Camino 2018: Via Podensis/Gr65; Del Norte; Primitivo; Fisterra: 03/18/2019
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CAMINO 2018: VIA PODENSIS/GR65; DEL NORTE; PRIMITIVO; FISTERRA: 03/18/2019 Day/Stage Destination Km/Alt Time Rating Notes Ascent/ Descent Total Start/Finish Daily Est. Difficulty/ Notes: Days/ Location Distance & Time Nature • Lodging—preferred and alternatives Stages of Altitudes (Gronze Rating • Regional Notes each Note: Stages & from • Route Notes; Camino generally Total Trip: assume Gronze • Water/Provision Recommendations reflect 1676.2 km/ 4km/hr for Le Puy • Must See Sites/Towns/Routes; Cicerone 1,047.6 mi. average and • Alternative Routes/Variants; recommended ) Terrain • Alternative Stage endpoints with good lodging option; Stages with Via Difficulty/ • Highly Recommended Lodging Options—Albergue/Gite and CH or some Podensis: Signage other single accommodation alternatives. modifications 776.4km/ Rating • Recommended restaurants. from Gronze 485.3 mi to from • Local food specialties and sources/shops. and Godesalco. SJPP and Cicerone • Transportation options. Stages are 800.6km/ for Del merely for 500.4 mi to Norte) planning Roncsvalles purposes—it is Total important to Vertical: “go with the 11,420 M/ flow” and stop 37,467 Ft. where/when the spirit Del Norte & and/or my Primitivo: body indicates. 791.5km/ 494.7 mi to Santiago and 875.6 1 mi to Fisterra Departure MSP to CDG Flight: DL 140 boards at 3:30 & departs MSP at 4:25pm CDT arrive CDG Day 0 7:30 am; 8 hrs, 5 minutes August 30: This is Day Zero as it doesn’t count against my 90 day “no visa” limit under Thursday Schengen Agreement. Pre- Paris CDG to Le DL 140 arrives CDG, Terminal 2E at 7:30am Camino Puy-en-Velay CDG to Le Puy by Train: [NEED PAPER E-TICKET—DO NOT NEED TO Day 1 VALIDATE IN YELLOW MACHINE] August 31: 1. 11:57am Depart CDG (Aeroport CDG2 TGV) on Train 9826 arriving Friday Lyon Part Dieu at 14:00/2:00pm; 2. Depart Lyon Part Dieu at 15:05/3:05pm on Train 6684 arriving St. Etienne Chatea at 15:48/3:48pm; 3. Depart St. Etienne Chatea at 15:57/3:57pm on Train 89960 arriving Le Puy En Velay at 17:20/5:20pm. Rail Europe Booking Number 44237208: The SNCF main line station at Paris CDG is called ‘Aeroport Charles de Gaulle 2 – TGV’ and is located in between terminals 2C-2D and 2E-2F. Normally, Need to remember to validate your train ticket before boarding the train. The yellow validation machine is located at the bottom of the escalator and before you walk along the train tracks towards your train.TBV Train to Lyon Port Dieu (2hrs); Train from Gare de Lyon to Saint-Etienne Chateau (46 minutes); Train to Le Puy (1 hr. & 32 minutes). Lodging in Le Puy: AirBNB Reservation HMTW22XSTB for 8/31 & 9/1 checking out 9/2; 12 Rue Saint-Georges Le Puy-en-Velay, Auvergne- Rhone-Alpes 43000 (next to Cathedral), Le Puy; $56.60; Host: Sebastien: +33 6 67 26 3082; Breakfast from 7-9am for 6E (order 48 hrs. in advance). Other Lodging Notes: Le Puy municipal albergue has cubicles/curtains so it is somewhat private; Gite Relais Saint Jacques is recommended by many Pilgrims as is Capucins (but Capucins isn’t near the Cathedral and that is probably important for an easy start with the Pilgrim’s blessing service and departure from Le Puy); accueil Saint François is a bit quieter and smaller 2 than the big gites. Gîte Beilari is across from Pilgrim Office and is recommended. Pre- Sights of Le Puy Pilgrim Welcome & Blessing: 5:30pm each day near or in the Cathedral; Camino and Final Obtain Credentials: get credentials after 7am mass or in sacristy from 10- Day 2 Camino 12 and 2-6 Sept 1 Preparation Obtain Sim Card: Obtain French/Spanish sim card and set up phone. Take Saturday passport. Make sure it allows tethering or hotspot, that it works with WhatsApp and Skype; does it work in Spain; coverage map; cost of texts and call in France, Spain and to US? Write down the new number and PIN code and put with passport. Send new number to key contacts and to confirmed reservations. Current Plan: Buy Orange Card for France/Spain with some data, but primarily so I can call, text, and use online maps on my trip. Also can set up messenger, Facebook, iMessage, etc. (look at my phone and download the ones I think I will use) when I need data for them—this probably includes my online banking since I trust cell data more than I trust Wi-Fi. My online maps don’t use data—GPS only (iPhiGeNie., Maps.me; Wise Pilgrim Guide maps). Otherwise, keep my cell phone data “off”—it is critical to keep phone in “Airplane Mode” to avoid all data usage and don’t incur the $10 charge unless I need to—mostly use Wi-Fi. Light Show at 9:30pm in Le Puy. Reconfirm any initial Gite reservations and provide them with my French phone number (most won’t accept a US number and they like to have a contact number to reconfirm the day before arrival)—especially first few nights, but best to send to all reserved lodging. Purchase Final Items on Supply List: 1. Tourist Office: Buy Miam Miam DoDo (only buy the first volume that covers the initial stages—not all three volumes of Miam Miam DoDo) from Tourist Office (if needed—I decided not to buy it as I had the app and actually didn’t use it much) & Michelin 725 Map— Chemins de Compostela (I didn’t buy it and didn’t need a paper map on my Camino—the apps were sufficient…and much lighter) 3 2. Decathelon for sporting goods/gear (I didn’t go to Decathelon in Le Puy and found other camping stores in Le Puy but really didn’t need anything; I did go to Decathelon in Oviedo on Del Norte and it was fabulous—high quality gear/clothing at reasonable prices; 3. Grocery store for initial bread/cheese/sausage/fruit provisions since initial stages have few services. Note that most shops are closed on Sundays and Mondays so plan accordingly. 4. Camino shell for pack. (These are available in many stores. They are somewhat fragile, so there is an art to how/where you attach them on the back of your pack so they are visible without getting in the way or getting broken.) Sites in Le Puy: Cathedral; Ancient hospital Hotel-Dieu; Church of Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe (the walk to and the hike up the steps to this ancient Pilgrim Chapel and lodging place is a “must see—must experience”— simply an unforgettable start to a Camino; Statue of Notre-Dame de France; Market on Saturday is very nice; Dining Options for Pre-departure Dinner: La Table du Plot in the main square is excellent with great service and variety; La Cinqieme Saison is also recommended. Le Puy-en- 16/16 4:30 3/2 Blessing at Cathedral: 7AM mass each morning. Obtain Credential if I Day 3/1 Velay 663M to 500M 16km didn’t get it day before. Stage 1 of To 1,117 M Ascent climb Region of Velay: volcanic region formed 14 million years ago; basalt plateau Camino via Montbonnet ? Route: Steady climb from 663M to 1,117M in Montbonnet. Podiensis/ 784.6 to R Descent Water/Services: Pack light lunch and fill water in Le Puy as few services— Chemin du Roncevalles none on Sunday/Monday. Puy—en- 1660.2 to F Lodging in Montbonnet: Book Well in Advance: Gite d’Etape Prive Velay Fisterra (Chrsitain & Francoise Gentes) in La Grange Bar in renovated farmhouse is Sept 2 highly recommended—I stayed there and it was a perfect “first Gite” Sunday experience with wonderful communal dinner and views/accommodations; +33 (0)4 71 57 54 44; [email protected]; gitelagrangegr65.fr; link is on Rob’s list; also, Gite L’Escole is highly recommended. Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison: Small 11th Century Romanesque church built from reddish volcanic rock; it has 4-arched bell tower and the wooden 4 alter depicts St. Christopher—the patron saint of travelers. Remains of communal oven are near the church. Other Notes: Depart Mid-Week: Consider departing Le Puy mid-week (Wed or Thursday): Most pilgrims start on Sat or Sunday (40+/- depending on time of year, so will be less crowded mid-week). Lodging in Saint-Privat- d’Allier: La Cadbourne is recommended. 4/2 Montbonnet 14.5/30.5 5:15 3/3 Route: Short climb out of Montbonnet then very steep descent into Saint- Sept 3 To 1,117M to ? Big climbs Private-d’Allier (869). Another short climb to Rochegude (932) then very Monday Monistrol- 615M Ascent and steep descent into Montistrol-d’Allier (615). Use caution on steep footpath d’Allier 770.1 to R ? descents from Rochegude to Pratclaux—in rain, consider taking alternate route on 1645.7 to F Descent D301 from Rochegude. Water/Services: Fill water in morning. Take provisions as no services. Eiffel Bridge: constructed 1 year before Eiffel Tower. Sites in Saint-Privat-d’Allier: great view of Allier valley; private 13th century castle and 12th Century Romanesque Church. Sites in Rochgude: Beautiful views from Chapel of Saint Jacques and adjacent ruins of medieval watch tower. Sites in Monistrol-d’Allier: : Chapel of Saint-Jacques—great view of valley; Tour des Anglais; Saint-Medard Collegiate Church. Lodging in Monistrol d’Allier: Book Well in Advance Le Repos du Pelerin is a nice hotel & delicious restaurant in town—I stayed there and highly recommend it: €33 shared room/€50 half board or €50 B&B 1 person; Also recommended: Gite d’ Etape La Tsabone €33 half-board—12 beds, English spoken, very welcoming.