15th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology

Rhodes, , 31 August to 2 September 2017

River : natural landscape and historical place- monuments

Saltagıanne, E1*, Gousıs, Ch2 And Siska, F.3 1Archaeologist, EFA , Ethniki Antistasi, 108-110, Preveza 2 Doctor, Plateia Lourou Prevezas 3 Archaeologist, EFA Preveza, Ethniki Antistasi, 108-110, Preveza *corresponding author: e-mail: [email protected] Abstract: The river Acheron was known in antiquity as The region where the river ends are shaped, ie the the river which led the souls to Hades. The region has delta, a protected wetland. undergone many changes over the centuries, changes 1 The importance of it can be shown from the continuous related to the size of the "Gliki Limena" current bay living and the presence of settlements near the river and its Fanar, the exact position of Acherousian lake, which was tributaries from antiquity to nowadays. In ancient times dried after the Second World War, and of course the bed of people even believed that the river Acheron, with the help the river itself in the classical period (eg floating Kastri). of Mercury and Charon, used to lead the souls to Hades. Ηowever the area, where many geological changes without completely changing the geomorphological state from ancient times to nowadays, is described by several writers and travelers from ancient to modern times.

The region of Acheron river is a cultural landscape and a place of natural beauty. A good visibility and proper use will contribute to tourism promotion and development. Τhe development should respect the natural environment and Fig. 1. Acheron River monuments that surround the river, the history and (www.http://www.preveza.gr/) importance of the site. Fig. 2. Acheron River (https://el.wikipedia.org/) This abstract tries to show the natural landscapes and archaeological monuments and areas around the river Acheron and actions appropriate for tourism promotion and development. The abstract consists of two parts: 2. Natural landscape and changes during the centuries 1. landscape, archaeological monuments and sites 2. The region has undergone many changes over the tourist promotion of the area with respect for the centuries, changes related to the size of the “Gluki monuments and landscape. Limena”-current bay Fanar, the exact position of Acherousian lake, which was dried after the Second World Keywords: river Acheron, antiquity, monuments, War, and of course the riverbed in the classical period (eg landscape, management of cultural heritage, tourism floating Kastri). However, despite the geological changes promotion and development the region suffered during the centuries, preserves geomorphological state of antiquity, described by many 1. Introduction writers from antiquity to modern times. The “Gluki Limena” in ancient times had a large The Acheron, one of the largest rivers in (with capacity, as shown by both the stranding 150 Corinthian its tributaries Kokytos and Vouvopotamo), starts its ships before the battle of Sivota (433 BC), and the journey from the south of , crosses the Prefecture Octavian 350 ships before the battle of (31 BC Aktion ), as of and the Prefecture of Preveza, creating their well as ships of Gouiskardou Roverdou in the 11th century natural boundary at a distance of over 60 km . and ends at AD. The description of “Gliki Limena” in antiquity has the bay of Ammoudia where it flows into. The distance similarities to the bay of Ammoudia (Fanari), and from the source to the ending is over 60 km. differences such as the depth of the press. The bay should have been much deeper, while over the centuries the valley has been extended towards the sea because of sediment

transported by Acheron for thousands of years. Silting the 1 Gliki Limena in means Sweet Port

CEST2017_00438 rivers and changing the bed of the lake Acheron turned nest above the river, (https://en.wikipedia.org) into a marsh and finally dried in the 50's. https://en.wikipedia.org The river Acheron in Antiquity was navigable to the 4.Archaeological landscape-monuments - settlements place that is called Kasti on the inside of Acherousian Lake and its mouth was in its current location in Ammoudia, in a former period was about three kilometers southerly, in 4.a. Acheron River-Lake Acherousia: summary Kerentza where the river current had opened up rift in the report by foreigners and writers coastal mountain range. The riverbed as shown by geological cores was probably moved to its modern bed on The area of Acheron was importan for writers from the south side of the ancient Acropolis Kastri after 1500 antiquity to modern times. BC and before the beginning of the 19th AD century. The "Psefdoskylakas" in "Periplus" mentions the port Most of the plain north of the mouth of Acheron named "Elea", which flows into the Acheron and was created in modern times from deposits along the coast. Acherousia lake. The Acheron flows into the lake That bay previously stretched at least 3-4 km eastwards in Acherousia. the hinterland (Besonen M., 1997). In Argonauts, the seer Phineas advises the Argonauts to The Acherousia lake, known as Aornos lake, which cross the Acheron (Apollonius Rhodius, Argonautica). means the lake that gives off poisonous fumes, was icy and lifeless. It formerly was located in the east of the hill of In Homer's Odyssey (k) is mentioned the river Acheron Ephyra to Kastri. alongside Pyriphlegethon and Kokkyto. According to estimates, several deposits along the Thucydides, the first historian, mentioned the Acheron shoreline from Roman times onwards decreased the depth River and Acherousia lake and described the region as of the port ( "Gluki Limena"), located west of Ephyra in region of Eleatis. prehistoric and historic times and the sea reached west of References to the Acheron are in the works of the three prehistoric Acropolis, probably to the hillside that is now great tragic poets of antiquity and Plato. known as Punta, right on the south of Kastri. It began to In Roman period Strabo describes the region and says form in this area in part perhaps over the modulated that by the small islands of Sivota opposite the Epirus is physical port, the Acherousia lake, possibly after 800 Cheimerion and “Gluki Limena”, where the river Acheron BC.Q an area between the hills south Ephyra and the poured, which stems from Acherousia lake and accepts Necromanteio. many rivers sweetening the waters of the bay. Above this 3. Current situation: the place nowadays bay there is Kichyros, ancient Efyra city of Thesprotia. Acheron (river) starts from the mountains of and Later Lucian refers to the river Acheron and Acherousia ends in the bay of Ammoudia. It forms a unique landscape lake and places Nekromanteio Babylon (Dialogues of the with rushing water, flowing from sources and cliffs and Dead) and Pausanias mentions that Homer Hades is in moves towards the sea and rivers forming marshes, dunes, Thesprotia and gave the names of the rivers. reeds and general riparian vegetation, mainly bushes. Dio Cassius, a Roman historian of the second and third Generally an important wetland is formed by the state and centuries AD, said that the "Glyki Limena" is the palace action of the river. where Octavius (31 BC) anchored his ships a few days The plant species in the "delta" area are diverse, although before the with Mark Antony and during the recent years have received interventions by the Cleopatra. human factor (crop intensification and infrastructure). Several centuries later, there are reports of the region in The land and sea animals and the birds are numerous fish "Synekdemos" of Hierocles, as well as in church sources of (eg trout. Dusk), reptiles (viper, potamochelona), mammals the time, mostly about the city Euroia. This city probably (eg wolf, otter, weasel), birds. was nowadays in Choika or Gluki while the new location The area is protected by the European network of protected (after displacement of the population due to the barbarian areas Natura 2000 (GR2140001 code), of the Ministry of invasions) was Kasti (Pandosia) or Ioannina Environment (OG 7 / B / 01.13.1977: Acheron bed and In 1084 A.D., as ιη ις mentioned by Anna Comnena, the tributaries Kokytos and Vouvopotamou are historical sites fleet of Norman Duke of Apulia and Calabria "Robert and particularly natural beauty) and the archaeological law Gouiskardou" anchored in Port Glyky. 3028/2002 “For the Protection of Antiquities and in general The modern image of the area is very different, at least as of Cultural Heritage”. far as the port size of the region of Phanari and the non- existence of Acherousian lake, but there are still similarities. In recent years, travellers, archaeologists and others described the monuments in the region of Acheron, like William martin Leake (Travels in northern Greece), Hammond (Epirus), Dakaris (excavation in Necromantio) and Muselimis.

Fig. 3. Eurasian penduline tit Fig. 4. Acheron River

CEST2017_00438 The ancient Nekromantio which used to work in the past during the ancient times (forecasts, connecting people with the dead) was abandoned after 167 BC with the arrival of the Romans. Its function was previously the . The ruins that exist until now are dating back from the hellenistic period. The Hellenistic complex is surrounded by fortification wall made with blocks at the polygonal system. The rectangular complex was built in two periods. It consists of the main temple, treadmills, square space, the maze and the central courtyard surrounded by eight rectangular rooms. It is the most famous oracle of the underworld gods. In the Fig. 5. Acheron river: map (https://el.wikipedia.org) early 18th AD century (during the Ottoman occupation) a fortified house (koulia) was erected on top of the hill and, 4.b.Antiquities near Acheron over the main part of the sanctuary, the church St. John the Baptist.

Near the river there were colonies of the Mycenaean period, such as Efyra, Ilia colonies of the 7th century BC, like Pandosia and the Necromantio, famous by poet Homer (the Oracle of Acheron). The area was important in the Byzantine era and modern times, the surrounding area was the place of confront between the Venetians and Fig. 7.Nekromanteion, Ottomans (Margariti, ), Ali Pasha, local leaders http://www.preveza.gr/ (agas) and the village of Souli. Fig.6.Nekromanteion, http://odysseus.culture.gr/

A brief presentation of archaeological sites and monuments around river Acheron Homer Efyra is on the hill in the North of Necromanteio. It was fortified by the Mycenaean settlers in From the source to the mouth of Acheron, there are the 14th BC century with three Cyclopean walls. The Efyra important archaeological sites that offer great prestige in is the most important Mycenaean settlement in Epirus and the region and make it a tourist attraction. is located on the hill Xylokastro, entering the plain of In thw West of the Acheron sources there is the Acherousian. In ancient times this place was suitable for spectacular ancient acropolis . with polygonal walls called trade to West (Italy). It was also on the communication Trikastro, an area the belongs to the Prefecture of network with the hinterland, especially the oracle of Preveza. Dodona. Glyki, probably in the wider area of the ancient Euroia The monastery of St. Demetrios in the region of and the region of the Bishop Donatos (later Saint) where Kipseli, in Fanari, in the Prefecture of Preveza, is an during the first centuries of the , an early important monument of the Late Byzantine period near the Christian church probably the great basilica of St. Donatos Acheron River and its tributaries. It has a preserved of the Middle Byzantine period was built. inscription of the name Michael. Some scholars believe Noteworthy are the buildings of modern times in the that it refers to the founder Michael II Komnenos - wider area (bridge, Ottoman fortresses etc.). The villages Doukas, ruler of Epirus or according to other scholars it of Souli are also associated with the residents activities of refers to Michael Zoriano, officer Michael B . the plain around the Acheron. The bottom of the river Acheron and the valley of Kokkyto formed ancient Eleatida which was the land around the city of Elea (Thesrpotia) in Epirus. In this region there are some of the most important archaeological sites in the Prefecture of Preveza. Fig. 8. The monastery of St. Demetrios in region of Kipseli, The ancient settlement of Pandosia which is https://www.preveza.gr/ surrounded by a polygonal wall that was built in the 4th century BC. Pandosia was founded by Ilia settlers (and other like Batiai, Elatreia and Bouchetion). In 343/342 BC Between the bay of Ammoudia and Kerentza peninsula Philip gave this region to Molossos Alexander. The of Saint Helena, traces of fortifications (Hellenistic foundation course of the city dates back to the 7th century distinguished). It is very likely due to the strategic position BC and then. It was systematically inhabited in Roman of the fortifications to be associated with the control of the times when it regained part of its power. Some scholars two ports of Sand and Pandosia. mentions that this place is the New Euroia, a city of the In the peninsula of St Helena (an area between the bay byzantine times. of Ammoudia and Kerentza) there area ancient fortification

CEST2017_00438 probably the Hellenistic period. It is very likely due to the The combination of the space with monuments, the strategic position of the fortifications to be associated with updating of the local and not only society, the advertising by the control of the two ports of Sand and Pandosia. professionals and the development of tourism promotion and According to the findings of the area north of the Bay management of the Prefecture of Epirus, will contribute to Alonaki, close to Acheron, human activity covers a wide the publicity of this space and monuments and will bring chronological period. The stone artefacts represent both the revenue to the state. Part of this revenue can be given for the upper Palaeolithic and the Neolithic. During the Middle protection and promotion needs of both the river, the and Late Bronze Age, the site occupies almost the entire wetland formed and the adjacent monuments. hill, and artifacts of these periods were detected across the Alternative tourism will also increase the revenue of the region above the plain. local community by reinforcing the possibility of economic During the Ottoman period, the area around the survival in remote areas of the Greek territory. Acheron was known for its action mainly of Souli. The area near the Ammoudia, known as Splantza became known for the battle between Kyriakos Mavromichali and small Greek forces. The Greek force if tried and did not succeed to open the road to Kiafa to send aid and supplies of Souli, who for the second time took the road of exile.

5 .Tourism promotion and development-Proposals

This area combines natural beauty and archaeological interest. It is an area that historically has been present since prehistoric times to the modern Greek history. The house (chateus) like Koulia in Necromantio and the region, ie in (Koulia) in Margariti (mansions in the type of tower) attract the architectural interest in the houses of the Fig.10.Acheron river, https://upload.wikimedia.org/ Ottoman period with common features in almost all the wikipedia/commons/2/2f/Acheron_today.JPG Balkan countries. The proper utilization of the wider area of the river A SWOT analysis: development and tourist promotion Acheron, which is a remarkable natural, historical and archaeological landscape, without harming the A SWOT analysis will help in the development and tourist environment and monuments, is the duty of the younger in promotion of the area while protecting the cultural order to to make known the region in the world. heritage: It is also an area that is a source of important Strengths: information in the field of environmental education and history. 1. Tourist development many tourists who come for the The exploitation requires measures and infrastructure beaches such as river cleaning works and arrangement of the bed to prevent flooding, common navigation routes, cycling, bird 2. Utilization of river activities watching and other animals, enclosures and fencing work, brochures and signs to meet the naturalistic and 3. Connection of archaeological monuments with the river archaeological routes that combine the beauty of the Acheron through routes Browsing landscape, environmental education with rich animal kingdom and plant life in the region. All these must be 4. Utilization of Parga tourists, which is a large number of examined simultaneously with the archaeological tourists monuments in the area, such as the early Christian basilica in Glyki, Necromanteio, Ephyra, Pandosia. Church of St. Weaknesses: Dimitrios and Hellenistic fortifications in Saint Helena. Alongside the development will protect both the 1. Nearby tourist places can gather tourists while these antiquities and the riverbed. areas are left untapped

2. Antiquities and river belong to two different administrative areas and exploitation can be hampered

3. Absence of tourist accommodation capable of serving a large number of tourists

4. Roads and medical coverage Fig. 9. Acheron river: rafting, Opportunities: http://www.ethnos.gr/

CEST2017_00438 1. The monuments covering a period from the ancient to the modern Greece

2. The proximity to other areas that are known worldwide

3. The beaches and the natural environment of the river Acheron

Threats

1. The degradation of the natural environment

2. The potential of the area in relation to a large number of tourists

6. Conclusions

This area should be developed tourist. Τhe development should respect the human and natural environment.

References Foreign Language: Besonen Richard Marc (1997), “The Middle and Late Holocene Geology and Landscape Evolution of the Lower Acheron River Valley, epiruw, Greece”, Minnesota University Besonen Mark, Rapp George, Jing Zhichun (2003), “The Lower Acheron River Valley: Ancient Accounts and the changing Landscape,” ζηο James Wiseman and Konst. Zachos εκδ. “Landscape Archaeology in Southern Epirus, Greece”, Hesperia Supplement No 32, ASCA, 199-234. Hammond, N. G. L. (1967), Epirus. The Geography, the Ancient Remains, the History and the topography of Epirus and Adjacent Areas, Oxford Leake W., Travels in Northern Greece, Tartaron, T. F. (2004), Bronze Age Landscape and Society in Southern Epirus Greece, BAR 1290, Oxford Wiseman J. (1998), Rethinking the “Halls of Hades”, Archaeology 51 (3) ,12 Greek Language: Dakaris, pp. I (1972), Thesprotia "Ancient Greek cities', 15, Athens Dakaris, S. (1993), The Nekyomanteio Acheron, Athens Zachos, Kon. (1990), AD 1990, 45, B1, p. 250 Preka-Alexandri, K. (1989), SC 1989, 44, Time, p. 313-314 & Tab. 170d. Papadopoulos Ath., Proceedings of the Archaeological Society 1978 p.107, 1979, s.119 - 120, 1980 s.44, 1981 p. 78, 1982 p. 89-90, 1983 p. 81 -82.1984 p. 122-124, 1986, p. 101-102, 1987, p. 125 Papadopoulos Th. I., Kontorli, L. (2003), Prehistoric Archaeology Epirus Ionian islands, Ioannina Sakellariou, MW (1997), 4000 years Epirus Greek history and culture (1997) Editorial Athens, Athens

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