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1 The Best of New Mexico

I will never forget when I was in second grade, standing on the dusty playground at Alvarado Elementary School in Albuquerque, pointing west toward the volcanoes. “We went beyond those volcanoes,” I bragged to my friend about what my family had done over the weekend. “No way,” my friend replied. Actually, a number of times I’d been much farther than the 10 miles between us and the volcanoes, and I now know that the strong impact of the journey’s distance had to do with culture rather than miles. In a half-day drive, we traveled to the Intertribal Indian Ceremonial in Gallup, where I ate blue, crepe-paper-thin piki bread and gazed up at people dressed in dreamy rich velvet, their limbs draped in turquoise. I saw painted warriors twirl in the dust and felt drum rhythm pulse in my heart. In short, we had traveled to another world, and that otherworldliness is characteristic of New Mexico. Never have I taken my strangely exotic home state for granted, nor has more tradi- tional culture let me. When I was a kid, we used to travel to Illinois to visit my grand- father, and when people there heard we were from New Mexico, they would often cock their heads and say things like “Do you have sidewalks there?” and “This bubble gum must be a real treat for you,” as though such inventions hadn’t yet arrived in my home state. Our state magazine even dedicates a full page each month to the variety of ways in which New Mexico is forgotten. The most notable was when a New Mexico resident called the Atlanta Olympic committee to reserve tickets and the salesperson insisted that the person contact their international sales office. So, it seems people either don’t know the state exists at all, or they believe it’s a foreign country south of the border. Ironically, those naive impressions hold some truth. New Mexico is definitely lost in some kind of time warp. Its history dates back far before Columbus set foot on the continent. The whole attitude here is often slower than that of the rest of the world. Like our neighbors down in Mexico, we use the word mañana—which doesn’t so much mean “tomorrow” as it does “not today.” When you set foot here, you may find yourself a bit lost within the otherworldli- ness. You mayCOPYRIGHTED be shocked at the way people so readily MATERIAL stop and converse with you, or you may find yourself in a landscape where there isn’t a single landmark from which to negotiate. In the chapters that follow, I give you some signposts to help you discover for your- self the many treasures of this otherworldly state. But first, here are my most cherished New Mexico experiences. 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 6

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THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO 7

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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO

1 The Most Unforgettable New Mexico Experiences • New Mexican Enchiladas: There are Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon— few things more New Mexican than titled Tea: A Mirror of Soul. See p. 176. the enchilada. You can order red or • Albuquerque International Balloon green chile, or “Christmas”—half and Fiesta (& 800/733-9918): The half. Sauces are rich, seasoned with world’s largest balloon rally assembles ajo (garlic) and oregano. New Mexi- some 750 colorful balloons and can cuisine isn’t smothered in cheese includes races and contests. High- and sour cream, so the flavors of the lights are the mass ascension at sun- chiles, corn, and meats can really be rise and the special shapes rodeo, in savored. Enchiladas are often served which balloons in all sorts of whimsi- with frijoles (beans), posole (hominy), cal forms, from liquor bottles to and sopaipillas (fried bread). See “New cows, rise into the sky. See p. 87. Mexican Cuisine” in the appendix. • María Benitez Teatro Flamenco • High Road to Taos: This spectacular (Institute for Spanish Arts, Santa Fe; 80-mile route into the mountains & 888/435-2636): Flamenco danc- between Santa Fe and Taos takes you ing originated in Spain, strongly through red painted deserts, villages influenced by the Moors; it is a cul- bordered by apple and peach orchards, tural expression held sacred by Span- and the foothills of 13,000-foot peaks. ish gypsies. Intricate toe and heel You can stop in Cordova, known for clicking, sinuous arm and hand ges- its woodcarvers, or Chimayo, known tures, expressive guitar solos, and for its weavers. At the fabled Santu- cante hondo, or “deep song,” charac- ario de Chimayo, you can rub heal- terize the passionate dance. A native ing dust between your fingers. See New Mexican, María Benitez was p. 190. trained in Spain, to which she returns • Chaco Culture National Historical each year to find dancers and prepare Park (Nageezi; & 505/786-7014): A her show. This world-class dancer combination of a stunning setting and her troupe perform at the Lodge and well-preserved ruins makes the at Santa Fe from late June to early long drive to Chaco Canyon an incred- September. See p. 178. ible adventure into ancestral Puebloan • Taos Pueblo (Veterans Hwy., Taos culture. Many good hikes and bike Pueblo; & 505/758-1028): Possibly rides are in the area, and there’s also a the original home of pueblo-style campground. See p. 266. architecture, this bold structure • Santa Fe Opera (& 800/280-4654 where 200 residents still live much as or 505/986-5900): One of the finest their ancestors did a thousand years opera companies in the United States ago is awe-inspiring. Rooms built of has called Santa Fe home for nearly mud are poetically stacked to echo 50 years. Performances are held dur- the shape of Taos Mountain behind ing the summer months in a hilltop, them. As you explore the pueblo, you open-air amphitheater. The big high- can visit the residents’ studios, light for 2007 is a Santa Fe Opera– munch on bread baked in an horno (a commissioned world premiere by beehive-shaped oven), and wander Chinese-American composer Tan past the fascinating ruins of the old Dun—who won an Oscar for scoring church and cemetery. See p. 224. 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 9

THE BEST NATIVE AMERICAN SIGHTS 9

2 The Best Outdoor Experiences For a list of the best outdoor activities, see Last active 60,000 years ago, the vol- chapter 4. Here are a few specific sights: cano is located about 27 miles east of • Rio Grande Gorge (Taos): A hike Raton. A hike around its rim offers into this dramatic gorge is unforget- views into neighboring Oklahoma table. You’ll first see it as you come and Colorado, and another walk over a rise heading toward Taos. It’s a down into its lush mouth allows you colossal slice in the earth, formed to see the point from which the lava during the late Cretaceous period, spewed. See p. 297. 130 million years ago, and the early • Carlsbad Caverns National Park Tertiary period, about 70 million (Carlsbad; & 800/967-CAVE): Truly years ago. Drive about 35 miles north one of the world’s natural wonders, of Taos, near the village of Cerro, to these caverns swallow visitors into the Wild Rivers Recreation Area. what feels like a journey to the center From the lip of the canyon, you of the earth, where nocturnal crea- descend through millions of years of tures thrive and water drips onto your geologic history and land inhabited body. Stalactites and stalagmites cre- by Native Americans since 16,000 ate another universe of seemingly B.C. If you’re visiting during spring alien life forms. Kids won’t like the and early summer and enjoy an fact that they can’t go climbing on the adrenaline rush, be sure to hook up formations, but they’ll be too fasci- with a professional guide and raft the nated to complain much. See p. 375. Taos Box, a 17-mile stretch of class * White Sands National Monument IV white water. See p. 230. (Alamogordo; & 505/479-6124): • Blue Hole (Santa Rosa): You’ll find Like a bizarre, lost land of white, this this odd natural wonder in Santa place is a dream for kids. They can Rosa, “city of natural lakes.” An 81- roll around in the fine sand or sled foot-deep artesian well, its waters are across it, all the while discovering the cool and completely clear. Often it mysterious creatures that inhabit this appears like a fishbowl, full of scuba truest of deserts. Bring extra clothing, divers. See p. 300. sunglasses, and lots of sunscreen (the • Capulin Volcano National Monu- reflection off the sand can cause some ment (Capulin; & 505/278-2201): pretty nasty sunburns). See p. 349.

3 The Best Native American Sights • Indian Pueblo Cultural Center • Petroglyph National Monument (2401 12th St. NW, Albuquerque; (6001 Unser Blvd. NW, Albuquerque; & 800/766-4405 or 505/843-7270): & 505/899-0205): In the past few Owned and operated as a nonprofit years, this monument has made organization by the 19 pueblos of national news due to conflict over New Mexico, this is a fine place to whether to allow a road through these begin an exploration of Native Ameri- lava flows that were once a hunting can culture. The museum is modeled and gathering area for prehistoric after Pueblo Bonito, a spectacular Native Americans. History in the 9th-century ruin in Chaco Culture making aside, the site has 25,000 pet- National Historic Park, and it contains roglyphs (prehistoric rock carvings) a wealth of art and artifacts. See p. 87. and provides a variety of hiking trails 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO in differing levels of difficulty, right with the history of the Pueblo Revolt on the outskirts of Albuquerque. See of 1680. You’ll see evidence of where p. 91. the Pecos people burned the mission • Bandelier National Monument (Los church before joining in the attack on Alamos; & 505/672-3861, ext 517): Santa Fe. You’ll also see where the These ruins provide a spectacular Spanish conquistadors later compro- peek into the lives of the Anasazi mised, allowing sacred kivas to be Pueblo culture, which flourished in built next to the reconstructed mis- the area between A.D. 1100 and sion. See p. 185. 1550, a period later than the time • Acoma Pueblo (Acoma; & 800/747- when Chaco Canyon was a cultural 0181 or 505/552-6604): This spec- center. (Recent findings suggest that tacular adobe village sits high atop a some Chaco residents ended up at sheer rock mesa. Known as “Sky Bandelier.) Less than 15 miles south City,” it is home to 65 or so inhabi- of Los Alamos, the ruins spread tants who still live without electricity across a peaceful canyon. The most and running water. The sculpted mis- dramatic site is a dwelling and kiva (a sion church and the cemetery seem to room used for religious activities) in a be perched on the very edge of the cave 140 feet above the canyon world. Visitors can hike down floor—reached by a climb up long through a rock cut, once the main pueblo-style ladders. A visitor center entrance to the pueblo. See p. 250. and museum offer self-guided and • Gila Cliff Dwellings (Gila; & 505/ ranger-led tours. See p. 188. 536-9461): Perched in deep caves • Pecos National Historical Park within a narrow canyon outside Silver (Pecos; & 505/757-6414): It’s hard City, these ruins tell the mysterious to rank New Mexico’s many ruins, tale of the Mogollon people who but this one, sprawled on a plain lived in the area from the late 1200s about 25 miles east of Santa Fe, is one through the early 1300s. See p. 337. of the most impressive, resonating

4 The Best Museums • Albuquerque Museum of Art and This museum’s permanent collection History (2000 Mountain Rd. NW, of more than 8,000 works emphasizes Albuquerque; & 505/243-7255): regional art and includes landscapes Take a journey down into the caverns and portraits by all the Taos masters of New Mexico’s past in this museum, as well as contemporary artists, which owns the largest U.S. collec- including R. C. Gorman, Amado tion of Spanish colonial artifacts. Peña, Jr., and Georgia O’Keeffe. The Displays include Don Quixote–style museum also has a collection of pho- helmets, swords, and even horse tographic works by such masters as armor. You can wander through an Ansel Adams, Edward Weston, and 18th-century house compound with Elliot Porter. See p. 152. adobe floors and walls, and see gear • Museum of International Folk Art used by vaqueros, the original cow- (706 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe; & 505/ boys who came to the area in the 476-1200): Santa Fe’s perpetually 16th century. See p. 87. expanding collection of folk art is the • Museum of Fine Arts (107 W. Palace largest in the world, with thousands of Ave., Santa Fe; & 505/476-5072): objects from more than 100 countries. 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 11

THE BEST PLACES TO DISCOVER NEW MEXICO’S HISTORY 11 You’ll find an amazing array of imagi- Southwestern arts and crafts you’ll see, native works, ranging from Hispanic without being overwhelming. It was folk art santos (carved saints) to founded in 1953 by family members Indonesian textiles and African sculp- after the death of Millicent Rogers, a tures. See p. 155. wealthy Taos émigré who, in 1947, • Taos Historic Museums (Taos; began acquiring a magnificent collec- & 505/758-0505): What’s nice about tion of beautiful Native American Taos is that you can see historic homes arts and crafts. Included are jewelry, inside and out. You can wander textiles, pottery, kachina dolls, paint- through Taos Society artist Ernest ings, and basketry from a wide variety Blumenschein’s home, which is a of Southwestern tribes. See p. 221. museum. Built in 1797 and restored • El Camino Real International Her- by Blumenschein in 1919, it repre- itage Center (30 miles south of sents another New Mexico architec- Socorro off I-25, exit 115; & 505/ tural phenomenon: homes that were 854-3600): This new museum traces added on to year after year. Doorways the 1,500-mile historic route between are typically low, and floors rise and Mexico City and the Española Valley fall at the whim of the earth beneath north of Santa Fe. On view are arti- them. The Martinez Hacienda is an facts, art, and devotional items used example of a hacienda stronghold. along the trail, along with state-of- Built without windows facing out- the-art exhibits offering first-person ward, it originally had 20 small rooms, stories of the trail. See p. 307. many with doors opening out to the • The Hubbard Museum of the courtyard. The hacienda has been American West (841 W. US 70, Rui- developed into a living museum fea- doso Downs; & 505/378-4142): turing weavers, blacksmiths, and This museum holds a collection of woodcarvers. See p. 223. more than 10,000 horse-related items, • Millicent Rogers Museum of North- including saddles, sleighs, a horse- ern New Mexico (Millicent Rogers drawn fire engine, a stagecoach, and Rd., Taos; & 505/758-2462): This paintings by artists such as Frederic museum is small enough to offer Remington, Charles Russell, and a glimpse of some of the finest Frank Tenney Johnson. See p. 352.

5 The Best Places to Discover New Mexico’s History • Old Town (Albuquerque): Once the adobe walls, elk antlers, and a blue center of Albuquerque commerce, Old door—you’ll encounter these images Town thrived until the early 1880s, and many more that inspired the when businesses relocated nearer to famous artist’s work. When you view the railroad tracks. It has been a cen- the landscape surrounding her resi- ter of tourism since being rediscov- dence in Abiquiu, you’ll understand ered in the 1930s. Today you can visit why she was so inspired. Be sure to shops, galleries, and restaurants in make a reservation months in advance. Old Town, as well as the Church of See p. 195. San Felipe de Neri, the first structure • Palace of the Governors (North Plaza, built when colonists established Santa Fe; & 505/476-5100): This is Albuquerque in 1706. See p. 88. where, in 1680, the only successful • Georgia O’Keeffe’s Home (Abiquiu; Native American uprising took place. & 505/685-4539): Hand-smoothed Before the uprising, this was the seat 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO of power in the area, and after de Var- Though some might not see how it gas reconquered the American In- could compete with elaborate struc- dians, it resumed that position. Built tures such as Chartres or Notre Dame in 1610 as the original capitol of New de Paris, I see it like a Picasso sculp- Mexico, the palace has been in con- ture: Simple and direct, it has mas- tinuous public use longer than any sive, hand-smoothed adobe walls and other structure in the United States. a rising sense that nearly lifts the heavy Look for remnants of the history this structure off the ground. Maybe that’s building has seen through the years, why such notables as Ansel Adams such as a fireplace and chimney chis- and Georgia O’Keeffe have recorded eled into the adobe wall, and storage its presence in art. See p. 223. pits where the Pueblo Indians kept • El Morro National Monument corn, wheat, barley, and other goods (Ramah; & 505/783-4226): In the during their reign at the palace. After Grants area, this sandstone monolith the reconquest, the pits were used to is known as “Inscription Rock,” dispose of trash. Most notable is the because travelers and explorers docu- front of the palace, where Native mented their journeys for centuries Americans sell jewelry, pottery, and on its smooth face. See p. 256. some weavings under the protection • Cimarron: Nestled against the eastern of the portal. See p. 152. slope of the Sangre de Cristo moun- • St. Francis Cathedral (Cathedral tain range, this town was a “wild and Place at San Francisco St., Santa Fe; woolly” outpost on the Santa Fe Trail & 505/982-5619): Santa Fe’s grand- between the 1850s and 1880s and a est religious structure was built between gathering place for area ranchers, 1869 and 1886 by Archbishop Jean traders, gamblers, gunslingers, and Baptiste Lamy, in the style of the great other characters. See p. 292. cathedrals of Europe. Inside the small • New Mexico Museum of Space adobe, Our Lady of the Rosary History (NM 2001, Alamogordo; chapel is full of the romance of Span- & 877/333-6589 outside NM, or ish Catholicism. The chapel was built 505/437-2840): Tracing the story of in 1807 and is the only portion that space travel, this five-story museum remains from Our Lady of the recalls the accomplishments of Am- Assumption Church, founded along erica’s Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo with Santa Fe in 1610. See p. 153. programs, including New Mexico’s • San Francisco de Asis church (Ran- participation in space exploration, chos de Taos Plaza, Taos; & 505/ from ancient American Indians to 758-2754): To me, this is the most rocketry pioneer Robert Goddard to beautiful church in the world. astronauts. See p. 344.

6 The Best Family Experiences • Albuquerque Aquarium (2601 Cen- and nurse sharks swim around, look- tral Ave. NW; & 505/764-6200): ing ominous. The aquarium is one of Exhibits here focus on sea areas fed by two destinations inside the Albu- the Rio Grande. You’ll pass by many querque Biological Park (the other is large tanks and within an eels’ den; the botanic garden, discussed in the the star attraction is a 285,000-gallon following entry). See p. 93. shark tank, where many species of • Albuquerque Botanic Garden (2601 fish and 15 to 20 sand tiger, brown, Central Ave. NW; & 505/764-6200): 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 13

THE BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES 13 Within a state-of-the-art, 10,000- & 505/471-2261): This living square-foot conservatory, a desert museum re-creates an 18th- and collection features plants from the 19th-century Spanish village. Kids lower Chihuahuan and Sonoran like to visit the working molasses deserts, and a Mediterranean collec- mill, the blacksmith shop, the shear- tion includes many exotic species ing and weaving rooms, and the native to the Mediterranean climates water mills, as well as the resident of Southern California, South Africa, animals. See p. 158. Australia, and the Mediterranean • Santa Fe Children’s Museum (1050 Basin. See p. 93. Old Pecos Trail; & 505/989-8359): • Rio Grande Zoo (903 10th St. SW, Designed for the whole family to Albuquerque; & 505/764-6200): experience, this museum offers inter- More than 1,200 animals of 300 active exhibits and hands-on activi- species live on 60 acres of riverside ties in the arts, humanities, science, bosque among ancient cottonwoods. and technology. Most notable is a 16- Open-moat exhibits with animals in foot climbing wall that kids can scale, naturalized habitats are a treat for zoo- outfitted with helmets and harnesses. goers. Major exhibits include the polar A 1-acre Southwestern horticulture bears, the giraffes, the sea lions (with garden features animals, wetlands, and underwater viewing), the cat walk, the a greenhouse. Special performances bird show, and ape country, with its and hands-on sessions with artists gorilla and orangutans. The zoo has and scientists are regularly scheduled. an especially fine collection of ele- Family Life magazine named this one phants, mountain lions, koalas, rep- of the 10 hottest children’s museums tiles, and native Southwestern species. in the nation. See p. 160. During summer, a children’s petting • New Mexico Mining Museum (100 zoo is open, and the New Mexico N. Iron Ave., Grants; & 800/748- Symphony Orchestra performs. You’ll 2142 or 505/287-4802): This museum find numerous snack bars on the zoo takes you down into a spooky, low-lit grounds, and La Ventana Gift Shop replica mine. You begin in the station carries film and souvenirs. See p. 94. where uranium was loaded and • Sandia Peak Tramway (10 Tramway unloaded, and travel back into the Loop NE, Albuquerque; & 505/856- earth through places defined on wall 7325): The world’s longest tramway plaques with such interesting names ferries passengers about 3 miles from as “track drift” (where ore comes up Albuquerque’s city limits almost to in cars from the mine) and “stope” (a the summit of the 10,678-foot San- room stripped of all ore and off-lim- dia Peak. On the way, you’ll likely see its in an actual mine). See p. 252. birds of prey and rare Rocky Moun- • Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State tain bighorn sheep. In the summer, Park (1504 Miehls Dr., Carlsbad; you may see hang gliders taking off & 505/887-5516): Spread across a from the giant precipice to soar in the vast plateau, this park offers visitors drafts that sweep up the mountain. an hour-long trek through desert Go in the evening to watch the sun lands full of odd plants that survive burn its way out of the western sky; on who-knows-what to zoo exhibits then enjoy the glimmering city lights of hawks, cats, and bears. What’s best on your way down. See p. 90. about this zoo is that the animals • El Rancho de las Golondrinas aren’t just captive, they’re rehabilitat- (334 Los Pinos Rd., Santa Fe; ing. See p. 370. 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO

7 The Best Splurge Hotels • Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort and Zen-Southwestern-style spa and pool Spa (1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana and spacious spa rooms. Most rooms Pueblo; & 800/55-HYATT or 505/ don’t have views but have outdoor 867-1234): Situated on Santa Ana patios, and most are tucked back into Pueblo land, this grand resort has all the quiet compound. See p. 125. a human might need to get away from • Rancho de San Juan (US 285 near the world. Three swimming pools, a Española; & 505/753-6818): Located 16,000-square-foot full-service spa in the enchanting country near Ojo and fitness center, the 18-hole Twin Caliente, this award-winning inn Warriors Championship Golf Course offers complete luxury and the quiet designed by Gary Panks, and views of of the country. Private casitas set the Sandia Mountains make for among the hills are decorated with plenty to do. Meanwhile, spacious antiques and have spectacular views. rooms offer quiet for those who’d See p. 196. rather do nothing. It’s only 25 min- • El Monte Sagrado (317 Kit Carson utes from Albuquerque and 45 min- Rd., Taos; & 800/828-TAOS or 505/ utes from Santa Fe. See p. 80. 758-3502): With guest rooms and • Bishop’s Lodge (Bishop’s Lodge casitas set around a grassy “Sacred Road, Santa Fe; & 505/983-6377): Circle,” this new ecoresort is the More than a century ago, Bishop Jean quintessence of refinement. Every Baptiste Lamy often escaped clerical detail—from the waterfalls and politics by hiking into a valley north chemical-free pool and hot tubs to of town called Little Tesuque. He built the authentic theme decor in the a retreat and chapel that years later rooms—has been created with con- have become the Bishop’s Lodge. All scious care. See p. 203. rooms are spacious and feature hand- • Bear Mountain Lodge (2251 Cot- crafted furniture and local artwork. tage San Rd., Silver City; & 877/ Activities include horseback riding, 620-BEAR or 505/538-2538): This hiking, tennis, and swimming. See lodge, owned and managed by the p. 130. Nature Conservancy, offers a nature- • Inn of the Anasazi (113 Washington lover’s paradise. The inn itself was built Ave., Santa Fe; & 800/688-8100 or in 1928, but the grounds show evi- 505/988-3030): Just steps from the dence of hunter and gatherer visitors Plaza, this elegant hotel offers a taste dating from 6000 B.C. Nature Con- of Anasazi architecture. The interior servancy staff members are on hand utilizes stacked sandstone with touches to guide visitors in their bird-, of Navajo artwork to create a warm wildlife-, and plant-viewing pursuits. ambience. Add to that excellent Rooms are large, with maple floors, amenities and stellar service. See high ceilings, and French windows. p. 124. See p. 334. • La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and • Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort Spa (330 E. Palace Ave., Santa Fe; & Casino (287 Carrizo Canyon Rd., & 800/727-5276 or 505/986- Mescalero; & 800/545-9011 or 505/ 0000): With the feel of a meandering 464-7777): Even though the architec- adobe village but the service of a fine ture of this new hotel on the Mescalero hotel, this has become one of New Apache Indian Reservation is a bit Mexico’s premier resorts. It has a cold, the setting in the pines on the 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 15

THE BEST DINING EXPERIENCES 15 edge of a blue lake compensates, as Victorian hotel, this lodge nestled on do the spacious rooms, the lush bed- a pine-covered hilltop in southern ding, and the many activity options, New Mexico will certainly please. ranging from gambling to fishing to Rooms in the lodge are filled with golf to skiing. See p. 356. antiques, from sideboards and lamps • The Lodge at Cloudcroft (1 Corona to mirrors and steam radiators. A Place, Cloudcroft; & 800/395-6343 high-elevation golf course and a new or 505/682-2566): For those who spa round out the experience. See enjoy the old-world style of a p. 349.

8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels • Wyndham Albuquerque Hotel Pueblo Norte, Taos; & 800/522- (2910 Yale Blvd. SE, Albuquerque; 4462 or 505/758-2275): A mainstay & 800/227-1117 or 505/843-7000): since the 1950s when it was built, Even though this hotel is near the air- this hotel offers clean and efficient port, its proximity to freeways offer rooms set around a grassy courtyard easy access to Albuquerque’s attrac- studded with blue spruce trees. On tions. The spacious rooms have a the north end of town, it’s close to warm Anasazi feel, and the views are most attractions. See p. 207. spectacular. See p. 78. • Step Back Inn (103 W. Aztec Blvd., • El Rey Inn (1862 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Aztec; & 800/334-1255 or 505/334- Fe; & 800/521-1349 or 505/982- 1200): In a modern building, this 1931): If old-style court motels hotel presents a good dose of Victo- awaken the road warrior in you, this rian charm. Rooms are spacious and is your place, Built in the 1930s and quiet, with unique touches such as added onto over the years, the King colorful wallpaper and American provides a variety of types of rooms, antique armoire reproductions. Each all nicely appointed. See p. 131. is named after an early pioneer of the • Santa Fe Motel and Inn (510 Cerril- area. See p. 273. los Rd., Santa Fe; & 800/930-5002 • Inn on the Santa Fe Trail (1133 or 505/982-1039): Rooms at this inn Grand Ave., Las Vegas; & 888/448- are walking distance from the Plaza 8438 or 505/425-6791): This 1920s and provide ambience of the South- court motel set around a grassy court- west—bold colors and some hand- yard has been restored to provide made furniture—with a standard comfortable Southwestern style rooms motel price tag. See p. 129. with nice accents such as hand- • Best Western Kachina Lodge & crafted furniture and light fixtures. Meeting Center (413 Paseo del See p. 290.

9 The Best Dining Experiences • AmbroZia Café & Wine Bar (108 hit the palate, the sensation is pure Rio Grande Blvd. NE, Albuquerque; heaven. See p. 81. & 505/242-6560): This new restau- • The Compound (653 Canyon Rd., rant claims it makes “Food for the Santa Fe; & 505/982-4353): This Gods,” and I have to agree. The offer- reincarnation of one of Santa Fe’s clas- ings might even give Apollo pause, so sic restaurants serves daring contem- complex do they seem, but when they porary American food in a soulful 05_048276 ch01.qxp 12/21/06 6:35 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO setting. Such delicacies as monkfish • Joseph’s Table (108-A South Taos chorizo with watercress or grilled beef Plaza, Taos; & 505/751-4512): Now tenderloin with Italian potatoes will in new digs on Taos Plaza, this font of please sophisticated palates—and creativity serves delightful dishes with probably simpler ones, too. See p. 140. plenty of flair. Try the steak au poivre • Santacafé (231 Washington Ave., over mashed potatoes with a Madeira Santa Fe; & 505/984-1788): This mushroom sauce. Delectable. See restaurant, my all-time favorite, bor- p. 215. rows from an international menu of • The Bluffs (3450 E. Main St., Far- preparations and offerings. The mini- mington; & 505/325-8155): Wooden malist decor accentuates the beautiful partitions topped with glazed glass architecture of the 18th-century shaped like towering bluffs surround Padre Gallegos House. One of their diners at this new restaurant serving best dishes is the Alaskan halibut sandwiches and salads at lunch and with English peas and saffron cous- steaks and seafood at dinner. The cous. See p. 143. turkey bacon club is amazing, as are • Geronimo (724 Canyon Rd. & 505/ any of the angus beef steaks. See 982-1500): Set in the 1756 Borrego p. 274. House on Canyon Road, this restau- • Blackjack’s Grill (1133 Grand Ave., rant offers brilliant flavors in a serene Las Vegas; & 888/448-8438 or 505/ adobe atmosphere. The elk tender- 425-6791): Las Vegas has needed a loin here is Santa Fe’s most prized sophisticated restaurant, and now it entree. Come for lunch and sit on the finally has one. The atmosphere is patio to watch the action on Canyon festive, especially on the patio, where Road. See p. 141. diners sit under elm trees. My favorite 1 • The Shed (113 ⁄2 E. Palace Ave., Santa dish is sautéed beef medallions with Fe; & 505/982-9030): The Shed, a garlic mashed potatoes. See p. 291. Santa Fe luncheon institution since • Double Eagle (2355 Calle de 1953, occupies several rooms in part Guadalupe, Las Cruces; & 505/523- of a rambling hacienda that was 6700): Continental cuisine is alive built in 1692. The sauces here have and well behind the walls of this his- been refined over the years, creating toric hacienda (it’s more than 150 amazing flavors in basic dishes such years old) located in Las Cruces. The as enchiladas, burritos, and stuffed decor is lush and dramatic—chande- sopaipillas. The mocha cake is liers hung with Baccarat crystals— renowned. See p. 148. Its sister and the food is richly traditional. restaurant, La Choza, is just as good, Steaks are the way to go. See p. 324. with a similar menu. See p. 148. • Diane’s Bakery & Cafe (510 N. • De La Tierra (317 Kit Carson Rd., Bullard St., Silver City; & 505/538- Taos; & 800/828-TAOS or 505/758- 8722): Diane Barrett, who was once 3502): Located at the ecoresort El a pastry chef at La Traviata and Eldo- Monte Sagrado, this elegant restaurant rado in Santa Fe, has brought refined serves imaginative regional American flavors to the little mining town of food and other delights such as wild Silver City. Come here to feast on game. The venison medallions with sumptuous baked goods and sophisti- garlic mashed potatoes is excellent, as cated meals such as rack of lamb. See is the rosemary skewered shrimp with p. 336. corn polenta. An expansive wine list completes the experience. See p. 213.