Northern Greece: Birds & History May 22–June 1, 2020 ©2019
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NORTHERN GREECE: BIRDS & HISTORY MAY 22–JUNE 1, 2020 ©2019 Meteora, Greece © Voyagerix-Shutterstock For most travelers, the allure of Greece is forever bound in its classical ruins, sun-splashed islands, and wine-dark Aegean Sea. Indeed, images of the Acropolis and islands such as Crete and Santorini stoke the postcard ideal of Greece like no others. However, for those with a strong sense of curiosity and a desire to look deeper into the heart of this ancient country, lies another Greece—Northern Greece—an overlooked region very different from that of the iconic south, a scenic land of mountains, lakes, river deltas, and less known but equally impressive historical sites and architectural wonders. On this new tour, we will travel to Northern Greece, a part of the country virtually unknown to most North Americans and a place that defies popular perceptions of Greece. On this “Birds and History” trip, we will travel from Athens to Alexandroupolis, mixing time in premier birding locations with visits to historical sites of quiet renown. Our birding pursuits will take us to areas that are not only the top sites in Greece, but among the top birding sites in all of Eastern Europe. These include the Nestos River Delta, Lakes Vistonida and Ismarida, the beautiful Dadia Forest, the Evros River Delta, and magical Lake Kerkini. Northern Greece, Page 2 The birding should be exceptional, and we expect encounters with a great many species not found farther south in Greece. A sample of species we may observe includes Ferruginous Duck, Dalmatian and Great White pelicans, Pygmy Cormorant, Purple Heron, Black and White storks, Eurasian Stone- Curlew, Spur-winged Lapwing, European Roller, Black and Syrian woodpeckers, Calandra Lark, Isabelline Wheatear, Eastern Orphean and Olive-tree warblers, Semicollared Flycatcher, Eurasian Penduline-Tit, Bearded Reedling, Red-backed and Masked Shrikes, and European Golden Oriole. This part of Greece is also one of the richest areas in Europe for raptors, with as many as twenty-five species of vultures, eagles, buzzards, sparrow-hawks, and falcons possible. Many of these are either not found in other parts of Europe or have become much rarer, including Cinereous and Egyptian vultures, Lesser Spotted and Booted eagles, Levant Sparrowhawk, and Red-footed and Eleonora’s falcons. On the cultural front, we will visit remarkable historical sites associated with different periods in Greece’s illustrious past, including Pella, historic capital of the ancient kingdom of Macedon and birthplace of Alexander the Great; Meteora, a beautiful valley containing medieval-era monasteries of the Eastern Orthodox faith, all constructed atop a series of dramatic rock spires; and finally, a city tour of Thessaloniki, featuring the White Tower, Arch of Galerius, the Church of St. Demetrios, and the old Jewish Quarter. Note that this tour may be taken alone or as an extension to our cruise: Greece: A Circumnavigation of the Peloponnese, May 13-22, 2020. Northern Greece, Page 3 May 22, Day 1: Travel from Athens to Kalampaka. For travelers joining the Northern Greece tour only: Those not taking the cruise, but joining the land-based tour only, will be picked up at the hotel The Alex in Piraeus, the port town of Athens, on the morning of May 22. Those joining only the land tour will need to depart the USA on May 20. Flights from the United States bound for Athens (airport code ATH) arrive on the morning of May 21. Upon arrival, you will be met outside the baggage claim area by a representative of our ground agent and transferred to the hotel The Alex in Piraeus, where a room will be reserved in your name. Upon check-in you will have the remainder of the day and evening for rest and relaxation following the long international flight. NOTE: Because your tour leaders and many of the other tour participants will not be arriving in Piraeus until early on May 22, there will be no group activities planned for May 21. As such, the transfer from the airport to the hotel, and reservations at The Alex on May 21 are not included in the tour fee with the cost added to our invoice, approximately $395. Also note, you are on your own for all meals until the group lunch on May 22. For travelers continuing from the cruise: Greece: A Circumnavigation of the Peloponnese: The Harmony G will arrive in Piraeus this morning around 7:00 a.m. following a very early departure from Aegina. Disembarkation will occur by 8:00 a.m. at which time we will be met by our local guide and transportation and board a bus to meet the rest of the group at a nearby hotel before working our way through Athens on our way north. Once we are all together, our journey begins! Our destination for the next two nights is the community of Kalampaka in central Greece. The journey from Athens to Kalampaka will take about four hours and will see us traversing the interior of north Attica as we make our way into the Central Greece administrative region. En route, the changing landscape will include a mixture of coastal scenery and agricultural and pastoral lands before the first mountains begin to appear. We will make a couple of stops for bathrooms and have lunch in a local tavern in the city of Karditsa. We will arrive in Kalampaka in the mid-afternoon. The first order of business will be checking in to our hotel followed by a short break. Our plan is to then spend an hour and a half or two hours birding in the rural country around the town. The specific destination we’ll visit will be determined by our local guides, but the overall region contains a number of widely occurring species. Some of the birds we may see this afternoon are Eurasian Jay, Eurasian Jackdaw, Eurasian Blue Tit, Short-toed Snake-Eagle, Syrian Woodpecker, Crested Lark, and Cirl Bunting. For a taste of the local fare, we’ll have dinner at a tavern in town. NIGHT: Divani Meteora Hotel, Kalampaka May 23, Day 2: Morning tour of Meteora; afternoon birding excursion. Today we will spend the entire day in the Kalampaka area. In the morning we’ll enjoy a guided tour of the remarkable historical site of Meteora, while the afternoon’s activities center on another birding excursion outside Kalampaka. So much of Greece’s renown is derived from its pre-classical and classical past, from the times when men like Homer, Pericles, Sophocles, Socrates, and Aristotle were going about their business giving birth to western civilization. For most travelers to Greece, history starts and ends with these ancients, and others, who lived centuries before the birth of Christ and who built timeless monuments of marble in honor of the Olympian gods they worshipped. However, a closer look at Greek history reveals a civilization that did not end abruptly with the coming of the Romans, but rather a civilization dramatically transformed, certainly by the Romans, but namely by the arrival of Christianity and subsequent waves of cultural influences and new ethnicities. Although Athens would no longer be the center of the western world, Greece, in close proximity to Byzantium to the east, developed in the Eastern Orthodox tradition, which in turn produced lasting architectural achievements. One place where this tradition is on display is Meteora, Northern Greece, Page 4 The Meteora Valley © Sianstock-Shutterstock Situated in a valley at the northwest edge of the plain of Thessaly in central Greece, Meteora is a Byzantine site, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its monasteries of the Eastern Orthodox faith. Dating from the fourteenth-seventeenth centuries, the monasteries are beautiful constructions of brick, stone, and red-tile roofs. While the edifices themselves are cause for wonder, it is their individual locations atop a series of rock spires that makes for an arresting sight. We will arrive at the historical park at the time it opens in order to beat the crowds and to take advantage of the cooler morning temperatures. There we will meet up with a licensed guide who will lead us on a morning-long interpretive tour. The inaccessible placement of the monasteries is attributable to the vulnerability of the monastic order that called the area home. The monks who served here sought a place of refuge where they could worship in peace and solitude in a region rocked by upheaval from the clashes between the Byzantine Empire and the ascendant Ottoman Turks. Originally, there were at least twenty monasteries, but today six survive: the monasteries of the Great Meteora, Varlaam, Rousanou, St. Nicholas Anapafsas, St. Stephen, and the Holy Trinity. Monastery of the Holy Trinity, Meteora © saiko3p-Shutterstock Northern Greece, Page 5 Our tour may include the possibility of entering one or more of the monasteries, but doing so will require ascending long flights of steps. As Meteora is a natural setting, we are likely to see birds during our tour. We will readily interrupt our guide to point out any number of birds that could appear around us, including Eurasian Kestrel, Blue Rock-Thrush, Eurasian Crag-Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Western Rock Nuthatch, and Black-eared Wheatear among others. After lunch in town, we may have time for an afternoon break before we go out again in the afternoon for a couple of hours of birding. Again, the site we choose to visit will be determined by our local guide, but undoubtedly, we’ll want to position ourselves so that we may see a variety of birds new for the trip. Among the possibilities from our time in the field are Middle Spotted and Eurasian Green woodpeckers, European Roller, Eurasian Nuthatch, Subalpine and Eastern Orphean warblers, Semicollared Flycatcher, and Wood Lark.