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The Victorian Naturalist Become Instructed to Keep These Glorious 21: 17-28

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The Victorian Naturalist Become Instructed to Keep These Glorious 21: 17-28 Contributions Ferdinand Mueller in the Jungles and 'Australian Switzerland' of East Gippsland Linden Gillbank* The vegetation of East Gippsland has a summers on extensive field trips long reputation for attracting botanical surveying the flora of the colony. Since interest. Impressive even to non- explorers and botanists, including botanically-trained eyes are sheltered Mueller himself, had already collected patches of cool and warm temperate and documented some of the plants of rainforest, and striking plants such as the lowland southern and eastern Australia, Gippsland Waratah, Telopea oreades F. Mueller was most anxious to investigate Muell., and the blotchy mintbush, the unknown flora of Victoria's alps - a Prostanthera walteri F. Muell. Before the flora which could provide new plants for conversion of many rich river flat European horticulture. However, he rainforests into pasture, and long before included lowland parts of Gippsland in the investigations of Norman Wakefield, each of these three epic expeditions David Ashton and David Cameron, (Barnard 1904; Gillbank 1992a). another botanist was also fascinated by East Gippsland was of particular interest the diversity and richness of the to a botanist in search of the eastern limits vegetation of East Gippsland. of Victorian plants and the southern limits Almost 140 years ago Victoria's first of sub-tropical plants. In his second and government botanist, Dr Ferdinand (later third trips Mueller crossed the lower Baron von) Mueller, sought a particular Snowy and Brodribb rivers to reach patch of near-coastal warm temperate Cabbage-tree Creek, where he marvelled rainforest - vine-smothered 'jungle' at the tropical appearance ofjungle which which nurtured the colony's only included the Cabbage Tree Palm, indigenous palm. Later he ventured even Livistona australis (R. Br.) Martius, and further east - into areas which he called many vines and other plants which 4 botanists, such as Robert Brown and Allan Australian Switzerland' . He was delighted with his botanical findings in Cunningham, had already found much both the 'jungles' and 'Australian further north along the eastern coast of Switzerland' of East Gippsland. Australia. A few years later Mueller tip of the This paper describes Mueller's mid- managed to reach the eastern of the nineteenth century botanical exploration colony and documented the flora environs - parts of of the largely trackless and little- known Genoa valley and its as 'Australian part of the colony east of the Snowy River. which he later described Decades later, as new tracks were being Switzerland*. 1853 cut through the district of Croajingolong, First field trip, expedition began Mueller proposed that FNCV members Mueller's first field January 1853, within days of his should visit the region, and argued for the late in Government Botanist. formation of vegetation reserves in East appointment as covering over 2,000 Gippsland. The five month trip but included Ferdinand Mueller kilometres targeted the alps (Gillbank 1 99 ). Dr Ferdinand Mueller was appointed to parts of South Gippsland 1 1853 Mueller stayed at Alberton. the new position of Government Botanist In May end of the Tambo Valley for the young colony of Victoria in At the southern and the Monaro Tableland, January 1853, and spent his first three track toOmeo Alberton was the gate-way to Gippsland. From there he sailed across to Wilson's * History and Philosopy of Science Department Promontory, whose flora he was keen to The University of Melbourne Parkville 3052, 209 Vol. 110 (5) 1993 Contributions compare with that of Tasmania. Pleased (Williamson 1919). Since, in the 1850s, with his botanical findings, he was aware the exact position of the eastern end of the that botanical riches awaited discovery in NSW-Victorian border was still other parts of Gippsland. As he explained unknown, it could be said that Mueller to the Chief Secretary, was being thorough, as well as generous, I feel perfectly convinced, that the more in including plants from the Snowy distant localities in the East and North of Mountains in the flora of Victoria. Gipps land must be considered as the Since Mueller's reports and letters were richest and most deserving country for a primarily vehicles for botanical full phytological exploration (Mueller to information, it is unfortunate but not Lonsdale, 19 May 1853). surprising that they include only rare The fruits of Mueller's second and third mention of the people who provided expeditions vindicated his botanical information, company and shelter, and expectations. only sparse details of the routes he Second Field Trip, 1853/54 followed. Mueller did report that, during During his second expedition, Mueller his quest for the Cabbage Tree Palms in managed to reach both North and East the summer of 1853/54, he was unable to Gippsland. In the summer of 1853/54 follow the Snowy River southwards from bushfires prevented his reaching the heart where he thought it crossed the NSW of Victoria's alps. Disappointed, he border. Instead he had to backtrack to climbed the Cobberas mountains and then Omeo to follow the main Monaro-Gippsland continued in a north-easterly direction to track down the Tambo valley and then trek where he thought the Snowy River eastwards across the lower Snowy River crossed the unsurveyed NSW border. He towards Cabbage-tree Creek (Mueller to followed the main Monaro-Omeo track Foster, 10 March 1854). from south of the Cobberas across the His published reports do not reveal his ranges to the junction of the Pinch and source of information about those palms. Snowy rivers and perhaps a further few However, in a letter written decades later, miles up the Snowy Valley (Wakefield Mueller acknowledged some pastoral 1952). By the Snowy river Mueller (1854) help. He mentioned that the McLeods noticed the Kurrajong, Brachychiton knew of the unusual patch of palms near populneus R. Br., the lower Brodribb River, which then a beautiful tree from the tropics, growing formed the eastern boundary of John with its turgid stem out of the bare granite McLeod's Orbost run. The Newmerella or rocks, washed by the tremendous floods Lochend run on the other (western) side of the melting snow. With many of its of the Snowy River was leased by John's usual companions, it reaches here its most older brother, Norman (Wakefield southerly limits. 1969a). Mueller explained that, while Mueller's collections from this part of searching for pasture, Norman McLeod the Snowy Valley were all from well and two other squatters had stumbled within what is now known to be New across the patch of palms, which, South since it Wales and included several species was not pasture vegetation, held little which were not authentically recorded for interest for them (Mueller to Barnard, Jjctona for nearly a century (Wakefield 19 February 1889). 1952). Mueller was quite generous (some In March may 1854, several years after the say cavalier) in determining which pastoralists' discovery of the palms, P ants could be considered Victorian Mueller reached Plants McLeod's deserted found within about a day's walk Orbost run and the already-named outside the colony's border were accepted Cabbage-tree Creek, where he found the as Victorian and included in his 'Key to Cabbage Tree the Palms, whose genus he System of Victorian Plants' sometimes called Corypha and 210 Victorian Nat. Contributions sometimes Livistona. He quickly late in the season and many plants were informed the Chief Secretary that: already in fruit. To observe their flowers, Here occurs between the Broadribb [sic] Mueller realized that he would have to and Snowy-river sparingly and on a rather revisit East Gippsland earlier in the circumscribed locality on the Cabbage-tree season. river the stately Corypha australis, the Perhaps many other connections with the only Palmtree of the province (Mueller to Flora of the Morton-bay district will be Foster, 10 March 1854). once pointed out, as I could in this cursory In this letter, and in his Annual Report visit not exhaust the botanical richdom of Mueller wrote glowingly of this beautiful the place; for the impossibility of fan palm. recrossing the Snowy River without The stately Corypha palm or Livistonia canoes in rainy weather and the want of [sic] australis, one of the 'princes of the protection against the hostilities of the vegetable world,' attains here the height aborigines since the Squatting- stations of more than sixty feet, and may be here are deserted, induced me to an earlier deemed one of the most useful return, as I originally desired (Mueller to productions of our Flora, furnishing in its Foster, 10 March 1854). young leafstalks and terminal bud the He forwarded his botanical specimens to palm cabbage, a food equally wholesome Governor La Trobe via the Police and delicious, whilst the fan-shaped Magistrate at Alberton, who, on Mueller's leaves are eagerly collected for the previous expedition, had helped him manufacture of hats (Mueller 1854). reach Wilson's Promontory (Mueller to Mueller was pleased and proud to be La Trobe, 14 March 1854). Excited but able to locate and identify Victoria's only only partly satisfied with his botanical palm and to make its presence known to observations, Mueller returned to the the government and public. Botanic Gardens in Melbourne to Mueller was amazed that, at a latitude complete his over 3,000 kilometre trek. similar to that of Melbourne, the Third field trip, 1854/55 vegetation appeared so tropical. On his third epic botanical expedition Many of the plants which the late Allan Mueller succeeded in reaching the alps of Cunningham collected in Illawarra and Victoria and New South Wales, from where he again sought to visit made that locality his favourite place, I the fabulous palm jungles of East Gippsland. was also fortunate enough to observe here This time he travelled south along the track to the towards the mouth of the Snowy river and west of the Snowy River, through along the Broadribb [sic] and Cabbage- Wulgulmerang, Murrindal and Buchan tree river, where almost suddenly the pastoral runs, to the lower Snowy River vegetation assumes a tropical character (Wakefield 1969b).
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