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Home , Edward Norton, Leather jacket, Luigi Borrelli, Necktie, Rebel Rebel (Homeland), Stoney units

JUNE 2012

CONFIDENCE MAN THE BOLD NEW CONSUMER DRIVING MEN’S

PITTI PLEASE CARVEN TAKES THE SPOTLIGHT REBEL REBEL OF BIKER CHIC

THE UNRIVALED RUN OF EDWARD NORTON FROM KILLER ALTAR BOY TO SKETCHY SPOOK, THE ACTOR!ACTIVIST REVISITS HIS DARK SIDE IN THE LEGACY. BY MATTHEW LYNCH

FIRST LOOK +SPRING ’13

DISPLAY UNTIL SEPT. 24, 2012 $6.00 ’S COOL AGAIN AN INSIDER GUIDE TO THE BRITISH STYLE CAPITAL

0:&RYHULQGG 30 www.brunellocucinelli.it www.brunellocucinelli.it CONTENTS JUNE 2012

Adam et Ropé Biotop. Page 30

FEATURES 38 SEPARATE WAYS A remix of the summer means ultralight fabrics and a fresh approach to styling for 2013. Photos by Eric Ray Davidson Styled by Alex Badia 44 THE NORTON LEGACY He’s in two movies this summer, but what excites Edward Norton more is the role of civic crusader. By Matthew Lynch 50 REBEL REBEL With the return of the , chic urban warriors are hell-bent for . Photos by David Roemer Styled by Alex Badia

Edward Norton photographed in London’s linen suit by Lorenzo Agius. and DKNY’s . Styled by Alex Badia. tie; Linda Farrow Luxe . Canali’s suit and Louis

Vuitton’s cotton shirt. DKNY tie. YUKIE MIYAZAKI BY PHOTO STORE DAVIDSON; ERIC RAY BY PHOTO SUIT FASHION

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CONTENTS JUNE 2012

TALKING POINTS Actor Patrick Fryer at the Nightjar, his favorite bar in London. Page 22 11 MR. MAJESTIC Without sartorial high jinks, Prince Philip adds a touch of glamour while leaving the spotlight to the Queen. By Samantha Conti 12 DEVIL, DETAILS designer Angelo Galasso unveils a wickedly expensive men’s store at New York’s Plaza hotel. By Matthew Lynch 12 OLYMPIC METTLE Our fashion judges grade the style of three Summer Games contenders.

14 FLY BUYS take o! as signs on for the sequel to Gun. By Joelle Diderich

DEPARTMENTS

16 THE CONFIDENCE MAN A style-conscious new consumer heats up the men’s fashion industry. By David Lipke 20 ON THE GRID From shopping in Tokyo to golfing in New , the best of summer. By David Lipke 22 DESTINATIONS: LONDON The best places to eat, drink, shop and hang out in the British capital. By Nina Jones 26 MAN IN THE NEWS Je! Rudes sets out to make J Brand a full-fledged fashion force. By David Lipke 30 RETAIL SPACE Renaissance man Takashi Kumagai brings Saturdays Surf to Tokyo. By Amanda Kaiser 32 MADE IN THE USA Woolrich, an all-American brand since 1830, prepares to go global. By Jean E. Palmieri

Louboutin 36 BY DESIGN for men. Pitti Uomo guest designer Guillaume Page 14 Carven designer Henry’s fresh take on the Carven man. Guillaume Henry. By Katya Foreman Page 36 58 PERSONAL STYLE New York Knicks starting center Tyson Chandler gets a jump start on fashion. By Matthew Lynch PATRICK FRYER PHOTO BY KUBA DABROWSKI; GUILLAUME HENRY PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE

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EDITOR IN CHIEF VICE PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER Edward Nardoza Marc Berger

EDITOR ADVERTISING James Fallon EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Brett Mitchell ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder CONSULTING EDITOR John Birmingham EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel L. Fertel EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha LUXURY DIRECTOR, FINE JEWELRY & WATCHES, Ellie Ghadimi MANAGING EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia WEST COAST DIRECTOR, 323!965!7283, Jill Biren SENIOR EDITOR David Lipke WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER, 323!965!7285, Courtney Hazirjian CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Donna Agajanian INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, 011!3902!6558!4225, Guglielmo Bava ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR Luis Campuzano ACCOUNT MANAGER, , 011!3902!6558!4224, Olga Kouznetsova PHOTO EDITOR Carrie Provenzano ACCOUNT MANAGER, , 011!3902!6558!4236, Giulia Squeri ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Lexie Moreland ACCOUNT MANAGER, , 011!331!4451!1290, Odile Eda-Pierre ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene FASHION ASSISTANT Mercedes PSL Bass MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES FASHION INTERNS Quentin Rucker, Ayanna Thomas, Derewko Torres EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING, Janet Menaker CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR, Emily Cortez WWD.COM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING, Kristen M. Wildman ASSOCIATE ONLINE EDITOR Krystina Gustafson PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR, Marjorie Keating ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Roberta Correia DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS, Danielle McMurray DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Pincus BUREAUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR, Fabio Salles MILAN Luisa Zargani (Bureau Chief), Alessandra Turra, COPY DIRECTOR, Julia Donahue Cynthia Martens (Business News Reporter) SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jennifer Borck LONDON Samantha Conti (Bureau Chief), Nina Jones, SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER, Brianna Lipovsky Catherine Tipple (Editorial Assistant) MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Kristin Mooney PARIS Jennifer Weil (Beauty), Laurent Folcher, MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING, Jamie Rudolph Katya Foreman, Joelle Diderich, Anne-Aymone ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Alissa Gross Gheerbrant (Editorial Assistant) ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Jessica Casey TOKYO Amanda Kaiser (Asian Editor) COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING, Danielle K. Stewart NEW YORK Tara Bonet-Black, Taylor Harris (Editorial Assistants) MARKETING COORDINATOR, Leigh Alcott LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina (Bureau Chief), Khanh T.L. Tran, Rachel Brown PRODUCTION VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING, Gena Kelly GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Chris Wengiel LAYOUT/COPYDESK PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, Kevin Hurley COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER, Jill Breiner COPY EDITORS Ben Cake, Matthew W. Evans, Adam Perkowsky SENIOR B2B DISTRIBUTION MANAGER, Michael Wagner

ART DEPARTMENT CONSUMER MARKETING GROUP ART DIRECTOR Andrew Flynn SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Ellen Dealy ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS Sharon Ber, Amy Lomacchio PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR, John Cross JUNIOR DESIGNER Jena Buckwell MARKETING DIRECTOR, Peggy Pyle SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER, Suzanne Berardi STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER, Alison Christie Erin Fitzgerald (Mgr), John Aquino, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone BUSINESS GROUP FINANCE DIRECTOR, Devon Beemer CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BUSINESS ANALYST, Tanya Davis Lorenzo Agius, Dan Borris, Greg Broom, Jeffrey Cohen, Marleen Daniels, Andrea Delbo, OFFICE MANAGER, Gomatie Sanichar Kai Z. Feng, Robbie Fimmano, Daniel Garriga, Blair Getz Mezibov, Trevor Good, DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS, Ron Wilson Matti Hillig, Andrew Ingalls, Dean Isidro, Tim Jenkins, Yukie Kasuga, Stefanie Keenan, Sakis Lalas, Dominique Maître, Rodolfo Martinez, Sandro Michahelles, Johnny Miller, FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA Michael Nagle, Jose Picayo, Eric Ray Davidson, David Roemer, Matthew Sandager, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, Will Schenck VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS, Suzanne Reinhardt Eli Schmidt, Bjîrn Terring, Matthias Vriens-McGrath, Jim Wright VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL, Dan Shar VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS, Melissa Brecher CREATIVE DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT, Michael Atmore Nancy Butkus

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR PRESIDENT & CEO Peter W. Kaplan Gina Sanders

PUBLISHED BY FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA MENSWEAR IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2011 Fairchild Fashion Media. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. A division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., VOLUME 2, NO. 3. Menswear is published 4 a year by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Conde Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. NEWS: 212!630!3500 | FASHION: 212!630!4221 | ADVERTISING: 212!630!4600 | SINGLE COPY Send all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Menswear, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Edit – 212-630-3500, Advertising – 212-630-4600, Single Copy Sales – 800-289-0273. For SALES: 800!289!0273 | PRODUCTION: 212!630!4469 | LONDON: 25 MADDOX STREET, WIS permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact The YGS Group at 800-501-9571. Visit us online at 2QNL, 442!074!937!383 | LOS ANGELES: 6300 WILSHIRE BLVD., SUITE 720, 90048, 323!965! www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. MENSWEAR IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, 3400 | MILAN: CORSO ITALIA, 13, 20129, 011!39!02!6558!4201 | PARIS: 9 RUE ROYALE, 75008, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY 331!4!451!1300 WASHINGTON: 1050 17TH ST., N.W., SUITE 600, 20036 , 202!496!4975 REQUESTED TO DO SO BY MENSWEAR IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

8 | JUNE 2012 | MENSWEAR

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TALKINGPOINTS INSIDERS | UP!AND!COMERS | TRENDS | HOT SHOTS

Country chic.

The classic camel .

Prince Philip in a formal mode.

The elegant rider. CHIC BY TIM GRAHAM/GETTY GRAHAM/GETTY TIM BY CHIC

of Kent, Haste & Lachter on London’s royal wedding last spring. New Burlington Street, just off Savile Patrick Grant, who owns Norton & Mr. Majestic Row. But even with a tailor on tap, the Sons and the men’s ready-to-wear label prince is well-known for recycling his E. Tautz, calls the prince a “very correct onsort to the Queen of “You do not see clouds of exploding . In August 2008, he famously dresser, not hugely flamboyant, but nor isn’t a role for look-at- from his breast pocket. You will not see asked Kent—who was then working at is he starchy in the way his father-in-law me types but for the sort of man extravagant tie knots in rich patterns.” Norton & Sons—to restyle a favorite pair [King George VI] was. And he has always Cwho knows how to hang back But while his look may be muted, it of baggy herringbone from the looked terrific in .” with poise and . This is something never lacks glamour. “He epitomizes Fifties, making them narrower and more The prince can also work a sporty the dashing Prince Philip, with his the Hollywood style of , contemporary-looking. weekend look with : He prefers ubiquitous two- and neat Cary Grant and Douglas Fairbanks Jr.,” At military events, he often wears cords to , and is never without his white pocket squares, has understood says the royal author Leslie . “He’s the same naval uniform he donned for waterproof gear, tweeds and flat for instinctively for 66 years. For daily wear, soigné, upper-crust and understated— his wedding to Princess Elizabeth in those blustery weekends at Balmoral or the prince, who turns 91 this month—the you know there’s a valet somewhere in 1947. For new military attire, he turns sunny strolls on the grounds of Windsor same month his wife celebrates 60 years the background.” to Kashket & Partners, who outfitted Castle. Life in the Queen’s shadow isn’t CAMEL COAT BY POPPERFOTO/GETTY BY IMAGES; ELEGANT RIDER AND COUNTRY CAMEL COAT on the British throne—favors spread- His longtime tailor is John Kent, Prince William and the page boys at the so bad after all. #SAMANTHA CONTI (mostly white, sometimes with stripes); a solid-colored, striped or subtly patterned tie, and a jacket with a natural shoulder. The crease in his trousers is always pronounced. Bag Man Men’s bags are a rising star for Loewe, which A British Royal Navy officer in his recorded a testosterone-charged 40 percent youth, the prince, also known as the growth rate for the category in 2011. But the Madrid-based brand’s superstar is the Duke of Edinburgh, learned early about Amazona, an elegant 24-hour bag that has emerged as an iconic piece for fashion discipline, restraint and how to wear a connoisseurs—a sort of Birkin for men. uniform to best effect. “One does not see Founded in 1846, Loewe has maintained a discreet pro!le even since 1996, when it him indulging in the sartorial high jinks was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. But Spanish cra"smanship and of a Duke of Windsor, and he resolutely French image are a potent combination, and with creative director Stuart Vevers in the avoids fuss and unnecessary detail,” says driver’s seat, Loewe is poised for expansion. Nor does it hurt that in February James Sherwood, author of Savile Row: LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault singled it out as one of the group’s highest- The Master Tailors of British Bespoke. performing smaller brands. —KATYA FOREMAN PRINCE PHILIP FORMAL BY HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGE; ROYALS HULTON PRINCE PHILIP FORMAL BY Loewe’s Amazona

MENSWEAR | JUNE 2012 | 11

0:  7DON3RLQWVLQGG 30  TALKINGPOINTS NO Angelo Galasso Devil, Details

few days before his first New York London and Moscow, he may not seem, at first blush, flagship opened in The Plaza hotel this the most obvious choice for an in-house men’s shop spring, Italian bespoke men’s wear maker at the storied hotel’s tony Edwardian Room. But it A Angelo Galasso was in the hotel’s Palm takes less than an hour with Galasso—as he reads Court sipping an espresso and explaining one of his aloud e-mails from random cab drivers and steals the trademark design innovations: a shirt cuff cutout occasional sidelong appreciation of one of The Plaza’s that frees one’s showpiece from behind any more attractive female guests—to realize that he’s

troublesome fabric. pretty comfortable anywhere. Besides, those design AQUI HACHE/AFP/GETTY VALERY IMAGES; PHELPS BY:JOHN BY BOLT “Spend one million, buy a watch, and then hide flourishes, which include double-button collars and it inside the cuff—it’s not fair,” he says with a smile. intricately stitched back pockets, make a strange “Buy a Ferrari, and [leave] the Ferrari all the sort of sense in the post-Gilded Age environs of The in the garage. It doesn’t make sense.…If a man buys Plaza. As do the store’s prices, with starting at a Ferrari, it’s because [he] wants to come out, find $4,590, jeans ranging from $796 to $9,289, and a woman…and take advantage of the Ferrari. Show at $1,194 to $15,923. to everybody.” “My supplier, they call me knife man because I’m Words like ostentatious and unapologetic lose very careful for the details, so they watch me, you all meaning in the presence of Galasso, a native of know,” he says. “Because I love the details. Details Southern Italy’s Francavilla Fontana whose last are the only things special for men that make a label was a joint venture called Billionaire Italian difference. It’s easy, no?” Couture. Although he also operates stores in Milan, —MATTHEW LYNCH

With all eyes turning to London for the Summer Games, three of the most promising Olympic contenders took a break from training to hit the red carpet. Here, Menswear’s Olympic Mettle fashion judges assess the athletes’ recent appearances in mufti. GALASSO PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; NADALBY EDUARDO PARRA/WIREIMAGE; PARRA/WIREIMAGE; EDUARDO GALASSO THOMAS IANNACCONE; NADALBY PHOTO BY

The feathery Farrah Fawcett do might Hairstyle balances his frame his face nicely, but those boogie The clip-on is too promlike, big ears and underscores nights were over 30 years ago. especially with a traditional three- piece tuxedo. Next time, ask a his boy-next-door look— bong notwithstanding. Sharp shoulder complements friend to tie a real one. the athletic torso.

Jacket is perfectly Crisp white shirt has "tted and obviously Swimmers have a just the right collar made-to-measure— perfect build for tailored proportion. a smart choice when clothing, but this o!- you’re 6-feet, 5-inches. the-rack suit does Wide peak nothing to accentuate suggests a playful his superhero physique. side we don’t see Vest works with the on the court. proportion of the suit and A higher collar helps break up the long torso. stance would frame his face Go for a slightly larger Diamond-encrusted white better and make size. You’re not known watch looks a bit hip-hop. him look less for your hourglass Get a Rolex Submariner. like a turtle. shape. Pull up your pants. They sit too low on the , a look more The suit is very boxy RAFAEL Great skinny jean with appropriate for jeans. and should be altered NADAL: the perfect clean wash. at the waist to enhance A- The stint as a sexy Way too much his V shape. model for Jeans USAIN fabric at the ankle. MICHAEL clearly paid o!. PHELPS: BOLT: A great silhouette for B+ him—it elongates the C+ We understand why legs and makes the he’s not wearing his out"t a little sleeker. running shoes, but a classic patent leather would make more of an impact. -toe lace-ups work perfectly with the out"t, especially given his | JUNE 2012 | 12 MENSWEAR #ipperlike feet.

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Studded -ons Gun—and the matter seemed to by Christian Louboutin. be settled. Still, Thierry Prissert, FLY BUYS Breitling’s U.S. president, managed ORD THAT TOM CRUISE will a parting shot. return as Maverick in the “They are movie pilots,” he said long-awaited sequel to the at the time, referring to Cruise and 1986 hit movie has his cohorts. “We are in contact with Wprovoked a dog!ght among watchmakers. real pilots.” It started in January, when the Swiss A slew of other watchmakers luxury brand IWC declared 2012 “the have since entered the fray. The year of the pilot’s watch”—and an ideal Swiss brand Zenith recently time to push its Top Gun collection. The unveiled three new watches in company’s licensing deal with the U.S. its Pilot collection, including the Navy Fighter Tactics Instructor Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Program (popularly known as TOPGUN) ($10,300), which makes a bold dates back to 2005, but with a Top Gun 2 statement with its 57.5-millimeter on the horizon, IWC expected the category titanium case. “The idea was to Onward From IWC’s Top Gun collection. to heat up. say, ‘Okay, a lot of brands do pilot And so it did. Breitling, another Swiss watches, but nobody can claim the Christian brand, shot back with a press release rights to it as loud and clear as we can,’” its part, is promoting three new limited- CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN has big plans touting its limited-edition Chronomat 44 says Zenith chief executive o"cer Jean- edition watches based on aeronautical for his men’s collection, with a men’s- ($10,135), which bears the o"cial seal of Frédéric Dufour. instruments—including the BR01 Turn only store opening this summer the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School. “We own the rights to the word Pilot,” Coordinator ($6,000)—with the tagline: in New York’s West Village, to be “The real Top Gun watch carries the he adds, noting the company has been “From the cockpit to the wrist.” followed by boutiques in Los Angeles, Breitling signature,” the release claimed. producing Pilot watches for more than Not to be outdone, Bremont, a Miami and London. Not bad when Although Breitling, which sponsors a century. 10-year-old British brand that makes you consider that he fell into the a team of jet pilots, has solid aviation Hamilton, founded in the U.S. but now exclusive watches for elite military men’s business by accident. credentials, IWC quickly asserted part of the Swatch Group, produced a squadrons, recently introduced the World The celebrated French its exclusive right to use the Top Gun watch worn by the !rst American airmail Timer ALT1-WT ($5,695), a chronometer designer, best known for his sexy red- trademark for watches. By April, on the pilots in 1919. To underscore this heritage, geared toward civilians. Especially those soled stilettos, says it all started with eve of the Baselworld watch fair, the rivals the brand bills its new Khaki X-Patrol who feel what Maverick famously called— an ill-fitting pair of loafers. had reached an agreement—Breitling timepiece ($1,695), as a “portable cockpit and will no doubt call again—“the need Not long after he launched his would make no further mention of Top for navigating lifestyles.” Bell & Ross, for for speed.” —JOELLE DIDERICH business 20 years ago, as Louboutin tells it, a proper French woman came to him looking for a pair. She admitted, however, that her feet were so large Tailor that she had a hard time finding shoes Kathryn that fit. “How big?” Louboutin asked. Sargent. Savile Row’s First Lady The wrong question. “You don’t ask a woman her age, and you don’t ask athryn Sargent is a self-professed “tailoring geek.” She’s also a a woman her shoe size,” the client pioneer. replied indignantly. Losing patience, The tailor has the distinction of having served as the first female he suggested that she write her size head cutter of a Savile Row firm—the vaunted Gieves & Hawkes, on a piece of paper. It was 13 1/2. whereK she worked for 15 years, climbing the ladder to the top cutter Louboutin didn’t even have lasts that position in its bespoke department. “It’s quite a talking point,” she says large, but he set out to create shoes with a laugh. “But I really loved the job. Years ago, I wouldn’t have had the for her anyway. When they were opportunity—it was such an old-boy network.” finished, he presented them proudly In January, Sargent left Gieves & Hawkes to launch her own business, and waited for her reaction. “She tried Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring. But while continuing to break new it on and said she’d never put on a shoe ground, she maintains a strong sense of tradition: Her firm is located on that was too big before,” he says. “She Sackville Street, near Savile Row, where she shares the premises of Meyer thanked me and walked out. I was & Mortimer, a bespoke company whose former clients included the 18th- ready to kill her.” century British dandy Beau Brummel. But a friend heard the story and Sargent notes that women have a long history of working on Savile Row, bought the loafers as a present for her though they remained behind the scenes, not in a “client-facing role.” When husband. They were a perfect fit—and she became a head cutter, she says, “most people were really welcoming,” Louboutin was in the men’s business. but she did meet some resistance. A couple of customers refused to work Many years later, his footwear with her, and she recalls an elderly woman who bluntly said, “A girl should has become a must-have for men. not be doing this.” Sargent’s reaction:“I knew I had to do a bloody good job, Last year, the designer opened his since there were people who were waiting to see if I could cut the mustard.” first dedicated men’s boutique in Sargent views the bespoke process as a “creative collaboration” between herself and her client, which means working closely Paris in the Galerie Véro-Dodat. with customers to resolve fit and lifestyle issues. “It’s about getting to know people individually and tailoring to need,” she says. At a pop-up shop at Selfridges in Although based in London, she travels to New York and Chicago three times a year to measure and fit both men and women. London this spring, men’s shoes The client chooses from thousands of British fabrics (“I’m biased—I think we make the best in the world”), Sargent outsold women’s. As Louboutin says, personally hand-cuts each pattern, there are two to three fittings, and the garment is delivered within 12 weeks. Prices start at remembering one of his least favorite 3,200 pounds, or $4,071 at current exchange. clients,“In every cloud, there is a As her business grows, Sargent hopes to add custom shirts and to expand her women’s offerings. “I would love to provide silver side.” —JEAN E. PALMIERI tailoring heritage to more people,” she says, adding, “I feel quite liberated.” —J.E.P SARGENT PHOTO BY IAN MACAULAY SARGENT PHOTO BY

14 | JUNE 2012 | MENSWEAR

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CONSUMER FOCUS by DAVID LIPKE

The Confidence Man The global economy, e-commerce and evolving cultural norms have helped create a newly assured fashion customer. Brands from Billy Reid to are out to capitalize on the shift.

ed was the of spring “We haven’t seen this kind of sea- A number of prominent when it came to men’s pants. change since the Seventies,” says designer men’s brands have been The shade was everywhere in Joseph Abboud, president and creative riding the wave of healthy demand R stores: in lightweight , director of HMX Group. “Back then, for clothing and furnishings. In April, skinny rolled-up chino and slim cargo- there was this energy and passion from Ermenegildo reported record pocket permutations. Macy’s sold the young generation to differently results for 2011, with sales up 17 percent crimson khakis, and scarlet sold from the establishment. But that passion to $1.47 billion. For the first quarter of like hotcakes—and not just in New York, seemed to be lost for about 20 years, after this year, reported double- Trunk Club targets men with but in all the company’s stores. What was the trend for corporate casual dressing digit gains in earnings and sales. convenient, prepackaged fashion once the isolated province of aggressively took hold. Today, there’s a new Millennial Ironically, while relaxed codes of assortments for varying tastes. preppie Nantucket vacationers was now a generation that has this dress in the workplace mainstream men’s wear trend. hunger and desire to get allowed for some office can shop for slim-fit suits and camouflage- Hardly a subtle color, the flowering of dressed up again.” LOOKING SHARP drones to get lazy and sloppy print on Park & Bond or The the red pants trend is a revealing barometer Abboud sees the current Total Men’s Tailored in their wardrobes, for many Corner as easily as any New Yorker. of a broad evolution occurring in the men’s enthusiasm for slim suits Clothing Sales* others it sparked newfound Apart from scoping out the best prices style landscape. A new sophistication, and smart ties and natty creativity and discernment and selection online, the Web is an ideal driven by the explosion of online accessories as a “typical $4.36 billion in their personal style, as place for guys to find practical advice and i n f o r m a t i o n boomerang effect” from the choices opened up as they instruction on all manner of trends and on trends and droopy chinos and ill-fitting +9 % stood in front of their closets wardrobe conundrums. Magazine sites, TIE IT UP brands, as well polo shirts that peaked in each morning. Men today blogs, YouTube videos, editorial content Total U.S. Men’s as a new savvy, the dot-com environs of the live in a society where there on e-commerce sites and social networks Sales* powered by Nineties and 2000s. “That was a pretty are fewer hard and fast sartorial rules—or are all part of the mix. Apps for mobile the reach and nebulous time for fashion,” he notes. cultural inhibitions limiting masculine devices, like a just-launched outfit finder $701.2 million diversity offered “The old cliché used to be that the guy in displays of fashion interests—which from Mr. Porter, called Suit Yourself, add by e-commerce, the went into the bar full means they have both more freedom and a valuable dimension to the online hunt. +23.1 % has created a of suits and got the girl. Now, the guy in a more responsibility for how they dress. “You’re not just going into a store and wide swath of suit goes into a bar full of leather jackets “We’re heading back into a moment having some clueless old dude in a suit men embracing and gets the girl.” where men are more interested again in store or a scary fashion guy in a boutique fashion with a fresh confidence. At the Men are getting the message. Tailored style, accessories and grooming,” observes telling you what to buy,” says Band of same time, economic issues have placed clothing sales advanced 9 percent to $4.36 designer Tommy Hilfiger. “There is a sense Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg. a premium on looking in the billion for the 12 months ended in March, that men are less afraid to wear fashion “You can go online ahead of time and workplace, while social and cultural forces and neckwear sales jumped a remarkable today. They are more intrigued with new learn about brands and which ones have given guys a new permission to take 23 percent to $701.2 million in the period, styles, new , new fabrics, grooming align with your tastes, and get familiar charge of their appearances. according to NPD Group figures. products and accessories. They know with it before you pull the trigger. You’re That confluence of factors has turned Taking heed of that trend, Saks Fifth exactly what styles they able to garner all this men’s into a thriving retail category and Avenue this month staged an extensive want and how to articulate SHARE OF CLOSET information and see driven any number of recent trends, Father’s Day promotion around ties, it in a way that we haven’t the entire landscape of including the resurgence of tailored including major window displays and 15 seen in a long time.” Total U.S. Apparel Sales* options before you shop. clothing and neckwear sales, the ads in . That articulation MEN’S I think guys now equate exceptional growth in men’s accessories “Ties had been dead as a doornail, comes in large part from $56.47 billion clothes with all the other and burgeoning interest in heritage but the category has come alive again in the Internet, which lifestyle purchases they brands. None of this is lost on astute exciting new ways, from knits to seasonal provides near-endless +4.9 % might buy and fetishize, retailers like J. Crew, Bottega Veneta, fabrications in varying widths,” explains sources of style advice like a car or electronics. , Ugg and Christian Louboutin, Tom Ott, senior vice president and and information, as well WOMEN’S It’s no longer a separate which have all recently opened men’s- general merchandise manager for men’s as a surfeit of sites to shop. $111.51 billion category that’s only for only stores to cater to a new generation at Saks. “Guys are wearing them because Geography no longer girls. There’s a comfort of unapologetically fashion-conscious, they want to, not because they have to. limits anyone’s sartorial +4.2 % level with it.” fashion-literate males. It’s cool and hip to wear a tie again.” boundaries. Nebraskans Continued on page 18 *12 months ended in March SOURCE: NPD GROUP

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PITTI UOMO | BOOTH B7-9

BREAD & BUTTER | URBAN SUPERIOR MEN | HANGAR 6 | STAND 44.2

PROJECT LAS VEGAS | TOWN SQUARE

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | VICTORINOX.COM Continued from page 16 leverage against the global designer brands Guys are responding to that and their potent advertising budgets. And familiarity factor. A spring iProspect those indie, hand-crafted fashion labels study found that 45 percent of affluent go hand in hand with the curated lifestyle men online (with household incomes sought by guys who gravitate toward $100,000 or more) spend more than personalized luxuries like small-batch $4,000 a year on e-commerce purchases Tequila and artisanal cheeses. and 13 percent spend in excess of E-commerce has also helped $30,000. What’s more, 84 percent of independent men’s stores survive and men in the study said they shop for thrive by bringing them customers from themselves—a marked shift from the days beyond their hometowns. “These stores when a majority of men’s clothes were have low overhead because they’re in bought by the women in their lives. low-cost cities that would usually be Even men who don’t necessarily left off the fashion map,” notes Michael like researching or shopping online can Williams, founder of A Continuous Lean. leverage the Internet, with services like The fashion-conscious male is not a two-year-old Trunk Club. The company new species. It was studied and dissected sends individually tailored assortments a decade ago as the celebrated, then of clothes from brands like John Varvatos, pilloried, metrosexual. However, this Mr. Porter is mining the growth Jack Spade and Billy Reid to subscribers latest incarnation of the fashion-confident, in tailored clothing; Billy Reid and is on track to do $15 million to $20 modern male is more fully integrated into o!ers indie fashion; million in sales this year. “Guys are willing the masculine landscape—almost obviating Christian Louboutin is opening to spend more and care more about the need to saddle him with a sociological freestanding men’s stores. clothes, once they find an efficient way to,” or cultural designation. Getting a facial says founder Brian Spaly. or a manicure is hardly a noteworthy The variety of information available phenomenon in a world where every online is vast and deep, with blogs that Walgreens is stockpiled with an array of focus on heritage brands (A Continuous L’Oréal Men Expert, Olay Men Solutions, Lean), blogs that focus on progressive Nivea for Men and Dove for Men products. streetwear (Hypebeast), blogs that The term metrosexual now sounds like a focus on (Sartorialist); blogs quaint relic of another, less tolerant time, that focus on preppie lore (Ivy-Style) akin to suffragette or abolitionist. and on and on. That means guys, who The receding taboos are likely related tend to be partial to research and fact- to the increasing visibility and acceptance finding missions, can find specialized of gay culture in all facets of American life. information for their own particular An interest in fashion isn’t as closely tied tastes and preferences—just as they to sexuality any more. And if it is, fewer can find music tailored for them via people care. “Straight guys are coming Pandora and arcane entertainment out as interested in style,” says Andrew tailored to them at YouTube. A handful of Pollard, the former president of Project. magazines no longer enjoy a monopoly on “I think there’s been a democratization information about men’s style. of sexuality. Whereas before, if you were “The Internet is so democratic. interested in brands and fashion, you were LOUBOUTIN PHOTO BY SUSIE REA Before, all you had was television, considered gay, that isn’t the case now.” The luxury arena has been a particular which plans to double its men business in newspapers and some magazines. There The effect of the global economy beneficiary of the modern male’s 2012 to over $400 million and to reach $1 is so much more information and sources has played another role, with American spending behavior. Men now account billion within three to five years. This year of inspiration available at everyone’s norms influenced by Europe and Asia— for 40 percent of the total global luxury in North America, fully half of Coach’s fingertips, which gives people much more places where masculine interests in market, according to Bain & Co., and the planned 40 new stores will be dedicated of an opportunity to be an individual,” style are much more mainstream. And sector is growing at 14 percent a year, to men’s. And in China, where men are says Marcus Wainwright, co-founder and heightened competition for jobs, from compared to just 8 percent for women’s especially avid fashion consumers, almost co-creative director of Rag & Bone. both the shaky economy and overseas luxury sales. all of the 30 new stores planned for this That’s helped lead to the growth of rivals, has given a new impetus for “I think men’s wear has changed, year will be dual gender, due to the size of independent fashion brands, which fill professionals to give their appearances a allowing freedom,” says Kim Jones, men’s the men’s opportunity. directional trade shows like Project and boost in the workplace. style director at Louis Vuitton of the “I think men are genuinely more Capsule. Brands like Billy Reid collection, “Guys have been forced to take charge trend. “Besides shapes and cuts, color and confident and comfortable in their Simon Miller denim, Riviera Club of their style,” observes Durand Guion, fabrications have pushed the boundaries choice and approach, and certainly , Illesteva , Grenson men’s fashion director at Macy’s. “For so of differentiation and increased visibility less embarrassed about how friends shoes, Olasul swim shorts, Miansai long there was a uniform that took all the for trends. Men are enjoying trends—it’s and colleagues will react [to an outfit],” bracelets, Del Toro shoes and Ernest thinking out of it—you either wore a suit almost an East to West movement, Japan says Savile Row tailor Richard James. Alexander tote bags have the chance to be or, if you worked at a dot-com, you wore leading the way.” “It is often said that women dress for discovered online and market their unique khakis and a polo. But all of those old rules Especially ambitious in its efforts to themselves. I think nowadays this is as selling points—giving them at least some and have gone out the window.” court male shoppers has been Coach, true, if not more so, about men.” Q

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ON THE GRID by DAVID LIPKE

The British tea tradition is getting a macho makeover with the introduction of the gentlemen’s a"ernoon The hottest tea around London. The Swan Brasserie’s manly o#erings include !sh-!nger summer spots—from sandwiches, parkin cake and Cashel blue cheese, accompanied by a bottle of Tokyo at takeoff to London Pride beer. Other options include the Dean Street Townhouse, Prism the London Olympics. London, Bea Vo and the Sanctum Soho Hotel, which started the trend with mini- cheeseburgers, Jack Daniels and a cigar. —Tina Baraga

The buzzed-about NoMad Hotel in New York opens its roo"op this month Resembling a sci-! snake, with its intriguing apple-green faceted- facade, Les Docks, Cité with an outdoor restaurant and bar from Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the de la Mode et du Design, a new Seine-side cultural complex in eastern Paris, is shaping up to be culinary wizards behind the thrice-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park. the city’s trendiest style magnet. It’s home to the fashion school L’Institut Français de la Mode, The duo also runs the heavily booked restaurant within the NoMad but has the Café Praliné tearoom and Wanderlust, which houses a restaurant, bar and outdoor cinema. upped the ante with a private table inside the roo"op’s majestic cupola. Le Baron will open on the site’s roo"op in August. —Katya Foreman BOREL N. BY PHOTO

Christian Louboutin’s new Louis Flat Tattoo Gus Van Sant interviews sneaker in calfskin and suede is adorned with a photographer Ryan McGinley Japanese-koi embroidery by Jean-Françoise in a new comprehensive Lesage, son of the famed monograph, Ryan McGinley: embroiderer Françoise Lesage. The Whistle for the Wind (240 $1,995 style is available in Christian pages; $55), published in All eyes will be on the Louboutin stores and on June by Rizzoli. The book, London Olympics us.christianlouboutin.com with 150 photographs, beginning July 27, and in July. considers the entirety of Ralph Lauren has McGinley’s career, in which ensured that Team he’s perceptively chronicled USA will look its best. the exploits of hedonistic Athletes will don hipsters. Lauren’s designs for the opening and closing ceremonies, as well as during their downtime Carolina Herrera in the Olympic Village. will launch her The entire collection— new CH Sport including this polo style men’s line this sported by swimmer summer at Ryan Lochte—is the eight CH available in Ralph Lauren stores and on Carolina Herrera Travelers can make the ralphlauren.com. boutiques most of their next layover spanning New at Tokyo’s Haneda Airport York, Dubai, by checking out the just- Saint-Tropez, opened concept store São Paulo and from Isetan. The store stylish points goes beyond the typical in between. The duty-free fare, selling capsule line a mixture of high-end SCHILLER EVAN BY PHOTO encompasses apparel, accessories and 28 pieces—all gi" items from names in bold red, like Molton Brown, Bodco, white and blue Luigi Borrelli and Hiroan. motifs—inspired There’s also a swanky Liberty National golf course has christened a new custom-built catamaran by the recently café, Baccarat-branded this summer that will speed Manhattan linksmen to its Jersey City location launched CH bar and special cosmetics in less than 15 minutes. Members such as Rudy Giuliani, Eli Manning, Matt Sport men’s counter dedicated to jet-lag Lauer and Phil Mickelson enjoy views of the Statue of Liberty and New York fragrance. recovery. —Kelly Wetherille Harbor while playing the recently redesigned championship course.

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0:*ULGLQGG 30  SPRING SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION – UOMO – FLORENCE – WP AREA WWW.WOOLRICH.IT DESTINATIONS by NINA JONES Hey, Young London Four plugged-in Brits offer insider tips on where to eat, drink and hang out in the English capital.

Patrick Fryer GO!TO SHOP: Trunk, 8 Chiltern to see something fresh, as they arrived in town to study Street. Fryer describes this really support a lot of the new, theology at King’s College boutique, which carries a young writers,” says Fryer. “It London in 2006, but since carefully edited selection of has a really nice bar and café graduating, he’s swapped labels such as Kitsuné, Comme that’s a good place to hang out.” ancient texts for a career des Garçons and Beams Plus, as in front of the camera. An “a pretty cool men’s wear shop PREFERRED HANGOUT: Nightjar, alumnus of the U.K.’s National that people don’t really know 129 City Road. “A really cool Youth Theatre, he co-stars about, but they should.” little speakeasy place.” Fryer in two upcoming films: The recommends trying one of this Telemachy, a modern retelling FAVORITE RESTAURANT: Roast, The bijou bar’s Prohibition-era of The Odyssey, which will debut Floral Hall, Stoney Street. Located cocktails: the Boxcar, a mix of later this year, and Yocasta, a in Borough Market, it offers an gin, Cointreau and . drama about a dysfunctional organic take on hearty British British family to be shot this classics such as beef Wellington WHERE TO BRING A DATE: The summer in Spain. Fryer plans and roast Lancashire chicken. Electric Cinema, 191 Portobello to head to Los Angeles for “You’re in the middle of this Road. This chic Edwardian auditions in the fall, though his amazing food market, so it’s cinema, with leather seats and “ever-changing” look seems pretty lively and buzzy,” he says. tables for food and drink, serves better suited to London, where, sophisticated snacks, such as he says, “You’ll see every type of WHERE TO RELAX: The Royal Court spinach and feta tarts, along sartorial style you can imagine… Theatre, 50-51 Sloane Square. with wines ranging from Pinot and no one bats an eyelid.” “It’s a great place if you want Noir to Prosecco.

Marcus Patrick Ross Fryer outside at the Pokit. Nightjar.

clothes very differently,” he WHERE TO RELAX: London Fields adds. “Jocks & Nerds [reflects Lido. An outdoor pool located that] guys respond to reference in London Fields park. To points, to facts and figures.” get away, Ross heads to the North Norfolk coast, where GO TO SHOP: Pokit, 132 Wardour his parents live. “It’s not on the Tailored by Pokit. Street. A made-to-measure way to anywhere,” he says. “It’s specialist, Pokit makes its own lovely there.” brand of suits in fabrics such as drill cotton, moleskin and Irish PREFERRED HANGOUT: L’Eau à La Marcus Ross got his linen. Owner Bayode Odewole Bouche, Broadway Market. This start in magazines as fashion grew up in Bristol, where he and deli and café in East London’s editor of i-D in the late Nineties. Ross were classmates. “I think quaint Broadway Market After leaving to become a we were doodling clothes in is where Ross likes to hold freelance stylist and then a biology lessons at 13,” Ross says. meetings. “There’s a real energy photographer, he created his about [the area], which is great.” own men’s magazine, Jocks & FAVORITE RESTAURANT: Nerds, in 2009. “Everything in The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly. WHERE TO BRING A DATE: The Rose it has to have some cultural and Designed in the style of a Garden, Regent’s Park. Ross took historical values,” says Ross, grand European café, it serves his now wife to this central who recently profiled vintage- dishes ranging from salt-beef London oasis on one of their clothing dealers and produced sandwiches to Jersey rock first dates. With 400 different a photo essay on the inner-city oysters. “I’m in love with their varieties of roses, it’s the best denizens of Hackney Wick, kind of service—it’s not stiff, just garden of its kind in the city. East London.“Guys experience good quality service,” says Ross. Continued on page 24

PHOTOS BY KUBA DABROWSKI 22 | JUNE 2012 | MENSWEAR

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DESTINATIONS

Xavier Sheri! and FAVORITE RESTAURANT: A Little of his partner Gemma Ruse What You Fancy, 464 Kingsland established their retail design Road. An under-the-radar business, Studio XAG, in 2009. spot that serves pancakes for Since then, they’ve created a host breakfast and modern British of inventive installations—from cuisine for dinner. “It’s like model butterflies fluttering in a eating at someone’s house who’s glass case in Topshop’s Oxford a really good cook,” says Sheriff. Circus store to a carousel of Christian Louboutin shoes at PREFERRED HANGOUT: The Selfridges. “We’ve come into the Hemingway, 84 Victoria Road. industry at a point where there’s A quirky pub with an loads of craft and interesting encyclopedic array of spirits. aesthetics,” says Sheriff, who studied product design at WHERE TO BRING A DATE: The London’s prestigious Central Corner Room, The Town Hall Hotel, Saint Martins. Although he grew Patriot Square. Sheriff describes up in North London, Sheriff this bistro—a low-key sister to says he feels more at home in the upscale Viajante, which is Hackney, East London, the located in the same hotel—as culturally diverse neighborhood “chilled out, with no tablecloths where he lives now: “There’s and bow ties.” Q always something going on.” Rocket’s Morris Minor. GO!TO SHOP: Rocket barbershop, 401 Hackney Road. A Fifties-style barbershop with a jukebox playing Led Zeppelin and a vintage Morris Minor car installed in one corner, Rocket has what Sheriff looks for in a store—an interesting interior. He also favors the appointment- only boutique LN-CC in Dalston, Hostem in East London and Topman’s General Store boutique in Shoreditch. James Brown at Hostem.

Continued from page 22 GO-TO SHOP: Ally Capellino, 9 There’s also a renowned café Calvert Avenue. “I buy pretty where Australian chef Greg James Brown played much all of my Christmas and Malouf serves delicate Middle soccer professionally in Perugia, birthday presents here,” Brown Eastern–inspired dishes. A great Italy, until an injury forced him says. The boutique is known way to take a break from London to ponder next steps. With a for its stylishly simple leather without traveling very far. father who was “very much part accessories for men and women. of the whole thing,” he PREFERRED HANGOUT: Lounge had always been drawn to edgy FAVORITE RESTAURANT: Rochelle Bohemia, 1E Great Eastern Street. fashion but found that London’s Canteen, Arnold Circus. “It’s like Brown loves the “old-school retail scene had grown stale. a hidden secret—you just buzz feel” of this Czech-inspired bar This prompted him to open on the gate and go in,” he says of filled with Sixties furniture. Hostem, on Redchurch Street this lunch-only restaurant. “The in East London, in 2010. Among menu changes every single day, WHERE TO BRING A DATE: The the store’s labels are Rick depending on what’s fresh.” Lo" Project, Unit 2A Quebec Owens, Mastermind Japan and Wharf, 315 Kingsland Road. Haider Ackermann. Not that WHERE TO RELAX: Petersham This supper club, run by chef Brown wears all those brands. Nurseries, Church Lane, O! Nuno Mendes and his partner “I like a uniform, so my clothes Petersham Road. Richmond, Clarise Faria, invites chefs from Xavier are quite similar,” he says. “A Surrey. around the world to cook for an Sheri" cropped pair of trousers and a This quintessentially English intimate dinner party of 12. The on his little jacket. I tend to wear my garden and nursery is set on experience is “really special,” home turf clothes to death.” the banks of the River Thames. says Brown. in Hackney.

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MAN IN THE NEWS by DAVID LIPKE Out of the Blue Jeff Rudes made J Brand the hottest jeans maker in Los Angeles. Now he’s aiming to transform the company into a full-fledged fashion force.

brand founder and chief execu- not have the right purity if the denim tive officer Jeff Rudes married long- team had anything to do with it,” explains time girlfriend Terre Jacobs on May Rudes. “We’re doing something completely J19 at the Hotel Bel-Air. The follow- different. It has its own point of view.” ing Monday, Rudes was back at work at J The nondenim business could Brand headquarters in an industrial area become 50 percent or more of the total J of downtown Los Angeles to check up on Brand business within three to five years, issues before departing for his honey- Rudes believes. He is aiming to launch a moon in Africa the next day. men’s ready-to-wear business within two That doesn’t surprise Ron Herman, years. “The stores are already asking for who attended the nuptials and was J it,” he notes. Brand’s first customer when it launched Rudes prefers to call the new line in December 2004. “All great companies ready-to-wear, rather than mere have a great personality behind them. sportswear, to connote the fashion And Jeff’s greatest attribute is his direction and high-end aspirations of the passion and focus and dedication to his offerings. “Our aesthetic is clean, timeless, company,” says Herman. “If you engage sophisticated and rich in fabric and look. Jeff in a conversation about cooking—he It’s well made and it’s quality,” he says of loves wine and food—a moment later he’ll the collection—all descriptors that could somehow be talking about his jeans.” be used for J Brand jeans as well. Indeed, Apart from getting hitched, it’s it’s that understated, upscale approach already been a big year for Rudes. to denim that has set J Brand apart from This spring, J Brand launched its first its peers and created one of the premium women’s ready-to-wear collection. The denim boom’s biggest success stories. upscale line of lambskin bomber jackets, He founded J Brand with creative drapy Modal T-shirts and hand-knit director Susie Crippen, who was his bolero , priced from $200 to girlfriend at the time but who exited $1,500, hit 200 stores globally, including the company in 2010. From the start, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, the duo believed there was something Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Harrods missing from the denim landscape: a and Holt Renfrew. The initiative clean jean with a great fit. “There was a cements Rudes’ conviction that J Brand great fashion jean that was minimalist can become a full-fledged fashion player that was missing,” Rudes recalls. “When rather than remain a niche denim maker. we started, everything was mid-washed “Today, we are shifting the perception and destructed with holes and with overt that we’re a jean company to being a identity and back-pocket treatments— fashion company,” says Rudes, 58, during Rock & Republic, for example.” Je! Rudes at Soho an interview at Soho House in New York. Rudes introduced J Brand—which House in New York. “Our roots will always be in denim, but it’s stands for “Jeff,” although Rudes prefers become the platform to build beyond that.” not to emphasize that—at Ron Herman. It’s a sturdy platform. J Brand is While the brand is closely identified with Herman recalls seeing the potential in profession at the time,” Rudes is careful to now distributed in 1,500 U.S. stores and skinny jeans and the “jeggings” look, J Brand from the outset. “If you think of J note with filial devotion. Inspired by the 1,000 international stores, ranging from it actually began with a flare leg before Brand, one of the first things you think of French denim brand MacKeen, a pioneer Selfridges in London to Tsum in Moscow quickly transitioning to its signature is simplicity. It’s comfortable and easy to of the designer-jeans trend of the time, and Isetan in Tokyo. Sources estimate body-hugging fit. “We launched with one understand. I thought the simplicity of the Rudes decided to skip college and start his that J Brand’s 2011 sales were well over style in black and the other in dark blue,” jean was so fantastic,” says Herman, who own jeans line straight out of Westbury $100 million, and Rudes expects to post says Rudes. “We started with 300 pairs of today counts J Brand as his top-selling High School. “I still have an original pair double-digit sales gains this year. jeans, and then 600, and then 3,000, and women’s brand in his four stores, with of MacKeen jeans in my office today. I The women’s ready-to-wear is then it took off.” men’s rapidly growing. “My love for denim bought them for $72 back then, which overseen by designer Donald Oliver, Top retailers around the world—such as as a way of life was mirrored by Jeff. It’s would probably be equivalent to $400 who was previously at Calvin Klein, Gap Atrium in New York, Matches in London, rare that you meet someone and you know today,” says Rudes. “I thought to myself, International and Vera Wang. He has built Biffi in Milan and L’Eclaireur in Paris— you’re both on the same journey.” ‘There’s got to be a way to make these in a separate team of 12 people to work on began carrying the brand. At Intermix, Rudes’ journey started in New York: America for half the price.’” the collection, including design assistants, Rudes remembers selling 80 pairs of Born in Manhattan in 1958, he was raised He called his new line Paris 2000, patternmakers and a sourcing team, who jeans from a single shipment of 120 over in Old Westbury, Long Island. His father which he launched at the age of 18 with work independently of the jeans division. a single weekend. “That sell-through rate was in the textiles business, and his some help from an uncle, who was a “The integrity of the ready-to-wear would is like a grand slam in baseball,” he crows. mother was a homemaker—“a common Continued on page 28 RUDES PORTRAIT BY JENNA GREENE BY PORTRAIT RUDES

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0:  -%UDQGELQGG 30  fgf-industry.com / cpcompany.com A Look from “MEN ARE VERY BRAND LOYAL, J Brand’s upcoming fall AND WE HAVE TO INVITE THEM advertising campaign. TO TRY SOMETHING NEW WHILE THEY’RE BRAND LOYAL TO SOMETHING ELSE.” !JEFF RUDES

Continued from page 26 last,” says Rudes. “When people reacted manufacturer of low-cost in New to the Love Story, I kind of knew that we York. “I started with a small office in his were here to stay.” place. I already knew about patterns and Fit has always been a hallmark for J samples, but there were some things I Brand, but Rudes says there’s no magic had to learn,” says Rudes. “I found a fabric to the company’s silhouettes, sizing and resource and used a factory in Mississippi seaming. “We use the human body. It’s that I was introduced to. At the time, all about having great patternmakers and jeans were made in the South.” having the knowledge of what you want Interestingly, the Paris 2000 concept to do with the fit,” he says. “There are was similar to J Brand’s today, with an certain things you do technically to a jean emphasis on fit and understated details. to make the bum look better and lift and “J Brand is really a remake of what I did shape it. It’s trial and error.” back then,” Rudes explains. “It’s about International markets account for the woman, not the jean. It’s a canvas that 35 percent of overall sales, and Rudes is she can dress herself on, either very chic aiming to boost that figure. Currently, or casual.” J Brand has only a small presence in a Paris 2000 grew into a $30 million few stores in fast-growing markets like business, selling in retailers such as China, India and Brazil. “The tariffs in Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and the now- Brazil make it difficult to sell. They really defunct mall chains Merry-Go-Round discourage imports,” notes Rudes. “But and Contempo Casuals. In 1984, Rudes we know that it has huge potential.” decided to sell the brand to a license The men’s business has been a partner and moved to Los Angeles to similarly tough nut to crack for J Brand, launch a new juniors knits brand called and it currently accounts for less than 15 Area Code. “There was a body-conscious percent of total sales. Rudes would like to trend in the Eighties, and we made Lycra see that figure grow to 30 to 35 percent of knits,” says Rudes, who ran the business sales and believes that in Europe it could the company’s largest single individual more options today, and the choices can be until 1993. He then got back into the become half of total sales. owner. “Sometimes you have to give seductive. I think the important thing for denim business, working with partners J Brand first launched men’s at the to get,” he says of giving up controlling him to do is remain true to the DNA of the Ron Herman and Adriano Goldschmied Project show in New York in July 2006, ownership of the brand he founded. brand and the core values of its mission. I on an advanced denim line called A Gold under the J Brand Denim Co. moniker to Unlike competitors such as Seven think that will give him a greater chance E, which lasted until 1996. give it a more masculine edge. However, For All Mankind, PPD, True Religion and at longevity,” says Herman—who knows After developing ultra-high-end the line has since been rebranded as just J AG Adriano Goldschmied, J Brand has a thing or two about the topic, having denim with A Gold E, Rudes went for Brand and a new designer, Matthew Saam, not opened its own stores or struck any founded his first store 36 years ago. volume, producing private-label jeans took the creative reins in 2010 to give it a licensing deals for additional categories. Asked what defines Rudes’ with factories in Los Angeles and Mexico makeover for the spring 2011 . Rudes has preferred to maintain a firm management style, several members of for clients such as Abercrombie & Fitch “Men are very brand loyal, and we focus on one growth avenue at a time. the J Brand marketing team point to his and Express from 1998 to 2002. He then have to invite them to try something new “It’s down the road,” says Rudes of calm and collected demeanor. “I tell the started work in 2004 on the concept that while they’re brand loyal to something those expansion opportunities. “Our team, unless the building is on fire, no would become J Brand, shipping his first else,” says Rudes of the challenge in ready-to-wear took six years, even panicking. Let’s assess the damage and jeans to Ron Herman at the end of 2004. men’s. “Men’s has to stand on its own though a lot of people wanted us to do it come up with a solution,” Rudes says J Brand’s bread-and-butter look has and not just ride the coattails of women’s. earlier. We were growing a thriving jeans of issues like bad production runs and been the clean, skinny stretch jean for Now it’s thriving and growing, and the business, with double-digit growth every temperamental wash cycles. women in an ever-widening array of potential for men’s is huge.” year. Why take your eye off the ball?” he When he’s off the clock, Rudes enjoys colors. However, the brand has become In 2010, Rudes sold a majority stake reasons. “At some point, we’ll have retail, golf—he’s a 12 handicap—and rides one of elastic enough for its bell-bottom Love of J Brand to Star Avenue Capital LLC, a but it’s not something we need tomorrow. his three Harley-Davidson . Story style to be a hit for the company group that includes Irving Place Capital And when we feel it’s appropriate, we’ll “I’m a biker at heart,” he says. “But for me in 2006 as well. And in 2010 a military- and powerhouse talent agency CAA. look at license categories. But we’re not it’s not about riding fast. I like to ride in the style cargo trouser called the Houlihan More recently, Coach chairman and having any of those discussions now.” mountains, where it’s about the fresh air became a retail sensation. “People ceo Lew Frankfort made an investment It’s that kind of focus that has helped and the scenery. It’s very soothing when thought this company could be a one- in J Brand. However, Rudes retains a keep J Brand on top of the denim heap as you’re spending most of your time grinding hit wonder and that the skinny wouldn’t significant minority stake and remains other start-ups fell by the wayside. “He has in the boiler room of making garments.” Q ADVERTISING PHOTO BY CRAIG McDEAN BY PHOTO ADVERTISING

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0:  -%UDQGLQGG 30  Pitti Uomo Florence | Capsule Paris NYC Las Vegas individualizedshirts.com | 212.581.6968 RETAIL SPACE by AMANDA KAISER Tokyo’s Retail Renaissance Man Takashi Kumagai created a unique concept for Adam et Ropé Biotop and brought Saturdays Surf to Japan. Now he’s ready for the next wave.

anned and tattooed, Takashi Kumagai likes to surf as often as possible—“If there’s a wave The tree house behind and I don’t have to work, every morning,” he Adam et Ropé Biotop. says. But while he lives in Hayama, a beach town Toutside Tokyo, he’s hardly a surf bum. Clad in polka-dot shorts, a seersucker jacket and a sailor’s , Kumagai is in fact a modern-day Renaissance man, a photographer, stylist and garden designer who’s also the creative force behind some of Tokyo’s most innovative retail concepts, including the celebrated Adam et Ropé Biotop revamp. It was his passion for surfing, however, that led to his most recent project: bringing Saturdays Surf NYC to Tokyo, where the chic yet laid-back SoHo specialty store recently opened its first overseas outpost. Kumagai originally struck up a friendship with Saturdays’ cofounder Morgan Collett about two years ago, during a buying trip to New York. “He was kicking a skateboard the first time we met,” recalls Kumagai, who was immediately impressed by Collett’s “supernew concept”—a surf and coffee shop with an urban flair, selling its own brand of men’s wear. Together, they embarked on a surfing trip to Chiba, a coastal area east of Tokyo, and Collett later inked a deal with Adam et Ropé’s parent company, Jun Group. Located in the trendy Daikanyama neighborhood, Saturdays’ new Tokyo store replicates several elements of the SoHo flagship. With a La Marzocco espresso machine perched on the counter, it offers products ranging from retro surfboards to graphic T-shirts. Kumagai acts as an adviser, and his penchant for the botanical is in evidence: The wooden deck at the back of the store is built around a weeping pine. Another tree served as a starting point when Kumagai set out to reinvent an Adam et Ropé flagship, located in the tony Shirokane neighborhood, about three years ago. Inspecting the courtyard out back, he found “nothing—only mosquitoes,” he remembers with a laugh. But there was a large camphor tree, so he enlisted the tree-house artist Takashi Kobayashi to build a cozy, star-shaped hideaway among the leaves. Kumagai then turned to the store itself, placing a homey cafe on the upper level and a mini nursery selling plants on the ground floor. Sandwiched in between is a wide selection of apparel brands, with a large sculpture of pale driftwood providing a visual anchor. The store, renamed Adam et Ropé Biotop, was the first to bring Todd Snyder to Japan. Its other labels include Adam Kimmel, Frank Leder and Kitsuné, as well as Japanese lines such as Digawel, Factotum and The Franklin Tailored—not to mention Kumagai’s own brand, Naissance. “It’s like reincarnation,” Kumagai says of the store’s fresh look. Although Jun declined to

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0:  7RN\RLQGG 30  Right and below: Saturdays Surf’s Tokyo store. Bottom: Adam et Ropé Biotop.

Adam et Ropé buyer Gaku Sakomura and Takashi Kumagai.

disclose sales figures for the Biotop store, Kumagai says it is doing well and attracts Japanese celebrities looking for a low-key shopping experience. Tatsuya Takaku, who oversees U.S. buying for Adam et Ropé and creative direction for Todd Snyder in Japan and Asia, credits Kumagai with the success. “He has tremendous eyes for the new and cool, yet respects the classic,” Takaku says, noting that Biotop’s lifestyle concept has influenced other Tokyo retailers. I

Biotop, for its part, continues to evolve—last year it A G even installed a Saturdays Surf pop-up store. Of course, A the merchandise mix is always in flux. Kumagai senses a SHI KUM A K

decline in the heritage trend that has dominated men’s A wear for several years. He sees a shift toward “relaxing” YS BY T clothes in high-quality fabrics. “I think men’s fashion A TURD people are a little bit tired of heritage,” he says. A KI; S A

Meanwhile, as the new Saturdays Surf NYC store Z begins its Tokyo takeoff, Kumagai keeps his radar tuned A for emerging brands. Case in point: Dosa, a Los Angeles collection of eco-friendly couture designed by South Korea–born Christina Kim. “I’m waiting for them to make men’s clothes,” Kumagai says. “Maybe I’m going to contact them.” Q M ET ROPE PHOTOS BY YUKIE MIY BY PHOTOS ROPE M ET A AD MENSWEAR | JUNE 2012 | 31

0:  7RN\RLQGG 30  MADE IN THE USA by JEAN E. PALMIERI

An American Family Woolrich, once again led by descendants of its founder, is riding high on the fashion demand for all things Americana. Now its sights are set on global expansion.

t a time when heritage is a fashion-industry buzzword, a term associated with Brooklyn hip- Nicholas Brayton, ster artisans and new brands working hard to John Ranelli and cultivate the patina of age, Woolrich has a qual- Joshua Rich in the Aity that makes it stand out: It’s the real thing. mill in Woolrich, Pa. The Woolrich story dates to 1830, when English immigrant John Rich II built his first woolen mill next to a picturesque stream in the rural Pennsylvania town of Little Plum Run. With that as his base, he visited lumber camps in the area and sold woolen yarn, fabric, and coverlets from a mule cart. Over the years, the company he founded with Daniel McCormick would be credited with putting the first fly in men’s trousers, creating the iconic buffalo- check shirt and railroad vest, and weaving blankets to keep Union soldiers warm during the Civil War. Fast-forward to 2012. Earlier this year, Woolrich, which has the longest continuously operated woolen mill in the U.S., named two young offspring of John Rich II to steer the company into the future: Nicholas Brayton, 33, a seventh-generation descendant, serves as president, and his second cousin Joshua W. Rich, 26 and representing the eighth generation, is vice president of international. They share a large conference room in the brick office building directly opposite the mill in Woolrich, Pa., with John Ranelli, an industry veteran from outside the family who serves as chief executive officer. Despite Woolrich’s storied past, its new management team is looking forward rather than back. In fact, the triumvirate is setting out to quadruple sales over the next five years—which would increase the business from $250 million to $1 billion—by expanding and elevating Woolrich product offerings, broadening overseas distribution and opening stores around the world. “The brand is thriving, but the ceiling is very high,” says Brayton. “There’s a real opportunity to take it to the next level.” The expansion is expected to be self-funded, and Ranelli says the company’s shareholders and board of directors are united in their support of the growth plan. “They’re all on the same page,” he says. “All the energy is mustered in the same direction.” With the exception of Ranelli, the board is made up primarily of family members. Eighty percent of the company’s shareholders belong to the Rich and Brayton families. Outsiders hold an equity stake of about 5 percent. “The company has been privately owned since its inception,” says Brayton. “It’s quite a legacy.” Brayton is the first family member to lead the company since his father, Roswell Brayton Jr., died in March 2007. A former director of the domestic licensing business, he now oversees the day-to-day operations of the business with Ranelli. Rich was formerly Woolrich’s business- Continued on page 34 PHOTOS BY MICHAEL NAGLE BY PHOTOS

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0:  :RROULFKLQGG 30  shop at desigual.com

Visit us at ENK Men NewYork MADE IN THE USA

Continued from page 32 “THE BRAND IS THRIVING, BUT THE CEILING IS VERY HIGH. THERE’S A development analyst. He is relocating to Italy to serve as chief liaison with WP Lavori in Corso, the company’s REAL OPPORTUNITY TO TAKE IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL.” !NICHOLAS BRAYTON, PRESIDENT European partner, which is based in Bologna, Italy, and produces the fashion-driven Woolrich John Rich & Bros. and Woolrich Woolen Mills collections. The American company also produces Woolrich Outdoor sportswear and outerwear, which Rich calls “our bread and butter, and the main business in the U.S.” Woolrich’s link with WP Lavori has been long- standing. Beyond the two Woolrich labels, WP Lavori holds the worldwide license for B.D. Baggies and Avon Celli, and various distribution rights for Barbour and Blundstone. It recently added the Baracuta outerwear brand to its stable of licenses. “They came to us probably 30 years ago, because they wanted to distribute our product in Italy,” Brayton recalls. In 1985, WP Lavori started selling Woolrich products in its stores in Europe, and 10 years later Woolrich granted the firm wholesale distribution rights for Italy, a deal that was extended to include all of Europe in 1998. Also in 1998, WP Lavori’s creative director Andrea Cane came up with an idea for a new label, John Rich & Bros. “It’s a more metropolitan and contemporary collection,” Rich says. “It is in keeping with our outdoor aesthetic, but the weight is changed to be more relevant to a cosmopolitan audience.” The brand has also been sold in select stores in the U.S. since 2010. Cane later approached Japanese designer Daiki , well known in the outerwear business, to work on Woolrich has the oldest Woolrich Woolen Mills. That line, now designed by Mark continuously operated McNairy, was introduced in 2006. “These guys have done mill in the U.S.

a wonderful job integrating the Italian licensee and the collection to Northern and Europe, and all American business,” says Ranelli of Rich and Brayton. labels to Eastern Europe, Asia and . “They have the energy, vision and boldness to achieve In its wholesale business, Woolrich plans to add new their dreams for the Woolrich brand on a global basis.” labels and product lines, including wool accessories such Today, Brayton says, sales in the U.S. and Europe are as bags and wallets. “We’d like to have different labels for running about even. About 75 percent of overall sales different end users,” Rich says. “You can expect to see come from wholesale, 15 percent from retail and 10 us expanding our product array in a meaningful way in percent from the mill and U.S. government contracts. about three years.” John Rich & Bros., whose business is primarily in On the retail front, the company has exited the outlet Europe, Japan and Korea, and the Woolrich Outdoor business, a retail category where it had once operated 26 labels, sold in the U.S. and Canada, each account for a stores. “We’re trying to elevate the brand,” Brayton says. little more than 47 percent of the company’s volume. The The focus has shifted to full-price stores. Woolrich upscale Woolrich Woolen Mills collection, distributed in currently operates two in North America—a flagship in the U.S., Asia and the U.K., accounts for 5 percent of sales. Woolrich, Pa., and another in Knowlton, Quebec, Canada. Brayton describes it as a “niche product.” Overseas, there are stores in Stockholm, Sweden; Forte “The challenge is how to introduce these labels to dei Marmi and Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, and Sylt, different regions,” Rich adds. Germany. The company also aims to open stores this Currently, Woolrich products are sold in Canada, summer in London and Seoul. A full-price store is also Japan, Korea, Italy, the , France, scheduled to open next year in New York City. Germany, Austria, Spain, the Netherlands, Belgium, The plan is nothing if not ambitious. It helps that the Portugal, Switzerland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, executive team is confident. Finland and Luxembourg. Although the team is still “This company has a lot of roots in manufacturing, but finalizing its game plan, they see “plenty of room to grow we’re reshaping it as a marketing company,” says Brayton. in Europe.” Rich says. “We’re strong in Southern Europe, Even so, the team has abiding respect for Woolrich’s building in the north and looking at Eastern Europe.” history. “There’s 182 years of manufacturing experience, Ranelli calls the expansion plan “low-hanging fruit. and that remains the backbone of the company,” says Rich. We’re going to build in areas we’re already in and then “That mill is more than just the mill across the street. It Pieces from the company’s archives. move onto other regions such as Eurasia, including represents the values of family and community. The fabric Australia.” Specifically, they hope to bring the Outdoor of that mill runs through every person here.” Q

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0:  :RROULFKLQGG 30  RETURNS 09.24.12 THE NEW CLASS OF MAN

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT M MAGAZINE: MARC BERGER Vice President & Publisher | 212.630.4831 | [email protected] BY DESIGN by KATYA FOREMAN Carven With a Twist As Carven steps into the Pitti spotlight, designer Guillaume Henry revels in a quirky new brand of cool.

ome designers are like rock . Japan is Carven’s strongest stars, the kind who demand cases market for men’s wear, with more than Guillaume Henry of Kabbalah water backstage, 25 points of sale. in Paris. rose petals in the toilet and ice Henry, who already has the Carven Swith no straight edges. For others, a clean man fully formed in his mind, hopes the towel and a cold beer will do. Pitti event will help bring him to life. Take, for example, Guillaume The designer describes him as a guy who Henry, creative director of Carven. could be equally inspired by a superchic Sitting for an interview at the brand’s grandfather or a little boy. “What I love Paris headquarters on Rue Royale, is, people who are not influenced, so I he comes across as a worker bee, love kids and old people, and I’m always unaffected and down-to-earth. Despite looking at what they wear,” says Henry, his rising-star status, he seems more who likes to imagine that the Carven team player than artiste. man and woman grew up together and “ is the brand—that’s the would like to unite the collections in main thing for me,” says Henry, 33, who future ad campaigns. “I like the idea of a was brought in to revitalize Carven family portrait.” in 2009, the year after it was acquired He’s clearly delighted by the response by Société Béranger, a Paris-based to some of the quirky, playful pieces— company co-owned by Henri Sebaoun, such as the “shrunken high-waist now the brand’s chief executive officer, jumpers that looked like kids’ [sweaters] and his cousin Marc Sztykman, its knitted by grandmas”—in the fall managing director. collection. “There’s this nerdy geek thing Henry put his initial focus on going on right now, and I love it,” Henry the women’s collection but soon says. “It’s the revenge of the ordinary reintroduced Carven men’s wear “super people. It’s not about getting the coolest quietly,” by way of Paris showroom leather jacket; even the way you attach presentations. “We could have pushed your collar or roll up your sleeves can it much more, but we didn’t want to,” he make a statement.” says. “I like it when people want to know Like the women’s collection, Carven more about something; I don’t really like men’s wear has “democratic” pricing (a to force people to turn their gaze.” wool and mohair blazer, for example, This month he may have no choice. retails for $695) and oscillates between As guest designer for the 82nd edition of being highly structured and ultralight, Pitti Uomo, the men’s trade show being while experimenting with proportions held in Florence from June 19 to 22, and . What drew the most interest Henry is about to receive a hefty dose of for fall was “anything with a twist,” such exposure. With characteristic cool, he is as a duffle coat with sleeves, shirts taking the pressure in stride. with contrast collars and pants in odd “They are bringing us into the light,” couturelike fabrics. “When we tried to he says. “It’s not a question of being play it safe, it didn’t do great in terms of ready or not. If somebody you really business,” Henry admits. like asked you to go for lunch with For spring 2013—the collection to be them, you would say yes. And I’m just shown at Pitti—he is tackling the suit, going with a huge smile.” reinterpreting it in sportswear fabrics. Although Henry worked on the He has also fleshed out Carven’s footwear men’s scent is also in the works. remains quintessentially Parisian—but design teams of Givenchy and Paule Ka offerings for men and will introduce a Carmen de Tommaso (aka Madame again, there’s a twist. When he moved before joining Carven, he’s a newcomer men’s . Carven) founded the brand as a couture to the city as a young fashion student, to men’s fashion. Yet the fledgling Carven “We don’t want Carven to be the house in 1944 and developed a men’s wear Henry recalls, he was determined not to men’s collection is starting to catch up coolest brand ever; we want Carven to business in the late Seventies through look like a rustic from the countryside. with the brand’s supremely hip women’s be proud of its men’s side, and we want licensing. Henry—who grew up in a tiny Not being a Parisian, however, he was a RE wear. It’s now in 100 points of sale both the men’s and the women’s to be village in Eastern France—recalls his two bit stuck for what to wear. This suggests T worldwide, including two key corners strong enough by themselves,” says older brothers wearing Carven to the another clue to the Carven man: “Our in Paris, at Printemps and Galeries Henry. To that end, the brand hopes office. But his aim has been to provide a guy is like a man who has just arrived in MINIQUE MAI Lafayette, and men’s is sold alongside to open a men’s-only store near its fresh vision for today’s Carven. Paris,” Henry says, “because maybe it is O women’s in two new Carven boutiques in women’s store on Place Saint-Sulpice. A In keeping with its heritage, the brand part of my own story.” Q PHOTO BY D BY PHOTO

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0:%\'HVLJQ&DUYHQLQGG 30  NOTE CHANGE IN DA YS: WEDNESDA Y 19 - Y 21 SEPT . 2012 / AUTUMN WINTER 13-14 The W Par c d’ExpositionsParis-Nor orld’ s Premier F pvusa@pr www .pr emier emier T d V . 1[646]351-1942 abric Show illepinte F evision.com evision.com

rance

™ © Olivier Roller Ultralight fabrics inform a modern take on the summer suit, which is increasingly broken up into separate components. The look for 2013 is cool and contemporary, but not casual—it !ts right in with the return of the . Separate

Photos by ERIC RAY DAVIDSON Styled by ALEX BADIA

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0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  OPPOSITE: Brunello Cucinelli’s wool blazer, Prada’s cotton shirt and Yves Saint Laurent’s cotton pants. Thom Browne tie; Plectrum by Ben Sherman shoes. THIS PAGE: Dolce & Gabbana’s wool blazer, DKNY’s cotton shirt and Dunhill’s wool pants. Calvin Klein Collection tie; Dolce & Gabbana .

Separate Ways

MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  THIS PAGE: ’s wool blazer, Topman’s cotton shirt and Yves Saint Laurent’s wool pants. OPPOSITE: Dior Homme’s wool suit and Dolce & Gabbana’s cotton shirt. Giorgio Armani belt; Dior Homme .

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0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  THIS PAGE: ’s cotton blazer, Calvin Klein Collection’s cotton shirt and Prada’s cotton pants. John Varvatos tie; Brunello Cucinelli belt. OPPOSITE: Calvin Klein Collection’s suit and Caruso’s shirt, both in cotton. S ORRE T O WK ERE : D ERN T IN

ION ASS; FASH B

L S PS E D E C MER T: N STA I ASS ION T; FASH GEMEN A N MA SEE AT AT REYL G EONOR L ING US I TT RIO MA O C NRI GROOMING BY E BY GROOMING

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0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  S ORRE T O WK ERE : D ERN T IN

ION ASS; FASH B

L S PS E D E C MER T: N STA I ASS ION T; FASH GEMEN A N MA SEE AT AT REYL G EONOR L ING US I TT RIO MA O C NRI GROOMING BY E BY GROOMING

MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK6HSDUDWHVLQGG 30  Norton!"

His performances in LEGACY movies ranging from to this summer’s The Bourne Legacy leave an indelible mark. But what excites Edward Norton these The Pershing Square Signature Center sits on a relatively quiet block of 42nd Street in Manhattan, on the westernmost edge of what could still conceivably be considered Square days is his o!screen role Theater District. The ambitious new playhouse is all blond and glass. It is the kind of open space that inspires hushed tones from its inhabitants, which at 5 p.m. on a Wednesday in early May means all of six as a civic crusader. patrons. Seven if you add Edward Norton, distinguished alum of the Signature Theatre company and cham- pion of its gleaming new space, who is sitting at a café table sipping a late-afternoon latte. He’s got a two-day beard, and his black is two undone. He has the faintest of bags under his pale blue eyes, the ones that on-screen almost always seem to be somewhere between sad and Matthew#$ intense but today just look a little tired. It could be that he’s still recovering from his trip to the Met gala, and an ensuing late night, earlier in the Lynch week. “My girlfriend says I have a crush on Anna [Wintour],” he says with a laugh. “It’s possible.” Or it could be that he handed in his years-in-the-works screen adaptation of ’s the week previous and is still in the post-file daze. “Sometimes a deadline actually helps,” he says. Photos by Or maybe it’s just the weight of the building around him. LORENZO AGIUS Norton has spent the last several years leading the capital campaign to raise the nearly $70 million in funds needed for the center. With its three stages, subsidized ticket prices, public café and bookstore, Styled by and mission to keep theatergoing from becoming a “rarefied experience,” the Signature Center is a shiny new Frank Gehry-designed jewel of the New York arts world. It has also been central to Norton’s recent ALEX BADIA midcareer turn as New York City civic crusader.

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0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  Norton

Prada's wool suit and Giorgio Armani's cotton shirt. DKNY tie.

0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  “This,” he says, considering the Center and the , name- space around him, “in the last three checking Joe Papp and and years, represented a much, much more offering up asides like this: “I’ve become thrilling and terrifying and vital and totally sure that all the best things we crushing personal challenge to me than all look back on and go, ‘Wow, that’s a lot of creative work at this point.” amazing,’ felt completely half-baked for Norton is 42 now and almost at the least the first quarter.…There’s a 20 years out from his first big off- certain power in that.” Broadway break, when Signature It’s as if the golden age founder James Houghton cast him in of the Hollywood-backed Louis Vuitton's wool a 1993 production of ’s “indie,” or the cultural suit and Salvatore Fragments. Three years later, he landscape of post-9/11 Ferragamo's cotton earned an Academy Award nomination New York, are chapters in shirt. Ovadia & Sons for his screen debut in Primal Fear, an unfolding novel, and he tie; TheTieBar.com tie bar. a performance that presaged an knows exactly where to slot unrivaled run of late Nineties and early himself as a character. In an Aughts prestige pieces: The People hour and change of talking to vs. Larry Flynt, American History X Norton, one gets the sense that had (another Academy Award nomination), things broken another way, he might , . not have made a bad city-desk editor In the last 10 years, though, his on a daily newspaper, or maybe an work has come in more concentrated assistant professor of urban studies at a bursts as he’s taken the time to pursue progressive liberal-arts college. his interests outside of acting. He got Norton’s family background his pilot’s license. He’s been an activist sheds some light on all of this. His for causes as varied as solar energy and mother taught English; his father the Maasai Wilderness Conservation worked as a U.S. attorney under the Trust. He earned an appointment to Carter administration and was an the President’s Committee on the early champion of the environmental Arts and the Humanities. Before he movement. His maternal grandfather was selling donors on the Signature was , the real estate Center out of his downtown apartment, executive and urban planner (who, in he was a very public advocate for a nice little historical daisy chain, was Manhattan’s instantly beloved High an early patron of Gehry's). Raised in Line park. In fact, Norton has had Columbia, Md., Norton grew up in a only two leading roles since 2008 and, town built by his grandfather. before May’s , hadn’t “Edward as a storyteller is very been on-screen since 2010. much part of who he is,” says Signature Sitting in the café, it's suggested founder Houghton, who has known to him that perhaps such spectacular Norton since his early days in New success so early meant that he’s had York. “And that storytelling takes hold RUCKER

to work harder to stay interested in in a multitude of ways. Sometimes as LL moviemaking, that maybe his more an actor, sometimes it’s as a writer. careful role selection and involvement Sometimes it’s both. And sometimes it’s in New York civic projects is an as an activist and an advocate.” outgrowth of some sort of creative Of course, his narrative confidence

ennui. Norton responds with a long and has also informed some of the more INTERN: QUENTIN DURRE pretty persuasive discourse, excerpted peculiar episodes in Norton’s acting only briefly here, on the economics of career. American History X director FASHION BASS; BASS;

Nineties filmmaking and the import of famously attempted to L realizing your historical moment. have his name taken off the film after “In the last few years, I’ve worked complaining that Norton had too ERCEDES PS ERCEDES

harder on things, on different sorts much of a hand in its final edit. More M of things, than [what] I was working recently, after declining to have Norton really hard on when I was 26, 27,” he back to play the in this summer’s says. “I really was willing to prioritize Avengers film—despite his starring finding things that I thought had role in The Incredible Hulk in 2008— something to say that were particular Marvel Studios took the extraordinary to my generation, what people I step of explicitly stating that it was SACHAJUAN; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASSISTANT: FASHION SACHAJUAN; knew felt like. You only get a certain looking for a more “collaborative” G amount of time to do that. In the late actor. (Norton posted a gracious, high- UNNY USIN

Nineties, there was an opportunity; road response on his Facebook page.) B

there was something going on in the Norton is returning to acting this EY & L film business….You could get American summer in two films from very singular History X made at a studio. You could directors. Last month he figured as get Fight Club made at a studio.” an all-right-angles scoutmaster in Norton’s most impressive the ensemble of ’s personality trait is his ability to craft Moonrise Kingdom. In August, he’ll

these classroom-ready cultural play a nefarious CIA handler in The WOOD FOR ERIN ANDERSON BY G

narratives. He does it again when talking Bourne Legacy, ’s reboot IN M about his work with the Signature of the series, starring . GROO

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0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  Both projects appealed to Louis Vuitton's Norton, he says, in part wool suit and Salvatore Ferragamo's because they are the cotton shirt. product of directors with Ovadia & Sons tie; The crystal-clear sensibilities. TieBar.com tie bar; “I think the very best Lanvin shoes. filmmakers kind of make the same movie over and over again,” Norton says. “Wes’ movies all have young people trying to figure out who they are. They all have people who are hunting to feel that they belong. And he’s always got something in there about the paradox of family: that family makes you feel at home and also ruins your life….Tony Gilroy falls into that camp, too. I’m not sure that I would have at first blush said I’m going to [appear in] this series, but I’ve gotten off my own snobbery…because I had really fun experiences on things like .” By now, Norton’s latte is all but downed and the pre-curtain rush is starting to pick up. The early idlers have multiplied sixfold. The room seems as populated by young actors, playwrights and theater techs as it is by the neighborhood’s rent-stabilized sixty- and seventysomethings, the sort of people who have exceedingly fewer public spaces to read a Sue Grafton book. It feels a bit like the midday rush in a particularly grandiose New York Public Library branch, which perhaps is the point. “I’m not rushing to tackle more stuff like this,” Norton says of his to-do list now that the center is complete. He may direct Motherless Brooklyn, though he’s still a little unsure. Otherwise, he says, he’s ready to not have “so much left-brain-heavy obligation, high- pressure kind of stuff” on his plate. “Part of the reason I thought it was worth anteing up that special effort is that I don’t expect to see that many things like the High Line, or many things like this,” he goes on. “They kind of show and you go, ‘OK, this is one of those moments. It’s worth rolling up the sleeves and doing something.’ ” Norton is shortly off to meet a friend up the street, but before he goes, he recalls taking Barry Diller, who with Diane von Furstenberg eventually underwrote the center’s showpiece staircase, to see the space while it was still under construction. “This place was literally poured concrete and electrical ductwork, and Barry walked around and said, ‘This is forever.’ ” Norton says. “It made me feel good, because if you can get a few things like this done, you know, that’s the way this city keeps remaking itself into the place you want to stay.” At that instant, the café’s PA system happens to be pumping in singing “New York, New York.” If he notices it, Norton doesn’t let on. Q

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0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  Dolce & Gabbana's wool suit and Hickey Freeman's cotton shirt. John Varvatos tie.

MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  (G1RUWRQLQGG 30  Photos by DAVID ROEMER

Styled by ALEX BADIA

The motorcycle jacket emerged as a key piece on the runways in Milan and Paris, signaling a resurgence of the tough guy for this fall. Look for chic urban warriors hitting the streets with a vengeance and hell-bent for leather.

0:  )DVK5HEHOFLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Ralph Lauren Black Label’s leather jacket, Local Celebrity’s wool , Nautica’s cotton shirt and Versace’s cotton denim jeans. Ralph Lauren Black Label’s leather jacket, Hugo’s wool blazer, Marc Jacobs’ cotton shirt and Robert Geller’s leather pants. Yves Saint Laurent’s leather jacket, Paul Smith’s wool sweater and Edun’s cotton denim jeans. Bally’s leather jacket, A.P.C.’s wool sweater, Brioni’s cotton shirt and Acne’s wool pants. Surface to Air’s leather jacket and cotton denim jeans and Yves Saint Laurent’s leather shirt. BLK DNM’s leather jacket, T by Alexander Wang’s wool sweater, 2(x)ist’s cotton T-shirt and Topman’s cotton denim jeans.

0:  )DVK5HEHOFLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Balmain’s nylon jacket, Neil Barrett’s wool turtleneck and J Brand’s cotton denim jeans. Gucci gloves. Hermès’ wool jacket, Z Zegna’s wool suit and Paul & Shark’s cotton shirt. Cire gloves. Burberry Prorsum’s jacket and wool suit.

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0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  RELL RUCKER

LEFT TO RIGHT: Dolce & Gabbana’s wool blazer and vest, Folk’s cotton shirt and Balmain’s cotton denim jeans. Dior Homme sunglasses; Coach gloves. Dior Homme’s leather coat, Neil Barrett’s wool blazer, Individualized Shirts’ cotton shirt and Balmain’s cotton denim jeans. sunglasses; Coach gloves. John Varvatos’ wool coat, Burberry Prorsum’s wool blazer, Emporio Armani’s cotton shirt and Ralph Lauren Black Label’s cotton denim jeans. Yves Saint Laurent sunglasses. GROOMING BY RIAD AZAR AT OPUS BEAUTY USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE; FASHION ASSISTANT: MERCEDES PSL BASS; FASHION INTERN: QUENTIN DUR FASHION PSL MERCEDES BASS; ASSISTANT: USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE; FASHION OPUS BEAUTY RIAD AZAR AT GROOMING BY MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Yves Saint Laurent’s leather vest and wool pants, Dior Homme’s wool coat and Jil Sander’s cotton shirt. Alexander Olch wool tie. Giorgio Armani’s leather jacket, Bally’s leather shirt and Cheap Monday’s cotton demin pants. Louis Vuitton boots. Dries Van Noten’s wool coat, Topman’s cotton shirt and Roberto Cavalli’s wool pants. Tommy Hil!ger boots. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s wool vest, leather coat and shirt and wool pants.

00 | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | MENSWEAR

0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Oxxford’s wool blazer and Ermenegildo Zegna’s cotton shirt. Coach gloves. Paul Smith’s wool blazer and Bottega Veneta’s cotton denim jeans. Tim Coppens’ nylon trenchcoat, Billy Reid’s wool blazer, Jil Sander’s cotton shirt and Lanvin’s wool pants. John Varvatos’ wool coat, Acne’s leather jacket, Sandro’s cotton shirt and Belsta!’s wool pants.

MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Viktor & Rolf’s cotton and poly jacket; Salvatore Ferragamo’s wool sweater and Roberto Cavalli’s wool pants. A.P.C.’s wool jacket, Viktor & Rolf’s wool sweater and Louis Vuitton’s wool pants. Tim Coppens’ wool and leather jacket, Salvatore Ferragamo’s cotton shirt and Burberry Prorsum’s wool pants. Siki Im’s wool coat and Gucci’s cotton shirt. Surface to Air tie. Michael Bastian’s suit and Billy Reid’s sweater, both in wool.

00 | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | MENSWEAR

0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  LEFT TO RIGHT: Alexander McQueen’s leather and wool jacket, Bottega Veneta’s cotton shirt and Ports 1961’s wool pants. A.P.C.’s leather jacket and Valentino’s wool pants. John Galliano’s wool coat. Cire gloves.

MENSWEAR | MONTHXXX 00, 20XX | 00

0:  )DVK5HEHOLQGG 30  PERSONAL STYLE by MATTHEW LYNCH

TYSON CHANDLER FROM UNDER THE BOARDS TO THE FRONT ROW

n only one lockout-shortened season, New York Knicks starting center Tyson Chandler is already one of the most beloved Knicks since the days of Ewing, Starks Iand Oakley. The 29-year-old Chandler came to Madison Square Garden in the off-season by way of free agency and a 2011 NBA championship with the Dallas Mavericks. He has succeeded by playing the sort of body-first, think-later game that New York has sorely lacked in the last decade or so. Sure, Carmelo Anthony’s scoring and Amar’e Stoudemire’s occasional explosions grab headlines, but the Knicks’ recent playoff berth would have been inconceivable without Chandler, who won the league’s Defensive Player of the Year award for his efforts. So it’s a little weird to be sitting with Chandler in a downtown photo studio on a Monday afternoon talking about . “Probably the most dramatic pieces in my wardrobe would be capes,” he says with a smile. “I wouldn’t consider myself Goth, but I love Gothic pieces.” Gritty defensive specialists are not traditionally the -wearing sort, but Chandler draws a clear line between his style on and off court. Away from the game, he’s an art- loving hipster with a beard and a passion for photography and friends—he’s a good pal of Warhol protégé Ari Marcopoulos—to match. Today, Chandler is dressed more conservatively. The Knicks’ season died spectacularly at the hands of the Miami Heat less than a week before, and he’s due for a break in the Bahamas. He’s gotten a jump start on his vacation wear in Nantucket-red linen pants and a light gray button-up (both by Waraire Boswell). With his no-fuss Sperry Top-Siders and black diamond , his modified prep look wouldn’t be out of place in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. His 7-foot, 1-inch frame might be. Chandler was 16 when he hit his full height, and his proportions forced him into a -market look. But his first NBA contract allowed him to break out a bit, and now that he’s landed in one of the world’s fashion capitals, he’s following his whims. In New York, “everything is accessible,” he says. “When I’m in other cities, you can’t just pop up at Rick Owens….You can’t just go down to Tom Ford.” Like Stoudemire and Anthony before him, Chandler has become a regular on the city’s style scene, meriting front row at fashion shows and an invite to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Institute gala. He looks forward to broadening his horizons this summer when he’s in London playing with Team USA in the Olympics. Savile Row calls. Like all mortal Manhattanites, though, he’s got one limitation to deal with. “You’re not running from that,” he says of the closet space in his Upper West Side apartment. “I don’t care who you are…you’re dealing with the same thing. There’s no room for error.” Q PHOTO BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ PHOTO BY

58 | JUNE 2012 | MENSWEAR

0:3HUV6W\OHLQGG 30  VICTORY. BY EQUINOX.

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