Queensland National Parks
Cape York Peninsula national parks Contents Park facilities...... 2
Be inspired; Welcome ...... 3
Map of Cape York Peninsula ...... 4
Imagine your journey ...... 5
Consider camping...... 6–7
Plan your escape ...... 8–9
What do you want to see and do? ...... 10–11
Choose your route ...... 12–13
Parks around Cooktown ...... 14–15
Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park (CYPAL)...... 16–17
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park (CYPAL) ...... 18–19
Heathlands Resources Reserve, Jardine River National Park and Resources Reserve ...... 20–21
Palmer Goldfield Resources Reserve ...... 22
Errk Oykangand National Park (CYPAL) ...... 23
Cape Melville National Park (CYPAL) ...... 24
Oyala Thumotang National Park (CYPAL) ...... 25
Journey with confidence ...... 26–27
Further information ...... 28
Park facilities
Camping Self-service booking facility Ranger base Toilets Day-use area Lookout /viewing platform Short walk Long walks Use of generators permitted
Black Mountain NP
Cape Melville NP (CYPAL)
Errk Oykangand NP (CYPAL)
Heathlands RR
Jardine River NP
Keatings Lagoon CP
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Mount Cook NP
Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL)
Palmer Goldfield RR
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
close to park specified camping areas only
Peninsula Developmental Road Margot Warnett © Queensland Government
2 Experience a ‘cultural landscape’, interwoven with Explore significant places, a vast wilderness on long stretches of dusty traditional stories and roads, with dips and bends, ruts and bull dust deep spiritual meaning, and challenging creek crossings. and sense the strength of Aboriginal peoples’ connection to country.
Escape with family and friends as you immerse yourself in nature in this awe-inspiring landscape, far from everyday distractions.
Celebrate that exhilarating feeling of reaching The Tip on your epic adventure. Savour the achievement, soak up the view— you’re at the very top of Australia! Encounter
(Clockwise from top left): Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events a tantalising history, rich in stories of pioneering Qld; © Tourism and Events Qld; Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld; John Augusteyn © Qld Govt; © Tourism and Events Qld spirit and overwhelming hardship, as you follow in the footsteps of many who have gone before.
Welcome to Cape York Peninsula parks and reserves
As a park ranger and Traditional Owner, I welcome you to ‘the cape’, on behalf of all the rangers of Cape York. Some of us have cultural and spiritual connections to these parks, some of us have worked here for many years, and all of us are happy to have a yarn, so come and say ‘G’day’ and we’ll give you our tips on where to go and what to do. We hope you have a good experience on ‘the cape’, and take home good memories. Respect the environment and our cultural places, and come back again!
Barry Liddie, Ranger, on behalf of the rangers of Cape York Peninsula © Qld Govt
3 Parks of Cape York Peninsula Map legend (these symbols are used throughout this brochure)
National park 2WD access
Conservation park, Camping Horn Island Resources reserve Thursday Island Cape York Water Camping—non national park (the Tip) Waterways Water on tap
Seisia Sealed road Day-use area Bamaga Jardine River RR Unsealed road Short walk Jardine 4WD track Jardine Hiking track River River NP Town Lookout Eliot Place of interest Falls Popular Vehicle ferry travellers' stop Captain Billy Fishing Heathlands RR Landing Ranger base Boat access Bamaga Rd Overland Telegraph Line Toilets Wuthathi (Shelburne Payphone Mapoon Bramwell Fuel Bay) NP (CYPAL) Over-the-counter camping Junction permit booking office Roadhouse Bromley (Ampulin) Mechanical repairs Wen live River Batavia NP (CYPAL) loc O NP (CYPAL) Self-service camping k 4WD access River permit booking kiosk Weipa Moreton Telegraph Station ission R M iver Chilli Beach Napranum Kutini–Payamu (Iron Bromley (Kungkaychi) Telegraph Rd Range) NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL) Lockhart River Peninsula Developmental Archer River Scale Aurukun Rd Roadhouse 0 50 100km
Kulla (McIlwraith Oyala Thumotang Range) NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL) Coen Peninsula Flinders Group Cape Melville Developmental Rd Port NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL) Lama Lama Stewart NP (CYPAL) Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Musgrave Roadhouse Juunju Daarrba Nhirrpan NP (CYPAL) Pormpuraaw Alwal NP Muundhi (CYPAL) Lakefield (Jack River) Olkola Endeavour River NP (Kurrumbila) RR Hann River NP (CYPAL) Roadhouse Cooktown Olkola NP (CYPAL) Hope Vale
Kowanyama Errk Oykangand Laura Mount Cook NP NP (CYPAL) Keatings Lagoon CP Palmer Annan River Goldfield RR Lakeland (Yuku Baja-Muliku) NP Palmer River Black Mountain NP Roadhouse Daintree Daintree NP Mossman Port Douglas Staaten Mount Carbine River NP Burke Mount Molloy Developmental Cairns Road Mareeba Chillagoe Chillagoe–Mungana Atherton Karumba Caves NP Bulleringa 4 NP Stand at the top of Australia. Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld
Best ways to visit Imagine your journey The peninsula can be explored on a self- drive journey of discovery, in your own way Featuring landscapes of unsurpassed beauty and immense diversity, and in your own time. Use the checklists rich with Aboriginal traditions and customs and European history, and itinerary suggestions (pages 8–13) to Cape York Peninsula offers adventure aplenty! help plan your ‘adventure of a lifetime’.
Best time to visit Add some local flavour If you prefer someone else to do the planning, consider a ‘tag-along’ tour with The dry season, between May and Experience the ‘real cape’ by visiting an experienced guide. If you don’t have October, is the best time to enjoy Cape local attractions, events and festivals. the correct vehicle or camping gear, or if York Peninsula. From May to July, maximum Choose from museums and cultural you lack the experience or confidence to temperatures are around 30°C. As the centres, rodeos and race carnivals, drive yourself, consider a commercial tour. season progresses, the days become hotter agricultural and country shows, fishing Tours range from 2–16 days, including fly/ and more humid. tournaments and cycling events, drive and drive/cruise options, and cater and cultural celebrations such as the The peninsula is busiest between June and for special interests such as bird watching Laura Dance Festival and Cooktown September, during the ‘cooler’ weather. and fishing. Visitqueensland.com for Discovery Festival. Find details at School holiday periods (July and September) details of tour providers. tourismcapeyork.com. are best avoided if you seek solitude.
Parks on the peninsula are closed during the wet season from around 1 December until April or May but sometimes as late as August, depending upon weather and road conditions. While the main roads through the peninsula may open from around May, some park access roads are not passable until later in the season. Check qld.gov.au/ ParkAlerts.
All roads lead north! (left); Laura Dance Festival (above). © Tourism and Events Queensland
5 Melaleuca waterhole camping area, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) © Tamara Vallance
Consider camping Travel tips Check out the camping area maps on Sitting by a camp fire and sleeping under the stars is an essential the web site to help you choose which ingredient of your Cape York Peninsula adventure! Consider your camp site you want. Some parks have camping options before you start planning your trip. many sites!
Mobile coverage on the peninsula • For other camping areas, during school Camping in national parks is limited to large towns so making National parks camping is very holiday periods book at least 2–3 online bookings is not easy. Create affordable—for the cost of a cuppa, you months in advance. your camping booking account at can sleep in million-star comfort! • Outside of holiday periods, book at home before you head off, and book least several days in advance. as many nights in advance as you can. Camping opportunities vary from large developed camping areas with all the Book online You can change or cancel your booking up to 2 days before your ‘mod cons’ (well, toilets and showers) Book your camp site and obtain your booking date and obtain a refund. to isolated bush camping areas with no camping permit online, 24/7. Booking facilities. To find your perfect camp site, online is a simple, five-step process. Avoid ghost-bookings! Be considerate visit qld.gov.au/NationalParks, select 1. Visit qld.gov.au/Camping. of other campers—make sure you Find a park or forest, browse by region cancel your booking if you don’t 2. Login or Create Account. (Cape York Peninsula) and search for need it! 3. Select Camping and find your site. camping areas that suit your needs— Make sure you camp in the correct 4. Use a payment card to secure your select Camping as well as other facilities camp site (if sites are numbered) to such as Toilets, Generators permitted, and booking. avoid confusion and conflict. Camper trailer sites. 5. Record your permit number (for display on your tent/trailer). Book camp sites in advance Once you have found your perfect What if I don’t know my exact dates? camp site, you must book your site and When planning your camping bookings, purchase a camping permit in advance. you may want to allow for bad weather, If you arrive at a national park without a breakdowns or extending your stay in a prior booking or camping permit, you may place you love. If you are travelling outside miss out. Camping in Cape York Peninsula of holiday periods, you can afford to be a parks is very popular, and many camping bit flexible. We still recommend booking areas book out quickly. as much of your trip as you can before you leave (to avoid disappointment), but • For popular camping areas, such as where you need flexibility, you can book Chilli Beach and Eliot Falls, book as far your sites closer to the time (a few days in advance as possible. ahead) while you are on the road (outside
of school holidays). Travel with a detailed road map © Queensland Government 6 How do I book while travelling? Camping outside national Gear and supplies You can access the online booking service parks When travelling on the peninsula you via your mobile phone or tablet. But You can also camp in roadhouses along need to be self-sufficient with vehicle because most areas of Cape York Peninsula the Peninsula Developmental Road recovery gear, a basic repair kit and plenty don’t have mobile coverage you need to (PDR) and caravan parks in towns such of fuel, food and water. plan ahead for when and where to make as Lakeland, Laura, Coen and Seisia. Fuel and most standard supplies are your bookings. Other camping options include stations available in major towns and from • Take advantage of mobile coverage in such as Bramwell and Silver Plains, and roadhouses along the PDR. Limited towns such as Laura, Lakeland Downs, Moreton Telegraph Station. For more vehicle repair services are available Cooktown and Coen, and book online details, visit tourismcapeyork.com. in Cooktown, Coen, Weipa, Seisia and before you leave town. several roadhouses. • Use free Wi-Fi in Visitor Information Camping equipment Centres (Mareeba and Cooktown). Vehicles and trailers You must carry your own drinking The main roads through the peninsula— water (or water treatment equipment) What if I can’t get online? the Peninsula Developmental Road (PDR) as drinking water is not available in If you can’t book online: and Telegraph Track Bypass Roads— national parks. Where water taps • visit an over-the-counter permit are graded and have no major river are provided, the water supply is not suitable for drinking. booking office accepting cash, eftpos crossings. Access roads into and through and payment cards at ARB in Cairns; national parks are suitable only for 4WD vehicles. To visit the more rugged and Atherton Visitor Information Centre; Navigation remote parks you need a high-clearance Cooktown Botanic Gardens (Kindred Carry a detailed map of Cape York 4WD vehicle. Cafe) and Moreton Telegraph Station. Peninsula, such as a HEMA map, in your If you are towing a trailer, you need to vehicle; you may also find a GPS useful. • use a self-service booking kiosk at check which roads are suitable. You need Consider purchasing an adventure travel Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service a high-clearance off-road camper trailer guide to Cape York Peninsula. These (QPWS) offices at Cooktown and Coen, to traverse access roads and internal comprehensive guides contain detailed and Lakefield ranger base (Rinyirru); Iron roads in national parks and reserves. road descriptions and useful advice for Range ranger base (Kutini-Payamu) and Internal park roads and camping areas travellers. Heathlands ranger base (Heathlands RR) are not suitable for towing caravans. using a payment card or camping credit. Communication If you plan to camp in national parks, Mobile phone coverage is generally • phone 13 QGOV (13 74 68) to book check which camping areas and camp not available in Cape York Peninsula, using a payment card or camping sites are accessible for camper trailers, although some networks may have credit. Payphones are provided at many and which can cater for rigs of your service in major towns. Public payphones roadhouses and in towns. size. Visit qld.gov.au/NationalParks, are provided at several locations. Carry See map (page 4) for locations of booking select Find a park or forest, browse by a satellite phone or UHF or HF radio. A offices, self-service booking kiosks and region (Cape York Peninsula) and select Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is also payphones. Camping and Camper trailer sites. advisable in case of emergencies.
Camping at Horseshoe Lagoon, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) (left); This could be you (above) © John Augusteyn (left); Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Queensland (above) 7 Escape to the open road © Tourism and Events Qld
Plan your escape ama a
e a Kutini-Payamu NP Like any challenge, the success of your Cape York Peninsula journey lies in (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) the itinerary detail. Consider these essentials before you go any further. c e a e e Rinyirru (Lakefield) How long do we need? 5-day ‘Encounter’ NP (CYPAL) a a k A Cape York Peninsula journey involves a Dip your toe into southern Cape York Peninsula. akela ma lot of travel! The time you need to travel the la Route Camp at a ee a a 1,000km from Cairns to The Tip depends Cairns/Mareeba to Central or northern camping areas, upon road conditions, not distances. Day 1 Lakefield ranger base Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
If you only have 5 days, its best to limit Central or northern camping areas, Day 2 Rest and explore your trip to a park in southern Cape York Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Peninsula. If you have longer, say 8 days, Day 3 Lakefield to Old Laura Southern camping areas Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) you could explore southern and central Day 4 Rest and explore Southern camping areas Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) peninsula parks. Explore Laura, return Day 5 You need about 10 days to reach the Cairns/Mareeba Tip of Cape York Peninsula and return ama a comfortably. Any less than that means you will be spending most of your time in your e a Kutini-Payamu NP vehicle, bumping over corrugations on a (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) c e a e long dusty road. e Rinyirru (Lakefield) Perhaps you want to explore the roads 8-day ‘Explorer’ NP (CYPAL)
‘less travelled’ or have a special interest a a k Explore southern and central Cape York Peninsula. akela such as birdwatching? If so, plan a longer ma la trip of 15 days or more. Route Camp at a ee a a Day 1 Cairns/Mareeba to Lakefield Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Use these suggested itineraries to help you start ‘roughing out’ your trip plan. Day 2 Rest and explore Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Day 3 Lakefield to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse Day 4 Coen/Archer River to Lockhart River Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Day 5 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Day 6 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Day 7 Lockhart River to Archer River/Coen Archer River Roadhouse or Coen
Day 8 Archer River/Coen to Mareeba/Cairns
Number plate tree at Bramwell Junction Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld 8 ama a Heathlands RR Jardine River NP
e a Kutini-Payamu NP (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) c e a e 10-day ‘Epic’ e Rinyirru (Lakefield) Journey the length of Cape York Peninsula NP (CYPAL) to its northernmost tip. a a k akela ma la Route Camp at a ee a a Day 1 Cairns/Mareeba to Lakefield Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Day 2 Rest and explore Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Day 3 Lakefield to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse Day 4 Coen/Archer River to Lockhart River Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Day 5 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Day 6 Lockhart River to Heathlands/Jardine Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP Day 7 Rest and explore Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP Day 8 Heathlands/Jardine to The Tip Bamaga, Seisia, Umagico, Loyalty Beach Day 9 The Tip to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse Coen/Archer River to Mareeba/Cairns Hiking at Cape Melville Day 10 Eric Wason © Qld Govt
15-day ‘Expedition’ Use the 10-day itinerary and choose ‘add ons’.
Extra Destination Route Camp at e time ama a e 2–3 Cairns/Mareeba to Cooktown, Cooktown Cooktown or Laura Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP days then onto Rinyirru (Lakefield) a a ll a am ell c Palmer 3–4 Cairns/Mareeba to Palmer Goldfield Palmer Goldfield RR and e Goldfield days and Laura, then onto Lakefield Laura e a Kutini-Payamu NP Oyala Thumotang (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Oyala- NP (CYPAL) 3–4 Coen to Oyala-Thumotang Oyala-Thumotang NP c e a e Thumotang days and return to Coen (CYPAL) e (Rokeby) Cape Melville NP (CYPAL) m a 4–5 Cairns/Mareeba via Cooktown to Cooktown and Errk Cape Melville Rinyirru (Lakefield) days Oykangand NP (CYPAL) Cape Melville and onto Lakefield Cape Melville NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL) Palmer a a Overland Kutini-Payamu to Moreton or a ama Goldfield RR k 3–5 Moreton or Bramwell Telegraph Bramwell Junction, drive the OTT akela days Junction, and along the OTT ma Track (OTT) to Heathlands/Jardine la Kutini-Payamu to Moreton or Moreton or Bramwell a ee a a Captain Billy 2–3 Bramwell Junction and onto Junction, and Captain Billy Landing days Captain Billy Landing Landing (Heathlands RR) OTT Cape Melville 2–3 Heathlands (Eliot Falls) to Jardine Oyala-Thumotang Ussher Point Ussher Point (Jardine NP) PDR to The Tip days (Ussher Point) Cooktown Captain Billy Landing Thursday Ferry to TI; and/or explore NPA Ussher Point Island (TI) attractions such as Pajinka, Bamaga, Seisia, Umagico, Errk Oykangand 2–4 Palmer Goldfield and Northern Lockerbie rainforest, Lake Loyalty Beach or Punsand days Peninsula Wicheura, Somerset ruins, Mutee Bay Area (NPA) Head and Jardine River mouth Errk- Cairns/Mareeba or Normanton to Oykangand 4–5 Kowanyama, Errk-Oykangand NP Errk-Oykangand NP (Alice- days (CYPAL), Pormpuraaw and onto (CYPAL) Mitchell) Musgrave Roadhouse
Sunset at The Tip (left); Lotus lily, Red Lily Lagoon (right) Peter Lik © Tourism and Events Qld (left); © Sarah Jess (right) 9 Birdwatching at Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) © Kerry Trapnell
Top wildlife experiences What do you want to see and do? 1. Spot estuarine crocodiles and freshwater crocodiles in rivers and Once you know how long you have, where you decide to go depends upon waterholes such as Catfish and Old your interests. Are you a ‘birdo’ or keen fisher? Are you seeking escape or Faith waterholes in Rinyirru (Lakefield) adventure? Use these special interest checklists to fine-tune your itinerary. NP (CYPAL). 2. View the giant ‘magnetic’ and 5. Spot Torresian crows, red-winged Great birdwatching ‘cathedral’ termite mounds dotted parrots, rainbow lorikeets, rainbow 1. Watch migratory waders (black-winged across Nifold Plain in Rinyirru bee-eaters, black butcherbirds, pied stilts and sharp-tailed sandpipers) and (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL). imperial-pigeons, palm cockatoos and waterbirds (diving ducks, black-necked 3. Watch agile wallabies and (more the northern race of Australian brush- storks, pelicans and magpie geese) at elusive) northern nail-tailed wallabies turkeys around Eliot Falls camping area Keatings Lagoon CP. on grasslands at Rinyirru (Lakefield) in Heathlands RR. 2. View waterbirds (brolgas, sarus cranes, NP (CYPAL). black-necked storks, magpie geese, 4. Spotlight for green pythons, and comb-crested jacanas and ducks) southern common and common spotted in Catfish Waterhole and Red Lily cuscuses at Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) Lagoon; and watch for star finches and NP (CYPAL). honeyeaters in the grasslands of Nifold 5. Spotlight for spiny knob-tailed geckos Plain in Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL). in woodlands, look for blue tongue and 3. View waterbirds (Pacific black ducks, frilled lizards around the camping area radjah shelducks, royal spoonbills and saw-shelled turtles in the creeks at and sarus cranes) in the waterholes, Elliot Falls, Heathlands RR. Spot Jardine spot palm cockatoos in the canopy River turtles in the Jardine River and above watercourses and see Australian nesting marine turtles on the beach, bustards in the open woodlands of Jardine NP. Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL). 4. Look for eclectus parrots and palm cockatoos in rainforest; watch metallic starlings congregate at Chilli Beach (September to April) and spotlight for Papuan frogmouths and owlet-nightjars in rainforest at Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL).
Green python (above); Eclectus parrot (right); Termite mounds, Nifold Plain, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) (far right) © Jodie Bray (above); © Qld Govt (right); © Tourism and Events Qld (far right)
10 Best ‘nature escapes’ Aboriginal cultural sites 1. Welcome Waterhole camping area, There are many Aboriginal cultural sites Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) scattered throughout the peninsula—it is 2. Day visit to Errk Oykangand NP a living cultural landscape. These sites are (CYPAL); camp outside park near presented (with signs) in national parks. Shelfo Crossing 1. Black Mountain, Black Mountain NP 3. Camp sites in Coen River section, 2. Low Lake, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL) 3. Mount Tozer, Kutini-Payamu (Iron 4. Rainforest camping area, Kutini- Range) NP (CYPAL). Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) Aboriginal cultural tour, Cooktown 5. Ussher Point camping area, Jardine RR. © Tourism and Events Queensland
Other places to learn about First Nations peoples cultures Must-see history sites • Split Rock rock art gallery and Quinkan Regional and Cultural 1. Mining ruins, Palmer Goldfield RR Centre, Laura 2. Old Laura homestead, Rinyirru • Wunthulpu Visitors Centre, Coen (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) • Lockhart River Art Centre, 3. Old Archer crossing, Oyala Thumotang Lockhart River NP (CYPAL) • Gab Titui Cultural Centre, 4. Overland Telegraph Track and Thursday Island linesmen’s hut, Heathlands RR. • Torres Strait Heritage Museum, Horn Island. Don’t miss these historic sites outside our parks • Musgrave Roadhouse (historic fortress telegraph station) and Moreton Telegraph Station Red Lily Lagoon, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) (top); Fishing at Cape Melville NP (above) • Coen Heritage House and Mining Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld (top); Janie White © Qld Govt (above) Museum, Coen (in the historic Mein Telegraph Station) Top spots for fishing • Lockhart River aerodrome and Portland Roads jetty (WWII sites 1. Wet a line where tidal salt water mixes Fruit Bat Falls, Heathlands Resources Reserve and relics) Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld with freshwater at Five Mile Creek, Saltwater Creek and Basin Hole • Historic Somerset Beach settlement, Northern camping areas in Rinyirru (Lakefield) Iconic destinations Peninsula Area. NP (CYPAL). It’s hard to choose but this is our pick of the top five iconic places to visit: 2. Fish from the beach from any of the 1. Black Mountain National Park Bathhurst Bay camping areas, Cape Melville NP (CYPAL). 2. Nifold Plain, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) 3. Drop a line in Horsetailer and Govenors 3. Chilli Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron waterholes in Oyala Thumotang NP Range) NP (CYPAL) (CYPAL). 4. Fruit Bat Falls, Heathlands RR 4. Cast a line from the beach at Chilli 5. The Tip of Cape York Peninsula. Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL). 5. Fish from the beach at Captain Billy Be crocwise Think twice—you’re in croc Landing (north side of camping area), Old Laura homestead, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) country (see page 27). Heathlands RR. Adam Creed © Queensland Government
11 Driving the Overland Telegraph Track © Kerry trapnell
Bypass roads Choose your route Bamaga Road (Northern and Southern Bypass roads) offers an easier route to The Stay on the ‘straight and narrow’, following the Peninsula Tip, avoiding many of the creek and river Developmental Road, or get off the beaten track and take a challenging crossings of the Overland Telegraph Track. 4WD route. Whichever way you go, it will be the adventure of a lifetime.
PDR to the Tip From/To Via Distance (approx. times) Mareeba and Lakeland The Peninsula Developmental Road Cairns to Cooktown 327km (4hr) Downs (PDR) is the main access route into the Cooktown to Laura Lakeland Downs 143km (1hr 45min) peninsula. The road is sealed as far as Cairns to Cooktown Coastal route (Cape 234km (allow 5–6hr to enjoy the Laura; past Laura the road is unsealed but (alternative) Tribulation) scenery) graded, and has roadhouses conveniently Laura to Lakefield ranger base, PDR and Lakefield Road 85km (1.5hr) spaced for fuel, food and rest areas. Your Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) route to The Tip follows the PDR to Archer Lakefield ranger base, North via Lakefield Road 110km (2.5hr) River, then continues on the Telegraph Rinyirru, to Musgrave South via Laura and PDR 224km (3.5hr) Laura to Musgrave Road and Bamaga Road (bypass roads) PDR 139km (2hr) (bypassing Rinyirru) to the Jardine River crossing into the Musgrave to Coen PDR 110km (1.5–2hr) Northern Peninsula Area, and the 99–103km (2.5hr) to Coen River northern most tip of Australia. Coen to Oyala Thumotang NP PDR and Rokeby Road section; and further 47km (1–2hr) (CYPAL) to Archer Bend Coen to Archer River PDR PDR 66km (1hr) (bypassing Oyala Thumotang) The PDR follows the route of the Archer River to ‘3 ways’, 133km (2.5hr); and further 4–6km historic Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) PDR and Portland Roads Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) to rainforest camping areas or Road through central Cape York Peninsula NP (CYPAL) 30km (50min) to Chilli Beach before diverging west to Weipa, 50km ‘3 ways’ Kutini-Payamu Portland Roads Road, 184km (4hr) past Archer River. The Telegraph Road to Moreton PDR and Telegraph Road continues along the OTL route to Archer River to Moreton PDR 123km (2–3hr) Bramwell Junction. (bypassing Kutini-Payamu) Moreton to Bramwell Junction Telegraph Road 42km (45min) Bramwell Junction to Eliot Bamaga Road (Southern 127km (2–3hr) Falls, Heathlands RR Bypass Road) Musgrave Roadhouse Eliot Falls, Heathlands RR to Bamaga Road (Northern 58km (1.5hr) This historic fortress telegraph the Jardine River ferry Bypass Road) station, built in 1887, was part of Jardine River ferry to Bamaga Bamaga Road 42km (45min) the OTL. Today the roadhouse is an Bamaga to The Tip Lockerbie 32km (1hr) important stop for passing travellers, providing fuel, food, accommodation, camping and facilities.
Chilli Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL) © Tourism and Events Qld 12 about 12km from the entrance. the 12km from about is area camping The reserve. the enter and River Palmer the on Crossing Leg Dog to 71km Travel (3hr) Road. Creek Whites onto Carbine Mount of north 67km Highway Mulligan the off turn RR, Goldfield To Palmer reach track. 80km challenging this 6–7hr travel to about takes gear. It recovery and vehicles 4WD high-clearance with drivers four-wheel experienced for is only and country dry rugged through passes Laura and Goldfield Palmer between Road Coach Old The Laura to Goldfield Palmer Coach RoadOld from River. Normanby the over crossing the to due June until closed remain can route This NP (CYPAL). (Lakefield) Rinyirru southern in (1.5hr)73km Laura Old to drive and Road Camp Battle onto turn then Vale Road, Hope on Cooktown of out (30min) 38km Drive River. Normanby the crosses and Falls Isabella passes road unsealed this Goldfield, River Palmer the to Cooktown from route historic the Once Laura to Old Cooktown Road from Camp Battle 4WD routes. challenging these with adventurers, day present to explorers earliest the from before, gone have who many of ruts) (or wheel footsteps the in Follow challenges adventure 4WD fuel stop is Musgrave or Laura. Laura. or is Musgrave stop fuel nearest The quickly. fuel uses road the of sections sandy on range low in driving fuel— adequate gear. Carry recovery with vehicle 4WD ahigh-clearance requires and drivers four-wheel experienced for only is suitable route This (CYPAL). NP Melville Cape remote the via (CYPAL) NP (Lakefield) Rinyirru to Cooktown from route coastal Take challenging the Cooktown from route coastal Melville Cape spot. Remember to be crocwise. be to Remember spot. camping apopular is also bank river nearby The facilities. and camping accommodation, food, fuel, offers River Archer the of bank southern the near stop travellers’ favourite This Roadhouse River Archer requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle vehicle 4WD ahigh-clearance requires and drivers four-wheel experienced for only is suitable route This (CYPAL). NP Range) (Iron Kutini-Payamu from or to Frenchmans Track (6hr) 100km difficult the tackle to decide may you challenge, 4WD atrue for well-prepared are you If TrackFrenchmans PDR. the on continue can journey your where Roadhouse Musgrave to 215km east (3hr) drive Pormpuraaw, From Road. Pormpuraaw Kowanyama– the on Pormpuraaw to (1.5hr) 83km drive here, From crossing. River Alice the to park the 11km through about for continues track The caution. extreme with Drive sharks. and crocodiles estuarine by inhabited water fast-flowing with bar rock abroad River, Mitchell the on Crossing Shelfo at park the enter to Road Kowanyama–Pormpuraaw the on Kowanyama 32km from (30min) Drive park. the to heading before 0459 on 170 982 advice for Corporation Aboriginal Ambung Elgoring Abm the of Secretary the Contact Normanton. from (7hr) 360km or Mareeba from (8hrs) 542km driving Road, Developmental Burke the along Kowanyama to Travel Cape. the of out or into route (western) alternative an as park Cape York western far-flung this Visit (CYPAL) NP Oykangand to Errk Road Kowanyama-Pormpurraw Road. Wakooka via Crossing Kalpowar to Bay Ninian or Bay Bathurst at areas camping the from (3.5–5hr) drive 110km (Lakefield), Rinyirru onto To continue (CYPAL). NP Melville Cape in Bay Ninian or Bay Bathurst at areas camping the to journey your continuing before area recreational ramp boat River Starcke at Take Road. arest Wakooka via Cooktown (up 12hr) to from 220km Drive you’ve made it The Tip! The it made you’ve celebrate— to time It’s Australia. mainland of tip northern-most the is that rock the onto you brings walk short afurther amonument, to abluff over and beach the to leads track awalking park, car the From Tip The Bramwell Junction to Jardine River Junction Bramwell from Track Telegraph (OTT) Overland challenging creek crossings. creek challenging several involves and time driving 3–4hr about takes River Jardine the to Falls Eliot From difficult. more is even OTT the of section 32km northern The time. driving 6–8hr about takes and Road) Bypass (Northern Road Bamaga with junction the to extends OTT the of section southern 80km the Junction, Bramwell From way. the along seen be can line telegraph historic the of Remnants crossing. each near spots camping informal with crossings, creek numerous has maintained, is not track gear. The recovery with vehicle 4WD ahigh-clearance requires and drivers four-wheel experienced for only is suitable route iconic This Telegraph Station. Telegraph Moreton to north 22km afurther drive here, From Road. Telegraph with junction the to 52km difficult the travel and Track Frenchmans onto turn then Road, Roads Portland along 27km drive Kutinti-Payamu in junction ways’ ‘3 the gear. From recovery or snorkels without or trailers, towing or alone, travelling vehicles for recommended is not gear. It recovery with north to the Jardine River. Jardine the to north Bramwell from route OTL the follows (OTT), Track Telegraph Overland the as known track, unmaintained and 1987. in dismantled Today arough was and 1964 until operated which line, telegraph the along located were stations telegraph Fort-like Island. Thursday and Brisbane between link acommunication providing Peninsula, York Cape of tip the with 1887, in completed Laura connected (OTL), Line Telegraph Overland The and track Line Telegraph Overland 13 © Tourism Tropical North Qld Aerial shot of Cooktown © Tourism and Events Qld
Parks around Cooktown Take the time to rest at the gateway to Cape York Peninsula— Feel the excitement build as you begin your journey discovering some Cooktown—where the bitumen of the diverse parks on sealed roads around historic Cooktown. ends and adventure begins. Ranger Craig The imposing boulder pile of Black Access Mountain heralds your proximity to Open all year (but Keatings Lagoon can Cooktown while the rugged rainforest-clad be inaccessible due to flooding between Mount Cook provides a scenic backdrop December and April). to the town. Keatings Lagoon offers a wetland refuge for waterbirds during the dry season. Did you know? The granite boulder-strewn slopes of Black Mountain seem barren but Must Dos large fig trees draw water from deep • Gaze at stunning views over the within the mountain, and rainforest Great Barrier Reef and Northern plants surround its base. Granite is Wet Tropics world heritage areas usually pink-grey but these boulders from near the summit of Mount appear black because of microscopic Cook on the 6km return walk. For lichens and algae growing on a less strenuous walk, stroll 800m exposed surfaces. to the first lookout then return. • Wander along the pleasant Wawu Balgal Bubu Walk, and from a Cooktown—Laura snug bird hide watch waterbirds discovery trails feeding in Keatings Lagoon, A century after Lieutenant Cook repaired especially from May to October. the HMS Endeavour on the river bank, Remember your binoculars and ‘Cooks Town’ was established as a insect repellent. bustling port to service the Palmer River gold rush. Today, Cooktown offers • Feel awed by the mysterious travellers the chance to discover a looming boulders of Black colourful past and connect with local Mountain and the Aboriginal Aboriginal culture. Join one of the legends surrounding these lichen- Aboriginal or historical tours around blackened slopes. There is no Cooktown. Visit Laura’s Split Rock access to the mountain—don’t Aboriginal rock art galleries and Quinkan risk injury by venturing onto the Regional and Cultural Centre, 2hr via boulder field. sealed roads from Cooktown.
14 ea e To Rinyirru a al a k (Lakefield) and Laura
ver Places to go Ri r
C u vo o E a 1 Wawu Balgal Bubu walk— o nde k k t o easy, 1.4km (1hr) return, w n M Keatings Lagoon CP, c Iv See or d inset 5km south of Cooktown River Roa 2 Mount Cook 2 Mount Cook summit track— ea a easy to difficult, 6km (4hr) return, e a a k k a al a k Mount Cook NP, 1 Hannam Street, Cooktown
Mount Barnett er 3 Black Mountain viewing area— Riv n a great boulder views, n M n A u Black Mountain NP, Oak Creek ll y igan H i 25km south of Cooktown. g h
w
a
y Walker Bay a e k a a l k a al a k a e k a a l k Mount Ellen e a a k
r A e T rc v r h d i e e v r Point R R e th n a a n Archer Point n C
n k
A M o u n t A k e m o t s S R m o a ad n k n
a ca H a k Ida Street Walsh Bay
Hope Street To Mulligan Hwy Melaleuca St lack a a al a k Black Mountain Amos Bay M ullig 3 an Highway To Lakeland and Cairns
Scale To Bloomfield 0 5 10km and Cairns
Safety When walking, cover up in protective clothing and remember the insect repellent. Be crocwise Think twice—you’re in croc country (see page 27).
Keatings Lagoon; Mount Cook lookout; Cultural tour (opposite page from top down); Black Mountain (this page). Qld Govt (opposite page top and above); Tourism and Events Qld (opposite page below); Tourism Tropical North Qld (this page)
15 Waterbirds on lagoon, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) Adam Creed © Qld Govt Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park (CYPAL)
Feel like intrepid adventurers as you savour the iconic sights, and To see a croc, keep very quiet, discover hidden treasures and a colourful history in this enormous park your car near the lagoon but not too national park. close (don’t close the door as the noise will scare them off) and walk towards This park is renowned for its large river Access the lagoon, keeping your eyes on the systems—the North Kennedy, Normanby, banks where the crocs often bask. Usually open from 1 June (south of Hann and Morehead rivers—with Ranger Barry Lakefield ranger base) and 1 July (north of spectacular wetlands, floodplains clad Lakefield ranger base). Places to camp in open woodlands, and vast grassland plains dotted with termite mounds and Kalpowar and Hann Crossing Fishing camping areas expanses of unique corypha palms. You can fish in rivers and waterholes Large popular camping areas on river The landscape has important Aboriginal at all camping areas in the park, and in banks at Kalpowar and Hann crossings. cultural significance, containing sites the marine waters of Princess Charlotte Toilets provided. associated with occupation, ceremonies Bay, adjacent to the park. Canoes are not Bush camping and stories of ancestral spirits. This allowed due to the presence of crocodiles. Many secluded bush camping areas near park is jointly managed by the Rinyirru Limit boat speed to prevent bank erosion scenic waterholes and along river banks. (Lakefield) Land Trust and QPWS. and water turbidity. Fishing regulations No facilities. and marine park zoning restrictions apply (see page 27). Make or change camping bookings Must Dos at the self-service kiosk at the Lakefield • Spend a relaxing day fishing for a ranger base. big barra then share it around a campfire at night with friends. Termite mounds of Nifold Plain (left); • Capture a great photo as you Horseshoe Lagoon (below) Maxime Coquard © Tourism and watch the setting sun silhouette Events Qld (left); © John Augusteyn (below) the termite mounds dotted over the grassy Nifold Plain. • Take your binoculars to watch waterbirds feeding in the tranquil early mornings or late afternoons at Sweetwater Lake or Rarda- Ndolphin (Low Lake). • Step back in time to the days of early European exploration and ‘gold fever’, as you explore Old Laura, the original homestead for Laura cattle station, and one of the first on the Cape.
16 N R o i r v m e Princess a
r n
Charlotte Bay b ama ama y a e el lle a al a k a al a k N o r Annie River th K e n
n
Five Mile e
d Creek y Brown
Creek oka Road R ko i Wa Saltwater ver Bizant Crossing River La ke f Basin Bottom Whiphandle Waterhole Nifold ie To Musgrave ld Hole
Roadhouse Plain R Top Whiphandle Waterhole
o
a d d oa 6 Orange Plain Waterhole s R ain Rarda-Ndolphin Pl na ari (Low Lake) M Melaleuca Waterhole 7 Hann Crossing Sweetwater Red Lily Lagoon Lake 5
Hanush’s Waterhole
r e v Old Breeza i
R 2 Homestead Midway Waterhole
d
a e h e r 5 4 Kalpowar Crossing o
M r
e White Lily
v
i Lagoon
R Seven Mile
n Mick Fienn
n ack e a Lakefield Waterhole
H ranger base a al a k ake el Dingo Waterhole a al a k Catfish Waterhole 3 Old Faithful Waterhole
N
o r
m r Kennedy L e a a v n i Bend k R e b
f y y i e R d iv
e ld er Twelve Mile Lagoon n
e e n Peninsula Developmental Roade
K R National park h t New Laura o r ad (CYPAL) o ranger base Welcome N Aboriginal freehold land Waterhole Lake Emma Environmental reserve Kalpowar Recreation Reserve Six Mile Waterhole
To Cooktown Old Laura ad Ro Places to visit Homestead 1 Battle Camp Horseshoe 1 2 Old Laura Homestead and Breeza Lagoon Homestead—historic European sites 3 Catfish Waterhole—great wildlife
watching (turtles and crocs) Scale 0 10 20km 4 Kalpowar discovery walk—easy
4km (1.5hr) return ramble along the To Lakeland Normanby River a a 5 Red and White Lily lagoons— Distances (approx. times) picturesque carpets of pink lotus Old Laura to New Laura 25km (40min) lilies and white water lilies New Laura to Lakefield 6 Rarda-Ndolphin (Low Lake)— 34km (40min) ranger base Safety important spiritual and ceremonial Be alert for snakes place for Traditional Custodians, Lakefield ranger base to 26km (45min) when exploring the park. Wear also great birdwatching Hann Crossing protective clothing and footwear, 7 Sweetwater Lake—excellent Hann Crossing to use lights at night and keep tents 31km (1hr) birdwatching. Saltwater Crossing closed at all times. Be crocwise Did you know? Think twice—you’re in croc Before becoming a national park in 1979, this area comprised the Lakefield and country (see page 27). Laura cattle stations, first established in the late 1870s.
17 Chilli Beach at dawn © Tourism and Events Qld Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park (CYPAL) Unwind and immerse yourself in nature in this exceptional park famed for iconic wildlife, rich in Aboriginal cultural significance and with a unique Severe Tropical Cyclone Trevor made landfall here in mid-March war history. 2019. Damage to the landscape Featuring the rugged heath-clad Tozer Access was extensive—recovery may take Range, lush lowland tropical rainforest (part Usually from July to November. many years. of the largest remnant in Australia) and long sweeping beaches, this park provides Fishing a refuge for wildlife found only in northern You can fish from the beach at Chilli Cape York Peninsula and New Guinea. Beach; fishing regulations and marine park zoning restrictions apply (see The area is rich in Aboriginal cultural page 27). Fishing is not allowed in any significance, with story places, ceremonial freshwater rivers or creeks within the sites and occupation places dotted across national park (CYPAL). the landscape. The park is jointly managed by the Northern Kuuku Ya’u Places to camp Kanthanampu Aboriginal Corporation Land Rainforest, Cooks Hut and Gordon Trust and QPWS. Creek camping areas Shady rainforest camp sites on the Must Dos banks of the Claudie River and Gordon • Find hidden meanings in the heath- Creek. Toilet at Cooks Hut. clad landscape of Mount Tozer Chilli Beach camping area through the Aboriginal story of Kutini Shady and partly-shady camp sites (cassowary). behind beach (some protected by • Let the sea air revive you as you coastal plants; others exposed to wind). wander along the white quartz sands Toilets provided. Popular site—book of wind-swept Chilli Beach, relishing well in advance. the remoteness of this ancient coastline. Make or change camping • Feel the thrill of wildlife-spotting for bookings at the self-service kiosk the ‘big four’—cuscus, green python, at the Iron Range ranger base. eclectus parrot and palm cockatoo— in their lowland rainforest refuge. • Enjoy the evening spectacle of Heath-clad foothills of Mount Tozer metallic starlings flying overhead at (top); Old Coen track (right); Chilli Beach (September to April). Chilli Beach starlings (opposite page). © Tourism and Events Qld (top); © John Augusteyn; (right and opposite page) 18 r e Pascoe Riv
Weymouth Bay Coral Sea
Rocky Island Scale Portland Roads 0 5 10km Cape Weymouth a am a al k la a e a al a k a al a k
Chilli Beach
3 3 4
k Cooks Hut e Albatross Bay e r
C
y S C Cape Griffith To Telegraph Road b crubby k b u r Rainforest c e c ma S ack 2 Gordon Creek G ordon Ck l e nd R 2 Portla oads ack Rd W es Places to visit t To PDR Cla u d Mount Tozer lookout—scenic 1 i e River 1 heathland views Mount Tozer 3 a c lookout Mount Tozer Iron Range 2 Old Coen track—moderately ranger base difficult 10km (5hr) return walk through rainforest, with excellent Lock ha birdwatching. Arrange a vehicle r t Line Hill R pick-up at the end of the track, iv er on Portland Roads Road. Road
r Lockhart
e C Chilli Beach forest walk—easy
v Lockhart River i River Airport
la 3 R u
d Community 720m (10min) return walk behind
e ie
o R
c the beach i s v
a e r P 4 Chilli Beach walk—for views of Restoration Island, where Captain Bligh landed after being cast adrift from his ship, the HMS Bounty, in 1789.
Lloyd Bay
Safety Did you know? Take care if driving on the The Iron Range airbase was constructed in 1942. American 90th Bomb Group, known beach near creek mouths and as the ‘Jolly Rogers’, described it as the worst airfield they were ever posted at between the tides where quicksand can develop. during the war. Difficult conditions were made worse during the monsoonal rains and possibly contributed to several military aircraft crashes in the area. ‘The strips were Be crocwise a disaster… muddy and flooded most of the time.’ Think twice—you’re in croc country (see page 27). W. Rollins, 197th Coast Artillery (AA) Regiment.
Distances ‘3 ways’ junction to Iron Range 2.5km via Lockhart River Road ranger base ‘3 ways’ to Lockhart River community 11km via Lockhart River Road 3.9km (Rainforest), 4.8km (Cooks Hut), ‘3 ways’ to rainforest camping areas 5.5km (Gordon Creek) via Portland Roads Rd 23km via Portland Roads Rd to Chilli Beach ‘3 ways’ to Chilli Beach camping area turnoff then 6km to the camping area Chilli Beach turnoff to Portland Roads 6km via Portland Roads Road township 19 Eliot Falls, Heathlands Resources Reserve Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld Heathlands Resources Reserve, Jardine River National Park and Resources Reserve
Be astonished by the sudden abundance of fresh water, soak up the Take up the challenge of driving the beauty of the heath-clad landscape, and delve into the area’s colourful Overland Telegraph Track, if you are well- history in our northern-most parks. prepared. You can avoid the deep crossing at Scrubby Creek by taking Bamaga Road These parks are a vast remote The area is a living cultural landscape, (Northern Bypass) into Eliot Falls. wilderness in an ancient sandstone containing story-places and story- Ranger Stuart landscape, dominated by the mighty beings, and occupation and ceremony Jardine River with its many small sites. The parks are managed by QPWS, Places to camp streams and swamps. Dry heaths, in collaboration with the Aboriginal Captain Billy Landing camping area coastal heaths, grasslands, rainforest Traditional Owners from the Atambaya, Camp sites beside the beach. Toilet provided. and woodlands are home to diverse Angkamuthi, Yadhaykenu, Gudang and wildlife, including some found Wuthathi language and social groups. Eliot Falls camping area nowhere else. Spacious camp sites in woodland between Access Canal and Eliot creeks. Toilets provided. Usually from June to November. Must Dos Popular site—book well in advance. • Wash away dust in crystal- Fishing North and South Jardine River clear waters at Twin Falls at Fish in the Jardine River, except for the camping areas Eliot Falls camping area, a section of the river (and its tributaries) Sandy sites on the banks of the Jardine River. surprising oasis in a vast open from the old vehicle crossing (on the No facilities. savannah. Overland Telegraph Track) to a point 5km Ussher Point camping area • Discover fascinating plant life— upstream. You can also fish from the sundews and pitcher plants Camp sites close to beach and cliffs. beaches in marine waters adjacent to the on creek edges, banksias No facilities. parks and reserve. Fishing regulations and and grevilleas in dry heath, marine park zoning restrictions apply (see Make or change camping bookings towering cypress, and sedge page 27). Fishing is not permitted in Eliot at the self-service kiosk at the Heathlands swamps in low-lying areas. Creek. ranger base (before you arrive at Eliot Falls). • Camp beneath clear starry skies and feel connection with the ‘sandbeach people’ who Did you know? lived here for thousands of Early European explorers called this years and knew Eliot Falls as area the ‘wet desert’ because it had ‘Yaranjangu’, a story place. abundant freshwater but lacked food for horses and cattle. Tiny carnivorous sundew © Queensland Government 20 Cape York (The Tip) e la a al a k Albany Island Somerset Places to visit Seisia Coral Sea Captain Billy Landing— Umagico 1 remote coastline featuring sea caves Injinoo ama a and white sand beaches
J a rd Bamaga airport ine Fruit Bat Falls— R Bamaga Road 2 iv e easy 500m (10min) return stroll on a Jardine River r a e e ferry crossing e ce boardwalk, with swimming access Escape e e e River North Jardine Twin Falls and Eliot Falls— River camping area 3 No river easy 550m (15min) return walk, with crossing between South Jardine River camping areas O camping area Ussher Point T swimming access at Twin Falls T E l io Nolans Brook t ( Bypass Road n C — r ‘The Saucepan’ o
( e a e e 4 N r
t e o h B k a al a k r e easy 670m (15min) return walk to t a h r e m n
) Orford Ness r a n Eliot Creek, with swimming access. g B a 3 4 y R p a o s a Eliot Falls s d False
R
o Orford Ness a Safety d ) J 2 a At Eliot Falls, water rd in Northern Bypass Road/ e levels can rise rapidly and Fruit Bat Falls M R OTT junction c iv H e e r there may be slippery rocks Ba n m r O a y Southern Bypass Road/ (S g R and submerged objects. T a Captain Billy ou i T v OTT junction th R e o r Landing ( e a s r d o n C Be crocwise u B o y 1 t p c h a k e s a s Think twice—you’re t r d oo n Coc R ) k R C a o r t a s in croc country (see page 27). e o d e d) s C a k re a nshot Cre ek o p u ek R y G B ek a e g n r ea la r a
C e m
h
t e ce e e e a Shelbourne Bay ie B u ert o B S y River Heathlands ( nt Scale lhu ranger base To Bramwell Double Du 0 20 40km Junction (Etatapuma) Point
Twin Falls (right); Captain Billy Landing (far right) Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld (right); © Qld Govt (far right)
Distances (approx. times) 56km via Bamaga Rd (Southern Bypass Rd) to turn off, then 13km west on Ranger Bramwell Junction to Heathlands ranger base base track Bramwell Junction to Captain Billy Landing 93km (2.5hr) via Bamaga Road (Southern Bypass Road) and Captain Billy Landing track 27m along Captain Billy Landing track, then 53km (2hr) along Bamaga Road Captain Billy Landing to Fruit Bat Falls sign (Southern Bypass Road) Heathlands ranger base to Fruit Bat Falls sign 13km on Ranger base track, then 64km along Bamaga Road (Southern Bypass Road) 14km north via Bamaga Road to Mistake Creek track turnoff, then 14km to Eliot Falls Fruit Bat Falls sign to Elliot Falls camping area OR 8km via OTT (with deep crossing on Scrubby Creek) Eliot Falls to South Jardine River camping area 32km (3–4hr) north via the OTT Bamaga Road (Northern Bypass Road)/OTT 50km via Bamaga Road to ferry crossing, then further 11km junction to North Jardine River camping area 50km via Bamaga Road to ferry crossing, further 18km north on Bamaga Road, then Bamaga Road (Northern Bypass Road)/OTT 60km east to the coast. Travel time (4–5hr). This track is suitable only for experienced junction to Ussher Point camping area four-wheel drivers and requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle with recovery gear. Camper trailers are not recommended. 21 Palmer goldfield ruins Nick Smith© Qld Govt Palmer Goldfield Resources Reserve
Discover fascinating relics of North Queensland’s biggest gold rush, To Laura reminders of the region’s prosperous and colourful history. R. L. Jack
memorial k
e
e Old mines, rusting machinery and traces r C
Folders g Must Dos of the once-thriving Maytown township, n
ri Hotel site O Sp Scale
dating from the Palmer River gold rush of l 0 5km • Step into an exciting d
1873, are scattered across this landscape. M past when fortunes C a rad y le t were won and lost as Today the reserve is managed to protect C o ' w reek o l n
d
−
c
you explore the mine the area’s rich cultural heritage. L
o
a alme l el
a u
ruins. c ssop r e ce e e e Je h a
Access ek r R Cre o • Wander around the a o Usually from April to November. d a ' d Chinese cemetery r e and Maytown ruins to Jessop camp iv Places to camp er R lm a imagine life as it was P Remote camping area on the southern h German Bar rt here 130 years ago. o bank of North Palmer River. No facilities. North town site N Palmer River • Swap yarns around camping area Chinese cemetery the campfire about Chinese alluvial workings the hardships endured Did you know? Louisa Mine ruins by the diggers on the The ‘old coach road’ to Laura was Mabel Louise King of the Ranges Mine workings the route to the port of Cooktown. Palmer River. Comet Mine ruins Ida Mine ruins a iver R er lm Charcoal Pa To Chillagoe burners Queen of the via Palmerville North Mine and township ruins Dog Leg Crossing P a lm er ville Ro ad Mining relics To PDR © Qld Govt
Safety When exploring, stay on signed tracks marked on the map and don’t venture into mining leases. Beware of previously mined areas, as open and collapsed shafts are common.
22 Shelfo Crossing on the Mitchell River Eric Wason © Qld Govt Errk Oykangand National Park (CYPAL)
Journey into western Cape York Peninsula to experience the ‘Gulf To Laura Did you know? R. L. Jack country’, and discover a landscape of incredible contrasts. The hard dry cracked ground of memorial k
e
e r Bounded by two mighty rivers, the Alice the savannah becomes an inland C Access
Folders g in and Mitchell, this savannah landscape is sea in the wet season.
r Usually from August/September to October. Hotel site O Sp Scale
l 0 5km d inundated with nutrient-rich floodwaters
Before you set out, contact the Secretary
M
C a during the wet season, as rivers spill over rad y of the Abm Elgoring Ambung Aboriginal le t C o ' w reek o their banks. The park is jointly managed Safety l n d Corporation on 0459 982 170 for advice.
−
c
L Ensure you are well o
a alme l el by the Errk Oykangand National Park Land
a u c ssop r e ce e e e prepared and self-sufficient with Je h a Trust and QPWS. ek r R Places to camp Cre o a o adequate food, water, fuel and d a ' d Camp outside the park in the campground r basic vehicle repair equipment. e Jessop camp iv Must Dos near Shelfo Crossing. Bookings are essential. er R lm Be crocwise a Contact the Secretary of the Abm Elgoring P • Picnic on the banks of the h German Bar rt Think twice—you’re o Ambung Aboriginal Corporation on 0459 982 North town site N Mitchell River near Shelfo Palmer River in croc country (see page 27). camping area Chinese cemetery Crossing and spot a surprising 170. Camping is not permitted inside the park. Chinese alluvial workings variety of birdlife. Louisa Mine ruins • Find out about this park’s To Kowanyama To Pormpuraaw Mabel Louise King of the Ranges Mine workings traditional significance for the Uw Comet Mine ruins Oykangand people (‘people of the Shelfo Ida Mine ruins outside waterholes’). Crossing Alice River crossing a Shelfo Crossing iver • Watch for emus, Australian campground R er Alice lm Rive Charcoal Pa bustards and eastern grey r To Chillagoe burners Queen of the kangaroos in the open via Palmerville North Mine and township ruins savannah country. Dog Leg Crossing P a l k ka a me rvil Scale le R a al a k oa 0 d 5 10km To PDR
M it c h e l l
R
i v e
r
Alice River near the crossing. Eric Wason © Qld Govt
23 Cape Melville boulders Adam Creed © Qld Govt Cape Melville National Park (CYPAL)
Tackle corrugations, washouts and tidal creeks to reach this rugged Places to camp remote park, with a spectacularly diverse landscape. Bathurst Bay & Ninian Bay Massive tumbled boulders of Melville Access camping areas Extremely remote camping areas behind Range, sandstone escarpments of Usually August to November. Suitable beach, bounded by tidal creeks or Altanmoui Range and a high diversity of only for high-clearance 4WD vehicles mangroves. No facilities. plants and animals characterise this park, and experienced drivers; not suitable for which is jointly managed by the Cape trailers, caravans or campervans. Bathurst Heads (outside of the NP) Melville, Flinders and Howick Islands Campground on nearby Kalpowar Wakooka Outstation to Bathurst Bay and Aboriginal Corporation and QPWS. Aboriginal Land, managed by Ninian Bay camping areas: 40km (2.5–3hr). Alka Bawar (Kalpowar) Aboriginal Must Dos Fishing Corporation. No facilities. Book and pay online at • Feel the adrenaline of a true You can fish from the beach, and in all the bathurstheadscamping.com.au. 4WD challenge to reach this creeks and rivers in this park. Fisheries far-flung park! regulations and marine park zoning • Throw a line in from the beach restrictions apply (see page 27). to catch dinner then enjoy a stunning sunset on the sands at Cape Melville, cool drink in hand. Bathurst Bay camping areas Cape (Crocodile, Wongai, Oystercatcher • Walk up to the Mahina monument l e Melville and Granite camping areas) a al a k (near Granite camping area) and Scale take a moment to contemplate the Bathurst Melville Range 0 10 20km Bathurst Bay many lives lost during Cyclone Head Mahina in 1899. Ninian Bay Barrow Point e e National park Ninian Bay (CYPAL) camping area Aboriginal Safety Bathurst Heads a e el lle freehold land campground a al a k Environmental Travel with another vehicle, reserve and be self-sufficient in food, water Recreation reserve and fuel, vehicle spare parts and Wakooka Outstation Altanmoui Range Red recovery equipment. Reliable ad Point a Ro communications are essential and kook Wa Murdoch Point personal locator beacons (PLBs) ak ka al Jones Gap are recommended. r a e al a iv R
Be crocwise al ie nn Hummock a Think twice—you’re in a e Beach J croc country (see page 27). To Rinyirru/Lakefield To Cooktown
24 Lookout Point l al a al a ack e J ake el ac S a cke k R a al a k Cape iv a al a k Flattery er
ake el e a al a k a al a k
No rma nb y R i ve el r a al a k
Road mp Ca ttle e ale Ba Paperbarks along Coen River Adam Creed © Qld Govt Oyala Thumotang National Park (CYPAL)
Venture westwards to this sprawling park where the Archer and Coen Places to camp rivers meet, and feel immersed in a vast and isolated landscape. Coen River and Archer Bend sections Secluded remote bush camp sites beside Eucalypt woodlands and melaleuca Access waterholes, lagoons and rivers. swamps stretch from the McIlwraith Usually July to November. No facilities. Range foothills to the junction of Park entrance to Coen River and Langi the Archer and Coen rivers. This sections: 74–78km (2hr); park entrance to Safety park is a living cultural landscape Archer Bend section: 125km (3–4hr). Ensure you are well prepared and is jointly managed by the Oyala and self-sufficient with adequate Thumotang Land Trust and QPWS. Fishing food, water, fuel and basic vehicle Fish in all creeks and rivers in the park except repair equipment. Peach Creek (east of the PDR). Governors Must Dos and Horsetailer waterholes have boat access Be crocwise Think twice—you’re in • Discover river banks for hand-launching small boats. Fishing croc country (see page 27). fringed with rainforest and regulations apply (see page 27). paperbarks, and lily-clad lagoons, such as Pandanus
Lagoon, fenced to exclude Old Archer feral pigs. Crossing reek Geikie C Langi • Spot the iconic palm Horsetailer Lagoon Waterhole 10 Mile Archer River cockatoo perched in forest A Junction Roadhouse rc Govenors her River along the river banks and Waterhole P watch waterbirds on the Night Paddock Twin e n Lagoon Lagoons in lagoons. Archer s Jerry u Bend la Coen River Lagoon D • Explore the far western (and section Pandanus e
section e v e
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e 25 Creek crossing © Kerry Trapnell
Journey with confidence What are CYPAL parks? Most national parks on the peninsula damaged or diseased fruit and vegetables. Be informed are now called ‘national park (CYPAL)’ For details visit daf.qld.gov.au. Alcohol restrictions and some have new names. A new Many communities on the Cape have Ferry services class of protected area has been restrictions on carrying/possessing For the Jardine River ferry, contact the created for Cape York Peninsula in alcohol. For more information, visit Northern Peninsula Area Regional Council recognition of important Aboriginal tourismcapeyork.com/know. on 07 4069 1369. Ferry hours are 8am– cultural values—‘national park (Cape 5pm. Fees apply. York Peninsula Aboriginal land)’. This Rubbish disposal change allows national parks (and Cape York Peninsula is remote and you For Thursday Island (TI) ferry, contact other lands) to become Aboriginal will not find bins in national parks or in Peddles TI Tours on 07 4069 1551. land that is jointly-managed as a council areas. It is your responsibility to Fees apply. national park (CYPAL). Most national pack, carry and dispose appropriately parks on Cape York Peninsula are now the rubbish you bring with you. There Be safe jointly managed by the Aboriginal are waste disposal facilities (cages) at Care on the road Traditional Owners, represented by a Coen, Archer River and Moreton, and Local road conditions vary so be prepared land trust or corporation, and QPWS. waste stations at Cooktown, Lakeland, for constantly-changing road surfaces. The name changes recognise the Laura and Portland Roads. Visit North Expect corrugations, wheel ruts, deep parks’ cultural values. Queensland Councils’ lawmac.org.au sand, bulldust, rough and rocky sections, for an interactive map of waste disposal slippery gravel and wet surfaces. facilities. • Slow down when visibility is obscured Road conditions by dust and avoid travelling in the dust Road conditions vary dramatically Black water disposal raised by another vehicle. throughout the season, and can change If you are travelling with a portable toilet, rapidly, depending upon weather • Watch out for animals (wildlife and dispose of toilet waste at the black water conditions. stock) and oncoming vehicles. Move to dump points in Cooktown, Coen, Weipa the left and slow down or stop when a • To check up-to-date road conditions, visit and Seisia. vehicle approaches. cook.qld.gov.au/current-road-status Using generators • Avoid taking risks at flooded crossings. • The Department of Transport and Main In some parks, you can use generators Remember—if it’s flooded, forget it. Roads website is also useful. Visit that operate at a noise level less than • Consider operating hours of qldtraffic.qld.gov.au or phone 13 19 40. 65dB(A) when measured at a distance of roadhouses, shops and ferries and plan 7m from the generator (see page 2). your stops in advance. Fill your fuel When booking your camp site, remember tanks at every opportunity—driving on to check if generators are permitted rough roads in low gear uses more fuel in your selected camping area and if than normal driving conditions. operating times are specified. • If you break down, always stay with your vehicle until help arrives. Quarantine • Travel with another vehicle where The Quarantine Inspection Station at Coen possible and make sure someone else will inspect all south-bound traffic for knows your itinerary. 26 Be responsible Fishing Fishing regulations apply to all fishing
and collecting in national and marine Thanks for helping us parks. For details visit Fisheries look after our parks. Queensland at fisheries.qld.gov.au. Cape York Peninsula QPWS All waters adjacent to coastal national Rangers and CYPAL Rangers parks are protected within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and the Great Barrier Reef Coast Marine Park. For marine park zoning maps and fishing information QPWS and Rinyirru CYPAL rangers visit the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Maxime Coquard © Qld Govt Authority at gbrmpa.qld.gov.au.
Caring for parks • Avoid disturbing animals and plants. • Leave your pets at home. • Don’t feed wildlife or leave food or scraps around camp sites or day-use areas. • Light campfires responsibly in existing fire rings. • Avoid the spread of weeds by checking clothing and equipment regularly for seeds. Use the vehicle wash-down facilities at Lakeland Downs. • Pack and carry your rubbish for dumping at waste disposal sites. • Don’t use chainsaws, firearms or quad bikes. Be crocwise • Don’t place rubbish or contents of Think twice—Cape York Peninsula is crocodile country chemical toilet tanks in the toilets. • Camp only in the sites provided. • Expect crocodiles in ALL north • Leave the lure—people have Queensland waterways, even if been attacked while recovering a • Minimise your use of soaps and there is no warning sign. fishing lure. detergents. • Just because you can’t see a • Bin your food and fish scraps— • Where toilets are not provided, use a crocodile doesn’t mean there is don’t leave food, fish scraps trowel to bury human waste and toilet not one close by. or bait near the water, around paper at least 15cm deep and 100m • Crocs can lunge from the water’s your camp site or at a boat away from camp sites, tracks and edge—they are ambush predators ramp. Crocs are attracted by an watercourses. and you may not see them. Stand easy meal. back from the water when fishing • Don’t be the bait. Keep your arms Emergencies or cast netting. Wash dishes and and legs inside your boat at all Dial 000 (Triple Zero) with prepare food well away from the times when fishing. a digital or satellite mobile phone. water’s edge. • Your boat is your barrier. Keep • Camp at least 2m above the high the boat between yourself and water mark and at least 50m from the water when launching or the water’s edge. Crocodiles have retrieving it. attacked people in tents pitched Drive with care. too close to the water. Estuarine crocodile in waterhole Maxime Coquard Adam Creed © Qld Govt © Tourism and Events Qld
27 Further information qld.gov.au/NationalParks
qld.gov.au/Camping qld.gov.au/ParkAlerts (access, closures and conditions) 13 QGOV (13 74 68)
qldnationalparks Scan to check @QldParks; #QldParks park alerts
This brochure is also available online at qld.gov.au/ParkBrochures
Cape Melville National Park (CYPAL) Adam Creed © Queensland Government ©State of Queensland 2020. Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, Department of Environment and Science. BP1932 January 2020, accurate at the time of printing. Printed on eco-friendly paper to save energy and resources.