wascastin1894 inSenaatintori (Lutheran Cathedral; (LutheranCathedral; p66 ), Kiasma Kotiharjun Sauna Esplanad Park Sederholm House Sederholm ( 9 ( ; p62 ), thedaringMu- 8 www.lonelyplanet.com ; p82 ), where seem-

(7) Senaatintori Mp pp60-1 ; (Map , withacob- . Inaquiet statue ofTsar University of University Helsinki City City Helsinki 6 are (p65) equestrian equestrian library Stock-

(6) ,

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὄὄὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ well astheNationalGallery, naturally,as you’ll findthetrainstation, Square), where (Railway sized Rautatientori walking northwest.Themonolithic1931 Finnish NationalRomanticstyle. isamasterpiece of itself train station the in-progress, wascompleted in1991.The p63 building,longawork- ). Themuseum www.lonelyplanet.com 17

Ὀ Ὀ Detour twoblockseasttotheSoviet- Return toMannerheimintie andcontinue Duration Distance &end Start TOUR FACTS Merikannontie

Porkkalankatu Hietaniemenkatu 8km

18

3hr 16 Mechelininkatu kauppatori

Eino Leinonkatu

Mannerheimintie Topeliuksenkatu ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Leppäsu

Helsinki Walking &Cycling Tour Walking Helsinki

Museokatu Temppelikatu onkatu 13

15 Mannerheimintie Ateneum 14 19

Lönnrotinkatu

Salomonkatu Töölönlahti ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ 11 12

Bulevardi Simonkatu ( Uudenmaankatu

10 Meri 9 ;

HELSINKI •• Helsinki Walking &CyclingTour Walking HELSINKI ••Helsinki katu Station 20 Train

Kaivokatu Church pelikatu where you’llfind andAurorankatuto Temp-Museokatu ringforinformation. events, built in1971.Openinghours depends on Talo most famousworks,theangular isoneofimintie, ontheright, AlvarAalto’s this stretch. AlittlefurtherupMannerhe- Parliament House and 1pm Sun, also 1pm Mon-Fri Jul-Aug and 1pmSun,alsoMon-Fri admission free; heimintie isthe1993 from solidrock. Mannerheimintie 13;guidedtours€6) Mannerheimintie 8

Tehtaankatu ientori Rautat- At thispointyoucandetourwestalong A few blocksfurthernorthon Manner- 10

Merisatamanranta Pohjoisesplanadi

( Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ 12

Eteläesplanadi ; visitinginfo (

13

7 Kasarmikatu ; p66 ), amodernchurch hewn

h 0 0 Unioninkatu 3 6 guided tours11amandnoonSat, ( % 11 1

4

; 21 Mariankatu 40241, boxoffice 2 % Opera House 4321; Mannerheimintie 30; 4321; Mannerheimintie 5

Pohjoisranta Kanavakatu , aconcerthall K atjnok Temppeliaukio ) dominates Finland Gulf of %

0.5 miles ( 14 Finlandia 402 4400; p81), ; 1 km

69 HELSINKI HELSINKI West Harbour tothesouthof the penin- heimintie tothe1952 northonManner-tinue ashortdistance home of theFinnish NationalOpera. Con- 70 around thecoastroadto Pohjoisesplanadi, itsterminus. to theintersection of Mannerheimintie and peaceful ing backtowardsthecitycentre the through p66 ), Helsinki’s mostpopularbeach. Head- the 24 fromtheparkcantake younorthwestto Jeanmost famouscomposer, Sibelius.Bus Eila Hiltunenin1967tohonourFinland’s This kineticsculpture wascreated byartist lovely church, pausing inthesummerparkwhere there’s a return tothecitycentre alongBulevardi, lar fleamarket ( p82 ). Fromhere youcan kauppahalli (covered markets) andapopu- reach Sibelius parkandthe Tower. take alifttothetopof the72mStadium p66 ). Forsomeof thebestviewsof Helsinki, Alternatively, continuearoundpastthe Alternatively, continuewalkingorriding From the stadium, walkorcycle westto From thestadium, HELSINKI •• Helsinki forChildren HELSINKI••Helsinki drag showsorwomen-only sessions. a minimumageof 22 andaSaturdaycover charge) and there are regular clubnightsas well as popular spotsonthis busybarstreet. There are acoupleof clubareas openingat9pm(there’s biggest gayclubis amultilevel complexandhasanearly-opening café/bar,oneofthemost mainly men butwithsomewomen too. Classic dancefloorhits. DTM Clubs & Bars relaxed. Mostare inthe coolPunavuori oftown,aroundIso-Roobertinkatu. section hasanumberofgoodvenues tothe rangingas CopenhagenorStockholm, fromthescene-y hasanactive andpermissiveHelsinki andlesbianscene,which,whilenotquite aslively GAY &LESBIANHELSINKI bar forgay menwithplenty ofEurochic styleandsavvy sounds. night wearson. terrace. It’sagoodspottochatpeople earlieron;theEurovision music gets louderasthe heimintie 170) .fi/queerguide.htm. yearly andhaslistingsofbars,clubs, events, saunas andshops. It’salsoonlineatwww.z-lehti Seurasaari Open-AirMuseum Seurasaari Con Hombres Room Albert The best place to start isto pick upthe The bestplacetostart Hercules For more information, contact the Helsinki branchof For more theHelsinki information,contact Hietalahti square (19) square Hietalahti

Mp pp60-1; (Map Hietaniemi

, thenationalGLB&Torganization ofthecentre. located about4kmnorth Mp p64; (Map Vanha Kirkko

%

Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp p64; (Map 676 315; Iso Roobertinkatu 28; 676 315;IsoRoobertinkatu % Sibelius monument Olympic Stadium Hietaranta Beach Hietaranta 612 1776; www.herculesgayclub.com; Lönnrotinkatu 4; 612 1776;www.herculesgayclub.com; Lönnrotinkatu which hasitsown

% (

20 ( ( p64 ), orsouth 18 % ; p66 ). 608 826; Eerinkinkatu 14; 608 826;Eerinkinkatu 6 , you’ll p66), ; 643 626; Kalevankatu 36;www.roombar.fi; 643 626;Kalevankatu (

(16)

( 15 17 ; . ; Gay Guide h 9am-4am Mon-Sat,noon-4amSun; Linnanmäki amusement park( Linnanmäki amusement p67 ) isa and Suomenlinnaislandreached thisway. are anobviousattraction,withboththe zoo interest mostchildren. The harbour ferries rooms foldsoutintoachild-size bed. plain howthesofa intheirexecutive-class the business-typehotels willcheerfully ex- extra bedsatminimaladditionalcost.Even have eitherfamilyroomsorthe optionof and restaurant willbekeen tohelpout. friendly societyandjustabout hotel every areevents allinoperation.Finlandisachild- parksand outdoor boat trips,amusement young ones,particularlyinsummerwhen HELSINKI FORCHILDREN Helsinki isanexcellentplacetovisitwith arrive backatthekauppatori. the Olympiaferry terminal andeventually Continuing alongthewaterfront youpass traditional ritualof theFinnishsummer. holds towashtheirrugs,avery typicaland the smallwoodenjetties,erected forhouse- picnic andlazearoundinsummer. Note isto park sula, followingthewaterfront to h There are plentyof activitiesthatwill accommodationchoiceNearly every will fromthetouristoffice. This isupdated 2pm-2am) Seta

(21)

, afavourite placeforFinnsto ( % Arelaxed ofplacewitha sort 681 2580;www.seta.fi; Manner- h h 2pm-2am) 9pm-4am) www.lonelyplanet.com i ) Anew,cool, Abusydisco, Scandinavia’s Kaivopu- walking tours andtailored grouptours. companyoffersnal (10.45am).Thesame daily at10.30amviatheKatajanokka termi- route runsfromtheOlympicferry terminal (in 11languages) Asimilar isviaaheadset. commentary near thetouristoffice, andtaped bus tours. They departfromtheEsplanad, a week. Inquirea week. atthecitytouristoffice. walking tours insummer,usuallygiven once costs €22or€10withtheHelsinki Card. and alsohave It headphonecommentary. low asimilarroute totheHelsinki Expert bus. Tours leave from thekauppatori,fol- tours aboardanopen-topdoubledecker in winter) Card€8; Helsinki Expert Helsinki TOURS and Töölönlahtibay. are playgroundsinbothKaivopuisto park areetaniemi particularlysafe, whilethere ( p87 ) inVantaa isalsoawinner. to variousages. TheHeureka ScienceCentre willalsoappeal and NaturalHistoryMuseum Children’s SportsMuseum seum, Museum, as wellasubmarinetovisit;theTramMu- sion. OnSuomenlinna,there isatoymuseum act withchildren andoften offer free admis- (see p87 ) isalsoguaranteed toplease. Waterthe appeal.TheSerena Park inEspoo it nowhasanon-site aquariumtoadd Finnish familyfavouritelong-standing and www.lonelyplanet.com companies willfindyou. you won’thave –theboat tolookforcruises thekauppatoriinsummer, Strolling through Cruises Helsinki There Card). are also longer day- (and they’re both freesightseeing with the way tocombine ascenicboat ridewithother fortressSuomenlinna sea ( p84 ) isagood There are alsolunch anddinnercruises. Sun Lines,isprobably themost interesting. run by trip aroundtheisland of , with regular dailydepartures insummer. The minute sea andcanal minute sea a numberof smallercompanies offer 90- 488) with Helsinki Card€10) with Helsinki Open TopTours There are typesof alsoseveral guided The beaches onSuomenlinnaand atHi- Many tointer- make museums abigeffort A visit to theHelsinki Zoo( p67 ) or , Sun Lines runs excellent 90-minute sightseeing runsexcellent90-minute sightseeing h

( % ( on the hour 10am-2pm in summer, 11am on thehour10am-2pminsummer,11am %

alsohashop-onhop-off 2288 1600; adult/child €20/10, with 2288 1600;adult/child€20/10,with ( 727 7010;www.sunlines.fi) % 050-430 2050; per trip €22, 050-430 2050;pertrip cruises Royal Line

(adult/child €16/8)

( % and 170

6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSatSep-May) 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat,10am-6pmSunJun-Aug,9am- 7pm Mon-Fri, tions aroundthecity. (www.koneisto.com) loca- Heldinmid-August atvarious Esplanad Park onJune12. to manyfree andcheapactivities city’s anniversarybrings HI discount; €18, standard s/d upto€40/60, modern s/dupto€55/75, 14; dm 4334; www.hostelacademica.fi; Hietaniemenkatu 200-year-old tradition takes placeatthekauppatori. 200-year-old traditiontakes Centre range andtop-endhotels. The Julyisusuallyaquiet timeformid- although and hotels frommid-May tomid-August, Bookings are for advisable Helsinki hostels SLEEPING Lucia Parade Etnosoi Market Baltic Herring Festival Helsinki andArts Music Koneisto Festival ofElectronic Ankkarock Carnival Latin American Day Helsinki Fair Regional Championships World Hockey Ice Vappu EVENTS & FESTIVALS see to theFinnishtownPorvoo; p91 . byferrycruises andsteamer fromHelsinki Academica SummerHostel Budget cheaper thanyouwouldget onyour own. small bookingfee, butroomrates are often a branch atthecitytourist office. There’s a hall of canhelp. There’s thetrainstation also December 13. Square on at6pminSenate with thebigparadestarting Finland thefinals. makes –there’s agreat atmospherein May here, especiallyif onabigscreen underatentonRautatientori televised Often statue, whichreceives awhite‘studentcap’. people gatherinthecentre aroundtheHavisAmanda at6pm –on30April inHelsinki veryseriously is taken Tickets rangefrom €10to€45. features chambermusic,jazz,theatre, operaandmore. festival thiselaboratearts late AugusttoearlySeptember, 22-24)From www.helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi; Mannerheimintie music festival heldinmid-June. festival spotlightsadifferent region ofFinland eachyear. inearlyAugust. music festival inearlyNovember. (May Day) The festival of students and workers Day)Thefestival ofstudentsandworkers (May

(www.globalmusic.fi) Helsinki hostsanethnic (www.globalmusic.fi) Helsinki ( % (www.ankkarock.fi) Rockfestival heldin (www.ankkarock.fi) h 2288 1400; [email protected]; 2288 1400;[email protected]; (www.hel.fi/helsinkipaiva) Celebratingthe (www.hel.fi/helsinkipaiva) (www.hel.fi)HeldinearlyJune,this Christmas is a special time in Helsinki isaspecialtimeinHelsinki Christmas Jun-Aug; (HelsinginJuhlaviikot; (www.hel.fi) In early October a (www.hel.fi)InearlyOctober pnis (www.hel.fi) An important (www.hel.fi)Animportant HELSINKI ••Tours

Mp pp60-1; (Map (www.ihwc.net) (www.ihwc.net) inthecentral Hotel Booking Booking Hotel % ) Finnish 6126 5100; h %

9am- 1311

71 HELSINKI HELSINKI fistful of facilities. ciate agregarious atmosphere more thana overpriced, it’sworthpayingifyouappre- feel, andwhilethebunk dorms feel alittle social sortof place withalikeably chaotic totheheartofstreet close thecity.It’sa sinki andhasagoodlocationon alively laid-back budget accommodationinHel- zas andcheap lunches (€7.90). stairs, doingabreakfast (€6.30),piz- buffet There’s alsoasurprisinglysmartcafédown- the extracoupleof coinsitcoststoupgrade. ries; theEurohostel roomsare wellworth with cheery roomsthatcomeintwocatego- institutional, itmore thanmakes upforit veniences. Whilethebuildingissomewhat ing guestswellandproviding goodcon- of hostels thatplacesapremium ontreat- isoneofthis HI-affiliate thenew brand with crisp white sheets. with crispwhite sheets. own bathroom,simplekitchen, andbeds rooms are andspacioushave light their of thefive-star hotels aroundtheplace. All and aswimmingpool,notonoffer atmost great facilities, freefriendly staff, parking tive budget choice duringsummer. It’sgot the world,which makes thisavery attrac- ridden hovels thatpassmuster elsewhere in students live inluxurygiven themould- 72 pni cabins €52-62,cottagewith/withoutsauna €165/100; 4; tentsites€11-17,2-personcabins€37-43, 4-person canoes totake outonthewater.canoes July): youcanhire bikes orrowboats or in thecomplex(which gets pretty busyin log cottages. There are allsorts of facilities crowave and a fridge, andmore upmarket are green woodencabinswithbunks,ami- choice. As wellastent andvansites, there side location,thiscampsite isanexcellent from theheartof town,inapretty water- s/d €46/60,HIdiscount; 9;dm€25, www.erottajanpuisto.com; Uudenmaankatu €69-76; 9;dm€23-26,s €38-40,d€46-51,tr hostel.fi; Linnankatu mekka.com; Vuorikatu 8B;dm/s/d€25/47/57; Vuorikatu mekka.com; rooms sleeping upto four in beds. It’srooms sleeping more like with homely, retro a guesthouse, back from thestreet inacourtyard. Itfeels ina stately oldHelsinkiset building set central, this low-keyUnbeatably hostel is Rastila Hostel Erottajanpuisto Hostel Eurohostel Hostel Mekka Hostel HELSINKI••Sleeping ni

( ) % Only20minutes ontheMetro

) Mp pp60-1; (Map Right bytheferry Right terminals, 321 6551; www.hel.fi/liv; Karavaanikatu 321 6551;www.hel.fi/liv;Karavaanikatu

Mp p64; (Map ni

% % Mp p64; (Map ) Thisisthemost 630 265;www.hostel 622 0470;www.euro % 642 169; p )

domestic floral. owner andabigrangeofroomsdecoratedinwell-worn €55/70) Very closetothestation, withawelcoming with shared bathroom€40/54/69,s/dwith ItäinenTeatterikuja 3;s/d/tr.matkakoti-margarita.com; showers. though anditfeels old-stylewithbigdormsandshared oftheOlympicStadium.There are noviews part is actually pni €15/28/41; .stadionhostel.com; PohjoinenStadiontie3;dm/s/d a key ifyouwillbearrivingatothertimes. but theywillarrange aspotforyoutocollect mat! Receptionisonlyopenonweekdays, getFinnish home;youeven yourowndoor- furniture, itfeels like beinginanupscale value. Withbrand-newandtypicalNordic furnishedapartmentsoffer excellent these mian, anddeceptively tothecentre, close quiet districtof Töölö,upmarket yet bohe- €101-169; 18;studioapts€62-104,2-bedroom .com; Museokatu smells fromtheNepaleserestaurant below. curry buffet are breakfast.filledwith wafting Thecorridors bus station,thisisfarfromflashbuttherateincludesa h 1A;dm€19,s€36-39,d€54-58; fax 6854245;Lapinrinne Accome Tölö Midrange Stadion Hostel Satakuntatalo Hostel Margarita Matkakoti Helsinki winter. tocopeinthe depthsing struggles of the coolinsummer,buttheheat- pleasantly army-brass spotlessness. andscrubbed toan price, albeit comfortable the olderroomsare a littlecareworn forthe and boastshinyfloors andfurniture, while in thenewerwing are much more spacious parking. There are twogrades of rooms:those real Finnishhomestyle treat –andforitsfree guests over withitslavish breakfast buffet –a here Italsowins isadelight. sonable service down inthisultra-welcominghotel; the per- by namebefore you’ve putyourbags even ifyouarebe surprised greeted effusively weekends &Juls€75,d€85-95; weekends 24;s€103,d€130-155, Uudenmaankatu .marttahotelli.fi; ends €76/98, reconomy/summer €68/71; 50;s/d €114/138, week- Helsinginkatu aurorahelsinki.com; Martta Hotelli Martta Other recommendations: Hotel Aurora Hotel Jun-Aug; h h ) An easy tram ride fromtown,thisHIhostel ) Aneasytramride pni

reception 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; reception 8am-8pmMon-Fri; reception 7am-2am, 7am-3aminsummer; Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map (Map pp60-1 ;

(Map p64 ; p64 (Map

Mp p64; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map p64 ; p64; (Map ) Handily located right bythe ) Handilylocatedright % www.lonelyplanet.com % % 251 1050;www.accome pnw 477 8480;www % % 770 100;www.hotel % pnis 618 7400;www 622 4261;www n 6958 5233; ) ) In the Inthe Don’t )

handy forboth busandtrainstations. andverycentralhotel this isasmart shabby exterior, & summer€79/99; 23A;s/d€117/184,weekends .fi; PohjoinenRautatiekatu .fi; Annankatu 1;s€110-125, d€150-165, junior ste€195; .fi; Annankatu gym straight outofgym straight a1980sboxing movie! are bookablesquashcourts,free anda sauna is inoperationtoo. As wellasapool,there parkacrosstheroad when theamusement attractively pricedinthesummermonths, are goodfamilysuites, which several are very decent, somewithviewsover thebay.There fully spaciousandstylish andtheroomsare The modernizedcommonareas are beauti- cantly better thanitsbrickexterior suggests. This friendlycharity-run hotel issignifi- www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel Anna Hotel pnw €73/92; 19;s/d€94/114,weekends arthur.fi; Vuorikatu damsels whimsyofdamsels thefaçade. a significantcontrasttothedragons-and- vaguelyJapaneseminimalist, even feel, all look very coolandhandsome. There’s a rooms have recently been refurbished and ern annexe behindthefrontbuilding.The of thehotel, isinaquietmod- however, Themainpart fantasy. Jugendstil medieval cal university opposite, it’safull-blooded forthe techni-as thestudentclubhouse turreted façadebacksitup.Builtin1903 name means‘castle’,andtheflamboyant with plenty more verve and thought. with plentymore andthought. verve andhavethan thestandards designed been aretake asuperiorroom;these much larger choices are full. Spendtheextra€15and the-road optiontorely onifyourpreferred ,thisisadecentmiddle-of- cated onaquietsidestreet bythe right combination of beingvery centralyetlo- Hotelli Helka Hotelli ask foraroomin amore subduedtone! If theyellowwingisalittlemuch, but bright. this inmind;the roomsare much simpler, to atheatre andthelobby isdecorated with without anyrailwaysleaze. It’slocated next but tothetrainstation close old guesthouse €99/116; to 29;s/dto€162/189, weekends .palace.fi; Lönnrotinkatu toilet/bathroom €65/75/85; washbasin/toilet/bathroom €44/54/64,dwith washbasin/ [email protected]; ItäinenTeatterikuja 3;swith Hotel Linna Hotel Hotel Arthur Hotel Gasthaus Omapohja Gasthaus Other recommendations: pniw ) Mp pp60-1; (Map Alwaysapopularchoice forits Mp pp60-1 ; (Map

pniw

Mp p64; (Map Mp p64; (Map

Mp p64; (Map ) n % Thissmallish hotel’s % ) 616 621; www.hotelanna Omapohja isafine % % 613 580;www.helka ) Despiteasomewhat 010-344 4100;www 173 441;www.hotel % 666 211;gasthaus ends €94/115, summerr€98; 26;s/d€189/218, week- www.sokoshotels.fi; Yrjönkatu 91; €95/105,summerr for2+nights€81- €142/181, weekends 7;s/dfrom www.scandic-hotels.com; Katajanokanlaituri suite isfabulous– ing anythingonthecomfortfront. The city’s hotels andvery chic withoutconced- It’s much more romanticthanmostof the all inaclassicFrench-influenced style. design andcolourscheme oneach floor, rooms are luxurious;there’s adistinct Thecharming plant-filled conservatory. fabulous lounge-and-breakfast area with exudes aquietcharm that beginsinits lodgings andoffers astylish welcome. It boutique hotel isoneof Helsinki’s best weekend d€99-169; weekend 40;s€173-205, d€194-235,ste€335, .fi; Kasarmikatu this is a functional sort ofplace. sort this isafunctional facilities, roomswithself-catering simple, reasonably priced €50/65/77; €56/72/88, weekends 7;economys/s/d 980; www.hotelfenno.fi; Kaarlenkatu famed asbeing Helsinki’s ‘skyscraper’. some of itsprewar ambience, whenit was careful friendly place hasbeen topreserve very centraldog-legged street, this iconic, are particularly good. andfacilities by theferry terminals. Service gendstil islandof Katajanokka andisright boasts agreat locationonthelovable Ju- ourful andrecently refurbished rooms.It than mostbusinesshotels, withcool,col- warehouse, this hasbagsmore character an early-20th-centurygiantbrickharbour addition toHelsinki’s hotel scene. isdestinedtobeastylish .klauskhotel.com) at timeof research, theKlausKhotel (www full rackrate. ithadn’tyetopened Although via theirwebsites; yourarely have topaythe special rates bookablewithtravel agents or Most of hotels have these variousoffers and Top End Fenno Finnapartments Hotel and quiet. Church andwillappealtothosewhoappreciate peace ni stays ofstays five ormore. nights fabulous apartments roundthecorner,for sumptuous short break. Thehotel also has a memorable Helsinki honeymoon, or Hotel Rivoli Hotel Scandic GrandMarina Sokos Sokos Hotel pniw ) ThisstatelyhotelisrunbythesmallFinnish Free

(Map p64 ; p64; (Map ) Asuperbconversion from pni HELSINKI ••Sleeping

the Mp p64; (Map

place to reserve for placetoreserve ni Mp pp60-1; (Map % pni Mp pp60-1; (Map ) 681 500;www.rivoli Thisbeautiful % ) Onaquiet, 020-1234 604; ) With ) With % % 16661; 774 774

73 HELSINKI HELSINKI & Jul€130/165, .fi; Eteläranta10;rwith/withoutview€280/235,weekends very attractively furnished andcomfortable. comparison and all face inwards, but are equipped tofive-star lackalittle by levels, beautiful dark-woodbar. Therooms, while in itsgorgeous public areas, particularlyits features. Its charm nowadaysliesespecially trades andpilasters – andsomeinterior the originalopulent façade–allbalus- recently re-converted toahotel, itretains out theirideas.Eventually gutted andonly SibeliusandGallen-Kallelaposers thrashed long, animated piss-ups asthelikes of com- historyincludesplentyofemblem, whose is oneof thecity’sfinestandaHelsinki summer & weekend s/dfrom€78/115; summer &weekend 2;s€193-220,d€218-251, www.sokoshotels.fi; Asema-aukio courtyard bar. has anexcellentrestaurant little and asweet as arooftop barwithgreat views,theTorni century ArtNouveau decoration.As well original, fabulouslywhimsical,turn-of-the- contrast, anotherpartof thehotel has and stylishmouldedgrey furnishings.In and feel great, withsuper-inviting beds havehowever, very been recently restored The roomsinthemainpartof thehotel, 74 view commands. it’d befoolish nottopaytheextrathatasea are of inthislevel staying accommodation, ofare classes rooms,but,onceyou several itlookslarge,dock. Although itisn’t;there acrossatwhere ferriesstraight thebigBaltic onthecentralharbour andlooks is right with watery views.ThePalace however land, Helsinki hasvery few hotel rooms allwater andno city which attimesseems from repros of Finnish artonthewalls;avery nicechange lovely convex doors andmanyhave original era. Theroomsare very big–somehave astately elegancetypicalof that conserves accommodations forthe1952Olympicsand vast centralhotel wasbuiltasoneof thekey pniw from€165; .fi; Pohjoisesplanadi29;r€380-420,weekends that canbebooked bygroups. aswellamemorable sauna vistas, tacular chic restaurant andbarwithsimilarlyspec- fabulous viewsover thecity.Above here isa rooms are smallerbuthave balconieswith Sokos Hotel Vaakuna Sokos Hotel Hotel Kämp Hotel Palace Hotel HELSINKI••Sleeping )

pni Thisgrandandstylish hotel Mp p64; (Map

Mp p64; (Map Sunflowers

% Mp p64; (Map % ) Surprisingly,fora 576 111;www.hotelkamp 1345 6660;www.palace ! Thetop-floor pni % 020-123 4610; 020-123 4610; ) This This & summerfrom€99/118; 12;s/dto€195/220, weekends www.cumulus.fi; Kaivokatu liers; you expect aRussian cavalry officer all noble furniture andsparkling chande- are withafabulous restaurant, delightful, sinki’s from 1914on.The commonareas asHel- dances; this graciousbuilding served andavenuestay forconcertsandballroom visiting officers, gentlemen andladiesto centre aplacefor society tomeet, forhigh ish townshada r weekends &summerfrom€125; r weekends www.hilton.com; JohnStenberginranta4;s/dfrom€205/240, pniw €100,summer€95,ste€350-700; r upto€240,weekends 2;standard 4701; www.radissonsas.com; Runeberginkatu a good beer terracea goodbeer ontheforecourt. The breakfast isgenerous buffet andthere’s cilities such asfree wireless Internet access. more expensive andhave afew extrafa- navian feel. Businessclassrooms are slightly have nocarpetandapared-back Scandi- themed styles;Nordicrooms,for example, modern contemporary roomsinarange of andoffers bythenewbusstation ing isright online forthebestoffers. lowerthantherackrates: book stantially The roompricesoffered are usuallysub- ing one of these on the off-chance. ing oneof ontheoff-chance. these rooms have soit’s worthrequest- asauna, bedswithwoodenfittings. Some fortable shiny andnew,featuring particularlycom- while theair-conditioned roomsare all modish couches andgrandperspectives, corporate player. Thepublicareas feature mation fromruralbackwater tosignificant feels like asymbolof Finland’s transfor- intheheartofmodern base theaction.It überhotel makesThis giantsleek astylish on. sinki harbourgoes wards where businessof theserious Hel- room withaviewover thewater, outto- wasteful tocomehere andnottryfora ards –someroomshave abalcony.It’dbe well-sized andcomeinavarietyof stand- area andtransparent lifts.Theroomsare quiet waterside locationtoitssoaringlobby Hakaniemi market, thisimpresses, fromits Around thecornerfromappealing €99, weekends from€63,ste€510-810; €99, weekends 9;r€225-255,summerfrom .scandic-hotels.com; Simonkatu Hotel Cumulus Seurahuone Cumulus Hotel Hilton Helsinki Strand Helsinki Hilton Radisson SASRoyal Radisson Scandic Simonkenttä ) Thisstrikingmodernbuild- seurahuone pni

Mp p64; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map

www.lonelyplanet.com Mp pp60-1 ; (Map

pnisw Mp p64; (Map , which wasa ) pniw MostFinn- % 68380; www % % % 020-123 39351; 69141; ) )

niw &summer€105-120; business to€250,weekends 23;rstandardto€210, www.radissonsas.com; Mikonkatu are someoptions. wantingtoovernightyourself here, there Vantaa airporttothecity,butifyoufind There are fasttransportconnectionsfrom AIRPORT HOTELS are inamore modernwing. justice tothebuilding.Otherrooms does ceilingsandaclassicfeel thatwith high Tsar. Theroomsare spacious, exceedingly to dashinwithanurgent forthe message www.lonelyplanet.com Konstan Möljä BUDGET Restaurants ofselection Russian restaurants picnic. Helsinki foritsexcellent isnotable and somegreat upasummer parkstoset also hasafabulouscaféscene,good markets Finnish cuisineorinternational dining.It ants inFinland,beitforfastfood, authentic Helsinki hasbyfarthebestrange of restaur- EATING Mon-Fri, 2-10pm Sat) Mon-Fri, 14;lunch/dinnerbuffet €7.50/14; denkatu r€140; tels.fi; s/dfrom€176/209,weekend the airportin2007. ting plansinthebud. a littleclaustrophobic andnipsplanespot- don’t have windows,which makes themfeel unfortunatelyand modern,although they Theroomsarethe terminal itself. Nordic The mostconvenient isthissmallhotel in cludes reindeer. Mains, such as fried Baltic meat andvegetable dishes and always in- bread, includessoup, salad, sia). The buffet near (onceFinnish butnowin Rus- maritime décorcomesfrom anoldharbour rustic atmosphere.pleasant, Much of the for heartyhome-style Finnish fare ina able downtownchoice. host of businessfacilities,thisisacomfort- anda With friendly,professional service entered themodernglassfaçade. through retainedwhich onceyouhave has been plenty of ArtNouveau character, someof hotel occupiesabeautifulbuildingwith Helsinki byapark,thismodernbusiness Scandic Gateway SASPlaza Radisson A larger Hiltonhotel isduetoopen at ) Inaquietbutcentralcornerof

Mp pp60-1 ; (Map Thisisagoodplace togo

( %

Mp p64; (Map 818 3600;www.scandic-ho % 694 7504;Hietalah- % h 020-123 4703; pni 11am-10pm p )

Mon-Fri, noon-11pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, €8-12; 17;lunch€7-9,curries denkatu mains€7-15; kauppahalli; on themenu. front. Snackslike quiche andsoupsare also a sunnybackroomandsmallterrace out nents costs€8;there are alsowines,cakes, dish of compo- thedaywithvarioustasty popular withlocalworkers forlunch. The the city’sbestvegetarian cafésandvery h lunch €6-9; Sat, closedJul) €15-25, lunch€25; Sea Horse Sea MIDRANGE at4pm. starts €19. Thedinnerbuffet areherring andsalmon, pricedfrom€11to and good-value menus. multicourse set There’s agoodrange of vegetarian choices andthalis.the menu,includingtandoori with plentyof NorthIndiandisheson 11am to2pmandasunnyterrace. market. There are goodlunch specialsfrom from fruitlessbargain-hunting intheflea andistheplacetotake abreakHietalahti restaurant issituated inthemarket hallat This likeable andauthenticGreek/Cretan liciously delicate) sweetbreads inport sauce influences, includes delicacies such as(de- menu, Finnish withsome Mediterranean rant isdecorated withFinnish artandthe great placefor asmartishmeal. Therestau- originally designed byAlvarAalto andisa fers significantlybetter quality. of cheap lunch dishes,buttheàlacarte of- and soothingvelvety décor. There’s arange placewithfriendlyservice priced Nepalese enter thisisawell- thebusstation, buses there justlike tomake grannyused them! mash: allthedelicious Finnish classicsare fried herring,the meatballs,theliver and inenormousportions. The served staples life, whocomeforitsmenuof home-style quented bypeoplefromallwalksof Helsinki décor hasbarely changed sincethen.It’sfre- inthe1930sand rant wasestablished noon-11pmSat&Sun) Fri, mains €8-18,setmenus€19-21; Knossos Zucchini Mt Everest Mt Everest Satkar Kosmos 10.30am-midnight)

Mp pp60-1; (Map ( h

%

Mp p64; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp p64; (Map ThisHelsinki institutionwas 11am-4pm Mon-Fri) 628 169; Kapteeninkatu 11; mains €12-21; 11;mains€12-21; 628 169;Kapteeninkatu Mp pp60-1; (Map h Thismuch-loved restau- % 11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am 11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, % A Nepalese restaurant ANepalese % HELSINKI ••Eating h 647 255; Kalevankatu 3;mains 647 255;Kalevankatu % 622 2907;Fabianinkatu 4; 611 077; Lönnrotinkatu 26; 611 077;Lönnrotinkatu % 11am-midnight Mon-Sat) Justbywhere the 621 1122; Hietalahden 621 1122;Hietalahden h 6831 5450;Lapinlah- Thisisoneof h 11am-11pm Mon- 10.30am-11pm 75

HELSINKI HELSINKI for alate bite). couple of a goodspot blocksaway(initself the bohemian artists’bar calledKuua reindeer with steaks. Not tobeconfused with readers forits lavish intheirpraises butdeliciousFinnish cuisine,affordable food, withoutceremony anduntillate. range of othertraditionalFinnish forest alongwitha balls; €8),which are served, is famousforitsdelicious ritas flowingfreely.ritas it’s alsoabar,withthetequilas andmarga- chickenand tasty tosay, fajitas. Needless and along,cheery menuwithbigsteaks There’s anattractive dark-woodinterior sidered Helsinki’s bestTex-Mex restaurant. Sun) 2; mains€10-22; solid vegetarian choices. as wellexcellentfishdishesandsome 76 Sun, baruntil3am) 5;mains€8-18; katu 7; mains€10-22; later) 23; mains€10-22; €15-30; ably priced pasta dishes (€8 to€9) and an ably priced pasta within ashopping centre,set with reason- eaters.pasta Downstairs isaspaghetteria, This isa real favourite amongHelsinki’s shared plate of mixed starters. fish, orthesirloinof elk,aswellagreat dishes are actuallymuch such tastier, asthe reindeertry thesautéed (€16), butother that farnorth.Many peoplecomehere to visitors whoaren’tthose goingtomake it playing itupalittlefortheenjoymentof offor ahealthydose northernrusticdécor, restaurant istheplacetocome This Lapp of thenight. fuelling after theshow,andothercreatures in themorning!It’spopularwithactors re- untilaround 4 menu withproperservice afull tious Finnish restaurant which serves floors andbars withagoodand unpreten- this versatiledance placecombinesseveral wholike forthose toeatlate;is aparadise mains €13-20; Sun) Papa Giovanni Kuu Manala Cantina West Cantina Kolme Kruunua Lappi HELSINKI••Eating Manala means ‘hell’,butthis roughly Thisisarecommended placetotry Thisgood-natured placeiswidelycon-

h

Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp p64; (Map

noon-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 1-10.30pmSat&Sun) noon-10.30pm Mon-Fri, Mp pp60-1; (Map h h h Arelic of the1950s, thisplace

h 11am-1am Mon-Fri, 1pm-1amSat & 11am-1am Mon-Fri, Mp p64; (Map

Mp p64; (Map

lunch &dinner Mon-Sat,dinnerSun) 11am-4am Mon-Fri, 2pm-4amSat& 11am-4am Mon-Fri, h % Mp pp60-1; (Map food served 11am-11pm,baropen food served % food 4-11pmMon-Sat,2-11pm 645 550; Annankatu 22;mains 645 550;Annankatu % 2709 0973; Töölönkatu 27; 2709 0973;Töölönkatu % 5807 7707; Dagmarinkatu 5807 7707;Dagmarinkatu % 742 4210; Kasarmikatu 742 4210;Kasarmikatu lihapullat 622 6010; Keskuskatu 622 6010;Keskuskatu % 135 4172;Liisan- (meat-

(1-6pm, €22)ispopular. décor stylishandtheterracegreat. TheSundaybuffet branchesofthisIndianrestaurant. Foodispassable, several 6;mains€12-18; Bulevardi courtyard. A huge serving ofmixed bliniis€19.90. Ahugeserving courtyard. restaurant with alovelysummerterraceinanenclosed €13-23, lunchspecials€9-14; discuss statesecrets; it’spretty small! 2-11pm Sun)IntimateandauthenticThaiplace.Justdon’t mains €10-16; Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnightSat,dinner onlyMon-SatJul) Mon-Fri, mains €24-29,setmenus€56-60; Chez Dominique TOP END Volga Bulevardi Namaskaar Maithai Kabuki ads andmains. and atempting range of soups,sal- Italian rant andwinebarwithhigh-backed chairs café;upstairs isastylishItalian-style restau- h 3; mains€40-50,lunchmenu€39,setmenus€79-125; private, themed dining rooms –all complete It offers taurant. live and seven music nightly This isregarded as the city’stopRussian res- wine cellar. and warmrather thanformal.Interesting isfaultless Theservice perch orsalmon. bining memorably withdelicately handled wildmushrooms com- produce, withtasty class andmakes of use the finestFinnish able summerterrace. in Thefood ishigh huge ship’spropellerbackingan unbeat- spot iteasilywithitsflamingtorch and created alofty reputation You’ll foritself. canal onKatajanokka, thishasrapidly warehouse onthewaterfront acrossthe inarestoredAtmospherically set brick it’s served inachic, intimate diningroom. it’s served There’s afabulouslistof French winesand are menus(pricesexcludedrinks). the set ing exquisite, rich fare, butthespeciality stars. There’s ashortàlacarte menufeatur- choice in Helsinki andhastwoMichelin fine French cuisine,thisisthenumberone flavours allinharmony. anddelicate good Japaneserestaurant, withdécor,service sushi €3-5,mains€10-24)Everythingisasitshouldbeata mains €16-32; Other recommendations: Saslik Nokka Nokka lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinnerSat,closedJul) lunch &dinnerTue-Fri, Mp p64; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map (Map p64 ;

Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map pp60-1 ; pp60-1 ; (Map h h % 11am-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pmSat, 11am-11pm Mon-Fri,

noon-midnight Mon-Sat,4-11pm Sun) Mp p64; (Map % 622 1717; Rikhardinkatu 1;mains 622 1717;Rikhardinkatu % 685 6850; Annankatu 31-33; 685 6850;Annankatu Mp p64; (Map % h % 694 9446; Lapinlahdenkatu 12; 694 9446;Lapinlahdenkatu h 7425 5500; Neitsytpolku 12; 7425 5500; Neitsytpolku % lunch &dinner)Bestof www.lonelyplanet.com 687 7330; Kanavaranta 7; 687 7330;Kanavaranta lunch &dinner)Russian 612 7393; Ludviginkatu 612 7393;Ludviginkatu h % 11.30am-midnight 6220 1155; For

mentie 8; €26-33; penski cathedralloomingoverhead. chandeliers andalarge withtheUs- skylight under the mainoneisextravagantly poised Therein season. are variousdiningareas; gourmet Finnishfood,includingwildgame views backacrossthecity.Thespecialityis the church onKatajanokka island,offers fine for dessert. baked Alaska is Russian)andasensational include borscht, chicken (yesitreally Kiev bear steak (€65);more moderate choices to tickalltheboxes willbeattracted bythe a coupleof menus.Carnivores whowant set Finnish foodwithaFrench accentandhas ItspecializesinRussian andRevolution. restaurant goingsincetheOctober hasbeen Uspensky thisvenerable Russian Cathedral, yourbillsubstantially! raise blinis withRussianorIraniancaviar will chandeliers. Mostmainsare around€24but with plushvelvet, windowsand stained-glass www.lonelyplanet.com Tamminiementien Kahvila Cafés (a typical and tasty cardamon-flavoured(a typicalandtasty tea isexpensive butcomes withahuge terly curious andcharming. Thecoffee or loving granny’scountrycottage andisut- aChekhov playanda flower-cross between inalovelymuseum bitof parkland. It’s like a andneartheUrhoKekkonenArt Museum nextto theCity This memorablecaféisset hapajankatu 3;mains€20-30) hapajankatu Sipuli Bellevue Restaurant the stylish,spired Klippan,setinavillaon Luoto island,byValkosaari. small boatsthatferry dinerstoandfromquaysonthemainland opposite. The mostfamous is islands dotted aroundtheharbour. There are several islandrestaurants, whichare by served folkistoheadoutfordinneroneofthesmall An essentialsummerexperienceforHelsinki SPECIAL:ISLANDRESTAURANTSSOMETHING €5 return fornon-diners andrun every 10 to15minutes duringeating hours. city views ortohave adrink watchingthebig ferries slidingpast.The boatsare around€3to and relaxed. Instead oftheusual guestbook,visitors pinnotes tothechandelierin thelobby. it’s allpretty good.Bestistheatmosphere, whichisvery family-friendly(there’s even a‘dogbar’) squid(€10.90)orafilling seafoodplatteraplenty. Youmight chooseorange-flavoured (€27.90); one.outpost, albeitavery noisyand light,withseafood The comfortable restaurant ischeerful, on Merisatamanranta. It’sonlyacoupleof hundred metres offshore, but it already feels an like Mon-Sat, noon-9pmSun May-Sep) More convivialis Even ifyou’re headingout totheislandsfor the notdining attheserestaurants, it’sworth h

Mp pp60-1; (Map h 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri) noon-10.30pm summer, shorter hrwinter) noon-10.30pm summer,shorter %

Boathouse Mp pp60-1; (Map 622 9280; Kanavaranta 7; mains 7;mains 622 9280;Kanavaranta Justdownfromthe

( % This place, near Thisplace,near 481 003;Tamminie- , a circular two-deck restaurant on , reached restaurant, acirculartwo-deck from ajetty onLiuskasaari,

(Map pp60-1 ; pp60-1 ; (Map % 636 985;Ra- pulla %

6227 1070; Liuskasaari; mains€12-25; 6227 1070;Liuskasaari; great loaves totake away. lunch isgreat buffet valueandtheyalsodo best placesforbreakfast inthecity.The oldest café(opened1861)andoneof the bytheglass. variety of winesserved for lunch, there are anda salads spectacular ments tocoffee (bottomless) orespresso; cellent Finnish Danishpastriesandex- wants. Oversized is aperfect spotforavarietyof and needs esplanadi 33; 8.30am-5pm Sat,10am-5pmSun) 9; buffet breakfast &lunch€8; h 10pm Sat,10am-10pmSun) nadi 37;sandwiches€3-5; strömintie 3;lightmains€7-12; Take tram4orbus24forthisbeauty. chairs of which flyjauntycoloured scarves. bun) andcanbetaken ontheveranda, the classy bistroupstairs too. demand. There’s asumptuouslounge and are seats waiter-served much in race whose ontheEsplanad,withater-and beseen This upmarket caféisaclassicplacetosee sells cakessells andtea totake away. amazing ice-cream it does sundaesandalso Fazersee andchocolate sweets everywhere), Finnish confectionary-making family(you’ll and asmallterrace. Foundedin1891bythe space withcharacter fordays, classic décor cal caféworthdelvinginto,this is ahuge Fazer Strindberg Café Café Esplanad Café Café Ekberg Café Café Ursula Café 7.30am-10pm, 9am-10pmSat)

(Map p64 ; p64 (Map h

9am-10pm Mon-Sat,10am-10pmSun)

Mp p64; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp p64; (Map pulla

Mp p64; (Map % HELSINKI ••Eating h Thislarge, busyspace are goodaccompani- 6159 2959; Kluuvikatu 3; 6159 2959;Kluuvikatu h % % 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, h ThisisHelsinki’s Anotherhistori- 9am-7pm) % h 665 496;Pohjoisespla- 6811 8660;Bulevardi % 7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 681 2030;Pohjois- 5pm-midnight 652 817;Ehren- Down on Down on 77

HELSINKI HELSINKI it’s agoodhideawayfromthetourgroups. dations andexhibitionsof modernart,and creaking tombsbutbyvaulted brickfoun- and goodprices.Youare surroundednotby dral andhasaquietcandlelitatmosphere situated inthecryptof theLutherancathe- place towarm thecockles in winter. The centre, this little soupkitchen isa great Hakaniemi market building northof the onsummerafternoons.tables upplasticchairs set Most foodstalls and snacks andfresh produce such asberries. market, chowder, isgoodforsalmon cheap The kauppatori, alsoknownasthefish touristy, isagreat around. place tonose is oneof thebestinFinlandand,although soups €5-8; grillis inHelsinki. shops, kebab and joints,hot-dogstands (such asHesburger pizza andCarrols), There are plentyof restaurants Quick Eats&Self-Catering Sat) dishes €7-18; waterfront caféwithexcellent focaccias. isacheaper, more Carusel Cafe functional Further aroundthepeninsula(westwards), across fortea fromtheembassyopposite. nips diplomatic front,theBritishambassador laxing spot.Whenthingsare quietonthe with localsandvisitors andisa lovely, re- Harakka island,thisclassycaféispopular Kaivopuisto Park, withgreat viewsover to 78 h bruschettas tomorebruschettas fare. substantial andluscious style concoctions,fromlight savouring finelyflavoured Mediterranean- andbeseen, the beautifulpeoplelike tosee Jun-Aug only) coffee &pastry€2; cinema onsummerevenings. asalittle courtyard atthebackwhich serves There’snouncing comingevents. acovered gallery nextdoorandabignoticeboardan- the university. It’sanartyplacewithasmall popular withstudentspoppingacrossfrom Directly opposite thecathedral,thiscaféis h Sat) Café Engel Café Soppakeittiö The Krypta Café Limón HELSINKI••Drinking Onthe ground floorof theintriguing Limón is essentially acafé-bar Limónisessentially where 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pmSat,10am-10pmSun) 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pmSat) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri,

kauppahalli Mp p64; (Map Thiswelcoming,unusualcaféis h h

Mp p64; (Map 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-3pm10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, h

Mp p64; (Map (Map (Map pp60-1 Kauppahalli; ; Hakaniemen 11.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm 11.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat,11am-5pmSun %

(covered market; Eteläranta;(covered market; % 622 5992; Rikhardinkatu 4; 622 5992;Rikhardinkatu % 709 2455; Kirkkokatu 18; 709 2455;Kirkkokatu 652 776; Senaatintori; 652 776;Senaatintori; , builtin1889,

the basement level. level. the basement kebabs. There’s alsoalarge supermarket in thing fromAsian noodlestoburgers and an atrium-covered foodcourt withevery- h 8, mains€10-20; Sat, 7am-6pmSat) restaurant andcafé sections. when thesun’s notshining. There are also laterwhich or intheevening isfantastic summer. Inside,there’s avaulted cellarbar, ous bands andmusicians regularly playin summer terraces. Itfaces astage where vari- patori, Kappeli hasoneof themostpopular in themiddleof theparknear thekaup- get agreen curry… realize isn’taplaceto that‘Thai Hieronta’ bars. Justmake seedy suredelightfully you stroll alongHelsinginkatu willreveal many tre is full of downmarket character, and a andLabyrinth. Beef the centre. PopularspotsincludeWeGot bertinkatu, ananimated stripjustsouth of ofbars) isthepedestriansection IsoRoo- fantastic. score here, buttheatmosphere a seat is to about 4pmonasunnydayit’sdifficult After the nearbyOnRocksandBarfly. ( the sidewalkinfrontof Eatz above ), and where hundreds of chairs crowd andtables biggest summerterrace isalongMikonkatu tage of the longhours of Helsinki’s daylight. terraces spillouteverywhere totake advan- especially insummerwhenopen-airbeer knowhowtoparty,The Finnscertainly DRINKING (€7)isareader favourite.labaisse with bread andcheese spread; thebouil- delicious, generously portionedsoupscome supermarket. terrace.summer beer also thecornerstone of Helsinki’s biggest has asushi trainandAustralianbar. It’s andeven from ThaiandIndiantoItalian upeverything manages toserve tori, Eatz building ontheeastsideof theRautatien- With avarietyof eateries separate inone h S-Market Kappeli The Kallio districtnortheastof thecen- Another goodspottofindcafés (and Eatz Forum shoppingcentre 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat,noon-6pmSun) 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-11pmSun)

Mp p64; (Map

Mp p64; (Map (Map p64 ; Kasarmikatu; Kasarmikatu; p64; (Map h Anotherwell-stocked central % 9am-midnight, weekends 9am-4am) 9am-midnight, weekends 687 7240; Mikonkatu 15;sushi€3- 687 7240;Mikonkatu % www.lonelyplanet.com 681 244;EsplanadPark;

(Mannerheimintie 20; (Mannerheimintie h 7am-9pm Mon- Located Has Has has classy lounge seating. sages…) inthe bistro upstairs, which also and heartier Czech dishes(pork, boar,sau- afternoon sun. There’s agoodbar menu and aterracewooden tables thatcatches the big range of andbottled beers, solid draught itboastsa nextto thetrainstation, Right bar/restaurant isa great lovers. spotforbeer river Prague,this new thatruns through comics. a trendy littlespotdecorated inhomage to stairs fromMockba isanotherbar,Superbar, to beavenue forregular live jazz.Down- complexisDubrovnik, in thesame which is Duetoopeninaformer cinema speeches. and LPs of Soviet Armyhitsand Brezhnev with asamovar, snacks artery-clogging salami drinking den.It’sunderstated andironic, Russian) recreates Bloc alugubriousEastern ultra-characterful Mockba Moscow in (Café andcheapabout 20pooltables whilethe beer, grungycrowd.Coronahas attract asavvy, makers AkiandMikaKaurismäki andboth distinct bars are runbythequirkyfilm- www.lonelyplanet.com meals €8-12; rikinkatu 11-15; rikinkatu Corona &Ka Vltava panied bya kerma into a four orfive cups. half acup’,whichinreality turnsouttobe ‘no’ andthenaccept,bysaying‘OK,just coffee.being served Traditionallyyousay restaurants. is includedwiththelunchspecialatmost rol stationshave cafés,andacupofcoffee cafés inevery townandvillage;even pet- is whatdrives Finland. There are dozens of five cupsadayeach! ofthe stuff annually,somefourto 10 kilos that seestheaverage persondownalmost highest consumersof coffee, alove affair It’s becauseFinns are amongtheworld’s many cafés inFinland, wondernomore. If youever wondered whythere are so CAPITAL OFEUROPE HELSINKI –KAHVI DRINKING To doastheFinns do,pouryour Seldom willyouvisitahousewithout Even outsidethebustlingbigcity, coffee (cream). Itistraditionallyaccom-

kuppi Mp p64; (Map h h ф 11am-3am orlater) andaddsome pulla e Mockba 11am-2am) % (cinnamonbun). 766 3650; Elielinaukio 2;bar 766 3650;Elielinaukio

Mp p64; (Map These two utterly twoutterly These maito Namedforthe % (milk)or 611 200;Ee- kahvi

13; tapas€3-5; mid-Jun–early Aug) imintie 56; 2pm-2amSat) Fri, h also has aterrace. are regular DJs playing onweekends andit and has a stylishbutbohemian feel. There vourite of musicians, actors and students, popular barisafa- centre, thisdeservedly 3pm-3am Tue, 3pm-4amWed&Thu) mains €10-22; rack to browse themusicpress.rack tobrowse in,andamagazine feel, awindowtobeseen a relaxed, place. comfortable There’s a’70s classier thanmanyof itsbrethren butstill intriguing Kallio district,thisbarisalittle Sun) 26; h thing nicebefore orafter the show. it’s theperfect placeforaglassof some- with itswooden drawers andglassbottles, upmarket restaurant. Very atmospheric beautifully converted intoawinebarand thisformerpharmacyhasbeenhouse, tor, butthefoodisdecentvaluetoo. going injustforadrinkandride on atrac- Cowboys.It’sworth guys fromtheLeningrad Aki Kaurismäki crazy anddesignedbythose Cold Waryears). It’sownedbyfilmmaker tor manufacturer heydaywasinthe whose isaCzech trac- ironic tractordécor(‘Zetor’ Finnish restaurant andpubwithdeeply fortheirgreattable views. and theSokosVaakuna hotels are alsono- in bottles.Therooftop bars of thePalace good winesbytheglass andCoopers Stout yard TorninPiviisacute littleterrace with tothetop.Downstairs, thecourt- staircase to the12thfloorandnarrowwinding just fortheviewsof thecity.Take thelift Sokos Hotel Torni,andisworthascending popular sangria. of aselection winesbytheglasspasta, and erous; there isalso(howdidyouguess?) are The tapas cheap andgen-friendly staff. nean décor,anelegantyoungcrowdand welcoming barwithquirkyMediterra- Ateljee Bar Ateljee Carelia Carelia Rytmi Kola Bar Tapasta Zetor h noon-2am; 11am-2am Mon-Sat; Thisisatinyperch ontheroof of the 2pm-2am Mon-Thu, &Sat,2pm-1am noon-2amFri

Mp pp60-1; (Map

(Map p64 ; p64 (Map h Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp pp60-1 ; (Map

h 11am-1am Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am Sat,closed 11am-1am Mon-Fri, h i

Mp p64 ; (Map (Map (Map p64 ; SokosHotelTorni,Yrjönkatu 11am-4am Sat,3pm-1amSun&Mon, Thisisanintimate and 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Right opposite Right theopera ) Right intheheartof Right the % % HELSINKI •• Drinking HELSINKI ••Drinking % 666 966; Mannerheimintie 3-5; 666 966;Mannerheimintie i % 694 8983; Helsinginkatu 13B; 694 8983;Helsinginkatu % 7231 5550;ToinenLinja 2; ) Northeastof the 640 724; Uudenmaankatu 640 724;Uudenmaankatu 2709 0976;Mannerhe- Thisisaspoofy

79 HELSINKI HELSINKI night, lateratweekends) Saturday. 5pmto8pm Tuesdayto 3pm andbetween 2pmtoMikonkatu onthehourbetween of town.Itdepartsfromitsterminus on pricey butaquaintwaytodoquick tour andkauppatori. It’s abitOpera House east of withstopsatthe thetrainstation, redbright pubtramfromMikonkatu, just inginkatu 20) inginkatu Areena by touring bands are staged at the tourist office. Major rockandpop concerts see ki’s nightlife. cated butdown-to-earth airaboutHelsin- dance clubs,there’s generally asophisti- bars andcafés to rockandjazzclubs full range of trends, fromhole-in-the-wall offer, As particularly music-wise. wellasa and clubshave blossomed. There’s aloton but inrecent years thecity’sbars, cafés andnightlife entertainment scene, tal-city In manyways Helsinki hasatypicalcapi- ENTERTAINMENT there’s asummerterrace. do agoodlunchand (€7.90)onweekdays atweekends. Theyalso summer clubnights gets packed withstudents andrunsvarious It beautiful 19th-centurystudents’house. 80 sum of €2. inplasticfortheprincely served and beer knotes (thenamemeans‘rubbishbank’), of character, aceilingdecorated withban- penny-pinching executives. It’sgotbags mix of peoplefrommuttering drunksto on theKallio trailanddrawsareal beer know andispopularwithstudents. bylocalsinthe drinks. It’swell-patronised A no-frills winebarwithreasonably cheap times live musichere. Helsinki’s favourite bar;there’s alsosome- and piercingsare musicians hangoutandblackleather,vinyl scene,thisisaplacewhererock andmetal The trendiest spotinthethrivingFinnish May–mid-Aug) .koff.net, in Finnish; €7,beers€5; tickets Bar Loose For events, concerts andperformances, For events, Erottaja Pub TramSpårakoff Roska Pankki Roska Vanha HELSINKI••Entertainment Helsinki This Week

( %

Mp p4; anremni 3; Mannerheimintie p64; (Map

. Thisisoneof theclassicstops Mp p64; (Map 020-494 076; opposite )

Insummeryoucancatch the Mp p64; (Map

Mp pp60-1; (Map de rigueur % Thismusicbarisinthe %

Mp p64; (Map 611 196; Erottajankatu 15-17) 611 196;Erottajankatu orinquire atthe city 586 1819; Fredrikinkatu 34) 586 1819;Fredrikinkatu . . It’s been voted . It’sbeen % % h 735 488;Hels- 123 4600;www h Tue-Sat mid- 11am-mid- Hartwall Hartwall

15; 5; 8; tonkatu times hosts big-namelive acts. ing theoccasional Finnish celebrity andat crowd, includ- older,well-heeled a slightly minimum of 24.Uniq definitely worthdoing once. There’s an age able toaskfora glass of water…) but tap to enter. It’sexpensive (andyouwon’tbe degrees; you get furryparka lentasuitable bar,thelot.Inside, it’sminusfivetables, outof ice– this isabarliterally carved almostopposite ClubHelsinki, Lost &Found 42; stairs and tightly packedstairs andtightly downstairs club. such andattractsallsortstoitsrelaxed up- now isfartoomixed toreally belabelledas and found’theme. Originallyagaybar,it and eccentricoriginaldécoronthe‘lost tracts plentyof celebritiesandpartypeople. feel particularlyFinnish, butat- It doesn’t beautifully designedbaronthemiddlelevel. tre has spacefor300peopleandthere’s a The ultrachic clubinsidetheSwedishThea- h companied bysomeexcellentDJs. sipping somethingcoolandalcoholic, ac- draws on,itbecomesaplacetobeseen of terminals (perhour €5).As thenight good-quality Internet accessandhasheaps offers thebusandtrainstations tween complexbe- little caféintheLasipalatsi the minimumage is22. acts, withbig-nameDJsatweekends, when thereDuring theweek isavarietyof local it tothecoolerbackdancefloorif youcan! dodgy wallpaperandworse carpet; make crowd. Theinterior ispretty with tacky, with ayouthfulandtrendy Helsinkian this isamainstream danceclubpopular Friday andSaturday. to get inaftertion. It’sdifficult 11pmon crowd lookingforlate-nightdancefloor ac- for demandingpeople’andattracts ayoung inaformerchurchset claimstobea‘disco 4am) h On the Rocks Teatteri mbar Helsinki Club Helsinki Highlight Arctic Icebar Arctic h h 9am-midnight, lateratweekends) Thispopularbarhasagreat atmosphere 10pm-4am Wed-Sat) bar from nooninsummer, 4pm inwinter, clubfrom 9pm-4am)

Mp p64; (Map h

Mp p64; (Map

11pm- 4am) (Map p64 ; p64 (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map

Mp p64; (Map Thisplaceatmospherically

Mp p64; (Map % Mp p64; (Map % % 6124 5420; Mannerheimintie 22; 6124 5420;Mannerheimintie Ifyou’re partyinglate, Inthecavernous Uniq 681 1130;Pohjoisesplanadi2) 680 1010; Annankatu 6; 680 1010;Annankatu %

% itself ispopularwith itself www.lonelyplanet.com % % 278 1855; Yliopistonkatu 278 1855;Yliopistonkatu 734 5822; Fredrikinkatu 734 5822;Fredrikinkatu 612 2030; Mikonkatu 612 2030; Mikonkatu 4332 6340;Yliopis- Thistrendy h to to

door… Parliamentthat’s because isnext House any others are allowedtobe. Localssay a romanticterrace here, openlater than There’sNew Orleansjazzmostnights. also enjoy thetraditional,Dixieland,swingand cellar. Amature, whisky-sippingcrowd inaconvertedbest jazzclubs,housed coal piste National Opera are subtitled inFinnish. ing summer. Performances of the Finnish classical concerts are heldhere, butnot dur- place tocallbook tickets. inginkatu 58; tickets from€15) 58;tickets inginkatu people. runbythesame smaller venue, Semi-Final, usually around€10.Nextdoorisanother, of andthecovernight theweek charge is international groups.There’s abandevery both up-and-cominglocalactsandbigger sinki’s legendary rockvenues, thisattracts Tavastia Music Live 9pm) www.lonelyplanet.com concerts in Broadcasting Corporation features popular Symphony Orchestra (RSO) of theFinnish indoor performances insummer).The toMaygenerally September (there are no isoffice. The operaandconcertseason sinki This Week For concertsandperformances, see &Ballet Opera, Theatre is €6,withaminimumage of 23. Entryatweekends afountain. DJs andeven which hasfrequent live rockmusic,nightly theme. Downstairs isadark,moodyclub, terrace andarock’n’roll andpooltable, tion, thischeerful barhasagreat summer .fi; Urho Kekkosenkatu 4; Kekkosenkatu .fi; Urho 4400; www.finlandia.hel.fi; Mannerheiminitie 13) 4400; www.finlandia.hel.fi; Mannerheiminitie a terrace andacoupleof restaurants. looking outover abayof theharbour,with any timeit’sanicetoweringstone building jazzact,butat nearly alwaysahigh-quality The bestdayisWednesday,when there’s ing oncontemporary jazzandrockfusion. one of Helsinki’s toplive musicbars, focus- h ranta 6) Juttutupa Opera House Storyville 6pm-4am Mon-Sat) Acrossthesquare fromthetrainsta- ( % Westof Hakaniemi is metrostation Mp pp60-1; (Map 0600 900900;www.lippupiste.com)

Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map pp60-1 ; pp60-1; (Map Finlandia Talo

Mp pp60-1 ; (Map orinquire atthetourist Thisisoneof Helsinki’s % h 694 8511;www.tavastiaklubi % 9pm-late) % Opera, ballet and 742 4240;Säästöpankin-

408 007; Museokatu 8; 408 007;Museokatu Mp pp60-1; (Map % Oneof Hel- 4030 2211; Hels- isthe . % Lippu- Hel- 402 house European andworldfilms. European house courtyard, thiscinemaoffers top-grade art- www.lippupalvelu.fi; tickets €8-15) www.lippupalvelu.fi; tickets .kansallisteatteri.fi, inFinnish; 1) Läntinenteatterikuja .kansallisteatteri.fi, .helsinginjaahalli.fi; Nordenskiöldinkatu 13) Nordenskiöldinkatu .helsinginjaahalli.fi; -areena.com; tickets €13-30) -areena.com; tickets a few years back. the group stages of theChampions League havingtitles and even madeaforay into ter United, having won 21Finnish league Finland has toaRealMadrid ora Manches- HJK Helsinki. thing Theteam’s the closest thisisthehomegroundofympic Stadium, Forum Centre. Helsinki. the homeof local SuperleaguesideJokerit formorehas seating than13,000fans.It’s yearand World Championshipsthatsame in 1997,Hartwall hosted theIceHockey tre (bus23or69tram7A7B).Built this arena, about4kmnorthof thecitycen- matches top-level isat the bestplacetosee and Aprilicehockey reigns supreme and ..fi, in Finnish; Salomonkatu 15) inFinnish;.finnkino.fi, Salomonkatu Sporting events inHelsinkiSporting events are numerous. Sport Finnish andSwedishsubtitiles. of which showoriginal-version filmswith There are cinemasinHelsinki, several all Cinemas in the Olympic stadium complex. in theOlympicstadium matches are alsoplayedatthis indoorarena the language yet. ifyouhaven’texperience even mastered Performances are inFinnish butquite an a beautifulbuildingbythetrainstation. The FinnishNationalTheatre occupies 16) membership (€4),thenadmissionis€3.50. anannual Mondays. Youmustpurchase lection, withthree screenings adayexcept Film Archive showsclassicsfromtheircol- .sea.fi; Eerikinkatu 15) .sea.fi; Eerikinkatu recent blockbusters. of Europe’slargest multiplexes andscreens Anothermainstream cinema,inthe Orion Theatre Orion Kansallis Teatteri Kansallis Helsingin Jäähalli Helsingin Hartwall Areena Hartwall Diana Fnar Stadium Finnair Tennispalatsi Forum

Mp p64; (Map Mp p64; (Map HELSINKI •• Entertainment HELSINKI ••Entertainment

Mp pp60-1; (Map Mp pp60-1; (Map Thisiswhere theFinnish % %

Mp pp60-1; (Map ( Mp pp60-1; (Map (Map p64 ; p64; (Map % 0600 007 007; Mannerheimintie 0600 007007;Mannerheimintie 612 3622; Yrjönkatu 8) 612 3622;Yrjönkatu Between September Between 0600 10800;www.hartwall % NexttotheOl- % % 0600 007007;www % 6154 0201;www Thisisone 1733 1331;www % 477 7110;www Icehockey 0600 10800; Ina 81

HELSINKI HELSINKI nadi 31) .disndatrecords.com; Shop 18 Kaisaniemi Metro Station) Metro .disndatrecords.com; Shop18Kaisaniemi 10am-4pmSat&Sun) 8pm Mon-Fri, mas meeting overmas meeting cinnamonbuns. executives asitiswithauntiesandgrand- Marimekko isaspopularwithyoungNokia colours loved asever. sneer; Let fabric labellives onwithitswarmfloral century later. designsstilllookmodernalmosta whose Aalto, theFinnish architect andinnovator thefurnitureto selling andfabricsof Alvar homewares, thisshopisespeciallydevoted of (paid)listingsof interior designshops. stores. hasagoodbrochure Thetouristoffice filled withfunkyboutiquesandsecondhand antiques shopsandIsoRoobertinkatu is and Fredrikinkatu. Mariankatu hasmany shoppingstreetstable are Aleksanterinkatu the maintouriststreet intown.Otherno- dios. Pricesare onPohjoisesplanadi, high from theavant-garde Finnishdesign stu- thelatestcourse, furniture andhomewares particularly forNordicfashionand,of Helsinki isanexcellentspotforshopping, SHOPPING 82 Kauppatori Markets Eteläesplanadi 18) walk afurther200mnorth. worthwhile. Take tram6toitsterminus and ceramics companyisbleaklylocated but let andexhibitionof thislegendary Finnish Fish, seasonal fruitand berriesand Fish, seasonal itisheavying, although withtour groups. food market forlocalsandwellworth visit- This famous market isstillanimportant service. souvenirs and lotsmore. It offers anexport jewellery,Moomintroll jewellery, Lapponia as wellFinnishtextiles, Kalevala Koru Finnish souvenirs andSámi handicrafts, Finland, thisissurprisinglywellpriced for The oldestandlargest department store in forms of musicfromFinlandandabroad. Here istheplacetolookforCDsandother are local handi- alsoplenty of selling stalls direct from boatsmoored atthe quay.There are(sausages) sell andpeopleeven onsale Stockmann Arabia Artek Dis ‘n’DatRecords Marimekko HELSINKI••Shopping Finland’smostfamousclothingand

( % Mp p64; (Map

( h

020-439 3507;Hämeentie135;

Mp p64; (Map Mp p64; (Map As wellasotherNordic 6.30am-2pm winter,longer hrsummer)

% Mp p64; (Map % % 6132 5277; www.artek.fi; 6132 5277;www.artek.fi; 1211; Aleksanterinkatu 52) 1211; Aleksanterinkatu 686 0240;Pohjoisespla- Thefactoryout- % 680 1118;www makkara h 10am-

8am-8pm dailyJun-Aug) h ter. 19km northof Helsinki. complex.Theairport isinVantaa,station nair.fi; 1; Asema-aukio 25831; www..com) dions, butit’spretty downmarket. clothestobrokenthing fromused accor- centre tocentralHelsinki: you’llfindany- Katajanokka terminals (Map pp60–1 ) are off the central kauppatori: Kanava and p346 formore details. toTallinn.maran and hydrofoil service See and Tallinn. There isalsoaregular cata- International ferries travel toStockholm Boat generally atleastonceaday. to20Finnish cities– withflights services, ies offer international aswelldomestic Finland byair. Finnairanditssubsidiar- p342 formore informationonreaching Europe andAsia onmanyairlines.See There are toHelsinki flights fromtheUSA, Air THERE&AWAY GETTING tive tothemainoneatharbour. food market andisalesstouristyalterna- metro stopisatraditional-styleFinnish of halli isaparadise Finnishfoodstalls. prices. Nearby,theornate indoorkauppa- crafts andsouvenirs at(sometimes) inflated after acrash,butwere dueto resume. suspended hadbeen ing, weekend services Attimeof writ- €228 foraguaranteed seat. ticket (bookatleast two daysinadvance)to one wayandcostsfrom€118for a limited Tallinn andback.Thetriptakes 20minutes Sat) fice some Finnishdestinations.The and antique stalls. Takeand antiquestalls. tram6. lahti fleamarket and hasamixture of craft Hietalahti. Trams1and1Astopopposite.Hietalahti. and qualityisusuallybetter here thanat ular indoorfleamarket inKallio. Therange 8am-4pm Sat) The quickest waytoTallinn isbyhelicop- Kauppahalli Four of thefive ferry terminals are just fleamarket Hietalahti kauppahalli Hakaniemi Vallila Thisrenovated market isattheHieta- 7am-10pm

Copterline (Map p64 ; reservations reservations p64; (Map

(Aleksis Kivenkatu 17; (Aleksis Kivenkatu Thisandthekauppatoriat ) flieshourlyfromHelsinki to

( % ( h h 0200 18181;www.copterline.com; The closest secondhand secondhand Theclosest 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, hasbudget to flights Mon-Sat) % www.lonelyplanet.com

( h ( h 0600 140140;www.fin h isinthetrain 9am-5pm) 8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Blue1 Finnair of- Apop- ( % 0600 14, Katajanokka & Makasiini terminals) &Makasiini 14, Katajanokka 10, Länsiterminaali) www.lonelyplanet.com tickets at thenew underground and express long-distance Purchase bus Bus archipelago. See p91 formore details. the southeast through Helsinki andPorvoo, In summerthere are daily ferries between Line Viking Tallink Silja Line Line Nordic Jet Linda Line Line Eckerö (late Junetomid-August). season high tourist office. Bookinadvanceduringthe the centre fromthecity or(insomecases) terminal, fromaferry company’sofficein West Terminal), by bus 15. isserved last terminal, Länsiterminaali (Map pp60–1 , p64 ) terminals bytrams3Band3T. The Olympia (Map pp60–1 ) andMakasiini (Map bybus13andtrams2,2V4, served Kanava Terminal)Kanava &Olympiaterminals) 2, Makasiini Ferry inHelsinki: companyoffices Ferry tickets atthe maybepurchased lanes. The with it’sloftycastleandquaint,narrow minals toTallinn’s magnificentOldTown, p341 forentryrequirements toEstonia. there byscheduledchopper( opposite ). See other endofthepricescale,youcanget ( p347 ). The ferry ischeaper,whileatthe do thetripseveral timesdailyin90minutes Tallinn andthecatamaranshydrofoils Tallinn‘s medievalOldTown. and the turrets andspiresHelsinki of There’s abigcontrastbetweenmodern Estonian capitalof Tallinn isvery easy. land, andadayorovernight triptothe closetothecontinentalmain- is remarkably from therest ofEurope attimes,Helsinki Although Finland canseemvery remote TRIPPING TOTALLINN the usefulTallinn Card sightseeing pass. .tourism.tallinn.ee) It’s a15-minute walkfromtheferry ter- It’s 80kmacrosstheGulfofFinland to (Map (Map p64 ; Mp p64; (Map ( Mp p64; (Map % Mp p64; (Map tourist office ( 668 9700; Makasiini terminal) 668 9700;Makasiini % % % 681 770; Kanava terminal) 681 770;Kanava is in the heart ofitandsells isintheheart 2282 1222; Erottajankatu 19, 2282 1222;Erottajankatu % % 0203-74552; Mannerheimintie 0203-74552; Mannerheimintie 123 577; Mannerheimintie 123 577;Mannerheimintie 228 8544; Mannerheimintie 228 8544;Mannerheimintie

( % 645 7777;www Kamppi Bus Bus Kamppi Sat, 9am-6pmSun) before 6pm. shouldbebookedthese theprevious day €20 for1or2persons. Ifleaving Helsinki, including theoperahouse. request Italsostopsatseveral stops night). minutes, 20minutes, every 5amtomid- the FinnairofficeatAsemaaukio (€5.20,30 Helsinki cyclingmapatthetourist office. quality bike paths. holdof Get acopyof the is flatandthere are well-marked andhigh- Helsinki isidealforcycling:theinnercity Bicycle ( Square) nexttothemaintrainstation. (Railway and platform10atRautatientori port (allinternational anddomesticflights) Vantaa notvalid)shuttlesbetween Card air- Bus 615(€3.40, 30to50minutes, Helsinki To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING The Train Station you return it toanystand. thatlocksthem, thenreclaimstand itwhen bikes are free: youdeposit a€2coininto the in summeryou’ll beluckytoget one. The dius of 2kmfromthekauppatori –although tive green ‘City Bikes’ withinara- atstands bike 2½ hours) andTurku(€28.10,2½hours). (€46.70, five tosixhours), (€28.10, hours), (€77.40,11½hrs), Savonlinna (€32.30,four hours), to seven (€36.90, fourtosixhours), (€49,five dailydepartures several includingJyväskylä from here toallof Finland.Destinationswith wing, whilelonger-distance alsodepart buses toEspooinone a terminal forlocalbuses that gotoStPetersburg andMoscow. for international ,includingtheones northeast. There ticket isaseparate counter west, Tampere inthe inthenorthandLahti lines, withregular trainsfromTurkuinthe sinki istheterminus forthree mainrailway nel withtheHelsinki metrosystem. Hel- city centre andislinked bypedestriantun- % There are also door-to-door The cityof Helsinki provides 300distinc- Finnair buses For something more sophisticated,

0600 555555;www.airporttaxi.fi) ( rautatieasema % (Frederikinkatu; (Frederikinkatu; 8502 2850; www.greenbike.fi; Mannerheimintie Mannerheimintie 8502 2850; www.greenbike.fi; HELSINKI •• Getting Around HELSINKI ••Getting or on the bus itself. There’s oronthebusitself.

( % (train station) isinthe (trainstation) h 0307-23746) 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm 7am-5pm 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, departfrom costingfrom airport taxis airport Green- 83

HELSINKI HELSINKI Sun) free mapavailable atthecitytourist office. Parking Guideforthe InnerCity of Helsinki around thecity;forlocationsconsult free, long-orshort-term parkingareas cost €0.50to€1perhour. There are afew and canbeabigheadache. Metered areas common inHelsinki. SAS Royalhotel. Motorcyclerental is not panies include give themaringtofindthenewlocation. they willhave moved, socheck thewebsite or bikes €10/20/70).By thetimeof publication, €15 for24hours, (hybrid or€50perweek Children’s tickets are usually half price. five days, and€12 fora24-hour group ticket. single ticket, €8.50/17/25.50 forone/three/ as Vantaa andEspoo which cost€3.40for a by busor traintoneighbouring citiessuch where withinHelsinki (see p62 ). Helsinki gives youfree Card travel any- foracouple.value even Alternatively, the to fourchildren) costs€8,making itbetter a 24-hourgroup ticket (twoadults and up €5.40/10.80/16.20 forone/three/five days; is €1.80fullfare and€1.50concession. it.Asingletramticketfirst use (notransfers) machinethe stamping onboardwhenyou unlimited transfers butmustbevalidated in inadvance. when purchased Theticket allows onboard,€1.40 costs €2whenpurchased hour flat-fare ticket foranyHKLtransport trams andaferry toSuomenlinna. Aone- Helsingin Kaupungin Liikennelaitos Kaupungin Helsingin network. Thecity’spublictransport system, line andreasonably comprehensive transport foot orbybicycleand.there’s alsoametro HelsinkiCentral iseasy toget aroundon Transport Public % imintie 44) pp60-1; (Map ( city centre. Thebigcompaniesinclude canbe rentedCars attheairportorin &Motorcycle Car 13A2; 84 .fi) north of thecentre, and % Parking inHelsinki isstrictlyregulated Some of themore economical rental com- There are alsoregional tickets fortravel Tourist tickets at canbepurchased AROUNDHELSINKI••Suomenlinna operates buses, metroandlocaltrains, operates buses, 686 6500; Malminkatu 24) 686 6500;Malminkatu rents outqualitybikes for€10perday, 441 155; www.avis.fi; Hietaniemenkatu 6) 441 155;www.avis.fi; Hietaniemenkatu h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-2pm 10am-3pmSat,10am-2pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, a few blocksnorthof thecentre. % 020-555 2300; www.hertz.fi; Mannerhe- 020-555 2300;www.hertz.fi; Lacara

( % near the Radisson neartheRadisson 719 062;Hämeentie12) Budget

(HKL; www.hkl

; and (Map pp60-1 ; pp60-1; (Map Hertz Avis , a , a

was named Sveaborg (Swedish fortress). part of theempire It againstRussian attack. was founded in1748toprotect theeastern The greatest fortress of theSwedish empire History row strait–it’squite asight. to wave thenar- asthe ferries through sail people gatherat Suomenlinna’s mainquay ing intheirfront windows. wearily accustomed tocuriousfacespeer- –therethough are manyresidents, who are tion forlocals.It’snotjustaplace tovisit ramparts are afavourite picnickingdestina- Swedes in1808. itfrom the tory whentheRussiansseized the sceneof amajor inFinnish event his- Heritage Site (the‘fortress of Finland’)was cluster oftight islands, thisUnescoWorld ona tripfromthecity.Set day orhalf-day from Helsinki kauppatori, isavery popular Suomenlinna, onlya15-minute ferry ride SUOMENLINNA HELSINKI AROUND You canphoneforacabon orSenaatintori. busstation train station, locatedqueue atoneof atthe stands thetaxi thestreet one,hailoneoff orjoina need rushhours.morning andevening Ifyou Vacant are taxis hardtocomebyduring Taxi about €10to€15. somewhere like costs theOlympic Stadium A tripacrosstownfromthekauppatorito se p67). (see to Suomenlinna(see p86 ) andtothezoo and tramroutes. an easilyunderstood mapof thebus,metro is andthecitytouristoffice, HKL offices northeast toMellunmäki andVuosaari. holahti inthewestern partof thecityand to 11.30pm.Themetrolineextends toRuo- rundailyfromabout6am Metro services asdomanyofpasses, thecity’sR-kiosks. Hakaniemi tickets sell and metrostations and andtheRautatientori bus station HKL offices Every 5pmand6pm between evening The fieldsaroundSuomenlinna’s stone Boat services leave fromthekauppatori Boat services The Helsinki RouteMap,

( h Mon-Fri) www.lonelyplanet.com attheKamppi % available at 0100 0700. ὈὈ ὈὈ in 1918, after Finland’s independence. conditions. The present namewas chosen many Communist prisoners here inbrutal ,theWhites incarcerated it’s stillhome toanaval During the base. continues tohave significanceas military Finland gainedindependence in1917,and Helsinki in1812.Itremained Russian until wasmovedFinnish capital fromTurku to large fortress, partto the superbsea the of 1808,andrenamed Viapori.Thanks in surrendered totheRussiansafter the war 4200. had 4600residents whereas Helsinki had town inFinland,after .In1806it www.lonelyplanet.com (95km) (20km); To Turku Hanko (70km) To Ekenäs(45km); AROUND HELSINKI After aprolonged Sveaborg attack, was Sveaborg largest was once thesecond National Nuuksio Park Around Helsinki Masala Luoma Around Helsinki 1 ETELÄ-SUOMEN 50 Keskus Espoon Perttula Espoo Kehä/ E18 (Grankulla) Ring III To Hämeenlinna(45km); 51 Tampere (105km) 1304 120 Museum Ski Centre Park &Serena Serena Water Gallen- Kallela Nurmijärvi Klaukkala University Myyrmäki Laajalahti E12 Sep, 10am-4pmOct-Apr) Sep, Sun Apr &Oct) h Centre the bridge isthe nected toeach otherbya smallbridge. At con- andSusisaari, islands, IsoMustasaari Mostattractionsareseums. ontwo main Suomenlinna andadmission toallthemu- The Helsinki allowsfree travel Card to Sights &Activities illuminating 30-minute audiovisual display. of Suomenlinna asitlooked in1808andan seum building isthe In thesame maps andguided walkingtours insummer.

Kehä/Ring I 3

Pihlajasaari Ehrensvärd Museum Ehrensvärd

10am-5pm May-Aug, 11am-4pm Sep, 11am-4pm Sat & 11am-4pm Sat& 11am-4pm Sep, 10am-5pm May-Aug, Vantaanjoki Ὀ

Museum Aviation (HELSINGFORS) (

AROUND HELSINKI••Suomenlinna % Haltiala ( % International HELSINKI 139 Helsinki- Vantaa Airport 4050 9691;admission€5; (porcelain factory (Vanda) preserves an 18th-century officer’s an18th-century officer’s preserves Vantaa 668 800) 137 outlet) Arabia Suomenlinna Matkailukeskus 137 Järvenpää ETELÄ-SUOMEN 6miles 10km 0 0 Museum Children's Museum & Tuomarinkylä with tourist information, withtouristinformation, Heureka Science Centre Tikkurila featuring a scale model featuring ascalemodel E75 Inventory Chamber Visitor Chamber Visitor Inventory

( Tuusulanjärvi ὈὈ % Swimming Hall Itäkeskus Gulf ofFinland Järvenpää 684 1850; adult/child €3/1; 684 1850;adult/child €3/1; Krapi Hotelli 4 Halosenniemi h Suomenlinna Mu- 7 Ainola St Petersburg(350km) 10am-6pm May- 170 140 E75 To Porvoo(20km); 50 Villinki Camping Rastila 4 148 Mustavuori (48km) 152 E18 Lahti To (Sibbo)

85 HELSINKI HELSINKI admission €4, hostel. Set inahistoric building that was hostel. Set Helsinki is tobed down at this HI-affiliated enjoyable alternative incentral tostaying mission €4; combination ticket (€6). historycanbevisitedna’s military witha away astheUK. be from12mto32mlongandasfar in thedrydockatanygiven time. Theycan the 1750s.As manyastwodozenshipsare other workers have buildingshipssince been isthe seum Swedish stoves. Opposite Ehrensvärd Mu- charts, portraits andblue-and-white sea tile dozensofhome andcontains modelships, 86 Hostel Suomenlinna Hostel Sleeping &Eating the WWII-eraU-boat submarines bythe1947Treaty of and hibition. Finlandwasforbiddentopossess more heavy artilleryinabunker-style ex- 5296; admission€4; tion .com; Suomenlinna C9;dm€20,s/d/tr €40/50/75;recep- Barracks Gallery apple pie. Nexttothemainquay, delicioushomemade a caféhere serving achievement of PiippaTandefelt. There’s tion of hundreds of dolls–thepersonal but isnowelectric andisstillinuse. –thebeacon wasoriginallygaslight house church intheworldtodouble asalight- built bytheRussians in1854.It’stheonly some of thetunnels. will comeinhandyifyoufancyexploring here, asthere are somenastydrops.Atorch carefullooked. withyoungchildren Be best impression of howthefortress once island;pokingaroundheresisaari gives the and cannonsare atthesouthernendof Su- teresting temporary exhibitions. claustrophobic. withitswartimecrewthise –it’snotforthe try. Youcantake alookinsideandsympa- the few submarinesremaining inthecoun- artillery. commemorates WWIIanddisplaysheavy admission €4; daily May-Aug, 11am-6pmJul) daily May-Aug, Three relating museums toSuomenlin- The Old bunkers, crumbling fortress walls The delightful AROUNDHELSINKI••Suomenlinna h 8am-9pm; church h Coast Artillery Museum Coast Artillery h h 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr & Sep, 11am-5pm 11am-4pm Sat&SunAprSep, on Iso Mustasaari islandwas onIsoMustasaari shipyard 11am-6pm Jul&Aug) 11am-6pm mid-May–Aug)

( ni h Toy Museum

10am-5pm Tue-Sun) h ( % where sailmakers and ) 11am-6pm mid-May–Aug) Aninteresting and 684 7471;www.leirikoulut isaprivate collec- Vesikko Manege

( displaysstill

% ( ( % % offers in- isoneof 668 417;ad-

1814 5295; 1814 6238; ( % Jetty Jetty 1814

Mon-Fri mid-Sep–Apr, lunch & dinner daily May-mid Sep) lunch&dinnerdailyMay-mid mid-Sep–Apr, Mon-Fri night Mon-SatMay–mid-Sep) and more relaxed. similarly memorable outlookbutischeaper halla andrunbyit,thispizzaplace hasa place toenjoyone. courtyardterrace isagood and theenclosed brewed here (alager, analeandaporter) lunch Three buffet. tacular typesof are beer excellent brewery-restaurant withaspec- along atthemainferry quay,thisisan Buy tickets atthe pier. utes, three timeshourly, 6.20am to2.20am). Presidential Palace (return €3.60, 15min- at thekauppatori inHelsinki, opposite the HKL ferries departfrom thepassenger quay &Around There Getting &Satsummer) noon-10pm Fri a small peaceful spotamongtheramparts.There’s willhelpyoublendin)andfinda and beer nic (carryingenormousquantitiesof cider could doasthelocalsandbringapic- ple of restaurants onSuomenlinna,oryou get the key code. during reception hours andremember to live ontheisland,soyoumust check in tonote thatthewardendoesn’t important ple kitchen, aswellalaundry.It’svery have cosyslopingceilings.There isasim- rooms, whiletheprivate roomsupstairs The dormitoriesare high-ceilinged class- feel, buthasplentyof originalcharacter. dour hasaslightly barracks, itinevitably once aRussianprimaryschool andlater a and terrace openduringtheday. ships fromitsopenterrace. Italsohasabar offersSusisaari viewsof passingpassenger Itslocationonthesouthwest sideofvised. gourmet restaurant andbookingsare ad- other goodchoice. busy terrace insummer. café inanoldstone storehouse. There’s a isapleasant Near thedrydock onSusisaari Sat, noon-6pmSun,closedMon&Tue Jan-Mar) buffet lunch€11.50; Hostel day. that’sopenevery 6pm Sat,noon-9pmSun) Café Chapman Café Walhalla There are goodcafésandacou- several Pizza Nikolai Near Café Chapman, Café Piper is an- Chapman,Café Near Café Suomenlinna Panimoravintola supermarket

( %

(pizzas €8-10; 668 552;mains€26-30;

( % h 668 692;mains€6-12;

bytheSuomenlinna 3-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm3-10pm Mon-Fri, ( h Thisistheisland’s NextdoortoWal- www.lonelyplanet.com 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am- 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, h noon-8pm Sun-Thu,

( % h Further 228 5030; 6pm-mid- h lunch

the ferries. acrossonland, buttheycanbebrought onlineatwww.jt-line.fi.tables isat8.30pm.Checkcurrent time- service 12.15am, exceptforSunday,whenthelast the lastdeparture isfromSuomenlinna at parture isfromthekauppatoriat8amand minutes, mid-May toAugust).Thefirst de- the Walhallarestaurant (return €5.50,30 the kauppatoritoKing’sGate near Sep) tie 10;adult/child €17/13; technology industriesof itsown. growing partsof Finlandandhasimportant side mansions.Espooisoneof thefastest- including Westend, withitsexclusive water- out, withthree centres andmanysuburbs, green spaceandisvery large andspread- It’s apeacefulplacewithlotsof water and sinki, where much of itspopulationworks. Finland, itisinreality apartof greater Hel- ranksasthesecond-largestit officially cityin municipality justwestof Helsinki andwhile Espoo (Swedish: Esbo) isanindependent % ESPOO www.lonelyplanet.com Kallela Museum Kallela in Espoois sight The mostimportant Sights &Activities May) 10am-4pmTue-Sat, 10am-5pmSunSep–mid- May–Aug, 27;admission€8; Gallen-Kallelantie planning. its dayasamasterpiece of Finnishcity a modernshopping centre, washailedin ren’s chapel. Pietiläs’ student building andHeikki Si- Aalto’s mainbuilding andlibrary,thesee perience atany timeof the year,especially that will suit young and old.It’s agreat ex- of pools, Jacuzzis, water-slides and facilities should visit day only). walk 2kmortake bus33(MondaytoFri- central Helsinki toMunkkiniemi,then ofa museum hiswork.Take tram4from ing wasdesignedbytheartistand isnow Finnish painters. TheArtNouveau build- Gallen-Kallela, oneof themostnotable There’s nowhere tohire bikes ontheis- JT-Lines runsanhourlywaterbus from The Every architecturally mindedperson isoneof Europe’sbest, withacavalcade 09 /pop227,472 , thepastiche studio-castleof Aleksi Serena Water Park Water Serena Otaniemi University Otaniemi Tapiola

( % 541 3388; www.gallen-kallela.fi; 541 3388;www.gallen-kallela.fi; h (Swedish:Hagalund), 11am-8pm, closed 2 weeks in 11am-8pm, closed 2weeksin

( % 8870 5555;Tornimäen- h 10am-6pm mid- campusto Gallen- €13.50/8.50. (without the theatre is and planetarium) theexhibitions only Tosee train station. tre nextto theTikkurila andplanetarium tic hands-on sciencecentre, IMAXthea- mid-Apr–Sep) 4790; & Fri, 10am-6pm Sat&Sun,10am-8pmThu) & Fri, adult/child €18/11.50; .heureka.fi; isalsohometo taa Helsinki-Vantaa international airport.Van- primarily of interest asthelocationof the a satellite ofthat isessentially Helsinki, is Vantaa, alarge spread-out residential town % VANTAA also hasitsownbussystem. includingcentralEspoo.stations, Espoo from Helsinki atseveral willdropyouoff the busterminal inHelsinki. Localtrains Espoo fromthededicated Espoowing in tovariousparts ofYou cancatch buses &Away There Getting walkingtrails. and ponds,several of Finnishforest, withamultitudeof lakes totown, it’satypicalslice soclose Although visit won’ttake youbeyondtheHelsinki area. experience abitof Finnishwildernessifyour national parkisanexcellentopportunityto In thenorthwestdistrictof Espoo,thissmall NUUKSIO NATIONAL PARK ski centre here inwinter. are extraattractionsoutdoors. There’s alsoa during thecoldwinters, butinsummerthere and nocturnalflyingsquirrels. toelk your strolls;theparkisalsoahabitat woodpeckers orblack-throated divers on also several free campingsites.also several derness cabins(€9)inthepark.There are Helsinki youcanbookoneof thetwowil- main nationalparksinformationcentre in exhibition inanothercabin.Here oratthe naturetrance totheparkandanunstaffed regular excursions outthere insummer. in themainHelsinki alsoruns touristoffice, the Haukkalampi centre. Helsinki Expert, Espoo Centre. Itdropsyou about2kmfrom held inlate April,istop-notch. You may see rareYou maysee ospreys, grey-headed Espoo’s annual There’s an To get toNuuksio,catch bus85from 09 /pop185,429 h 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat&Sun 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, atthemainHaukkalampi en- AROUND HELSINKI••Espoo information centre Jazz Festival Heureka Heureka h 10am-5pm Mon-Wed

( % ( %

, afantas- ( 85799; www % 8165 7234) 020-564 87

, HELSINKI HELSINKI Sep) h to the north; see to thenorth;see p83 . Helsinki between andVantaa,service 19km land’s bigger rockfestivals. Ankkarock (www.ankkarock.fi),oneof Fin- .ainola.fi; adult/child€5/1; s €20, 4-personr €45, cabins€25-50; Ståhlhanentie; tentsites €10-18, www.matkailukeskus.com; 2; s/d €103/130, weekends &summer€72/90; 2; s/d€103/130,weekends hislakesidetrail through garden. mantic studioof Halonen, withawalking Karelian-inspired, log-built NationalRo- is A major road’ stopalongthe‘museum the painter Pekka Halonen, worked here. Prize–winning novelist FESillanpääand 20th century.Sibelius,aswelltheNobel ing theNationalRomanticeraof theearly region attracted anumberof artistsdur- 30-minute drive northof Helsinki. The abouta (TuusulaLake), Tuusulanjärvi Hotelli Krapi Hotelli Sleeping &Eating .tuusulanrantatie.com) The % TUUSULAN RANTATIE 88 and standards areand standards excellent. to steam Service upin atraditionalsauna. furnishings, three restaurants andachance coloursern rooms,with bright andpine 30km northof Helsinki. Ithasgreat mod- Roadsouthofsula Lake Halosenniemi and a hotel here since1883.Itsits ontheTuu- in whatwasonce acowshed; there’s been name. It’sanexcellent independenthotel live upto its Thankfully thisplacedoesn’t the traveller. restaurants andcafésbutlittletoattract centre withnumerous is amodernservice wife Ainoare inthegarden. family. Thegraves of Jean Sibeliusandhis books andapianoownedbythe Sibelius originalfurniture,1904, contains paintings, and builtonthisbeautifulforested site in Sonck The familyhome,designedbyLars is anotherpopularstopwithtourgroups. There isfrequent localtrainandbus In earlyAugust,Vantaa isthevenue for Sibelius’ home Järvenpään Matkailukeskus Järvenpään The main town in the area, Järvenpää, The maintowninthearea, Järvenpää, AROUNDHELSINKI••Tuusulan Rantatie Halosenniemi 09 iseastof and the lake nearJärvenpää 11am-5pm Tue-Sun, 11am-7pmMay-Aug) Tuusulan Rantatie

( %

( 274 841; www.krapi.info; Rantatie 274 841;www.krapi.info;Rantatie isanarrowroadalong % Ainola 8718 3461;admission€5.50; h

(Tuusula Lake Rd;www Lake (Tuusula 10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-

( pn %

( % 287 322;www ) 7425 5200; Acamp pn , the )

office. There’s alsoaterminalatthetourist which canbebooked. 10am-5pmSat)Hasfree Internetterminals, 8pm Mon-Fri, informative andfree Jun)Plentyofgoodinformationincludingthe Sep-early 10am-2pm Sat early Jun-Aug,9.30am-4.30pmMon-Fri, 4; makatu the streets east of the cathedral; Itäinen ofa glimpse lesstouristed bits,head for main roads, Välikatuand Kirkkokatu.For boutiques andantique shops line the coloured Craftbrightly wooden houses. of narrow, Great Fire of 1760.It’sanalluringwarren nerheiminkatu was largely builtafter the The OldTown district northof Man- OLDTOWN PORVOO Sights office Tourist Public library hasforeignBank exchange andanATM. North of themarket square, Osuuspankki Information sun. the setting The oldpainted buildingsare in spectacular you’llhavenight, itmore orlesstoyourself. are bustlingwithvisitors; the ifyoucanstay in Finland.Duringtheday,itscraftshops isoneoffront setting, themostpicturesque cobbledstreets and river-wooden houses, clusteredI. TheOldTown,withitstightly sian styleundertheruleof Tsar Nicholas 19th-century Empire quarter, builtRus- city: theOldTown,newtownand tradingcentre. wasanimportant Porvoo before atownsince1346,buteven been that ithas town inFinlandafter Turku.Officially 50km eastof Helsinki, isthesecond-oldest from Helsinki, (Swedish: Porvoo Borgå), An enduringlypopulardayorovernight trip % PORVOO there bybicycle. from pää orabustoHyryläandproceed sinki. Take alocaltraintoKerava orJärven- isabout40kmnorthof Hel-Tuusulanjärvi &Away There Getting cabin accommodation. withgood-value HI-hostelJärvenpää and site inagreat lakeside location2.5kmfrom There are threetothe distinctsections 019 /pop46,793 h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat & Sun 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, winding cobblestone alleysand ( ( % % Porvoo 520 2316; www.porvoo.fi; Rihka- 520 2316;www.porvoo.fi; 520 2417; Papinkatu 20; 520 2417;Papinkatu booklet. www.lonelyplanet.com h 10am- Oct-Apr) 10am-2pmTue-Sat, 2-4pmSun Sat, 2-5pmSunMay-Sep, by , most two of Porvoo’s paintings by Albert Edelfelt andsculptures two isthe Hall Square. Themore interesting of the ings on the beautifulcobbled OldTown www.lonelyplanet.com (cathedral; residential real estate. prime butmanyare nowPorvoo’s League, ships fromtheHanseaticwith German were tostore originallyused goodstraded Gustavus III,inthelate 18thcentury.They to impress thevisitingKingof Sweden, voonjoki were first painted withred ochre tinctive rowof Pitkäkatu isoneof thenicest.Thedis- 4pm Wed-SunSep-Apr) h combinedadmissionadult/child€5/1; Raatihuoneentori; giving Finlandreligious freedom. in 1809,convened byTsar AlexanderI,thus where thefirst Dietof Finlandassembled placeinFinnish history:thisis important 1 3 2 PORVOO Ὀ Ὀ The striking stone medieval The strikingstonemedieval The 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun May-Aug, noon- 10am-4pm Mon-Sat,11am-4pm SunMay-Aug, Station Train Runeberg House...... Porvoo HistoricalMuseum...... Edelfelt-Vallgren Gallery...... Doll &ToyMuseum...... Tourist office...... Post office...... Osuuspankki Bank...... Porvoon Retkeilymaja...... Hotelli Sparre...... Hotelli Onni...... Gasthaus Werneri...... Collection...... Tuomiokirkko (cathedral)...... Swimming Hall...... ulclbay...... C1 Public library...... Walter RunebergSculpture SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION SLEEPING dominates theOldTownandhasan

Mannerheiminkatu Maari Porvoo Museum Porvoo %

Porvoonjoki AC 66111; Edelfelt-Vallgren Museum Edelfelt-Vallgren shore houses shore h To Linnamäki Kankurinkuja Lohja (38km) Houses Porvoo Hill (200m); isintwoadjacent build- Shore

10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sillanm

15 14 13 12 11 10

Jokikatu äki 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

(

% C3 B2 B1 B2 B2 C2 C2 D3 B2 B1 D2 C3 B1 D3 Välikatu 5 Square

Town

alongthePor- 7 Kirkkotori

18 (48km) To Helsinki Train Stop Tourist

574 7500;Vanha 10 Kokonniementie 24 Tuomiokirkko 21

17

19 6 22 Vuorikatu B OLD TOWN Rihkamakatu 13 Ὀ 16 Kokonniemi (2km)

, with 4

Market Kirkkokatu

25

To Camping Jokikatu City Itäinen Pitkäkatu

Mannerheiminkatu

Lundinkatu Runeberginkatu 14

27 Rauhankatu 20 Kaivokatu 8 Sun Jun&Jul) sion €2; period asthisbookwenttopress. forrestorationIt wasduetoclose fora has oldfurniture andotherparaphernalia. the townhallbuildingacross square, famous artists. His former homeisa (OurCountry). Land Maamme-Laulu/Vårt the lyrics totheFinnis Johan Ludvig National poet Runeberg wrote RUNEBERG HOUSE and English, andcost€6. tours lastonehour, are in Finnish,Swedish fromMonday toFridayat2pm.All seum Mu- August, tours leave fromthePorvoo harbour. Inaddition,fromlate June tolate leaving fromthepassenger mid-September, voo at2pmonSaturdaysfromearly May to in Finland. toys andisthelargest of museum itskind Aleksanterinkatu 3; admission €5; Aleksanterinkatu Sat, 11am-5pm Sun May-Aug, closedMon &TueSat, 11am-5pm Sun May-Aug, Sep-Apr) Raatihuoneenkatu Papinkatu Kauppatori/

23 Torget Rauhankatu Doll &ToyMuseum There are Törmäkatu 26 11 Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

Lukiokatu

2

Linnankoskenkatu Piispankatu Hall City h Aleksanterinkatu 1 400m 0.2miles 0 0 11am-3.30pm Mon-Thu &Sat,noon-3.30pm houses over houses 800dollsandother AROUND HELSINKI •• Porvoo AROUND HELSINKI••Porvoo guided walking tours guided walking 3

Laivurinkatu Porvoo Historical Museum Historical Porvoo Passenger Harbour...... Bus Station...... Poorvoon Paahtimo...... Giggling Marlin...... Café Helmi...... Café Fanny...... Café Cabriole...... Wanha Laamanni...... Timbaali...... Hanna Maria...... Glückauf...... atkhia...... B3 Rantakahvila...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING

( %

Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Linnankoskenkatu Vänrikinkatu 582 941; Jokikatu 14;admis- 582 941;Jokikatu h national anthem, museum

h Adlercreutzinkatu 10am-4pm Mon- 9 of OldPor- D

( % 15

12 Nordensklödinkatu

581 330; Tulliportinkatu To 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 (70km) , in B3 C2 B2 C2 B2 B1 C2 B1 B2 B2 B2 89

, HELSINKI HELSINKI riant flairandstyle. rooms are beautifullydecorated withluxu- the street withanelegantterraced café.The back from old town,awoodenbuildingset opposite thecathedralinheartof the It’ssituated mostdelightful. right Porvoo’s rooms, thisboutiqueaccommodation is pn 1-3;dm/s/d€15/28/36; voohostel.cjb.net; Linnankoskenkatu in the basement arein the basement spacious but alittle room andaccess to kitchens. The rooms offers avarietyof rooms withshared bath- isrunbyacheerful Finnand guesthouse h 29;s/d€35/50; Adlercreutzinkatu [email protected]; options aroundtown. can recommend acoupleof one-room-only As wellasthechoices here, thetouristoffice people visitonday-tripsfromthecapital. most ity accommodation,perhaps because onqual- isalittlelight Surprisingly, Porvoo Sleeping boatcruises. Porvoo at islandsenroute. four hours) andoffer thechance tostopoff noon fromlate JunetoearlyAugust(€12, day, Thursday, SaturdayandSundayat M/S aboardM/S archipelago cruises Ifyouhavetorical commentary. more time, Tuesday toSunday)andincludessomehis- harbour (€6,onthehour,11amto4pm, The M/S CRUISES tion it was.The as preserved with aninterior thathasbeen 90 is goodforentrytobothmuseums. Opening hours are andadmission thesame , JLRuneberg’s eldestson. sauna complex oversauna theroad. summer. There’s agreat indoorpooland 11pm –butit’spopular sobookaheadin (check-out time)and 4pm,andcurfew is 10am old school between –thedoors close garden andawellequippedkitchen. It’s abit withspotlessrooms, a grassy wooden house east of Mannerheiminkatu isinalovely old .fi; Kirkkotori 3;s/d€104/124; .fi; Kirkkotori Porvoon Retkeilymaja Porvoon Hotelli Onni Hotelli See opposite of fordetails Helsinki– Gasthaus Werneri Gasthaus AROUNDHELSINKI••Porvoo reception 10am-10pm;

(Aleksanterinkatu 5) (Aleksanterinkatu Fredrika ) This HI-affiliated hostel ThisHI-affiliated 800m south- Borgå Walter Runeberg Sculpture Collec- Sculpture Runeberg Walter departonTuesday,Wednes-

departs from the passenger departsfromthepassenger ( %

050-525 6446;www.hotelonni has150sculptures by ( % pn

n ( 0400 494876;gasthaus % ) Withjustfour 523 0012;www.por ) Thiscentral Sandra and ispankatu 34;s/d€75/85,Sat,Sun&summer€70/80; ispankatu speciality, along with reindeer andFinnish and a terrace forsummer days. Game isa building with afireplace forwinter nights Porvoo. It’sinasplendid late-18th-century Chambers, thisisthegourmet restaurant of Timbaali Eating and asmallgrassygardenarea. apartmentsavailable are alsoself-contained upstairs aredark; those abetter bet.There not memorable. out inFinnish floralandare if comfortable andrestaurant.sauna Theroomsare done anda the mainstreet, withfriendlyservice This isacentral,well-kept hotel justoff €20-26; buffet insummer.buffet half adozen.There’s also agenerous lunch variety of waysandcost€10 to €12for ciality here issnails.They are doneina bience. Themenuis broadbutthespe- formal interior andperfect OldTownam- rustic placewithasummergarden, more playground facilities. plenty of greenery caféand andasauna, side of theriver, thisisagoodchoice with townonthewestern 2km southof Porvoo son cabins€65; itto.fi/kokonniemi; tentsites€11plus€4perperson,4-per- h Hotelli Sparre Hotelli Camping Kokonniemi Camping Wanha Laamanni rarely extended tooutbuildings. washouses, althoughthis‘extravagance’ yellow andbluepaintsfortheirwooden families beganusingexpensive white, and accessiblesolution.Later, wealthier for uptofiftyyears. Itwasaneconomical tected buildings fromtheextreme winters andpro- from ironandmineralextracts to becomepopular. This wasmixed athome in the18thcentury,red ochre paint began buildings inFinland were uncoloured, but ing yourfavourite colour. Originally, wooden going downtothehardware store andpick- but traditionallyitwasn’tjustamatter of travel inFinland andotherNordiccountries, woodenhousesare afeatureColourful of PAINTING THETOWNRED 11am-11pm, 11am-6pmSunSep-Apr) h

( 10.30am-10pm) % h 523 1020; Välikatu 8;mains€11-26; 523 1020;Välikatu

( Jun-Aug) %

( % 584 455;www.avainhotellit.fi;Pi- 523 0455; Vuorikatu 17;mains 523 0455;Vuorikatu

IntheOldJudges’ Acampingground ( www.lonelyplanet.com % 581 967;www.lomali Thisisa n )

May-Sep) Mon-Sat, 11am-6pmSun,longerhrinsummer) of the best is Rantakahvila (Beach Café), Café), of (Beach the bestisRantakahvila riverfront southof Mannerheimintie. One 4am Wed-Sat) sian-style high tea andfreshsian-style high pastries. of theTsars. Fittingly,itspecializes inRus- egant formalityof thiscaférecalls thetime 2.30pm. from11amto lunch (€6.80) served buffet or two. there’s Onweekdays, agood-value square isagoodspottoindulge inapastry building onthewestsideof themarket longer hrinsummer) CAFÉS Sun) 10, steaks€9-15; music atweekends insummer. steak withmushroomrisotto. There’s live options,such asJerusalemetarian artichoke fish dishes.There are alsoexcellentveg- www.lonelyplanet.com Porvoon Paahtimo Porvoon Drinking waterfront. particularly intheOldTownandon Quaint cafésare aspecialityof Porvoo, h spot ontheterrace. thejob,particularlyifyoucannaba does by nomeansgourmet,butitmore than Finnishfoodatcheap prices.It’s nonsense upno- cheerful lunchtime restaurant serves Porvoo driftby. Porvoo ful cobbledOldTownsquare, forwatching from €7to€13. eat ontheriverbank rath and there’s acheaper ‘terrace’ menu(ie,you boat restaurant. Itspecializesinseafood, on theeastern riverfront isthehomeof this great littleterrace hanging over thewater. able. There’s agoodrange of beers anda sandwichesandcakesbar although are avail- This placeatthe bridge isprimarilyacosy In summer,anumber of terraces linethe Café Cabriole Café Glückauf Café FannyCafé Giggling Marlin Cafe Helmi Cafe Hanna Maria 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Right intheoldtown,thischeap Right and A 19th-century sailing shipmoored A19th-centurysailing

Theliveliest of thenightclubs. ( %

( ( % %

54761; mains€13-25; Trythiscafé,onthebeauti- h (

% 582 855; Välikatu 13; 582 855;Välikatu

524 5165; Välikatu 7; 524 5165;Välikatu ( (Mannerheiminkatu 16; (Mannerheiminkatu ( % % 8am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pm 583 200; Välikatu 6;mains €5- 583 200;Välikatu 617 040; Mannerheiminkatu 2) 617 040;Mannerheiminkatu This large stylish old 523 2800; Piispankatu 30;523 2800;Piispankatu er thantheboat) h h h noon-11pm 10am-5pm, Theel- 10am-6pm h 10pm-

one way/return €12/20) onboard lunch costs€12. inPorvoo. Thetwo hours of sightseeing with aninteresting and archipelago cruise hours each way.Itcanbedoneasadaytrip three at3pm,taking returning fromPorvoo daily bewteen late Juneandmid-August, els fromtheHelsinki kauppatoriat10am ferry andtrainticket €29/12). train(adult/childvintage combined diesel by busor,onSaturdaysinsummer,the trip takes fourhours, youmaywanttoreturn and arrivinginHelsinki at7.25pm.Sincethe at4pm, day) at10amreturning fromPorvoo trip. Itleaves Helsinki daily(exceptThurs- voo insummerandmakes anexcellentday steamship, travels Helsinki between andPor- M/S The old diesel The olddiesel TRAIN (€25.40). (€12.70) andLappeenranta from townsfurthereast,including one hour)andthere are frequent to/ buses 30minutes every orso(€8.70, bus station fromtheHelsinki departforPorvoo Buses BUS 2950; www.royalline.fi;oneway/return €21/32) The BOAT &Away There Getting a strangely diverse crowd. with cheap drink,arange of fastfoodand other barpopularwithyounglocals. the eastsideof themarket square, isan- .fi; adultoneway/return €21/31,child€10/14) from Helsinki andfinal departure. to thevillage of arrival Hinthaara between Boat, above atripfromPorvoo ). Italsodoes on theMS with acruise Thetripcanalsobecombined train station. the mainbridge, about 1km pasttheold thetrainruns toafinalstopnear In Porvoo, oronboardthetrain. trainstation Porvoo hours; tickets purchase attheHelsinki or at4.30pmandtakes 1½ and fromPorvoo The traindepartsfromHelsinki at10.16am onSaturdaysinJulyandAugust. Porvoo An alternative isthemodern,speedy Glory Days,intheSeurahoviHotel on M/S JLRuneberg King , operated by AROUND HELSINKI •• Porvoo AROUND HELSINKI••Porvoo Porvoo Museum Train Museum Porvoo runs between Helsinki runsbetween and

( % 524 3331;www.msjlruneberg Royal Line JL Runeberg

( % , a former , aformer

( % . Ittrav- 752 3262; 09-612 (see (see

91 HELSINKI HELSINKI the above - ‘Do the right thing withourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursitefor a longerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. it easierforyoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 92 © LonelyPlanetPublications

www.lonelyplanet.com