† REVELING IN THE REGION

River City Brews

BEER BARS ABOUND and sophisticated city. From swanky » cocktail lounges to rustic dive bars, and Leave the fishing gear behind and par- everything in between, Missoula quenches take in a favorite local pastime: whiling your well-earned thirst. Carouse your away the afternoon as you float lazily way around town as you will, just know down the river. The that you’ll eventually find a lot of beer in bisects the town and the Blackfoot and Missoula, the city where ’s craft Bitterroot rivers are also nearby. One Missoula: beer scene was born. local resident described Missoula as “a Let’s face it, one of the reasons you drinking town with a river-floating came to Montana is to see the wildlife, problem.” The locals often do it on inner and one of the best places to do that is tubes, but RIVER CITY BREWS offers fully Montanan THE RHINOCEROS BAR. Rustic, friendly but outfitted rafting trips that include a beer- a little rough around the edges, “The and cider-tasting experience that high- Rhino” was one the very first bars in lights the wares of local producers. the entire state to offer any craft beer towers over Get dirty, sweaty and wet, then find for Beer the at all. Since 1987 the bar has featured 50 your way back into town to enjoy a civ- and the rest of Missoula beers on tap. Along with that, the menu ilized evening in this surprisingly urbane includes an impressive selection of top- shelf whiskeys that would make most or travelers headed east on Interstate spend some time enjoying the abundant big-city whiskey bars blush. The Rhinoceros Bar Discover the Craft 90 from the Pacific Northwest, the outdoor recreation opportunities that Also a bit gruff and frowzy in a Drink Hub that is F booming college town of Missoula Montana affords. Consider a ramble on loveable, Montana way, CHARLIE B’S is is the gateway to Montana, the first one of several nearby trails, like a hike up a favorite for many locals who might Montana’s Second- settlement of any magnitude you’ll discover Mount Sentinel, towering over the city to simultaneously describe it as a dive bar, after crossing the state line. Many folks the southeast. Another close-in and much a college bar, a cowboy bar and a hippie Largest City use Montana’s second-largest city as a rest mellower option is the Waterworks Hill bar. The walls are decked with dozens of stop along the way to Yellowstone National trail, which provides expansive views hauntingly striking, black-and-white, 8 x Park or other attractions deeper into the of the city and the Bitterroot Valley. If 10-inch photographs of celebrities’ faces, Treasure State, but there are plenty of your idea of relaxation involves a fishing many of whom are only famous because BY KENDALL JONES reasons to make Missoula your destination. rod and a river, get hooked up with a of the time they spent sitting at the bar at Among them, a vibrant nightlife and a guide, some advice or whatever gear you Charlie B’s. At the back of the room, the blossoming drinks culture. need at The Angler Fly Shop; DINOSAUR CAFÉ — affectionately known as Before you settle in for your first they’ve helped people get out on the river the Dino — serves surprisingly authentic round of whatever wets your whistle, since 1987. Cajun food from a small service window.

38 SIPNORTHWEST.COM PHOTO COURTESY DESTINATION MISSOULA SIPNORTHWEST.COM 39 Caption † REVELING IN THE REGION REST YOUR HEAD and taproom, the company built an amphi- theater that hosts some impressive touring musical acts during the warmer months. GOLDSMITH’S BED AND Located in an old brick warehouse in BREAKFAST » The historic Missoula’s historic Westside neighborhood, brick home, now 108 years DRAUGHT WORKS BREWERY is creating some old, has a storied past and of the city’s most creative beers, like Sweet the innkeeper will be happy » GRAINS AND APPLES Heat Habañero IPA, Cucumber Mojito Sour to share its amazing history There’s nothing wild or rustic about PLONK, and Rosé Deux American Sour. The build- with you. Located right a chic downtown lounge where the menu ing’s interior is beautiful, with an amazing across the river from the includes to-die-for craft cocktails and a arched, oak beam ceiling. But the real star university, it’s a 10-minute sizable selection of wines — somewhat of the show is the massive patio with seating walk to downtown. The seven rare around these parts. Brick walls, tin for dozens of thirsty patrons. rooms are comfortable, but ceilings and white tablecloths are illumi- Western Cider For those outside the state’s borders, you’ll want to spend plenty nated by antique, hanging light fixtures. If Moose Drool brown ale is probably Montana’s of time on the front porch the weather agrees, the rooftop patio is a watching the river roll by. Montgomery most recognizable beer, but that’s just one lovely place to enjoy a summer’s eve beneath window, share one of the large kitchen-style Distillery of the offerings at BIG SKY BREWING CO. The CITY CENTER MOTEL This strings of Edison bulbs. If you’re a home- tables or sidle up to the bar, which dates back BUT YOU SAID BEER brewery opened its first taproom in 2017, so » sick city slicker, this is the place for you. to 1889 when the place was built as a saloon » classic Eisenhower-era motel Along the main drag, west of downtown, you can now sample all the beers and pick And if you’re looking for an upscale meal, and liquor distribution warehouse. has been reimagined and IMAGINE NATION BREWING opened in 2015 your pint. In the summer, the brewery hosts Plonk offers a big list of imaginative small If you’ve got a hankering for some remodeled to offer everything and quickly became a local favorite. The tap- an outdoor concert series that always fea- plates along with some larger and heartier cider and maybe some square dancing, you need and nothing you room is cozy and spills out onto a riverside tures some big-name acts. This year’s lineup don’t. Now in the care of a options, like the Montana-raised beef ten- visit WESTERN CIDER about a mile west of patio. The brewery makes a lot of different includes Brad Paisley and Jackson Browne. local married couple, they’ve derloin served with a black garlic reduction downtown. Dubbed Missoula’s first cidery, styles, and has a special knack for hazy IPAs; No discussion of beer in Missoula, or lovingly brought it into the and a caper chimichurri. Western Cider began planting its own but the flagship beer, Freedom Fighter IPA, Montana for that matter, would be com- 21st century while offering No drink-minded visitor should miss orchards in the Bitterroot Valley in 2012 and is always a safe bet. Inside or out, the tap- plete without a nod to BAYERN BREWING a budget-conscious lodging MONTGOMERY DISTILLERY, where they craft today produces a wide range of ciders using, room often hosts live music. Monday is usu- (pronounced BYE-ern). At the brewery, they option near the heart of award-winning spirits of all types, including in part at least, estate-grown apples. Beyond ally open mic night, Tuesday is reserved for operate a taproom as well as a full-service downtown. whiskey, gin, vodka and aquavit. The team the spacious taproom, a riverside cider gar- traditional Irish jam sessions and Saturday restaurant, the EDELWEISS BISTRO, serving concocts exquisite cocktails with fresh- den invites you to enjoy the Montana sun. features rotating local musicians. Food is authentic German-style food like curry- HOLIDAY INN MISSOULA squeezed juice and fresh-picked herbs in a Ask about the Old Time Cider Jams (think, available from a permanently parked food wurst and wiener schnitzel. Montana’s old- DOWNTOWN » While it tasting room that is stylishly decorated, yet fiddles and acoustic guitars) and, yes, the truck offering Middle Eastern cuisine like est craft brewery still focuses on authentic, might lack charm and local includes a touch of Montana kitsch (like taxi- square dancing. Apparently, Missoula’s flan- kebabs, falafel and shawarma. Bavarian-style just as it has since 1987. character, you cannot beat dermy). Sink into a plush booth at the front nel-clad millennials like to dance as their the downtown, riverfront KETTLEHOUSE BREWING operates three Enjoy all that the city has to offer, but make grandparents did. location. This large hotel breweries in the area, each with a taproom; sure you stop by the brewery that gave birth Savvy cider- and beer-loving travelers offers all the amenities you’d but if you’re only going to visit one, you’ll to Montana’s modern craft beer culture. Plonk always bring an empty growler or two along expect from a national chain, want to slide into the original. Across the After a hike, a float or whatever adventure for the ride, and there’s no better place to fill like a well-equipped fitness river, south of downtown, KettleHouse you’ve enjoyed, a tall, cold glass of Bayern them up than THE DRAM SHOP, which offers center, an indoor pool, a Southside is a well-worn, cozy and comfort- Brewing’s Montana Original seems 37 taps of mostly local libations. It’s a clean, restaurant and bar, and a able neighborhood hangout that teems with necessary and oh-so-appropriate. l modern space where you are also invited to business center. hyper-local beer lovers, many traveling by hunker down for a pint or two. Note that if foot or bike. The crowd is as diverse as the you left some important camping, hiking or beer offerings, with blue-collar workers Imagine Nation adventure gear at home, you’re in luck. The Brewing mingling with urban professionals and Dram Shop is right next door to a legendary college professors. Definitely try at least a outdoor gear shop, The Trailhead. sample of the Cold Smoke Scotch Ale, which is probably Montana’s most popular beer, or

The Dram Shop at least its most ubiquitous. The company’s second brewery and taproom, the Northside Brewery, is larger in terms of taproom size and brewing capacity. Located near the train yards, the building was originally constructed in 1909 and served as a trackside warehouse in its previous life. KettleHouse Brewing’s third location is a few miles upriver in the town of Bonner where, in addition to a brewery

40 SIPNORTHWEST.COM TOP PHOTO BY KIM SHARPE JONES; RIGHT PHOTO BY PAM VOTH PHOTOGRAPHY SIPNORTHWEST.COM 41