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Home , Eurasian wolf

by ALAN E. SPARKS

A captive Eurasian near Zarnesti, . Promberger C & B

8 Spring 2011 www.wolf.org itting on rigid benches in the logy of , bears and lynx from attack. There were no serious injuries stark, cold classroom, bundled 1993 until 2003 to help conserve the to humans. in winter coats and hats, the unique natural heritage of the region. At their presentation the students of S small group of sixth graders She has commissioned the students to Pestera report their results to a rather listens attentively as Simona Buretea investigate stories going around the boisterous and skeptical audience: describes ways to publicize the presen- village about wolf attacks on people. none of the wolf-attack stories could tation they will give to the village next No computer or Internet is available to be verified. Historically, however, there week. The meager heat from a wood aid this task—the children must query are significantly more official reports stove is lost in the immensity of the their relatives and friends, discovering of wolf attacks in Eurasia than in North large, whitewashed classroom. Hanging who told whom what, trying to trace America, possibly due to millennia of crookedly on the wall is a tattered map the stories back to the sources. wolves being habituated to the prox- of the world, depicting nations that The 27,000 square miles of forest imity of humans—including the scav- haven’t existed for half a century. carpeting the enging of human corpses left Through the tall windows, which of Romania, which cradle the Transyl- during frequent wars. But some rattle and sing as gusts of wind seek vania plateau like a giant arm, contain researchers believe most cases involved entry through the loose fittings and the most significant populations of rabid or captive wolves, or wolves cracked panes, can be seen the spec- large carnivores in all of west of defending themselves. tacular panoramic view that graces this Russia. Around 2,500 wolves live in The wolves of Romania are “Eur- small Transylvanian mountain village Romania (over 15 percent of Europe’s asian wolves,” lupus lupus, a of Pestera. Farmhouses are scattered wolf population, excluding Russia), subspecies which prior to the 20th on rolling hillsides or perched pre- and about 5,000 European brown century ranged over most of the vast cariously along the spines of ridges, bears and 1,800 Eurasian lynx live super-continent—from Western Eur- seeming to hang in the thin, invisible there as well, even though, with 22 ope and Scandinavia eastward air that blows cold from the snow- million people residing in a little more through Russia, , southern capped peaks beyond. As the students than the same area, Romania is about Siberia, Mongolia, the northern walk to school, which is an hour-and- four times more densely populated Himalayas and China—but now a-half journey for some, their hearts than Minnesota. reduced in extent due to human quicken from more than just the exer- It is commonly believed in Romania persecution and loss of habitat, espe- tion and the beauty of the scenery…for that wolves are dangerous to humans. cially in the West. The Eurasian wolf they hear stories. The fear is rooted in wolf-attack stories is believed to descend from canids that It is a thawing spring day in 2003. that circulate until they become un- migrated from the North American Simona is the public awareness officer verifiable folklore. An investigation of continent across the Bering Strait when for the Carpathian Large Carnivore 41 such stories in the last half century it was land or ice, possibly in multiple Project (CLCP), a non-governmental confirmed eight were based on factual waves beginning at least two million organization that conducted research events, but in every case the wolf was years ago. After evolving into wolves, in Romania on the behavior and eco- either rabid or injured, or trapped or some migrated back to North America, cornered and defending itself from possibly also in multiple waves. Like elsewhere, wolves in Romania help maintain the diverse composition and dynamics of the ecosystem. But also like elsewhere the long-term prospects for large predators depend on human values.

Clouds enshroud Carpathian Mountain peaks near the . Sparks village of Poienile de Sub Munte E lan

in the Maramures region of A northern Romania.

International Wolf Spring 2011 9 The wolf ’s ancestry The modern gray wolf subspecies of northern and central North America probably descend from a relatively recent wave, as gray and Eurasian wolves are more closely related to each other than to smaller wolves inhabiting the southern fringes of wolf range on each continent. As in North America, the average size of wolves in Eurasia varies geographically, generally increas- ing toward the north. The Romanian wolf is of intermediate size, most adults weighing between 75 to 130 lbs (34 to 60 kg). Average pack size (around five) and territory sizes (between 80 and 300 sq km; 50 to 186 miles) tend to be smaller than typical of most wolf populations in northwestern North America. After World War II nearly 5,000 wolves lived in Romania, ranging over most of the country. depredation was excessive, so the Com- munist government sought to reduce predators via hunting and trapping and the use of poisons and bounties. By 1967 the wolf population had rooks B fallen to about 1,550—although, like ob R in America, jackals began Eurasian Lynx to invade lowland areas where wolves had been eradicated. Then the new dictator, Nicolae Ceausescu, an avid bear hunter, instituted rigorous mea- The 27,000 square miles of forest sures aimed at promoting his quarry, including banning poisons and fire- carpeting the Carpathian Mountains arms and protecting habitat. Wolves and their wild prey bene- fited, and their numbers began to of Romania, which cradle the rebound. When the Communist regime fell in 1989 the protections ceased, and Transylvania plateau like a giant arm, the large predators soon faced the same pressures that had decimated their contain the most significant populations numbers in most of the rest of Europe. Conforming to European biodiversity and conservation goals, Romania of large carnivores in all of Europe restored protection to wolves in 1996, although limited hunting is allowed, west of Russia. and enforcement is problematic. Today the carnivores of Romania are relatively tolerated despite Roma- nia’s being a developing country (average per capita net earnings about $3,300 per year in 2008; lower in rural . Sparks

E areas) with an economy significantly

lan dependent on livestock. Agriculture A

10 Spring 2011 www.wolf.org accounts for about 12 percent of the Romania. Wolves and bears take about dogs and small such as hares economy, employs about 30 percent of 1.2 percent of the 5 million sheep that and rodents, the primary diet of most the labor force and in the Carpathians graze the mountain during wolves most of the time in Romania still sets the rhythm for an ancient late spring and summer. This loss is a consists of the three wild way of life. Rolling slowly along the significant burden to people so depen- species: (Capreolus capreolus), country roads are horse-drawn carts dent on livestock (compensation is not red deer (Cervus elaphus) and carrying towering loads of hay or provided). Antipathy toward wolves (Sus scrofa). There is no evidence bundles of sticks for firewood, or results, but a campaign to eradicate suggesting wolves in Romania are groups of peasants to work the fields. every last wolf never occurred in limiting wild at depressed Cows, horses, goats and sheep are still Romania. Wolves that attack livestock levels (although recent heavy poaching herded through the main streets of may be legally killed if evidence is may be); nevertheless, wolves can be villages and towns, frustrating the provided, and some are illegally shot, perceived as competing with human drivers of cars rushing to meet their snared or poisoned. However, the hunting (a source of much needed appointments in the hectic pace of the primary defense against predators is foreign revenue). “new economy,” which is just begin- the use of large, aggressive shepherd ning to challenge the ancient rhythms. dogs. Portable electric fences have also Managing wolves But whether marching to old been shown to be very effective, Romania is divided into over 2,200 rhythms or new, it is the attitudes although they are beyond the means game areas managed to maintain formed over centuries of coexistence of most shepherds. game populations at levels determined and conflict with livestock that still While wolves will prey on vulner- according to environmental and social dominate the feelings about wolves in able livestock, and occasionally on conditions. Hunting quotas are set

A captive male wolf keeps a wary eye on approaching human visitors near Zarnesti, Romania. eiprecht L Steffen

International Wolf Spring 2011 11 per area, and when predation of wild animals. Nevertheless, while there has leading to increased development of ungulates or livestock is considered been a modest decline recently (prob- infrastructure, roads and summer too high, wolves are also targeted. Yet ably due to increases in livestock and homes. managers do allow significant numbers poaching of wild ungulates), the wolf In southeast Transylvania lies the of wolves in the areas, consistent with population has been relatively stable ex-factory town of Zarnesti, which is at national conservation goals, and many over the past dozen years, and it is the center of recent efforts to realize hunters in Romania accept this, both the destruction of suitable habitat that economic benefits from the presence because they value predators as game is the greatest threat now facing wolves of wolves and other wildlife. To tap the and because they believe predation in Romania. lucrative ecotourism market, a tour- improves the health and trophy quality For suchFINLAND a densely populated guide training program and businesses of other game species. country, the amount of undeveloped such as guesthouses, horseback riding Like elsewhere, wolves in Romania land is remarkable. People primarily and mountain-bike rentals have been help maintain the diverse composition dwell in cities, towns and villages, and established. While a small beginning, and dynamics of the ecosystem. But suburban sprawl is rare. The forests, the local revenue generated by tourists

alsoNORWAY like elsewhere the long-term however, are permeated by access attracted to the region’s natural heri-

prospects forSWEDEN large predators depend roads for logging, hunting and live- tage—and especially the elusive large on human values. Viable wolf range stock, and many wolves live close to carnivores—already exceeds the costs

in Romania is essentially saturated. humans. In the late 1990s a radio- of depredation and livestock protec- Around 30 percent of wolf mortality is collared wolf ranging the forests tion. Consequently, local attitudes caused by intraspecific strife, about adjacent to the large city of Brasov toward wolves have turned more posi- 300 wolves a year are legally shot was discoveredLATVIA routinely entering the tive. However, as long as people bearing (the total hunting/lethal-control quota city at night with her pack to raid the costs aren’t RUSSIAalways the ones real- for 2009-10 was 466), an unknown a trash dump for food, most people izing benefits, controversy will remain number poached, and there have neverLITHUANIA aware of their presence. Since about the merits of this equation. been proposals to allow landowners to opening to the West, the natural The case of the real Transylvanian kill wolves regardless of whether they beauty of the Romanian Carpathians wolves, as opposed to those so hor- are actively depredating on domestic is attracting new residents and tourists, rifically depicted in mythic images, demonstrates an ancient, yet evolving, coexistence between people and wolves POLAND even under difficult economic circum- stances rife with potential conflict. CZ. REP. While the presence of wolves in Romania presents challenges, economic benefits are being realized and conflicts resolved through increased under- standing of wolf behavior and aware- MOLDOVA ness of the needs of the people who share the remarkable landscape. n Romania © 2010 Alan E. Sparks has lived and Pestera travelled extensively in Central and Zarnesti CROATIA Brasov , writing, teaching English, and working on wildlife research and ecotourism projects; he is the author BOSNIA and Bucharest of Dreaming of Wolves: Adventures in the HERZEGOVINA Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania.

SERBIA and MONTENEGRO Black Sea

MACEDONIA ITALY GREECE

TURKEY SYRIA

12 Spring 2011 www.wolf.org