Scuba Confidential :: Tech Talk – Idiot Buddies :: Portfolio – Erika Pochybova-Johnson Brazil Fernando de Noronha Caribbean GLOBAL EDITION Cayman Brac May 2014 Number 60 Polar Diving Antarctica Sweden Dalarö UW Photo Snoots Se7en Training INDONESIA'S Tech Gorontalo Art of Bailing Out 1 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 COVER PHOTO BY MIKE BARTICK DIRECTORY X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS Frederiksberg, Denmark www.xray-mag.com

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SENIOR EDITOR Peter Symes Michael Symes, PhD - Science Lionfish on , Gorontalo, Indonesia. Photo by Steve Jones [email protected] SECTION EDITORS contents PUBLISHER, MANAGING EDITOR Michael Arvedlund, PhD - Ecology & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Scott Bennett - Travel, Sharks Gunild Symes Andrey Bizyukin, PhD - Features [email protected] Larry Cohen - Photo & Video Kelly LaClaire - Marine Mammals ASSOCIATE EDITORS Catherine Lim - News, Books Scott Bennett, Toronto Roz Lunn - Equipment News [email protected] Bonnie McKenna - Turtles Catherine GS Lim, Singapore Michael Menduno - Tech [email protected] Robert Osborne - Features, Profiles Michael Menduno, Berkeley Ila France Porcher - Sharks [email protected] Don Silcock - Photo & Video Barb Roy, Vancouver [email protected] COLUMNISTS Gretchen Ashton - Dive Fitness Russia - Moscow Pascal Bernabé - Tech Talk Andrey Bizyukin, PhD Leigh Cunningham - Tech Talk [email protected] Andy Murch - Shark Tales Svetlana Murashkina, PhD Mark Powell - Tech Talk [email protected] Cindy Ross - GirlDiver Cedric Verdier - Tech Talk ASSISTANT EDITORS Lawson Wood - UW Photography Roz Lunn, London [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE Robert Osborne, Toronto Kurt Amsler [email protected] Mike Bartick Don Silcock, Sydney Scott Bennett [email protected] Pascal Bernabé Yoland Bosiger USA Michel Braunstien Larry Cohen, New York City François Brun [email protected] Anoosh “Tony” Emtiaz Kelly LaClaire, Portland Kathalyn Gaither [email protected] Bill Horn Bonnie McKenna, Houston Steve Jones [email protected] Millis Keegan Kelly LaClaire ADVERTISING Wolfgang Leander UNITED KINGDOM 9 12 23 31 42 plus... Rosemary E Lunn, London Gareth Lock Wrecks: Florida Dalarö Wreck Park Gorontalo Cayman Brac Training: EDITORIAL 3 [email protected] Rosemary 'Roz' Lunn Artificial Reefs Sweden Indonesia Caribbean Safety Culture NEWS 4 Erin McFadden by athalyn aither by illis eegan by teve ones by awson ood by areth ock USA & INTERNATIONAL Matthew Meier K G M K S J L W G L WRECK RAP 9 Susan Kochan, Key West Michael Menduno TRAVEL NEWS 20 [email protected] Keith Mille Matthew Meier, San Diego Erika Pochybova-Johnson 48 59 74 85 87 EQUIPMENT NEWS 40 [email protected] Ila France Porcher Polar Diving Rebreathers: Taking Tech: Overview of Photo FERNaNDO de BOOKS & MEDIA 65 Simon Pridmore Contacts page: Xray-Mag.com Don Silcock Antarctica the Se7en for a Spin The Art of Bailing Out Editing Software Noronha, brazil MARINE MAMMALS 46 Jerry Sutton by Yoland Bosiger by Peter Symes by Pascal Bernabé by Matthew Meier by Michel braUnStien SHARK TALES 68 Gunild Symes Peter Symes PHOTO NEWS 82 Chris Thrall Not yet subscribed to Lawson Wood columns... X-RAY MAG? Sign up now! SUBSCRIPTION It’s FREE! QUICK! EASY! X-RAY MAG International Edition in English is FREE 63 66 78 94 click here... To subscribe, go to: www.xray-mag.com Scuba Confidential: Tech Talk: UW Photo: Portfolio: Erika COVER PHOTO: Hairy Frogfish, , Philippines Carried Away Idiot Buddies Sensational Snoots Pochybova-Johnson Photo by Mike Bartick by Simon Pridmore by Steve Lewis by Mike Bartick edited by Gunild Symes

2 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Singapore Tacoma Toronto Vancouver Warsaw — Editorial editorial

Progress

In old movies movies or docu- thankfully, come a very long technology we employ. As mentaries from the 60’s, it way, and accident rates have mentioned before in this col- always stands out how differ- diminished accordingly. But, umn, the human factor is the ent the thinking was back then. as we all are aware, not gone. focus of much of the People smoked on airplanes. While we may have come a research in both aviation and Drivers did not wear seatbelts, long way, there is still a lot to be the automotive industry who which sometimes weren’t even accomplished. strive to find new ways to make fitted. their products safer. The same can be said about Not only did manufacturers not diving. I’ve been certified for In a way, it is therefore logical, want to create any associa- about as long as I have held a or fitting, that Gareth Lock, who tions between their products driver’s license, and methods, will contribute a series of fea- and possible accidents, but the knowledge and procedures tures in X-RAY MAG on human whole mindset was fundamen- have surely changed over the factors and safety cultures, tally different, and safety, as we years. In most cases in progres- including an article in this issue, know of it today with airbags, sive ways, but sadly not without works for the Royal Air . anti-lock braking systems and casualties either. deformation zones, was still far It may not come across as very into the future. Fast-forwarding a couple of sexy science, and the strain decades, I can't help ponder of thinking about our present How odd it is to watch how what the future will make of ways of diving in a new way, or people i.e. went about driv- present day standards and new light, may put off one or ing then. What was considered procedures. I imaging they two divers who could otherwise normal practice then, around will seem both as antiquated benefit from a new mindset. But the time of my early childhood, and ill-informed as when we I believe the research into this gives me the shudders now. If now look back in time on how very field will be instrumental. I was offered a ride in a finely we used to drive or dive in the restored vintage car, I would last century. At least I hope so, It is my prediction that the most probably take up the invi- because it will mean we have greatest improvements in future tation just for experience sake, learned something in the inter- equipment and procedures will but I would certainly be mindful im and developed new tech- be built on its findings. of the absence of seatbelts and niques and practices to make airbags, too. diving safer, better and conse- So now's a good time to pay quently more enjoyable. attention. Safety features and principles— being active or passive, being One of the most important —X-RAY MAG built into the design, or being aspects will be ‘human fac- part of the procedures—have, tors’—how we interact with the

3 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Our results show both short-term acclimatory and longer-term adap- from the deep tive acquisition of climate resistance. Adding these adaptive abilities to ecosys- News edited tem models is likely to slow by Peter Symes predictions of demise for NEWS ecosystems. Can corals really adapt to rising sea ? Reef corals are generally highly sensitive to heat, yet some populations resistant to climate change have recently been identified. Stanford researchers show that some corals can adjust to hot water much faster than through evolutionary change alone.

It has been known for some years that tures that allowed the some corals resist bleaching by host- research team to test ing types of algae that can handle under what conditions the heat, while others swap out the the symbionts formed heat-stressed algae for tougher, heat- associations with cor- resistant strains. als. To investigate the biological processes that Corals are cer- Swapping enable corals to adapt tainly threatened corals to higher temperatures a The scientists FILE PHOTO: STEVE JONES group of Stanford re- by environmental transplanted transplanted acclimatised and achieved the same adjusted themselves by switching on searchers led by biology change, but this colonies from a warm pool heat tolerance that we would expect or off certain genes, depending on the professor Mike Palumbi research has really to a nearby cool pool and from strong natural selection over local . conducted a unique vice versa. many generations for these long-lived experiment in the shallow sparked the notion The researchers found that, organisms. Everything all well then? reef pools of Ofu island in that corals may be over time, cool-pool corals According to a Stanford University Palumbi cautioned that corals' heat- American Samoa. transplanted to the hot pool newsletter, these findings make clear adaptive characteristics do not pro- The island offered a tougher than we became more heat-tolerant. that some corals can stave off the vide a magic bullet to combat climate perfect laboratory setting thought Although the transplanted effects of ocean warming through a change. They can't respond to indefi- with numerous corals host- corals were only about half combination of adaptation based on nite temperature increases and they ing the most common heat-sensitive as heat-tolerant as corals that had genetic makeup coupled with physi- could be compromised by additional and heat-resistant algae symbionts. been living in the hot pool all along, ological adjustment to local conditions. stressors such as acidification and pollu- Ofu also has pools of varying tempera- they quickly—in less than two years— The corals Palumbi's group studied tion. ■ SOURCE: STANFORD UNIVERSITY NEWSLETTER, SCIENCE

4 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO news Taking On the Lionfish Getting people to eat burgeoning populations. But the com- to catch by hand lionfish is proving to be a mon misconception that the fish is poi- as they like to hide sonous continues to be an obstacle in in crevasses in reefs, challenge, according to some regions. but they can fre- researchers at the University quently be found of Southampton. Is it edible? in lobster traps, as According to PhD candidate, Fadilah they like to eat lob- Lionfish are an invasive species in Ali, who has dissected over 10,000 ster eggs. However, the Caribbean, and researchers are lionfish, said the fish is not poisonous as voracious eat- keen to get people eating and is safe to eat. While the barbs ers with no natural the fish to control its at the tips of lionfish fins do contain predators in Atlantic venom, it is not fatal to be struck by and Caribbean one, only painful. Ali said that edu- waters, they will go cation through media could help after juvenile fish of people understand the benefits of just about anything consuming lionfish, and put aside from grouper to prevailing misconceptions. In snapper to parrot- addition, Ali suggested that lion- fish, according to fish tasting events be organized conservationists of so more people could try the del- NOAA's Florida Keys icacy and overcome their fears National Marine of the fish. Sanctuary.

There is proof that people are Saving sharks eating lionfish safely, said Ali, no- Conservationists ting recent lionfish culinary com- have another

FILE PHOTO: PETER SYMES PETER PHOTO: FILE petitions and a lionfish cookbook, as reason for promo- well as successful exporters of lionfish ting lionfish for consumption: saving kill lionfish. Florida law bans the use of such as Belize and Jamaica. The cull, endangered sharks. If more people rebreathers for all . An ex- in Jamaica at least, seems to be hav- eat lionfish rather than shark, it could ception should be made for lionfish. ing a positive effect. There are reports help the recovery of decimated from Jamaica's National Environment shark populations due to overfish- The state has already taken several and Planning Agency that in coastal ing. Initiatives such as the first lionfish steps to increase the harvest of lion- waters there has been a 66 percent and bake taste-test at Maracas Bay fish, such as allowing divers to spear decrease in sightings of lionfish in in Trinadad and Tobago sponsored or capture lionfish without a saltwater depths up to 75ft. by Papa Bois Conservation and the fishing license. Anglers need a fishing Institute of Marine Affairs are getting license but can take as many lionfish Demand the locals talking about and trying as they want. While some vendors in Trinadad feel lionfish in place of the traditional local they will lose customers if they sell staple of shark and bake. The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conserva- lionfish on their menus because peo- tion cites Key Largo lionfish derbies as ple are wary of the venum in lionfish From spears to legislation examples of how allowing the spear- spines, other restaurants, in Florida for In Florida, the state is recruiting divers ing of lionfish in waters normally closed example, can’t get enough of the to combat lionfish. Fishery manag- to spearfishing proved to be "excellent fish, which are sporadically on the ers will urge Florida Fish and Wildlife opportunities to safely facilitate lionfish menu as catches come in, to satisfy Conservation voting board members removal." ■ SOURCES: ABC NEWS, TBO.COM, a robust demand. Lionfish are difficult to take more steps to allow divers to TRINIDAD & TOBAGO GUARDIAN ONLINE

5 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO news THE ISLANDS OF THE Want to clean a fjord? BAHAMAS Close to home, Call in Some Mussel far from reality... Dense beds of blue mussels, myti- lus edulis, can filter vast volumes of water. They are edible, too

seas, such as the Baltic, are severely affected by depletion and huge areas regularly die off.

In an attempt to prevent algae to completely dominate the ecosystems researchers have looked into using blue mussels, which are effective filter feeders, to bring the blooming algae populations under control.

Normal feeding in Mytilus edulis, and many other suspension-feeding bi- valves, depends on the cirri-trapping principle where bands of lateral cilia produce the main water transport through interfilamentary canals of the gill where suspended particles are separated. In experiments it has been demonstrated that the mean individu- al filtration rate of 21.5 mm shell length mussels was about 15 milliliter per minute. This equates to 22 centiliter, or a quarter liter per 24 hours, just for one small mussel.

Consequently, as many divers can testify, there is often a much clearer PETER SYMES PETER layer of water just above dense mussel Blue mussel beds can clean A project conducted by researchers dead algae sinking to the bottom in beds. fjords and bays. from Denmark's Technical University thick layers. As they rot, they consume showed that 18 hectares of blue mus- and deplete oxygen, choking huge The Danish researchers used 90km Agricultural fertilizers leaching into sels in Skive Fjord reduced the levels of swathes of seabed, leading to wide- (56mi) of lines from which the blue aquatic environment can cause mas- algae low enough to prevent oxygen spread bottom death. This is a big issue mussels were suspended. After a year, sive algae blooms leading to oxygen depletion. along coasts of agricultural areas. the scientists saw significant improve- depletion. Banks of blue mussels can ment in water quality in a surrounding get the algae populations under con- The main issue with fertilization of Shallow waters with a limited ex- area that was ten times bigger than trol, Danish researches has demon- coastal waters causing algae bloom change of water such as deep fjords the mussel beds. This effect has been strated. stems from the massive amounts of are in particular at risk but also bigger attributed solely to the blue mussels. ■

6 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO news

Sargasso Sea gets international protection Working together, the governments of Bermuda, outlining the use of of the Azores, Bermuda, Monaco, international organizations such the United Kingdom and the United as the International Maritime States have formed an internation- Organization, the Convention on al alliance to protect and conserve Migratory Species as well as region- the Sargasso Sea, located in the al fisheries authorities to protect the mid-Atlantic Ocean and unique Sargasso Sea’s unique ecosystem. for its floating seaweeds that are Executive Director of the home to a rich biodiversity. Sargasso Sea Alliance David A first for international coop- Freestone said, “This is a truly his- eration in protecting a marine toric occasion. It is the first time an View from Akajima Island in the Kerama group of islands area, the alliance signed a dec- international alliance has been laration in Hamilton, the capital formed to protect an iconic high seas ecosystem, Japan designates new marine park in Okinawa using existing legal international Kerama Islands and surrounding located 32 kilometres (20 mi) south- home to 248 species of coral. frameworks.” waters in Okinawa Prefecture has west of Okinawa Island in Japan The government will restrict de- The Sargassum become Japans 31st national park— The designated area includes 30 is- velopment within the areas, such as

Get beneath the surface seaweeds of the the first such designation in three lets and reefs, and covers 3,520 hec- the extraction of sand. It also plans Sargasso Sea serve decades. In addition, surrounding tares of dry land and 94,750 hectares to build coral restoration facilities to Okinawa: Diving’s best as an ecological waters shallower than 30 metres will of ocean. It lies 35 kilometres west of counter the damage done in the crossroad in the become a marine park. The Kerama Okinawa Main Island and is famous past. ■ SOURCE: JAPAN TIMES, JAPAN UPDATE kept secret Atlantic, where Islands are a group of 22 islands for its rich aquatic environment. It is Organising diving adventures in Yonaguni 30 species of and the Okinawa Islands cetaceans live or migrate through as well as other spe- Oman protects two coral-rich bays cies such as sea turtles, sharks, tuna On the Musandam peninsula of The result of five years of research Oman Marine Sciences and Fisheries and eels. Oman, the bays of Khor Najd and and campaigning by the inter- Centre which recommended the Unfortunately, Khor Hablain are now off limits to national organization Biosphere ban stated, “The destruction of the area has been all types of fishing, with the excep- Expeditions, the ban is hailed as corals means severe damage to threatened by pol- tion of handline fishing. In addition, “a wise and important step” by the marine life in the area. So this lution, ocean acid- all forms of nets and cages are the group’s founder, Dr Matthias measure not only protects reefs but ification, climate prohibited. These measures have Hammer. “This area has a high coral also helps in sustainability of marine change, fishing been put in place by the Ministry of coverage at nearly 60 per cent of resources.” and harvesting of Agriculture and Fisheries in order to the underwater surface. This is great- Aiming for the creation of a full www.insidejapantours.com algae for biofuel protect and conserve the pristine er than that of most reefs around marine protected area, Biosphere UK T: 0117 370 9751 US T: 303 952 0379 production and coral reefs, marine life and resources the world, and the Musandam reefs Expeditions hopes this measure is the E: [email protected] fertilizer. ■ as well as the natural beauty of are certainly the best in the region,” first step toward a network of MPA’s SOURCE: WILDLIFE EXTRA these practically untouched areas. said Hammer. in the region. ■ SOURCE: WILDLIFE EXTRA

7 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Doctor recommends screening divers for PFO news Peter A. Hughes, -Founder Closure of patent foramen ovale (PFO) may alle- viate sickness. A small study in hyperbaric chamber finds arterial bubbles was detected in 12 percent of divers with PFOs and none in divers who had their PFOs closed. Serious divers should seek screening, said doctor.

LIVE-ABOARDS! sickness in divers because a PFO group but none of the proportion of venous blood closure patients. Furthermore, Atrial carrying inert gases, such as in 21 percent of divers with PFO Septal helium or nitrogen does not and detected arterial gas bub- Defect pass through the lungs. bles, neurological symptoms of The only way to release the were excess inert gases from the present (ie. headache, unusual body is to pass the blood car- fatigue, and transitory visual rying the inert gases through disturbances). Conversely, the lungs to be exhaled. If none of the divers in the clo- some of the inert gas-laden sure group reported decom- blood passes through the PFO, pression sickness symptoms. it avoids the lungs and the inert The data should convince Oxygen via pills? gas is more likely to form large serious divers to seek screen- Bay Islands, Honduras bubbles in the arterial blood ing for the presence of a PFO, stream causing decompression Robert J. Sommer, MD, of Scientists have developed a new sickness. Columbia University Medical microparticle filled with oxygen that Czech medical Center stated to researchers put the medical industry can be injected into the blood stream. two groups of di- "And then those website TCTMD. Device Closure for Atrial Septal Defect vers through simu- patients come to me Sommer notes WIKIMEDIA COMMONS WIKIMEDIA The microparticles are for short-term resuscitation lated dives in a to get their PFOs that he has seen tiny capsules (2-4 microm- by boosting oxygenation hyperbaric cham- professional divers eters) made of a single during acute respiratory Atrial septal defect (ASD) is of adults the foramen ovale ber of either 18m closed because from organizations layer of surrounding failure, it does give raise a form of a congenital heart haven't entirely sealed after for 80 minutes or otherwise they would such as the New a small bubble of oxygen to some mind-boggling defect, such as a hole, that birth. In some cases elevation 50m for 20 minutes. be classified as York Police Depart- gas. perspectives; Not only enables blood flow between of the in the pulmo- The 'divers' were ment and the New Upon injecting a cap- could this exciting new two compartments of the nary can categorized ac- disabled and would York Fire Depart- NEW! sule-filled liquid into the technique provide first heart called the left and right cause the foramen ovale to cording to whether not be allowed to ment who have bloodstream, the capsules responders attending atria. remain open. This is known as a they had a PFO or dive again..." experienced symp- bump into red blood cells, dive accidents with bet- During fetal development a patent foramen ovale or PFO. not. toms on the job and transferring the oxygen ter tools, but is it also a hole in the septum called the In many cases an ASD may After the dives, subsequently been Palua to the cell in the process. glimpse into the future foramen ovale allows blood not produce noticeable signs using echocardiography, ve- found to have a PFO. “And About 70 percent of the were divers could have from the right atrium to enter or symptoms, especially if the nous bubbles were detected in then those patients come to oxygen injected success- gases provided via parti- the left atrium. This opening defect is small. both groups with equal fre- me to get their PFOs closed fully makes its way into the cles in the bloodsteam? allows blood to bypass the quency. because otherwise they would DESTINATIONS! blood stream this way. nonfunctional fetal lungs while PFO in divers be classified as disabled,” and While the technique is Food for thought. ■ the fetus obtains its oxygen However ASDs, and particu- Bubbles would not be allowed to dive primarily being developed from the placenta. larly PFOs, are a predisposing However, arterial bubbles were again, he said. ■ In approximately 25 percent risk factor for decompression detected in 12 percent of the www.DivEncounters.com

8 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Diver on wreck of the Oriskany, Pensacola, Florida; wreck Bay County Hathaway Bridge rap (below)

Text by Kathalyn Gaither, Florida Department of Environmental Protection. Photos by A. Emtiaz, Bill Horn; and Keith Mille of the FWC Program

Miles of white sandy beaches, to see—especially for those family vacation destinations, who like to take their sightsee- infamous spring break festivi- ing down below the ocean and ties and outstanding state parks gulf waters—like the beauty and attract millions of visitors to magic of thousands of artificial Florida annually from around the reefs that lie beneath the surface world. But there is so much more along Florida’s coastlines. Florida’s Artificial Reefs — A World of Undersea Adventure

KEITH MILLE / FWC ARTIFICIAL REEF PROGRAM

Artificial reefs themselves cannot com- pounds—frequent the reefs as thousands Most new reef materials are prefabri- pare to the magnificent beauty of of tiny fish spiral around them. cated concrete and steel reef structures Florida’s natural coral reefs. However, the built specifically for artificial reef use. spectacular marine species of all shapes, The artificial reefs vary from as little as sizes and vibrant colors is of equal one ton in size to in excess of 30,000 tons. Some of the older artificial reefs were amazement. These structures had varying roles before even somewhat famous before their sink- becoming a part of the vast underwa- ing. And while Florida’s coral reef tract lies in ter artificial reef community. There are south Florida waters, divers and snorkelers former combat army tanks, barges, Before its sinking off the waters near Looe can find more than 2,800 artificial reefs freighters, schooners, tugboats, box cars, Key in 1998, the 210-foot ship Adolphus located off 34 of the 35 coastal counties. airplanes and water towers. Busch was in the 1957 film Fire Down Below starring Robert Mitchum, Jack Species such moray eels and sea turtles, Currently, these types of reef materials Lemmon and Rita Hayworth. red snapper and cobia, Atlantic spade- are no longer used since new permits fish and butterfly fish—and even goliath require that reef materials be usable for In 2009, the USS Hoyt Vandenberg—a grouper reaching up to seven feet in long-term marine habitat and remain sta- 520-foot long missile tracking ship and length and weighing several hundred ble on the ocean floor. the star of the 1999 movie Virus starring

KEITH MILLE / FWC ARTIFICIAL REEF PROGRAM

9 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap

KEITH MILLE / FWC ARTIFICIAL REEF PROGRAM Okaloosa Liberty Ship

Jamie Lee Curtis—was sunk off as the USS Hoyt Vandenberg that and to many countries includ- Key West. was sunk in the waters off Monroe ing Newfoundland, South Africa, County in 2009. It is the second Spain and Denmark during the Scrap army tanks and decom- largest artificial reef in Florida sur- Cold War era. In 2002, the 510- missioned old ships may not be passed only by the USS Oriskany, foot ship was sunk in waters off thought of in terms of beauti- which was sunk in 2006, about 22 the Florida Keys and is located ful, but they do evoke a sort of miles from Pensacola Pass. near the John Pennekamp Coral intrigue and magic as artificial Reef Underwater State Park in Key reefs. The USS Oriskany, measuring Largo. 888 feet in length and weigh- Many of the structures were just ing 32,000 tons, was previously Especially common in gulf waters sitting in water or on land, aging a Naval Air Craft Carrier used off Mexico Beach in Bay County away, until Florida’s Artificial Reef primarily in the 1970s and decom- are memorial reefs that honor Program was created in 1982, missioned in 1976. She is fondly those who have passed on. and once again, they were given referred to as the Great Carrier Some of the pre-fabricated reef a purpose. Reef. structures actually hold the ashes of families’ loved ones in many Several of Florida’s artificial reefs The USS Spiegel Grove, named areas of the state, particularly off have historical value. Some after U.S. President Rutherford Sarasota. are registered with the Florida B. Hayes’ estate, was active in Underwater Archaeological the military from 1956 through Transportation was a theme for Preserve and the U.S. National 1984. It transported troops and older reef materials in the waters Register of Historic Places, such equipment thousands of miles of Escambia and Okaloosa coun- A EMTIAZ USCG Duane (above) photo taken by Anoosh “Tony” Emtiaz—an employee at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Two of his favorite sites are sister shipwrecks, the USCG Duane and USCG Bibb, both sunk in 1987

10 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap

Major Sergeants.

BILL HORN Queen angelfish, Dade County Barge

ties. In addition to the Oriskany, an old floating saloon and even a the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers; there are an additional ten army Rolls Royce off West Palm Beach. any beyond those distances need tanks, some CSX boxcars, at least permits only from USACE. a dozen M-60 army tanks, some No matter what it is made of— tugboats, several barges and old whether it’s a concrete module The Florida Fish and Wildlife Con- auto bodies that serve as a refuge or a massive retired military vessel servation Commission (www. and playgrounds for area marine —Florida’s artificial reefs present myfwc.com/conservation/salt- species. awesome opportunities for those water/artificial-reefs/locate-reefs) looking to explore life beneath the oversees a grants-in-aid program You can also see a little bit of sea, from the novice diver to the to assist local governments to help America’s past in Pasco County most experienced. fund the planning, building and waters where nine army tanks monitoring of artificial reefs in their have been sunk, and in Sarasota Be cautious—there are certain local marine waters, as well as County there are ten of them. dives that only experienced divers provide technical assistance and should attempt due to various guidance for artificial reef projects When it comes to variety and sheer numbers, no other dive

O Many of the artificial reefs have conditions such as currents, under- statewide. G R destination can outflank The Florida Keys & Key West. Because A L Y E been fondly named by divers or water and other variables. K

with the only living coral reef in North America, we’ve really

family members, like the Stewart With so many different reefs out

earned our stripes. fla-keys.com/diving A Unkles Jr. Memorial Reef, Red Sea Artificial reefs that lie within nine there to explore, divers and pho- AD OR M LA IS Tugboat, Spirit of Hemingway, nautical miles of the coast in the tographers will never need worry

ON Culverts Guardian Reef and Gulf of Mexico, and within three about becoming bored with the K ATH EY W MAR EST S Poseidon’s Garden—an underwa- nautical miles of the Atlantic need scenery. So plan your next excur- BIG PINE KEY & THE L OWER KEY ter burial site off Sanibel Island. permits from both the Florida sion to Florida and experience the Department of Environmental Pro- undersea world of adventure that There are some ex-smuggling ships, tection (www.dep.state.fl.us) and Florida’s artificial reefs bestow! ■

MCTDU-8808-B X-ray Mag.com LO1 • Nov-April 11 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap

Dalarö— Marine Archeological Wreck Park

Text by Millis Keegan The value is not measured in money, Photos courtesy of the but in knowledge. Due to extremely Swedish Maritime Museums favorable conditions, the wrecks and the remains found are virtual time The Baltic Sea offers some capsules, waiting to tell their stories very treacherous waters even about people and their way of living in the past, about the countries and under the best of circum- the cultures of Europe. stances. The price to pay for Nowhere else in the world are there sailing the Baltic through the as many well preserved wooden millenniums has been high, wrecks as in the Baltic Sea, and there is much to tell, but for now, we are and traces of those costs going to zoom in on Stockholm's are scattered over the bot- archipelago in Sweden. Over 20,000 tom. At the time and up to islands made navigating through a very short while ago in the these parts extra challenging in times long before the Viking Era. big scheme of things, no one Through well-kept archives, we knew how valuable these have information of over 20,000 wrecks would be. wreck site locations in this region. Yet, only a few of them have actually been found and explored by divers. The wrecks are hard to find, even with modern technology. When a new find is presented, it is a big deal and very exciting. Finding lost history Strides in new technology have made it easier than ever to find wrecks lost for centuries. Note that I say easier than ever, not easy. Easy it is not, but with a ‘little’ bit of funding, a crew made of the right stuff, lots and lots of time and a pinch of luck, it can and is done. Not too long ago a team of Baltic divers brought attention to

”Every dive we discover something new on the Dalaröwreck!”said Jim Hansson, Swedish Maritime Museums (above); Under wheel of canon hides handle of flint lock pistol (inset)

12 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap So many angels,

Visitors can follow what hap- you’ll think pens in real time on the wrecks, dry and comfortable over a cup of coffee, by signing up Dive platform used during early excavations on the Dalarö wreck pro- you’re in Heaven. for a full ROV experience vided the divers with a great base camp some really spectacular and field day, but there is always one is happy. How can we find nered up in a pro-ject called of hard work and the co- significant finds in the Baltic, that tiny little hindrance called a in which the wrecks Nordic Blue Parks. The aim operation of the municipal among them, the wooden money. Excavating something can be enjoyed in the mean was to develop a sustainable of Haninge Kommun and the warship Mars, which sank in from the bottom of the sea is time? marine tourism combining out- Swedish Maritime Museums as 1564 (read the story in X-RAY a costly matter, so the wrecks reach with protection. They well as some private actors MAG #59). That discovery are protected with a no-dive Nordic Blue Parks wanted to do so by opening that just wanted this to hap- brought a bit of frenzy to the clause attached to the pro- In 2012, museums and cul- underwater parks that com- pen, such as myself, to come world. tection. Now no one can tural and natural heritage bined cultural experiences with to this point. The work has Researchers and marine enjoy the wrecks, everything authorities in Sweden, Finland, nature. Through the Blue Parks, been ground breaking, a true archeologists should have a comes to a stand still, and no Denmark and Norway part- all visitors, not only divers, were learn-as-you-go experience, going to be able to experi- as nothing like it exists in the ence even the most fragile world. Anyone, scuba diver or shipwrecks. Perhaps tourists not, can visit the location of could be brought to the wreck the wrecks, and see what is sites by boat charter, with ROV going on in the deep, in real Sunscape Sabor Hotel Cozumel (remote operated vehicle) time. Dive House Dive Paradise capacity? Or through an inter- from $964 from $740 active museum experience The wrecks Scuba Club Casa Del Mar using computer animations? Of the three wrecks chosen Cozumel Cozumel Marine World Ideas were tossed around, and initially, two are well known from $944 from $826 tossed away. in the dive community, but Cozumel Palace 20-something years ago, dive Occidental Grand Pro Dive Aqua Safari Dalarö Shipwreck restrictions were put on the from $1027 from $1158 Preserve Jutholmswreck and Anna Haninge Kommun, in coop- Maria. eration with Swedish Maritime The Jutholmswreck is a small Museums (SMM), took the flute. She sank near the end ideas and ran with them. of 1780. A flute is a ship type It is 2014, and the first ever known for its loading capaci- Maritime Historical Underwater ties, and was mainly used for Shipwreck Preserve is about trading. There are still parts of to open up in the Baltic Sea. the cargo left on the wreck, Three wrecks have been cho- like barrels of tar and iron bars. 800-328-2288 sen for the preserve, and there Anna Maria, another flute, will be possibilities to dive the but bigger, sank in the harbor [email protected] wrecks as well as opportuni- of Dalarö in the harsh winter All packages include 7 nights, at least 5 days of diving, airport ties to sign up for the full ROV of 1709, after a fire broke out transfers, taxes, and service charges. Rates are subject to availability and standard terms and conditions. experience. while the crew were down- CSOT#2111993-40 • WSOT#603254369 • FSOT#38781 It has taken eight years ing some beers at a nearby The ROV pilot really needs to know what he is doing, navigating the fragile wrecks

13 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap

A mosaic of pictures shows the aft of the Dalarö wreck establishment. Both these wrecks flintlocks and one wheel lock pis- are well documented and exca- tol, Bartmann jugs from the city of vated. Amsterdam in Holland, an open The third one is a wreck found toolbox and more. All is out in the only eight years ago, a magnifi- open, and that is how the authori- cent wreck with a mysterious past ties want it to remain, for every- from the mid-late 17th century. one to see. That will be done An immediate dive ban was through careful restrictions and put in place, so very few have regulations. A diver gets ready to investigate below deck (top and left); Taxi at seen this pristine and truly unique Dendrochronology suggests Sea, M/S Vindbådan, takes non-diving passengers to the wreck sites ship. She sits upright on the bot- that the ships timbers were tom with everything, and I mean felled after 1613, possibly from about your explained that their mission is to everything, completely intact. Northumberland. A glass bottle control, you will need to play a proactive, coordinating Give or take some hundred years found in the wreck bears the know exactly what you role in heritage promotion efforts. of wear and tear of course—she Crest of the Boynton or Ogle are doing, and you will be Although they welcome the inter- did go down about 350 years ago family from Northumberland in judged during other dives, est for historic remains under after all—but the location is so England, which is quite a signifi- so you might want to plan water, they have to ensure that sheltered that even parts of the cant clue, but more information is more than a day at this the historic environment is pre- masts are still standing and pieces needed. There is a good chance destination to have a pos- served in the most effective pos- of the sail have been spotted. that the answer can be found sibility to experience the sible manner. Any sign of unnec- The Dalarö wreck will be the through future excavations, so cially trained dive guides will be in regards to Anna Maria and the Dalarö wreck. essary wear and tear, and they signature wreck of the park. stay tuned. the guardians of the wrecks' well Jutholms wreck, as long as you It took eight years and a lot will reassess the permissions. Even though she is extremely being. can prove that you can handle of hard work to reach this point, well preserved, she is the most Restrictions & regulations As a diver, you will be allowed yourself, your equipment and to be able to visit these unique Looting, wear and tear fragile. Some excavation has The cultural resources of the Baltic to dive the wrecks only if the have a clue about your buoyan- wrecks, but make no mistake, the Bad buoyancy skills are not been done, but so far, her story are under constant threat from wreck park rangers determine cy in cold water. permission can be taken away in the only danger to the Dalarö remains a secret. Spread out on pollution, looting and deteriora- that you have the necessary With the signature wreck, things less than a day. Historical Ship Wreck Preserve. the deck, artifacts from everyday tion as it is. To avoid any undue qualifications. will be a bit different. It will not Peter Norman from RAÄ, the Looting is also a very real threat life aboard can be found. Two and unnecessary damage, spe- It will be pretty straightforward be enough to just have a clue Swedish National Heritage Board, and will be even more so as the

14 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO The green water of the Baltic prom- wreck ises exciting and rap beautiful dives, as long as the visibil- ity cooperates

park opens up and the location Wreck Park Rangers was held at the world famous becomes more widely known. The Diving will only be allowed in Museum in Stockholm. The coast guard and the Baltic Sea small groups, and with a specially lectures touched subjects of laws Police have been part of the pro- trained dive guide, an under- pertaining to the protection of ject from the start, and are well water wreck park ranger. The the wrecks, and criminal activities aware of what is at stake. They Swedish Maritime Museums invit- such as looting and more. Also are not the only ones, the soci- ed anyone with at least a level discussed were safety issues, and ety as well as the Swedish dive of dive master or equivalent cer- the importance of knowing about community are very protective of tification to become certified as our past and the roll archeology these gems as well, and will make an underwater wreck park ranger plays in that. sure that the coast guard and the for Dalarö Ship Wreck Preserve. Nina Eklöf, Jim Hansson and Baltic Sea Police will be alerted to That required two days of training, Trevor Draeseke were the any suspicious movement around beginning with classroom training marine archeologists and the the wrecks. in the form of lectures, and a dive representatives from SMM. They day in the pre- covered topics including what is serve. marine archeology, how do they go about it on an everyday basis, Training and why marine archeology is The first part such an important science. They of the training spoke about research and the QUICK FACT fact that there is not So what happens now? as much funding for The next step is the in-water train- THE BALTIC SEA: 10,000 YEARS research, so they have to ing that will take place in mid- The Baltic Sea has existed for spend it wisely. May. After that you can book around 10,000 years, a product “We rely on you your historical wreck dive with of meltwater from glaciers and to spread the right one of the Underwater Wreck salt water from the North Sea information about Park Rangers. Unique to the park entering the straits between our historical wrecks, is also the non-diver program. Denmark and Sweden. There and it will be your job Tourists with an interest in history, have been human settlements to enforce a positive but with no intention of getting along its shores through the attitude or change the wet, can be brought to the wreck millenia and inhabitants sailed, attitude about them.” sites by boat charter. There are hunted and warred in the They pointed out that the even opportunities allowing visi- Baltic. ■ SOURCE: WIKIPEDIA wrecks are vehicles for tors to experience what happens understanding a certain on the wreck in real time, through time period in the past, ROV (remote operated vehicle). have changed, and the authori- which is what makes By now I think I've managed ties' dream of Nordic Blue Parks, them so interesting, and to convey that the Stockholm open to everyone, diver or not, that we now have an archipelago really is a fabulous is really happening. This is a big opportunity through the historical underwater maritime thing. Welcome to Dalarö Ship wreck park to reach a museum. It is a museum without Wreck Preserve, and enjoy experi- The figurehead, a lion, was brought up to the surface, after being larger audience with that real access to the public, unless encing the past. ■ measured and documented (left and right) she was returned to message. you are a scuba diver. But times her original place at the wreck site

15 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO wreck rap HMCS Annapolis artificial reef project stalls over spat and funding Plans to scuttle a decommissioned Canadian naval destroyer escort ship off Gambier Island in British Columbia have sparked opposition amongst local residents.

The Artificial Reef Society of BC (ARSBC) much tidal action and there plans to sink the HMCS Annapolis in is a fair likelihood that the Halkett Bay to attract divers. The ves- ship will actually come apart sel is currently moored at West Bay on once it's sunk. It's simply the Gambier Island, which is located in wrong place." Howe Sound north of Vancouver. Howard Robins of the NOAA Gambier homeowner Gary ARSBC is heading up the A survey by NOAA located the wreck of City of Chester at a depth of 66m (217ft) MacDonald and members of The Annapolis project. He said Save Halkett Bay Campaign are lob- the sunken vessel would th bying to prevent the HMCS Annapolis bring marine biodiversity to Uniquely designed clothing for 19 century shipwreck found from being sunk in the bay. According Halkett Bay. "These are very scuba divers www.divesangha.com to MacDonald, a recently released good projects, they do a lot Environment Canada study reveals pol- for the marine ecology and near Golden Gate Bridge lution levels in some of the ships com- they certainly bring in a lot of tourism sink the vessel. The ARSBC needs to ponents are more than eight times the dollars to the province because it's deal with environmental concerns and The wreck of a passenger steamer that went down in 1888 has been allowable limit. Environment Canada based on eco-adventure dive tourism— one more permit is required before the recently issued a request for proposals but fundamentally artificial reefs help ship can be sent to the bottom of the found sitting upright on the bed of San Francisco Bay. from companies interested in stripping bring back biodiversity," said Robins. "It's bay. "They have to be done right, and all insulation from the ship as it contains needed and that's exactly why we've they have to be done to code, and The 202-foot-long steamship City of utes before sinking. Sixteen people died in polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs). got it in Halkett Bay. It's all a good done to the standards," he said of artifi- Chester had just left San Francisco and the accident, NOAA stated on its website. "We've been calling for a thorough thing." cial reef projects. was headed up the California coast to The rediscovery of the wreck restores an investigation of the ship's state for Robins stresses the The HMCS Annapolis was launched in Eureka with 90 passengers on 22 August important historical link to San Francisco’s years," said MacDonald. "We're ada- ARSBC is suitably pre- April of 1963 and removed from service 1888, when at around 10 a.m. it was struck early Chinese-American community. Re- mant that Halkett Bay is absolutely the paring the Annapolis in 1998. The ARSBC purchased the ship by the steamer Oceanic. Impaled on ports at the time initially criticized Ocean- wrong place to sink a ship. There is too and is in no rush to in 2008. ■ Oceanic, which was arriving from Asia, ic’s Chinese crew in the racially charged City of Chester remained afloat for six min- atmosphere of the times. Criticisms turned to praise, however, when the bravery of the crew in rescuing many of City of Chester’s passengers was revealed. The wreck was then largely forgot- ten. The wreck won’t be raised, but a nearby museum exhibition will tell the story of the ship’s sinking. ■

A profile view of the iron and wood steamship City of BBAUMGARDNER / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS Chester sitting upright on the seabed of San Francisco Bay HMCS Annapolis

16 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Xray_Pelagian_H_Revised_PATH.pdf 1 20/12/13 4:36 pm industry news

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Rebreathers USA becomes US distributor of JJ-CCR Rebreathers USA, which is based United States. Rebreathers USA While they do not conduct train- in Everett, Washington State, is a certified JJ service center, ing on the units, a list of JJ-CCR has been designated exclusive offering a complete stock of instructors is available by con- distributor of the JJ-CCR for the replacement parts and supplies. tacting Rebreathers USA. ■

UK's Will Goodman descends to 290m on JJ-CCR Huish Outdoors acquires Liquivision Halcyon and Santi join

After a year’s training and and Guinness World Record depth of 290m off Gili Trawangan, "By combining Liquivision and Atomic Aquatics’ In April, Halcyon Dive systems and Santi Diving preparation, Will Goodman, a holder for the longest scuba Lombok Indonesia using an design and engineering teams, it instantly gives Equipment launched their cooperation, bringing Instructor Trainer, dive, descended to a recorded unmodified JJ-CCR. ■ us unparalleled expertise in design together two of the technical diving industry's most and manufacturing, along with an appetite for innovative brands. The joint venture will mean that innovation and amazing technology," wrote Mike customers will get better access to products, sales Manta Industries and Sartek team up Huish, president of Huish Outdoors, in a press support and service. release. The partnership of these two and manufacturing experience. more information, please contact: of Halcyon and Tomek great companies gives you the The members of Manta-Sartek Richard M. Simon, Founded in 2004 Stachura of Santi are reknown, experienced best sales, service and design team are all avid cave and wreck President Manta Industries by former freediv- divers, who, together with partners, developed team in the diving industry with divers and can answer all of your [email protected] ing World Record businesses to further their passion for diving over 43 years of combined design questions. For 1(800) 397 3901 ■ holder and inven- and achieve their ambitions in the field, as tor Eric Fattah, well as make diving safer and more easily Liquivision has accessed by others. made itself noted by its "The dive industry continues to grow, as well as series of com- our desire to discover more and more, and yet The Training Agency pact but innova- [there are still] undiscovered corners of the under- tive dive computers, water world," said Jablonski in a press release. He for Educators which were often the first on the market to said he'd known Stachura for many years and that embrace and incorporate new technologies such they had worked well together on the Mars wreck since 1995 as OLED display. Other notable computers include project in Sweden. "[It] became obvious to me the X1 CCR computer that featured a novel that Tom and Santi share fully in my vision for the tap based user interface, and in 2013, the com- future of diving, and that together, we will create pany unveiled the world’s first long range wireless the ideal for work on new products and common scubasnsi.com dive computer, the Lynx with a 100 meter range. ■ diving projects around the world," said Jablonski. ■

17 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO industry news Divers raise funds for a documentary about ancient underwater forest

The 50,000-year-old forest is discovery was a half-mile-square area of announced a 50,000-year-old cypress stumps couple years perfectly preserved under the ago, said team ocean floor off the coast of member Ben BEN RAINES the U.S. state of Alabama. As Raines information about the prehis- British manufacturer of Sunday, April 20, the fund- Thousands of stumps dot the toric climate, when sea levels raising project on Kickstarter seafloor, carpeted with anem- were 60 feet lower. Swim over launches new apres dive has passed the critical $15,000 ones and providing homes to the ancient river channel that mark, but the divers can fish, crabs and octopi. Some meanders through the site and clothing collection definitely use more than the of the trees are more than ten you are instantly transported $15,000 with which they know feet in diameter, relics from to a strange, fairylike world. It is British manufacturer Divesangha has they can get a film made. The the prehistoric woods before among the most magical spots launched their inaugural collection of apres fundraising runs until May 1. people lived in America, when in the sea. When the wood is dive clothing: www.divesangha.com. This The forest's existence has the Gulf Coast was covered in cut, it has a "cypressy" smell, garment range is aimed at divers and sea generated intense interest trees the size of redwoods. and sap oozes out of it, Raines enthusiasts alike who want comfortable, around the world since its They contain invaluable said. ■ practical and fashionable 'surface gear'. The resulting collection is functional and smart and individualistic. (Each t-shirt is indi- New guidelines for divers in England vidually numbered). There is huge care and attention to detail in the manufacturing of A guidance for divers in lines allow divers to go about soon be made available for these clothes, down to the logo'd buttons England has been issued by their standard usual diving the waters of Scotland, Wales and high quality stitching. the following agencies in a and training activities without and Northern Ireland. Divesangha garments feature the unique joint statement: BSAC, GUE, the need for a licence. Divers For more information, please Hung Dry system, which is currently being PADI, PSAI, SSI, SAA and TDI should refer to the guidelines see Marine Licensing: Guid- patented. Hung Dry is a simple system that or air on a rail or a line, without the need / SDI. The new guidelines are to be sure that they follow the ance for Recreational Divers allows clothes to be securely hung to dry for pegs, and more importantly, with no risk endorsed by all diver-training law. information sheet at www. that the wind will blow them agencies active in England. Activities not requiring a bsac.com/marinelicensing. away. Instructors, members and licence include: For all other inquiries regard- The word sangha means as- divers are seriously encour- • Deploying and recovering ing these new guidelines, con- sociation or community, and aged to follow them. temporary shot lines for divers tact the Marine Management it expresses something of the On behalf of all divers and • Using delayed or permanent- Organisation (MMO) directly unique and uniting harmony agencies, the ly inflated SMBs at telephone: 0300 123 1032, divers experience with nature BSAC, acting as the National • Using a to recover or email: marine.consents@ in the marine environment. Governing Body for Scuba items which have been under- marinemanagement.org.uk The environment is something diving, with SAA and PADI, water for less than 12 months This update has been is- that Divesangha takes very has been negotiating with the • Conducting surveys of ship- sued by: British Sub-Aqua Club seriously. They are commit- Marine Management Organi- wrecks by hand (BSAC), Global Underwater ted to ethical manufacturing. sation (MMO) in regards to • Using lifting bags for under- Explorers (GUE), Professional All of Divesangha products the interpretation of the legal water litterpicks. Association of Diving Instructors are exclusively designed and requirements for divers pursu- (PADI), Professional Scuba As- manufactured in the United ant to the Marine and Coastal For other specific activities, the sociation International (PSAI), 10% off Kingdom. And their packaging Access Act 2009 (MCAA). MMO still requires either previ- Scuba Schools International QRT3EJTZ is fully recyclable, too. ■ After long discussions, there ous notification or a licence (SSI), Sub Aqua Association is now an accord on a set of application; Please consult (SAA), Interna- guidelines for all divers diving the MMO for direction in these tional; Technical Diving Inter- in English waters. These guide- cases. Similar guidelines will national (TDI / SDI). ■

18 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO industry news SEE IT Florida dive operators face charges of illegal shark feeding DEMA EXPERIENCE IT Florida Fish and Wildlife conducted two separate inves- ny Calypso Dive Charters. SHOW Conservation Commission tigations involving two northern During this trip, deputies took Palm Beach County dive charter video of Roman feeding a goliath (FWC) have filed charges operators. grouper and a lemon shark. Video against four men linked also shows Roman trying to lure Caught on video sharks to his location by shaking 2014 to the illegal feeding of sharks and fish within state On February 8, deputies from the a milk crate filled with barracuda SHARE IT PBSO dive team took part in a chunks. Both feeding incidents waters. The investiga- dive trip on board Emerald Char- happened in state waters. tion started after the FWC ters of Jupiter. During the dive, AT DEMA SHOW 2014 IN LAS VEGAS! received several com- video was taken of Randall Jor- Illegal since 2002 plaints that shark feed- dan feeding sharks by hand while FWC investigators and PBSO divers within state waters. He also used a used several GPS devices and NOVEMBER 19–22, 2014 | LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER | LAS VEGAS, NEVADA | WWW.DEMASHOW.COM ing was taking place off milk crate filled with fish chunks to other methods to confirm these the coast of Palm Beach lure sharks to his location. Thomas activities were occurring in state County during dive Smith was operating waters, which, in the Atlantic, is the vessel during the within (or up to) three nautical THE WORLD’S ONLY INTERNATIONAL TRADE-ONLY EVENT FOR DIVING, ACTION WATERSPORTS AND TRAVEL PROFESSIONALS! charter trips. dive. miles from the nearest point of On February 22, Florida coastline. Fish feeding in One complainant told the deputies took Florida waters has been illegal FIND OUT MORE AND REGISTER NOW AT dispatchers she was on another dive trip since 2002. WWW.DEMASHOW.COM a dive trip where sharks on board the vessel were being fed. The per- Miss Jackie, which is Charges pressed son said the sharks had owned by Luis Ro- The FWC presented results from become so aggressive man of Orlando and the joint investigations to the Palm she had to get out of the oper- Beach County State Attorney’s water. ated Office, which charged Jordan, “This is a public safety issue,” by Toni Smith, Roman and Crumrine with LAS VEGAS said FWC Maj. Camille Sov- Crum- operating a vessel for hire within erel. “The FWC’s Division of Law rine. The state waters to allow passengers Enforcement wants to ensure boat was to observe fish feeding. Jordan these beautiful coastal waters used by and Roman were also charged remain safe for divers.” the Lake with fish feeding. These are sec- FWC investigators and the Park- ond-degree misdemeanors, pun- Palm Beach County Sheriff’s based ishable by up to 60 days in jail and facebook.com/demashow | twitter.com/dema_show | linkedin.com/company/dema-org | youtube.com/user/DEMAAssn | pinterest.com/demashow Office (PBSO), working jointly, compa- a fine of up to US$500. ■

19 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel news India to develop dive tourism on Andaman, Nicobar and Lakshadweep Islands [email protected] * (+27) 83 303 8373 *www.africatour.co.za Our adventures in Africa are as varied and In a push to “augment country’s beach and diving tourism”, the comprehensive as can be, providing explorers the chance to spot the big five, delve into the Indian government plans big upgrade to infrastructure and better region’s amazing—and still vibrant—human history, and simply stare in gobsmacked awe at airport facilities. the stunning beauty of one of our planet’s most Edited by treasured places. Africa beckons. Don’t make it Scott Bennett wait. “We have identified [four] islands for a cost of Rs6 billion (US$99.8 million),” *Climb Kilimanjaro *Gorilla Trekking [Uganda & Rwanda] *Sardine development. A large number of tourist said AM Hussain, assistant director of Adventure *African Island Scuba & *Serengeti Safari *Shark attractions exists across the Andaman Lakshadweep Tourism. Other islands in Adventure *Tailor made Safari & Bush Experience *Luxury Tenting *Eco Travel *Community Development and Nicobar Islands, but we are plan- the cluster offer scuba diving, snorkelling Tailor made trips to suite your requirements ning to do more to attract tourists,” said and windsurfing. www.sardinerun.webs.com AK Singh, lieutenant governor of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Tourist-friendly infrastructure offering scuba diving and water sport options In addition, the government plans should be completed by 2016. Night to build beach resorts and water landing facilities would be developed sports facilities on three uninhabited at Andaman and Nicobar’s Port Blair Lakshadweep islands located in the airport by the third quarter of 2014

Arabian Sea. “Thinnakkara, Suheli Par to allow the stopover of international Skype: sonja.newlands and Cherium are the three islands in flights. Currently, 96 flights pass the air- Lakshadweep where we are plan- port every day but none land there. ■ ning to build tourism infrastructure at

New Zealand reigns in shark diving operators Shark cage-diving operators in New Zealand will now be regulated after fears that lives were being put at risk.

Conservation Minister Nick Smith Stewart Island is the third-largest the island’s only town Oban. said a permit system under the island of New Zealand. It lies 30 Companies offering tourists the Wildlife Act was needed to ensure kilometres (19mi) south of the opportunity to dive with great cage diving was done responsi- South Island, across Foveaux Strait. whites will need to apply for a bly. Every year between December permit and follow a code of com- and June, 100 great whites travel pliance by the end of the year. The move comes after locals to the Foveaux Strait to feed off a Both Stewart Island shark cage on Stewart Island accused the large colony of fur seals. diving operators are said to have island’s cage-diving firms of oper- welcomed the rules. ating in a way that has led to Viewing the predators underwa- a change in the behaviour of ter has become a major tour- Owing to an anomaly in the mag- sharks, leading to more interac- ist attraction for the little island, netic latitude contours, this loca- tions between the predators and which has a population of less tion is well placed for observing divers. than 400, most of which live in Aurora australis. ■

Shark cage diving is becom- ing a still more popular thrill. This image is from Guadaloupe Island off the Mexican coast ANDREY BIZYUKIN ANDREY 20 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel news customers do not seem so much to hold back out of concerns for the security situation per se. Rather what seem to be at play are the uncertainties surrounding govern- ment travel advisories, which may change at a later stage forcing families—who are often limited to go on vacation during public school holidays—to either outright cancel their holiday all together or find other options at a stage where the alternatives may be sold out or come at a premium rate. Conse- quently to err on the side of cau- tion, they book vacations to alter- native destinations. Meanwhile the Egyptian hospital- ity industry and with it, the many Red Sea operators, are left high and dry, seeing their livelihoods dry up for lack of customers. PETER SYMES Insurance may be void Taba Heights in the Northern Sinai—an area which is now affected by travel advisories issued by a number of Western governments—was a peaceful and pleasant It should also be noted that while- location to vistit flights, hotels and operators ap- pear to remain readily available for online bookings and some nationali- Rising militancy in the Sinai becomes an issue for Red Sea dive operators ties are still in the green to go, travel insurances will often become void if Egyptian government has stated Islamist militants in the Sinai Peninsula are becoming a threat to foreign tourists. one chooses to disregard an official travel advisory and venture into an Egyptian officials say they are tak- Sheikh. Meanwhile the resorts along paratus—in particular around tourist latter years, militants in the Sinai area contrary to a warning, howev- ing seriously a reported ultimatum the Red Sea’s west coast such as attractions and resort areas —an have become a growing issue and er peaceful and safe it may appear by Islamist militant group Ansar Beit Hurghada, Safaga, El Quesir, and effort which was ramped up further the security issues have shifted east- and probably be. al-Maqdis for tourists to leave the Marsa Alam are currently in the following the 2005 Sharm el-Sheikh wards. As Egypt and the Red Sea offer country. clear, as this issue goes to press, attacks and the 2006 Dahab bomb- some of the best diving on the plan- but all travellers are advised to ings. Who cares? et, we can only hope that matters Ambigous reactions stay updated and check the latest Despite of these incidences, the To some extent the predominantly once again settle down, as they Meanwhile and following the dead- advice before travelling. Red Sea resorts have generally European tourists who have taken always seem to do, and we can ly bombing of a Tour bus that in been safe—and felt safe, as far as to the Red Sea for its affordable get back to some sort of normalcy February killed three South Koreans It is certainly not the first time the our own experiences go. holidays at nice hotels, guarantee in this regard. In the meantime, do and an Egyptian driver in Taba country, which is massively depend- of sunshine and short flights, seem to check with the offical travel adviso- near the Israeli border, a number of ent on its tourist industry for rev- So what has changed? have largely reconciled themselves ries. western nations such as Germany enue, has been in the grips of terror Sinai, being primarily resort areas with these occassional disruptions have amended their travel advi- threats and forced to find ways to and located across the Gulf of Suez and disturbances, and the country When X-RAY MAG did a report from sories to also advise against all but both protect tourists and reassure far from the Nile Valley and any still remains a very popular destina- Taba Heights in 2012 (published in essential travel to all of Sinai includ- the general public that it is safe. main population centers, used to tion. However and somewhat unsur- issue #45) it was entitled Tranquility ing the resort areas around Sharm Since the 1997 attack at the tem- be an area that was exempt from prisingly, many travel agents have in Taba. It was peaceful, relaxing el Sheikh. Other countries such ples at Luxor, which killed 62 people, disturbances and risk, even during seen a significant dip in bookings and offered some really good shore as the United Kingdom still give a mostly tourists, the authorities have times of major troubles and unrest over the last year. Sources in the diving and macro photography op- green light for travel to Sharm el deployed a massive security ap- on the mainland. However in the travel industry tell X-RAY MAG that portunities. ■

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Sea Dragon 1200 Lumen Light with Micro Tray, perfect for compact cameras like GoPro® Cayman Islands

Sea Dragon gets new under- 2000 Lumen Light shown with SeaLife DC1400, includes water attraction new Flex-Connnect tray and grip Bronze sculpture placed on the bottom off Grand Cayman. Powerful new lights for dive, video or photo. Light for Divers lower and position the new any camera, any dive, any adventure. sculpture, Guardian of the Reef by Simon Morris, to the sea bottom in sealife-cameras.com West Bay, Grand Cayman. All pho- facebook.com/SeaLifeCameras tos this page by Ryan Canon

Now, where did your bag go!? We’ve all been there at one itunes.apple.com/us/app/ you that your luggage has time or another—arriving travel-radar-luggage-tracking. been found. Enter your itinerary at your holiday destination, An option with greater on the SuperSmartTag site euphoria turns to aggravation range capabilty is the Trace and airport staff will be able upon the discovery that your Me Luggage Tracker. Airline to view your travel plans and bags are missing in action. baggage services staff forward your luggage to your According to the International worldwide can enter the unique next destination. See: www. Air Transport Association (IATA), serial identification number into supersmarttag.com. about one percent of luggage the airline’s SITA WorldTracer Delta passengers can Guardian of the Reef is a new from the back of the breastplate, time, will actually become part of worldwide was mishandled unclaimed baggage record. download Fly Delta, a free bronze sculpture by Simon Morris, a dorsal fin protrudes. In the same the natural reef. last year, costing an estimated Once found, the owner will smartphone app that enables located in West Bay off Lighthouse way that a mermaid has both The symbolism in the sculpture US$2.6 billion. Fortunately, a be notified by SMS and email passengers to track their bags, Point on Grand Cayman Island. human and fish elements, the reflects the fragile state of the number of apps have arrived that the luggage is being even while in flight. Upon The 13-foot-tall statue is a sculpture transforms from human to oceans, which are in need of our on the scene to help alleviate held at a specific airline and entering the bag receipt representation of a mythological seahorse at the waist. The seahorse protection, but have been sorely the situation. The question is, just location. The owner can number, the number on your creature, the top half of which is tail is wrapped around a heavy neglected. how useful are they? then contact the airline for bag receipt, or scanning with a warrior-guardsman in Ancient bronze ring, which is attached to The sculpture was created in Apple’s solution is iBeacon, appropriate action. See: www. the barcode with your phone, Greco-Roman armour and a Roman column. This column acts a global limited edition of four which can be placed in tracemeluggagetracker.com. passengers can follow luggage decorated breastplate. The figure as the guardian’s sentry post. signed, dated and numbered your suitcase for short range SuperSmartTag features a from departure to arrival. The carries a circular shield and a The column is shattered and castings. The first of the numbered tracking. However, maximum code that reports your bag app is available for iPhone, staff atop of which is a globe aged, with several open spaces castings was bought by Jay and range is only 20m and can be online. Once the bag code is Windows Phone, Android and representing the world’s oceans. that reveal an inner cement Nancy Easterbrook, owners of hampered if it is packed too submitted, an e-mail or phone BlackBerry. Download at: www. The figure’s helmet is fashioned column, which will attract Divetech, a full-service dive resort deeply in your luggage. See: call will be received to notify delta.com. ■ into a stylized seahorse head, and encrusting marine life, and over on Grand Cayman. ■

22 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO The Surreal Shores of

GorontaloText and photos by Steve Jones Indonesia 23 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Gorontalo

Scenes from Gorontalo, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Spotted porcelain crab, Neopetrolisthes maculatus, in anemone (left); Side view (above) of squat anemone shrimp, Thor amboinensis; Close-up detail of tree soft coral, Dendronephthya sp., with diver (right). PREVIOUS PAGE: A very rare blue sea fan, Acanthogorgia sp., found below 45 metres depth, with diver, Gorontalo, Indonesia

Text and photos by Steve Jones Gorontalo Province lies on a penin- these few signs of the emergence www.millionfish.com sula extending from the northeast of modern day culture, Gorontalo of the flower-shaped island of City remains distinctly traditional and Barely beaten tracks are Sulawesi, reaching out towards the a world away from the usual hustle an increasingly rare find for Philippines. This peninsula, known as and bustle you expect to find in an the Minahasa, is bounded by the Indonesian city. travellers in this ever more Celebes Sea to the north and the Gulf Legend has it that when the seas accessible world. Yet on the of Tomini to the south, and it is on this subsided, Gorontalo appeared on a shores of Tomini Bay on the southern ocean boundary that the plateau amongst three surrounding Indonesian Island of Sulawesi, provincial capital, Gorontalo City, lies. mountains. Whether the legend is true The term City, however, is deceptive, or not, there is no denying that the one such place still exists. since Gorontalo is more akin to a rural landscape here is ruggedly beauti- Here the lesser explored town, where chickens risk all as they ful, comprising steep cliffs and valleys waters teem with the intensity cross roads that are traversed by over- that channel fresh water on a down- of the biodiversity found in this laden scooters and motorised rick- ward journey toward the sea, cutting shaws, known locally as bentor. swathes through the soft limestone on part of the world. The name Along the main streets, double- the way. It is at the coastline where of this place is Gorontalo, parked horse-drawn carts contrast the vulnerability of limestone to natu- an oasis often bypassed sharply with shops that hint at influ- ral erosion is most strongly evident and ences of the modern world—the the impact on the underwater topog- as visitors descend on the mobile phone accessory outlets raphy is dramatic. world famous destinations of that fuel Indonesia’s fascination with To the east and west of Gorontalo and Lembeh Strait mobile communications. This is an City, steep cliffs plummet vertically further up the Sulawesian obsession that has led the country into the sea and underwater chan- to become the world’s fourth largest nels and gulleys lead the way to the coastline. user of cellular phones. Yet, despite extreme depths of the bay. These are

24 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Gorontalo

Diver (left) looks into cavern at sponge; Diver (above) with one at the Salvador Dali sponges (Petrosia lignosa) which only grow with this intricate swirling surface pattern in Gorontalo waters. These sponges grow to up to 3m in length. Anemonefish in anemone (right)

often beautifully interlaced with cata- Tomini Bay is over 4,000 metres deep, digestive system and rely on their collar combs of chimneys, caverns and tunnels, and the seabed drops so rapidly that it cells to force water through their struc- providing refuge for some of Gorontalo’s is common to see open ocean species tures, bringing in nutrients and oxygen numerous species, some of which are such as whales, dolphins and strange and taking away carbon dioxide. Here in endemic. pelagic invertebrates close to the shore- Gorontalo’s depths they are able to grow line. A plummeting seascape so close to to enormous sizes. land also has other benefits, in providing Amongst Gorontalo’s healthy sponge a near-shore habitat for sessile species population, a phenomenon has occurred that would otherwise be vulnerable to that illustrates perfectly how local condi- shallow water wave action and therefore tions can influence evolution. The sponge in the depths they can thrive. in question is Petrosia lignosa, a species found only in Sulawesi and the Philippines Giant sponges and first described by renowned zoologist Descending past 20 meters, you enter the Henry Van Peters Wilson in 1925. domain of the giant sponges, firmly grip- In Gorontalo waters it grows with an ping the porous limestone while the nutri- intricate, deep swirling pattern etched ent rich currents wash over them. Simple on its surface, which so far has only multi-cellular animals rather than plants, been observed here. Local dive pioneer there are around 8,000 described species Rantje Allen was the first man to docu- of sponge, with the total number of spe- ment this unusual morphology and has cies thought to be upward of 15,000[1], christened the species with a name befit- classified collectively under the scientific ting the bizarre patterns—“Salavador phylum Porifera, which means “pore Dali”—named of course after the surreal- bearing”. ist Spanish painter. Filter feeders, they also lack any distinct These sponges come in various shapes Peacock mantis shrimp

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once rock-hard sponge begins However, it is known that by the to crumble, dissolve into dust and time you reach Lembeh Strait or disappear without a trace. even the nearby Togian Islands, Emphasising just how unex- the morphing of Petrosia lignosa plored these waters are, no one cannot be observed. has yet documented how far Allen recalls in his highly along the coastline this phe- acclaimed book, Gorontalo: nomenon occurs on this species. Hidden Paradise, of when he first

THIS PAGE: Several versions of the huge Salvador Dali sponges, with their unique swirling patterns, and sizes, the largest can be into the bay from Gorontalo’s only found in over three metres in length. All ocean facing walls in a seeming Gorontalo of them display the distinctive act of defiance against the cur- patterns, from juveniles of only rents, however living in such an 20cm in length to those that exposed location is not without its have reached gargantuan sizes. hazards. Occasionally even the “When I paint, The Salvador Dali’s have been mighty Dali succumbs to the rig- observed in two colours, a dark ours of ocean life, lose their grip the ocean roars. shade of brown, sometimes with on the wall and tumble away to Others merely a green tint, or light grey for the the depths. ones that dwell out of direct sun- Sadly, once fallen onto the paddle in their light. Allen has christened this vari- sea floor, these giants can no bath.” ety the albino Salvador. longer filter enough nutrients to The larger sponges extrude survive. Within a few weeks the Salvador Dali

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TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Diver and giant stonefish; Diver and ornate ghost pipefish on volcanic debris; Rare Coleman’s coral shrimp

confirmed the identity of the spe- cies. “Even though I was calling it the ‘Salvador Dali sponge,’ I suspected it had to have a proper name. So, we sent samples from two sponges to Nicole J. de Voogd of the Institute for Biodiversity and all Petrosid sponges are hard Local stewardship Ecosystem Dynamics, Zoological and rock-like. This particular The steep drop of the seabed has had Museum, University of Amsterdam. sponge species is peculiar another significant benefit, in helping to After looking at the maze of spi- to vertical walls in Indonesia. preserve Gorontalo’s pristine reefs and cules under a microscope, she was The wildly carved surface is coastline. The fishermen here are able to able to identify it as Petrosia ligno- a morphology only known to deploy handlines from their traditional out- sa. Our sponge expert says that Gorontalo. Divers can only rigger canoes and wrestle with species nor- the genus is aptly named since see the Salvador Dali sponge mally found offshore, such as the yellowfin petrosia means ‘stony hard’ and here.”[2] said Allen. tuna. Coupled with a lack of horizontal reef Broadclub cuttlefish Spinecheek anemonefish

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Diver and grand sea whip (above); Shorthead sabretooth (fang) blenny peering from a discarded plastic bottle (left)

cinema of dreams ral no-take zones as campaigns to deliver one simple much of the coast- message: “No coral, no fish, your line becomes inac- choice.” The message has hit cessible. home with many of the villages Finally, the reefs now showing evidence of a deep- of Gorontalo have rooted respect for the marine found ally in a group environment on which they are so of forward thinking indi- viduals who recognize that educa- surface area, this has negated the tion is the best long-term appeal of enormously destructive defence against poor practices such as blast fishing, a fishing practices. For the scourge of reefs in some parts of last ten years this group, Indonesia. which comprises repre- The fish stocks are also protected sentatives of the local by the huge waves that come government, students, and www.seacam.com when the winds change from staff from Miguel’s Diving westerlies to easterlies between Centre, have conducted May and October, imposing natu- regular public education Pair of robust ghost pipefish on volcanic sand

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dependent. Nowhere is this more evi- dent than in the villagers of Olele who have really taken governance of the reefs to their hearts. Having already established a village level Peacock razorfish Marine Park, they guard and police their own reef, driving away any unwel- vacuum the oceans, industry come visitors, sometimes even confiscating their policing groups all too often equipment. prove ineffective in leading The recent expansion of the parks boundaries positive change. Often heavily influenced by The author wishes to thank Rantje Allen, the has been observed to have led to a noticeable commercial agendas, their mandates are fre- staff of Miguels Diving Centre, Gorontalo, (www. rise in the number of large groupers, particularly quently distorted by those pushing for short term miguelsdiving.com) and the people of Olele vil- coronation lyre-tailed and tiger, plus large mid- profit rather than leaving a world that is fit for lage. More of Steve Jone’s work can be seen at night snappers. Populations of schooling fusiliers our descendants to inhabit. www.millionfish.com have increased also, further re-enforcing the Curiously, the human race continues to value of good marine stewardship. behave in a way that is at complete odds REFERENCES: Finding a balance between long term sus- with one of our strongest individual natural [1] HOOPER, J. N. A. & VAN SOEST, R. W. M. (2002) SYSTEMA tainability and short term gain will continue instincts, that of protecting our children at all PORIFERA. GUIDE TO THE SUPRASPECIFIC CLASSIFICATION to be a challenge for many other parts of costs. Yet on the surreal shores of Olele village OF SPONGES AND SPONGIOMORPHS (PORIFERA). PLENUM, Indonesia, yet the developed world has failed in Gorontalo, the enlightened community has NEW YORK. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Ornate anemone shrimp in anemone; on a far grander scale to get to grips with this taken a huge step towards finding that bal- [2] ALLEN, RANTJE. GORONTALO: HIDDEN PARADISE, ISBN: Diver and bright red soft coral and sponge hanging from roof of cave; dilemma. Whilst modern fishing fleets efficiently ance. ■ 9789810561291 Sarasvati anemone shrimp; Diver and cabbage coral mountain

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English, Spanish and German are spoken.

Health There is a high degree fact file of risk for food or waterborne diseases such as bacterial Indonesia RIGHT: Global diarrhea, hepatitis A and E, map with location and typhoid fever, as well as of Gorontalo vectorborne diseases such BELOW: Location as chikungunya, dengue of Gorontalo on fever and malaria. Check map of Indonesia with WHO or your dive BOTTOM RIGHT: SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, Lionfish, Gorontalo, operator for prophalaxis NORTH-SULAWESI.ORG, D. SILCOCK Indonesia recommendations. Larium is not effective. Bring insect History Moslem merchants from Indonesia from 1966 repellents containing DEET. Persia began visiting Indonesia in until 1988. Suharto THAILAND VIETNAM PHILIPPINES Philippine International Certificate of South Sea the 13th century and established was toppled in China Vaccination required for Yellow trade links between this coun- 1998 following a Sea Fever if arriving from infected NORTH try and India and Persia. Along round of riots, and BRUNEI area within five days. MALAYSIA PACIFIC with trade, they propagated in 1999, free and Medan Celebes OCEAN MALAYSIA Sea Islam among the Indonesian fair legislative elec- Borneo Decompression people, particularly along the tions took place. Pekanbaru SINGAPORE machines in chamber Equator PAPUA coastal areas of Java. In 1511, Indonesia is the M tourist areas offer the Manado: Malalayang Hospital Padang Sumatra Pontianak Biak NEW O West GUINEA the Portuguese arrived in search world’s third most Kalimantan Sulawesi Papua best exchange rates, tel: +62 0811 430913 Banarmasin L of spices after their conquest of populous democ- U Papua Travellers cheques are Makassar: Rumah Sakit Umum Palembang the Islamic Empire of Malacca. racy, Government: C Ambon becoming quite dif- Wahidin Sudirohusodo C NEW GUINEA They were followed by the Republic. Capital: JAKARTA Makassar A ficult to use except tel: +62 0411 (584677) or 584675 Spaniards. Both began to propa- Jakarta. Semarang Banda Sea S at banks. Exchange Bandung Surbaya gate Christianity and were most Java rates: 1EUR=12,723IDR; Travel/Visa/Security INDIAN Arafura Denpasar TIMOR-LESTE successful in Minahasa/North Geography OCEAN Kupang Sea 1USD= 9,737IDR; Passport valid for six months Sulawesi and Maluku, also known Located in Timor 1GBP=15,127IDR; beyond intended stay is required. as the Moluccas. However, it Southeastern Sea 1AUD= 9,972IDR; 1SGD= There is a Visa-On-Arrival for 35 wasn’t until the arrival of the Asia, Indonesia is AUSTRALIA 7,908IDR countries including USA, UK, most Dutch in the early 17th century an archipelago European and Asian countries. It is that Christianity became the situated between Population US$25 for a stay of up to 30 days. predominant religion of North the Indian and Pacific Oceans. urban air pollution, deforesta- advances were made with sig- 251,160,124 (July 2013 est.) Although there is an active inde- Sulawesi. From 1942 to 1945, Coastline: 54,716km. Terrain con- tion, smoke and haze due to for- nificant financial reforms. In 2009, Ethnic groups: Javanese 40.6%, pendence movement in Papua, Japan occupied Indonesia. sists primarily of coastal lowlands, est fires. Logging—the rainforests when the global financial crisis hit, Sundanese 15%, Madurese 3.3%, tourists have not been impacted. Shortly before Japan’s surrender in with interior mountains on larger within the combined West Papua/ Indonesia fared well compared to Minangkabau 2.7%, Betawi 2.4%, WWII, Indonesia declared its inde- islands. Papua New Guinea land mass its regional neighbors. It was one Bugis 2.4%, Banten 2%, Banjar Web sites pendence. However, it took four are second in size only to those of the only G20 members posting 1.7% (2000 census). Religions: Indonesia Travel years of often brutal fighting, spo- Climate Tropical, hot and of the Amazon, making it ‘the growth in 2009, alongside China Muslim 86.1%, Protestant 5.7%, www.indonesia.travel/en radic negotiations, and media- humid, with more moderate cli- lungs of Asia’. In 2001, there were and India. However, the govern- Roman Catholic 3%, Hindu 1.8% tion by the United Nations before mate in the highlands. The water 57 forest concession-holders in ment still faces ongoing chal- (2000 census). Note: Indonesia is the Netherlands finally agreed in temperature is normally 28-29°C operation around the country lenges of improving the country’s the largest Muslim country in the 1949 to transfer sovereignty. Strife (84-86°F) year round, with an and untold other forest ventures insufficient infrastructure, labor world. Visitors are encouraged to continued in Indonesia’s unsta- occasional “chilly” 27°C (82°F) operating illegally. Mining—tailings unrest over wages, and high oil respect local traditions and dress ble parliamentary democracy spot. Most divers use 1mm neo- from copper, nickel, and gold prices affecting fuel subsidy pro- modestly. Internet users: 20 million until President Soekarno declared prene suits. However, some peo- mining are real threats. grams. (2009) martial law in 1957. Soekarno ple prefer 3mm. was removed from power fol- Economy A vast polyglot Currency Indonesian Rupiah Language Bahasa Indonesian lowing a fruitless coup in 1965 Environmental issues nation, Indonesia has experi- (IDR). Visa cards, Euros and U.S. is the official language, plus by alleged Communist sympa- Challenges include industrial enced modest economic growth Dollars (large bills issued after English, Dutch and local dia- thizers. President Suharto ruled waste water pollution, sewage, in recent years. Economic 1999) are widely accepted. ATM lects are spoken. In tourist areas,

30 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO The Best Shore Diving

CaymanText and photos by Brac Lawson Wood In The Caribbean

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Diver with sea turtle resting on reef. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver and wall with large sponges; Flamingo tongue (center inset)

Text and photos by Lawson Wood Whether entering these waters as a Brac Reef is home to the famous Reef novice or as a more experienced diver, Divers dive business, but there is a new First visited by Christopher what is obvious is that Cayman waters dive centre, The Brac Scuba Shack run Columbus in 1503, his reports have some of the clearest waters in the by the very experienced Martin & Liesel tell of incredible numbers of Caribbean, with very few currents they van der Touw that is now catering to fish, turtles and crocodiles are the ideal destination for virtually the larger number of shore divers who guaranteed results. The group of islands are coming to stay on the island. Offer- hence their original name sit atop three huge submarine moun- ing private boat charter and twin tank of Caimen or The Cayman tains and have incredibly deep water boat dives, they are perfectly suited for Islands. This British Crown Col- all around, resulting in any sedimenta- hiring and collecting your dive tanks for ony is located south of Cuba tion or particulate in the water to sink all the shore dives available, if you want in the central Caribbean and into the depths, keeping the coastal to cater for yourself without the limits of consists principally of three waters nice and clear all year round. time. Cayman Brac, Grand Cayman’s far- The Brac is roughly split into two, with islands: Grand Cayman, which thest sister island is known affectionately the flat area to the west of the island has the capital George Town as “the island that time forgot” and at where the airport and dive shops are and hosts her main airport; Lit- only 20 km long (12 miles) by just over located and the steep bluff with its tle Cayman Island and Cay- 1.6 km wide (1 mile) and with a resident remarkable ancient coral limestone cliff man Brac, which lie around population of only around 1500 people and caves at North East Point which 145km (90 miles) to the north- you can easily see why. There are only rises to 42 metres (140 feet). The word two hotels on the island: The Brac Reef “Brac” is Gaelic for “Bluff”. The locals east of Grand Cayman. Beach Resort and the Alexander. The are known as Brackers and the island is Diver on reef with a variety of coral growth, sponges and anemones, at Cayman Brac

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Peacock flounder; Diver in swim-through with silversides and sponges (right)

the smallest in the Caribbean to has small ‘barcaderes’—or boat host a full jet service. slips dating back several hundred With direct jet flights from years, where the famous Cat Miami into the Charles Kirkcon- Boats were built and launched. nel International Airport and a These small slipways are perfect large number of small B&B and for easy access onto the shallow rental apartments as well as the fringing and barrier reefs, plus, two resort hotels, Cayman Brac of course, the larger concrete has rapidly earned its reputation slipways and stepped entries for as the top shore diving island in more modern craft. Toilets and the entire Caribbean. (Bonaire picnic tables can be found at a used to hold this accolade, but a number of the shore sites, mak- number of the sites are often off ing things that bit more comfort- limits and several are quite diffi- able and with an almost total cult to undertake). lack of diver pollution, the shore diving to be found off Cayman North shore Brac is second to none. Weather The beauty of Cayman Brac is dependent, the south shore also that virtually the entire north shore has a number of boat ramps and

slipways as well as direct access to all of the inshore reefs and the main sheltered lagoon at the west end. The isolation of the Island has served it well. The corals are in good condition and there is a vast variety of marine life recorded in the registered 49 dive loca- tions with mooring buoys, including seven wrecks. Now a new local initiative has placed markers at many new shore div- ing locations. Marked with a small red stone and a number, these sites are dot- ted all around the island and certainly expand the variety of dives on offer to around 100 accessible dives, each with their own particular attributes and are not necessarily the same as any other along on the same bay. Diver on wall with large sponges at Cayman Brac; Captain Charlie’s Barcadere (right)

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Banded coral shrimp; over reef with sponge; Tarpon and school of silversides; Diamond-backed blenny

shore. This means that there are numerous large sponges. However the ferent species of juvenile fish large areas of sand flats with area tends to be ignored as many visit- which congregate together to small but very good quality coral ing divers opt for the boat dive option of make one huge mass of moving growths on the lower slopes. crossing the short distance to Little Cay- fish, found in the summer months. Lots of elk horn coral as well as man Island, this results in the reefs being This is a very interesting area for relatively under dived. invertebrates including file clams, nudibranchs, arrow crabs and Fry Cove. One of the best dives good quality sponges and sea is Fry Cave, located off Salt fans. Pistol shrimp can be found Water Point. Weather depend- amongst the coral rubble as well ent and with a moderate , as jawfish and yellow sting rays. the cave is on the same type This is similar to the reef off Pub- of rugged spur and groove reef lic Beach where there is a three and mini wall cut by many dif- tier reef structure starting in the South side ferent gullies and canyons. Lots shallows and ranging down to over 30m ily identified as it is directly out from a The southern sites on Cayman Brac also of elk horn and pillar corals in (100ft). curiously shaped building known as the resemble those on Grand Cayman, with good structure and form make ‘Bubble House’ and offers a shallow dive a classic spur and groove reef system, this a delightful dive. Snapper Prince Frederick wreck. When the sea with easy sight of the remnants of the but here it is more pronounced and the and sergeant majors make a is calm, the wreck of the Prince Freder- ship quite visible as there are a hand- wall starts around 20 metres (66ft). The nuisance of themselves. The fry ick which sunk in 1888 can be accessed ful of superb Trotman anchors, a steel wall is more gently sloping in this area of Fry Cave name are Silverside from the shore. It is situated about half mast, anchor winch, ‘ribs, hooks and and starts much further out from the minnows comprising of four dif- way down the south shore and is eas- knees’—are all identifiable with good Spotted butterflyfish

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Stern (above) of Captain Keith Tibbettes wreck and mooring line (right) on Topsy wreck nearby; Horse-eye jacks and wreck

coral growth and many varieties of Tibbetts after one fish. The entire south shore coastline of the islands nota- is accessible with some entries being ble men, is a must made off the ironshore edge and to dive. It is the others with easy access over a sandy largest shipwreck beach. The coast further to the east on all three islands has more difficult entry, but the results that can be reached from the shore. Charlie’s Reef. Charlie’s Reef is are superb as these sites are rarely, if Now referred to simply as the “356” another shore dive that can easily be ever, dived. this shipwreck is superb for all levels of accessed, leaving your vehicle on diver. the concrete dock; you are able to Captain Keith Tibbetts and Topsy The shore entry for this dive is from enter the water either by a fool hardy wreck. The majority of all dives are the sea pool at Buccaneer with very leap, or a more sedate entry from undertaken along the north shore easy entry and exit. This shoreline is the stainless steel steps. The wall here of Cayman Brac. Virtually all of the perfect for snorkelers, too, as they will starts fairly close to shore and whilst wreck sites are here, as well as some come across the wreckage from the many people are quite content to absolutely cracking reef dives, both Topsy in only a metre (3ft) of water. spend their time amongst the excel- down the wall and in the shallows The Topsy’s anchor is used as a moor- lent spur and groove reef formations, for your second dive each morning. ing for the day dive boats but is also most quite often opt for the longer Along the northwest shore can be handy as a visual aid for diving the swim out to the wall and a better found the wreck of the Russian Frig- site at night. chance to see large jacks, eagle rays ate #356, renamed the Captain Keith and sharks. Eagle ray gliding over sandy bottom

35 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Brac

Queen angelfish (top); Banded butterflyfish (above); Huge barrel sponges (right) on reef; French angelfish (low right)

Kissimmee wreck. Nearby is the Kissim- Barbara Ann wreck. The wreckage of mee wreck, located just northwest of the Barbara Ann, a former landing craft, Scott’s Pier, nearby the airport; it sits in is well spread out in the shallows, but it 12m (40ft) of water and is almost upside is superb as it has become its own little down. This retired tug boat was deliber- eco-system and is stuffed full of incred- ately sunk in 1982 as an addition to the ibly colourful sponges, sea fans, and tons reef system and provides an interest- of invertebrates and small fish species ing start to a shore dive that can take such as pufferfish, wrasse and various you out to the edge of the reef wall, as blennies and gobies. This is one of the this is the closest point on the island to few sites where you can always find undertake this type of dive. The wreck is juvenile queen anglefish and painted a favourite site for photographers, and lady cleaning shrimps. during the summer months, large num- bers of rays can be seen. This location Stake Bay. Further east along the coast is also superb for night dives as there is at Stake Bay are more superb shore div- easy access and the rock pier has over- ing sites. Stake Bay is where the island’s and there are some simply massive bar- head lights, which makes things easier government administration buildings rel sponges and ginormous seafans and for navigation. Here, we always find and museum are located, and there is soft corals. This site also has two sculp- octopus, squid, juvenile spotted drum a huge ramp and stepped slipway to ture structures, the first is of dolphins and fish and many species of shrimp. make access nice and easy. This region rays, and the second is a local artist of the north coast is quite protected, known as Foots and his rendition of his Kissimmee wreck rests almost upside down in 12m

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Burt Brothers. One of the best of areas to get kicked up by the shore dives along the northeast rough waters. is Burt Brothers, located opposite a small shop called NiM Things (Native Benefits of Brac Island Made). A concrete boat ramp Great emphasis has always is great for access, and from here, it been placed on the diving is just a short swim to some massive on Grand Cayman and the coral structures edged with deep- North Wall is outstanding, water gorgonians and their usual plus everyone raves about spider crabs. Hammerhead sharks Bloody Bay Wall on Little are seen here in January and Febru- Cayman Island, but many ary, but really it is the colourful and fail to appreciate the facts very good corals that make this dive that Cayman Brac has special. much smaller diver num- idea of Atlantis. There are statues, bers; more shore diving sites columns a huge sun dial and other Bluff. Under the ancient Bluff is making for unlimited shore artefacts. These are now all covered always the feather in a diver’s cap, and ; four major in sponge growth and make for an as it is very rare that the sea condi- wreck sites as shore dives interesting photographic backdrop. tions are so perfect to allow this div- and diving conditions and ing in an otherwise pristine diving reefs that more than match Cayman Brac Dock. The Cayman location. Scoured by storms, there all the other islands in the Brac Dock is off limits whilst it is open, are very few robust seafans or spong- Caribbean. but as you can imagine, when it is es as everything is low lying. Howev- With the island being only 20km ing; snorkelling; kayaking; windsurf- closed, it is accessible from either er, there are kazillions of featherdust- long (12mi) long, everything is so ing; fishing or generally laying back side and large schools of big barra- er worms, small nudibranchs, blen- close by that it makes the shore div- and enjoying the superb beaches cuda can be found hanging out in nies and gobies and an otherwise ing and snorkelling that much easier. along the south shore; rockpooling or the shade. The construction spoil is undived terrain of huge boulders, There is, in fact, very little else to do having fun getting drenched at the well overgrown, and you can always with interesting swimthroughs, various on the island, other than exploring blowholes. find a huge variety of tropical fish shipwrecks’ parts and simply stagger- the historic caves and caverns; visit- Each of the major families has a CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Arrow crab; Gaping grouper on and invertebrates. ing visibility, as there are no sandy ing the museum; birding; rock climb- provisions store of some sort and reef; Hawksbill sea turtle; Barred hamlet; Darkheaded blenny

37 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Octopus on reef; Diver and sea turtle on reef; Blue-striped grunt; Brac travel Boxfish; Pygmy filefish

the underwater vis- ibility is very rarely less that 30m (100ft). The temperature ranges from around 22°C (72°F) in December to 29°C (84°F) in July. Where to stay All of the accom- modation is similarly priced and styled. Apart from the indi- vidual self catering apartments and vil- las, the hotels have good restaurants attached, particularly the Brac private charter. They Reef Hotel, which is superb. also offer advice on Meals are generally buffet style all types of accom- and there is plenty of it, more modation. than enough for the active diver. Brac Reef Beach across. November each year. However, Lunches tend to be a local spicy Resort is a newly If you are not div- some of the best diving is also dish of fish or chicken, soup, salad refurbished hotel ing, then you are done in these same months as and a sweet of some kind as well with comfortable thinking about it, or the sea is generally at its most as fruit and soft drinks. rooms, complete wifi getting your cameras calm, there are less tourists and Many visiting divers keep the throughout the com- ready, or travelling better opportunities for marine life last afternoon free to off-gas and plex, with a swimming to or from a dive site. encounters. You can dive all year explore the caves and caverns pool, a raised deck Cayman Brac div- round, as the island has plenty of and obviously the local gift shops area and a great bar ing is similar to Grand great dive sites that are always for a piece of Caymanite jew- right on the beach. Cayman, without the available depending on wind ellery, or perhaps go exploring Its own dive centre is numbers of divers, and weather. along the shore to perhaps find situated next to the and for that reason, it One point to make here is that your own piece of Caymanite jetty. Reef Divers has has become a great rock or up on a well-stocked shop, and the of the island. Rooms are modern favourite with the the outer Bluff local photo pro, Ed Beaty, is on with wifi access, and the bar looks world’s diving fraterni- edge to catch hand to guide you through the to the east over a large brackish ty—particularly those those spectacu- many and varied steps of digital pond popular with wild fowl. ■ who prefer to dive lar sunsets. and all will sell homemade jams and away from the madding crowd. Brac Scuba videography. Barbecues are Lawson Wood is a widely pub- chutneys (in season) as well as Shack is a great common on the grounds and at lished underwater photographer the usual goods. I would recom- Best time to go dive shop with night downwards facing flood and author of many dive guides mend that you buy the local (very With air temperatures averag- excellent, quali- lights attract tarpon, squid and and books including The Cayman rare) Caymanite Rock jewellery; ing 30-40oC (80-90oF) in the sum- fied staff and stingrays into the shallows, a per- Islands: Complete Guide to Diving the island craftsmen are excel- mer, it can be hot and humid, catering for fect end to the day’s diving. and . For more informa- lent. The local residents are some and as always in the Caribbean, those who prefer The Alexander Hotel is located tion, visit: www.lawsonwood.com of the friendliest I have come hurricane season is from June to shore diving or near the beach at the west end

38 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO NASA Arrow crab

fact file RIGHT: Global map with location of the Cayman Islands Cayman Islands LOWER RIGHT: Location of Cayman Brac on map of the Cayman Islands. BELOW: Hawksbill sea turtle, Cayman Brac SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, CDC. GOV, LONDONDIVINGCHAMBER.CO.UK

bites such as Den- History During the 18th and solved and the Cayman Islands ed in the Caribbean. gue fever and Ra- 19th centuries, the British colo- decided to stay a British depend- Grand Cayman, Cayman Little The Bluff bies. Please check nized the Cayman Islands from ency. Government: Parliamentary Brac and Little Cayman lie Cayman Caribbean Sea with your doctor Jamaica whereby they were democracy. Capital: George in the Caribbean Sea, 268km Cayman about Tetanus shots administered after 1863. The Town, Grand Cayman Island. northwest of Jamaica and 240km Brac and updates on islands became a part of the south of Cuba. They are situated Grand health risks and re- Federation of the West Indies in Geography The three-island in an important location between Economy Cayman quired vaccines at 1959. In 1962, the Federation dis- group of the Caymans are locat- Central America and Cuba. There is no direct least 4-6 weeks prior Coastline: 160km. taxation on the to your trip to the Caribbean Sea Terrain is com- Cayman Islands so GEORGE TOWN Caymans. prised of a base it has become a of low-lying lime- prosporous offshore stone ringed by financial center. As Decompression coral reefs. of 2008, over 93,000 chambers companies were registered in 1EUR=1.13KYD; 1USD= .82KYD; On Grand Cayman: Climate The the Cayman Islands, including 1GBP=1.38KYD; 1AUD=.77KYD; Cayman Hyperbaric Services Cayman Islands nearly 300 banks, 800 insurance 1SGD=.65KYD Cayman Islands Hospital have a tropical companies and 10,000 mutual 24-Hour Phone: (345) 916-1198 marine climate, funds. In 1997, a stock exchange Population 251,160,124 (July which is warm was opened. Tourism is the main 2013 est.) Ethnic groups: mixed George Town Hospital and rainy in the industry, with 70% of GDP and 75% 40%, white 20%, black 20%, expats Phone: (345) 949-8600 summer from May of foreign currency income. The of various ethnic backgrounds to October, cool luxury market is the main focus 20%. Religions: Protestant 67.8%, Travel/Visa/Security and relatively of the tourist industry, catering Roman Catholic 14.1%, Jehovah’s Visas are not required for entry dry in winter from mostly to North American travel- Witness 1.1% (2010 est.). Internet for U.S. and Canadian visitors— November to lers. In 2008, there were over 1.9 users: 23,000 (2008) just proof of citizenship, such as a April. million tourist arrivals, half of them passport or official birth certificate, from the United States. While the Language English is the offi- as well as a photo identification Environmental locals enjoy a high standard of cial language. Other languages such as a driver’s licence. Visitors issues There are living, much like the Swiss, almost include Spanish and Filipino. from other countries should check no natural fresh- 90% of the Cayman Islands’ food with the nearest British embassy or water resources, and consumer goods have to be Health consulate for entry requirements. so drinking water imported. In the Caribbean, in general, is supplied by there is a risk of food and water Websites rainwater catch- Currency Caymanian dol- borne diseases suah as Hepatitis Cayman Islands Tourism ments. lars (KYD). Exchange rates: A, as well as disease from insect www.caymanislands.co.uk

39 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THE FACTS AND VIEWPOINTS IN THIS SECTION ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF X-RAY MAG. EQUIPMENT PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION HAS NOT BEEN TESTED BY X-RAY MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS WARRANTEED. INFORMATION PROVIDED IS CONDENSED FROM MANUFACTURERS’ DESCRIPTIONS. TEXTS ARE USUALLY EDITED FOR LENGTH, CLARITY AND STYLE. LINKS ARE ACTIVE AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION Scubagear SG POINT & CLICK The new SG regulator line ON BOLD LINKS from Subgear is equipped with a OFD valve (Optimal Flow Design) which the manufacturer states reducing air flow resistance by directing the flow of air around rather than through the spring Edited by resulting in a higher flow rate. Rosemary ‘Roz’ E. Lunn As there is no venturi vane in the mouthpiece area either, the air Equipment can flow directly to the mouth, with- out obstruction. The Venturi effect is elimi- Waterproof D6 nated due the angle of inflow. The SG regulator The D6 LITE ISS is a front-donning, light , nylon-based trilami- range comes in three 1st and 2nd stage combina- nate drysuit primarily designed for the travelling diver. We sus- tions, SG10, SG30 and SG50 (shown). Subgear.com pect this material will easily fold down into a small bundle for packing. Waterproof really understands anatomy, and the D6 LITE ISS is designed and cut with pre-bent legs to give a better fit when diving. Knowing how meticulous Stingray DiveRite QRM the folks at Waterproof are, it is no surprise that this is quite The StingRay utilises a solid This Quick Release Mount is rather a pretty suit, with lots of attention to detail. The D6 state switch, which has no clever, and I am not surprised that LITE ISS comes with adjustable braces, reinforced moving parts, and therefore, there is a patent pending on this. The shoulders and seat, double stitched seams, no chance of flooding! The QRM gives you various options for mount- silicone neck and wrist seal system, zip cover StingRay has Cree XM-L2 LEDs, ing your Dive Rite lights. Dive Rite states and cordura knee pads and crotch panel. which are the brightest and most it can be fitted to any of its lights and is Waterproof has fitted Exlite boots that are efficient bulbs on the market. The available in two versions: a soft handmount apparently extra light, flexible and have a torches are all double hard anodized, or a Goodman handmount. I suspect that ridged heelstrap. www.waterproof.eu come with a lantern-style handle and you can also fit the QRM to lights from other most importantly have an anti-reflective/ manufacturers, too. The QRM uses a system of anti-fog coated lens. All of these improve- rollers and bands to easily clip a light head into Oceanic Omega ments have resulted in the best torch I have the mount. Once you have played with it a cou- The unhanded Omega regulator is back! Oceanic come across to date. sealantern.com ple of times, it is easy to use. You can fit additional has recently launched its ambidextrous, side-venting QRM receivers on your equipment, giving you the Omega 3 FDXi demand valve. The environmentally option of moving a sealed, balanced, lightweight First Stage has four light from your hand- Low Pressure Ports, two High Pressure Ports, and mount onto a helmet or the reg can be dived with up to 40% Enriched DPV. And you can fit QRM Air (EANx) straight from the box. strikers onto backup lights, Oceanic states that it offers high giving you the option of using performance regardless of depth them with the same handmount or or tank pressure. Apparently, receiver. diverite.com the in-line design of the first stage helps to improve flow efficiency by limiting the directional changes that gases must navigate dur- ing its journey to the second stage. In other words, the fewer right angle turns, the better the flow. Available in all black, or a black and white body. oceanicworldwide.com

40 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Tek-Tite 200 Nerd We first saw the Shearwater NERD (Near Eye Remote Display) during field LED Strobe trials at Divetech’s Inner Space last year and were pretty impressed. The Tek-Tite strobes are NERD ticks all the boxes for the ‘kit monster’ diver. It has that ‘shiny toy’ popular with recrea- factor and it performs. What makes the NERD attractive to rebreather tional, technical and divers is the sheer amount of information it conveys in an easy to read military divers and fire format. Instead of a basic HUD (head up display) that shows a series fighters worldwide. Their of different coloured LED lights (primarily green or red) that flash or are latest offering—the Tek- static, you get the useful data you really want. It seems as though the Tite 200 LED Strobe—fea- data is displayed on a 32-inch TV screen a mere 12 inches away tures a 7-Watt LED strobe from your eye. Crucially, the display is unobtrusive, so it virtu- module. Tek-Tite states that ally disappears when you look straight ahead. The Shearwater this strobe is more durable NERD displays the same information as the and benefits from an improved Petrel diving computer, with key warnings flash rate and lamp life when displayed in a different colour. it is compared to the previous shearwaterresearch.com Xenon version and other com- peting Xenon strobes. One fac- tor will certainly appeal to divers. There are no fragile glass tubes that can easily be broken because this strobe uses a high-intensity LED strobe module. It is rated to 150 metres (500 feet) and the two C-cell alkaline batteries should burn for approximately 30 hours. The strobe itself is meant to last 10,000+ hours or 36+ million flashes. I wonder who

counted them all? Tek-tite.com Scuabfest A6.indd 1 12/02/2014 12:17

SUB-30 SUB-30 is specifically formulated liquid detergent for use at low Masterdry temperatures, hence the name Seac’s latest neoprene offering (30 degrees centigrade and is called the Masterdry. Perhaps under). It should help eliminate it is a drier suit because of the sweat, bacteria and unpleasant Anilao, Batangas, Philippines location of the zip? The Titex zip on odours from technical fabrics, this 7mm semi- runs across the and you can have the option shoulders, with the “mastersealzipper” of hand or machine washing. It is protected by two rows of stitched good to see that the environment binding that meet. Suit protection and packaging has also been doesn’t stop there. Key areas such considered. SUB-30 not only looks as the knees, shoulders and seat are after your technical garments, it is reinforced with Supratex, whilst the gentle because it does not contain back benefits from a large padded optical bleach, phosphates, zeolites spine pad. Seac has ultised ultra-elas- or fabric softener. Fourth Element tic Smooth Skin for their wrist and ankle states the 480ml bottle will do approx- seals. The suit comes with complete imately 12 washes. Once empty, you with a roomy zipped pocket on the leg can cut the shrink-wrap off and recy- and a separate hood. Seacsub.com cle the bottle. Fourthelement.com [email protected] DIVECBR.COM

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Text and photos by Gareth Lock In August 2012, I wrote an arti- cle which discussed just culture and what this meant in the con- text of recreational and techni- cal scuba diving, and using this concept, how we can improve . The main thrust behind the article was that eve- ryone makes mistakes, irrespec- tive of who we are in the diving community, what our experi- ence levels are or what quali- fications we hold. To improve learning, we need to stop throw- ing rocks at those who have the courage to discuss their incident in a public forum or report it to What Is It & Do I have it? DAN, BSAC or DISMS. Sure, many people make silly mistakes or poor decisions, which ultimately cost them their lives. But those Safety Culture individuals didn’t get up that to improve their safety. The funny thing What is a culture? ety and education.” (Horbury 1996) So what is a safety culture? morning thinking, “I know, today is that a culture is something that is at “Shared values (what is important) and A culture, therefore, isn’t just about A safety culture is made up a number appears to be a good day to the core of a community or group; it is beliefs (how things work) that interact communicating ways of improving of component parts, and over the next ‘the way things are done around here’. with an organisation’s structure and things, it is about demonstrating, influenc- three issues of X-RAY MAG, I am going die.” (Williams et al, 1994). control systems to produce behavioural ing, behaving in a manner which shows to expand on these concepts in a man- Whilst a culture can be developed and norms (the way we do things around that the community has the ‘right way of ner that allows the global diving com- But just culture is only one part of a influenced from the bottom up, the main here).” Bro Uttal (1983) doing things’ at its core, not just talking munity to address each of them, to safety culture, a term which is being influence comes from the leadership, top “Culture is not the product of com- about it. Part of the problem we have ultimately make diving safer, and as a promoted by a number of organisations down. Ironically, developing a safety cul- munication, as culture is affected by within the diving community is that there result, more enjoyable. These compo- and individuals as something that needs ture means that you are improving other more than the organisation’s contribution are a number of ‘right ways’ of doing nent parts were developed by Professor to be developed by individual divers divers’ safety as much as your own. including social background, history, soci- things, and we all believe we are right! James Reason (of ‘Swiss Cheese Model’

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fame) when examining High you end the dive ascending as duced, safety can be improved LIGHTWEIGHT Reliability Organisations (HRO), per your decompression plan, all by challenging poor deci- such as civil aviation and air traf- with your buddy or team mate if sion making such that we feel fic management. Whilst these are that was the plan. wronged when we don’t con- heavily regulated environments All the agencies provide guide- form—e.g. buddy checks are not and many would argue we don’t lines for best practice, and pro- the norm on some commercial CHAMPION need that in scuba diving, the vide standards for their instructors dive operations and we feel odd premises are the same, culture is to follow, but unfortunately there doing them when no-one else is, (only 2kg) culture, how we do things around is evidence to show that group yet we shouldn’t feel this way. here. behaviour tends towards more As an aside, I would violently risky behaviour if there isn’t a Main components agree that we don’t need any strong positive influence or cul- The five main components of a more regulation. Whilst they ture; this is known as risky shift. safety culture are outlined below: provide a framework, I believe I am sure you have been on they also introduce a reduction a trip where, at the start of the Just Culture – a culture of ‘no in personal responsibility for our week, all the checks are done blame’ where an atmosphere of own actions. An area that can correctly. But as time ticks on, the trust is present and people are be developed further is that of checks get more lax, minimum encouraged or even rewarded risk perception and acceptance, gas limits are extended, and by for providing essential safety- but more of that in another article the end of the week, it is almost related information—but where looking at the psychology of inci- ‘grab the cylinder and get in the there is also a clear line between dents and safety. water, it will be okay’. acceptable and unacceptable D9 BREATHABLE All divers should take personal Therefore, if we can improve behaviour; • 4-Layer Breathable Ultra light shell • Flexible TIZIP Master Seal Front zipper • Fabric socks • Quick-Dry • Latex seals • Warm cuffs • SI TECH valves • Telescope Torso • Seam free crotch • responsibility for their actions, and group behaviour towards a safer Fabric socks • Integrated suspenders • Pre-bent knees • Knee reinforcement • Zipper cover not rely on someone else; you do outcome, then safety will be Reporting Culture – a culture in your checks, you get in the water, improved. Furthermore, when which people are willing to report www.waterproof.eu you dive, you check your gas, positive peer pressure is intro- errors and near misses;

43 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO SAFETY CULTURE opinion GENERATIVE Safety behaviour is fully inte- grated into everything the organisation does.The value silver system associated with safety and safe working is fully inter- nalised as beliefs,almost to the point of invisibility.

PROACTIVE The organisation has systems in place to manage hazards and staff, and management have begun to acquire beliefs that safety is genuinely worthwhile.

CALCULATIVE The organisation has systems in place to manage hazards, howev- er the system is applied mechani- cally. Staff and management follow the procedures but do not neces- sarily believe those procedures are Learning Culture – the willingness inextricably linked, and the final approach to safety, clubs, groups critically important to their jobs or the and the competence to draw the article will cover learning and or groups of friends are all organi- operation. right conclusions from its safety informed cultures. sations, too, albeit loosely associ- information system, and the will ated organisations. to implement major reforms when Types of safety culture Consider two groups, one a cinema of dreams the need is indicated; Consider the diagram (right), loose group of friends who dive REACTIVE which is based on Hudson’s work together, the other a dive centre The organisation looks for fixes to acci- Informed Culture – one in which on safety culture. Where do you in a busy location. The group of dents and incidents after they happen. those who manage and operate think you are on this step-ladder? divers knows the ‘rules’ of best the system have current knowl- Where do you think your dive cen- practice: they always analyse their edge about the human, techni- tre is? What about your favoured gas and mark the results on the cal, organisational and environ- training organisation? cylinder; they decompress togeth- PATHOLOGICAL mental factors that determine the Just because there are quality er using the same computers using The organisation cares less about safety safety of the system as a whole; management systems in place to the same decompression model than about not being caught. ensure that instructors are teach- and safety factors; they practice Flexible Culture – one which can ing the correct skills, or even a skills and drills on most dives; they take different forms but is charac- safety policy at work which shows debrief and learn from events terised as shifting from the con- compliance with the local Health on the dive; if they have an inci- Types of safety culture, based on Hudson’s work ventional hierarchical mode to a and Safety regulation, it doesn’t dent, they report it to their parent flatter professional structure. necessarily mean we have a organisation, or another body, good safety culture as shown by so that others can learn from the maintaining or improving safety. not, there is no shame in chal- www.seacam.com This article will cover safety culture the descriptors in the diagram. error/mistake/incident. Importantly, they expect certain lenging that person; rules provides in general, the next will discuss Whilst Hudson’s work was focussed They have a culture amongst activities to be completed in a a baseline to operate from and just and reporting cultures as they on formal organisations and their them, which is positive towards certain way, and when they are make the normalisation of devi-

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ance harder to accept. part of that culture. If you feel strongly Gareth Lock is an accomplished techni- A dive centre where: they are very wor- enough about improving the safety cul- cal diver based in the United Kingdom. ried about profit and foot-fall; they are ture, you need to help develop it. Currently serving in the Royal Air Force, trying to get people through the door and If you see something which doesn’t look Lock is undertaking a part-time PhD certified to generate revenue; students right, stand up and be counted. If you are examining the role of human fac- are passed at the absolutely minimum on a and things aren’t right, tors in scuba diving incidents. For more level of standards; they do not have speak to the organiser or the tour opera- information, visit the Cognitas Incident equipment serviced regularly because tor. If enough people critique the situa- Research & Management website at: there are no local regulations requiring it; tion, something will be done, because ulti- Cognitasresearch.wordpress.com they might have a number of divers who mately, clients won’t come back if things have been injured or suffered DCS but don’t improve. However, for safety culture REFERENCES: never reported them because it is ‘bad to really flourish, it requires significant com- HORBURY, CRJ. ORGANISATIONAL CHANGE for business’—this dive centre has never mitment from the senior players in the AND SAFETY CULTURE: THE IMPACT OF had a bad QA report because all of their community, and organisational change is COMMUNICATION. ASTON UNIVERSITY, 1996. students loved their experience, although hard and takes time. That doesn’t mean HUDSON, P. SAFETY CULTURE: THEORY AND they are not sure that diving is for them. we shouldn’t stop trying though! PRACTICE. CENTRE FOR SAFETY SCIENCE In the next article, we will look at the UNIVERSITEIT LEIDEN, 2001. Rules role of a Just Culture and a Reporting UTTAL, BRO. THE CORPORATE CULTURE VULTURES. ‘Rules’ can be developed within whatever Culture and show how it is so important FORTUNE 108.8, 1983. construct or environment you are diving to develop both of these in parallel. WILLIAMS, A., DOBSON, P. & WALTERS, M. in. A dive centre, a training organisation, However, because these are subsets of CHANGING CULTURE: NEW ORGANISATIONAL an expedition, a small team or regular the wider safety culture, there is need for APPROACHES. CROMWELL PRESS, WILTSHIRE, group of divers all have their own cultures, commitment from the higher organisations 1994. and if you are part of that group, you are for these sub-cultures to develop. ■

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Edited by Kelly LaClaire Japanese whaling shut down by International Court of Justice

In late March a U.N. court After much deliberation, the made a monumental rul- court declared that while JARPA ing that the Japanese II could broadly be characterized as “scientific research”, the actual government must immedi- scientific output from the program ately halt its whaling activ- was severely limited, and Japan ities in the Antarctic. had not sufficiently justified the whaling quotas it had set.

The International Court of Justice Australia delighted agreed with Australia, which – Japan disappointed AUSTRALIAN CUSTOMS AND BORDER PROTECTION SERVICE / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS brought the case in May of 2010, Reading the court’s judgment, George Brandis stated that rela- Japan accepts whaling in 1986, but continued activities—mostly selling its whale that the program was not for presiding Judge Peter Tomka tions between Australia and Foreign Minister Fumio Kishida whaling in the north and south meat to Japan who contends scientific research as originally announced the court had decid- Japan would not suffer as a result, said, “We want to accept this Pacific under provisions that that minke whales and a number claimed by Tokyo. ed, by a vote of 12 to 4, that and current Prime Minister Tony from a position that respects the allowed for scientific research of other species are plentiful and Australia argued that the pro- Japan must withdraw all permits Abbott is still planning trade talks international legal order,” but and by law can still continue that its whaling activities are sus- gram, known as JARPA II, was just and licenses for whaling in the in Japan later in April. Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries whaling if it revises its scientific tainable. commercial whaling in disguise, Antarctic seas and disregard any Minister Yoshimasa Hayashi stated program or withdraws from the claiming that Japan had killed new permits already issued. Conversely, Japanese spokesmen that whale meat was “an impor- International Whaling Commission. As expected, anti-whaling activ- around 3,600 minke whales since Following the ruling, former told reporters that their govern- tant source of food, and the ists Sea Shepherd were overjoyed. 2005. Australian Prime Minister Kevin ment was “deeply disappointed” government’s position to use it If Tokyo does so, they will join both Their official statement said: Japan, in turn, protested that Rudd (whose labor government in the verdict, and Tokyo would based on scientific facts has not Norway and Iceland, who have “We’ve been saying for ten years the suit brought by Australia was originated the case) said he was consider its response “after care- changed”. vocally rejected the International that this is an illegal whale hunt an attempt to impose its cultural “delighted by the result”, while fully examining the contents of Whaling Commission and con- and the court has proven that norms on Japan. Australia’s Attorney-General the ruling”. Japan signed a moratorium on tinue their commercial whaling case.” ■ SOURCE: BBC NEWS

46 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Xray_V_Revised_PATH.pdf 1 20/12/13 5:16 pm marine mammals Australian researchers track pygmy blue whales

For the first time in recorded history, sci- entists have tracked the route taken by pygmy blue whales during their annual migration.

Researchers from the Australian Antarctic Division tagged 11 whales in April 2009 and March 2011and identified the previously unknown migratory route from the Austra- lian coastline into Indonesia.

The study results, published in PLOS ONE , will allow scientists to assess how human activities might impact the whales during their 10,000 kilometer migration.

Dr Mike Double, Australian Antarctic Divi- sion marine scientist and lead author of

the research, said the study data could beC

used to identify and manage various risksM

within the pygmy blue whale range—thingsY like boat traffic, oil and gas platforms, as CM FRITZ GELLER-GRIMM / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS well as increased ocean noise from com- mercial shipping and fishing. MY Female humpbacks stick to shallow water to avoid sexual harassment CY “This is particularly important,” Double CMY According to a new study, female “Our study suggests that unwanted rather than just avoiding common said. “Pygmy blue whales were targetedK humpback whales with calves pur- male attention causes females and predators. by commercial and illegal whalers prior to posefully keep to shallow waters to calves to increase their swimming the moratorium on whaling, and we don’t avoid sexual harassment. speed, so mothers need to supply Craig said there was no definite know if the population has recovered.” their calves with more milk to com- explanation as to why humpback Dr Alison Craig, a marine mammal pensate for the extra energy they’ve males were less likely to pursue Curt Jenner, a study collaborator from specialist from Edinburgh Napier used,” said Craig. “Females don’t eat new mothers into shallower waters, the Centre for Whale Research in Western University, led the research with col- while they’re in tropical waters, which although a reduced number of suit- Australia, said the study brings to light the leagues Prof. Louis Herman and Dr means that they need to break down able mates is the likely reason. importance of international cooperation Adam Pack from the University of their own blubber to produce milk. with ongoing conservation and manage- Hawaii and The Dolphin Institute. Their milk is the only food source for “There are no long-term social bonds ment efforts in both Australian and Indone- the calves at this time, so you can see between male and female whales, sian waters. The study data, gathered around the why saving energy is so important to and the males approach lots of Hawaiian Islands, showed females females with a young calf. It could females in the hope that they will “When migratory animals routinely cross with a calf were often pursued by potentially increase the calf’s chanc- get the chance to mate,” she said. international borders, international coop- males in deeper waters, meaning es of surviving the migration from “Females who don’t have newborn eration is needed to implement conserva- the mother and calf had to increase the breeding grounds to the feeding calves are more likely to ovulate than tion strategies that use information on habi- their swimming speed by 75 percent grounds.” new mothers, and these females with- tat use and movement patterns,” he said. and causing new mothers to head for out calves occur in deeper waters. “A combined approach by industry and shallower waters. Previous research has shown that So if males follow mothers into shal- managers when accounting for the move- groups containing a calf tended to lower waters they will be less likely to ments of the pygmy blue whale utilising The scientists concluded that avoiding be found in shallower water, however, encounter ovulating females and so Australian and Indonesian waters will allow amorous and aggressive males assist- Craig’s study is the first to specifically will have less chance of fathering a the recovery of this previously exploited ed the females in energy conserva- question whether this is due to moth- calf.” ■ SOURCE: BBC NEWS species.” ■ SOURCE: WILDLIFE EXTRA NEWS tion, helping their offspring to survive. ers actively avoiding passionate males

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TextAntarctica by Yoland Bosiger. Photos by Yoland Bosiger and Jerry Sutton Addition photos by Erin McFadden and Chris Thrall 48 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO JERRY SUTTON Iceberg palaces glimmer in the sun. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver Antarctica feature bubbles rise against a back- ground of ice

On our journey north of the polar circle, my fellow adven- turers and I were greeted by an astonishing spectacle. Over 20 orca were hunting an animal so rare that few people have seen them in the wild, let alone had the chance to study them. Using immense strength, agility and cunning intelligence, the orca worked as a team to hold the Arnoux’s beaked whale under water to drown it. This was a story of nature at its most raw, untouched and unforgiving—a story that encapsulated wild Antarctica. According to the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, Antarctica is as deso- late as no other country on our globe. In my case, Antarctica had taken me about as far away from my North Queensland, Australian home as remote- ly possible. Hot steaming rainforests had been replaced with ice palaces and blue green glaciers; kangaroos and cas-

YOLAND BOSIGER

sowaries had been substituted which had proceeded to turn me the long journey, which had taken me far Society Rolex Scholarship provides young with penguins and seals; and color of a diner plate-sized Antarctic iso- outside my comfort zone, exposed me people with the chance to explore my beloved shorts and singlet pod—not a good look, I assure you. to new places, and taught me new skills. marine fields from diving to science, had been passed up for down Antarctica was the tip of the iceberg at engineering, medicine and media—pro- jackets, heavy-duty waterproof OWUSS Rolex Scholar the end of my exciting and adventur- viding these individuals with invaluable overalls and beanie. About the Yet, despite the apparent severity of my ous year as an Our World Underwater career-deciding opportunities. With the only thing that was consistent situation, facing challenges like these was Scholarship Society Rolex Scholar. help of Expedition Leader and past British YOLAND BOSIGER was the intensity of the sun, not new. I was nearing the end of a year- The Our World Underwater Scholarship Antarctic Survey diver, Kelvin Murray, I The M/V Plancius at Hovegaard Island

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YOLAND BOSIGER

JERRY SUTTON The southernmost town in the world: Ushuaia, Argentina; Mixture of Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins at sunset (top right)

was able to experience Antarctica location, Ushuaia is of course best dry food and vegetables to entire with Oceanwide Expeditions. My known as the taking-off point for a wheels of cheese and foot-long role onboard was threefold: to large number of passenger cruise salamis. uncover the ins and outs of life ships headed for Antarctica. The We then toasted the voyage aboard an expedition vessel, take streets of this little town are chock- and got ready for what we hoped pictures for Google Ocean and a-block with warm clothing outlets would be a “Drake Lake”, rather gain polar diving skills. This was an and camera stores for those who than a “Drake Shake”. Well known opportunity like no other. might have forgotten something for delivering giant waves and pow- critical. erful winds, the Drake Passage has Departing for southern seas Departure day arrived and on occasion stymied even the most I made my journey from Australia Murray took me to see my new intrepid traveller. Luckily, we man- to Ushuaia in Argentina—a pictur- home for the next three weeks—the aged a relatively calm crossing and esque town set at the foothills of 89-meter-long, 114-passenger cruise I spent my time attending onboard the Martial Mountain Range and vessel M/V Plancius. It didn’t take lectures and learning as much as I bounded at its edge by the Beagle long to be thrown into the thick of could about Antarctica’s geology, Channel. Ushuaia and its surround- things, and if you have ever won- wildlife and history. ing wilderness are so beautiful that dered how ten days worth of food they make for an impressive tourist is transported onto a large cruise Antarctica destination in themselves. In fact, I vessel like this one, then you’re in Antarctica is the coldest, windiest had been here three years previ- for a treat. and harshest place on our planet. ously for this very reason, hiking in Boxes were winched onto the In terms of size, Antarctica is the the Terra Del Fuego National Park boat via crane and then manu- fifth largest continent (larger then and getting my fill of empanadas ally transported via a long chain both Oceana and Europe) and is (Argentinian pasties) and dolce de of crewmembers to the galley. I dominated by the Antarctic Ice leche (caramel like spread). counted over 200 bottles of juice Sheet. At its thickest point, the Yet, as a result of its southern and got to move everything from Antarctic Ice Sheet is 4.7km (2.9mi) YOLAND BOSIGER Exploring the penguin colonies at Couverville Island

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deep, averaging a whopping 2.2km (1.4mi). An causes phytoplank- incredible 90 percent of all the world’s ice and ton to bloom, which 70 percent of the entire world’s freshwater is in turn feeds small contained within this ice sheet. To put this in per- semi-transparent

spective, if the Antarctic ice sheet was to melt, crustaceans called YOLAND BOSIGER world sea levels would rise by approximately krill. These super- 60m (197ft) everywhere. abundant and unusually large phytoplankton hot chocolates and albatross photography, I Yet, Antarctica has not always been so feeders allow Antarctica to support a great seemed to be settling into my new environment heavily covered by ice. Fifty million years ago, diversity of whales, seals and birds. quite nicely. Calm weather meant that we were Antarctica had a temperate climate with The waters of the Southern Ocean are also able to make great time, and before long, we evergreen forests and many land animals. important for transporting essential nutrients all had crossed the Antarctic convergence and Nowadays, however, very little life can survive around the world. Icy cold, highly salty water were within view of our first stunning sphinx-like in the ice-covered Antarctic interior, except for known as Antarctic Bottom Water drips into icebergs. On the afternoon of our third day at algae and microbes. the ocean from the surrounding sea ice, and sea, it was time to make landing at Aitcho, a in doing so, pushes warmer water upwards. This tiny rocky island in the South Shetlands group. Antarctica underwater is so strong that it is responsible for Eager to stretch our legs, we all made our way In contrast to life on land, Antarctica’s marine driving all the oceans’ currents. out onto the gangway and stared in wonder YOLAND BOSIGER environment is undoubtedly one of the most at the pink-tinged snowy mountains and pastel Humpback whale at Hovegaard Island (above); Antarctica at sun- productive in the world’s oceans. In summer, Stepping onto dry land blue ocean. rise (top left); Gentoo penguin feeding chick, Aicho Island (top right; 24-hour sunlight combined with rich upwelling After two days of extravagant dinners, steamy Aicho Island is home to three different spe- Spotting penguins at Cuverville Island (lower right)

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YOLAND BOSIGER YOLAND BOSIGER

cies of penguin: the gentoo, Adélie and gentoo penguin feeding her chick only and videos. chinstrap. On shore, we were greeted to find that a new chick had adopted Google Ocean was inspired after Dr by a flurry of activity as both gentoo me and was sitting obediently between , legendary ocean research- and chinstrap penguins intently went my legs. er and National Geographic Explorer-in- about their business not the slightest Residence, made a ‘wish’ for influential bit disturbed by our presence. At one Google Ocean organisations and individuals to make a point, I stopped to take a picture of a Penguins have got to be some of the concerted effort to protect the planet’s most photogenic life support system—the oceans. By animals on the using Google Ocean, you can take a planet. They are also visual journey from shallow coral reefs intensely curious, so to the depths of the deep sea and can much so that they learn about important research discov- often waddle too eries. close to one’s cam- era and cause pho- Reaching the Peninsula tographs to be out Getting to our destination of Neko of focus. My purpose Harbour on the Antarctic Peninsula behind all this cam- took us first through the Gerlache Strait. era snapping was to With my camera ready, I stood upstairs help Murray collect just outside the ship’s bridge and tried and generate con- to decide on what to photograph. tent to be uploaded Everything was so immense, so raw, to the Google and yet so delicate and magical that I Ocean Layer (for decided to do the opposite—just watch which Murray is a and take it all in. JERRY SUTTON formal contributor) As we continued through the chan- Recovering dive tanks after a snowy night; in the form of photos nel, huge craggy mountains rose JERRY SUTTON Transferring into zodiacs for a land excursion (top left) Leopard seal underwater at Petermann Island; Orca hunting an Arnoux’s Beaked Whale (top right)

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JERRY SUTTON THIS PAGE: Scenes from at Neko Harbour; Anemone at Vernadsky Wall (left)

comfort of the M/V Plancius, Antarctica experience the majesty of ice underwa- seemed romantic and beautiful, but at ter as well as a great variety of benthic that moment, my mind went to those marine life, penguins, fur seals and even early explorers who—using man-hauled leopard seals. sleds, with limited food supplies and prim- Dive sites in Antarctica vary from shal- itive clothing—fought their way through low ice diving to wall diving and even this harsh and unforgiving terrain. What . Diving can be from the different opinions they must have had. beach or from the zodiac, and the maximum depth is 20m (60ft). Given the Ice diving remoteness of Antarctica (there are no Although initially thought to be the decompression chambers or hospitals) YOLAND BOSIGER exclusive dominion of documentary dive safety is of utmost concern. The diving abruptly out of the infinite abyss of blue teams and specialised technical divers, is not for beginners, and it is crucial to and green. Icebergs in the shapes of Antarctica has been made accessible be experienced with cold water diving JERRY SUTTON cathedrals and castles glistened and to by Oceanwide before embarking on a trip. mass underwater, it’s only logical that -1°C waters, I was glad my regulator was shone under the sunrays. It was like being Expeditions for the last 15 years. Provided The epitome of polar diving for many these masses of floating ice should be in my mouth for a couple of reasons. The in paradise, yet I was aware of the irony conditions are favourable, divers on the underwater enthusiasts is getting to dive explored from below. first and most obvious reason was to stop in this statement. Certainly from the M/V Plancius have the opportunity to on an iceberg. With 90 percent of their The first time I propelled myself into the myself from swallowing water. The sec-

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Pair of red starfish; Marine invertebrates just out- side Vernadsky Station; Shipwreck heavily encrusted with sponges and sea urchins; Intact wooden beams of the Gouvernøren wreck

Diving near ice was a the background of white corruga- novel concept, overloading tions and shades of turquoise. the senses with new sights, At the surface, fringes of icicles sounds and textures. Below hung off the edge of the berg water, the iceberg looks and enclosed a gallery of emerald like a colossal dimpled golf crystals. I was frozen, but delight- ball, its pattern produced ed. Antarctica had just delivered through a combination of one of the most awesome dives of melting freshwater and salt- my life. water corrosion. Swimming deeper, we began navigat- Gouvernøren wreck

YOLAND BOSIGER ing the gullies, steep col- While humans have never per- umns and sculptured pillars manently inhabited Antarctica, ond and arguably as vital purpose was from a seal’s-eye-view. We could see the they have certainly left their mark to stop myself from shouting the most faint white mist hanging next to the ice here. It’s thought that over a mil- perverse profanities I didn’t even know and could hear the corresponding fizzing lion whales were killed between JERRY SUTTON I was capable of. Thankfully the elabo- sound as trapped air bubbles escaped 1904 and 1987 to supply human- rate textures and beauty of the iceberg into the salt water. With aggressive deter- kind’s thirst for oil. Breaking the sur- in 1916. This was the first time any divers might lie ahead. provided a welcoming distraction, and mination I made my freezing fingers work face just ahead of us was the bow of on our vessel (including the ), My first view of the wreck was a gigan- as my face and lips went numb, the pain the shutter button—my own dive bubbles Gouvernøren, a Norwegian whaling had dived a wreck in Antarctica, and we tic, slightly ominous superstructure. As the eventually subsided. making for interesting subjects against transport vessel that burned and sank were super excited about what surprises gloom began to separate, the upper

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Steel barrels (left) and main deck at entrance to the forward holds (above) on Gouvernøren wreck; Antarctic limpet (top right); Entering Vernadsky Station (right)

Swimming along the submerged of which culminated ship revealed tell-tail signs of under the stern and the ship’s past life in the whal- around the rudder. It ing industry, including numerous was like diving in a room winches for hauling the whales on full of ornate cande- deck. As I adjusted my buoyancy labras except that in to avoid stirring up the sediment, place of candles were I couldn’t help wonder what life bright yellow, flinger-like must have been like for these sponges.

early whalers and how terrifying it YOLAND BOSIGER must have been to be stranded Vernadsky Station and sinking in this icy wasteland. Apart from whales, birds, seals, ritorial claims, countries ratified Vernadsky, a former British Base As we approached the stern penguins, and the occasional the Antarctic Treaty in 1961, for- that was sold to the Ukraine in of the vessel, the amount of tourist, Antarctica’s other main mally setting Antarctica aside for 1996 for the bargain price of one JERRY SUTTON marine life increased dramati- resident is the “research scientist”. peaceful, scientific purposes. pound! The scientists at Vernadsky deck became visible revealing these antique timbers, and invad- cally. Overhangs created by the As a result of the International One research outpost that we conduct many experiments, most intact wooden decking. The cold ing icebergs had kept them hull formed ideal spaces for kelp, Geophysical Year (IGY) and the were able to visit during our jour- of which relate to atmospheric Antarctic waters had preserved clean of encroaching marine life. sponges and starfish, the intensity need to defuse competing ter- ney was the Ukrainian Station of science. We also visited Wordie

55 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO View of steep mountains and glacier from the safety of the M/V Plancius; Penguin (lower left) feeding its chick feature at Aitcho Island; Leopard seal (below) Antarctica

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wall nowhere to be seen. the ecosystem, and where both preda- Eventually, the gully led to tors and prey are relatively unafraid of slightly deeper water and human beings. all of a sudden the rocks Our dive at Vernadsky was followed dropped off to an obvious by one of the highlights of our trip— wall plunging vertically to a leopard seal hunting a penguin. below 20m. Leopard seals are bold, powerful and Compared to the icy curious animals that grow to up to 3.5m. white surface, the rock When hunting penguins, leopard seals wall presented a kalei- patrol the waters near the edges of

YOLAND BOSIGER doscope of colour and the ice, almost completely submerged, animal life. Antarctic waiting for the birds to return from hunt- House, an abandoned British station isopods, colorful anemones and nudi- ing. that had everything from pans, books, branchs occupied the flat outcroppings From our zodiac, we watched the stove and typewriter still in place. and many species of urchin hid in the gentoo penguins swim obliviously Our diving challenge at Vernadsky numerous crevices. towards the leopard seal. As the seal Station was to find a particularly elusive made its surprise attack, penguin pan- wall just outside the base. Twenty min- Predator and prey demonium ensued with groups of up to utes into the dive and we were still fol- Antarctica is one of the rare places 20 flying in every direction, porpoising lowing a shallow gully over the ice—the where large predators still dominate madly to escape the seal’s deadly jaws. YOLAND BOSIGER Leopard seal hunting a penguin just outside Vernadsky Station

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YOLAND BOSIGER

Antarctica at sunrise on the M/V Plancius; Surface interval on an iceberg at Neko Harbour (right)

While I certainly wouldn’t YOLAND BOSIGER say I’m a lover of gory killing scenes, observing leopard seals, was clear. Hopefully with contin- the leopard seal was ued protection, this stunning wilderness will con- mesmerizing. tinue to be enjoyed by individuals who no longer The seal grabbed the want to conquer this frontier continent, but rath- penguin by its feet and er wish to be inspired by what it is—a truly unique shook it violently, repeat- and fragile ecosystem. ■ edly beating its body against the surface of Yoland Bosiger is a marine biologist and avid the water in an attempt diver based in North Queensland, Australia. She to kill it. At one point the was the 2012 Our World Underwater Scholarship leopard seal even threw Society Rolex Scholar. The author extends special CHRIS THRALL the penguin in the air thanks to Oceanwide Expeditions (Oceanwide- like it was playing a game of catch, triggering —many of which are found no where else on expeditions.com), Silvertip Expedition and a crescendo of squeals and camera snaps. the planet. Perhaps most importantly though, Diving Management (Silvertipworld.com) and While leopard seals can consume a number I had begun to learn firsthand, and from pas- the Our World Underwater Scholarship Society of penguins a day in the summer, this extrava- sionate and dedicated Antarctic enthusiasts, (Owuscholarship.org) for making this trip possible. ganza will not last, and many will be forced about the importance of protecting this vital back to a diet of krill during the winter. ecosystem. SOURCES: Antarctica bursts with life, and for the ANTARCTICA.AC.UK An unforgettable journey most part, this is found underwater. Diving BRITISH ANTARCTIC SURVEY My trip to Antarctica was a journey of educa- in Antarctica revealed an abundance of LONELY PLANET ANTARCTICA tion, exploration, adventure and discovery. I’d marine creatures in all shapes and sizes. NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ANTARCTICA EDUCATION.NA- experienced the challenge of diving under- Even from the comfort of the ship, the impor- TIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/EDUCATION/ENCYCLOPEDIA/ water, indulged in stunning, icy scenery and tance of the ocean for foraging seabirds and ANTARCTICA/?AR_A=1 photographed spectacular species of wildlife marine mammals, such as killer whales and YOLAND BOSIGER SCOTT POLAR RESEARCH INSTITUTE UNIV. OF CAMBRIDGE Gentoo penguin alone on the ice; Icy wilderness at sunset (top right)

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Protection The ratification of the Antarctic Treaty and subsequent Madrid Protocol were intended to fact file RIGHT: Global map provide comprehensive with location of protection of Antarctica. Antarctica Antarctica Peninsula. While they were certainly BELOW: Location of important for protect- Neko Harbour on ing Antarctica’s terres- map of Antarctica trial environment, more Peninsula BOTTOM RIGHT: progress is needed to Gentoo penguin protect the Southern SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, NATIONAL having a scratch, Ocean, which drives GEOGRAPHIC ANTARCTICA EDUCATION Aicho Island the cycle of life in the region. The Antarctic History Captain James his four comrades on the return out the year. The number increas- Southern Ocean Alliance is sup- Cook discovered Antarctica in journey. es from approximately 1,000 in South Ocean porting greater protec- 1772 when he first crossed the Whaling in the Southern Ocean winter to around 5,000 in summer. Orkney tion of Antarctic waters by Islands Antarctic convergence. Sealers was occurring as early as the proposing large scale marine were next to enter the region, 1700s, but improved technologies Geography Antarctica is protected areas—sanctuaries and during the mid 1780s the allowed the industry to flourish in located in the Earth’s southern Weddell for whales, seals, penguins and search for virgin seal grounds the 20th century. Thousands of hemisphere and is centered Sea especially fish like the Patagonian drove much of the early Antarctic whales were slaughtered annually asymmetrically around the South atmos- toothfish that continue to be hunt- exploration. The Heroic Age of eventually driving whale numbers Pole. The continent of Antarctica Graham ice phere is gradually declining. ed by commercial fishing fleets. Land shelf Exploration began in 1895 and close to extinction and making encompasses an area of over 14 is best known for the journeys of the industry nonviable. With the million squ km (5.5 million squ mi) South Climate Change How to get there Robert Scott, Roald Amundsen, signing of the Antarctic Treaty, and is surrounded by the Southern Pole Global warming is having a major In 2007-2008, approximately 58 Ernest Shackleton and Douglas Antarctica is now set aside as Ocean. If ice were removed Marie impact in Antarctica, particularly vessels (including 17 yachts) trav- Mawson. With the onset of the a place of peace and science. from Antarctica, it would reveal Byrd the Antarctic Peninsula. In the last elled to Antarctica, each cater- 20th century, the race was on There are currently 42 research a single large landmass about Amundsen Land 50 years, temperatures have risen ing to a variety of travel needs Sea ice between Amundsen and Scott to stations operated by 17 countries. the size of Australia (known as shelf by almost 3°C—as much as five and vacation expectations. secure the South Pole. The race Greater Antarctica) and an archi- times the world average. This tem- Oceanwide Expeditions is one of ended in Amundsen’s favour and Population The population of pelago of mountainous islands perature increase has correlated the few operators to offer rec- saw the tragic loss of Scott and research scientists varies through- known as lesser Antarctica. Lesser with a total loss of 25,000 squ km reational diving in the Antarctic Antarctica is a tectoni- at Vostok Station of −89.2°C. of ice shelf from the Antarctic region. cally active area with Tourists do not visit Antarctica in Peninsula. The warmer tempera- active volcanoes such winter. tures have resulted in more mois- as Mount Erebus (the ture in the atmosphere resulting southern most active Environmental Issues in more frequent and heavier volcano on earth). Scientists of the British Antarctic snowfalls. Scientists fear for the The highest mountain Survey first announced the loss Adélie penguin because it needs in Antarctica reaches of over Antarctica in 1985. land that is free of snow and ice 4,500m (14,764ft). These scientists discovered that to raise its young. compounds such as chlorofluoro- Climate During the carbons and halons take part in Fisheries summer months temper- catalytic reactions that destroy Antarctica is has long been a site atures around the coast the ozone layer. This discovery of exploitation for human profit. of Antarctica are gen- led to implementation of the While commercial whaling and erally close to freezing Montreal Protocol, which con- sealing has ceased for the most although temperatures trols the production and use of part, commercial fishing of the as high as 8°C have chlorofluorocarbons and other long-lived toothfish and all-im- been recorded. In 1983 ozone depleting chemicals. The portant krill continues in Antarctic the coldest naturally protocol is having a clear positive waters and could have devastat- occurring temperature effect, and the amount of ozone ing impacts if not controlled. ERIN MCFADDEN on earth was recorded destroying substances in the

Divers surfacing from a dive at Neko Harbour YOLAND BOSIGER 58 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO review Going ‘Recreational’ Taking the Se7en for Spin

The nascence of recreational rebreathers Text and photos by Peter Symes Looking at the unit as it was laid out felt flimsy or inaccurate; build qual- cally performed a sequence of system was just waiting to happen. Spurred on by gutted on the table, it struck me how ity seemed solid, the manufactur- checks, the progress of which could There is probably no point in denying compact everything was. The breath- ing precise, and the design came be followed on the handset. rapid advances in technical diving, new it was with no small measure of boy- ing hoses, for example, of which there across as thought through. Not that I During the sequence, there were materials and technology, coupled with ish anticipation that I showed up at are four short identical ones, are each expected otherwise, as the Se7en is a few prompts, such as to open or cost reductions, the allure of long and Poseidon’s premises on the outskirts of just about a foot long. The counter- the improved younger sibling of the close the mouthpiece, and confirma- quiet dives, with vastly improved non- Gothenburg, Sweden, to go through lungs, which detach easily for rinsing, MkVI, which already had many years tions to make, such as verifying that a a course on their Se7en closed circuit just looked liked a couple of small of development, debugging and scrubber cartridge had been inserted. deco times, had to seep from the technical rebreather, which is an upgraded and bladders, but as the manual states, refinement behind it. It showed in the In case of any issues or failed tests, communities to recreational diving, leading meaner looking version of the MkVI they are “sized to be about half the details and nice finish. an alert would be displayed on the to the design of a new generation of they fielded a few years back. volume of a full breath for an average handset along with a diagnostic code closed circuit rebreathers aimed primarily Coming up first on the agenda was individual”, and as I should learn later Boot sequence number that could be looked up in taking a closer look at the innards and taking it in the water, they had indeed Once the unit had been assembled the manual (which can be download- at recreational divers. But how far have we getting familiar with all the compo- all the volume necessary. and checked, it could be fired up. ed to a smartphone or tablet and thus come to making closed circuit rebreathers nents and how they came together. On assembling the unit, nothing During start-up, the unit automati- kept handy.) a common sight along our shorelines?

59 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Everything laid bare and ready to be review assembled

This design allows

It was all fairly straightforward. There is a sec- for a significant a sound mathemati- assembling and pre-dive test- I won’t delve too deeply into ond sensor but this level of automation cal foundation, as i.e. ing the units; the ease of use the technical specs or the phi- is used, in what Nigel Jones, principal and reduced felt losophies underlying the design Poseidon has and reduction of at RMB Consulting, both more reassuring and safer other than to point out that the dubbed “Active user task load. demonstrated at —a statement that will probably Poseidon series of rebreathers, Sensor Validation”, Rebreather Forum 3. leave me open to flak from the in constrast to most other CCR’s only to validate the first and pri- Leaving any further elaborations old-school fraction in the CCR- currently on the market, was con- mary sensor raising the alarm of this side of the matter to the community, but so be it. ceived as a clean-slate design if there is a discrepancy in the geeks, what is the significance of High levels of automation don’t, some- aimed primarily at the recre- readings between the two. all this to the user? however, imply that you are now thing ational divers from the onset as As the sensor has direct access It makes for a system that is freed up to go dive more or less as opposed to a paring down of a to both oxygen and the diluent both capable of precisely cali- mindlessly. Lessening the task and banale pre-existing technical rebreather (i.e. air)—each of which has a brating itself, using only a very stress loads primarily translates as a dis- as a number of other manufactur- known oxygen content—a burst small volume of gas, without any directly into safer diving, and it lodged ers have opted to do. of each of these pure gases will user input and able to continually also means that I can enjoy my or pinched In what has been probably the provide a set of data points that monitor sensor performance at subsurface adventures to higher o-ring may not most radical deviation from the can be used to accurately cali- depth. As such this design allows degree, focus on the experience only compro- prevailing dogma, Poseidon’s brate the primary sensor. for a significant level of automa- and possibly other tasks, such as mise your dive engineers opted to use only one As counter intuitive as it may tion and reduction of user task photography, which is my main but put your life at oxygen sensor—rather than the seem that a system using only one load. interest and primary cause for div- risk, you would want usual set of three coupled with a main sensor can be less prone to Having been originally trained ing a CCR. to go over your kit at voting logic—to monitor the gas error than a design that rests on on a technical rebreather, it even least as patiently and in the loop. three, the principle does rest on came as a relief to me. I would Training meticulously as when almost compare As with most other courses, train- you assemble that fancy to the difference ing on the Se7en takes you camera housing of yours. of driving a vehi- through the familiar sequence of Consequently, diving cle with a double theory, with an exam at the end, rebreathers is not for the clutch manual followed by practice sessions in impatient. But what is the hurry gearbox to one confined water before moving on anyway? Going methodically On a rebreather one cannot, with automatic to open water lessons. through the both when for example, use a deep breath transmission and In all , using assembling the unit and doing the to slow down a descent or use cruise control. and adhering to checklists pre-dive checks is of the essence lung volume to fine tune a hover becomes a mantra and instilling and, in fact, a mindset that all since the combined volume Mind you this mindset permeates the whole rebreather divers are required to of the breathing loop and the While rebreath- course. As tedious as it may seem, adopt. Students are repeatedly diver’s airways and lungs remains ers, also the lat- it is for good reason such lists are grilled about this aspect and the constant. Thus deep exhalations est recreational slavishly followed by pilots, highly question will pop up at the exam! or inhalations make no difference and most auto- trained and experienced as they During the in-water training, the to buoyancy, a habit which many mated models, may be. Open circuit gear can primary focus was on buoyancy open circuit divers being trained still require a more or less be donned and control, which has to be man- on closed circuit often struggle to good deal more dived after a few and simple aged somewhat differently than break. preparation and tests. on open circuit, and on bailout Other old habits that die hard diligence when Rebreathers not so. Since procedures. but must be killed off include fre-

60 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO The standard review tanks contain three liters each

Barrel rolling onto my right side, the drysuit valve on my left overarm would vent, and by rolling left, the valve on the right counter-lung would vent. Rock and roll does the trick. quent mask clearing and exhaling little exercise usually take some expression for the open circuit ing hose. The Se7en, on the other loop is closed, with breathing while breathing from this separate through the nose, both of which repetitions to get right, but just as regulator, which has been mount- hand, has this big lever on the done off the open circuit from a tank. are practices that waste gas, well, as it is part of the standard ed onto or integrated with closed mouthpiece housing. regulator exhaling bubbles into This procedure entails closing counter to the main point of using procedures when diving the unit circuit in such a manner that the Since this design enables the water. the loop, a switch to breathing off a rebreather in the first place. henceforth. diver can switch forth and back switching using only one hand During bail-out, the open sys- the bailout tank while being able In order to manage buoyancy from one circuit to the other, with- and without having to let go of tem draws from the to maintain correct buoyancy on a rebreather correctly, the When in doubt, bail out! out having to remove the mouth- i.e. a camera or a , I diluent tank via a first stage as in on the ascent. To avoid blowing diver must acquire and maintain Bailing out means going from piece. like this better. When the lever is any open circuit configuration. up and shooting to the surface what is called minimum loop vol- closed to open circuit and is On some rebreather models, in a vertical position, the closed Only snag here in this otherwise in an uncontrolled ascent—this is ume. As the attentive reader will arguably the most basic and such as AP Diving’s Inspiration loop is open (mind you, there is nice idea is that the said diluent where the minimum loop volume have guessed already, that is the elementary procedure trained on range for example, this switch is some confusing jargon to observe tank only contains a volume of procedure comes in real handy; amount of gas that just allows for both technical (type t) and rec- accomplished by twisting and there), and when it is flipped hori- two or three liters, the same as a with the overpressure valves set a full inhalation. One should feel reational (type r) rebreathers. It is turning the whole mouthpiece zontally and pointing forward and small pony-bottle. correctly on the counter-lung as just a slight tad of resistance at essential that performing this pro- 90° with respect to the breath- away from the diver, the closed So even when the tank is still well as the drysuit I had to wear, I the top of a deep inhalation. If cedure becomes second nature close to full, there is only a quite just ‘wriggled’ my way up to the there is too little gas in the loop, and routinely practiced. limited amount of gas available surface in a controlled and order- an automatic diluent valve (ADV) “When in doubt, bail out” for for a safe ascent, and if any sig- ly manner. Barrel rolling onto my should open and add some whatever reason, no questions nificant amounts of gas have right side, the drysuit valve on my more. If there is too much gas in asked. It applies not only to obvi- been lost due to sloppy tech- left overarm would vent, and by the loop from the onset—as is usu- ous cases, such as equipment nique, matters may even get out- rolling left, the valve on the right ally the case—this excess needs malfunction, but any dodgy feel- right dicey if bailout is required on counter-lung would vent. Rock to be vented. ings or nagging suspicions also a deeper dive. and roll does the trick. This is accomplished by a simple qualify. For the same reason, it is a procedure. First, the diver keeps On a rebreather, having a gas requirement that an additional The verdict partially exhaling through the to breathe is not the only con- bailout tank with a regulator must Having only gone through a nose releasing bubbles around cern. Knowing what gas you be carried for dives below 18m course with some pool-dives and the mask until this sweet spot is breathe at any given time is also (60ft) i.e. in the form of a side- a day of open water dives, this acquired. Then, the diver leans important. So if you are not sure, mounted tank clasped onto the report can only be a reflection onto the left side causing the better be safe than sorry and diver’s left side. of some first impressions and pre- overpressure relief valve on the switch to open circuit. liminary observations. So while an right counter lung to open and One of the aspects that sets Rock ‘n’ roll indepth test where we will take vent. While in this position, the recreational rebreathers apart For the Advanced the Se7en thoroughly through valve is then slowly tightened until from their technical dittos is Rebreather Diver course, its paces is in the works, what the bubble stream stops, pretty a requirement to come pre- it is therefore also a req- can we conclude on the current much as one would adjust the equipped with a Bail Out Valve uisite to practice bail- basis? shoulder valve on a drysuit. This (BOV). Basically, it is just a fancy ing out and surfacing Being trained on the Se7en was

61 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO How’s this for a training site? In early April the Swedish archipel- review ago could still be CAN’T RESIST snowbound but during our open- water training the THE CALL OF THE sun was out and the water smooth UNKNOWN? as glass. This is Gullmars fjorden at a location ...neither can we! called Skår. Photo courtesy of a novel but straightforward experi- ence and the machine was always compliant, comfortable and easy to operate in water. Its compactness and snug fit made it easy to dive, and in terms of weight, resistance through water and freedom of movement. it and operation logical and straight- of such canisters can surely be stored load along. was just as good as my regular open forward. Put technology to good use, in an attic or garage, the sticky bit In all fairness, all makes of rebreath- circuit rig. In particular, I fancied the I say, like in cars, where I don’t really comes when taking the unit on a trip ers are somewhat hampered with flat and compact assembly of the know or worry about oil temperature when each cartridge weighs 2.7kg. As such issues, but thankfully still more mouthpiece and BOV, which did not either. this equates to 16 extra kg to carry just operators are becoming rebreather- get in the way of getting my Type-r rebreathers are for six days of diving, you are either friendly and capable of servicing the eye close enough to the required to use prepack- limited to going with operators who growing community of recreational WIN A camera. aged scrubber car- stock these cartridges on location, rebreather dives so cartridges should Holding the Se7en tridges, and if there is or bite the bullet, pay the extra lug- just be yet another consumable to be to its apparent design a possible Achilles’ gage fee and haul purchased on location. XJOY 14 SCOOTER WORTH £2970 criteria, being primar- heel, this may be it. the whole Poseidon is also addressing the ily designed with rec- The rules stipulate growing issues of luggage reational rather than they only have a lifes- restrictions and fees on technical divers in pan of maximum 24 airlines in other ways; mind and to let tech- hours once the seal the company is set- nology do as much of the packaging ting up a network monitoring and control has been broken, of operators where as possible, Poseidon or maximimum divers can bring just has clearly taken huge three hours of div- their personalized “...the best dive show I have strides towards eventu- ing, whatever comes battery and can ever been to...” ally making rebreathers first. have it plugged , IANTD Founder somewhat mainstream, or While I initially had right into a rental at least not reserved to a privi- to overcome the reluc- unit on location. Whether you’re a budding technical diver, a hardcore explorer leged few. tance to discard the cartridges Meanwhile there’s or simply interested in more adventurous diving, EUROTEK is I liked its relative ease of use, which every night, even when they no such issues stand- for you! EUROTEK brings together world-class speakers, dive however, must not be confused with have only been used very little ing in the way of explorers and leading manufacturers under one roof for the simplicity, as it clearly packs a lot of and otherwise seemed good putting your kit in ultimate advanced diving conference. Can you afford to miss it? technology under the bonnet. Existing for another dive or two, I con- the trunk of your rebreather users crossing over to the ceded the expenditure was not own car and 20-21st SEPTEMBER 2014 Se7en may initially not find themselves a major issue. When bought in driving off for a immediately at ease with not having bulk, such as in 8-packs, current leisurely Sunday THE ICC, BIRMINGHAM, UK their usual sort of diagnostic informa- list prices on the web as this arti- dive, doing some tion displayed, such as having the cle goes to press are about €30 macro-photography

PO2 readings for three sensors read / $25 / £20 pr. cartridge, which is somewhere up the coast. out and just having dive information comparable to the price of air And did I mention it is not displayed along with system integrity. or nitrox fills for the same amount a bad looking piece of kit www.eurotektickets.com But all others I trust will find the display of provided dive time. While a stash either? ■

62 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO opinion

Text and photo by Simon Pridmore A few weeks ago, a dive centre chartered a boat to take five divers and two instructors out to some islands off the south coast of Bali. It was rainy season and, behind the rainclouds, there would be a full moon that night in an area where currents are notoriously strong and unpre- dictable. However, water con- ditions seemed manageable, there were other dive boats out on the water and having done one dive without encounter- ing any difficulties, the divers entered the water again for a second dive that was to be a drift dive. Scuba Confidential

After about ten minutes underwater, they found that the current was so strong that it was difficult to keep the group togeth- Don’t Let Folk Get Carried Away! er. So they ascended early to find that a storm had swept in, surface conditions were now very rough, and the rain had divers were gone. accident. Indeed, it is just the latest in Doing it properly for the dive. Before the dive he or she dis- reduced visibility to a few metres only. A little over 72 hours later, searchers a depressingly similar series of such inci- Running a safe, successful drift dive, cusses with the in-water guide what route Unaware that the divers had surfaced found four of the divers perched on rocks dents that have taken place in the same indeed any dive, comes down to prepa- they plan to take and what they will do and expecting that the dive would last some 20 kilometres away from their origi- area in recent years. Neither is Bali unu- ration and communication. in an emergency. They have considered an hour or so, the boat crew did not pull nal entry point and one of the instructors sual. Similar stories abound everywhere First, no matter if the boat belongs to all the possible things that might hap- up their anchor until about 40 minutes in the water nearby. The bodies of the people dive and there are strong cur- the dive operation, or if it is a charter pen and have a plan for each eventual- after the divers had entered the water. remaining diver and the other instruc- rents. Wherever you dive, however, this boat, an experienced and professional ity. Indeed, the dive operation they are They moved off to look for them in the tor washed up on shore in the following sort of accident is completely avoidable member of the dive centre’s staff should working for should have set procedures area they expected them to be. They days. by adopting some basic procedures and be on board the boat throughout the for all staff to follow so the dive guide did not find them. Then night fell and the This is not a bizarre one-in-a-million using some very affordable technology. dive. This person is the surface supervisor and surface supervisor need only review

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these and plan for any last minute have had safety sausages raised, pressure resistant box and called issues that might have arisen, such but for at least the first 30 minutes the boat to come and pick him as, during rainy season, the likeli- that they drifted, nobody even up — no drama! hood of a sudden rainstorm. knew that they had surfaced. The cost of a radio like this is The sole function of surface Then when the boat did start look- under US$300. So a US$600 invest- supervisors is to monitor the dive. ing, it is likely that the surface con- ment pays for a unit for a dive Their role is as cru- ditions had swept guide and another for the sur- cial as that of the Dive operators must look the divers away, face supervisor. As long as the INTRODUCING guide. They watch at the way they handle and the boat was guide maintains contact with the bubbles ini- searching in the his team and the radios are well POSEIDON tially to see if the dives, especially in loca- wrong place. Then maintained, the risk of loss at sea guide is follow- it got dark and the becomes tiny. SE7EN ing the plan, and tions that are known divers were gone. once the divers diving black spots. In remote back- Improving standards are en route, they Divers can play a role in country skiing, With a little forethought regarding instruct the boat where avalanches procedures, better staff assign- crew to move and improving standards too are a risk, every- ment and a little cheap technol- accompany the by asking the right ques- one is equipped ogy, the seven divers would not divers from a dis- with an avalanche have been lost that day. It would tance. tions and making sure beacon, a device not have taken three days to find If difficult water that they dive with oper- that constantly them. They would not have need- or weather condi- emits a signal. In ed the miracle chance that the tions arise, they ators that are properly the event the skier sea carried them towards some ask the captain prepared and equipped. is buried, the sig- rocks to survive and two would to bring the boat nal helps a rescue not have lost their lives. closer. They remain alert and team find them. Now, wonderful Dive operators must look at the ready to assist if there is a prob- as it may be to imagine a world way they handle dives, especially lem, for example if anyone makes in which every diver is required in locations that are known div- an early ascent, and stay on to carry an emergency signalling ing black spots. Divers can play a watch until the whole dive team is beacon in the event that they role in improving standards, too, safely back in the boat. become lost at sea, this is unlikely by asking the right questions and to happen any time soon. making sure that they dive with A little bit of kit However, there are simpler operators that are properly pre- In scuba diving, we carry safety and more practical alternatives pared and equipped. ■ sausages and noisemakers to help available right now. Last year, a a dive boat find us if we are lost Singapore technical diving instruc- Simon Pridmore has been around at sea. These are essential pieces tor found himself drifting alone in the scuba diving industry in of equipment and everyone the South China Sea after a series Asia, Europe and the USA (well, should have them on every dive. of unusual events. He looked Guam) for the past 20 years. His However, it is sadly futile to deploy around, saw where he was in latest book, also called Scuba a safety sausage or blow a whistle relation to the land, pulled out his Confidential, was published in if nobody is there. In the incident hand-held GPS radio that he car- September and is available on www.poseidon.com described above, the divers might ries on every dive in a dedicated Amazon.

64 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO media Guide to Diving The Complete Diver: The History, Science and Practice of Scuba Diving, by Alex Bryske. The author, 20-year senior editor for Dive Training magazine, Alex Bryske brings Underwater Museum his formidable expertise and experience in teaching diving and develping many of In his new book, The Underwater Museum: today’s most popular dive training programs The Submerged Sculptures of Jason deCaires to this comprehensive book on recreational Taylor, the U.K. artist and sculptor, with con- diving. In the book’s 42 chapters, he covers tributors Carlo McCormick and Helen Scales, the most important and most common topics takes us on a dive to visit the underwater and aspects of diving, as well as less com- sculpture parks where marine life grows over mon topics such as undersea exploration and time on the unique and compelling life-size innovation. In the content and approach of statues he has created, installations of spe- the book, the author has found a balance cial cement anchored on the sea floor to between the overly dumbed-down tone of become living reefs. The science behind the many diving textbooks and the overly chal- art is explained, as coral, fish and algae are lenging content of highly technical sources, attracted to these statues transforming the presenting a knowledge base every serious installations, as well as the efforts these un- diver will want to acquire. derwater sculpture parks aim to facilitate.

Paperback: 346 pages Hardcover: 128 pages Publisher: Dive Training LLC Publisher: Chronicle Books Date: 29 October 2012 Date: 11 March 2014 The clearest Divemaster game ISBN-10: 0615721338 ISBN-10: 1452118876 and most ISBN-13: 978-0615721330 ISBN-13: 978-1452118871 strain free This fun game from independent de- pair of veloper, Gyula Somogyi, has both iOS sunglasses you and Android versions for the iPad found will ever own or on iTunes and Amazon. Divemaster is a your money back casual simulator game of real diving from a divemaster’s point of view. An avid un- Visible from space, the Great Barrier Reef stretches ● Blocks 100% of UVA/B derwater filmmaker himself, Somogyi saw for 1,400 miles along the coast of Australia and and UVC as well as all there was a lack of realistic diving games is home to thousands of marine species on 3,000 annoying blue-light for mobile devices, so he created a diver- individual reefs and over 900 islands. Explorer and friendly game with simple game me- historian, Iain McCalman reveals in his new book, ● Fully polarized for ultra chanics coupled with real diving physics. The Reef: A Passionate History: The Great Barrier crisp visuals on the water Players are in control of an 8-person dive Reef from Captain Cook to Climate Change, how group and work the simulated job of a human impact over two centuries has affected this ● Feather-weight frames divemaster on a dive boat visiting tropical extraordinary ocean ecosystem. The book discusses made of ultra durable underwater reefs. Players can live out their the relationship that people have had with the reef Grilamid memory plastic dream job in this simulation in which they as well as the changing perceptions of the reef as a guide divers underwater to show them dangerous maze to a resource of economic gain to ● Lifetime replacement coral reefs and creatures and connect di- a frontier for scientific discovery, ultimately to raise program covers you against vers to animals they want to photograph. awareness of this fragile World Heritage site and hu- any self inflicted damage of The more photos taken, the greater the manity’s desire to save it for future generations. any kind rewards and tips to the player. There’s no violence in the game, no animals are shot, Hardcover: 352 pages 5% of all sales goes and responsible behavior of divers is pro- Publisher: Scientific American to Diveheart moted. But beware: You must Date: 20 May 2014 take care of your divers. If the divers run ISBN-10: 0374248192 www.bendettioptics.com out of air, they perish and it’s gameover. ISBN-13: 978-0374248192

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Text and photos by Steve Lewis Being swept along on this tech- nical diving thing, has been a long, somewhat twisted, but definitely entertaining journey. If you and I had met when the whole affair started, we could not possibly have envisioned how directly and pervasively, what were then radical activities, like , trimix diving and rebreather diving, would influ- ence the mainstream dive com- munity. Watching the evolution of technical diving, and being able to observe the changes it’s wrought on all aspects of rec- reational scuba, has been a true privilege—and great fun. Why you should never go diving with an idiot But perhaps, evolution is too soft a word —and how to avoid that happening to you to describe what’s happened. So many things have changed. Gear, training, the places we visit to dive, how we have more than the proverbial “1000 He told anyone who would listen, not to training to be mindful when diving with where strokery began and ended varied exchange information, even what form songs in my pocket”. And I am typical dive with “strokes.” The shortest possible an “insta-buddy”. depending on who was supplying the dive magazines and textbooks take: rather than an exception. explanation or definition of Stoke is some- Personally, I opt for the middle ground: definition—the most radical being a form case in point with X-RAY MAG for exam- However, some things have not one who is unsafe and unaware. “Don’t You should never go diving with an idiot. of tribalism that I found reminiscent of the ple. I’m not particularly nerdy or wired changed. Especially good advice. dive with strokes” was Irvine’s corruption Let’s explore that statement. gang mentality I saw as a kid on the ter- but “traditionally printed” magazines and A while back when the tech diving of much earlier advice from cave dive races of football grounds in London’s East books no longer figure very prominently revolution was first building up a head training manuals to not dive with folks What is a stoke? End—a sort of modified, “We’re Millwall. in my professional or personal life. I still do of steam, one piece of advice that cre- whose skills and mindset were unknown. One of the most controversial things Nobody Likes Us and We Don’t Care!” carry a notebook and pen in my back- ated some controversy came from the And that little gem—as light its impact about Irvine’s don’t dive with strokes My definition of the sort of idiot who pack, but there’s an iPad, iPad mini, and politically incorrect keyboard and mouth was compared to Irvine’s version—had its advice, was the definition of a stroke should be avoided when diving is easier two smart phones in there, too. I really of a character called George Irvine III. Genesis in the caution from open-water itself. The actual guidelines describing to draw a box around… and I believe

66 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Where modern technology enhances old fashion diving

W4 5mm tech talk Self-assessment [can] help an expe- rienced diver avoid the Siren-call of complacency STYLISH SILVER DESIGN LOADED WITH FEATURES.

W4 is the latest back-zip from Waterproof. less tribal… but perhaps no easier for insisted, self-assessment that could and our assets? After nearly 30 years of experience of making some of us to accept. help an experienced diver avoid the ● Are the environmental conditions we have put all our knowledge into this Complacency, for me at least and Siren-call of complacency. Therefore, here at the dive site less challenging, high-quality suit with an eye-catching retro-futuristic in the context of defining a diving self-assessment was held up as a as challenging or more challenging design. idiot, is a solid starting point. If I want- good habit to cultivate, and not a than we planned for and how does The 3D anatomical design, with pre-bent arms ed to build a monument to diving bad barrier to raise between you and that affect the answer to the next and legs with stretch panels and gender specific construction ensures a comfortable idiocy, complacency would be my a huge mistake. question? fit and a relaxing body position in the water. cornerstone. ● Is there is ANYTHING at all about the 3D-moulded real rubber kneepads are Complacency is sneaky, and the The self-assessment process plan and intended execution of this perfect for the who spends a lot of time on his/her knees more skilled we become, the sneakier Self-assessment begins with the quiet dive that is outside the security of best in the water while teaching. it gets. Regardless of how detailed and reflexive process of providing practice? If so, has every one of us and comprehensive our dive plan, it oneself with honest answers to a series and our loved ones signed on it? Double smooth-skin seals at arms and legs, adjustable neck and a will be completely negated by com- of simple questions. 10mm spinepad, with an extra seal at placency. Moreover, rather like a ● Does my training and experience A lot has been said and written about the backzipper work together to keep virus, once complacency gets a foot- match the needs of the team on this the promotion and use of checklists the cold water out. Seals are designed to fit WP boots and gloves. hold in one’s pre-dive process, it can dive? in diving—especially rebreather div- All zippers in top class Vislon from YKK. The spread and infect others. I believe it is ● Do I understand what’s meant by ing—of late, but I believe that the Bronze slider in the back zipper ensures trouble- a strong contender for top-spot in the the phrase “most skills are perishable” self-assessment needs to be free function for many years. ToughTex panels at elbows and knees, Bonded HiQ list of things to avoid if we and have I recently practiced adopted as part of the pre-dive pro- Nylon Thread and 100% CR Neoprene in all don’t want to dive with an Complacency the skills needed to perform tocols for ALL divers. panels - quality in every detail. idiot. this dive? Actually, I feel strongly enough kills experi- The W4 also features double computer strap So, a simple technique ● Do I have fluency in the dis- about the point to tell you that if you anchors with anti slip, comfort front neck zipper, that can help us side-step enced divers. tinct and particular skills need- and your buddy do not engage in inner plush lining, seat and shoulder antislip complacency is what I’d like ed to get me and my mates any form of structured self-assessment reinforcement. to make a case for. back to the surface in one piece as part of your pre-dive routine, you Again, back when the tech diving should the crap hit the fan during this are diving with not one, but two idi- revolution was tearing down limits dive? ots… and so is your buddy. imposed by the PADIs and NAUIs of ● Are the other team members ready And just to be clear, diving with an the dive industry, a pretty smart guy for this dive, and in the event of a idiot can get you killed. ■ with more than a few dives in his log- catastrophe, can they save them- book and a political incorrectness all selves and me without submitted Steve Lewis is a diver, instructor, dive- his own, told me that complacency themselves to an unacceptable risk of industry consultant and author. He kills experienced divers. injury or death? teaches and lectures at home and His was not a quick and cursory ● Is the gear my team and I are using abroad. His main focus is to increase The WPAD™, or the Waterproof Personal Accessory Dock, is a sidebar conversation, but a week- appropriate and does it meet or safety and point out ways to make soft artfully constructed docking long rationalisation that was part exceed the requirements of this dive, us all better divers than we are station located on the right thigh used for attaching our expandable my first technical instructor program. and is it fit for purpose? now. His latest book, Staying Alive: pocket. It was , founder of TDI ● Is there more than enough gas for Techniques for (Technical Diving International) who everyone, and is it the right flavour or Advanced Scuba Diving, is a best- formalised for me the essential pro- flavours? seller, available at Amazon. For more cess of self-assessment, and rein- ● Do I feel confident, comfortable information visit: Techdivertraining.org. forced for me the value of self-assess- and capable to complete this dive This article is based on a presentation ment as part of the prelim for each safely, today? first made by Lewis at Beneath the Sea and every technical dive. It was, he ● Does our dive plan cover our arses in 2013 and 2014. www.waterproof.eu

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Edited by Ila France Porcher

Text by Ila France Porcher. Images by Ila France Porcher, Wolfgang Leander A difficulty in obtaining informa- tion about wild animal behav- iour is that detailed observa- tions of different individuals is necessary over long periods of time, and this is especially hard to achieve with sharks. But in the shallow lagoons of French Polynesia, such observation was possible without the encum- brance of scuba gear, and with- out the problem of the shark dis- appearing into the depths. Over a period of 15 years, I searched out and observed reef sharks in the different locations where I lived there, and for seven years, studied them intensively.

As I learned where and how to look for the local sharks, I focused on blackfin reef sharks (Carcharhinus melanopter- us), because they were so easy to find patrolling the shores. But other species, Cognition in Sharks including whitetip reef sharks (Triaenodon ILA FRANCE PORCHER obesus), grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos), sharptooth lemon sharks tomed to my presence, and accepted Individual differences while others travelled for months at a In time I concluded that they were (Negaprion acutidens) and nurse sharks me into their community. By recording Individual differences marked each time. Individual sharks demonstrated dif- using cognition rather than reacting (Ginglymostoma cirratum) were present the actions of the various individuals, I shark’s behaviour. Each one had a ferent rates of learning, and they varied automatically to stimuli. This was the rea- and often observable for long periods, was able to access a dimension of their unique pattern of roaming, under the greatly in their responses to different situ- son that I spent so much time observing too. lives that had not previously been docu- dual influences of the lunar phase and ations. They had complex social lives, them, and following the precepts of cog- As time passed, I learned to put them mented. the reproductive cycle. Some were near- and their behaviour showed a flexible nitive ethology, tried to learn what they at ease with me, they became accus- ly always present in their home ranges, intelligence. were like as animals and individuals.

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Cognition is the term used for in which cognition is most evident. travellers were temporarily joined thinking in non-human animals— They tended to travel with pre- by sharks residing in the regions the process of knowing through ferred companions, and these through which they moved. There thinking. An animal shows that sets of friends joined with wider was always excitement when it is using cognition, rather than groups of sharks at times. Due to travellers and residents met. They trial and error, when it must have the circular paths in which they would follow each other around referred to a mental representa- move, they repeatedly crossed and swim side by side for long tion in order to act as it did. Many each others’ scent trails, and thus periods, before the companions life forms, including invertebrates, remained in loose contact as they moved on together. accompanied me most often, point—sharks easily discern the Once out of sight, they often are increasingly found to be using roamed, together, yet not usually As far as I was able to deter- one of them never learned to difference between a shark feed- continued to pay attention to cognition in their daily lives, and within visual range. mine, such friends came from take a treat I threw for her, while ing event and a spear fisherman. events from beyond visual range, cognition in fish has been well Companions were individuals of the same region. The reef sharks only a few caught on immediate- It is the fishermen themselves who by listening and through their lat- studied. the same gender, and usually the were acquainted with the other ly without practice. attract sharks, by holding dying eral line sense. Sometimes they individuals whose home ranges fish underwater and trailing scent. passed into view for a brief look overlapped theirs; travelling com- Vigilance just at the visual limit, then van- panions were usually neighbours Wild animals are always vigilant, Approaches ished again beyond their curtain at home. always on the look-out for dan- All of the species of reef sharks I of blue. Bonnethead sharks, too, have ger, and sharks are no different. observed habitually used the veil- The diagram (above) shows the been shown to recognize each Whenever anything was different ing light to conceal themselves. general pattern of approach of a other as individuals, and it has about my visit, whether it was in been documented that at least a different place or at a differ- some species of sharks and rays ent time, the sharks’ behaviour choose their mates, providing became more cautious. further evidence that individuals When I brought a second per- know each other. son with me, which happened very rarely, they initially vanished Memory and learning beyond visual range after a swift Learning plays an important role approach when I first appeared in the lives of sharks, as has been underwater. Many minutes well documented. Learning is passed before they reappeared, closely involved with memory, usually approaching the stranger and the sharks I had under first, in long lines led by the bold- observation frequently showed est among them. This initial disap- their ability to remember events pearance never happened when far back in time. Familiar sharks I was alone, and demonstrated recognized me in the lagoon their alertness to changes, and as much as two years after their their ability to make quick deci- ILA FRANCE PORCHER last meeting with me, and their sions based on unexpected find- Knowing others same age as well. Some sharks behaviour, of greeting and swim- ings. as individuals usually travelled alone, some ming with me, was unchanged. Those who complain that shark The sharks recognized each other always with the same companion, Like people, different sharks feeding dives cause sharks to as individuals, which is the prereq- and others changed compan- had different rates of learning. harass spear fishermen, have uisite for the complex social lives ions relatively frequently. Often, For example, among those who failed to understand this crucial ILA FRANCE PORCHER THIS PAGE: Blacktip reef sharks

69 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Medication of shark shark tales Sharks

blackfin reef shark. zoomed straight up Diagram of Shark Initially, the shark curves briefly to me. Approaches into visual range, then out. A few Other species minutes later, it appears again showed a similar for a closer look. With each rep- general pattern etition, the arc becomes more of approaching, acute until, if the shark is very but their closest interested, it approaches nearly approach came head on. more from the side than head-on. views, and they understood the is not surprising Any variation on this pattern direction in which a person was that it is said could occur. Shy older females Hiding looking. In other ways, too, they that you never often lingered out of visual range Often a shy shark who appeared showed that they were aware see the shark before making one or two passes briefly in visual range would sud- of whether or not they could be who bites you. into view, but never came close, denly pass close behind me, seen. When I was with another As with other ILA FRANCE PORCHER while males coming into the but dart away if I turned and person, for example, they always predators, it lagoon in exited bands to mate saw her—she had come to look swiftly approached if we raised is best to face them, and pay remain concentrated on one sounds of me getting the treat after sunset, often omitted the without being seen. Sharks had our heads above the surface to attention to them when you are thing for so long. and throwing it, and their actions ‘cautious passes’ phase, and no trouble recognizing frontal talk. with them. But, that said, shark Sometimes unexpected events were effective, because one of Once I was swimming with my bites are very rare, and sharks revealed patterns I might not oth- them did get the food! This exam- step-son, and he climbed on were the only wild animal with erwise have seen. When one of ple shows their ability to predict a dead coral structure to look which I was in intimate contact the sharks became ill, each even- something that might occur in the around above the surface. The for many years—which never did ing I tried a different tactic to give future, and to concentrate on it. shark who was accompanying us bite me, either through accident him a piece of food in which I Cognition is indicated because swam over to sniff his legs, and or irritation. My conclusion in the had inserted antibiotics. The other they must have held a mental with his head above the surface, end was that an inhibition against sharks seemed to anticipate each representation of food com- the boy never saw her. Sharks biting companions was at play. of my attempts, and their actions ing under such circumstances, even surprised me by swimming made it very difficult for me to the signal that would trigger its between my face and hands Attention, curiosity medicate him. imminent arrival, and what they when I was drawing, which never and observation One of the tactics they used planned to do when it came. happened when I was paying The sharks were very curious, after several nights of missing It often seemed that the sharks attention to them. One unusual and investigated anything new. out on the food, was to wait tried to be one step ahead of shark passed me nearly every If a coconut floated across the beyond visual range. When the me. In long-evolved predators time I went to the lagoon, drifting surface, one would notice and time came, and I went to the who catch swift and evasive fish by from left to right, always and rise to sniff it, followed by the oth- kayak and threw the food into for a living, the strategy of watch- only when I was looking the other ers. They would often follow me the water, seven sharks whom I ing and waiting, and trying to pre- way. She did this for eight months for long distances, sometimes for thought had left an hour earlier, dict from past experience what before relaxing her vigilance and hours, while remaining hidden soared in, and the fastest one the prey would do next, could moving around me more freely. beyond visual range. From time to snatched the treat in mid-water. well have been selected for. Always on the alert, the sharks time, I checked to see who was Since they had been out of used their awareness of whether with me by suddenly stopping, sight, they had based their deci- Self-awareness or not a person could see them whereon they came into view. sion to act on a signal they had Cognitive ethologist Donald R. to their advantage. Therefore, it It was surprising that they would heard. They had understood the Griffin pointed out that when ILA FRANCE PORCHER Close approach by a shark

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ILA FRANCE PORCHER Sharks passing into view

an animal hid itself from view, it was on the reef. image in mind of what he wanted, The Australasia-wide demonstrating self-awareness. He Where sharks are habituated to and referred to it while looking for a described how Lance A. Olsen had divers and come to see them, such formation of the right shape. perpetual photo and reported that grizzly bears sought counts may give the impression that Though this may not seem to be places from which they could watch there are many sharks, when actually, very impressive in terms of thinking in video shootout with close to hunters while remaining hidden. Other their numbers are few. Shark finners are sharks, the availability of surfaces to observers had reported too, that attracted when the information is pub- use in this way doesn’t mean that the US$100,000 in prizes! bears tried to avoid leaving tracks. licized, and the dive site is fished out. animal will realize how they can be of The researchers concluded that these benefit. bears were aware of being present Decision making For example, mynah birds and observable, as well as creating Occasionally, reef sharks would flip (Acridotheres tristis), and junglefowl effects―their tracks―through their on their backs to wriggle in the sand, (Gallus gallus), the wild ancestor movements, which could be seen by presumably to scratch or to free of domestic chickens, both spend others. themselves of parasites. On other much of their time foraging for insects The sharks’ habitual way of remain- occasions, a shark would turn to whip on the ground, and both have strong ing concealed behind the veiling the side of its body against a sand feet for walking. However, mynah light until an opportunistic moment, bank. The floor of the lagoon was birds haven’t discovered that they or approaching from behind to avoid made up of sand interspersed with can use their feet to help them JOIN THE UNDERWATER SNAPSHOT OF AUSTRALASIA being seen, is in the same category reef flats and coral, and the sharks uncover these insects, while jungle- of behaviour, and indicates that invariably chose only sandy places for fowl do so instinctively. they are aware of being present and such manoeuvres. I was lucky to witness a clear deci- underwaterproject.org observable. This is the reason why Sometimes a shark carefully posi- sion made by two sharks, between the so called ‘shark counts’ divers are tioned himself to use a smooth, flat two possible choices. One day near asked to participate in, have no sci- surface of dead coral on which my study area, the fins of several entific validity. Since sharks are either to rub himself. Apparently, he had blackfins were slicing through the attracted to divers, or avoid them, the intentionally surveyed the environ- surface, and underwater, fish were numbers of sharks seen by divers are ment and chosen a suitable structure spawning, and sharks were gliding not representative of the true numbers to use. He must have held a mental among them, occasionally snapping

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one up. a stimulating way, and I had not arises deep within us without any meters to the Two came over when they saw fed them in that location before. interference from the frontal lobes right, between me, and returned from time to Such memories of events that of the mammalian brain! ten and 15 time to circle me over a 15-min- can be called upon for decision- Occasionally, companions minutes after ute period. When I left and trav- making, are called declara- acted in concert, leaving the sunset each elled another half a kilometre into tive memories. It is now thought other sharks, and swimming in for- night for several the lagoon, these two sharks fol- that they cannot be used in the mation to perform a specific act weeks. Each lowed from the spawning site. absence of consciousness. together. How they communicat- time, he saw me They decided to follow me ed the decision to do this was not and came for even though they had not seen Communication clear, but likely body language a closer look, me for several months, and they I could not see evidence of played a role. then turned made the choice that was based communication between sharks In his book, The Secret Life of and went on his on a mental reference, a thought except through body language. Sharks, Professor Peter Klimley way. Another or memory, that sometimes I If you have ever met an aggres- described how great white sharks rare visitor’s brought food. Yet, they were in a sive shark, you will know how well ritualize their conflict when a seal, first four visits, situation in which they could see, body language communicates which one of them has killed, though months ILA FRANCE PORCHER hear and smell food, moving in at a physical level. The response comes under dispute. Each slaps apart, occurred the water at an precisely at the not become dependant on my sharks found that the food could angle with its tail, moment that the sun touched the weekly feeding sessions, though be accessed by leaping from the and the shark who horizon, four days before the dark she had known about them since water and leaning towards the raises the most water of the moon. she had been a juvenile. boat, while snapping at whatever and blasts it farthest Intrigued, when one of the The sharks seemed to have no they could locate. The sound of wins the prey. For this residents who had habitually met trouble catching a fish when they their jaws snapping shut made ritual to be effec- me on my arrival in the lagoon, wished to, and often came to the loud clapping sounds, and some tive, each shark must began coming instead at the end feeding sessions only to socialize. of the kayak’s straps were cut, view its opponent’s of the feeding session, and miss- Resident sharks routinely left for punctured and sliced by their gesture as a com- ing out on the food, I kept careful months at a time, and visitors did sharp little teeth. munication, and track of the time of her return. For not remain in the area because This behaviour pattern, which understand it, since reasons known only to her, she of the food. Though many came was a new foraging technique, the winner gets the had suddenly begun to spend her to my feeding site at the proper was initiated by one or two sharks seal without a fight, days in the ocean. Over a period time, their long-term schedules and instantaneously copied by which could badly of many months, she returned were unaffected by the few the others present. Later it was hurt both sharks. about ten minutes before sunset, scraps I provided weekly to facili- repeated by the sharks in that night after night. Sometimes, she tate my observations. group. This discovery occurred Scheduling still met me when I arrived, yet twice, in different locations, under Sharks often passed other times, I saw her return from Social learning different circumstances, with dif- the same place at the sea when it was nearly dark, The resident sharks learned, in ferent groups of sharks, and is an the same time on passing in the distance, and not time, that the fish-scraps I brought example of social learning, which consecutive occa- coming to the feeding session. to the feeding sessions were in is basic to the development of sions. One young Besides illustrating a remarkable the back of my kayak. Though culture. visiting male passed ability to follow a daily schedule, this species has not been docu- Under normal circumstances, by my observa- and yet be flexible about it, her mented breaching the surface the space above the surface is tion post about five actions indicated that she had to eat or to look around, these not something that these sharks

ILA FRANCE PORCHER 72 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Lemon shark shark tales

would have reason to consider. I came and went. me there in the mysterious volume But they were presented with A question in cognition is above the surface—great white an artificial situation in which I whether an animal knows that sharks are known to deliberately came from above the surface something continues to exist look around above the surface. and returned there, and so did when he or she can no longer see The electro-sense works at close the food in which they were inter- it. An object apparently ceases to range, and possibly continued ested. exist for dogs, for example, when to inform them that my living They would doubtless have it goes out of sight. So few people body was just beyond the plas- stored memories about the sur- would agree that sharks could tic hull when I vanished. Further, face from the occasions, par- understand that I was in the boat, they could hear the sounds of ticularly when they were small, even when I had just left their my movements in the hollow when they swam through it or company and climbed into it. Yet craft with their lateral line sense up against it while chasing a fish, they were aware. and sense of hearing, a way of though it is unlikely they could Could they see me through the perceiving the environment that have formed more than a vague surface? It often appeared that appears to be dominant in sharks. impression that there was a space they could, and when they raised If the sight of me underwater above, from such brief events. their heads from the water, they was replaced by the sound of my Yet, their behaviour suggested raised them straight towards my movements in the hollow plastic WOLFGANG LEANDER that they were aware of a vol- face as if they could see it from kayak as I got in, these percep- ume above the surface in which beneath. Once their faces were tions could well continue to inform continues to exist, in spite of being including bull sharks and tiger Though fish may seem primitive things could exist, and from which in the air, they could certainly see them that I was still present, even out of sight. sharks, for shorter periods, and when looking down on them from though their view of Sharks have exquisitely coordi- found that their behaviour was the altitude of Homo sapiens, in me was blocked, just nated senses, and their behav- remarkably similar to the behav- fact they are highly complex and as it was blocked iour indicated that they used iour of the requiem sharks, far evolved life forms. And no brain whenever they lis- this sensory input alertly to make off, but not too distantly related, is simple, as anyone who has tened to me under- moment-to-moment decisions, whom I had known in Polynesia. observed the activities of a spider water, from beyond and respond flexibly and appro- This is to be expected since sharks will appreciate. ■ visual range. priately to changing circumstanc- have been evolving for approxi- Indeed, the many es. They remembered the events mately 420 million years, and Ila France Porcher, author of My ways that sharks in their lives, and referred to these many species travel widely and Sunset Rendezvous: Crisis in Tahiti, took advantage memories to make decisions. are found around the globe. is an ethologist who focused of the opportunity They were curious, but cautious, The essential qualities that on the study of reef sharks after to hide behind the and learned quickly. Their versa- sharks evolved to be so successful she moved to Tahiti in 1995. Her veiling light, and tile behaviour, individual differ- would already have developed observations, which are the first of to approach when ences, and different ways of han- in the ancestral forms, before their kind, have yielded valuable they were not vis- dling various circumstances, were they evolved into modern species details about their lives, including ible, such as when not indicative of a set of stimulus occupying the ecological niches their reproductive cycle, social a person’s face was or response reactions. Yet, dis- we know today. There is no rea- biology, population structure, above the surface, tanced so far from us in evolution- son to assume that the Polynesian daily behaviour patterns, roam- strongly suggests ary time, the motives and true sharks were different. It is more ing tendencies, and cognitive that they are quite states of subjectivity experienced probable that they were ordinary abilities. Her next book, On the comfortable with the by sharks must remain mysterious. sharks, quite representative of Ethology of Reef Sharks, will soon idea that something I have observed other species, their kind. be released.

WOLFGANG LEANDER Lemon and tiger sharks 73 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO tech talk

Bail out with Edited by Inspiration Michael Menduno rebreather, Tahiti

Text by Pascal Bernabe Photos by François Brun Rebreather diving is current- ly one of the fastest growing activities in the diving universe. Divers’ motivations for getting a rebreather vary. Some derive enjoyment from “piloting” a sophisticated machine like a cosmonaut journeying through (inner) space. Others find plea- sure in possessing a powerful tool for exploring caves, wrecks, canyons and reef walls, and being able to silently approach and photograph marine life without any bubbles.

However, despite their increased capa- bilities, rebreathers can be subject to serious failures. Accordingly, one of the primary objectives of good rebreather The Art of Bailing Out training is to learn how to react correctly and quickly to a problem and perform the appropriate as switching to “bailout”—in other words, ● A completely flooded loop that has an electric value that injects oxygen into effort for example swimming against a to the situation or the failure. an alternate gas source appropriate for become un-breathable, for example, the breathing loop in order to maintain a strong current, or the failure of the

There are a number of rebreather fail- the dive in the event of problems with due to a rupture in the breathing hose or constant oxygen , usually CO2 scrubber system to remove carbon ure modes that require the diver to get the rebreather. The general rule taught in counterlung. between 0.7 and 1.3 bar.) dioxide from the breathing loop. This can off the breathing loop immediately and rebreather classes is, “If you are in doubt, ● An excessively high partial pressure of ● A low PO2 below 0.16 bar in the occur if the diver exceeds the scrubber switch to a reliable back-up system, typi- switch to bailout.” oxygen (PO2) in the breathing loop creat- breathing loop, resulting in the immedi- duration, there’s an error in assembling cally open circuit scuba, which is current- There are a number of situations that ing an immediate risk of partic- ate risk of . the unit, particularly the absorbent can- ly the most reliable and inexpensive form would prompt a diver to bailout. These ularly at deep depths and where the PO2 ● Shortness of breath and/or a carbon ister, or there’s a failure in the mushroom of back-up. Rebreather divers refer to this include: exceeds 1.6 bar. (Note: the solenoid is dioxide (CO2) hit caused by strenuous valve.

74 X-RAY MAG : 56 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Bail out and BOV Bail out with with Inspiration rebreather, tech talk rebreather Tunesia Bailing Out

● A complete failure of rig or not. A BOV A SHORT GLOSSARY FOR

the electronics (PO2 dis- is a regulator REBREATHER NOVICES play and heads up display) integrated into making it impossible for the the rebreather’s PO2: Oxygen partial pres-

diver to know the PO2 in the mouthpiece that sure, which should ideally loop. allows the diver lie between 0.7 and 1.3 bar ● Running out of onboard to immediately according to the dive phase: oxygen and/or diluent. switch from the 0.7 during the descent and at ● The failure of two or closed circuit to shallow depths and 1.2-1.3 bar more oxygen sensors. In the open circuit at the bottom. PO2s are some- this case, the diver can no by moving or times boosted to 1.4 during longer be sure of his or her turning (depend- decompression.

PO2 (when three cell voting ing on the logic is used). design) a special Diluent: An air, nitrox, or trimix/ lever. , which is contained in The general rule for bail- Ideally the BOV the left tank of the rebreather out is that there should be should be con- and is blended with oxygen to enough of the appropri- nected via a quick-release provide means of recon- give the diver the best mix for a ate gas to ascend to the and waterproof Swage necting it to other tanks given depth. surface while allowing Lock type fitting to a tank according to the depth for a safety margin. For with gas breathable at the during the ascent, for Solenoid: An electric valve that example, the rule used in maximum dive depth, and example, to manage the adds oxygen at the right time cave rebreather diving, to maintain a constant PO2. that is also applicable for decompression diving, is to Onboard Gas: Gas inside the calculate one’s consump- rebreather system. tion rate based on 30 l/ minute (1.1 ft3/min) mul- Off Board Gas: A gas source tiplied by 1.5 for a safety outside the rebreather system margin or 45 l/min. (1.6 ft3/ (stage/bailout tanks). min. Experience shows that in the case of getting short HUD: A heads-up display that

of breath or CO2 intoxica- shows the PO2 and is posi- tion, the gas consumption tioned on the loop next to the may rise to as much as 70 l/ mouthpiece and is very easy to min (2.5 ft3/min) during the see. first minute and to lower to some 25 l/min (0.9 ft3/min.) mCCR: A closed-circuit during the following min- rebreather with manual con- utes. trols (if the diver needs more oxygen he or she injects oxy- Bailout options gen, if the diver wants to lower and configurations oxygen he or she adds diluent, simple, no electronics). A. Open circuit bailout (tanks) eCCR: closed-circuit rebreath- The first question divers er with electronic controls. have to ask is whether to Constant PO2 is maintained have an integrated bail- with the help of solenoid. out valve (BOV) on their Bail out and BOV with Inspiration rebreather, Tahiti

75 X-RAY MAG : 56 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Bail out Bail out with two with lateral tech talk rebreathers rebreather (below) Bailing Out

the arms with the help ent pressure to the same tank as of a to the BOV, wings, dry suit, and or get them close to the hose for the manual diluent sup- body, and the bottom ply to the same tank! is attached at the sides Connecting the rebreather or to the butt-plate and buoyancy devices to the decompression. The argu- fixed beneath the same small onboard 3-liter tank is It is not recommended that div- ments against rebreather at the but- a receipt for disaster. If the tank ers connect the BOV to the small a BOV? It is a tocks level. This is much is empty there will be no gas for onboard diluent tank that often fragile and also a more hydrodynamic! the rebreather or for maintaining has only 3-liter (15-21 ft3) capacity costly piece that buoyancy! tank, which offers too little gas in requires regular 3. In any case, the Instead these connections are the case of emergency. maintenance golden rule is to not typically evenly allocated among The arguments for a BOV? It is and may free connect the Automatic different tanks. For example: the quickest means of switching flow on occa- Diluent Valve (ADV), a ● Connect the ADV and the wing from the closed to the open cir- sion. Moreover, it regulator system that to the rebreather’s onboard dilu- cuit, which is essential in case of may represent a adds diluent to the ent tank if the dive is not deep. emergency. risk for a diver if a loop on demand to Connect the wing to one of the compensate for ambi- stages if the dive is deep or it is a

hypoxic mix tions are typically used by div- is connected ers equipped with semi-closed to the BOV passive rebreathers such as the at the time RB80, but are becoming more of switch- common with closed-circuit ing to the rebreathers with manual (mCCR) open circuit, or electronic (eCCR) controls. for example Typically the cylinder on the right near the sur- has a regulator with a long hose face. of 2m (7ft) in order to share gas with a buddy in the event of an Some other emergency. The cylinder on the things to left side has a regulator with a note: short hose that goes under the neck attached by a neck ring 1. Bailout in addition to a pressure gauge tanks can or manometer. This configura- be carried tion is an adapted deviation of as stages, the Hogarthian configuration, or may be so dear to the heart of DIR div- attached at ers. It allows them to carry huge the back of amounts of bailout gas. a rebreather at both sides 2. Usually bailout tanks are car- with or with- ried as stages, and are attached out manifold, with the spring hooks at the sides as in some of a diver. Sometimes they can DIR configu- be carried in sidemount con- rations. Such figuration where the neck of the configura- stage cylinder is attached under Bail out with Megaladon rebreather, Tahiti

76 X-RAY MAG : 56 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Bailout with semi- closed rebreather, tech talk Lot, France

shortness of breath. Finally, the diver does not necessar- ily know whether the bailout rebreather, which was not breathed during the descent, is full of water or has an

appropriate PO2 when the diver is in urgent need of it (This problem has already happened!) In that case, you completely lose your opera- tional capacity! The real benefit to a bail- out rebreather system is the huge run time (3 to 5 hours) it affords in the event of an emergency. Hence, it’s the option of choice for the divers engaged in exploration who want to achieve the best bal- ance between the run time and bulk important in Alpine technique. ■

Pascal Bernabé of France cave dive with a saw-tooth profile. in comparison with an open circuit holds the world record depth on ● Connect the back-up manually back-up. a deep dive using self-contained injected diluent to one of the off Moreover, a bailout rebreather breathing apparatus. He dived to board bailout tanks and the dry suit does not allow the diver to recover 330m on trimix in 2005 off Propriano, to another tank, if there is one, con- as quickly in the case of a CO2 hit i.e. Corsica. See; Pascalbenabe.com taining air or nitrox (helium mixes cre- ate thermal problems) or to a small With Pascal Bernabé suit inflation bottle mounted on the side of the rig. CMAS Cave Diving Instructor

B. Rebreather bailout CMAS Course Director A bailout rebreather can be carried on the back creating a double back- TDI Instructor Trainer mounted rebreather. Two rebreathers are heavy and their buoyancy is hard DIR Rebreather Instructor: to manage. The drysuit, wing and Fundamentals two full loops make at least four gas Rescue spaces to manage and vent during Overhead Cave/Wreck Diving the ascent. No easy task! A back- up rebreather can also be mounted CCR/SCR Instructor: at the side (like a stage cylinder) or Inspiration in front of the body—for example, Megalodon an M3S Triton a White Arrow Sweet Poseidon Deco. Intro to Tech In general, using a secondary Intro to DIR rebreather for bailout is much more Blending and more... expensive and difficult to manage Pascal Bernabé with semi-closed rebreather

77 X-RAY MAG : 56 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO photo & Precision control of light video Sensational

Flamboyant cuttlefish photographed Edited by Don Silcock Snoots with a snoot

Text and photos by Mike Bartick Ask any photographer the one thing they would like to improve in their underwater images and most will likely say, “The light- ing.” Lighting in photography is everything and shooting under- water often requires the photog- rapher to read the ambient light and to create durable images on the fly. Unlike terrestrial pho- tographers, underwater pho- tographers don’t have the lux- ury of time and a studio full of equipment to help design their images, so many photographers have explored other, more port- able methods to assist.

Snoots are an effective tool for under- water photography that gives the user precision control of light quality and direction that can be used for creating interesting compositions in macro pho- tography. But be sure to bring your sense of humor and be prepared for a challenge as learning to use them is anything but easy. That said, once your images begin to take shape, the additions to your port- folio and your understanding of light will reach new heights and be well worth the snoots with precise amounts of duct of them across the ocean floor from decided to re-visit my love for snoot pho- I decided to go with a manufactured effort. tape, tin foil, funnels and zip ties. These Southern California to Indonesia and tography, and after seeing some of the snoot over a DIY project—and I am I’ve carefully crafted my first crude were so effective that I think I left a trail across to the Philippines. Recently, I have new products emerging on the market, happy that I did.

78 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Needlefinger shrimp photo & video

So what exactly is a snoot? options work, I personally like to mount tip sizes, which can Well, it’s a device that fits over a strobe the device on-camera and use a long be easily changed head that controls the direction and size articulating arm for greater reach and underwater. of the strobe flash beam. The area of the control from behind my camera, which The Reefnet device beam is controlled by a variety of means enables me to limit the task load and doesn’t have an aim- depending on the brand of snoot and allows for quick and accurate changes. ing light to help find can range from a broad beam of light to There are many different brands of the subject, which a narrow more laser-like surgical tool. snoots to choose from these days. My makes it tough to Using a snoot will help you to create snoot of choice is the Reefnet Optical learn, but as a bene- more dramatic compositions through Snoot, which is basically an articulating fit, your subject won’t lighting, cut down on backscatter and arm with fiber-optic lines on the inside. turn its head away help you, the photographer, to totally The base plate fits tightly and is secured either. control the direction of light and how the over the strobe head in a screw-down I strongly recom- light source plays out in an image. method, and doesn’t fall off when adjust- mend starting with the Often snoots are used off-camera, ed. The snoot base includes one arm but single arm and larger either handheld, pointed by an assistant has dual bulkheads for two arms. Each of tip. Then, as your or mounted on a tripod. While all of these the arms includes two interchangeable patience and skill lev- els develop, add the additional arm and try the smaller tips, because while the smaller snoot tip pro- vides a tighter radius of light, it also increases the difficulty of subject requires a different method for the dramatic effect as a front lit image. using the device. lighting. Your techniques will also devel- Keep in mind that while using a snoot, The flash beam is best controlled by op around the lens selection and style of sometimes it is more of what isn’t in the the height of the tip in relation to the photos you’re creating. frame than what is. Lens selection is key subject. The closer the optic tip is to the Super-macro images tend to miss the in this aspect. subject, the narrower and more intense point of snoot lighting but can benefit I prefer the 40-60mm macro range is the beam, while elevating the tip from from the directional effect of an articu- best as it allows a tight working distance the subject broadens and softens the lating snoot. When using a 100/105mm and a better tonal quality of light since beam. lens with a diopter, I like to use a more there is less water to shoot through, and directional lighting affect by articulat- it maintains the negative space that I’m Technique ing the arm into a front lighting position, after. The negative space is a key fea- Shutter speeds, f-stops, lens choices and rather than standard top lighting. The ture of using a snoot and should not be distance to the subject all come into front lighting plays well with a narrow overlooked. play as the decisions on how to light depth of field created by using magni- your subjects will change the dynamics fiers and diopters, with the light precisely Special effects of each image. Pay close attention to positioned to accentuate features and “The Glow” is an effect that I strive for the details as overexposing the highlights decrease shadows, rather than the when shooting images of nudibranchs, can happen easily when the tip and light standard overhead strobe flash. and the more translucent the subject is, source is close to your subject. The needlefinger shrimp (above) was the better the glow will be. Using a snoot Techniques on how you use your snoot shot by top lighting the subject, and really increases that effect. will develop with experience as each while it works, I feel it doesn’t quite have The softer directional lighting of an Pandalid shrimp

79 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Phylodesmium nudibranch (right); The author’s cam- era rig setup with Snoots photo & snoot (below center) video silver

articulating snoot works well for nudi- artistic image, elevating the branchs. As they tend to move and wrap image from ordinary to some- themselves around objects, the snooted thing a bit more elegant. light will illuminate them in different ways. When I found the orange Standard strobe light creates a simi- and white gymnadoris lar effect, but the snoot seems to fill the (below), I quickly changed subject with light in a unique manner the tip to the narrow beam that compliments a nudibranch’s natural and concentrated on light- beauty and quickly creates more of an ing just the front portion of that nudi- branch. The natural teardrop shape

nudibranch while leaving everything else out. Anticipating your subject’s movement and positioning your light source, then waiting, is another useful technique for creating something special.

cinema of dreams

of the notum stubby something different. Rhinophores and flat A phylodesmium nudibranch (top colors were isolated right), or solar-powered nudibranch, is a www.seacam.com by the narrow strobe perfect subject in illustrating the glowing beam creating a spe- effect. I used the wider tip to help cap- cial composition that ture the mane-like cerata and purple again helped to create creamy pigments of the solar-powered Orange and white gymnadoris nudibranch Hypseledoris apolegma nudibranch

80 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Yawning Ambon scorpion- fish (left); Hairy frogfish (right, below); Harlequin shrimp photo & (lower left) Snoots

video backscatter to the point and the use of that there is little or nothing higher f-stops to to do to edit one’s image. retain the natu- I have noticed that the ral beauty and skin tags and filaments sur- details of your rounding an A.striatus’s face subject. form a natural frame that I have tried to bring out using Tips standard methods. I’ve In summary, even resorted to cropping here are a few my images to bring that out, tips that might but with standard lighting, I help when you have consistently missed or are attempting overlit my subject. to use a snoot The directional beam of with or without light cast by the wider tip a focus light for enabled me to hit it just aiming: right, with hardly any post • Get to know process editing. your lens and Shooting in shallow working dis- daylight conditions using tance. higher shutter speeds will • Compose decrease the ambient light your shot, then almost completely, allow- articulate the ing for rich strobe saturation snooted strobe head for lighting. era method because it takes far • Make small corrections and too long to set up the shot before Snooting scorpions movements. your subject is spooked and A surprising benefit of • Try using the snoot at home decides to move away. using my snoot was dis- before taking it underwater. Having your snoot mounted on covered while shooting a • Use the larger tip first. the strobe will help you capture smaller Ambon scorpionfish • Sedentary objects and critters more images, as you will quickly (Pteroidichthy amboinensis). make the best models. pick up a feel for the position and In the past, I have strug- • Change from landscape to lighting of your device. gled with creatively lighting portrait. Lighting is everything with Ambon scorpionfish and • Higher shutter speeds help to underwater photography, and other filamentous critters. decrease the ambient light. having the power to control Cryptic subjects blend in well • Distance of your light source the light is an effective tool that with sand and algae and from the subject will soften and should be in every underwater are difficult to separate from widen the beam. photographer’s gear box. The that element in an image. I rarely dive without a snoot changes it will make in simple or Using a top/front light- these days, especially when using complex subjects will add to your ing angle on the snoot, I my 60mm macro lens, and when portfolio, and as your skill level was able to keep the light I set up my system, I put the snoot and confidence grows, so will above the substrate and on onto my left strobe or use the your subjects and shot selections. the subject, creating a deep rich fish (A. striatus). Using the snoot on Philippines. cold shoe mount on the top of Now get out there and have an image that didn’t lose quality in the hairy’s has created incredible Subsequently, my housing. adventure! ■ the highlights. results, as the snooted light really the silt and surge It’s really important that I dedi- I enjoy shooting other benthic brings out the natural beauty of can be problem- cate my left hand to making Mike Bartick is a Photo Pro at creatures such as octopus and these special creatures. atic at times, but adjustments and my right hand Crystal Blue Resort, Anilao, flamboyant cuttlefish, but my The A. striatus tends to inhabit the snoot helps on the camera controls, as I Philippines. favorite has to be the hairy frog- the shallows here in Anilao, to decrease the don’t like the tripod or off-cam-

81 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO photo & video

Edited by PRODUCT SHOTS Don Silcock COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURERS

Sealux 4K Canon XF200 and CC1DC Housing

XF205 Camcorders Sealux has released a new housing for the Canon EOS 1D-C. The 4K CC1DC is specifically Canon has announced the imminent designed to maximise the underwater potential release of two new compact of the 1D-C’s excellent video capability of professional quality camcorders— True 4K (4096 x 2160 pixels) and innovative the XF205 and the XF 200. Both functions such as Canon Log Gamma. Sealux camcorders offer HD video in MXF has designed the 4K CC1DC housing with dial and MP4 formats plus manual controls on the left for zoom and on the right control of focus, zoom and iris. The for manual focus. It also has three viewing XF205 will retail in the United States for windows and accepts their port system. $4,400 and the XF200 for $3,900. Both s ra-boxe will be available in mid-July. me Ca BS-K from inetics Nauticam NA-A5000 Housing ng e dli BS Kinetics GmbH rg an on sy h Großweierer Straße 70 Nauticam has announced details and release omic and ea 77855 Achern Aditech Mangrove Germany dates for its new housing for the Sony A5000 Fon: +49 7841 668437 mirrorless camera. The NA-A5000 nless and Housing for Sony stai UV -res housing features access to the istant A5000’s power zoom lever, , small, AX100 ght s up to 80 which allows the lens to be li tr ed m ong riz zoomed without the usual & pressu Aditech has announced the for mera lens rings. The new housing – near f ca release of its new Mangrove ly each type o housing for the Sony FDR- also includes the port lock lever system first seen on ter photog AX100 and HDR-CX900 4K wa rap the recent Nauticam E-M1 er hy cameras. The design of MVHS- nd AX100 housing incorporates 12 housing, plus a built-in u vacuum leak detection & electromagnetic push buttons e system. The NA-A5000 will r b to control the camera via LANC. i ship from May 1 at a U.S. f

The housing also includes a rear n

retail price of $1,350. o

mounted 3.5-inch High–Resolution TFT b r

LCD monitor or an optional 3.5-inch a AUO 16:9 ultra-high resolution monitor. c m .co www.bskinetics

82 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO photo & Ikelite EOS 100D/SL1 Housing

video Ikelite has announced its new housing for the diminuitive Canon EOS 100D/Rebel SL1 camera. The housing is small and compact to reflect the essential design concept of the EOS100D/SL1 and features Ikelite’s signature TTL flash triggering. Ikelite is releasing the new housing with an optical grade acrylic dome port and zoom ring as standard, which allows both the Canon EF-S 18-55mm STM kit lens and the popular Tokina 10-17mm lens to be used—although there is some slight vignetting in the 10-12mm Nikon V3 range with the Tokina. Mirrorless Camera Nikon has released the latest iteration in its “1” line of mirrorless cameras—the V3. The camera has a 18.4-megapixel CX-format image sensor, a new EXPEED 4A image processor, 1080/60p Full HD video capabilities and can shoot at 20fps. Its ISO is 160-12,800 with high ISO noise reduction and Nikon will bundle an electronic viewfinder with the camera. The Nikon 1 V3 is available now at a bundled price of US$1200 for the camera body, 10-30mm VR zoom lens, DF-N1000 electronic viewfinder and GR-N1010 grip.

DeepPro GoPro housing DeepPro has announced that it will be releasing a new housing for GoPro HERO 3 and 3+ cameras. The GPH3 housing is manufactured from aluminum and features a dome port that is claimed to increase the GoPro’s field of view underwater to the same as it is on the surface. DeepPro also claims that the dome port means that there is no vignetting even when the GoPro is used in Superwide mode, plus the dome also reduces the minimum focus distance to six inches. The GPH3 housing is fitted with a bulkhead that will allow the use of an external monitor or recorder. No dates are currently available for when the DeepPro GPH3 housing will be available, but pre-orders are being accepted at an eventual retail price of US$1,295.

83 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO SEACAM founder photo & and CEO, Harald Hordosch, in video SEACAM Under- water Photo Academy video

SEACAM Underwater Photo Academy Online Seminars for Underwater Photographers

and English. The courses offered are de- signed for all underwater photographers who have basic knowledge and experi- ence. The explained and demonstrated techniques are not meant for exclusive use with SEACAM equipment, but can be practiced with all major brands of photo techniques, wide-angle and fisheye phto- immediately be practiced by the photo- equipment. graphy, super-macro, wreck and model grapher independently underwater. With shots, just to mention a few. The lessons sample images included in all the lessons, Professional instructor take over an hour and include a lecture, customers can also compare their work Thanks to more than 25 years of teaching demonstrations, photographs and gra- with that of a professional. photography, Kurt Amsler knows exactly phics. The lessons are provided in streaming what techniques photographers have the These “webinars” can easily replace video, easily downloaded, to make most problems with. His lessons are speci- the “classic” photography course. The viewing as convenient as possible. An fically aimed at addressing these techni- explained and demonstrated techniques added bonus is that it is also possible to ques, including flash and mixed lighting are so simple and logical that they can download these workshops onto smart- phones and tablets, so you can take them along wherever you go. Payment for the online courses can be made with credit card or PayPal. The online SEACAM store has everything fully automated for this purpose. Kurt Amsler in online seminar for SEACAM Underwater Photo Academy The webinars include lessons of diffe- rent lengths on various topics, and the pri- Text by Kurt Amsler, edited by Gunild These so-called “cyber lessons” have ces range between €80-140 (US$111-193) Symes. Photos courtesy of SEACAM been available for years in other sectors per webinar. Customers can purchase in- such as the sports or music industries, for dividual courses, but if you buy the whole SEACAM has just unveiled a series of example. In the diving and photography series at once, the price is cheaper. For online seminars in their new Underwater scene, however, this kind of dissemination each course purchased, the customer Photo Academy. Now you can learn of knowledge is absolutely new. There is will receive, as a bonus, the 50-minute about underwater photography from a nothing available at the moment com- course, The Right Equipment, for free. professional underwater photographer parable to the SEACAM Underwater Pho- via video on the Internet. Renown Swiss to Academy. The following link takes you to the FREE photographer, Kurt Amsler, conducts the There are currently nine complete download of the lesson, The Right Equip- online seminars sharing his tips, tricks and courses available, which were produced ment, and a look at all the trailers at: secrets. in a professional studio, in both German www.seacam-store.com/en/academy. ■ Various views from online seminars offered by SEACAM Underwater Photo Academy

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An Overview of Photo Editing Software

Text by Matthew Meier. Product Adobe Photoshop are incredible resources at your disposal step enhancement shortcuts, which are the online download. While Picture-Fix will images courtesy of the manufacturers For a large majority of professionals in for that knowledge gathering, includ- aimed at helping the less-experienced work on topside photographs, its strength the photo world, Adobe Photoshop is the ing online tutorials, forums, books and user obtain desired results more lies in improving Creating photos in this digital image software of choice. It classes. However, this learning quickly. www.adobe.com/prod- the exposure, age requires postproduction works with both PCs and Macs curve and/or price ucts/photoshop-elements.html contrast and color computer work to get the most and is currently available as a tag may not be suit- of underwater stand-alone or cloud-based able for everyone. Corel Paint Shop Pro images. The soft- out of your images. In days of application. Though it appears www.adobe.com/ In a similar vane, Corel’s ware is incredibly old, post processing meant time as though the future will be products/photoshop. Paintshop Pro will run you easy to use and in the darkroom developing film limited to a subscription based html around $79.99 but only works on upon import, offers in the cloud. Windows-based PC’s. It offers a nine-window and then perhaps Currently, Photoshop RAW, HDR and plug-in support preview of pos- hours spent mas- Photoshop is Elements with 64-bit performance. The sible corrections to saging the final print available at At a more reason- software has a wide array of the original photo. under an enlarger. US$9.99 per able price of $99.99, editing tools including layers, Once selected, month for Adobe Photoshop brushes, quick selection and the improved The techniques may subscribers Elements is a simpler vector tools. Like Elements, photo may be have changed but and a one- version of the flagship Paintshop Pro has a shortcut further fine-tuned the concept is the time cost of model. The software feature they call Smart Photo by adjusting a $649 for the contains similar fea- Fixes, which are suggested cor- handful of sliders, same. The real ques- previous CS6 tures, though less in rections that may be accepted and/or in a side by side display with the original tion is where do you stand-alone number and also works fine-tuned. Video learning is also image. At this time, there are no local- start? version. on Macs and PCs. It available for assistance ized adjustments, layering, metadata or As the most expen- offers global and local- along the way. www. text overlay available, and the software sive option on the mar- ized adjustments, the paintshoppro.com only supports the processing of JPG files. There are many options ket, it stands to reason, ability to process RAW All edits are non-destructive, and the on the market that vary that this is also the files, sharing to social VividPix Picture- final adjusted photo is saved as a new from easy to complicat- most feature rich and media sites and is easi- Fix file, leaving the original untouched. New ed, expensive to free of powerful image editing er to use. One of the newest features, just released, allow control of charge, and your choice tool out there. The soft- Numerous video tuto- options on the market sharpness and crop, and the website will depend on your level of ware allows for global rials and online forums is designed specifically contains a video and FAQ section with expertise and/or expectation. and localized adjustments, innumerable help with the learn- for amateur under- the full overview of the software. While This article is by no means meant to be a effects, layering, and the ability to pro- ing curve, but there is water photographers. a bit limited in scope by comparison to definitive glossary of photo editing soft- cess RAW files, plus the organization of still effort involved in Vivid-Pix’s Picture-Fix the other options listed here, Vivid-Pix is ware but more of an overview of several photos through Bridge. mastering this applica- software works on a great tool for the budding underwater of the top players at various levels on the Photoshop is also complex, requiring tion. To help they have both Mac’s and PC’s photographer looking to improve the spectrum. ample time and effort to master. There added several one- and costs $49.99 for look of their pictures. www.vivid-pix.com

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Google Picasa sional level is soft- able for the speed at which it helps them on the web through Photo Stream and uses the same RAW processing engine There are several free ware called Photo sort through mountains of images after furthermore allows for the creation of as Photoshop and is fully integrated for image editing software Mechanic. It works returning from a job. The current photo books. Like Photo Mechanic, advanced editing techniques as well. on the market, and one on Macs and PCs price online is $150. www.cam- some of the terminology used All adjustments are non-destructive and of the easier to use is but does not pro- erabits.com/products is a bit different, but there are include both global and local changes. Google Picasa. It works on cess RAW files or many online tutorials and The vast majority of Photoshop tools Windows, Mac and Linux even edit pho- Apple Aperture forums to aid in the educa- necessary for image enhancements are systems but currently offers tographs. Photo Last but not least on the list tional process. available in Lightroom, save layers and no iCloud support. Picasa Mechanic is a are two programs that not As in most of these pro- some specific localized adjustments. In does support RAW images fast import, pre- only aid in image editing, grams, images must first fact, many photographers use Lightroom and has an array of photo view, selection, but also do a masterful job be imported into Aperture for most of their image corrections and effects, plus features like geo organization and of keeping track of your photo before use, and they are edit in Photoshop only when necessary. and name tagging along metadata tool. It library. The first is Apple Aperture, then stored according to fold- Additionally, Lightroom keeps track of with facial recognition. The offers direct upload to standard ser- which is a Mac only software that is ers. Unfortunately, that filing structure all of your images, regardless of whether software is intuitive, has good organiza- vices and exports to other applications listed at $79.99. It offers local and global itself is hidden from the user, and in my or not they are on your computer or tion tools and offers side by side editing for editing. The software uses unconven- adjustments, support of RAW files, numer- opinion, is one of the pitfalls of this sys- external hard drive. It has an excellent to compare changes made from the tional terminology, so there is a bit of a ous effects and multimedia sharing, while tem when trying to retrieve images. It printing interface, creates slideshows, original file. Picasa contains an extensive learning curve to using it, however, many being fully integrated with Apple’s iPho- is not possible to look on the hard drive exports to the web and also allows for online help system and is designed for pros consider Photo Mechanic invalu- to. Aperture automatically shares photos for a folder of images, book creation through easy sharing of photos on Google+ and so the only way to Blurb. social networks. picasa.google.com access them is through This is an incredibly ver- Aperture. That being satile tool, but its immense Gimp said, this program offers array of features certainly Another free option with near Photoshop- a great many more requires time and energy like image editing capabilities is called features than most oth- to understand. Lightroom Gimp. It also works on Windows, Mac ers in this price range has an extensive built- and Linux systems but is considerably and should not be in help system, plus a more complicated to use than Picasa. dismissed. www.apple. plethora of online tutorials, Gimp supports RAW images, plus layer- com/aperture forums, books and classes ing and plug ins. It offers a vast array of to assist in that process. photo effects but in a less intuitive and Photoshop www.adobe.com/prod- cramped interface. There are tutorials Lightroom ucts/photoshop-lightroom. on the Gimp website and online forums The final software offer- html ■ to reference for questions. For capabili- ing is Adobe Photoshop ties resembling Photoshop, at none of Lightroom. It is cur- Editor Matthew Meier is a the cost, this software may be worth the rently obtainable as a professional underwater, learning curve and inherent quirks. stand-alone applica- nature and travel photog- www.gimp.org tion for $149 and in conjunction with rapher living in San Diego, California, USA. Photoshop as a subscription from the For more information, visit: www.matthew- Photo Mechanic cloud. Lightroom runs on both Macs and meierphoto.com Another major player at the profes- PCs and will process RAW files. In fact, it

HEWHOE / WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

Gimp running on Linux system

86 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Brazil’s

FernandoText and photos by Michel Braunstien de Noronha Jewel of Nature 87 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Noronha

Employees counting dolphins (left side of photo) at Baia dos Golfinhos

If I were to tell you about 21 volcanic islands and is located at a special place where 360km (224mi) from the closest coast of Brazil (Natal). Spreading over a no one locks their doors total area of 26 squ km, it is located in at night, where crime is the Atlantic Ocean near the Equator virtually nonexistent, where (3° 51′S, 32° 25′W). The main island, the number of tourists is the only one which is inhabited, is about 10km long (6m) and up to 3km intentionally restricted to wide (1.8mi). The archipelago gained preserve the ecological international media attention after balance, and where each the terrible accident on 1 June 2009 visitor must pay a daily fee of Air France Flight 447 flying from Rio to Paris, as searches were conducted of 15 Euros (approximately by the Brazilian Air Force from the US$20) to protect the archipelago.1 environment, would you think History about Brazil? Probably not! Discovered in 1503 by the Portuguese, the archipelago was named after Yet, Brazil’s tiny archipelago of Fernao de Loronha who received Fernando de Noronha still resists the it as a gift in 1504 from his friend, changes and other influences from King Manoel I of Portugal. However, the continent. The archipelago entails Loronha quickly forgot this gift and The fabulous Baia do Sancho View of Morro do Pico from dive boat. PREVIOUS PAGE: Splendid arch underwater at Pedras Secas

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Fernando de Noronha‘s church; Atlantis dive club fleet; Location where pris- oners were punished in colonial times; Buggies are the ultimate vehicles on Noronha

the U.S. forces as a military transportation and allow driving outside Beaches base during World War II and the main axis. At sunset, whilst visiting Baia again in the late 50′s and dos porcos, you can admire, early 60′s during the cold war Nature and conservation the Dois Irmaos, the two against Soviet Union. Since The site’s nature conservation is renowned tiny sister islands. 1988, the islands have been exceptional; it has a rich and varied Morro do Pico, an impressive open to tourism, 85 percent flora and fauna. Non-governmental peak rock, is another one of of which being of Brazilian protection agencies for the study of the local spots. origin. Over two thirds of various species are quite active on the The main island is the archipelago’s total land island and entail projects such as the surrounded by 16 heavenly surface is a marine national Projeto Golfinho Rotador for the dolphins, beaches that are clean and park, classified since 2002 as the Tamar Project for the turtles, and almost deserted, making it part of the UNESCO world other projects pertaining to the study of almost impossible not to stop heritage. sharks, birds and crustaceans. and have a look. Some environmental mistakes made Baia do Sancho is without Hotels and long ago by the Portuguese can still a doubt the most sumptuous beach is rather difficult, involving a hike down transportation be noticed today. For example, two and is rated first in the Brazilian beach a steep cliff, 50 meters (164 feet) high, never saw it at all. There are no hotels on this preserved site different lizard species were introduced ratings. The water is crystal clear and if you wish to swim. Two ladders allow Ruled by England, then France, and but there are living units, or pousadas, in to eat rats but preferred eggs, chicks the shoreline is bordered by dense crossing of a narrow opening between then by the Netherlands, the archipelago private homes. Infrastructure is very basic. and turtles that have just hatched; vegetation. This is an ideal place for the rocks, followed by a large flight of came again under the yoke of Portugal A single seven-kilometer paved road unfortunately, it is now too late to reverse snorkeling. You can often see stingrays, stairs that leads to the beach. This is not in 1737. crosses the inhabited island. Buggies the process. turtles, as well as other species. easy, but it is well worth the effort for Mainly a prison colony, it was used by are commonly used as a means of Nevertheless, access to the beach both the experience and the view.

89 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Noronha

Diver passes through a narrow passageway on the way to Caverna de Sapata

Dolphins’ Bay dolphins. Noronha has the largest Baia dos Golfinhos—the Bay of spinner dolphin count and population Dolphins—is near Sancho Bay. A large density in the world, in a single place. number of spinner dolphins (Stenella longirostris) swim together here every Turtles beach morning at dawn. They come to the bay Baia do Sueste is at the other end of to seek shelter after a night of hunting the island and sea turtles come there before returning to their marine odyssey. to lay their eggs between December These spinner dolphins, commonly and June. Nests are protected by the named golfinho rotadores in Portuguese, Tamar Project patrol (Projeto Tamar). are known for their spectacular jumps. You can see turtles here throughout the They can perform up to seven spins year if you swim beyond the bay’s surf, during the same jump. An impressive equipped with a mask, snorkel and fins. amount of them can be seen from the observatory at the top of the cliff, some Diving 50 meters above the sea. All year round in Noronha, you can have Every morning, the employees of the great quality dives, thought to be some Projeto Golfinho Rotador organization of the most magnificent of the South count the dolphins to monitor their American continent. The water has a is at its best. Although you won’t find progress. Daily, on average, 315 dolphins pleasant average temperature of 26°C. coral or macro life here as it exists in reach the bay to breed, care for their The visibility is outstanding, ranging from the Indian Ocean, the underwater young, or seek shelter from shark attacks. 25 to 45 meters. During the months of world of Noronha is mainly interesting At times, one can even count up 2,000 September and October, the visibility for its volcanic rock formations, narrow Diver in narrow passageway; Turtle (right) asleep during night dive, Perdras Secas

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passageways, tunnels and caves, you can even come across a turtle making it a very special place. Marine sleeping under a rock. There are many species are generally very large and schools of fish, and on occasion, you quite numerous. It is not uncommon to can see manta rays and hammerhead encounter dolphins underwater, and if sharks. you miss them there, you can often see them swimming alongside boats. Wrecks The Corvette Ipiranga V17 wreck is that Sapata Cave of a Brazilian Navy warship that sank The magnificent Sapata Cave has in 1982, after hitting a rock that did a very wide entrance with which a not appear on any map. She drifted little imagination makes you think of a and sank during an eight-hour stretch, mouth. A large grouper lives within the reaching the seabed at 62 meters deep entrance, and although it still appears (203 feet) in perfectly straight position. to be quite young, it already weighs She remains in excellent condition. over a hundred kilograms (220 pounds). Diving into the wreck requires trimix, which can be relatively expensive, Fauna and requires very accurate preliminary During each dive, large stingrays are training. On the wreck’s deck, there is visible. Barrel sponges are very common. still a heavy machine gun. Reef sharks and nurse sharks can be In Noronha’s port, there is another met mainly in the superb reef of Pedras wreck which is accessible by snorkeling Secas. Sometimes, during a night dive, as it is only about six meters deep (20 Large barrel sponge (above); Stingray at 42m depth (top left); Diver between huge lava rocks (left)

91 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Noronha

Huge lava rocks underwater (above); Diver in splendid entrance to Sapata Cave (top left); Divers in swim-through (left); Giant grouper, Sapata Cave (right)

sized planes landing there because locals do not speak English. every day. This place has a You can also get in touch with unique charm as a result of Adriana Schmidt from Your Way all these factors, making it a travel agency in Noronha. She’s a true jewel of nature and a true great guide and perfectly fluent in delight to the eyes. English. She can help you with any kind of reservation on the island. Dive clubs Email her at: [email protected]. and tourism info br. There are only three dive clubs in the small archipelago. The Michel Braunstein is a Belgian nicest and most professional underwater photographer and one, with the best ships, is dive writer based in Israel. For Atlantis Divers owned by more information, visit: www. feet). These are the partial remains of of environmental preservation. The Patrick Muller. The two others are michelbraunstein.com a Greek ship named Eleana Stathatos tourist industry remains limited due to Noronha Divers and Aguas Claras. that sank in 1929. the small infrastructure and means of If you don’t speak Portuguese, take SOURCES: 1 EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG/WIKI/AIR_ Fernando de Noronha is a model access; there are only two medium a dictionary with you to Noronha, FRANCE_FLIGHT_447

92 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO NASA fact file Brazil RIGHT: Global map with location Paulo and Rio Hospital UNIAD of Noronha. LOWER de Janeiro Rua Pacifica dos Santos#71 RIGHT: Location of as well as – Bairro Pais Noronha on map naval facili- Recifie, PE Brazil 52010-030 of Brazil SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, ties along the Phone: +55 81 3423-4431 RAF.MOD.UK, WIKIPEDIA, WWWNC.CDC.GOV coast, but the closest facility Travel/Visa/Security History After over 300 years of try, with the exception of Ecaudor world markets, Brazil has, since is around 545m Travellers from North America, Portuguese rule, Brazil gained its and Chile. Coastline: 7,491km. 2003, improved its macroeco- (338mi) away in most of Africa, Middle East, Asia independence in 1822. It main- Terrain consists primarily of flat to nomic stability. Economic meas- Recife, so please and Australia are required to tained a monarchical system undulating lowlands in the north, ures have seen the country’s of government until 1888 when with a few plains, hills and moun- foreign reserves rise and its debt other VEN. GUY. Fr. slavery was abolished and the tains, as well as a belt of narrow profile fall. Strong growth prior Catholic SUR. Gui. military subsequently proclaimed coast. Lowest point: Atlantic to the 2008 global financial crisis 0.4%, Protes- (FR) NORTH ATLANTIC COL. Boa the country a republic in 1889. Ocean 0m. Highest point: Pico da was followed by two quarters of tant 22.2%, other Vista Equator OCEAN Exporters of Brazilian coffee Neblina 2,994m. recession but then the country Christian 0.7%, Spiritist 2.2%, other Fernando de dominated politics in the country was one of the first emerging religions 1.4% (2010 est.) Internet Belem São Luís Noronha A until 1930 when populist leader Climate Primarily tropical, Brazil markets to begin a recovery. users: 75.982 million (2009) m azon Manaus Fortaleza Getulio Vargas rose to power. does have temperate climate in Growth increased leading to ris- Teresina Over five decades of populist the south. Natural hazards include ing inflation in 2010, so the gov- Language Portuguese is the Natal Rio and military government passed floods and sometimes frost in ernment took measures to slow official language and most widely Branco Recife before power was finally peace- the south as well as periodical the economy in the following spoken. Other, less common lan- Maceió fully ceded to civilian rulers in droughts in the northeast. years. Unemployment is at an all guages include Spanish, German, 1985. Brazil, being the largest and time low while the gap in income Italian, Japanese, English, and PERU Salvador most populous country in South Environmental issues inequality has steadily decreased. several Amerindian languages BRASÍLIA America, continues to pursue Deforestation in the Amazon High interest rates attract foreign BOLIVIA growth in the industrial and agri- Basin is destroying habitat and investors, but the large inflow of Health Campo Belo Grande Horizonte cultural sectors while developing endangering a myriad of indig- capital in recent years has hurt There is a risk of hepatitis A and Tubarao a its interior, exploiting its vast natu- enous animal and plant species. manufacturing, so government typhoid through food and water n São Vitória ra a Paulo ral resources and a large labor A lucrative illegal wildlife trade intervention in foreign exchange contamination; dengue, leish- PARA. P CHILE Rio de Janeiro o Curitiba pool. Today, it is South America’s is also having an adverse effect and taxation was necessary. The maniasis and Chagas disease i Santos leading economic power. As a on indigenous species. Rio de current administration is commit- from bug bites; as well as malaria, SOUTH R regional leader, Brazil is one of Janeiro, Sao Paulo, and other ted to fiscal restraint, combatting rabies and yellow fever in some PACIFIC Porto OCEAN Alegre the first in the area to begin eco- large cities are plagued with air inflation and maintaining a float- remote areas. Check with your ARGENTINA nomic recovery. However, there and water pollution. Improper ing exchange rate. doctor 4-6 weeks before your trip SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN is still large inequality in income mining activities is causing land for details and updates on vac- URU. distribution in the country, and degradation and water pollution. Currency Reals (BRL) cination requirements and health crime remains a pressing issue. Other challenges include wetland Exchange rates: 1EUR=3.05BRL; risks. For helpful tips for travelers to Government: Federal republic. degradation as well as devastat- 1USD= 2.21BRL; 1GBP=3.70BRL; Brazil, visit http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/ check with your dive operator for apply for tourist visas from their Capital: Brasilia. ing oil spills. 1AUD= 2.08BRL; 1SGD= 1.78BRL travel/destinations/traveler/none/ more details. local Brazilian embassy for tour- brazil ist travel to Brazil. Tourist visas are Geography Brazil is located in Economy With vast and well- Population 202,656,788 (July Hospital Sao Marcos valid for up to 90 days. Eastern South America and bor- developed agricultural, manufac- 2014 est.) Ethnic groups: white Decompression chamber Rua Domingos Ferreira, ders the Atlantic Ocean. As the turing, mining and service sectors, 47.7%, mulatto (white and black Fernando de Noronha is remote. 63 Sala 317 – Pina Web sites largest country in South America, Brazil has the largest economy mix) 43.1%, black 7.6%, Asian There are several chambers in Recife, PE Brazil 51011-050 Brazil Tourism Brazil shares common boundaries of all the South American coun- 1.1%, indigenous 0.4% (2010 est.) private and military hospital facili- 24-Hour Phone: +55 81 3465-9126 www.visitbrasil.com with every South American coun- tries. Expanding its presence in Religions: Roman Catholic 64.6%, ties in Brazil’s larger cities of Sao

93 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Erika Pochybova-Johnson

PORTFOLIO

94 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Edited by Gunild Symes portfolio Photos courtesy of Erika Pochybova-Johnson Pochybova-Johnson

A Shrimp, 8.5 x 11 inches (above) and Aftermath, 44 x 68 inches (previous page) acrylic on canvas by Erika Pochybova-Johnson

Originally from Slavakia, self- X-RAY MAG: Tell us about your back- the Bojnice Castle (a five-minute walk taught artist Erika Pochybova- ground, your roots and how you from our house) and touring the cas- became an artist. tle and its exhibits (including numer- Johnson creates brilliant, spell- ous traveling art shows of European binding, intricate paintings EPJ: I grew up in Bojnice, which is art) was one of the most pleasant inspired by nature, the sea an old city [in Slovakia] known for and interesting activities I did through- and its creatures. Now based its tourist attractions, such as one of out my youth. In addition, both of the most visited castles in Europe my parents are big appreciators of in Lubbock, Texas, the artist (first mentioned in 1113), the oldest European art (in any form) and we shared with X-RAY MAG her zoo in Slovakia and one of the old- took many trips throughout the coun- artistic vision and connection est spa resorts in Slovakia. The house try to visit many historical areas that to the underwater world. in which I grew up is located right by contain amazing collections of art. Red Reef, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 34 x 24 inches

95 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO portfolio Pochybova-Johnson In addition, the town lies in the Nitra River valley tion in the viewer or present a new way of look- and is surrounded by beautiful mountains. Often, ing at a familiar thing. It is like a conversation we would take hiking trips, mushroom-hunting without words between two people who have trips, or just simply trips into woods and explore never met. This simple yet magical quality is what the wonders of the surrounding nature. I believe has drawn me to making art. For me, making these experiences have not only established my art is about adding some beauty to the world. strong appreciation for art, beauty and nature Whether it is beauty in truth, beauty in nature or but also have influenced my work and my vision beauty in and of itself, art objects have contrib- of the world considerably. uted to the quality of human life for centuries.

X-RAY MAG: What is your artistic mission or vision? X-RAY MAG: What about the sea and its crea- tures inspires you? EPJ: The arts, in general, are a means of sharing the human experience. The visual arts, in particu- EPJ: As a visual artist, the colors, shapes and lines lar, imbue an object, such as a painting or sculp- of sea animals and plants are especially inter- ture, with a wordless language of thought, emo- esting because they are so different from what tion and visual experience. The object is static, we normally see as surface creatures. I love the but it can bridge the gaps of space and time. variety in their colors, the refracted light of the The artist’s vision can trigger a feeling of recogni- underwater world, and how their forms move

with expressive gestures in seemingly zero Undulating, by Erika gravity. To me, it all combines to create a Pochybova-Johnson. magical new dimension of life on Earth that Acrylic on canvas, is not appreciated often enough. The sea 24 x 34 inches and its creatures inspire me with awe. Black Sea, by Erika X-RAY MAG: Tell us about your experience Pochybova-Johnson. in the underwater world, scuba diving or Acrylic on canvas, snorkeling. How and why did you start div- 23 x 16 inches ing? (left)

EPJ: I have always loved water. I almost drowned when I was a toddler, and after that, I spent countless hours in the water, learning to swim and swimming. When I was 15, I signed up for a scuba diving course. This brought a completely new dimension to my already developed love for water and swimming.

X-RAY MAG: What are your favorite dive sites, underwater subjects, locations? Gliding, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 24 x 34 inches

96 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO portfolio Pochybova-Johnson

Octopus’ Garden, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 16 x 21 inches

EJP: I don’t really get to dive much any- X-RAY MAG: Tell us about your paintings... demically trained in painting, I do not think more since I live in a very dry part of the How are they made? of predefined rules, and I do not find any world. But my favorite place that I have need to follow them—I do not even want been recently was on the northwest coast EPJ: I think that the fact that I am a self- to know what those rules are. I invented my of Costa Rica. In the water, I just love to see taught artist contributes considerably to my unique painting style intuitively. My images anything with color. unique vision and the consequent unique- are created with thousands of dots that I ness of my work. Because I am not aca- carefully place, one by one by, on the sur- Jellyfish, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 24 x 14 inches

97 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO portfolio Pochybova-Johnson Small Jellyfish, by Erika Strolling, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, Acrylic on canvas, 11 x 8.5 inches 16 x 23 inches (below)

the beauty that is present in nature and the plants and animals of the underwater world— and how fragile it is. One example: It has been almost 37 months since the Tohoku earthquake triggered a tsuna- mi that devastated eastern Japan and severely damaged the nuclear reactors in Fukushima. This tragic event, that resulted in a continuous leak of harmful radioactivity, was the inspiration for my painting, Aftermath. At first glance, one feels the positive energy, a glorious underwa- ter world, teeming with seemingly playful life. But upon further observation, one may won- der about a strangely out of place Japanese motorcycle. The sea creatures appear disturbed

Red Lobster, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 16 x 20 inches

face of my paintings. I like to impro- X-RAY MAG: Do you use underwa- ries or visions. And painting is a won- vise when I work; I choose colors in ter photography—your own or other derful medium for enticing people my work intuitively, and often, I do sources? into looking at something in a new not know what the final image is way. going to look like. I love moments EPJ: I do not paint from photo- of surprise in my work. I do not look graphs, per se. I look at many imag- X-RAY MAG: How does your art at my pieces from a distance to es and create my own composition relate to conservation or environ- evaluate them until they are more from various source materials and mental issues facing our oceans than 80 percent done, and that, my imagination. I do not want to and reefs? for me, makes the entire process copy an image that I have already even more fun and interesting. I like taken or seen, but rather create EPJ: One powerful element, to to express what I see in a way that something that has never been which people respond, is beauty. seems very natural to me, and per- seen. My paintings represent an There is nothing quite like beauty, haps this contributes to the unique- imaginary world that is influenced and people pay attention when ness of my style and imagery. by real life experiences, encounters, they see something beautiful. My and are recollections of my memo- goal is to bring awareness about

98 X-RAY MAG : 60 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Aftermath #2, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson Acrylic on canvas, portfolio 24 x 36 inches

X-RAY MAG: Why art? Why is art important? What are the chal- lenges and benefits of being an artist today?

EPJ: I enjoy making art because it makes me feel like I am con- tributing something positive to the world. Looking at other people’s art, past and present, has enriched my life, and I want to contribute a little something to the giant fabric of human culture. There are some chal- lenges with being an artist but the rewards, both personal and professional, far outweigh them. And to me, true artistic suc- cess is having the peace, time and resources that allow one to make art for most of the time one spends on Earth.

X-RAY MAG: What’s next? New? Upcoming?

EPJ: My goal is to continue striving to bring more beauty to the world with my paintings… and per- haps raise the awareness about the fragility of nature. I want to pay tribute to nature’s purity and hope that our civilization will learn to live in harmony with that. I also would like to learn to see the world through the eyes of animals, whose spirits are pure, and discover some universal truths that would help us humans get along in the world. I continue to have some hope. ■

Jellyfish #2, by Erika and anxious about this unnatural intrusion. For more information and to purchase art work or Pochybova-Johnson. Barely visible, like radioactivity, in the chaos prints, visit: www.ebova.com or www.erika-pochy- Acrylic on canvas, are arrangements of particles that form float- bovajohnson.artistwebsites.com/index.html. 27 x 19 inches ing radioactive symbols and the logo of Tepco. (Tepco is the electric power company that was responsible for maintaining the nuclear reac- tors.) When one takes the time to really see and contemplate the painting, it reveals a more complex world where all is not well. Aftermath is, at once, a tribute to some of the miraculous life our planet has produced and a warning about the fragility of that life—an apology to Nature. Aquatic Apparition, by Erika Pochybova- Curious, by Erika Pochybova-Johnson Johnson. Acrylic on canvas, 32 x 24 inches Acrylic on canvas, 10 x 8 inches

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