01 cover.indd 1 51

www.thebmc.co.uk 6/8/08 14:21:43 Autumn 2008 UK £3.50 Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm

To reduce our environmental footprint, we use organic cotton, hemp, chlorine-free wool, recycled and recyclable fabrics in most of our products. And we give 1% of our sales to environmental organisations.

See our Autumn/Winter collection in one of our Pro-Shops:

Abingdon - Outdoor Traders 01235 527704

Ambleside - The Factor 01539 432 752

Aviemore - Cairngorm Mountain Sports 01479 810903

Stevenage - Countryside Ski & Climb 0800 353 086 or visit www.patagonia.com to see all other dealers nationwide.

Dan Foster picks his way up the Creighton Korman route in Smugglers’ Notch, Vermont Photo: John Burcham © 2008 Patagonia, Inc. the issue

Where does the BMC get its money from? Photo: Alex Messenger. A question of funding Just where does the BMC get its money from? one are the days when you could run too, but we’re not resting on our laurels. We’ve on medal-winning Olympic sports. an organisation like the BMC from a just completely overhauled the online travel Our current government funding comes Gdusty backroom with a single fi ling insurance application process and are about to from Sport England – their focus is different to cabinet. Representing a touch over 65,000 launch a revamped online shop. UK Sport – their aim is to make England more members and employing 25 full-time staff, the It’s the smallest slice of the pie chart that active by encouraging more people to get modern BMC burns through about £1.75m a causes the most confusion: most people think involved in sport. So right now we’re fi lling in year. Some of this goes towards running the that the BMC is plugged into some huge source lots of headache-inducing forms for the next offi ce. But most of it goes toward the activities of government cash, but sadly this isn’t true. four-year cycle of applying for some cash to put that people join us for: keeping crags open, However this does mean that compared to many towards clubs, volunteers, high performance and safety and equipment advice, lobbying other national sports bodies we’re actually in mountain training. important people to nip problems in the bud, a very good situation. The majority are heavily But who decides how the money is spent? liability insurance for members, running reliant on government support – up to 95% in In the case of any funding from Sport England, events, marketing, producing a website and some cases – to run their operations. This brings they decide – and funding is ring-fenced and Summit magazine to tell everyone about it. with it all the inherent insecurity and uncertainty of continuing targets must be met. And in the short-term funding commitments and the knock case of the other money, the membership cash, So where does this million-and-three-quarters on effects of personnel or policy changes within the insurance profi ts, then that’s decided by a actually come from? Well, the 2007 Annual government and its departments. Fortunately mindboggling process involving the National Accounts show that last year 59% of the income we’re largely immune to the sort of pressures Council, the Executive Committee and the needed to run the BMC came from membership faced by other bodies, and can concentrate on Finance Committee, directly infl uenced by subscriptions, 30% from trading activities simply representing climbers, hill walkers and priorities identifi ed at BMC Area Meetings. (including travel insurance), and a slim 11% from mountaineers. We’re in the process of producing the new four- Sports Council grants. We used to get some funding from UK year strategy for the BMC, the grandly named, The fi gures are healthy. Membership is growing Sport, their focus is on elite performance and ‘Strategic Plan 2009 – 2013’, and that will be – an 8.4% increase in the last year – probably Olympic sport; previously they supported available for comment on the website very soon. down to our new membership database starting elite performance in via the It’s your money – tell us what you’d like to see it to generate new marketing possibilities and the BMC expedition grants, and Mountain Leader spent on. ■ recent very successful Direct Debit offer. The Training at a UK level. But over the past three 30% of income from trading activities (including years they’ve completely turned their back on What should BMC funding priorities be? Let the online shop and various events) is on track and mountaineering to concentrate us know – email [email protected].

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 3

03 the issue.indd 3 7/8/08 09:31:22 WELCOME TO... ISSUE 51 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests

contents of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to:

» Negotiate access improvements and promote cliff and mountain conservation. » Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment. » Support events and specialist programmes including youth and excellence. » Provide services and information for members.

BMC 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB Tel: 0161 445 6111 Fax: 0161 445 4500 offi [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk

President: Charles Clarke Chief Executive: Dave Turnbull Summit Editor: Alex Messenger [email protected]

EDITORIAL Contributions should be sent to the editor at the above address. Every care is taken of materials sent for publication, however these are submitted at the sender’s risk. The views expressed within are of the contributors, and not necessarily the BMC.

PUBLISHING Group Ad Manager: Emma Howl 01778 392443 [email protected]

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Neither the BMC nor Warners Group Publications plc accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers are advised to take reasonable care when responding to adverts.

RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Readers of Summit are reminded that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

4 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

04-05 contents.indd 4 6/8/08 14:23:04 Features Birds and the bees foreword 16 That’s me We knock on the door of he birds and the bees are hot topics right now. The Lancastrian boulderer Sunday Times ran a story about Himalayan honey Naomi Buys. Tbees operating at 8,000 metres – off route maybe. And at home there’s trouble with the peregrines, Natural 18 Art of climbing England and The Roaches. John Redhead: shaman or sexually obsessed? Like many people with a total of many years – my wife Ruth says it’s been most of our marriage – spent walking and 20 climbing in the hills, my memories of mountain fl ora and fauna are among the most enduring recollections that I have. The exclusive Summit I can vividly remember so much: lammergeyers, foxes interview – by Niall Grimes. and hares in the Rongbuk valley; picas, the little tail-less rodents above 6,000 metres at Chomolungma advanced 28 Northern base ; choughs above 7,000 metres; blue poppies; Susie Allison hunts sun and valleys of fl owers; rhododendrons; the extraordinary harvest seals in the frozen north. of the caterpillar fungus; glimpses of bears; musk deer; ibex; bharal; blue sheep; Tibetan asses; a pine martin; golden 34 Swiss valais eagles and the swallowtail butterfl y. Like most climbers, I Your ideal alpine walking cherish the natural world. quick-fi x. It therefore came as a surprise that Natural England had decided to ban all climbing on a wide area on the Roaches – to protect a pair of peregrine falcons who were nesting 36 Dream of on the upper tier. Let’s get it straight, the BMC is all for white horses protecting nesting birds, and liaises closely with the RSPB Creating the classic - by Ed all over the UK. And by and large, climbers respect nesting Drummond. restrictions such as those on Lundy and South Stack. But to include banning at the bottom of the 42 Aiming high Roaches seems to me an excessive piece of bureaucracy. The brand new National I gather the RSPB is on our side about this piece of over Indoor Climbing reaction – let’s hope that the bureaucrats see sense. Achievement Scheme. Meanwhile, I’m sure we all wish Mr and Mrs Peregrine and family well, and good hunting when the children grow up!

45 A right raquette Have a great autumn. Get your on this winter and bag a summit.

48 Carbon copy We put climbing without a car to the test – is it possible? Charles Clarke 53 A bridge too far BMC President Save your energy with Adrian Berry. Regulars 3 The issue 6 News ON THE COVER: Chris Sharma working his epic deep 10 Access news 12 Letters water solo, Es Pontas, in Mallorca. He attempted the 14 Stuff 51 Wales climb 80 times before success - to produce the hardest 56 Plas y Brenin deep water solo in the world. 58 Area noticeboard Photo: Corey Rich/Aurora Photos. 59 On the ground 60 Competitions ‘08 61 Events THIS PAGE: Holly Rees eyes up her next hold at the BMC 62 Hill skills 64 Climb skills British Bouldering Championships, Cliffhanger. 66 Tech skills 74 Last thoughts Photo Alex Messenger.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 5

04-05 contents.indd 5 8/8/08 10:10:48 news News Get all the latest essential news at www.thebmc.co.uk/news Click and go Big guns head BMC insurance gets even better with new website to Kendal

If you’re serious about your fun, See and then it pays to be serious about at your choice of travel insurance too. Kendal Film Festival

Leading climbers and mountaineers Beers: another feature of Kendal. rely on BMC insurance to give them Photo: KFF. the cover they need, and whether you’re in , trekking in the Himalaya, climbing , skiing in or even climbing Everest, then we’ve got a policy to suit. And best of all, by purchasing BMC insurance you’re not only guaranteed the best insurance cover around, but also help to fund our vital work as the national representative body for climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers We constantly strive to improve our insurance, and this year has seen some fantastic improvements: • 10% reduction on all annual premiums Kendal film festival (20th-23rd November) is the • All other premiums held or reduced premier social event for outdoor enthusiasts in the UK. • Save 50% with our new rates for 65-69 year olds At the heart of the programme is the mountain film • Up to 5% discount for online purchases competition, attracting film premieres from around the Take advantage of our Direct Debit membership scheme and save even further! world, with ten coveted prizes up for grabs. There’s And now, we’ve completely redesigned our insurance website to make it even easier also the Art and Book Festivals, the Boardman Tasker for you to take out cover. literary award plus the Adventure Film Academy for aspiring film-makers. And alongside all this is Visit it today at www.thebmc.co.uk/insurance a packed timetable of lectures, slideshows and presentations, including these four heavyweights: Reinhold Messner. Often cited as the greatest Get shopping mountaineer of all time, Messner was the first to summit Everest without oxygen and then first to repeat with the BMC the feat solo. He was first to climb all the world’s fourteen 8,000m peaks, and pioneered alpine-style We’re also about to launch a brand new mountaineering in the . This is a very rare online shop. This will feature all the twiddly opportunity to hear one of the true greats in the bits you’d expect in a modern online mountaineering world speak, shop, including video clips, pdf previews Catherine Destivelle. Well known to UK audiences of books, and of course, great savings for from the TV film Seo, with its amazing climbing BMC members. sequences on cliffs in Mali, Catherine is also a hugely accomplished alpinist. Look out for an exclusive offer code in the . Climber, author and filmmaker. In next issue of Summit 1985 he was the first American to reach the summit of Everest twice and went on to Dick Bass on the first ascent of the . Breashears was Recycle and support the BMC on Everest during the 1996 disaster and was made Since the start of the recycling scheme for inkjets we’ve raised £1,317 for the BMC Access famous by Jon Krakauer’s book ‘Into Thin Air’. and Conservation Trust (ACT). And now we’re just got £2,379 from the mobile phone Steph Davis. Recognised as one of the world’s appeal. A huge thank you to everyone who has taken part. Please keep up the good work premier adventure climbers, Steph is one of the few by sending your empty cartridges and mobile phones to EAH Recycling – every cartridge women to have free-climbed . She is also and mobile phone is much appreciated as the BMC receives a generous donation for each the first woman to climb all seven named summits one.We’re also doing our bit in the office – we managed to recycle an impressive 95% of a in the Fitzroy . She has also recently taken up recent 348Kg of computer and electronic waste. BASE jumping...

For extra envelopes call EAH Recycling on 01473 658161 See www.mountainfilm.co.uk for full details

6 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk/news

06-08 news.indd 6 8/8/08 10:12:42 06-08 news.indd 7 Contact [email protected]findoutmore Lodge, andbeacurrent BMC/MCofSorMCImember. may havelittleornowinterclimbingexperience,soit’ that Scotlandcanthrow atyou.Someoftheguests navigation skillsandtheabilitytocopesafelywithall competent winterclimber/mountaineerwithsound However, youdoneedtobeanexperiencedand don’t needtobeatop-endclimbercomealong. to makefriendsfrom around theworld,andyou final-night party. every day climbing. There willbeapackedschedule:climbing – tobeshowntheperversedelightsofScottishwinter be converging onGlenmore LodgeintheCairngorms March, overfifty climbersfrom around theworldwill Winter Meet2009.From 22ndFebruarytoSunday1st need toapplyforaplaceontheBMCInternational climbing toguestsfrom around theworld?Thenyou ? Want thechancetointroduce Scottish Got agoodknowledgeoftheScottishwinter Sign upfor theBMCInternational Winter Meet2009 Warm winterwelcome wanted www.thebmc.co.uk/news Mountain FilmFestivalthisNovember. Slackjaw, itwillbelaunchedattheKendal working atPlasyBrenin. Pr Chester andRobSpencer–bothGuides this, thefilmiswrittenanddirected byMartin Shot onlocationintheAustrianAlpsearlier glaciated terrainanddealingwithemergencies. and equipment,slopeassessment,skiingin a multi-dayskitour. Italsocoversclothing potential ofaski-resort before undertaking skiers inAustriaastheyexplore theoff-piste mountaineering. Thefilmfollowsagroup of DVD foroff-piste skiing,ski-touringandski- up toproduce ‘Off PisteEssentials’–anew The BMCandPlasyBrenin haveteamed BMC andPlasyBrenin DVD Head off-piste withanew Don’t get piste off The costisjust£85forallaccommodation,foodandtransport–youhavetogetyourselfGlenmor BMC International MeetsareBMC International agreat opportunity Ph Filming the new DVD. oto: Martin Chester. , presentations everyeveningandagreat oduced by s vitalthatyoufeelconfidentclimbingwithsuchpartners. acetr T Manchester Dates andvenues: photos. inspirational and tales exciting of heap a Plus climbing. and awareness avalanche planning, route footwork, navigation, clothing, and Find out more atwww.thebmc.co.uk/skillsFind outmore Lowe AlpineandAsolo Thu20th November Wed19th November by sponsored are The BMCWinterLectures Tue 18th November Leicester Mon17thNovember Oxford Wed 12thNovember(TBC) Londo Cambridge Newcastle BMC Winter Lectures Get your skills up to speed with the Get thewhiteidea Ph What could be more fun than this? oto: BMC. ue 11thNovember include equipment equipment include Topics mountains. winter the explore to required skills the of aware you make will Rob and Dave season, this aims your Whatever (MIC). Jarvis Rob and MIC) and Guide (Aspirant Hollinger Dave by presented be will Lectures Winter year’sBMC This e IN SHORT www.climber.co.uk. www.climber.co.uk. at Enter competition. photo magazine Climber the in gear Hardwear Mountain of worth £300 win to chance the on out miss Don’t competition Photo nation. active and fit a to contributing in plays sport our role current the and activities mountaineering British all of BMC, the of work the of recognition in held being is event October.The in Street Downing No.10 at Mountaineering’ British of ‘Celebration in BMC the for reception a hosting is Minister Prime The 10 No. to head BMC page 14. 14. page see – lassos tick free 100 away giving We’realso thebmc.co.uk/access. www. See bitten. are you if do to what and them avoid to how ticks, on advice giving leaflet new a funded has BMC The ti funds BMC consultation. public full a for calling website Assembly National the on e-petition an up set has Society the aircraft; light private for lease 125-year a on Harlech, near Llanbedr, at airfield military RAF the over take to want company A Park. National Snowdonia in airport commercial a of opening the stop to campaign a running is Society Snowdonia The airport Snowdonia to no Say ck leaflet ck Summit - Autumn 8/8/08 10:13:08 >> | 7 news 06-08 news.indd 8

news 8

| ww on the UIAA Council. the new BMC representative Scott has now taken over as his UIAA involvement. Doug b The BMC would like to say a Ma Thanks to £ its annual grant from £1500 to Estcourt Award will increase announced that the Nick has Nick Estcourt Award the BMC. together to discuss clubs and group of representatives – designed to bring a small meeting of a six-month trial Group recently had the first The new Clubs Working Clubs working group on our involvement. some reassuring comments about the BMC and offered interested to learn more the coast. The Minister was we already operate around good management practices in the Bill and reiterated the the outline scheme presented expressed our support for in the Draft Marine Bill. We coastal access provisions Rural Affairs to discuss the the Environment, Food and Jonathan Shaw, Minister for In June the BMC met with Coast looks clear next issue. an exclusiveoffer inthe Ingleborough. Lookoutfor Penyghent, Wher the popularthree peaksof (North-South) andincludes Kirkby StephentoSettle to Reeth(East-West) and the area from Sedbergh Yorkshir walkers andclimbers,the Designed especiallyfor Map isalmostprinted. The nextBritishMountain Da New Yorkshire IN SHORT Summit- Autumn 2000 from 2009. See ig thanks to Mark Valance for w.nickestcourtaward.org. les map rk Vallance e Dalesmapcovers nside and word of thanks is due to all those who forewent theirclimbing own pointenjoyment of view to helpit’s bring hardly about possible this happy to conceiveoutcome.” a more inconvenient place for the birds climbingto nest, crags.so a very special the meantime we’re pursuing a partnership projectreach of creating a sensible more agreement appealing if nest the sitesperegrines away from return;by the users inmore and popular local experts. Hopefully we’ll be ableconsider to to be reasonable, evidence based and negotiatedof endorsing and actively promoting restrictions Englandthat we is planned. The BMC has a long track recordnext year, a meeting with National Park and Natural the restricted area too large. people was that the reaction was out of proportion, and successfully fledged, but the feeling amongst many RSPB. Climbers were clearly pleased that the chicks discussions with the Peak Park, Natural England and the a difficult process, involving multiple site meetings and visitors. Agreeing the extent of the restricted area proved crags, thanks to the co-operation of climbers and Roaches, on one of the country’s most popular climbing Peregrine falcons have bred successfully at the First peregrine falcon chicks for 100 years at the Roaches Peregrine parents pullitoff during which John Mann raised a question related to the BMC and coastalcoastal accessaccess. provisions. hearings on the Marine Bill, madecommittee up of MPs (which and Peers,is currently were also takingthrough attended evidence Parliament, where on oralthe and coastalevidence met with access was the given provisionsClerk on ofthe the within Environment, the Marine Foodsupport Bill). and from RuralTwo Sport Affairscommittee England. Committee The sport Ministerwho overseesin thewas UK, verythis stressed supportive, the statureand the BMCof Britishhopes to climbing meet him at again an wasinternational soon. also invited level to theand BMCexplained 2009requirement Annual its potential Dinner for at –liaison Plasgiven y greaterofficers,Brenin. and the issue of rubbish left Conservationin the high mountainsOfficer) representedwere all discussed.central the BMC government, atThe a Ambassadorprogramme MPs, DEFRA of meetings andIn NaturalJune, set the upEngland. byBMC John infiltrated Dave Mann Turnbull MP. the House (BMC of CEO)CommonsBMC steps insideparliament and to lobby where itcounts raisingCath Flitcroft the profile (BMC of Access the BMC and and mountaineering amongstBMC inthehouse Long-running quarry caseto go to Court of Appeal Backdale battle continues that shouldbehear hadacase Communities andLocalGovernment national parkauthorityandtheDepartment for in LondondecidedlateJulythat boththe on LongstoneEdge,nearBakewell. Judges Court decisionoverallegedharmfulquarrying been grantedpermissiontoappealagainstaHigh The PeakDistrictNationalParkAuthorityhas Local BMC Access Rep Henry Folkard said: “We’re very pleased the young have been successfully reared. From the With the possibility that a similar situation could occur Team BMC also attended Prime Minister’s question time in the Commons and a further session the following day We also improved our knowledge of how best to make representations and give formal evidence whenNext Bills up was are a meetinggoing with the Sports Minister, Gerry Sutcliffe. Here Dave and Cath explained Thethe firststructure of these of wasthe a meeting with the Nepalese Ambassador where the new permit system for climbing peaks, the d bytheCourtofAppeal. Photo: BMC. 4 at the Roaches. interviewed for Radio Cath Flitcroft (R) get Andi Turner (L) and here to be enjoyed – not destroyed.” of Longstone Edge is lost for ever. National Parksremember are that with each passing day, more and morewelcome an early decision in the Court of Appeal, BMC Access Officer Guy Keating said: “Whilst we in a long series of legal contests over the site, –and possibly before the end of this year. This is the latest They also agreed the case should be heard quickly www . .thebmc .co.uk/news 8/8/08 10:15:09 Black Excalibur SM02 july08:Nutrifaster A4 leaflet 16/7/08 16:31 Page 1

Gary Rolfe, arctic explorer, dog musher and endurance athlete, lives in Greenland with his 12 dogs where fresh food isn’t always available. He says:

“For so long lightweight nutrition meant living off junk sold as “expedition food”. With an Excalibur Dehydrator I pack top notch nutrition-rich

Credit: www.garyrolfe.com foods I’d always considered to be impracticable luxuries, like plump fresh fruit and vegetables”.

Gary with two of this year’s pups, six-week old Bigness and Gus The Excalibur Dehydrator Concentrated Food Power - Whenever you need it

• Prepare and dehydrate your own lightweight expedition food • Gentle drying preserves nutrition and concentrates flavour giving a superior, natural alternative to pre-packaged trail food • Perfect for dehydrating your own delicious energy-rich trail snacks, cereal bars, vegetable crisps, meat jerkies, fruits and fruit leathers, soups, casseroles and more • Ideal for mountaineering clubs, major expeditions, adventure centres, outdoor enthusiasts and expedition outfitters

Summit Reader Offer! Get a 10% discount and a free copy of Gourmet - just enter the promotional code SM02 when ordering online at www.ukjuicers.com Order online or call 01904 757070 access AccessNews

The BMC has a team of two full-time Access Offi cers and a nationwide network of 40 volunteer Local Access Representatives - all working hard for climbers and hill walkers.

North West North East Yorkshire Craig y Longridge Back Bowden Doors Foredale Quarry As a way of saying thanks to everyone who contributed towards the A project to fell a number of trees at the Following a successful trial period, cost of acquiring this crag, we recently had a social shindig at the crag crag should be underway soon. The effort access is still allowed at this popular followed by refreshments in a local hostelry. A good time was had by all. is being coordinated by Northumbria Yorkshire limestone sport venue. However, We plan to complete the site work soon – with fencing and reseeding of Mountaineering Club and there may be the landowner (who lives nearby) the ground. a call for volunteers – keep an eye on the remains concerned about climbers on his BMC website. land – especially those with dogs. One Lakes more incident – however minor – and climbing will be banned for good. Nesting restrictions Thanks to all who contributed towards Please adhere to the following: conservation by respecting the nesting Park at the foot of the hill at the end of the restrictions. Once again there were no quarry road, and walk past the farm quietly. reported problems and early reports Leave the metalled track halfway between suggest a successful year for the birdies. the bend and the cottages. Walk up the grassy ridge to the right of the fence – see the BMC signs. No camping, no dogs and Wales no fi res. Clwyd limestone Holmfi rth Edge The Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) Many thanks to Kirklees Council for recently expressed some concern at bolting removing the graffi ti and paint from activities in the Trevor area. The BMC, local Holmfi rth Cliff in West Yorkshire. A activists and CCW will be meeting soon clean-up project had been planned for to discuss. a while, and we were really impressed when Kirklees Council turned up Pembroke with a powerful steam-jet cleaning The nesting restrictions in South system and blasted the offending paint Pembrokeshire went well again. There into oblivion. were no reported problems, with breeding success from a number of rare species Widdop including chough. Thanks to Lynne Ferrand A quick tip for all Lancashire climbers of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park who dare to venture onto Yorkshire grit: Authority for the monitoring and lifting a the Widdop road from the M65/Brierfi eld/ number of restrictions early. Nelson area will be closed for repairs from mid-September for three months.

South West Peak District Avon The Roaches The new fence above Exploding Galaxy By the time you read this, the peregrine Wall is being damaged by setting belays chicks should have fl edged this prominent too close to the top of the fence: they create nest site. This nesting restriction caused leverage forces and loosen the stonework much debate in climbing circles and the bolts. Please only set belays at the base. BMC was not 100% happy with how the Cheddar Gorge restriction process was handled. However we remain committed to working with the The National Trust, Cheddar Caves & Peak National Park and Natural England in Gorge and site warden Martin Crocker the future. report a vibrant Cheddar scene, with Midlands many climbers enjoying the great mix of Turkey Dip Rocks trad challenges and sport routes. Thank to Forest Rock ‘No climbing’ signs recently appeared all for respecting the access arrangements The situation seems to have eased off at Forest at this steep bolted limestone crag on over the spring period; if you climb in the Rock, although no new bolts have been placed private land in the southern Peak. We’ve Gorge and ‘play by the rules’, you’re doing to cause problems. Please be aware that local been in contact with the landowners your bit to ensure that this summer access residents overlook Forest Rock so keep it clean and are hoping that the matter can be continues. and remove your rubbish. resolved soon. From 1st July to 7th September the restored routes on the South side of the Markfi eld Quarry Gorge (i.e. the Cheddar Caves & Gorge side) Signs have been erected in the quarry will be restricted. The fi rst bolts will also be stating ‘No Climbing or Absailing’ (sic), but temporarily removed from popular roadside don’t appear to have any impact on the Find out more crags and the approach to Sunset Buttress. climbing. The fence still remains in place, For full details on any crag, see the Regional Access Database on In the meantime, there are plenty of other although there have been a few reports of the BMC website. Don’t rely on your guidebook - it could be out routes available – see the BMC Cheddar people battling their way along the very of date. Access Calendar at: worthwhile Baptism (VS 4c) and doing www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=282. some cleaning en-route. www.thebmc.co.uk/rad

10 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk/access

10-11 access news .indd 10 6/8/08 14:25:02 10-11 accessnews .indd11 covered by theBMCBetterBoltscampaign. equipment includingbolts, pegsorlower-offs –thisis However itwon’t supportthecostofpurchasing fixed • BMC Area andClub ‘adopt-a-crag’ initiatives www.thebmc.co.uk/access A. project? Q. HowdoIgetinvolvedina A. Q. Canyougiveanexample? A. Q. Howwillfundingbeallocated? • Expert advice andsurvey work e.g. tree surgeons, • Equipment forwoodland andvegetation • Materials andequipmenttosupportground erosion • A. support? Q.What willtheCragCare Fund your project supported England and Wales. Here’s how to get will go towards area projects throughout and Bwlch y Moch. The other £5,000 Horseshoe Quarry, Craig y Longridge owned and managed crags – including will go towards essential works at BMC and Wales. Half of this initial funding and maintenance of crags in England new Crag Care Fund to support the care The BMC has just put £10,000 into a Wales and Your England in walking hill and to climbing guide website. the on details – rep access local your with touch in get Alternatively ([email protected]). 4383336 0161 on Kocsis Martin contact project, potential good a of know or area, your in projects with involved getting in interested are you If walking. hill and climbing of world the in difference positive a make to qualifications otherthanenthusiasmandawillingness levelling someareas ofground. and encroaching brambles from thehighbreaks and cleaning sectionsofrock, removal oflooseblocks tree from beneaththecentral sectionofthecrag, to keepoutunwanted intruders, removal ofalarge fitting anew fenceandgatewithcombinationpadlock co-ordinator andthelandowner. The work includes: by alocalaccessrep inconjunctionwiththe area approval at an area meeting. area access reps to decide whether applications require the relevant BMC area and it’s the responsibility of BMC affiliated clubs. All applications must have the support of • a numberofthingsincluding; practical work. So, theFundwillhelpcover thecostsof volunteer opportunities, withtheemphasisbeingon activities thatdirectly benefit thecrags, accessand Focus litter-picks Volunteer initiativessuchascrag clean-updays or ecological orbotanicalassessments management work control work andfootpathsaround thecrag Materials andequipmentforr Gettinginvolved issimple. You don’t needany A recent project proposal hasbeenputtogether Money will be available to BMC members, areas and The aimistofundimprovement works and On… ock repair work BMC Crag Care Fund A. money? Q. Whodecideshowtospendthe A. Access andConservationTrust? the CragCare Fundandthe Q. What’s thedifference between A. apply? Q. I’veaproject inmind,howdoI Mountaineering Council, theMountaineering Council ACT isacharitabletrust, established by theBritish needs ofclimbers, hillwalkers andmountaineers. and conservation projects thatsafeguard theaccess open countryside by facilitatinglarger-scale education promote sustainableaccesstocliffs, mountainsand the websiteandsenditintoMartinKocsis. support ofthearea, downloadanapplicationformfrom BMC CEO. Conservation &Environment Group (ACEG) andthe subject toagreement by theChairofBMC Access, point ofcontact. Applications forover £500willbe and theBMCoffice. MartinKocsis willbetheoffice between theapplicant(s), therelevant area official(s) Photo: Martin Kocsis. such as this crag clean-up at Hoghton Quarry, Lancashire. Your lead? The BMC Crag Care Fund will help fund projects The Access &Conservation Trust (ACT) aimsto Having spokentoyour localaccessrep andgotthe Applications of£500orlesswillbeagreed pr Objectives: ACT aimstosupportabroader range of efficient. ■ donations etcmuchmor Legal Status: ACT isacharitable Trust makinggift environment. on thesustainableuseandconservation oftheoutdoor landscape andr thr Geographical Coverage: ACT supportsprojects gr Scale: ACT willaimtosupportlarger projects with The key differences are: of ScotlandandtheMountaineeringCouncilIreland. access reps. The complete list of BMC local aspx?page=107 www.thebmc.co.uk/Pages. download an application form. more about the Crag Care Fund and Visit the BMC website to fi nd out www.thebmc.co.uk/cragcarefund More information eater fi ojects thantheCr oughout thewholeofBritishIsleswitha nancial contributions. egional focus. ag Care Fund. Projects willfocus e str aightforward andtax Summit - Autumn | 6/8/08 14:25:32 11

access Got an opinion? Then let us know! Email: [email protected] to get something off your chest. Write to us at: BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB letters Letters or have your say online at www.thebmc.co.uk/summit STAR LETTER Happy reader You’ve made my day! I’m the proud winner No reservations of the Alpine jacket from the spring I’ve just returned from Windgather. I’ve visited this crag many times over my 52 years of Summit competition. I’ll be going to Nepal climbing, so it was with some surprise that I found several routes ‘reserved’ for a Buxton- in October, hopefully to summit Mera Peak, based commercial organisation instructing a party of youngsters. Ropes were hanging down and the jacket will be so much lighter in my routes which they had used, or were intending to use, rather akin to the German habit of pack than the one I own now. I’ve raised reserving sun loungers with towels. Whilst I fully support the introduction of young people to over £5,000 for Scope so far and can’t wait the sport, I’ve some diffi culty in condoning route reservation, particularly as it just seems to to go. I’m all set up with BMC insurance relate to business practice rather than the real reasons that most of us climb. When I raised too and hope this will be the fi rst of many the subject with one of the instructors, his attitude was less than sympathetic. What do peaks. Thanks again. others feel about this? Julia Woods Dr David Price Get entering the competitions on the Stuff For making a stand for the personal climber, David Price wins the star letter. Let us know page and we could make your day too. if you come across any similar behaviour – and try and get the name of any organisations involved. – Guy Keating, BMC Access Team. Coaching cover Re the ‘Wolves at the door’ letter from issue 50: I suggest that anyone who has Helmet warning Unhappy reader a qualifi cation with some connection with Having recently purchased two of your I was wondering if there was a confl ict coaching looks at the Sports Coach UK guidebooks (Burbage, Millstone & Beyond of interest in Summit 50? You printed an website. One of the membership benefi ts is and Stanage) for our school library, I wanted article about the increased demands on a very good third-party cover and personal to express my disappointment at the lack of Mountain Rescue Teams alongside very accident policy, whether working for pay or helmet-wearing being promoted in the photos. prominent photos and advertisements voluntarily. Full membership has a range of As a school on the edge of the Peak District, – including the front cover, the inside other benefi ts for £73 – looks a pretty good several well-qualifi ed members of staff take front cover and the contents page – that deal to me. many of our students climbing. These staff featured climbers without helmets. John Pring always promote best practice and insist that Whilst it is the individual climbers our students wear helmets when climbing and decision whether they wear a helmet or Welsh thanks when they are at the foot of the crag. I’ve had not, surely Summit should be setting an I’d like to take the opportunity of thanking to put a large warning message on the front example? If the magazine wants to raise the BMC for its growing support for the cover of the books, warning of the lack of the issue of the increased pressure on Welsh language. It’s clear that a great deal helmets on display, and reminding students that a very valuable service, surely it should of effort is going into promoting mountain it is considered best practice to wear one. As be encouraging climbers to practice activities in Wales through the medium a keen outdoor person I feel rather ashamed of safe climbing to ensure that they don’t of Welsh, and I can tell you that it’s much this disregard for safety. become another statistic? appreciated. Dymuniadau gorau. Iain Johnson Alun Davies BMC guidebook photos are supplied voluntarily and usually refl ect the full range of personal Just like BMC guidebooks, Summit climbing (grades, ages, helmets etc). They’re not photos are all supplied voluntarily and we intended to be best-practice manuals for school try to refl ect the wide range of individual groups whose operating constraints are very climbing out there. Summit has also run different. Remember kids, climbing can kill you. some very graphic articles on head injuries – Niall Grimes, BMC Guidebooks. to help readers make up their own minds.

Win a Berghaus Arête 35 daysac worth £60 for your letter Let off steam with a letter to Summit and you could win a brand new Arête 35 daysac from Berghaus.

The Arete is a no-frills daypack designed for cragging denier ripstop polyester fabric, which combines an and walking. It features compression straps, two-point excellent balance of strength, wear resistance, soft haul loop, four gear loops, side compression strap, ice handling and low weight. axe/pole holders and two wand pockets. There’s a fusion back system and oversized zip pulls for easy use. The For further information visit www.berghaus.com or pack is made from Esdura 600RS, a midweight 600- call 0191 516 5700.

12 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk/summit

12 Letters.indd 12 7/8/08 09:37:13

Tick Alert TRIX Tick Lasso

stuff £6.99 Stuff Nothing spoils your day like discovering a tick embedded in your leg. Forget threatening it with a cigarette – for safe removal you need a Tick BMC Insurance - Up to 5% off online Alert TRIX Tick Lasso. Ticks pose a health risk If you’re heading off for an not only here in the UK as they carry Lyme autumn adventure, then disease, but also in popular adventure holiday don’t forget to take some destinations throughout 27 countries in Europe BMC insurance with you. where Tick Borne Encephalitis (TBE) is endemic. Get an instant quote and The Tick Lasso is made from a unique fi bre and up to 5% off with our can be activated instantly, just like a ballpoint pen, brand new online system, making it quick and simple to use. or simply call the offi ce on 0161 445 6111. All Buy online at www.misotrading.co.uk profi ts from the scheme go towards working for For further information and advice visit www.masta.com/tickalert climbers, hill walkers, and mountaineers. Get a free Tick Alert TRIX Tick Lasso We’ve got 100 free tick lassos to give away – the fi rst 100 people to send in their email address will get one of these handy extractors. Merrell Boots at Fitness Footwear £89.99 Put away those fl ip fl ops – summer is over. It’s time to dig out some MuleBar walking boots and head for the hills. But if your trusty fell footwear is £33 for box of 24 looking a little worse for wear, then maybe it’s time to treat your feet. Enter Fed up of sugary gunk and want a Fitness Footwear – a new footwear website for people who’d rather walk great-tasting natural energy bar? You up Snowdon than trudge around town. need to get a MuleBar down you. Fitness Footwear stock a wide range of hiking boots from all the popular MuleBar are a new(ish) company manufacturers. They don’t stop at walking either, with a range of sport formed by a couple of friends after and leisure shoes from running to , and parkour to fashion. a trekking trip across the Andes, They also offer a 365-day returns policy (as long as boots are in an unworn making four fl avours of energy bar: condition), no ‘restocking’ fees and free delivery on all UK orders. Pina Colada, Chocolate Fig Fiesta, Mango Tango and Hunza . Visit www.fi tnessfootwear.com to fi nd out more The main difference between Win a pair of Merrell walking boots MuleBars and other products on the market is that these bars are from Fitness Footwear 100% natural: a mix of fruit, nuts, Fitness Footwear have got three pairs of Merrell Chameleon Arc Mid cereals and rice so you’ve got a waterproof walking boots (worth £89.99) to give away to lucky readers. mix of sugars and carbohydrates for both shorter and longer-term Merrell Chameleon Arc Mid features: energy. And as for the taste? • Waterproof construction Reportedly pretty damn good – but why not enter our competition • Air cushion midsole and fi nd out for yourself. • Protective rubber toe bumper • Breathable padded tongue Features include: • Anatomical footbed to provide comfort and support • 100% natural and organic JustJust fi nd out: • Real, tasty food • The bars are Fair Trade Name four hiking boot brands available Q. • Made in Britain at Fitness Footwear. • Member of ‘1% for the Planet’ group of companies

Find out more and order online at www.mulebar.com

Win a box of MuleBars We’ve got two bumper boxes of 24 MuleBars to give away to lucky readers – worth £33 each. To win a box just fi nd out:

Q. Name the climber who took MuleBars to Everest this May.

14 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

14-15 Stuff.indd 14 6/8/08 14:27:23 Hog Bouldering Mats £120 (Ground Hog) £135 (Long Hog) If you’re in need of a new this season, then check out the new offerings from The Climbing Factory – a team of dedicated boulderers with extensive experience in the foam industry. The mats are made and sourced wholly in the Peak District, and are specifi cally designed for our lovely damp British bouldering conditions.

They’ve started their range with two mats. First there’s the Ground Hog: tough, durable and generously sized (130x105x10cm) – ideal for highball problems and uneven ground. Then for traverse fanatics there’s the Long Hog: a versatile mat which can also be used for standard use. Use its full length for traverses (240x84x6.5cm) or fold it double to form a great standard mat (120x 84x13cm). It features a second-to-none foam system that allows each section of the mat to be just 6.5cm thick whilst still providing excellent support.

Features for both mats include: • 3-layer foam for resilience and shape retention • 3-way carry system • Buckles for ease of opening/closing • 1000-denier waterproof and durable cordura outer cover • Side rings for pegging on slopes • Reversible

Hog Mats also offer made-to-measure mats – so you can get one perfect for the fi t of your car. Prices quoted on application.

Buy online at www.climbingfactory.co.uk. Free delivery anywhere in the UK.

Win a Ground Hog or Long Hog Make rocky landings a thing of the past. We’ve got two mats to giveaway: one Ground Hog and one Long Hog. Just tell us:

Q. In which Peak District town are Hog mats manufactured?

Issue 50 winners Many thanks to all those who entered competitions in the last issue, and well done if you won. Get entering these great competitions and it could be you showered in free gear next time. A full winners list is available from the BMC if required. How to enter the competitions Email [email protected] with your answers. Or jot something onto a postcard and send it to: Summit, BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. Don’t forget to state your name, address, which competition(s) you’re entering and size if appropriate. Good luck! Closing date is 01/10/08 Want to see your product here? We’re always on the lookout for new products to feature on these pages. It’s free and very easy to arrange, email [email protected] to fi nd out more.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 15

Helly14-15 Hanson.indd Stuff.indd 15 1 4/8/088/8/08 11:54:14 10:16:02 that’s me

NaomiThat’s Buys, 26, Dental Receptionist, Burnleyme The satanic Lancashire Quarries have long smouldered with some of the finest climbing talents this country has ever known. The foreboding walls and no-nonsense difficulty play right into the hands of the down-to-earth local personality, and climbers like Hank Pasquil, Paul Pritchard, Gareth Parry and Ian Vickers have all learnt their craft here before going on to make their mark.

Firmly in that tradition is Lancastrian Naomi Buys, and her husband, Jordan. Both from a very traditional apprenticeship, they’ve gone on to excel – with influences ranging from the dank quarries to local competitions at BoulderUK.

s such, Naomi’s and I got a place on the British achievements have Bouldering Team. A been across the board, and include on-sighting E5, I used to think I could do everything bouldering V9, flashing F7b and and get away with it. But my health red-pointing F7c. She also deteriorated a lot while I was doing represented her country for competitions, and I ended up getting three years on the British ulcerative colitis. It’s a pretty nasty illness Bouldering Team. However, that ended up putting me in hospital, I Naomi, first and foremost, think it was a way of saying slow down. just wants to climb, and any grades that come out of this I work at a dentist, but I don’t look are very much second place. into people’s mouths. I’m a A climber’s climber. receptionist there. It’s quite a posh dentist, so you have to be very I live in Burnley, but don’t hold it organised. I like that. against me. It’s really easy to get away, to the Lakes, Yorkshire and North We’re both Jehovah’s Witnesses. It’s Wales. But it is rough – on Friday night a great commitment in our lives, we everyone’s out for a scrap. spend a lot of time studying the bible and teaching other people about it. Climbing can become an obsession, I started climbing on a wall at The bible’s a great book, full of too big a thing in your life. We have school. Then teamed up with my prophecies; if you want answers in life, to be careful about that, we have to brother Joel – I bought a guidebook, he we believe they are in there. remember the spiritual side. And if bought a rack and we explored the you believe that life is a gift, doing life- quarries. It was pretty traditional, We’ve gone round houses, knocking threatening routes starts to not feel leading routes on-sight, a kebab, a pint on doors. Sometimes you get bad right. We’ve both eased back on this, then catching the bus home. reactions, but there have been times and found more fulfilment from sport when someone has answered the door, climbing and bouldering. I met my husband at a Jamaican and they’ve been desperate in their life evening. Then introduced him to for some sort of answers. It’s very There are two things that Lancashire climbing – he was very pushy and soon fulfilling, and, like a lot of things, very quarries breed: midges and good started to get good. After we got misunderstood. I worry that people will climbers. I think it’s the Lancashire married, BoulderUK opened, and think that we’re fruit-loops, but then, personality. The climbing that is, not totally transformed the way we you have to be true to yourself, and let the midges. It’s very down-to-earth up climbed – it made training enjoyable – people make their own minds up. here and there’s little sense of the rat

16 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

16-17 that's me.indd 16 8/8/08 10:16:58 that’s me

Interview by Niall Grimes. Photograph by Alex Messenger.

race that you get in bigger cities. And Female climbers in Britain are chillaxing. It has to involve lots of the quarries have such great routes, really starting to believe in bubble bath, a cold drink, and a good really pushy. themselves. Competitions are great, book. I’m very choosy about the book you get a chance to measure yourself though, it’s got to be a gripping thriller. We live a very simple life. We live in a against other women, and there are small house with a tiny mortgage. We loads of inspirational role models out I want to keep my balance. In the next both work part-time, so we don’t have there. But if I could say one thing to five years I want to go to new places, any money for luxuries; if we want to young female climbers, it’s don’t be a climb classics, progress in bouldering go on holiday, we really have to budget. climbing girlfriend, be a climber. and maybe climb an 8a. But I don’t want But that’s okay. We’ve made the choices to push it so much that I get stressed, about the life we want to lead, and it I love good food. But I struggle with and I also want to keep my spiritual side makes me really happy. That’s precious. self-control, if I didn’t watch it, I think healthy. At the minute, I’m very happy, I’d be twenty stone! and I want to stay that way. I enjoy an E1 as much as an E5. I just love to go somewhere and do I absolutely have to have a long bath Naomi is sponsored by Boreal and the classics. at least five nights a week. I call it BoulderUK. ■

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 17

16-17 that's me.indd 17 7/8/08 09:36:52 art of climbing

Art of Johnclimbing Redhead, Image Maker

John Redhead was a controversial figure on the North Wales climbing scene during the ‘eighties and ‘nineties. Variously from Liverpool and Llanberis, his large canvases were bold slashes of colour, and he thrived on the reaction they, and he, provoked. Was he a modern-day shaman paying homage to the Earth Goddess – or was he simply sexually obsessed?

egardless, few could whole life has been intensely contemporary fashions offering a argue with his greatest preoccupied with the making of momentary buzz it’s a clever Rwork – the very art of images from the land, the hills and consumer trick that, when the climbing itself. A fantastically somewhere else as if my life novelty wears off, will leave you bold and talented climber, his depended on it. Incuts and side- wondering what next. Tesco as an new routes were a pointer to a pulls are constants within the ever- art gallery? future that is only now being changing flux and re-invention of realised. Characterised by lethal my work. Perhaps it’s not surprising that I seriousness and intense have long been a cynic of the art difficulty, they were as Back in the ‘eighties when I was world, and always an outlaw to the uncompromising in line as in most active as a climber, the studio business of art and climbing. It name: Raped by Affection, was as much a rock face and the would be easy for me to say that I no Misogynist’s Discharge, The rock face a studio. I called the longer paint, that I no longer climb. Bells, The Bells, Margins of the commitment to the routes a kind of So does this article end here? Do I Mind, Womb Bits and Sexual ‘field of savagery’ and related the have more to say on the subject? Oh Salami to state but few. Yet, ascents to a ceremonial act. I didn’t yes, because the dialogue, the ironically he is most notorious for have to climb much, because the language never left me and moves a route at Clogwyn Du’r Arddu intense, essential nature of the me in a different way. that no longer exists – Tormented routes was sufficient to provoke and Ejaculation at – a controversial release the images dwelling within. In the ‘nineties it moved me into the half-line that became consumed Intent is the key. The climbing construction of large three- by Master’s Wall. wasn’t the intent, the climbing was dimensional, free-standing panels. the action. The intent is the crux Galleries became a no-go area. His ‘serious clowning’ reached a part of the formula which Suddenly, the shopping centre (yes, height with the publication of ‘And manifested itself back in the studio. Tesco’s!) the marketplace, the One for the Crow’ in 1997, a This is process. The products on the factory site and cathedrals became a nihilistic and leering manifesto. wall always left me disinterested, as performance area where the issues Later projects included Soft if the essential energy that informed of the day were discussed. These Explosive, Hard Embrace (an the work had dissipated. The climbs three-dimensional, semi-abstract antivision of Snowdonia), Bottles in were climbed and the paintings panels were shaped from the slabs, Bottles out (interviews with Heroin painted. The process is the walls and aretes of Cloggy and jig- addicts), and a televised solo up wilderness and the product a zoo. sawed together vaguely into a circle, Norwich Cathedral (with tantric creating a sacred space within the finish). One of his last public I never understood the term everyday. appearances was at the Kendal Film ‘modern art’; I never understood Festival in 2002, where he was ‘sports climbing’. Now, it seems that Passers-by were hassled and pleased to receive no less than 59 modern art has finally ‘come of age’ provoked, the contents of their complaints and one threat of legal for the masses. You too, the shopping bags pulled out for action. He has now left the UK with everyperson, can forget about what discussion, their private lives his partner Mel to create a new life you like. You can cast off cynicism disassembled, their finances and for his son Ryley in the French and confusion over the worth and love life all up for grabs. This . status of art. You too can be created a very volatile intervention modern. Is it cool to own a Tate which I called ritual healing – an I don’t fit easily under labels of art Modern mug and span your semi Urban Vimbuza. At one such and climbing, and in reality never with appropriately moody Rothko performance in Norwich, I climbed served either of these bedfellows well wallpaper? Beware of blatant the cathedral after a street or satisfactorily. Yet, it seems that my merchandising. Like all performance to question the validity 18 | Summit - Autumn“ www.thebmc.co.uk

18-19 art of climbing.indd 18 4/8/08 11:29:22

7/8/08 09:36:35 7/8/08 19 climbing.indd of art 18-19

19 www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn Autumn - Summit | |

Photo: Redhead collection. Redhead Photo: work at www.johnredhead.org. at work

studio in the Pyrenees. the in studio

Find out more about John and his his and John about more out Find

John Redhead in his mobile mobile his in Redhead John

repeated yet? yet? repeated ■

Has Margins of the Mind been been Mind the of Margins Has

happens to pass by. pass to happens

resonance to any life form that that form life any to resonance

mountains emitting their strange strange “their emitting mountains

needles sticking out of the the of out sticking needles

Paintings like huge acupuncture acupuncture huge like Paintings

that interact and juxtapose. juxtapose. and interact that

own aural field – a circle of sounds sounds of circle a – field aural own

sounds. Each painting will have its its have will painting Each sounds.

again – a visualisation of the the of visualisation a – again

And yes, I have started to paint paint to started have I yes, And

but of your immediate space. immediate your of but

perception, not only of the world world the of only not perception,

evoke a unique sense of of sense unique a evoke

and turn inside out. I think it can can it think I out. inside turn and

double back, twist, jump about about jump twist, back, double

where I think sound ratios change, change, ratios sound think I where

This is the media. It is the media media the is It media. the is This

music, not layered into a style. style. a into layered not music,

other worlds and impossible impossible and worlds other

presented as a coherent fiction of of fiction coherent a as presented

one. The source material is is material source The one.

both instrument and gallery in in gallery and instrument both

will. The whole physical site is is site physical whole The will.

the audience to wander through at at through wander to audience the

soundscape in a living atrium for for atrium living a in soundscape

from the raw landscape creates the the creates landscape raw the from

Pyrenees. Textural sonic feedback feedback sonic Textural Pyrenees.

approach to the landscape in the the in landscape the to approach

I’m continuing this forensic forensic this continuing I’m

for climbing in the ‘eighties. the in climbing for

felt whilst developing the quarry quarry the developing whilst felt

wailing and skirmishing of ghosts ghosts of skirmishing and wailing

software. It gave tongue to the the to tongue gave It software.

circuit boards and computer computer and boards circuit

within the animalistic labyrinth of of labyrinth animalistic the within

creatures and playing with them them with playing and creatures

experience, gathering sound sound gathering experience,

Hard Embrace’. It was a strange strange a was It Embrace’. Hard

sounds called ‘Soft Explosion Explosion ‘Soft called sounds

publication of words, images and and images words, of publication

slate quarry. This became a a became This quarry. slate

sounds started with Dinorwig Dinorwig with started sounds

sonically and creating sculptural sculptural creating and sonically

sound. Investigating the landscape landscape the Investigating sound.

palette of paint became digital digital became paint of palette

involved multimedia ventures. The The ventures. multimedia involved

Re-shaping in the ‘nineties ‘nineties the in Re-shaping

the spire. the

inside of the very topmost part of of part topmost very the of inside

ritual trickery! I had a w*nk in the the in w*nk a had I trickery! ritual

ancient, pagan site. A kind of of kind A site. pagan ancient,

energy whilst negotiating the the negotiating whilst energy

to release the angst-laden street street angst-laden the release to

and use of sacred sites today, and and today, sites sacred of use and art of climbing of art interview

SHARMAChris By Niall Grimes 20 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 20 6/8/08 14:29:17 interview

limbing is now spelled Sharma, once C shouted the American climbing magazines, and they were right. Chris Sharma has been at the very top of the climbing game for ten years, travelling the globe to power his way up previously unimaginable blank canvases of rock.

Now 27, he is balanced on the crest of a wave; here he talks exclusively to Niall Grimes about a life lived through climbing, his motivations and just how he will feel handing the torch over to the next generation.

Chris Since he started deep-water soloing, Chris Sharma had wanted to fi nd something right at his limit, and he found it here, at Es Pontas off the coast of Mallorca. The crux featured a wild seven-foot dyno that took SHARMA about 50 attempts to catch. He didn’t the route, but it’s believed to be F9a+. Photo: Corey Rich / Aurora Photos

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 21

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 21 6/8/08 14:29:26 interview

Chris Sharma - a life lived through climbing. Photo: Keith Ladzinski.

Climbing is the window we see our life through but it’s just part of our life. It’s not like we’re machines, it’s more a natural expression of being happy.

22 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 22 8/8/08 10:18:34 interview

s Chris Sharma the World’s ‘multi-nation lecture tour’ (England Do you think that advances are Greatest Rock Climber? Is there and Swansea!). The funny thing was getting closer to the limit? Ianyone with a DVD player who how normal it was to meet him. I On a personal level, or on a climbing- doesn’t know of the life, philosophies realised that this was due to how in-general level? If it’s on a personal Iand climbs of this young similar he was in real life to what we level, I can tell you. I’ve been climbing Californian? A young, strong- have seen so often on telly. The slowly for fifteen years now. I started when I fingered teenager, first viewed in the delivered, earnest attempts to give was twelve, and within five years was Free Hueco video, who really moved answers, the soft calmness and a climbing F8c+ and F9a. After you get into a starring role in my favourite- certain vulnerability. So similar, in accustomed to climbing, it feels like ever climbing flick, Rampage – a fact, that at one point I reached for the it’s hard to improve a lot, the fantastic display of different values volume control. increments are so small. So, I don’t and personalities. Before the interview, one last thing think I’m way stronger than I was five to point out. Hoping to find some years ago, but I have been taking Chris’s abilities, joy, and most dark flaw in his character – I have yet what I’ve learned, my experiences importantly, his personality, rose off to find someone of either sex who can from the past, and building on those. the screen, in film after film, article bring themselves to dislike the guy – upon article, and the thing that came I’ve got to say, I thought he was a How then could you categorise, off these, was that sense that you really nice person. What you see is say, your first, middle and last five actually knew something about Chris. what you get. The person in the video years in terms of your change? For the first time since Johnny Dawes, is the person you meet, and I imagine My first five years were getting here was a figure that climbers could also the person you have known for involved in climbing. I had this huge really care about. ten years. improvement really through natural The blockbusters have continued. ability. Then from 17 until 22 I was First there was the wide-angled joy of Here are the results of my intrusions. really into bouldering, but when I his first ascent of Realization, nine- think of that time, I guess I wasn’t something, then as a shade-hunting As a climber, what’s been your quite as motivated. I’d realised that I sunshine-guru in Pilgrimage. Lately, the best achievement? was a very talented climber, and never all-conquering King Lines has taken a I’d have to say Es Pontas in Mallorca. really had to work to get better or feel reflective look at a figure knowingly I’ve done a lot of hard sport routes fit. Maybe, as I’d always taken it for balanced on the crest of a wave. and stuff, but that route, to me, was granted, I wasn’t so bothered. It was It charts his yawning success on kind of like inventing a new style, it’s always like, “Oh, I’ll do it next year.” Three Degrees of Separation – his so perfect that it really felt like In the last five years I realise that I’m screen-busting F9a at Ceuse in something new. And of course, there’s not going to be at my peak forever, and . It follows his attempts on an Realization. if I want to do certain things in unclimbed line at Clark Mountain, climbing, I need to focus, now. California – a 60-metre hurricane of Realization has had six ascents But it’s normal not to be motivated. non-positions and never-holds – now, what do you make of that? It’s normal – when you’ve done things which has spat him out on numerous I think it’s great. Although, it is all your life – to go through ups and 20-metre falls. It charts his attempts, definitely a lot harder to do the first downs. You can get bombed out about and eventual success, on the amazing ascent of something – you have to that, or you can think that you’re not deep-water solo of Es Pontas, have the vision to see that it’s doing the right thing. I think it’s pretty Mallorca. A battle worthy of epic possible, really believe that it can be standard to go through these phases. poetry that yielded one of the world’s done and keep working at it. When Climbing is the window we see our life most celebrated lines. Now with a other people have done something, through but it’s just part of our life. It’s huge celebrity status, Chris has the you know that it’s within the human not like we’re machines, it’s more a luxury of not having to buy his way realm and it’s easier to talk yourself natural expression of being happy. onto magazine covers with big grades, into it. and can afford to leave his creations It sounds like you had a time when unrated. However these climbs all Would you say you were stronger you weren’t sure about your life? come on the market well above F9a, than other climbers? I started at 12 and climbed non-stop and all represent the cutting edge on Not necessarily, I wouldn’t say I had from there, so maybe I became curious astounding lines. any special qualities. It’s not like the about other things I’d missed out on. I He continues his quest. Now living human genes have evolved towards never took climbing very seriously, but in Spain, he’s bolted up several more climbing in a better way. Maybe I in the last few years have been more DVD-worthy projects – a line in Santa have a better perception of what’s aware that time is limited. I’ve got to Linya, a limestone cave on a possible. It’s not like people are way take advantage of the time I have, and gobsmacking scale near , a stronger now then they were 20 years not question what I should be doing. line beside his Ceuse masterpiece, ago. The early ‘eighties, and ‘nineties Realisation, and a line beside La had some really great climbers, but Does that give you more freedom? Rambla in Siurana. When these lines they were standing on the edge of Yeah, it’s made climbing more get done, they’ll no doubt be right at something that was just being broken rewarding. It was good to be playful, but the very limit too. into. You’ve got to really believe now that I have to dedicate myself a bit I caught up with Chris in the flesh something is possible and convince more, I’m not questioning things as while he was in Sheffield as part of a yourself that you can do it. much. I feel more settled with who I am.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 23

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 23 6/8/08 14:29:50 interview

You have to have the vision to see that it’s possible, really believe that it can be done and keep working at it. When other people have done something, you know that it’s within the human realm.

Chris Sharma about to catch one of the three wild dynos on his route, Three Degrees of Separation (F9a) at Ceuse, France. Photo: Corey Rich / Aurora Photos.

24 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 24 6/8/08 14:30:18 interview

Chris Sharma powering his way through Witness the Fitness (V15) - a 40- foot horizontal roof problem in the Ozark Mountains, Arkansas. Photo: Corey Rich / Aurora Photos.

And do you think that experience That thing you mentioned earlier, When you climb harder projects, is something that a lot of people the thing that it takes to do the first does it comes down to the mental go through, that perhaps it’s ascent, the vision – have you had side or the physical side? nothing special to climbing? times when the vision has failed? Both. It’s such a fine, fine line. You can Yeah, I think so. Climbing is a sport, Living in Spain you have a funny find lines that are just within your but it’s also like a lifestyle. And it’s problem – where do we go today? You grasp, just out of your reach. You have something that we do for such a long can projects all over the place, to improve, to become a better climber. period of time that our phases in life are and you should really be focussing But you also have to be determined reflected in our approach. your energy on something, but you enough, and keep a positive attitude. just keep going around finding more That’s definitely mentally challenging. So where do you see the next five and more lines. Nothing really gets years, what do you think will done. So at some point you have to Are there times when you’ve started happen then - does the realisation just pick something, focus on it and to lose your positive attitude? that time is finite bring extra stick to it. Totally. Six weeks is the maximum pressure? I’ve ever been able to work anything Yeah, but in a positive way. I can focus It sounds like your passion is for straight, then I have to take a break. on the things I want to do, without redpointing. Do you do much wasting so much time. I really want to on-sighting? What routes have taken the do that route on Clark Mountain you Climbing routes at my limit really longest? know. That’s definitely one project motivates me. On-sighting’s a Realization or Es Pontas. Those are the that’s really important to me before I different style of climbing. I really like longest things I’ve ever worked on. lose my edge. It’s also inspiring to see it, it’s fun, but it’s a different game. how people like Ben Moon have You have to climb well and fight and Was there ever a time when you evolved through climbing, now figure out the sequence. But if you doubted you would ever do them? owning his own company. The fall, it’s not necessarily because the Definitely. After my first trip to business of climbing – that’s pretty route was too hard for you, it’s often Realisation I was burnt out on that interesting. Sometimes I think I should because you don’t find the right hold. thing – I was only 16, had tried hard maybe go back to school, but there are What really attracts me to doing hard and didn’t do it. I didn’t even think so many aspects to climbing that I can redpoints is to find something that is about going back until a couple of learn from – the design side, learning absolutely at my limit, my total years afterwards. The whole process the industry. physical limit. takes time, you can’t force it.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 25

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 25 8/8/08 10:19:24 interview

Is it a battle? and climb a lot of hard routes, but I’m climbers, that’s for sure, it’s good It is, but slowly, in its own time. You not so motivated by that; repeating a motivation. But to compare have to beat the route into lot of F8c+’s and F9a’s doesn’t hold my climbers is hard. Climbing is a submission, not yourself. It’s easy to attention. I end up trying things that sport, but it’s not like tennis or get down, to lose psyche, and get are super at my limit – and spend basketball. I was thinking about into a position where you’re not most of my time falling. But that’s the this the other day – you can’t really going to send the route. You have to process, I want to do something that’s compare music, or musicians, and keep a fresh attitude; make the most the next level for me. say which is the best one. Well, you of the motivation and put all your can, but it’s much more subjective. energy into it. When the motivation Do you compare yourself Just like climbing. goes, when it stops being fun, when against routes? you’re forcing yourself up it, then it Yeah. Like last year I was in Ceuse, I Which other climbers do you doesn’t seem to work so well. I think, bolted a route that became Three think are impressive? in a way, my lack of discipline has Degrees of Separation. I was there I thought people like Dani Andrada always been good for me. When I’m with Dave Graham and Ethan and Edu Marin were impressive. not motivated, I don’t force it, I quit. Pringle, and they were working on Then I saw . Man, that It’s kept climbing fun. I’ve seen Realization. I’d been bolting all day – really blew my mind – he’s the first people get super-serious about long, hard and physical work – and I person I’ve seen who’s really on climbing and really frustrated, and came down and they asked if I another level. then just kind of give the whole wanted a go. I was like, “I’ll give it a thing up. Maybe I have a lazy streak, burn, just for fun.” I ended up getting How? Was his climbing but the motivation has always come way up past the crux, and that was my noticeably different? back, and stronger. warm-up burn. It was cool because it Yeah, totally. I don’t necessary felt way easier than it did years ago, it compare myself to other climbers, but Could you say that by climbing felt like a real improvement. I can fathom what they are doing. such hard things, that in any With Adam, I’m not so sure. He’s given year you spend most of life And what about other climbers - only 15 now, but give him a few years not experiencing success? do you compare yourself to them – and some muscle and reach – and Yeah, totally! I know I could climb a at all? he’ll be doing stuff way harder than lot of routes. A load of people just try It’s cool to climb with good anything I’ve done.

Repeating a lot of F9a’s doesn’t hold my attention. I end up trying things that are super at my limit – and spend most of my time falling.

Sharma in contemplative mood. Photo: Prana.

26 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 26 8/8/08 10:20:13 Has he got the mind for it too? that much older, that much closer to the end Yep. Seems like it. He’s very focussed and of my career. Now is the time to take climbs very well. He climbs as if he’s been advantage of the fitness and the strength climbing for a really long time: great footwork that I have. It’s kind of motivating to do and decisive moves. something about it, to actually focus and channel my energy in one direction. And I What is it in particular that blew you guess giving more thought to how I can away about him? make climbing something that will last and He’s just a super-good climber, man. He’s super- support me throughout my life. strong and super-fast. These projects that I’ve bolted and have been working on for a long time Do you think there will come a time – he gets on them and he’s – just... wow. when you won’t be doing what you’re doing right now? Would you like him to try that line you Yeah, sure I do. I’m climbing in my prime, bolted to the right of ? but that’s not something that will last He did try it, and he did great. He was lacking forever, you can’t keep expecting to do the height on a move because he’s still really hardest things. It’s normal, the transitions small. But I saw him and thought I’d better happen naturally. I think my life is always send this quick, he just needs to grow 3cm going to be tied to climbing though – and he’s got it. I bolted a line to the left of maybe I’ll get more into teaching climbing Realization last summer, something futuristic. or equipment design. It’s important to There were about ten moves in a row where I have things to motivate you: a musical just couldn’t do a single move – but I could instrument, study, painting, climbing, hang on the holds, I imagined it would be starting a business or whatever. You’ve got possible. So that’s a line for him. It’s cool to to live a fulfilling life, whatever that takes. put up routes for the future. I’ve cultivated a But I don’t have a plan – I take it one day vision of seeing lines, even if they are too hard at a time and see what opportunities for me. Maybe I’ll bolt some stuff for the next present themselves. generation – for Adam Ondra. Who are your favourite people in If he did go and do these things, which he world? really took things to a different level, I guess, just my friends, who I spend most would it change the way you thought of my time with. I don’t have a really big about climbing yourself and your family, so it’s more my friends, especially motivations? those from back home in Santa Cruz. I just want to push my own limits. They’re really like my family. They’re Obviously it’s motivating and encouraging mostly climbers but some of them have that people respect my achievements, but been like big brothers to me over the years. I’m definitely not going to quit climbing just because someone is climbing harder than Does your travel make it hard to be me. It’s a natural progression, it’s the next connected with them? generation. It’s motivating. I’ve been in that I’ve always been travelling, so I feel fortunate situation before, I’ve been that kid. So it’s to have a really big community of friends cool to see things progress. spread out all over the world. That’s just kind of how it’s worked out. It’s always been hard Is there something, over the next five to pick a place to call home, but I’ve got a years, that you want to achieve? Is there transient lifestyle and I’m used to that. a place you want to take climbing to? For me, if I could do that project on Clark So where are you at right now? Mountain, I’d be satisfied. It’d leave behind I like being in Spain. It seems to suits me something that’d be a milestone in the world of pretty well. I don’t have any big plan, just climbing. But at the same time, climbing’s a very to take it one step at a time and see what personal thing – I’m not really thinking about happens. And to be smart about it all – to how it affects anyone else. Although, it is great realise that one day I’m not going to be that through the videos people get motivated best climber about, and to not confuse that and inspired. It’s great to have that as a way to with who I am as a person. Who we are is contribute to the climbing community. not necessarily our accomplishments, it’s about how we relate with people and Do you feel like you are reflective approach our life in general. Things are towards the end of your climbing always changing. Climbing is a great thing, career at all? it definitely gives me lot of happiness but Yeah. If I do want to do certain things, like it’s not the source of it. this project in Clark Mountain, then I have You have to find happiness from to make it happen. I’ll be 27 next month, within, you know? ■

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Climb Hot Rock.indd 1 4/8/08 11:55:33 20-27 Chris Sharma.indd 27 8/8/08 10:20:31 travel

Northern Exposure Susie Allison heads to the top of the world to catch some sun – and seals.

Giant inukshuk lvin explained what miles wide, south of the western end of Inuit ceremony. Part of a modern effort (traditional Inuit cairns) overlooking the town would happen if he shot Baffin Island. But I wasn’t here to catch to retain and revitalise traditional of Igloolik. a seal: he’d untie the seals, I’d come for the sun. knowledge and skills. All photos: Susie Allison. A small boat that I sat in, push it At a latitude of 69˚N Igloolik is well With the older Inuit generation now out in front of him until the ice within the Arctic Circle. The sun dying, there is a danger that all their cracked and it dropped into the disappears at the end of November, and experience and knowledge will water, then jump onboard. I I’d travelled north to witness it coming disappear with them. Moving off the grinned weakly, making a back – at the Return of the Sun festival. land and into permanent settlements mental note to hold on. When I’d contacted the Province has completely changed the Inuit way Tourist Office about my plans, their of life. Nevertheless, the arrival of It was early January. I was standing on response had been less than electricity and supermarkets doesn’t sea ice covering the Foxe Strait in encouraging: “It’s cold, dark and there’s alter the fact that the outside Northern Canada, an hour’s skidoo ride no festival.” They were almost right: it temperature usually dips to lower than from the Inuit community of Igloolik. was cold, it was dark but there was a minus 50˚C in February. And given Igloolik is a small island – just a few festival – a recent revival of an ancient the price of food (a can of Coke sells

28 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

28-31 Northern Exposure.indd 28 5/8/08 15:29:57 travel

“We left one of the other for six dollars here compared to one in the south) hunting and outdoor hunters behind at the aglu. survival skills remain as relevant today Looking back, I saw him as they ever were. With a few days to spare before the standing a foot from the festival, I was out seal hunting with Alvin. He rode his skidoo standing up, hole in a squat position: back left knee kneeling on the seat, rifle straight, knees bent, right slung across his back, eyes continually scanning the nearby ice for signs of arm half-raised, holding a weakness and the horizon for signs of poised spear. “ movement. Twice we stopped at sets of polar bear tracks – barely visible patches of disturbed ice. “Two days,” or “a couple of hours,” Alvin simply pronounced before moving on. When the ice was dubious, Alvin got off the skiddo and walked ahead, probing the solidity with a metal spear. Later he found an aglu – a seal breathing hole – a smooth hemisphere of solid ice in an otherwise rough and crystalline flat surface. In the centre of the aglu was a small, irregularly shaped hole through which water was visible; the sea ice we were driving on was barely a few inches thick. We left one of the other hunters behind at the aglu. Looking back, I saw him standing a foot from the hole in a squat position: back straight, knees bent, right arm half-raised, holding a poised spear. I watched as his figure shrunk into a motionless dark speck dwarfed by the landscape. “He’ll stand like that for hours,” Alvin shrugged. A feat of endurance in itself, never mind out here with an air temperature of minus 40˚C.

“the overwhelming sensation was one of smallness – of being a very insignificant human in Northern Exposure the centre of a vast and beautiful landscape. “

A l v i n re t u rn s t o t h e s k i d o o a f t e r p ro b i n g t h e s e a i c e t h i c k n e s s .

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 29

28-31 Northern Exposure.indd 29 5/8/08 15:30:12 travel

photography was the way that my With rifle slung over his shoulder, Alvin hands froze into inflexible claws after is continually watchful for changes in the ice, seals, walrus and polar bears. just a few seconds outside the protection of my borrowed sealskin mitts. Not quite like Scotland. In fact, after being out for a couple of hours, I could feel my core temperature starting to drop and I began to feel sick. I’m not sure whether Alvin’s acclimatisation was simply a matter of living all his life in this environment or if there is some genetic component. Like the other Inuit I met he certainly was in no danger of feeling sick and was apparently able to work with bare hands for as long as he liked. Even when driving the skidoo into a headwind he wore only a pair of sunglasses and left the rest of his face bare. I, on the other hand, barely had the slits of my eyes showing between layers of balaclava, Each of the seal hunters drove their (made by a well-known winter boot face mask and Buff. But my view, albeit own skidoo and towed a komatik – a manufacturer and rated down to minus restricted, was still incredible. sledge. The design of these sledges is as 40˚C) “Those are useless for up here,” he It was like nothing I’ve ever simple as it gets: two long runners with said. I agreed, my feet had gone way past experienced; utterly flat, the sea ice planks of wood lashed across to form a the point of being able to warm them up stretched away to the horizon in all platform. On top of this platform Alvin by wriggling my toes – it felt like someone directions. There were no familiar had tied a small boat and filled it with had swapped my feet for a couple of solid features by which to judge distances, caribou furs for me to sit on. These were wooden blocks. It was about minus 35˚C, and the overwhelming sensation was frozen solid, yet kept me surprisingly but – feet apart – I’ve felt more chilled on one of smallness – of being a very warm. The Inuit have adapted, rather a Scottish winter hill day. insignificant human in the centre of a than changed, their traditional ways to I was pleasantly surprised by how vast and beautiful landscape. take account of the modern world. well my digital camera coped with the And it was beautiful: Arctic sea ice Skidoos allow hunting parties to travel temperature too, although the illuminated by the refracted light of an further and faster than ever before, yet autofocus was slow and the batteries unseen sun must be one of the most the hands on skidoo handlebars will still needed recovery time after every shot. incredible landscapes on Earth. The ice be encased in sealskin, polar bear or dog The least pleasant aspect of Arctic itself is anything but plain white –every fur mitts. Some Inuit use modern boots, such as felt-lined Sorels, but many still wear mukluks – made from sealskin or caribou hide. Alvin sniffed at the boots I’d borrowed

Tea break, and a chance to move freezing limbs.

30 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

28-31 Northern Exposure.indd 30 8/8/08 10:22:01 travel

miniscule variation in surface angle or texture lends it a different hue. Above “Arctic sea ice illuminated by the the horizon the sky fades from pink to refracted light of an unseen sun must dusky purple, to ever deeper shades of blue. And although the sun never be one of the most incredible rises, the tilt of the Earth’s axis means landscapes on Earth.” that its path skims just below the horizon giving a glorious array of will begin coming out of the sea onto they still need traditional knowledge pastel colours. The Arctic in winter is the land-fast ice. passed on by the elders. The Arctic, anything but dark and gloomy. In the past this would have been the beautiful though it may be, is deadly With the skidoo engine turned off signal for families to move their unless treated with the understanding we stood in silence at the edge of the encampment closer to the edge of the and respect it deserves. The Inuit land-fast ice, breathing in the cold air, ice. Nowadays the Inuit live in know this land, this sea and this ice feeling the prickle of individual hair permanent settlements and skidoos and as a people are perfectly adapted follicles freezing in our nostrils. make it easy to haul large carcasses to survival in this frozen world. Gradually I became aware of a sound, back home. Nevertheless, modern Although I consider myself quite at like the dull roar of a distant motorway technology cannot remove all home in the outdoors, thanks to – ice fl oes grating against each other, diffi culty from the hunt. I imagined weekends of hillwalking, climbing, propelled by the current. Close by Alvin launching his small boat, biking and paddling, watching these some fl oes had been pushed up over clambering into it from the unreliable Inuit hunters scan the landscape for one another to form pressure ridges – ice. He showed me the iron hooks he’d signs of life or wait motionless at a seal long lines of geometric ice shards, use to haul himself and the boat back aglu made me realise that my piled up to a metre high. Alvin looked onto the ice after collecting the seal’s recreational activities merely scratch around him: “I’d be out here all the body from the water. It would take the surface. These people live on the time if I could. It changes everyday.” phenomenal arm strength to regain land, intimately connected with it in a Even as he said it I saw that the solid ground, neither Alvin nor seals way that I can only begin to patch of open water nearby had are particularly light and the ice edge comprehend. ■ changed shape since we arrived: an ice would crack repeatedly before fl oe was detaching itself from the becoming thick enough to support Susie Allison is a BMC member living land-fast ice we stood on, closing off their combined weight. in Glasgow. Her visit to Igloolik was one lead of clear water and opening Despite the skidoo sitting quietly on funded by the Winston Churchill another. Thin, dark clouds hover over the ice this was an ancient scene. Inuit Memorial Trust who annually award these patches of open water. The Inuit hunting methods have barely changed Travel Fellowships to call such clouds tunguniq – water sky with the introduction of new British citizens to – and use them for navigation. When technologies. Hunters still come out acquire knowledge and the sun’s zenith is higher than the to the fl oe edge to feed their families, experience abroad. See tunguniq the Inuit know that walrus they still need physical strength, and www.wcmt.org.uk.

Alvin stands on a pressure ridge, scanning the far horizon for signs of life.

“my feet had gone way past the point of being able to warm them up by wriggling my toes – it felt like someone had swapped my feet for a couple of solid wooden blocks.”

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 31

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Summit Trekking Feature.indd 2 6/8/08 09:38:20 short walks Swiss Valais Don’t let an alpine walking trip swallow your entire year’s holiday allowance. Lindsay Cannon reckons you can sample the best of the Alps in fi ve days – with the Tour des .

En-route to Mex village. nineteenth-century spectacular seven summits or All photos: Lindsay Cannon. traveller once described ‘teeth’ of the Dents du Midi, a A the Tour des Dents du range crowned by the Haute Cime Midi as the “best of the Alps at 3,257m. captured in miniature.” And they I prefer to start this circuit at the were right – it’s an ideal quick fi x for Swiss village of Les Marecottes, those in need of a hit of alpine air. perched high above the market town of Martigny. In the past it was an While other ‘Tours’ often take over a important staging post for the week – if not several – this trip can be mailcoach heading through to the completed in four or fi ve days, French border, but today it’s at the packing in jagged peaks, green lakes, end of the road. Such a situation hanging and alpine fl ower means the village has retained its meadows. I fi rst ventured here two character, offering a much more years ago in search of a ‘pure’ walking tranquil base than the bustling trip which would provide a short mountain town of Chamonix which is circuit in a relatively quiet yet just along the railway line. stunning area. This route which Here you can fi nd examples of the circumnavigates the most westerly traditional Valaisian architecture mountain group in Switzerland is which sees houses perched on stone dominated at all times by the toadstools to keep rats and mice from invading. The famous Swiss fi ghting cows are also to be found grazing around Les Marecottes. These stocky black females of the Race d’Herens seem to genuinely enjoy a bout of what can only be described as sumo wrestling for bovines – the last girl standing in the ring wins! In fact, the village is such a lovely place that you might fi nd it diffi cult to get started on the real business of the Tour. For me there is nothing fi ner than a circular trip where there’s no real need to descend back into ‘civilisation’ in the valleys and where public transport isn’t an easy option. Being a slightly perverse creature I also enjoy the fact that not many Brits seem to have heard of the Tour des Dents du Midi. It makes me feel as though I am having a bit of an adventure and boldly forging into unknown territory - even if the reality is that the Swiss have been enjoying this area for The well-situated Refuge de Bonavau. centuries. Starting off from Les Marecottes,

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34-35 Short walks.indd 34 5/8/08 15:31:53 short walks

Essential facts: Tour des Dents du Midi When to go June to mid-October. Check beforehand that the refuges are open – some close earlier than the others. Snow can lie late in the couloirs, which can make crossings interesting.

Getting to Switzerland Head to Geneva. A range of airlines fl y to the city including Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) British Airways (www.britishairways.com) and Flyglobespan (www.fl yglobespan.com ).

Getting to the start Monkshood fl owers. Begin from Les Marecottes. There are trains every 40 minutes from Geneva airport to Martigny, then catch the historic Mont Blanc Express for the fi nal journey to the village with stunning views into the Gorges du Trient.

Accommodation En-route accommodation ranges from a great auberge in Mex, to an eco-friendly refuge at Chindonne, and a ‘heidi’ style mountain hut above Champery. Options are limited so booking is essential.

Maps and guides 1:25,000 Carte Nationale de la Suisse 1304 Val d’Illiez, 1324 Barberine. Route details from Mex village. www.dentsdumidi.ch and www.champery.ch.

Cime de l’est - the ‘little Matterhorn’. the fi rst day takes you up the of Mex brings you to its ancient beautiful valley of Van d’en Haut cobbled streets and the chance to before emerging into the area below sample a glass of Swiss wine from the the mountain that is the Tour Salliere local vineyards as you take in the (3,219m) and your fi rst sight of the views of the Dent de Morcles. green waters of the Lac de Salanfe. Switzerland produces fi rst class A quick morning coffee at the refuge wines, but not enough to create an and then it’s onwards and upwards export market hence the only chance to the Col du Jorat and views that take to enjoy them is on a visit to the in the , the country itself. Weisshorn and the Matterhorn to The Tour stays high at all times and name just a few. never descends into the valleys, Leaving the col, the best is yet to passing through a constantly come as you turn a corner and are changing landscape from benign faced with perhaps the most stunning alpine-fl ower meadows to threatening of the seven summits of the Dents du couloirs with the remains of winter Blanc with Michel-Gabriel Paccard in Midi: the Cime de l’Est at 3,177m. snow clinging to their upper reaches. 1786, went missing supposedly while This peak is often referred to as the For me. one of the high points is the searching for gold. His body has never ‘Petit Cervin’ the ‘little Matterhorn’ journey through the seemingly been found. and its likeness to its bigger cousin in impenetrable gorge of the Pas d’Encel A sad fate indeed, but I can think of Zermatt is obvious. Even although where a handrail protects the exposed far worse days to spend my days than I’ve seen and photographed the peak section. This leads to a wonderful being laid to rest somewhere on the many times it still stops me in my high valley below the hanging fl anks of the Dents du Midi. ■ tracks to gaze at its audacious sheer on Mont Ruan (3,044m). It was in this Lindsay Cannon is an International Mountain Leader (IML) faces and outrageous ridges. area that , who and presents on The Adventure Show for the BBC. A steep descent down to the village completed the fi rst ascent of Mont Join her in the Alps at www.tracks-and-trails.com.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 35

34-35 Short walks.indd 35 5/8/08 15:32:25 rock climbing

DREAMof white

End of a perfect horses day on the slab. Forty years ago two young men tip-toed across a Dave Pearce (L) and Ed. Drummond at the end huge quartzite slab to create arguably what is of the third . No doubt wondering now the most famous climb in Britain. what is to come on the last pitch. Ed Drummond was one of them. Photo: Leo Dickinson. wo fi gures in a landscape out in a state of uproar – raising my voice: “I of Goya. Where to begin? think it might just be possible to traverse Tthey wonder, two young in – Jesus Christ!” – a wave, ten, twenty fathers at the edge of what is about to thirty feet and rising lifts a great white swallow them. Between the sea and wing: Pegasaurius Oceanious emerging the fl eeing sky, a white slab. out of the foaming mouth of the zawn. I have another idea. Gulls knife by cackling, waves advance, Circling behind the serrated top of the smash against the Celtic ramparts, blank face an hour later we’re almost retreating, circling, laughing over the there. “Over here,” I call to Dave, hard, cold slabs of real estate. The moving across the steep, wet hillside like climbers – if that is what they are – the tilting deck of the Titanic. I had steady one another as they peer into the taken a chance and forged ahead, my waves hissing below them. It sounds fi ngers like in the lush green like an uprising of the drowned, grass to get there fi rst. Now, wedged gnashing their teeth on the rocks they together behind a massive fl ake, just will one day break. around the corner from what was out Holy Island, Anglesey; 1968. Allow there, and here, spitting in my face, I me to introduce, Ed Drummond, unclip. “Your lead,” he smiles. Dave Pearce; fi rst new climb. Stealing Shivering – the wind is getting up; my the necklace of Gwen Zawn, stripper stomach sinks… of the cliffs, while King Brown and “Watch me.” his successor, fi erce Lord Crewe sleep Down a short groove, the tail of rope in, dream on, riding dinosaur and trailing between my legs I get my fi rst mammoth to the rescue of sheepish glimpse of the future. Not a pretty sight, maidens held by the chapels. black clouds massing on the horizon, the “What do you think?” A hundred and sun like a bruised eye hurrying on. The fi fty feet down the sea boils “Absolutely,” sea pacing. grins Dave, stroking his Nietzschesque Just around the corner, wanting his moustache. The ground shakes, depth- new father-dark eye on me as I teeter charged foam fl itters like confetti. What ahead, I stop. Splayed upon thin quartz on earth were we doing there on a day ledges I drive home two American pegs, like that? Waiting for a ship? contraband from my recent pilgrimage We were about to be baptised. to the toe of El Capitan. Which did not A single crack splits the great slab. We stoop to me – Nose in the air – while in are holding onto each other – the wind’s the heaven of the meadow discounting

36 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

36-40 Dream of White Horse.indd 36 8/8/08 10:27:04 rock climbing

Is this the most famous image in British climbing? White horses chase the fi rst ascentionists across the slab. Photo: Leo Dickinson.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 37

36-40 Dream of White Horse.indd 37 8/8/08 10:27:21 rock climbing

my dreams I counted my pins, vowing groping mist. First he sees me – on tip I’d return. Now though I was back in toes and fi nger tips about fi fteen feet town – in the real world: Wales. Not out, peering. “How is it?” “It looks”… 3000 feet yet, just 300 up from Shrinking into thin air – hitting any foundations that were shifting beneath remaining evasions on the head – us both as we began climbing away from banging in a peg – panting hard – a baby home. The fi rst among so many angle – ringing like a horseshoe on an weekends, when, like many if not most anvil – in up to the eye, I….calm down. men of our gymless generation our true Cupping my hands around a little cloud love lives were shifting to the rocks, not of hot air I look around. playing in bed with our young wives and There’s an arch a yacht might nudge sprogs on Saturday mornings. beneath, a wide grey eye that the sea Dave descends, clips in, grins: “Let rips through today, that, when we are no the fun begin.” longer here, roaming bands of skeletal “I’ll just have a look.” white elephants might squeeze through Climbing down a few feet I stab a stem, when the sea has run dry and grapes are

Dave Pearce at the end of the third pitch. Photo: Leo Dickinson.

growing on Cloggy. And that’s where our (extra)ordinary Joe hangs out I’d heard, weaving, years ahead of us, the Web, an arachnid trapeze, in the light of which I’d heard Cirque du Soleil had made him an offer: to come onboard and teach the clowns how to climb. Joe, however, declined, concerned that climbers might turn into competing puppets, sports-stars, acrobats, no longer quiet poets of the heights and deeps. “Dave! Remind me to tell you about Spider’s Web and the Brown Owl,” I yell, but he can’t hear me now above the gagging, sucking sea. Not knowing whether I’m coming out or going back inside my hole, my eyes shelter momentarily in a large cave mouth, tunneled into the back of the zawn by millennia of waves. I recall being told that on warm summer days seals sometimes rise from their deep blue sleep, rubbing their eyes – and scratching their heads I imagine – at the fl ightless bipeds scrambling over their heads making strange calls. The things we hear…

38 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

36-40 Dream of White Horse.indd 38 8/8/08 10:28:35 rock climbing

Helen John enjoying the exposure of the fi nal pitch. Photo: Jethro Kiernan.

“Dave? Watch me.” skates until, spread-eagled off what at “On.” The slab soars like a sail, streaked with fi rst blink looked like a nipple – holding Pure joy to watch he sways up, stroking spray. Overhead herds of clouds my breath, reaching deep into the the rock like a lover the cold shoulder of migrate….silent, white rain deer, fl eeting cleavage of the central crack, I’m their other, protruding from the covers ghosts… Paused in a gust my mind murmuring with pleasure. There, after at fi rst light. The air is tangy, I can smell fl oats, fi ngering the dips and bumps as consulting with several long slings, by the salt, savouring the brew of danger braille left by the blind winds and arrangement into a rather spare and delight, a dash of this and that and tapping rains, while, unknown to me, or designer bra I hang out from a couple of whatever it takes to keep moving out of Dave, hunchbacked into the belay. ample, pointy jugs, staring out to sea range of the insatiable sea. Dave studied Pouring into the zawn below between like a dog for the sound of his master’s philosophy, as did I, and the way he my legs I can only stare as the mother of voice. This is fun. climbed refl ected this in the calm all waves is having an avalanche – The lively wind dies… That feels manner, the gentle persuasion, the licking her long salty tongue all over me good. Settling down the sea slurps, mindful, Russellian, rocking and rolling her waters burst – can’t hear see eyes quietly digesting. “Climb when you’re way he humoured the rock. My screwed shut gurgling like I’m being ready” I chirp. personal saint, though I never told him drunk, dragging me down… He’s off! A patter, quick foot-switch, that, he would only have laughed. Almost. Helmet streaming like a hop, skip, sway – weigh-up… high side In his face the leftwards forking crack bowl of water inverted I emerge step – step – an arse-splitting stretch – is a smile. He beams… intimately, spluttering, crowned, clown of slapstick feeling for the jugs… “You fl ew across! conspiratorially; as now, forty years later and Dave is pissing himself, the gulls are Wow!” “Not too bad” he said accurately I believe he must have done often, as any cackling again and the sea booming a – “Nice lead,” while all the time sorting good man can, in foreplay with the thousand cannon salute as the wave out the gear for the next pitch… Which, beloved obstacle and substance of his returns to its insurgent foaming grave. “Oh” – relieved, and miffed – handing dreams. A cat comes to mind, a black You call this fun? him the nuts and pegs I am clearly not cat, a big quick cat bounding… Until his “I’m soaked – slack… SLACK!” going to be leading. I have to give it to luck ran out on the same abrupt land’s For the fi rst twenty feet, feet iffy on him. No question; straight as an arrow. end just a few hundred yards up the the trickle-vined slab it’s like edging on The rope quivers... coast, thirty years later, when a boulder

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36-40 Dream of White Horse.indd 39 8/8/08 10:29:07 rock climbing

rolled… Landlord of the crowded Reaching a shallow niche, stopping over; ‘earth’s mad missionaries’ in bivouac, Dave made everyone feel at before the long maze of overhangs like a Hughes’ great phrase; suspending home, including me, even after – to my breaking wave that may take us to a judgment, skylarking all over the world, utter astonishment – years later, great fi nish, he calls down to me. We everyone partners, all those routes; so jumping his new route The Cow over don’t have long. little time. my old one, The Moon. Earthy as “Climbing.” Quick as a snake I slip With all that still to come, then and farmers, dependable as astronauts, my belay and weave up to join him. there that day we’d had it – high in the together on a climb, no matter where, We look at each other: And laugh… branches of the world-wide tree of life we were at home. And if you had to go, “Now what?” we all once inhabited, balanced on the he was someone you could have gone in And there I must leave it….at the start golden boughs… It was as good as it front of. of the last pitch. Which is where – if, gets, watching millions of wild, white The sun was starting to die down, late in the day you fi nd yourself you may horses running towards us in the dawning on us for the fi rst time that day fi nd yourself wondering if you’re brazen reins of the setting sun. And its ultimately crematorial light. Clouds entirely all there… ‘Which was with night coming on I head straight up, parting behind us, rising eagerly to answered by threading the labyrinth the feeling for holds, treading on air, hoping whatever diffi culty the crack handed following weekend, threading the against hope the sun will stop. ■ him, popping the occasional nut in its labyrinth, changing from beast back to largely open mouth he leaves it, man as I ran the gauntlet of feeling Dave Pearce died in 2002. Ed stemming left and manteling up with a afraid, fi nding my way back inside to Drummond left the UK in 1992, moving little deer leap onto a small white ledge I that Eden of innocent freedom of to San Francisco. Read more about Ed would not be surprised to fi nd an icon movement and thought that the Drummond in a Summit “That’s Me” on one fi ne day if I pass that way again. climbing life was to bring us over and interview at www.thebmc.co.uk/summit aDREAM of white horses Palomino in the morning, as the sun rose higher they dashed, manes on fire, pounding their hooves on the rocks. And smashed – we were climbing – sank, broken, foaming…The wind lashed them back, combing their matted hair, swollen green sea mares twenty hands high, surrounded by herds of nervous blue stallions, snorting and champing, trampling us under, given the chance.

We stood by – a pitch apart – watching the rein of our rope that led between the last grey overhang, redden like a vein in the sinking sun. And breathed again.

Their fire gone, the dark horses were drinking, and we were thinking of a name…Nothing had been forced – Then the tide turned, they surged, rearing – manes smoking white – wild horses running, running in the night towards us.

40 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

36-40 Dream of White Horse.indd 40 8/8/08 10:29:24 pa_SummitsAd_SummitMag:Layout 1 24/7/08 13:56 Page 1

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KMF Summit Half Page AD.indd 1 4/8/08 14:37:03 sum41.indd 1 4/8/08 16:34:27 climbing walls Aiming High

Reach your peak with the brand new National Indoor Aims of NICAS Climbing Achievement Scheme. By Guy Jarvis. The National Indoor Climbing Award Scheme aims to: hen I was seven, I took summer. It’s run by the ABC Training • Develop climbing movement skills my fi rst swimming test. Trust, a registered charity set up for the and improve levels of ability W Coughing and purpose, and is aimed primarily at • Learn climbing rope-work and spluttering to the other end of the young climbers (7 to 25). It aims to how to use equipment safely pool, I was motivated by the improve training, increase motivation, • Develop risk assessment and promise of a certifi cate, a badge and boost participation and increase management skills in the sport recognition from my peers. recognition of achievement. • Work as a team, communicate Ten years on and I was still Working in a major it with, and trust a climbing partner swimming in competitions around the doesn’t take long to see that’s where • Develop an understanding of the country; 35 years on and I can still most people, young and old, are now sport, its history and future plough the odd length at speed. That introduced to climbing. Times have challenges badge, and the others that followed it, changed, walls have literally become • Point the way to further challenges started a legacy of health and fi tness the chalk face of the instructing in climbing beyond the scheme that I continue to capitalise on to this industry. The young are particularly • Provide a record of personal day. Develop fi tness and skills early attracted to indoor climbing, especially achievement and accreditation enough and they last a lifetime. when liability, transport, cost and What about climbing? There’s no weather make it harder for them to scheme can point people down many denying that indoor climbing is very access outside opportunities – many paths after completion: sport climbing, popular now – at the Bristol Climbing walls have thriving junior clubs. trad climbing, competitions, instructor Centre alone we’re running over 2,000 Instruction has often overly focussed training or on to the mountains. instructional sessions a year. But many on safety at the expense of climbing NICAS will have provided a thorough of these were one-off top-roping itself; the ABC Training Trust was keen grounding in basic skills, and sessions – tasters with no progression. to promote both good practice and knowledge that they can take with Any other sport with these climbing techniques so that new them on their own path. participation fi gures would have climbers could catch the bug of what To deliver the scheme, a network of developed a achievement scheme years climbing is really all about – vertical NICAS Primary Centres have been ago – think of canoeing and movement. developed around the country whose swimming, gymnastics or sailing. We role is to train, advise and administer have been slower off the mark, but How NICAS works log books to other climbing walls and now, at last, there is such a scheme – The NICAS scheme is split into fi ve instructors. Most of the Primary the National Indoor Climbing levels – each level progressively Centres also run outdoor courses so Achievement Scheme, or NICAS. introduces skills, knowledge and NICAS graduates can have the NICAS gives kids something to aim for. NICAS was launched in walls responsibilities. The whole scheme opportunity to apply their newly Photo: Guy Jarvis. around the whole of the UK this requires over 100 hours of climbing for honed skills to real rock. a motivated student, depending on So look out for the young climbing aptitude. Candidates receive a log stars of the future. They’re currently book to chart their progress and a found in climbing walls all around the certifi cate after each level is country and hopefully NICAS will fi nd completed. You can join the scheme many more of them and help them to at any level and it’s fully transferable develop their full potential. If you see a around the country. young climbing lizard at your wall Registration costs just £4 for Part eagerly fi lling in a log book, then you’ll 1 of the scheme, incorporating know they’re on the right track. ■ levels 1 and 2. The more advanced Part 2 (levels 3-5) costs £7.50. Guy Jarvis is the manager of Levels 1 and 2 require instructor Undercover Rock climbing wall in supervision but levels 3-5 can be Bristol, and Chair of the ABC undertaken more independently training trust. Find out more at with instruction at key points. The www.nicas.co.uk.

42 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

42-43 NICAS.indd 42 7/8/08 09:34:16 climbing walls

Young climbers can work towards fi ve levels of award. Photo: Guy Jarvis How does NICAS relate to the Training Board Awards? The Association of British Climbing Walls (ABC) developed the scheme over three years. There has been wide consultation with the BMC, MCof S, Mountain Leader Training UK and the Training Boards, including an 18-month pilot that saw over 2,000 youngsters go through the scheme at ten ABC-affi liated walls. The scheme has been designed to complement MLTUK’s new Climbing Wall Award (CWA), to give instructors a uniform template to train budding wall rats with. Any organisation with a climbing wall can apply to become an Awarding Centre by contacting the ABC Training Trust. See www.nicas.co.uk.

The NICAS levels Young climbers can work towards fi ve levels of award. Foundation climber: an entry-level award aimed at complete novices that recognises their ability to climb safely under supervision (approx 3hrs). Top rope climber: a top-rope profi ciency award aimed at promoting best practice in climbing and bouldering on walls (approx 8 hours). Technical climber: a more advanced climbing and bouldering award that focuses on developing technique and movement skills (approx 20 hrs). Lead climber: an award that concentrates on the skills required to lead climb and lead belay profi ciently (approx 30 hrs). Advanced climber: the top level award that focuses on improving performance with a deeper understanding of the sport and the wider world of climbing (approx 50 hrs).

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 43

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sum44.indd 1 4/8/08 12:05:23 mountain walking

Snowshoeing has become the cool thing to do this winter – and it’s not just for strolling around forests. Hilary Sharp reckons it’s the perfect way to bag some alpine summits.

nowshoeing has been popular in and more young (well, in their heads at Summit 1: the Alps for years – mainly with least) and fi t walkers are rejecting the Croix de la Tête Noire Speople who don’t ski, aren’t too fi t organised limits of skiing and stepping The ‘Black Head’ isn’t the most inspiring and tend to traipse around forests out into the snow. name for a summit but don’t let that put before heading off for a large lunch. With a bit of imagination you can you off. Situated in the foothills of the But in recent years that’s all changed even go and tackle some real summits. Aravis range to the west of the Mont and or raquette tracks are But with many alpine peaks requiring Blanc massif, this small pimple of a top is popping up in increasingly technical climbing, what constitutes a a real classic winter-walk. The real bonus surprising places. viable ‘snowshoe summit’? A summit is that it’s never threatened by any should be a top, a high point above the avalanche slopes, so can be done The forests have been abandoned as treeline, from where you get a great whatever the weather – as long as you can people realise that snowshoeing is in view and feel like you’re on top of the get to the car park: the snow clearance of fact winter walking – limited in scope world. They may be very minor this road is well down the list of priorities only by your fi tness and the weather. highpoints in summer, but in winter for the small town of Cordon. With the development of technical all this changes and such summits This ski-resort town enjoys fabulous snowshoes – driven by the explosion become fi ne objectives in themselves. views of Mont Blanc, and the powers- in off-piste snowboarding – They give great views, interesting that-be in Cordon have designated snowshoers can now head high into terrain and you’re almost guaranteed several snowshoe trails – sentiers de the mountains. Consequently more that no-one else will be there. And, as raquettes – waymarked with red the season progresses and the days get arrows. Our walk begins on one of longer, so higher and more demanding these trails then carries on up the peaks become feasible. Tempted? Here hillside. From the car park at Perret, the are a couple to get you going. Tête Noire is signposted.

Enjoying the silence of the mountains by snowshoe - en-route to Mont Rogneux in the early morning. Photo: Hilary Sharp.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 45

45-47 snowshoeing.indd 45 4/8/08 11:26:23 mountain walking

The ascent of Mont Rogneux. Photo: Hilary Sharp.

Embracing the descent! Photo: Hilary Sharp. Nearly there! Photo: Hilary Sharp. A good track leads up in forest, soon the Tête du Grepon, to the bridge at Pont getting the heart going. Several chalets de la Flée. Two cars would be an are passed and emerging from the trees advantage for, otherwise returning by the the views open up. To the right the same route gives some great slopes for peaks of the Aravis can be seen, notably running down. the Quatre Têtes with its characteristic four rocky bastions and the pointed WALK DETAILS: Pointe Percée (2,750m) – the highest Start: Perrey parking above Cordon. peak in this range. Map: IGN Top 25 3430 ET Above, a cross is visible on top of a Grand Bornand wooded hill –our objective. Many people walk up this way but it seems most don’t Summit 2: take in the summit, so you’ll probably Mont Rogneux have to make your own tracks. Although Later in the season the lower slopes start only 1,891m high, this summit is a real to lose their snow; nights in huts and lofty The Vallée de l’ seen from high up on the one with a cross on top and the views summits call. Mont Rogneux (3,084m) is slopes of the Croix de la Tête Noire. along the Arve valley and up to the Mont one of the most popular peaks for ski- Photo: Hilary Sharp. Blanc massif are breathtaking. touring in the Val de Bagnes region of For further visual delights a walk along Switzerland, near to the renowned ski the whaleback ridge to the tiny Cabane resort of Verbier. Many skiers see this du Petit Patré will not disappoint. Ahead summit as a test of their endurance, is the imposing summit of Croise Baulet, preferring to do the 1,700m ascent in a itself a demanding snowshoeing peak but day rather than staying at the Cabane usually from the other side. Those with Brunet hut en-route. However, on lots of energy might be tempted by the snowshoes Mont Rogneux is a huge circuit descending to the Col de Niard, endurance test if done in a day, it’s far then down under the sometimes more pleasant to spend a night at the hut. avalanche prone slopes of La Miaz and There is almost always a track to the

46 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

45-47 snowshoeing.indd 46 4/8/08 11:26:56 mountain walking Great views across the Val de Bagnes during the ascent of Mont Rogneux. Photo: Hilary Sharp. SNOWSHOEING: ESSENTIAL INFO

SNOWSHOES Snowshoeing is still relatively unknown in the UK. But there’s actually a lot of equipment choice these days. For a long time snowshoeing suffered from the mistaken notion that it’s walking with tennis rackets on your feet. But the explosion in snowboarding has had a knock-on effect for snowshoeing: boarders use snowshoes to tour in the mountains. Suddenly snowshoes are cool and there are constant new developments. Look for a snowshoe that’s the right size for your weight and your feet. Check that it has good traction underneath and a freeze-proof binding that you’ll be able to manipulate with cold hands.

POLES You cannot snowshoe effi ciently without poles. They don’t need to be telescopic, regular ski poles will do, but they do need to have snow baskets.

BOOTS A comfortable leather boot is all that’s needed. It doesn’t have to be particularly stiff, but a good sole is essential as you may have to walk without snowshoes when the terrain dictates. You may also want to carry crampons for more technical ground.

SACK summit and usually not too much fresh do have their limits – making trail can be At some stage you will probably have to carry your snow to play with – or so I thought until a demanding workout. We made our way snowshoes, either to the trailhead or during a walk. It’s a recent visit. On our visit the ascent to slowly up the initial shady slopes; the much easier if you’ve sorted out a way of attaching the the hut was in improving weather, the small, stunted bushes at this altitude were shoes to your sack before you go. Side straps are the best valleys shrouded in residual clouds, the coated in snow and ice. Around us the option, although shoes can be held in place under the rucksack lid. Some snowboarding sacks can be used for trees weighted with heavy snow and fi rst rays of sun kissed the mountain tops. snowshoes. There are also a few companies making sacks ice. In the shady parts of the forest there It was a magical morning, spoiled only by specifi cally for snowshoeing. were crystals forming on the spruce the sound of our laboured breathing. needles, creating natural Christmas- The snowy dome of the Petit Combin SAFETY EQUIPMENT tree baubles. And, as the sun fi ltered dominated our views to the left. Behind By its very nature snow can be dangerous; zero risk in the through the dense branches, we us were all the Val de Bagnes peaks – mountains does not exist. You must be equipped with an relished the anticipation of the next Mont Rogneux remains hidden until the avalanche beacon, shovel and probe as well as regular day’s climb. fi nal slopes. walking gear for cold weather. It’s crucial to have practised The Cabane Brunet is a traditional The old ski-tourers in the hut may have using the avalanche beacon before setting out. Swiss hut with its own rules and let us down on the trail breaking, but we customs; once you get those sorted it’s a fi nally spotted fi gures below and a couple TOP TIPS FOR SNOWSHOEING • Don’t confuse snowshoeing with skiing; sliding is not great place to stay. Dinner is taken very of athletic Swiss soon tore past us, kitted necessary early – after that you either go to bed or out in lycra tights and the lightest of skis. • In fresh snow try running down – this is by far the most try out the local specialities. Our fellow It was clear they were on a mission. We’d effi cient way to descend and is great fun. guests chose the latter: this group of done our share of trail making and could • Know how to navigate in white-out conditions or go with male retirees from Geneva had each now relax, even if their tracks didn’t quite a guided group brought their own bottle. We were soon fi t the size of our snowshoes. • Learn to use your avalanche transceiver and practice brought into the party. Cresting the fi nal col, Mont Rogneux every trip The next day was discussed. There is can be seen not far away. The fi nal slopes • Be aware of the time and turn back if it's running out only one real destination from the hut – are steep and can either be avalanche • Go prepared – don't stint on extra clothes, food and drink • The best place to snowshoe is away from the ski areas, Mont Rogneux. We’d all noticed that prone or icy depending on conditions. On away from the groomed walking trails, in deep snow. there was no sign of any track in the fresh this day the skiers chose not to go to the Never snowshoe on cross-country ski pistes. snow surrounding the hut. The map summit, so we tentatively made our way • Let loose and enjoy! provides little help with fi nding the route up the last part of the climb, ploughing to the top of Mont Rogneux –even when through wind-blown drifts. The views BOOKS you know the way it’s easier to describe it from the top made it all worthwhile: Snowshoeing: Mont Blanc and the Western Alps by than to locate on the map. It’s also quite a Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and the Hilary Sharp long way and in deep fresh snow making Combin peaks – it’s all on show. Published by Cicerone Press. the trail can be very tiring. Needless to say the old boys didn’t surface the next WALK DETAILS: GUIDES Hilary Sharp offers group and private snowshoe guiding in morning; we were on our own. Start: above Lourtier, direction Fionnay. the French, Swiss and Italian Alps from December to April. The snow was up to our knees. Map: Carte Nationale de la Suisse Contact her at www.trekkinginthealps.com / Snowshoes make it possible to walk 5003 Mont Blanc Grand Combin info@trekkinginthealps / 0033 450546209. where you otherwise couldn’t, but they Hut: Cabane Brunet ■

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45-47 snowshoeing.indd 47 4/8/08 11:27:30 environment Carbon

Copyuring our two-week reluctantly decided that I was going to climbing trip to Devon and have to re-join the ranks of car users to D Cornwall we managed to get some decent climbing time in. stump most climbers with one simple Yet after considering the cost of a car, I question: “How do you get to the started wondering if this was really the climbing here on public transport?” way forward. I was buying a car so I could get out of the smog and drive “Um, I can look up buses on the around polluting the countryside, not to internet,” was about as good as the mention contribute handsomely to replies got. Most people just fobbed us climate change. It didn’t seem quite off with tales of dreaded rural bus routes, right. So my climbing buddy Julie and I operating once a week for pensioners on decided to bite the bullet and see if it a giro mission. really was feasible to be car-less climber Climbing trips are synonymous with in the UK. car use; we climbers are not renowned We did two five-day climbing trips, for our love of walking. With heavy kit one using a car (a tiny Daihatsu mini- Are you ready for public transport? to lug around and temperamental campervan, which Julie called “the Photo: BMC. weather, we want the freedom to jump lunchbox on wheels”) and one using Are soaring fuel prices and the threat in and out of our nice comfy vehicles, public transport. We wanted to know if drive to a drier spot, or maybe stop taking trains and buses to climb would of global warming enough to tempt early at the pub. Car culture makes be as difficult as we had expected, and climbers out of their cars? Zara Maung perfect sense to climbers. It’s second by calculating the carbon emissions of and Julie Black decide it’s time to try nature to slide behind the wheel to get our journeys, we intended to find out to our weekend climbing destinations – how much good we would really do the some low-carbon climbing. especially if we already rely on cars for planet by leaving the car at home. travelling to work. Zara Maung and Benjamin Bonnerjea But there’s no denying that car contemplate the bus schedule. The car trip Photo: Julie Black. culture is changing. The average person We set off in the campervan with the now living in has no good promise of dismal weather for the week reason for owning a car: public ahead, but being on wheels we had transport, expensive parking and everything but the kitchen sink with us congestion charges abound. I switched – including two surfboards and a to a bicycle six months ago, persuading bouldering mat! The plan was to drive myself that it’d be cheaper and more down to Cornwall doing some climbing practical. It was. It was also disastrous along the way in Dartmoor. This proved for my climbing. harder than we imagined as we spent Used to watching the weather and most of our time dodging the rain and arranging last-minute trips away, trying to find quick-drying crags, often going climbing suddenly became hard driving long distances. Sheepstor at work. I kept missing the monthly Dartmoor gave us a day’s climbing, so climbing club trips for one reason or did Roche Rock in Bodmin. Wet, grassy another and briefly scanning the train death-slopes to access the North prices, everything looked too Cornwall sea cliffs didn’t really work for expensive. Even trying to scrounge us and we wasted a few miles driving to lifts off mates gets tiring after a while. sea cliffs and back again. We set up So, approaching the summer, I camp in a friendly youth hostel in Bude

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48-50 Carbon Climbing.indd 48 8/8/08 10:32:08 environment

Zara Maung stuck into some Cornish granite. to escape the foul weather, clocking up ethos of trad climbing much better than Photo: Benjamin Bonnerjea. more wasted miles driving to and from tearing around in a van. We both agreed crags and surfi ng beaches. There was no that being stranded in the middle of evidence of local climbers using public nowhere along a rural bus route with transport to get around, and plenty of only our climbing kit felt extraordinarily Dartmoor climbers’ tales about liberating and far more adventurous; the infamous once-a-week granny buses. trips to and from climbing sometimes rivalled the intrigue of the climbs. Our route: London-Dartmoor-Bude- Pentire-Bodmin-St Ives-London. Our route: London-St Ives-Zennor- For: Could drive anywhere, always Wicca Pillar-Bosigran-Sennen-Chair found climbing (when dry). Ladder-St Ives-London. Against: Tiring drive to Cornwall, For: Being stranded – the transport temptation to drive long distances to equivalent to switching off your mobile. get to the best crags. Roadkill. Against: No such thing as an early start, or a quick bus journey. Great The bus trip for sleeping in, not great for visiting We realised that this week would require tidal cliffs. Might not be as enjoyable Copy military planning when we saw that the in the wet! buses along our chosen route only ran every few hours between 10am and 6pm Tight shoes, big footprint – not that great for climbing into the To our surprise, climbing by public summer evenings! However the week transport is not only feasible, it was rather was surprisingly easy, as we found that enjoyable. Regardless, it’s undeniable that one bus route – the magnifi cent 300 – it’s something that more of us should be served all the classic climbing doing. When The Carbon Trust published destinations along the coast, moving ‘The Footprint of the UK’ in December southwards from St Ives to Chair Ladder. 2006, it revealed that our leisure activities A far cry from the disparate climbing release more carbon than any other area destinations we visited in North of our lives, including emissions from Cornwall. The open-topped tourist bus domestic heating. Nearly a fi fth of the travelled at about a 10-20 mph on average British citizen’s 10.92 tons of average, perfect for scenic views. Despite annual CO2 emissions – 1.95 tons – is the useful route taken and the popularity emitted through recreation. Perhaps even of the climbs, we didn’t spot a single more for regular outdoor climbers other climber on the bus – they’d all traveling long distances. taken their cars to Bosigran. We’re already seeing the effects of Luckily the weather held up for the global warming in the UK. Our sea whole week. Unluckily, not being the temperatures have risen, Scottish most effi cient of climbers, timekeeping snow-beds are disappearing became a bit of a problem. On the and some of our bird, second day, after the eight pitches of butterfl y and Commando Ridge at Bosigran, we’d plant species missed the last bus by two hours and are moving to ended up hitching back to our hostel in cooler climes nearby Zennor. The walk-ins were or disappearing longer, but felt quite satisfying and a altogether. Via good pre-climbing warm up. our carbon The most surprising part about using emissions, we’re the bus was that it seemed to fi t the contributing to

Julie Black gets to grips with the bus. Photo: Benjamin Bonnerjea.

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48-50 Carbon Climbing.indd 49 8/8/08 10:32:41 environment

the destruction of our own sport in the that those buses and trains would be and the Peak District. David Gibson also UK. Rising sea levels could threaten sea travelling anyway, and the fuller they sings the praises of the Scottish train cliff routes, and according to the become, the lower the emissions per routes, including the West Highland line, SportScotland Avalanche Information person are, but the message is clear – if which he says stops at a number of Service, a gradual change in the direction you must take a car, fi ll it. We quality mountaineering destinations. of recorded snow-bearing winds in recommend fl agging up climbing trips CityLink buses also drive through Glen Scottish winters means snow now tends on the ‘lifts and partners’ forum at Coe and Fort William on their way to to blow onto the south face of Scotland’s www.ukclimbing.com. If everyone going Skye. If the train journey from home to mountains, rather than into the north- on a climbing trip with a half-empty car your climbing destination is too facing corries used by winter climbers. offered or sought a lift on the climbing expensive, coaches offer cheaper options. This may be linked to the North Atlantic website we’d start up an instant UK- Perhaps the BMC should add detailed drift slowing down. wide climbing transport system! public transport information to its The ultimate car share is to jump into Regional Access Database too? The Low carbon climbing the minibus of your local climbing club. BMC’s environmental focus should be on If you want to lower your climbing In fact, David Gibson of the lowering climbers’ transport emissions carbon footprint then you’ve got a Mountaineering Council of Scotland just as much as nature conservation. number of options – it’s not simply about thinks there may well be a climbing club After all, there’ll be no more native ditching your car. We calculated our renaissance spurred by rising fuel prices: plants and birds to conserve once global carbon emissions using the online YETI “Some of these clubs are a hundred years warming has had its way! ■ transport carbon calculator, which is very old,” he reminded us, “and they were easy to use. It uses offi cial UK started partly as a means of sharing Zara Maung is a climate reporter and government transport carbon fi gures, transport back when cars were scarce.” has begun editing Ecoclimber.com, a and we made some interesting Climbing by public transport is new website for climbers and outdoor discoveries using it. It turns out that four certainly possible, and recommended. sports people concerned about climate people sharing a car is actually less Bus links around the UK aren’t actually change. Julie Black is a conservation carbon intensive per person than four that bad, but a bit of planning will go a scientist who has just completed her people on the train, and three people long way – get the timetables beforehand doctoral thesis. Her research interests sharing a car beat the emissions per so there are no unexpected surprises. can be viewed at www.iccs.org.uk. person of bus travel. You’re likely to fi nd better bus links in Thanks go to DMM, who supported the In reality you need to bear in mind popular destinations like North Wales trip by contributing climbing hardware.

More information Carbon Trust Report www.carbontrust.co.uk YETI Carbon Calculator www.smarterchoices.co.uk/TryYeti.aspx Stanage Bus Timetable www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/stanagebus.pdf Bus 300 timetable www.cornwallpublictransport.info/pdf_tts/300.pdf If all else fails - hitch. Photo: Benjamin Bonnerjea. Carbon calculations We set out to measure the trips in four practical ways: how stressful we found them, how long journeys took, the costs and the carbon emissions. Trip Car Bus Train Plane Kilometres 1,661 1,661 Carbon emissions (kg per person) 171.92 171.92 147.83 249.15 Week 1 Cost (£’s per person) 82 82 (petrol) 65 * 104* (London - North Cornwall by car) Time travelling (hours) 28 28 Time waiting (hours) 0 0 Stress (1 to 10, 10 being most stressed) 7 7 Kilometres 870 870 Carbon emissions (kg per person) 54.23 77.43 54.23* Week 2 Cost (£’s per person) 99.50 60.50* 99.50* (London - Southwest Cornwall by train and bus) Time travelling (hours) 14.75 20.75* 14.75* Time waiting (hours) 2 2 Stress (1 to 10, 10 being most stressed) 4 4 * includes travel to Cornwall, plus local bus travel (week 1: all inclusive bus ticket £29, week 2: individual fares totalling £24.50)

50 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

48-50 Carbon Climbing.indd 50 6/8/08 14:33:26

Wales column Wales colofn cymru

What price? Am pa bris?

ow important is Wales to the hill walker a mor bwysig yw Cymru i’r dringwr a’r cerddwr and climber? And how important is the mynydd? A pha mor bwysig yw’r dringwr a’r H hillwalker and climber to Wales? P cerddwr mynydd i Gymru? These may seem like simple questions, but did you know Gall y rhain ymddangos fel cwestiynau syml, ond a wyddoch chi that the BMC receives no funding from the Welsh Assembly nad yw’r CMP (BMC) yn derbyn unrhyw arian gan Lywodraeth Government? We were recently told by the Sports Council y Cynulliad? Dywedodd Cyngor Chwaraeon Cymru wrthym yn for Wales that “Mountaineering is not a priority sport in ddiweddar nad ydi “mynydda fel gweithgaredd yn fl aenoriaeth Wales”. Try telling that to the attendees on the recent BMC yng Nghymru”. Ceisiwch ddweud hynny wrth y rhai a fynychodd International Meet at Plas y Brenin, or visit Pembroke and tell Cyfarfod y CMP Rhyngwladol ym Mhlas y Brenin, neu ewch i me that the climbing there isn’t world class. And, as for hill ddringo i Sir Benfro a dywedwch wrtha i nad yw hynny’n brofi ad walking, Wales offers as fantastic and varied an area as you’re a hanner. I gerdded mynydd mae Cymru yn cynnig ardal wych ac likely to fi nd anywhere in the world. amrywiol i’w gymharu ag unrhyw le arall yn y byd. Wales is a much more independent place these days, it Erbyn heddiw, mae Cymru yn wlad llawer mwy annibynnol, has its own legislative body and the list of working groups, gyda chorfforaeth ddeddfwriaethol ei hun a rhestrau faith o committees and advisory groups which BMC Access Offi cers weithgorau, pwyllgorau a grwpiau cynghori lle bydd Swyddogion like Cath Flitcroft attend is very long indeed. When I lived Mynediad y CMP fel Cath Flitcroft yn mynychu. Pan fu’m i’n here in the ‘eighties, local people were shy about using their byw yma yn yr wythdegau, roedd gan y bobl leol ofn defnyddio language in public, now it’s spoken with pride. I attend the eu hiaith yn gyhoeddus, ond erbyn heddiw siaredir yr iaith â Northern Snowdonia Access Forum meetings four-times a balchder. Rwyf yn mynychu cyfarfodydd Fforwm Mynediad Eryri year and they are bi-lingual meetings with simultaneous pedair gwaith y fl wyddyn ac maent yn gyfarfodydd dwyieithog translation. gyda chyfi eithu ar y pryd. So what price a BMC Wales offi cer? Someone to draw in Felly, beth yw’r pris o gael Swyddog CMP i Gymru? Rhywun i funding from the WAG; someone to raise the BMC profi le atynnu cronfa ariannol gan Lywodraeth y Cynulliad; i hyrwyddo with the Welsh-speaking councils of Gwynedd and Anglesey; proffi l CMP gyda’r cynghorwyr sy’n siarad Cymraeg yng someone to pull together the work of BMC volunteers in the Ngwynedd a Môn; i gydlynu gwaith gwirfoddolwyr CMP yn south and the north; someone to support Welsh initiatives, y De a’r Gogledd ynghyd; i gefnogi mentrau Cymraeg megis y such as the outdoor partnership which is introducing bartneriaeth awyr agored sy’n cyfl wyno cannoedd o bobl leol hundreds of local people across Wales to the outdoor life. ar draws Cymru i fywyd awyr agored. Ac i rywun ddweud wrth Someone to tell the Welsh Sports Council that Wales is Gyngor Chwaraeon Cymru fod Cymru yn un o’r llefydd pwysicaf actually one of the most important places in the world for yn y byd ar gyfer mynydda. mountaineering. Ar nodyn wahanol, dwi’n siwr fydd dringwyr yn hynod o On a slightly different note, climbers will be disappointed siomedig o weld bod Caffi Eric yn Nhremadog ar werth. Er nad oes to see Eric’s Café at Tremadog for sale. Whilst Eric shows no modd gweld Eric yn arafu – mae’n dal i ddringo a gwneud neidiau sign of slowing down – still climbing and in his yn ei saithdegau - mae ganddo bob hawl i ymddeol. Rydym yn seventies – he is entitled to take retirement. We thank him diolch yn fawr iddo am ein cefnogi am gymaint o amser. Beth fydd for supporting us for so long. What will happen to the café? yn digwydd i’r caffi ? A fydd croeso i ni yno? A fyddem yn gallu Will we still be welcome? Will we still be able to park there to parcio yno er mwyn mynd i ddringo? Diolch yn fawr i Eric ac Ann climb? Thanks to Eric and Ann it’s a special place and many of - dyma le arbennig ac mae gan lawer ohonom atgofi on melys o us have fond memories of days spent here. But how important dreulio dyddiau yno. Ond pa mor bwysig yw’r caffi i ni? A ddylem is it to us? Should we buy it and make an offi ce for the BMC ni drio ei brynu a’i wneud yn swyddfa ar gyfer Swyddog CMP Wales offi cer here? What about our senior clubs chipping in Cymru? Beth am gyfraniad gan y prif clybiau - a fyddai diddordeb – would the Climbers’ Club be interested? Could the Alpine gan Glwb y Dringwyr? Fyddai modd i lyfrgell y Clwb Alpine fod Club library be here? What do we value? Who knows? ■ yma? Beth ydym ni’n ei wethfawrogi? Pwy a �yr? ■

Mike Raine Mike Raine BMC Wales Area Ardal CMP Cymru

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51 Wales.indd 2 5/8/08 15:35:29 Home Improvement (climbA4plus) 19/3/08 10:01 Page 1

Don’t waste your time on home improvement.

Sure you can simply go cragging and, in time, you will get better. But can list a catalogue of international expeditions, ground-breaking if you want to improve your climbing rapidly, there's no better way first ascents, new routes, epic journeys and impressive summits. than to get some professional coaching. All of which goes to enrich their coaching skills, leading to a much At Plas y Brenin our instructors are not only highly skilled, more interesting, rewarding learning experience for you. accomplished and experienced climbers, they’re expert coaches too. But the most important quality our staff possess is their They know exactly how to help you achieve your maximum potential enthusiasm. It is truly infectious. And after a few days with them as a climber. you’re sure to take away some of that passion which will leave you Whether you’ve reached a plateau in your development or you’re eager to climb harder than ever before. simply ready to move up a grade and improve your technique, our So if you’re looking for a way to improve your rock climbing don’t coaches will help you see and feel improvement - fast. waste another minute, come to Plas y Brenin. What’s more, after a week or a weekend with our coaches you’ll For a free 60-page colour brochure telephone us on 01690 720214, enjoy your climbing more as they’ll leave you with a clear picture of e-mail [email protected] or visit our website at www.pyb.co.uk how to continue that development under your own steam. Our staff are amongst the most experienced, highly qualified and enthusiastic in the country. Not only can we boast as many as eleven qualified International Mountain Guides (more than anywhere else in the UK) and over thirty full-time qualified Mountaineering Instructors, but our instructional team includes climbers with an enviable wealth of experience. Between them they

Plas y Brenin Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 OET Tel: 01690 720214 Fax: 01690 720394 www.pyb.co.uk Email: [email protected]

Plas Y Brenin.indd 1 4/8/08 12:07:03 performance Energy Crisis Running out of steam? Adrian Berry is here to cut your energy bill.

’m always impressed by how significantly altering your balance, much strength even self-declared avoiding putting the strain onto your I‘weak climbers’ have, but upper body. Using small footholds will frequently find myself wincing at how also mean that you’ll be able to climb in much of that strength is wasted. smaller steps, which has the same benefit as keeping your feet in-line. Reducing the amount of strength you use on each move of a climb, even by just When you really have a very small amount, can mean the to bridge difference between success and failure. Admittedly, there are many instances It’s time for an energy audit. where bridging is the only way, but using the following techniques will go a A bridge too far long way to reducing the strain on your King of energy sapping mal-techniques is upper body: the bridge. I can vividly remember seeing Hip movement. When bridging your a photo in a ‘how-to’ book illustrating weight is distributed evenly between bridging. The climber was well-attired both feet –when you go to move one of with PA’s, an orange helmet your feet, your upper body has to take and some breeches, and firmly bridged the strain. But when your feet are next to out on an eighty-degree wall. If a sudden each other, you can transfer all your fierce gust of wind were to strike, he’d be weight evenly and completely un-weight in just the right posture, but the problem the foot you are moving. This does comes when you need to move. By require a slight movement of the hips, bridging out with your feet you cannot but it’s so subtle you hardly know you’re move either foot without moving from a doing it. In a wider bridging position, you balanced position to an unbalanced can achieve the same result by bending position – the onus is placed on your your legs and moving your hips so that hands to take the strain momentarily they are directly above the foot you are until you have placed your foot on the not moving, un-weighting the other foot next hold. The wider your feet are so that you can move it effortlessly to the bridged, the more strain your upper body next foothold. takes when you move between footholds. Dynamic hip movement. If you find The solution is simple: where possible, yourself in a position where your feet are keep your feet directly below your hips. bridged too wide to allow you to move your hips over one of your feet, then you Trust those feet will need to get a bit more dynamic. The One of the reasons that we tend to get reason moving out of a bridging position into a series of strenuous bridging is generally strenuous is because when positions is because the best footholds you’re bridging, your centre of gravity is are rarely in a straight line. But when above a point somewhere between your was the last time your feet got pumped? feet, when you move one of your feet off Get used to using smaller footholds: its foothold, your centre of gravity is no poor but adequate footholds take only a longer being supported, and it’s only little more strength to use than good your hand-holds that stop you from Katherine Schirrmacher on steep territory on a F6a in Geyikbayiri, Turkey. ones. By keeping your feet in-line you falling. But your centre of gravity is not Photo: Alex Messenger. can move either foot without fixed inside your body, you can shift it

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53-55 performance climbing.indd 53 5/8/08 15:36:35 performance

John Roberts seems to have got rather pumped at the top of Silver Shadow (E2 5b) Stackpole Head, Pembroke. Photo: Alex Messenger.

around quite easily. By generating down as an energy-saving technique is your knees in climbing was technically as sideways momentum with your hips you that it both relieves your fingers and low as you could go – that was probably can shift your centre of gravity places your arm below the level of your because everyone wore Lycra back then temporarily over one foot, allowing you heart – adding up to good recovery. and sticking your knees on holds caused to move the other before your centre of Generally you palm with your left hand dreadful ladders. The time when knees gravity inevitably returns to its original to move your left foot and vice-versa, but come in handy is when there is a hold position. This is best achieved by a sharp sometimes you’ll find you don’t want to roughly evenly spaced between your feet flicking motion. Naturally, you’ve got move your left hand to a palming position and your crotch. By dropping a knee onto limited time to execute the move, so you just to move your left foot. In this the hold you give yourself an extra point do need to be sure where your next situation, you can often palm with the of support that is more directly below foothold is. opposite hand simply by placing your your centre of gravity – allowing you to Palming and cross-palming. Most arm across your body. Cross-palming move a foot up. This of course can’t work climbers are familiar with palming, but also has the advantage of making you unless you happen to have some feature it’s a technique that could be used far look very professional! in the right place, but in the right situation more. The great thing about palming Knees. I was always taught that using it almost feels like cheating.

54 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

53-55 performance climbing.indd 54 5/8/08 15:38:12 performance

Energy saving hand positions Climbers quickly learn that open- handed positions can be held for much longer than closed handed positions (crimp and half-crimp), but it’s easy to forget this when you’re fresh, and often too late to start when you’re pumped. Practice relaxing your grip on each hold until it’s just enough to stay attached to it, and do this from the first moves off the ground. If you’ve just battled through a fingery sequence, you’ll naturally be holding on too hard even when the holds are big, tell yourself to relax and look to open-hand wherever possible. Good technique - it won’t take much energy to Palm with your hand to make things easier. move from this position. Photo: Adrian Berry. Photo: Adrian Berry. Thumbs If you ever injure your thumb, you’ll quickly realise how much work they do when you’re climbing, they can do a lot more than most climbers realise. You can add an extra digit to your crimps by wrapping your thumb over the first knuckle of your index finger. On many edge-holds you can place your thumb next to your fingers and greatly reduce the strain on your fingers, and you can rest your fingers by using a hold solely with your thumb.

Energy saving arm positions Our arms give out when the body is unable to remove lactic acid at the rate Bad technique! Very stable but moving out of Look stylish with some cross palming. at which it’s being produced, so this position will take lot of effort. Photo: Adrian Berry. keeping a good blood flow both in and Photo: Adrian Berry. out of your forearms is essential. Place your arms above the level of your heart this is very much down to the angle Pace and the blood is encouraged to flow you’re climbing. On slabby and The speed at which you climb is dictated out; place them below the level of your vertical rock, keeping your arms at by the difficulty. This seems universally heart and the blood is encouraged to around heart-level allows the blood to understood, but many climbers get it the flow in. It follows that if you can circulate easily. However, when wrong way around. The easy bits can be alternate arm positions above and things get steeper, the rules change. taken at a leisurely pace, the hard below your heart-level, you’ll clear the When your arms are working hard, sections are where you need to get into lactic acid out more quickly. This bending them at the elbow produces gear and keep going. When climbing alternation between positions is most two headaches: you’re using strength on-sight, accept a lower level of technical clearly seen when ‘shaking-out’. to keep the arm bent, and the perfection than normal: on easy ground Letting your arm dangle fills it with contracted muscles hinder the blood look to climb it at about 90% perfection, blood (mine takes about four seconds), supply to the forearms. When things but on the crux, settle for a quick attack but then briefly holding it up above get steep, switch to straight arms and at say 75% right. It’s better to get it a bit your head will clear it very quickly. You shake out frequently. wrong and keep going than to stop in a may have heard of this referred to as fiercely strenuous position to try to work the ‘G-Tox’ – the name given to it by Cycling it all out to perfection. ■ Eric Horst – and it’s certainly more When you do need to hold on one- effective than just ‘shaking-out’. handed –placing gear, clipping a bolt, Adrian Berry works as a professional or chalking-up – the pump really climbing coach, based in the Peak How angle affects sets in. Don’t let it happen – ‘cycle’ District. His books Sport Climbing+ and arm positions between holding on with one hand Trad Climbing+ are published by Rockfax Seeing as holding your arms above then the other. It’s better to have and are widely available. Further your head drains the blood, you’d two moderately pumped arms than information on Adrian Berry’s personal think that the best arm position would one fresh and the other completely coaching is available at www. be low, and necessarily, bent. In fact, useless. positiveclimbing.com.

www.thebmc.co.uk Summit - Autumn | 55

53-55 performance climbing.indd 55 5/8/08 15:38:31 The PyB Column

Mountaineering is sport for all. Sport for all Photo: Martin Chester.

hat’s a National Mountain yourself to blame. In the outdoor world, Currently we’re also offering some after- Centre for anyway? people seem to start early, grow up with their school climbing to a local primary school, and W I’ve been doing a lot of chosen sport, and continue to excel for many organising some mentoring by James McCaffi e running around recently – mainly because years. As a result, the National Mountain for a couple of local hotshots (14-years old and I’ve inadvertently signed up for the Snowdon Centre is full of people, all sorts of people, leading E6!). If a National Centre can’t help the Marathon again this year. One of my from eight to 80-years old – something that best climbers of the day develop the talent of favourite runs takes me round the lakes of just doesn’t happen in many other sports. tomorrow, then who can. There are other ways Llanberis and back through the slate quarries. Look at our brochure or website and you’ll of sharing our expertise too: website articles, I usually pass people enjoying all sorts of see a real diversity of courses. There’s top tips in the magazines, support for the BMC activities: paddling on the lake, walking up something for everyone: beginners, experts lecture series, committee representation, Snowdon and climbing at Dali’s hole. A wide and outdoor professionals. It’s not all about supporting local initiatives and this fl edgling selection of outdoor life, just like we aim to elite performance, or even qualifi cations, but a Summit page. represent at Plas y Brenin. shared passion. The needs of beginner and So, over the next few issues we’re going to What is a National Centre for anyway? I expert are quite different, but we all have much get the best people we can muster to talk vividly remember my fi rst visit to Crystal to learn – our sports have a fascinating blend of about their preparation for doing ‘their thing’. Palace as a kid; being in awe of a place where risk, strategy and technicality. That’s why we Look out for Andy Turner writing about his special things happened and people pushed offer a range of courses in every discipline – preparation for winter, James McCaffi e on the limits. I remember the amazing facilities, from fi rst steps to elite performance. how to get strong for Spring, Tim Neill on the where austere coaches bred an atmosphere The concept that outdoor centres are only Alps and Stu McAleese on expedition of high performance, and the smell of pride for novices or groups of kids couldn’t be more climbing. I’d like to think that there will be in the air. wrong either; all levels are regarded with something for everyone – but let us know. But what is a National Mountain centre for? equal importance and passion. I mean, just Or next time you drive past the building, Plas y Brenin has always been a bit of an odd- imagine being coached in climbing by the come in – for the wall, for the bar, for a one-out alongside the other centres owned by leading climbers of the day, could there be a weather forecast or just for the crack of it – it Sport England. And, as sport again takes a U- better way to push yourself? Nor is it just is your centre after all. ■ turn from health to elite performance – with students who get to benefi t from the buzz of the Olympics on the horizon – we have to the place. The National Mountain Centre is Martin Chester, wonder where our non-medal winning an important resource of expertise, top Chief Instructor, Plas y Brenin activities fi t in. performers and coaches share knowledge We may not be able to bring home gold, but across all levels, all disciplines and even other Plas y Brenin is the National Mountain Centre our sports are undoubtedly good for you. In a sports. You can’t help but be inspired. based in Capel Curig, Snowdonia. They risk-averse society, there is also a refreshing Rowland Edwards recently observed an MIA offer a range of courses on all aspects of need to get your head around doing training course, and was delighted to fi nd the walking, climbing and mountaineering. something that might hurt – with no-one but place still “had that buzz” about it. See www.pyb.co.uk for details.

56 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

56 Plas y brenin.indd 56 5/8/08 15:53:25 139F BMC Maps Ad - Summit 28/07/2008 13:43 Page 1

NEW Yorkshire Dales map available 1:40000 Nov ’08 Please send me the Mountain Maps Lake District Ben Nevis Peak District Snowdonia Be among the first to own Cairngorms these great new maps 1:40000 scale Map at £10.95 (+£1 P&P) each I enclose a cheque for £ • Britain’s most famous mountain areas, each on a single map payable to British Mountaineering Council. • Printed on plastic – durable, tear-resistant and 100% waterproof • Colour shading for easy identification of hills and valleys Or, alternatively please debit my Mastercard/Visa/Maestro account, • Detailed crag information for climbers Card N°:

• Less than half the weight of a laminated map Expires: Issue N° ( Maestro cards only) • Detailed 1:20 000 enlargements of prominent favourite mountains and crags • Geological map of each area Name: ...... • Mountain incident and first aid advice Address: ...... • Tips on using your map and compass ...... • Useful local phone numbers and websites ...... Postcode: ...... Signature: ...... “The best maps I have ever seen. The 1:40 000 scale provides clear, detailed information to the most popular mountain areas in Britain.” BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL FREEPOST NAT 11244, Manchester M20 7ZA 0161 445 6111 Sir Chris Bonington F: 0161 445 4500 E: offi[email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk

sum57.indd 1 5/8/08 10:57:51 noticeboard Area noticeboardnoticeboard Martin Kocsis has the lowdown on what’s happening in your area.

Cymru/Wales Peak North: The Marine Drive bolt inspections are progressing well: The team’s next meeting is at The Crown, Glossop on the 3rd over half the popular climbs have been inspected and the September. The Horseshoe Upkeep Group (motto: ‘Every crag team aim to fi nish by the end of the year. Re-equipping Lower needs HUG’) will be up and running by the time you read this, and Pen Trywn will start “soon” – contact the North Wales Bolt will have achieved Good Things. The recent Peak District fi xed gear Fund via V12 in Llanberis to get involved. The next gathering debate will also have had some knock-on effects by the time you will be on September 2nd at The Vaynol at 8pm. read this, and there may be ‘safe’ new pegs and threads appearing South: The South Wales team have had clean-ups at all over the region. Moorland grit, Shooter’s Nab and bolts on grit will Llanbradach and Mountain Ash in recent months, and a all be under the spotlight. South Wales Bolt Fund is emerging. A bolting workshop in mid-July helped galvanize participation, and everyone hopes South West that the south of the country will follow the north’s lead. Next There are a host of events to tickle your tastebuds if you live west south Wales meeting tbc. of Brizzle. By the time you read this, information should be in the public domain concerning restorations at the mighty Dewerstone Lakes with Mat Johnson, the sunny seaside Meadfoot Quarry with Tom The Lakes Festival of Climbing was a great success, Hughes and the much loved Chudleigh with Ben Hall and Mark thanks to all who came along. If you want to get involved Glaister. There is also a confi rmed rumour that suggests that the with the Lakes Bolt Fund, contact the fund through next area meeting will be on the Culm Coast near Welcome over the weekend of the 5- Dan Middleton at the BMC, and if you want to subscribe to 7th September. Sharpnose, Vicarage Cliff and Gull Rock are some of the nearby delights. the Lakes Newsletter email [email protected]. The next area meeting will be in early October, keep an eye out for details. Yorkshire New venue, new ideas! Meeting in Ilkley means that getting a few sneaky routes in London & South East beforehand is likely. There has been plenty of new route activity on Yorkshire limestone The London team are keen to get local clubs involved. With the recent in recent months, but access problems are looming at Foredale Quarry. The fi rst establishment of the BMC Clubs Forum, ‘club issues’ are more prominent than ever. Yorkshire newsletter was a success, and the team are looking for help to produce the The next area meeting will be in Central London on Tuesday 9th September. next one from anyone who has a bit of design know-how! The next meeting is at the Ilkley Moor Vaults on the 8th September. Midlands Guidebook work continues with photo-sessions and crag clean-ups planned for the summer – contact [email protected] to help out. Also bubbling under is a local bolt fund to make sense of the occasionally haphazard and illogical bolting in the region. Under the expert eye of Iain McKenzie, the Midlands newsletter is going from strength-to-strength with excellent articles and photography. The next area meeting is in Solihull on Thursday 4th September at 7.30pm.

North West The current debates in the area concern fi xed gear, bolted lower-offs and crag restoration. The next meeting will concentrate on a proposal to retro-bolt Lester Mill Quarry, a rarely-used crag being reclaimed by nature. The debate will inevitably lead on to suggestions about setting up a North West Bolt Fund, and the replacement of all fi xed gear in the area. Should be a pretty low key meeting then! Make a date for Monday September 15th, at 8pm at the Belmont Bull (in Belmont, surprisingly enough).

58 | Summit - Autumn wwwwww.thebmc.co.uk/your.thebmc.co.uk/yourbmcbmc

58 area noticeboard.indd 58 5/8/08 15:54:56 Colin Struthers is the new Big Cheese of the BMC’s Fight resurgent North West area. No stranger to having an opinion, he’s been ‘local’ Gravity for longer than Martin Kocsis has been alive. your Undeterred, Martin caught not up with him in Hoghton Quarry for a chat over a large piece of cake. Pack

You’ve hit the ground running – what do you hope to achieve in your time as Big Cheese? It may not sound ambitious, but I’d be pleased if people feel that I do the job of Chairman properly. That is, allowing effi cient discussions where everyone has a chance to have their say – provided they don’t drone on and on.

There are some bolted lower-offs above Jimmy Nip at Wilton one. Know anything about these? Maybe. Can I have some new resin bolts please?

“The North West is a climbing backwater.” Discuss I think this was true a few years ago, but lately we’re seeing more and more people getting out on their local crags, hardly surprising given the price of petrol). It’s great that so many have been willing to put time into cleaning places like Egerton, Angelzarke and Hoghton too.

Why bother to get involved with the BMC? It’s the only show in town if you give a toss about climbing in our area and want to see the crags preserved and developed. Mutant There’s a strange mix of pegs, bolts and trad in the quarries. What’s your view? 38 It’s good that this is a live debate. For me trad climbing remains the ‘gold standard’ of our sport but I’m not unsympathetic to people who want to see some sport routes developed on quarried grit. ��������� ������������������������� What’s your claim to fame? �������������������������� You can see my rucksack on the ground in the lower left-corner ���������������� of the famous poster of Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall.

If you could have a super-power for a week, what would it be? I’d wave a magic wand and year-round access at Hoghton would be restored.

Read any good books lately? Usually I just look at the pictures, but I did fi nd Robert Macfarlane’s ‘Mountains of the Mind’ fascinating. ������������������������������������������ Chocolate fl apjack, cream horn or fruit slice? ��������������� Obviously I like to get the horn. ��������������������������������������� (We’ve not heard that one before. Note to self: change the ����������������������� question - MK) ■

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Osprey Europe.indd 1 4/8/08 12:11:38 59 OTG.indd 59 6/8/08 14:35:14 competitions

Dave Barrans powering his way to third place at the BBC. Photo: Alex Messenger.

Competitions 2008 was a great summer for British competition climbing, and some unexpected results shook up the podium line-ups. Tony Ryan takes a look at what’s gone down – and what’s in store for the winter.

British BMC Youth Climbing British Bouldering Championships Championships Series National Final Last, but by no means least, was the British First off was the British Lead Climbing Next was the BMC Youth Climbing Bouldering Championships – the main attraction of Championships, taking place at the spectacular Series Final. A record number of almost the Cliffhanger outdoor festival in Sheffield. The Blackpool Climbing Towers for the second year 600 young climbers from all over the venue and ‘big top’ accommodation added a carnival running – the steep and high walls providing country took part in the regional rounds atmosphere to the event, but didn’t diminish the perfect terrain to test the competitors. Not only in March and April, with 180 of them intensity of the competition. Shauna Coxsey (junior did they have to contend with some fiendishly qualifying for the national final, hosted female), Jonathan Stocking (junior male), and difficult climbs, they also had to battle strong by the Edinburgh International Climbing Audrey Seguy (senior female) all did the double, by offshore winds and unseasonably low Arena. The competition combines winning the national bouldering and lead climbing temperatures. Gaz Parry (senior male) and bouldering and roped climbing, and championships in the same year. 21-year old Ned Shauna Coxsey (junior female) won for the there are three age categories within the Feehally out-climbed the favourites to become the second year running, whilst Audrey Seguy 8-16 age range. The general climbing youngest winner of the senior male category. (senior female) and Jonathan Stocking (junior standard is increasing each year, so much male) were newly crowned champions. A so this year that the seasoned route Full results at www.thebmc.co.uk/bbc ■ certain Nick Colton – who when not climbing is setting team were taken a little bit by the BMC Deputy CEO – won the veteran male surprise, leading to several ties even after All these events couldn’t take place without category; who said fix? super-final climb-offs. the support of the venues, and the dedication Full results at www.thebmc.co.uk/blcc Full results at www.thebmc.co.uk/ycs of numerous BMC volunteers. Thanks to all.

Coming this winter If watching the summer’s competitions has got you inspired, then get in training for these two great events.

BMC Leading Ladder British Team Trials This series, inaugurated in 2007, will run once again over the winter If you want to try out for a place in the 2009 British Lead 2008-2009 season, starting in October. Check the BMC website for Climbing Team and represent your country at international details, or ask your local climbing wall if it’s participating in the competitions, then put Saturday 6th December in your diary. series. Each wall will have ten routes graded from F5+ to F8A for There are four categories: junior boys and girls, senior men and you to attempt. Hand your scorecard in for a chance to compete in women. Any UK passport holder can compete for a place on the national final in March. It’s a great opportunity for climbers of the team. If you’re new to formal competitions the trials also all levels to experience competition climbing, and an ideal way to provide an opportunity for you to gauge your ability against improve fitness and maintain motivation during the long, dark the best in Britain. Check the BMC website for details nearer winter months. the time. Find out more at www.thebmc.co.uk/ladder Find out more at www.thebmc.co.uk/competitions

60 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk

60 Comps.indd 60 6/8/08 14:36:03 See www.thebmc.co.uk/events for full details and application forms for all BMC events

DOUG SCOTT - ILLUSTRATED LECTURES 2008 “A Crawl down the Ogre” (Ogre), “Life and Hard Times” (Life) October Wed 22BMCNew Mills, Student Town Hall, 01663 732701,Safety ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm& Good Practice Seminar Thu 23 Salisbury, Education Centre, Salisbury Hospital, private lecture, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm SponsoredSat 25 Wakefield, by Wakefield Ultimate College, Thornes Outdoors Campus Go Outdoors, Wakefield 01924 272877, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm PlasSun 26 y Brenin,Peebles, Eastgate 11 Theatre - 12th – 01721 October 725777 10-2pm 6.30-7.30pm www.thebooth.co.uk CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm ThisMon excellent 27 Langholm, seminar Buccleuch Centre gives – 013873 university 81196 - 10-12am club & 2-4pm members the opportunity to www.buccleuchcentre.com CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm improveTue 28 Irvine, their Magnum club Centre practices – 01294 313772 and CAN/ROKPA,learn new ‘Ogre,’ skills. 7.30pm Last minute places mayWed be 29 available,Kelso, Tait Hall, contact Edenside Road [email protected]. – 01573 224269 Brown’s Newsagents The BMC relies upon the 01387 373232 Ext.230 RokpaUK CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm kindNovember support of qualifi ed volunteers in order to run the workshops – if Mon 3 Dumfries, Easterbrook Hall, Crichton Campus – 01387 252891 Patties, Dumfries you’d like01387 to 373232volunteer ext 230 RokpaUK, on the CAN/ROKPA, seminar ‘Ogre,’ please 7.30pm contact [email protected]. Thu 6 Glasgow, Royal Concert Hall – 01415 595450 - TISO/CAN, ‘Life,’ 7.30pm www.thebmc.co.uk/safetyFri 7 Edinburgh, George Square Lecture Theatre, 01312259486 TISO/CAN, ‘Life,’ 7.30pm Mon 10 Aberdeen, Douglas Hotel, Market St, 07986 956365/01224 634934 CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Tue 11 Dundee, Discovery Point, Discovery Quay, 01382872020/01382 221153 CAN/ROKPA ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Wed 12BMC Lochgelly HutsCentre – 01382 Seminar 872020/ 01592 583303, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.00pm Thu 13 St Andrews, Byre Theatre, Abbey St. - 01382 872020/01334 475000, CAN/ROKPA, Hawkshead‘Life,’ 7.00pm YHA, 18th October Fri 14 Pitlochry, Town Hall, West Moulin Rd- 01382 872020/01796 473866 CAN/ROKPA, This biennial‘Life,’ 7.00pm event enables clubs with huts to discuss key issues and share Sat 15 Fort William, Nevis Centre – 01382 872020/01397 700707, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm information.Mon 17 Inverness, Anyone Culloden Academy involved – 07900 in 561296/0845 managing 458 9527a club hut is encouraged to [email protected] - CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm attendTue 18 toSkye, ensure The Aros that Centre they – 07900 are 561296 100% or 01478 up 613750to date with legally-binding [email protected] such as building and - CAN/ROKPA,fi re regulations ‘Life,’ 7.00pm and child protection laws. Thu 20 Oban, Corran Hall, Esplanade – 01382 872020/01631 567333, CAN/ROKPA, The event‘Life,’ is hosted 7.00pm by the BMC Huts Group and features workshops by a Fri 21 Through to Sun 23 - Kendal Mountain Film Festival, www.mountainfilm.co.uk/ varietyWed 26 ofWorcester, experts. John Moore Theatre, King’s School, 01905 721794/01905 611115, CAN/Him.Trust, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm www.thebmc.co.uk/clubsThu 27 Oxford, Nelson Mandela Room, Saïd Business School, Park End Street 01865 778536 CAN,’Ogre,’ 7.30pm Fri 28 Exeter University, Newman A, Lecture Theatre - www.tauntonleisure.com ,CAN, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Sun 30 Pately Bridge Memorial Hall - 01423 712922, [email protected] BMC01423 711840, Legal [email protected], Workshop ‘Ogre,’ for 7.30pm Club Offi cials December HawksheadTue 2 Hartlepool, YHA, Town Hall 18th Theatre, October Raby Road - 01429 890000, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Tue 9 London, RGS, ‘Tibet,’ speakers to be introduced by AA Gill, with Julian Freeman-Attwood, Stephen CoincidingVenables, with & Mike the Searle BMC - CAN/Promise Huts Seminar, Nepal - [email protected] the BMC are 01243running 771177, a legal 6.00pm for 7.45pm workshopThu 11 North for Berwick, club Macdonald offi cials Marine from Hotel 10:30-12:30 with Chris Bonington at -Hawkshead 016208 10259/ YHA. Run by 016208 10931, CAN/Life Science Trust, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm BMCFri 12 HonoraryForfar, Lochside Legal Leisure Advisor Centre, Queenswell Martin Road Wragg, - Telephone it numner will TBA,be based‘Ogre,’ Time on TBA an open forum / Q&A format. It’s a great opportunity for clubs to debate issues of On sale at lecture: Doug Scott Books - Himalayan Climber, The Shishapangma Expedition, common concern andDoug to Scottreceive Mountain expert Posters legal – NEWinput selection on the spot. If you have any technicalPick up information questions on Community for Martin, Action please Nepal submit at www.canepal.org.uk, them to [email protected] 01768 484842 Also our latest trekking programme with Community Action Treks Ltd by 19th Septemberwww.catreks.com, to allow Martin 017687 time 71890, to research [email protected] and prepare answers. www.thebmc.co.uk/clubs

BMC Technical Conference DOUG SCOTT - ILLUSTRATED LECTURES 2008 “A Crawl down the Ogre” (Ogre), “Life and Hard Times” (Life) Plas y Brenin, 25th October October Untitled-5 1 Wed 22 New Mills, Town Hall, 01663 732701, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm 6/8/08 10:52:27 Based on a theme of “Protective Equipment for the Outdoors”, the day Thu 23 Salisbury, Education Centre, Salisbury Hospital, private lecture, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Sat 25 Wakefield, Wakefield College, Thornes Campus will include lectures and demonstrations from DMM, the BMC Go Outdoors, Wakefield 01924 272877, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Sun 26 Peebles, Eastgate Theatre – 01721 725777 10-2pm 6.30-7.30pm Technical Committee and independent industry experts. www.thebooth.co.uk CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Mon 27 Langholm, Buccleuch Centre – 013873 81196 - 10-12am & 2-4pm www.thebmc.co.uk/equipment www.buccleuchcentre.com CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Tue 28 Irvine, Magnum Centre – 01294 313772 CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Wed 29 Kelso, Tait Hall, Edenside Road – 01573 224269 Brown’s Newsagents 01387 373232 Ext.230 RokpaUK CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm BMC Winter Lectures November Nationwide, November Mon 3 Dumfries, Easterbrook Hall, Crichton Campus – 01387 252891 Patties, Dumfries 01387 373232 ext 230 RokpaUK, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm These inspirational and educational talks will be presented by Dave Hollinger Thu 6 Glasgow, Royal Concert Hall – 01415 595450 - TISO/CAN, ‘Life,’ 7.30pm Fri 7 Edinburgh, George Square Lecture Theatre, 01312259486 TISO/CAN, ‘Life,’ 7.30pm (IFMGA Guide) and Rob Jarvis (MIC). See news for more details. Mon 10 Aberdeen, Douglas Hotel, Market St, 07986 956365/01224 634934 CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm www.thebmc.co.uk/winterlectures Tue 11 Dundee, Discovery Point, Discovery Quay, 01382872020/01382 221153 CAN/ROKPA ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Wed 12 Lochgelly Centre – 01382 872020/ 01592 583303, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Ogre,’ 7.00pm Thu 13 St Andrews, Byre Theatre, Abbey St. - 01382 872020/01334 475000, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm MLTA National Conference Fri 14 Pitlochry, Town Hall, West Moulin Rd- 01382 872020/01796 473866 CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Plas y Brenin, 8 - 9th November Sat 15 Fort William, Nevis Centre – 01382 872020/01397 700707, CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Mon 17 Inverness, Culloden Academy – 07900 561296/0845 458 9527 Come along to the Mountain Leader Training Association (MLTA) [email protected] - CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Tue 18 Skye, The Aros Centre – 07900 561296 or 01478 613750 National Conference for a full weekend of in-depth workshops. These [email protected] - CAN/ROKPA, ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Thu 20 Oban, Corran Hall, Esplanade – 01382 872020/01631 567333, CAN/ROKPA, include: improvised rescue, GPS, SPA skills, rope-work for Mountain ‘Life,’ 7.00pm Fri 21 Through to Sun 23 - Kendal Mountain Film Festival, www.mountainfilm.co.uk/ Leaders, setting up a small business, BMC fundamentals of climbing, Wed 26 Worcester, John Moore Theatre, King’s School, 01905 721794/01905 611115, CAN/Him.Trust, ‘Ogre,’ teaching navigation skills, risk assessment for leaders, the MIA, good 7.30pm Thu 27 Oxford, Nelson Mandela Room, Saïd Business School, Park End Street practice in gorge walking, expedition skills and the mountain 01865 778536 CAN,’Ogre,’ 7.30pm Fri 28 Exeter University, Newman A, Lecture Theatre - www.tauntonleisure.com ,CAN, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm environment. The event is exclusive to MLTA members; new members are Sun 30 Pately Bridge Memorial Hall - 01423 712922, [email protected] 01423 711840, [email protected], ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm welcome and you can join when booking. December Tue 2 Hartlepool, Town Hall Theatre, Raby Road - 01429 890000, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm www.mltuk.org Tue 9 London, RGS, ‘Tibet,’ speakers to be introduced by AA Gill, with Julian Freeman-Attwood, Stephen Venables, & Mike Searle - CAN/Promise Nepal - [email protected] 01243 771177, 6.00pm for 7.45pm Thu 11 North Berwick, Macdonald Marine Hotel with Chris Bonington - 016208 10259/ Kendal Mountain Film Festival 016208 10931, CAN/Life Science Trust, ‘Ogre,’ 7.30pm Kendal, 20th - 23rd November Fri 12 Forfar, Lochside Leisure Centre, Queenswell Road - Telephone numner TBA, ‘Ogre,’ Time TBA Whether you’re a travel enthusiast or just after inspiration for a holiday On sale at lecture: Doug Scott Books - Himalayan Climber, The Shishapangma Expedition, Doug Scott Mountain Posters – NEW selection with a difference, this is the place to be. See news for full details. Pick up information on Community Action Nepal at www.canepal.org.uk, 01768 484842 www.mountainfi lm.co.uk Also our latest trekking programme with Community Action Treks Ltd www.catreks.com, 017687 71890, [email protected]

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Untitled-5 1 6/8/08 10:52:27 61 Events HP.indd 61 6/8/08 14:38:28

big issues

Hill Skills: Contour interpretation by Roger Wild

The most useful feature on the map Ridges: which can be small, medium or 3. In poor visibility, examine the contour for navigating in the mountains is large (R) features on the map and form a mental picture the contour line. Contour features Flat areas: the absence of contours can be of what the ground ahead of you would look can nearly always be identified on useful (F) like if the visibility was good. Anticipating the ground even when covered in what the ground will be like before you arrive snow, and developing your contour is very useful – it forces you to interpret the interpretation skills is vital if you want contours on the map. to feel confident navigating in all Like all skills, the more you practice the conditions and on all terrain. better you become. On days with good visibility there may be a tendency to walk What is a contour line? along looking at the view or chatting away, A contour line is a line on the map joining rather than studying the map in detail. A points of equal height. The ‘vertical interval’ is habit worth acquiring is to always spend the height between each contour, and this will part of each hill day developing your be shown on the map. Ordnance Survey Example contour features by permission of contour interpretation skills – even if it’s not 1:50,000 and 1:25,000 maps have a 10-metre Harvey Maps. really necessary at the time. You could set a vertical interval while the British Mountain limit on the time you’ll spend on this, Maps 1:40,000 scale maps have a 15-metre The illustration map above shows examples maybe half an hour, or until you reach a vertical interval. Some popular maps of the of all these features (the letters in brackets particular landmark. have a 10-metre vertical interval shown above refer to the features indicated on Build up a repertoire of images by matching which changes to 20-metres when you cross the map). up features on the ground with the contours over the border into Switzerland. So beware! on the map. For example, the illustration map Contour interpretation shows two examples of a ridge (R). The What is a contour feature? Contour interpretation is about relating the westerly ridge is fairly narrow but is relatively What is a contour feature? It’s actually contour features on the map to the real features easy angled (although there may be a short, pretty simple, as there are actually only six on the ground, and vice versa. Once the map is steep section at the apex of the thick contour) general types: set, this can be done in three main ways: whereas the easterly ridge is broader and 1. Evaluate the ground under your feet. steeper. By identifying these features on the Ring contours: which portray knolls and Defining the type of feature it forms will help ground you’ll be able to store their images hills (RC) with identifying it on the map. This can be away for use in other situations where the Saddles (S), bwlchs, bealachs(S) done in both good and poor visibility. terrain is similar. Slopes: which could be gentle (GS), 2. In good visibility, look at features beyond Another example of feature variations can medium (MS) or steep (SS) your immediate location and identify them on be found by examining slopes: how close Valleys: they come in different shapes and the map. These features may be close-by or together are the contours on a steep or sizes (V) several hundreds of metres away. medium slope, and how do you define a steep

Q. Is orienteering a good way Q. Does getting lost mean I’m a A. A compass is a scientific to develop my navigation skills? poor navigator? instrument, you generally get what you pay for. A long base A. Definitely. Most of us don’t A. No. Navigation is an art, not a plate is essential if you are practice the full range of science. Even the best of us get aiming at things, keeping to a navigation skills on a regular lost occasionally, usually because bearing and pacing. I like a basis. Orienteering provides a we’ve lost concentration. In fact I’d good magnifying glass, brilliant afternoon’s walk with a recommend getting a bit especially with complex detail map. A mid-level course (light ‘cartographically challenged’ in on say a 1:25,000 map. It is green) is about 3-4km, offering a order to practice your re-location amazing what additional map This issue’s expert is Nigel dozen legs requiring navigation skills. Again, orienteering information you can pick up Williams. Nigel has been Head strategies and map and compass provides an ideal opportunity to when on ridges or between of Training at Glenmore Lodge skills. A forest can be the practice for real, and hopefully letters of words etc. I don’t for 11 years. A Mountain equivalent of mist. You don’t have you won’t end up 20km away tend to like too much clutter Instructor, nordic skier and to run or wear lycra and you’ll from the car. on the base plate as I use orienteering coach, he’s marvel at the detail of the maps. centimetres and millimetres passionate about the coaching See www.britishorienteering. Q. What do you look for when mostly to measure distances of navigation. org.uk to find an event. buying a compass? on the map.

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62-63 hill skills.indd 62 4/8/08 15:28:54

Hill Skills

Practice your navigation in good visibility. Hill Skills: Contour interpretation by Roger Wild Photo: Alex Messenger.

or medium slope anyway? Generally 45- they’re upside down you’re looking journey. Once you begin to master contour degrees is too steep for walking, whereas 27- downhill (on the map). interpretation, you’ll feel more confi dent when degrees is a reasonable angle, which we will 2. Rivers and streams fl ow downhill – they are navigating in the hills. ■ call a medium slope. How do we know if the useful indicators of high and low ground on contours on the map are going uphill or the map. This is one the navigation skills taken from the downhill? Here’s a few ways: 3. Find the nearest hill (on the map) this will MCofS ‘Navigators’ Dozen’ – a list of everything 1. Look for the contour heights which are usually make it clear. you need to know about mountain navigation. incorporated within the contour lines. Also Develop a library of mental images of different Roger Wild is the MCofS Mountain Safety remember that the contour height fi gures features and how they are represented on the Advisor. Roger co-wrote and co-directed the are printed on the map facing uphill – if map by contours. This will increase you ability forthcoming Hill Walking Essentials DVD with you’re looking at the fi gures the right way to work out where you are and to anticipate the Jon Garside (BMC) and Mal Creasey (Mountain up you’re looking uphill (on the map) and if ground which lies further ahead in your Leader Training England).

Q. What is the most important Q. . What is the best way element of teaching navigation? to introduce young children further information to navigation? A. Building confi dence. Someone Hillwalking once said that “Navigation is 25% A. Orienteering! It’s a Hillwalking is the offi cial handbook of the map work, 25% compass work and family-friendly activity, kids Walking Group Leader and Mountain 50% confi dence in the other two”. can relate to the map scale Leader scheme and it’s packed full of Forget grid references and learning and courses are graded in advice to help you make the most of your map symbols in the classroom – colours like ski runs. The time in Britain’s hills and mountains. start navigating on small-scale teaching methodology has www.mltuk.org orienteering maps with lots of provided the UK with world- information. Have a steady class navigators in every age progression of learning, from map group, whilst many of us who The Navigator’s Dozen setting through to re-location learnt ‘map reading’ (as Check out the Navigator’s Dozen on skills, and use a non-threatening opposed to navigation) on a the MCofS website for more environment (such as school 1:50,000 OS map in school navigational tips. www.mcofs.org. grounds or a park) before hitting a struggle to navigate effectively uk/navigators-dozen.asp forest then the hills. later in life.

www.thebmc.co.uk/safety Summit - Autumn | 63

62-63 hill skills.indd 63 8/8/08 10:33:57 Essential Skills: High altitude expeditions by Rob Jarvis

Skill intro para and then colour

skill colourant to enhance your chances Reason 1: motivation Climbing big peaks is all about keeping caption of success and even The single biggest factor in determining the show on the road (or rather you on the caption WFeature body‘enjoyment’ on multi-day your chance of success on an expedition hill and, ideally, going upwards). Drinking, expeditions to big peaks? Whether peak is motivation. We’re all highly eating and sleeping are the three essentials you’reFeat after sub bagging and then Mont Blanc,colour Mera motivated when looking at a pretty picture – miss out on any of those and you’ll rapidly Peak,skills Denali colour or even Everest, you can in the pub, but fatigue, dehydration, weight run out of steam. Also remember that thirst stack ■ the odds in your favour. loss, sunburn, boredom and food fantasies and hunger are poor indicators of hydration all erode our will to climb. You’re less likely and calorie intake – make a big effort to ApartBio copy from poor weather and conditions, to dig deep and go that extra mile if you’re drink and eat even if you don’t feel like it. there are three major reasons why people cold, tired, thirsty and hungry; to keep your Expeditions are long enough for the often fail to reach the summit of their motivation high you need to make the effort cumulative effects to matter – what you do chosen peak. Let’s take a look. to look after yourself. on the approach can affect how you feel on summit day. Get that hat and shades on and Extreme first aid. In 2003 Nick Arding was involved in this high Meals with a high calorific value are essential on big, cold mountains. be meticulous about applying sun cream altitude rescue on Everest, saving the lives of two climbers. Pan-frying Alaskan Salmon at Kalhitna Base Camp, Denali. Photo: Arding collection. and lip barrier. Keep on top of hygiene with Photo: Tom Briggs/Jagged Globe. constant hand washing – various modern alcohol gels help. Make the effort to adjust your clothing so you don’t get too hot or cold during the day, preferably with lots of ‘on-the-go’ adjustments that don’t require you to take your pack off. Likewise, stay positive if you’re not acclimatising so well or get a cold. Expeditions are long enough to recover and get back on track, and people regularly do just that.

Reason 2: acclimatisation The most effective acclimatisation takes place with reasonable, but not excessive, levels of respiration. The ideal is ‘active pottering’: lying in your sleeping bag on a rest day isn’t good, but neither is charging about trying to gain height too quickly. Ensure that your itinerary has sufficient time

Q. I’ve never been high before. A. I’d always recommend a plastic or suffer from Cheyne-Stokes Should I try trekking first? double-boot when above 6,000m, breathing, but I prefer to allow These are warmer and easier to plenty of time to acclimatise . That A. What is important is that you manage than leather. On the very said, everyone is different and those choose something within your high peaks, such as Mustag Alta, who acclimatise slowly and aren’t technical abilities. Some easy peaks Cho-Oyu and Everest, system bothered by the side effects are no more difficult than a trek – boots (super-insulated double- (tingly fingers and toes, and a desire Kilimanjaro is considered a ‘trek’ boots with an integrated gaiter, to pee a lot!), then Diamox certainly even though you reach a summit, such as the Scarpa Phantom 8,000 can help. and the trek across Ghondokoro La or Millet Everest) are the way to This issues expert is full-time pass near is probably just as stave off frostbite. I’ve worn both Q. What’s best to eat at Jagged Globe leader Adele tough as Mera Peak. Gain your these boots above 8,000m and had altitude? Pennington. Adele has summited experience in Scotland or the Alps no problems. with clients on Everest, Ama before setting off. A. Whatever you can get down. Dablam, Mount Vinson, Q. What’s your view on Diamox? It’s obviously best to eat food Kilimanjaro and peaks in the Q. Do I need special boots for that’s high in calorific content, but Andes, yet still manages to find altitude? A. I think it has its uses, especially it’s important that you enjoy time for her own mountaineering. if you’re having problems sleeping eating it. Try a selection of

64 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk/safety

64-65 climb skills.indd 64 8/8/08 10:35:15 Climb Skills

Essential Skills: High altitude expeditions by Rob Jarvis

caption caption for rest days and a slow rate of ascent – you’ll Searing heat and big loads en-route to 11,000ft camp on Denali’s West Buttress. be relaxed and confi dent that you’ll Photo: Tom Briggs/Jagged Globe. acclimatise well – and you may even enjoy your time spent high. Anxiety about your acclimatisation won’t help though, so be aware, but not ‘over-aware’, of the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Being relaxed, patient and adopting the slow pace of expedition life will also help. Take some good books and an MP3 player so you don’t lose the will to be hanging about base camp or staring at the top of your storm-bound tent. Make the effort to get to know the local staff team (Sherpas, cooks and porters) and you’ll be unlocking the door to hours of good banter and fascinating cultural exchange. practising using fi xed ropes). On the other committed high on a mountain is not most Reason 3: hand, if your chosen peak has lots of people’s idea of a good holiday, so save a preparation and fi tness exposed snow slopes then there’s no few ‘beans’ for the descent. It may be true that fi t people don’t always shortcut for time spent on these in Scotland In summary: prepare well, train hard, acclimatise well but it’s equally true that and the Alps. relax, look after yourself and good luck unfi t people are adding an extra strain on with the weather. Berg Heil! ■ their process of acclimatising. Don’t just Coming back down pound away down the gym – make your Hopefully some of these tips will help you Rob Jarvis has learnt a lot about training specifi c for your trip. If you’re out, but do remember that there are few expeditions since his fi rst totally naive and hauling a large sack up the stony paths of things more tiring than a big day at epic trip in Pakistan with his brother years Aconcagua then multi-day, self-suffi cient altitude. Be aware that fatigue builds and ago. He is an Aspirant International backpacking trips in the UK will help AMS can have a time lag. The idea that Mountain Guide and his company, prepare. If you’re off to the steeper and you’ll suddenly feel good again when you www.highlandguides.com, runs more technical Ama Dablam then time return to thicker air lower down the mountaineering, climbing, alpine and spent working hard on exposed, diffi cult mountain often just doesn’t work out. expedition training courses based in the ground will pay dividends (as will Feeling exhausted and hypoxic whilst Scottish Highlands.

dehydrated or boil-in-the-bag meals before you go. My personal further information favourites are a dehydrated ‘cod and potato real meal’ followed by cheese and biscuits. Pocket First Aid and Wilderness Medicine £7.20£ (BMC Members) Q. How do you keep By Dr Jim Duff & Dr Peter Gormly hydrated? Available in the BMC online shop.

A. At times this is very diffi cult Travel at High Altitude and it is important to rehydrate Produced by Medex yourself whilst at camp. On the A booklet written to help you understand some of the ways your body may trek Platypus style water carriers change at altitude. are OK, but on summit day they’ll Download your copy free from www.medex.org.uk freeze – use a thermos fl ask or a bottle with an insulated cover. On www.thebmc.co.uk/medicinwww.thebmc.co.uk/medicine Everest I carried a ¾-litre thermos Download essential free mountain medicine information. fl ask of hot sweet tea.

www.thebmc.co.uk/safety Summit - Autumn | 65

64-65 climb skills.indd 65 8/8/08 10:35:32 big issues

Tech Skills: Bouldering mats by Dan Middleton

Bouldering mats are the new kid Portability roots and rocks from being pushed up into on the block when it comes to The next question facing mat designers the softer open cell foam. It also means that climbing equipment. It’s hard to was how to make a decent sized but the pad can be used either way up. believe that before the late-nineties portable mat, and two basic solutions have these were seen as something been found to this: hinged or rolled (aka Carrying the pad reserved for ‘soft Yanks’; the British taco) designs. Most early pads were These days most pads have a variety of had bouldered for a hundred years hinged, and this style is still the most carrying options: grab handles, over the with nothing more than a beer popular. Most fold in half, but there are shoulder strap and rucksack straps. A nice towel at their feet. designs around which fold into three and feature on some pads is that the rucksack even four. The great thing about this idea straps are removable, and attach to the Of course, once you’d actually used one, it is that it doesn’t fold and damage the foam. clean landing side of the pad. This comes became apparent that they dramatically On the downside, you do potentially have into its own when a muddy session is reduced the impact and forces of hard a problem if you land smack bang on the followed by a strategic retreat to the public landings. And, as pads became more widely hinge line. Some models get around this house. used, bouldering took off to become a by angling the hinge. mainstream activity. The taco design eliminates the dead spot Looking after your pad created by a hinge. Because the pad can be The foam in pads will lose its structure over How they work effectively rolled into thirds, it’s popular for time, and become less effective at reducing It was soon realised that just filling the pad really big pads. The price you pay is that impacts, but a few simple steps will with a soft cushioning foam wasn’t enough, this rolling damages the structure of the enhance its life. First of all, it may be and ideas were taken from gym mats to high-density foam, and tends to leave a tempting to use your mondo-sized pad as provide the basic modern design – using a permanent bend in the pad. As it’s the high the mother of all sleeping mats. combination of different density foams to density foam which suffers most from this Comfortable it may be, but do this regularly, provide the required performance. High memory effect, some taco designs use a and it’ll reduce the useable lifetime of the density, closed-cell foam is used on the solid piece of low-density foam with a split foam. Allow your pad to dry before storing landing side. This relatively stiff and rigid piece of high-density foam, alleviating most it, and if it’s a taco design keep it un-rolled foam spreads the load out over a wide area. of the effect. to help prevent foam memory problems. The softer, low density open-cell foam Replacement foam is available for many underneath this is then compressed under Double or triple density? designs, and is well worth considering if the impact. This compression reduces the force The basic double-density design works outer fabric is still in good shape when the of the impact, and reduces the likelihood of pretty well, but for enhanced protection pad has become flabby. injury. Just as importantly, the fact that the against ‘bottoming out’ on uneven ground, landing area is smooth, flat and uniform triple density foam can be useful. An extra Other considerations greatly reduces the chances of twisting or layer of high-density foam is added to the Check it will fit in your car. Many a going over on ankles or twisting knees. bottom of the pad. This helps prevent tree boulderer has rushed out of the shop with

Q. Are the thickest pads Q. Can I recycle my old foam Q. I mostly do traverses, how the best? when it wears out? can I extend my mat?

A. Not necessarily, it all A. Yes, we do recycle our foam. A. The honest answer is buy a pad depends on the quality of the For this we granulate into small suitable for purpose. There are a foam being used. For example, pieces and then re-use it for things couple of good extendable pads on four inches of high-density foam like cane furniture cushions and the market. One of which is created would give far more support and lumber supports. and supplied by the Climbing last twice as long as a six inch Factory! low-density foam. The layering Q. Why is the foam so This issue’s expert is Ian Ratcliffe. system in the mat is also expensive? Q. I’m bored of carting a big pad Ian has worked within the foam important. A mat with a three- around – can you get inflatable industry for the last twelve years layer construction has far more A. Basically this is all down to the pads? and runs his own leisure advantages than just a two-layer cost of raw materials. We’ve seen furnishings company. He has construction. Some of these increases of around 42% over the A. Yes, there are air system pads recently started the Climbing being support, extra protection last three years and with little sign on the market which give good Factory, making bouldering mats on rough ground and the of slowing, this means that foam is support when landed on but they alongside Dave “we only ever versatility of being able to use the only going to get more expensive. tend to be heavier and more used beer towels” Bishop. mat both sides. expensive than foam based mats.

66 | Summit - Autumn www.thebmc.co.uk/equipment

66-67 tech skills.indd 66 6/8/08 14:44:23 Tech Skills

Tech Skills: Bouldering mats by Dan Middleton

Are you still me? Yes, of course we are. Ben Heason straying a little above safe pad height, Bishop, California. Photo: Alex Messenger.

their new purchase, only to fi nd their new landing surface will wipe clean and dry mats can only offer limited protection, pad doesn’t fi t into the boot of their tiny city easily, but isn’t much good for drying rock especially if you land awkwardly or from a runabout. For the environmentally shoes on. A piece of carpet, preferably long way up. A good attentive spotter can conscious, micro-pads are available which removable for easy drying, will prove make a real difference, so team up and look can be carried when cycling – as long as it’s useful, although you can always make your after each other out there! ■ not too windy! Rounded corners help own. Staking points are useful for those reduce damage to the fabric from abrasion, awkward sloping landings, if present make Dan Middleton is the BMC Technical and metal buckles on the straps won’t get sure they are well sewn in. Offi cer. Contact him at [email protected] crushed as easily as plastic ones. A cordura And fi nally, remember that bouldering with your technical questions.

www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/ technicalreports Check out the BMC Technical reports to fi nd out more about rope failures.

www.thebmc.co.uk/equipment Read more Tech Skills articles on the BMC website.

www.climbingfactory.co.uk A new British company offering both off-the-shelf and made-to- measure mats.

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66-67 tech skills.indd 67 6/8/08 14:44:35 Classifi eds Classifi SummitClassifi eds UIAGM/BMG GUIDES COURSES AND ACTIVITIES

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Classifi eds 8/3/06 14:17:39 last thoughts the line David Gladwin tackles the notorious North Face of the . metal scraping on rock. By 6pm we were on the third ice fi eld and our home for the night David Gladwin on top of the Eiger. was in sight – the Death Bivy. Its name dates Photo: David Gladwin collection. from 1939 – a German party sheltered from a storm here and never left. The second day was meant to have the most technical climbing on it. Right from the very start we climbed vertical ice, and sections of rock that for entire rope lengths seemed to have only matchbox sized footholds and nothing for our hands. One never-ending section fi nished with a strenuous mantle, and with tiring arms all I could manage was a desperate grab at a sling tied to a . To my dismay it pulled out, sending me sailing down the face before the rope came taught. The route fi nding became challenging too; chimneys leading to seemingly impassible walls of rock. Already totally exhausted, we didn’t want to risk climbing the wrong way, and had to frequently retreat to try our luck hen I saw the local forecast, I knew we with the next one. As the light faded, we decided that were on: it was time to tackle the the 60-degree slope of ice in one of the gullies would be W North Face of the Eiger. All winter I’d as good as our night got – and set to work digging out a been waiting for this opportunity, keeping in couple of bum-sized ledges, melting some snow and shape by constant ice climbing and dry tooling; eating the last of our food. when no partners were available, I’d solo easy ice Avalanches came down all night, fi lling my bag, routes or do endless pull-ups on my axes. although I was better off than Jim – he’d opted to travel light and left his behind. At around 4am we decided Aboard the Jungfraubahn train in Grindlewald, we that this disturbed, fi tful sleep was pointless, and as chugged away from grassy pastures towards the base of Jim’s shivering was worrying us, set off on the fi nal exit the Eiger – and my fi rst sight of . Looking cracks. Eventually, the angle of the rock eased and we up, part of me was ecstatic, part anxious – this route has hit the fi nal ice slope leading to the summit ridge. claimed 70 lives. It was tempting to abandon our plans, We plodded on at a snail’s pace, on calf-burning 45-50 to join the group of camera-happy Japanese tourist on degree ice, and summited around midday. After three their trip right through the Eiger to the far ridge, but days of technical, heart-wrenching climbing, we were summoning our reserve we headed to the campsite. sitting on the summit of our world; we had a beautiful At camp there were a few climbers waiting around for panorama of the Monch and Jungrau mountains to our ideal conditions: two Danes hoping to make the fi rst side and the inviting safety of the Grindlewald valley Danish ascent, three French planning on fl ashing the below. But the clouds were coming in fast, leaving an route in a day and a pair of Austrians who’d fi xed some incredible tail of cotton wool behind them – we decided rope over the diffi cult sections the previous day, before to get down before the weather broke. using the famous train tunnel window to come back The descent wasn’t technical, but it was exposed. down. We packed our bags with the absolute minimum, Jim lost his footing a couple of times, one ending in him ate as much as our anxious stomachs could stand, then sliding down a rock gulley for fi ve metres then stopping settled down. on a football sized rock at the bottom, no more than a By midnight we were underway. The sky was a footprint away from a 30m cliff. brilliant blanket of stars and the silence a deep We arrived in Grindlewald, every muscle aching, nothingness. We plodded along until the big, black void hungry and dehydrated. Despite this, when we saw our was above us and we could see the French climbers’ friends, we were grinning from ear to ear and hugged torches just ahead, moving fast. We got the ropes out them affectionately. They congratulated us, seeming as and climbed together, and when the going got diffi cult proud and relieved as we were. We joked and belayed each other, alternating leads. The day passed exchanged stories then heard the bad news: one of the like this, exchanging the odd word or joke but never French men, after summiting in one day, slipped on the stopping. The only sounds were the familiar thump of descent and died. the axes or crampons and the occasional screech of It’s a thin line you walk in the mountains. ■

74 | Summit - Autumn

74 last thoughts.indd 74 5/8/08 16:03:57 Sum76.indd 1 4/8/08 12:13:20 Challenge them to climb their own mountains

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