Fashion. Beauty. Business. FANTASY FOOTBALLS JAN 2016 Designers create fashion No. 2 footballs to mark the Super Bowl’s 50th. Features, p. 52 BOARDROOM FAMOUS The new celebrity/ entrepreneur looks to turn high–profile into high profit. Features, p. 48 PASSING ICONS Fashion loses two creative forces, André Courrèges and David Bowie. p. 28, p. 62 Milan’s Next Andrea Pompilio, Massimo Giorgetti, Damir Doma and Andrea Incontri represent the next crop of designers Wave bringing a new energy to Milan.

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Maxine Wally GOLDSCHMIED ADRIANO AG PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman Boardroom Fantasy Footballs PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin 52 The NFL and CFDA WWD.COM Famous SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer 48 Celebrities are trying team up on 50 bespoke DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond SPRING 2016 balls for the golden WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton theirtk Caption hand Rate nisque at business, et eserae SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar AGJEANS.COM INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci plitatem quuntion pe voluptae moving from Hollywood anniversary of the PUBLIC RELATIONS senimus doloribus a natem renimet PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni towardfugiati squam, Wall ipsus Street. si sum quia Super Bowl. League the National Football of courtesy Photograph Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel Fashion chameleon David Bowie’s style was never REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren stagnant; he was the king of androgyny but could +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 also rock a classic pinstripe suit. ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 Remember, page 62 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal Agenda DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Milan’s Next Wave 13 Captain Courrèges 28 Wal-Mart’s Climb 32 ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Designer Inspirations…Business A look at the jet-set style of André As the retailer struggles to keep PRODUCTION outlook in Italy . . . Trends Courrèges, who died Jan. 7. up with the digital evolution, PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley from London. PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao competitors pick their battles. SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Luxury Makeover 36 Model Call 36 Berlin Preview 42 FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson John Barrett and Jim Hedges are Jeff Ryan shares his experience on Tailored to Fit: A more out to reinvent the high-end salon being cast for “Orange is the New individualized approach is taking business and turn Barrett into an Black,” his love of coffee hold in German fashion and retail

international luxe brand. and more. circles . . . Ones To Watch. WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske DEPARTMENTS CHAIRMAN & CEO VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar 8 Social Studies 60 Fourth Down STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS The best and worst in social media, what’s Carolina Panthers QB Cam Newton’s almost- SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT trending, whom to follow. perfect season matches his almost-perfect style. GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES 10 The Essentialist 64 They Are Wearing VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar A digest of the week’s top stories. The streets of London are the ultimate VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West common ground for the most influential VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen men’s wear trends today. DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion 44 Eye DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci • Parties Once the 73rd Annual Golden Globes CONTROLLER Young Ko had wrapped, the Beverly Hilton Hotel became 66 Bridget Foley’s Diary SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, Derek Ramsey party central. Ralph Lauren proclaims that stores are not dead DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko • Report Card Rooney Mara, Alicia Vikander — far from it. DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus earned top marks on the Golden Globes red DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson carpet…Ricky Gervais, not so much. ON THE COVER: PHOTOGRAPH BY LORENZO BRINGHELI SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Ryan Ramos WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 2, TO CONTACT WWD Wednesday, January 13, 2016. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one additional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and August by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is unde- liverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production corre- spondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail FFM_Reprints@pmc. com or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLIC- ITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

6 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM Social Studies Edited by KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Best Worst

“I feel special ” A fashion week faux pas is rarely worth Not one of the actress’ cooler posts. taking personally.

@dianekrugerperso @rachelantonoff Actress Designer

“St. Bart’s à la mode #goldengirls #designingwoman” Is fashion week starting to heat up for Neil Barrett, Dean and Dan Caten, and Marc Jacobs?

@dsquared2 Designers

“Yo Mona Lisa, could I get a date on Friday? And if you’re busy, I wouldn’t mind taking Saturday ay ay???” “Meanwhile, back at The Ranch... #tbt with Is Cara Delevingne in Louvre? She took a lowbrow Art imitated real life for Constance Jablonski. @ralphlauren” approach to viewing the famous painting.

@constancejablonsk @bobbibrown @caradelevingne Model Founder and ceo, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics Model

@Cynthia_Rowley “I find only freedom in the Trending realms of eccentricity.” #RIP Let’s Follow Remembering David Bowie #DavidBowie NEXT WAVE MILLINER MOMENTS MODEL LIFE The fashion world paid homage to the music and style icon. @MichaelKors Great talent, great style and a @TommyHilfiger great gentleman. RIP, the one and David Bowie will always be a only David Bowie. rock ‘n’ roll legend and a dear friend. My heart is with his loved @openingceremony ones today. -TH We lost a legend last night...RIP David Bowie.

@LouisVuitton RIP David Bowie, a legend and a gentleman. Your extraordinary journey will continue, your magic will never die. @chloegmoretz @philiptreacy @dotwillow

Actress Hat designer Model Brade Nikolaus by Matti Hillig; Zukker by and Friedländer photographs Goy

8 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD TOP 10 STORIES OF THE WEEK Quote of the Week “Courrèges, Cardin and I were called the Three Musketeers. The Essentialist It’s the end of an era in fashion, but it’s inevitable.” Paco Rabanne on the death of André Courrèges

Market Report Macy’s Lowers An Arnault/ Getting Gilt The Taxman Stock Market Forecast Catterton The Hudson’s Bay Co. Cometh 5 continued its string of Tremors Activist shareholder Goliath acquisitions with its Karl Lagerfeld, one of Starboard Value turned fashion’s busiest and $50M 2 deal to buy the $550 million Gilt 7 Last week’s wild ride on Watch out, there’s a new THE SELLING PRICE up the pressure on Groupe for $250 million. most handsomely Wall Street that wiped Macy’s this week, sending a letter global giant on the prowl paid designers, came under the OF THE FORMER ANDY 1 3 It’s a low price for a once WARHOL ESTATE IN out $1 trillion in market for consumer invest- MONTAUK. to chairman Terry J. Lundgren high-flying flash-sale site that scrutiny of France’s aggressive Fashionably capitalization of the S&P 500 ments, and it bears a couple of urging the retailer to pursue joint saw its best days after the tax authorities. His accountants was triggered when a perfect familiar names. ventures to unlock shareholder Great Recession. Lately, it’s and financial advisers are having Engaged storm of financial and econom- value and to find additional Bernard Arnault and private an “open discussion” with the struggled with a format that’s The hashtags for Tory ic news converged to spook areas to cut expenses, on top equity player Catterton agreed to government, even while he pays Selling been widely copied and losing Burch’s first post in investors. of the $400 million disclosed by join forces and form L Catterton, “millions” in taxes in France, 10 distinction. Some Gilt workers 2016 include #blessed, And this week was off to a Macy’s the week before. Macy’s which is set to be the world’s André according to sources close to A Warhol will join HBC, but Gilt ceo #engaged, and #happynewyear. bumpy ride as all the major reported comparable-store largest consumer-focused in- the German designer — who is a Michelle Peluso will only stay Millard “Mickey” Drexler She used Instagram to reveal indices in Europe and Asia sales for November-December vestment firm. The company will Courrèges, 92 resident of Monaco. through a transition. Jonathan collects properties the that she is to marry Pierre-Yves closed Monday in the red with fell 4.7 percent, and lowered its have more than $12 billion under French news weekly L’Express 8 From white moon boots Greller, president of HBC outlets, way some people col- Roussel, the tall and dashing China’s Shanghai index falling a earning’s forecast for 2015, pro- management and will be based uncovered the probe, alleging to space-helmet hats will oversee the site. lect vintage cars or rare wine. chairman and chief executive whopping 5 percent. U.S. stocks jecting between $3.85 and $3.90 in Greenwich, Conn., and London. 4 that Chanel’s longtime couturier and micro-miniskirts, the HBC hopes to pump up the J. Crew’s chairman and ceo officer of LVMH Fashion Group. had opened up, slid in the midday a share, excluding expenses Partners at Catterton are set and Fendi’s fur and ready-to- father of futuristic fashion, André brand by consolidating some is downsizing, however. Drexler The designer posted a photo of session on Monday, ultimately related to cost efficiencies and to own a 60 percent stake, with wear designer avoided declaring Courrèges, was remembered functions into HBC’s shared recently sold his 5.7-acre estate herself on Roussel’s arm with the closing up slightly, setting the impairment charges primarily the balance jointly controlled by some 20 million euros, or $21.6 An Icon this week for his far-reaching services arm, and establishing in Montauk, N.Y., for $50 million, caption, “We are tying the knot.” tone for a choppy week. from store closings. Macy’s pre- Arnault’s LVMH Moët Hennessy million at current exchange, in influence on generations of Gilt shops inside Saks Off 5th setting a record for the hamlet in Roussel later confirmed to Bearish investors keyed into viously pegged earnings at $4.20 Louis Vuitton and his family hold- earnings over the past six years Departs fashion designers, from Marc stores starting in February. terms of residential sales. WWD that he popped the ques- financial woes out of China, fall- to $4.30. Along with other chains, ing company, Groupe Arnault. by channeling funds through Jacobs to Karl Lagerfeld, and Customers will be able to buy Investigating Drexler declined to comment After an 18-month tion, while noting no date has ing commodity prices, record-low the $28 billion department store Arnault — the world’s 13th-rich- companies located in Ireland, beyond, to packaging and indus- and return Gilt products at Off on the sale. battle with cancer, been decided for the wedding. crude oil prices, downwardly has been grappling with eco- est man according to Forbes — Iconix Britain, the British Virgin Islands 9 trial design. A visionary of jet-set 5th. A major impediment at Eothen, as the Montauk estate legendary performer He and Burch have been dating revised U.S. gross domestic nomic and consumer headwinds, said the combination would bring and the U.S. It is understood style, Courrèges died Jan. 7 after Gilt has been the difficulty of The year began with is called, was built in the Thirties David Bowie died on Sunday, two since June 2014. product estimates and slowing from shoppers showing less “together our global network and the income in question stems battling Parkinson’s disease for handling returns. The Gilt shops lots of activity around as a fishing camp. Andy Warhol, days after his 69th birthday. The Roussel, who oversees the industrial outputs (despite strong interest in fashion and spending industry expertise with Catter- 6 not from his regular fees from 30 years. could bring extra customer Iconix Brand Group Inc., who in 1972 paid $225,000 for the news, which was released on Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan auto sales). more on restaurants, travel and ton’s long–standing operational fashion houses, which include Dubbed the Space-Age traffic to Off 5th, which will stemming from the company’s property, would likely be shocked his Facebook page, sent ripples businesses in the U.S., has been As a result, the Dow Jones other experiences, to declining approach to building value in his signature firm controlled by Couturier, Courrèges was one of become an outpost for signing disclosure that the “comment that some of his paintings throughout the fashion industry splitting his time between Paris Industrial Average lost 1,000 tourism and excess inventories consumer investments.” He’s private equity fund Apax Part- the first designers to recognize up Gilt members. Also, Gilt has letter process” with the Securi- have fetched twice as much as and social media. and New York for professional points and the WWD Global from the unusually warm winter. familiar with his new partners, ners, but from photography work the importance of ready-to-wear. personalization technology ties and Exchange Commission Eothen’s recent sale price. Jean Paul Gaultier described and personal reasons and will Stock Tracker skidded to near its having invested in Catterton’s and assorted freelance projects. “You don’t walk through life that HBC could use to improve was upgraded to a formal inves- Drexler realized a nice return of Bowie as a “cult, an absolute continue to do so in the future. 52-week low. The WWD tracker funds since 1998. Lagerfeld declined all comment. anymore. You run. You dance. You conversions at all its Web tigation. Along with shareholder his own: He bought the secluded rock star,” while Belgian designer of 100 global fashion apparel, Catterton’s North American European houses under his drive a car. You take a plane, not sites. Over the years, HBC has lawsuits alleging wrongdoing, — MILES SOCHA oceanfront compound and Walter Van Beirendonck said the beauty, luxury and accessories and Latin American private eq- purview include Céline, Givenchy, COMPARABLE-STORE a train. Clothes must be able to purchased Hudson’s Bay, Lord management turmoil and a adjacent 24-acre horse farm in rock star made his “view on the Kenzo, Loewe, Pucci, Nicholas firms now shows more declining SALES FOR NOVEMBER- uity units will complement LVMH move, too,” he said. “I feel there & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue, string of earnings restatements, 2007 for $27.5 million. Paul Bren- world wider.” stocks than gainers in the past DECEMBER FELL and Groupe Arnault’s European Kirkwood and J.W. Anderson. is a very strong mood in the air. Kaufhof and Fortunoff’s, which the company faces a multitude nan, the Douglas Elliman listing Bowie, whose real name was year. and Asian private equity and real Burch, meanwhile, has a new Women want to wear casual, HBC closed. of challenges. Iconix could get agent, said Drexler only used the David Robert Jones, was born Some business media pundits estate operations, L Capital and Paris flagship to tend to. sporty clothes by day.” a refinancing completed for its property in August. in Brixton in the U.K. on Jan. 8, are squawking that this is a L Real Estate. That’s a potent — DAVID MOIN — MILES SOCHA Ralph Toledano, president of June 2016 convertible notes Adam Lindemann, the investor 1947. He began learning the sax- major market correction while 4.7% brew with intimate knowledge of the Fédération Française de la to satisfy a $300 million debt and art world figure who ophone at age 13 and played in others are saying, no, it is actually the global luxury market, a vast Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des obligation, but the cost of that purchased the property from various bands before developing worse. Bearish investors are Rolodex and piles of money that Couturiers et des Créateurs financing is expected to be Drexler, was attracted by its the David Bowie persona in 1966. claiming that Wall Street is need to be put to work. de Mode, French fashion’s steep. And with the stock trading provenance. Bowie’s visual and musical cre- witnessing the death throes of Donald Trump put in his two — EVAN CLARK governing body, said Courrèges at the $5.50 range, the watch “[Drexler] buys and sells a lot,” ations have produced a thread one of the longest-running bull cents, describing Macy’s as one was one of the rare designers to is also on to see whether the Brennan said. “He had a house that designers continue to pick markets in history. of the “worst performing stocks invent a style and also the first to shares dip below $5 a share, on Martha’s Vineyard and some- at — or sometimes unravel — in an Either way, the forces behind on the S&P last year, plunging 46 harness the power of manufac- when stocks typically lose insti- thing down in the Caribbean.” attempt to articulate their own the market’s volatility appear percent.” He called Macy’s “very turing to develop ready-to-wear. tutional investor support. And — SHARON EDELSON visions. It’s a thread that feels here to stay for some time. disloyal,” referencing Macy’s “He was both a revolutionary and adding interest is Mike Ashley’s profoundly relevant today as an- — ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ decision to stop carrying his a visionary,” Toledano said. “He Sports Direct International’s drogyny, which Bowie embraced merchandise after his comments strived obsessively for freedom, indirect acquisition of 4.3 million more than three decades ago, about Mexican immigrants. In the WWD Global Stock Tracker functionality, modernity and Iconix shares, or 9 percent of makes its way to the forefront meantime, Wall Street seems to relevance. His influence is keenly the company. It is said he has a of men’s wear, and “Lazarus,” an 107.50 like all the dustup: Macy’s stock felt nowadays.” long-standing interest in Iconix’s off-Broadway musical written by rose 8.2 percent on Monday. “He was an enormous talent. I Umbro brand. Bowie and Enda Walsh, plays at — DAVID MOIN don’t think he was appreciated — VICKI M. YOUNG the New York Theater Workshop. enough at all,” recalled one of + Bowie’s retrospective “David his devotees, Lee Radziwill. She Bowie Is,” is also currently on called his style “so fresh and so view at the Groninger Museum young — the very short skirts, the in Holland. Stat of the Week very high boots — and he was Revolving Door HR Moves — ARIA HUGHES 105.00 such a lovely gentleman.” For more on Courrèges’ style, AMONG THE WEEK’S HIGH-LEVEL APPOINTMENTS: For more on Bowie, German designer Philipp Plein named Graziano de Boni president and chief executive officer see pages 28 to 31. see pages 62, 63. — DIANNE M. POGODA for the Americas. De Boni previously held top posts at Giorgio Armani Corp., Reed Krakoff, Prada USA and Valentino . . . Vera Wang reached into the beauty world to find her new president, 104.18 +292,000 tapping Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, former global brand president of the Estée Lauder Cos.’ Aramis That was the number of jobs added in December while the and Designer Fragrances, Beauty Bank and IdeaBank . . . Former Christian Dior Couture exec unemployment rate remained unchanged at 5 percent. Laura Dubin-Wander was named president of Givenchy’s U.S. business. 102.50 But apparel and accessories stores slashed 17,500 jobs while

Jan 4 Jan 11 department stores trimmed payrolls by 5,800. Michael Ochs by Chinsee; Bowie George by Courrèges Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com/REX/Shutterstock; by Lindemann photograph Mark Mann Gilt by Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com/REX/Shutterstock; by Images; Burch Archives/Getty Costhanzo by Illustration

10 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 11 ISSUE DATE FEBRUARY 3 CLOSE: JANUARY 6 PREVIEW ISSUE DATE MATERIALS: JANUARY 25 JANUARY 27 CLOSE: JANUARY 13 MATERIALS: JANUARY 18 AGENDA

MEN’S SHOW DAILIES DISTRIBUTED ON SITE 02.03—02.04 CLOSE: JANUARY 28 MATERIALS: JANUARY 29 Milan’s

These four Italian designers represent a Next new breed of men’s wear. NY FASHION By ALESSANDRA TURRA WEEK: MEN’S They’re not freshmen — or even sophomores — and already they’ve made names for themselves on the international fashion circuit. But Massimo Giorgetti, Damir Doma, Andrea Incontri and Andrea Pompilio represent the new guard on Milan’s men’s wear scene, helping to reshape the city’s image by injecting a different energy into a TAKE market historically anchored by large tailored and Wave luxury brands. “I’m very positive about the situation of men’s wear in Italy,” said Tiziana Cardini, fashion direc- tor of Milan-based department store La Rina- The revived energy isn’t lost on Bruce Pask, scente. “There is a good vibe in Milan, not only men’s fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman. because a new generation of designers is affirming “The younger designers in Milan lend a neces- its role in both the national and international sary vitality and freshness to that men’s wear TWO! scenarios, but also because big brands, including landscape,” he said, expressing his admiration for the most traditional, are renovating their image.” Incontri’s work for both his line and Tod’s. COMPLETE COVERAGE OF THE Even bigger brands are tapping into the new “All the members of the Italian Fashion Cham- wave. Tod’s and Canali picked two of the most ber are keen to give their support to the new promising names — Incontri and Pompilio, respec- generation of designers,” said Camera Nazionale CFDA’S SOPHOMORE EVENT! tively — to revamp their image and give a younger della Moda president and chief executive officer spin to their collections. Carlo Capasa. “I think that Giorgetti, Incontri, Pompilio and Doma have their unique style and they perfectly reflect the fact that today’s fashion is the rich combination of extremely different attitudes and approaches.” Here, a look at the four designers. ►

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected]

Edited by JEAN E. PALMIERI and ALEX BADIA WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 13 “The collection is about construction and deconstruction; it’s about the thin line between masculine and feminine.” AGENDA

Damir Doma

“I love design and shapes, and my real challenge is to create pieces which can be a tool to express people’s personalities.”

Andrea Incontri

ANDREA DAMIR DOMA INCONTRI ¬ In the last decade, many Italian brands decamped to Paris, but ¬ His background as an last year Croatian designer architect — he graduated from Damir Doma took the opposite the Politecnico di Milano — is tack. He decided to leave the constantly reflected in Andrea City of Light, where he started Incontri’s work. Passionate about showing his collection in 2009, to the study of shapes and silhou- settle in a studio in Milan. ettes, the designer, who launched The 34-year-old designer, who his namesake brand in 2009, studied ESMOD in Berlin and made a name for himself with Munich, is known for his minimal ready-to-wear and accessories collections imbued with a certain infused with a sense of ease. The gender fluidity. He said he found collection is available in about 55 new energy in the Italian city, stores worldwide. where he thinks there are more “I think simplicity is an exercise chances for young designers [that transcends] seasons,” said to stand out. For Doma, Milan is the designer, 44, who in June also key because it is closer to 2014 was also named creative the factories in Brescia and Turin director of Tod’s men’s line. “The that produce the collection, sold trademark of the Andrea Incontri in about 120 multibrand stores man is ‘formal lightness.’ I love worldwide. design and shapes, and my real “I wanted to create a very sen- challenge is to create pieces sitive and mysterious man. The which can be a tool to express collection is about construction people’s personalities.” and deconstruction; it’s about For the fall 2016 season, Incon- the thin line between masculine tri will show a range of outerwear and feminine. It’s about imper- options crafted from padded fection, rawness and simplicity; leather, as well as from some of it’s about touching things and the most classic Italian sartorial leaving things untouched,” Doma fabrics such as loden, which he said of the fall 2016 collection he uses for coats and bombers. will show on Jan. 17. He also is using materials with “Basically it’s a very sculpted a more sporty feel, such as collection. We spent lots of time heavy nylons and black techno with the pattern-cutters this duchesse. “I’ve also worked season. The clothes are volume lightweight wool for supersoft, Photographs by studies with a strong focus unlined suits,” he said. Accesso- on the materials, finishing and ries including backpacks with LORENZO BRINGHELI details. The man and the woman multiple pockets, briefcases Grooming VALERIO SESTITO are independent, strong. They are and document cases complete AT FREELANCE ARTISTS AGENCY creative souls and free spirits.” the collection. The lineup will be USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE showcased at a presentation on Model: LUDWIG AT 2MORROW Jan. 18. MODEL MANAGEMENT

14 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 15 AGENDA

“The eccentricity of grunge and rock ’n’ roll [fused with] the rigor of the most classic fabrics of the sartorial tradition.”

Massimo Giorgetti

ANDREA MSGM POMPILIO ¬ Massimo Giorgetti, 38, who launched MSGM in 2009, is ¬ After cutting his teeth working among the most successful for a string of major fashion designers in Italian fashion’s con- houses and designers, including temporary segment. Giorgetti, Miuccia Prada, Stefano Pilati at who started as a sales assistant Yves Saint Laurent, Alessandro in a luxury store, consulted for a Dell’Acqua and Calvin Klein, range of fashion brands before Andrea Pompilio launched his launching his own line. brand in June 2011. Pompilio, Starting with lineups showing who is also Canali’s creative bold patterns and vivid colors, consultant, the first tapped by over the seasons, Giorgetti, who the company, was also the first was named creative director designer to be chosen by Giorgio of Emilio Pucci in March, now Armani to show in his theater in focuses on a more mature look, June 2013. setting aside his signature play- Using vivid colors and patterns, ful graphics to concentrate on Pompilio’s collections, which edgier silhouettes and high-end are sold in about 50 multibrand finishing. stores worldwide, are focused For the brand’s fall 2016 men’s on easy-to-wear pieces crafted collection, Giorgetti fused “the from high-end materials. For fall, eccentricity of grunge and rock Pompilio, who will abandon the ’n’ roll” with “the rigor of the most runway to host a more intimate classic fabrics of the sartorial presentation at his Milan show- tradition.” The designer also said room, created a wardrobe of 73 the lineup was inspired by the pieces to be unveiled on Jan. 15. Seattle of Cameron Crowe’s film “These will tell my idea of a “Singles.” wardrobe — simply what I like,” said the 43-year-old designer, who studied at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. “The revisited military coat, the double-breasted jacket with surprising details, the sneaker. Iconic, independent pieces, complete in their own individuality. Strong, as usual, due to the quality of a 100 percent Made in Italy expertise, that idea of taste remains my very “Patterns, colors, personal mark: patterns, colors, lines, ‘mismatched’ lines, ‘mismatched’ matches, matches, pervaded pervaded by a subtle and never-ending irony.” by a subtle and never-ending irony.”

Andrea Pompilio

16 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 17 AGENDA

“Sophisticated, unique and contemporary experimentation, which mixes stylistic creativity with details ‘stolen’ from “Messenger’s the world of motorcycle style.” — Andreas and sport: Training + Melbostad, Biker.” — Design Team, creative director, Dirk Bikkembergs Diesel Black Gold “For this look I chose a military-inspired double-breasted jacket with metallic applications worn with a striped cashmere “Military style “As usual, the inspiration top and slim denim pants, treated to obtain meets the Italian of the collection is a leatherlike coating effect.” — Ermanno Scervino Baroque.” to see fashion from a — Christian different perspective.” Pellizzari DESIGNER — Massimo Piombo INSPIRATIONS, MILAN, 2016 From the mountains to the track, military to the mystical, Milan’s designers are going both sophisticated and street for their men’s fall collections. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

“Camouflage.” — Thom Browne, creative director, “RUN BOY, RUN.” Moncler Gamme Bleu — Kean Etro, men’s creative director, Etro

“Tradition and experimentation.” “Black Magic.” — Ennio Capasa, — Tom Notte and creative director, Bart Vandebosch, Costume National Les Hommes

“For Z Zegna’s FW 2016/17, technological tailoring and sportswear with an atmosphere of subzero, mountainous high altitude converge, re-contextualized into an urban high-rise attitude.” — Murray Scallon and Francesco Muzi, co-creative directors, Z Zegna

“Mountain boot in calfskin, hand-colored and polished in tones of dark gray, completely hand-sewn.” — Giuseppe Santoni, creative director, Santoni

“Deconstructed and soft shapes, coats with stretched volumes, small shoulders, small jackets, coats and cabans with decors inspired by dress uniforms, multipockets, Canadian jackets, parkas, slender ankle trousers, printed crepe de chine tight shirts.” — Alessandro Dell’Acqua, No. 21

18 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM 19 AGENDA

“Rossignol’s men’s wear “Prince of Wales check collection for next winter three-piece canvassed season elevates the brand’s suit (lined entirely by hand), active and dynamic spirit to closed with real leather a new level of sophistication, buttons stitched by hand, ushering the modern worn with a striped jacquard gentleman from mountain cotton/silk shirt and gold resort to city streets. silk foulard. Blue cotton Enhanced by high-end wide-wale corduroy velvet materials, impeccably fitted suit and double-breasted silhouettes and sleek details, suit in wool/cashmere jersey garments reveal a unique bouclé with a denim effect. mix of quilted and smooth Both suits are worn with a fabrics. A sharp graphic ribbed velvet shirt and logo touch adds a contemporary tie. Double-breasted blue edge to the performance, ski wide-wale corduroy velvet and après-ski categories, as coat with leather buttons.” well as to the urban range.” — Gaia Trussardi, creative — Alessandro Locatelli, director, Trussardi chief executive officer, Rossignol Apparel

“For the new fall 2016 men’s collection, I took inspiration from the late Eighties and the most exclusive and glamorous clubs in the world. The result is a collection for an elegant and irreverent man who loves to wear refined shoes with a twist.” — Giuseppe Zanotti

“The injection of ‘soul’ and memory into clothes, treating “Missoni men’s surfaces to create effects like fall 2016 collection clouds, ice, smoke, steam and traverses the journey dust, becoming sometimes of its roaming muse opaque and sometimes as he scales the translucent. Like in a living mystical culture and painting.” — Davide Marello, mountainous terrain creative director, Boglioli of the Ladakh region and discerningly illustrates the union of sport and luxury for its man on the go.” “Unlined coat in technical bouclé — Angela Missoni, with detachable nylon and mesh creative director, detail worn with a pair of wool Missoni pants with American pockets, a lightweight shirt with soft neck and a cable-knit cardigan.” — Sergio Corneliani, creative director, Corneliani

20 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM omething old, something securing a spot on Jan. 16 at the former city fair- new — and something not grounds. Ceo Paolo Roviera struck a positive note, so blue. saying spring 2016 sales were in line with the same Milan Men’s Fashion Week season a year earlier, despite the cancellation of starts Jan. 15 with some nov- 150 wholesale accounts as part of a strategy to elty and freshness against streamline distribution. AGENDA the backdrop of a local econ- The devaluation of the ruble and a drop of busi- omy that is showing the first ness in Russia, also affected by the enforced inter- whiffs of a moderate pickup. national sanctions, also weighed on performance Exports were dented in the second half of last year, as Pal Zileri was particularly exposed to Slast year by the slowdown in Asia, a “freeze” of that market. European markets — except for the U.K. — and “We knew 2015 was going to be a difficult a further deterioration in Russia, according to year because we had planned to streamline the the Italian Chamber of Fashion’s latest Fashion number of clients that were not in line with our Economic Trends. medium- to long-term vision, and we terminated The association’s study expected the Italian our ceremony collection,” Roviera said. Formal, fashion industry to close 2015 with a 1.4 percent sartorial designs still represent the backbone of increase in revenues, reaching 62 billion euros, or the brand, representing 70 percent of sales, but $67.7 billion at current exchange, followed by a 2.5 increasingly, outerwear, knits and jackets are percent increase in the first half of 2016. gaining strength. Sales continued to pick up in Italy in the third Leveraging “more reliable clients and agree- quarter, showing a 1.5 percent increase, “the best ments with stronger partners,” Roviera is expect- quarter in terms of growth since 2010” in the ing an upswing in 2016, “reaping the fruits of region, the group said. the work done in 2015.” Pal Zileri was acquired A scene from Isaia’s “Tailor-Made Crime” (top), According to the latest Fondazione Altagamma by the Qatar-based Mayhoola for Investments in and Giancarlo Giannini in Raffaele Caruso’s and Bain & Co. 2015 Worldwide Markets Monitor February 2014. “The Good Italian II.” Both short films were presented in October, Italy is “back to positive Boglioli will hold its first-ever fashion show produced for the men’s shows. with a 6 percent growth in 2015 compared with designed by its first creative director, Davide 2014,” with Milan a standout in terms of growth. Marello. The event will be held on Jan. 17 at Milan’s Globally, last year, men’s ready-to-wear was up exclusive gentleman’s club, the Società del Giar- 13 percent with revenues of 29 billion euros, or dino, in the 16th-century Palazzo Spinola’s “Gold “Italy has an indestructible $31.4 billion. At constant rates, the increase stood Room” and adjacent salons. at 2 percent. Ceo Giovanni Mannucci hailed the arrival of image. The country Casualwear posted low, single-digit growth a head designer, seeing it as a way to “further while more formal apparel continued to suffer. identify the brand with more creativity, helping leverages art, culture, Outerwear, denim and cashmere outperformed to offer a unique proposition.” At the same time, know-how, fashion and its Boglioli will showcase 2014 and the study highlighted the growing success Mannucci highlighted the relevance of other new creative director of fur and shearling, as well as customized denim. elements. “There is an increased awareness and very essence.” Davide Marello’s first The blurring of the boundaries between gen- attention to the price-quality ratio,” he said, while collection in Milan. Umberto Angeloni, Raffaele Caruso SpA ders provided a strong boost to unisex styles, the he also spoke of the “psychological aspect. Men monitor said. want to feel cool, they are very insecure in dress- While the Milan schedule remains filled with ing and they want to know that they are choosing megabrands, there are a slew of newcomers — as a brand that will not throw them outside their film. Produced by Gianluca Migliarotti, it is called a new unit will bow in Dallas. After opening four well as debuts — set for the five days of shows. sphere of reference.” “Tailor-Made Crime. Style calls, Napoli answers.” stores in Korea in 2015, global expansion will Mannucci said he had seen an uptick in business To support its expansion in the U.S. at the end continue this year, with the unveiling of addi- he first Roberto Cavalli men’s collection in Italy and underscored how the international of last year, Isaia developed a new omnichannel tional boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai. Exports designed by creative director Peter Dun- Expo, which closed at the end of October, helped experience with San Francisco-based tech com- account for 91 percent of total production. das under the new ownership of private draw attention to Milan, with more social and pany Toovia C3, launching its global e-commerce Canali touted the “right balance between cau- equity fund Clessidra will be presented cultural initiatives, new infrastructure, hotels, platform. tion and innovation,” which helped offset the in a new location for the brand — in the restaurants and ideas. “Milan has always been seen Kiton ceo Antonio De Matteis was also optimis- impact of “several socioeconomic crises” last Tgilded rooms of the storied Palazzo Crespi — on the as a financial city, but now there is more interest tic about business in Italy, where “there are the year, and leading the company to expect another evening of Jan. 15. in lifestyle here,” he said. bases for a quicker pickup and the mood is more year of growth in 2016. A new state-of-the-art and Cavalli sold 90 percent of his namesake com- A stronger dollar helped attract more Ameri- serene.” Globally, he said, “Markets are unstable, sustainable warehouse will open this year near pany to Clessidra last April in a deal that market can tourists to Italy, even though the number of which doesn’t help business, but, despite this, our Canali’s headquarters in Sovico, outside Milan. sources pegged at between 400 million and 420 Russians fell and there has been a slowdown of sales were up 7 percent in 2015.” Kiton registered million euros, or $408.5 million to $430 million. Chinese visitors. “The year 2015 was not partic- “an excellent first half” in the U.S., followed by a t’s a good moment, given the inclination of “The show is a first step, a debut. Our men’s ularly happy. The only turnaround was in Italy, slowdown “due to the warm weather.” men to buy precious objects,” said Anton division still only accounts for 8 percent of our with a change in trend, more optimism and more China, a market Kiton entered in 2010, experi- Magnani, ceo of storied footwear brand Sutor Italy sales,” said chief executive officer Renato Sem- selected visitors,” observed Mannucci. enced a “small decrease,” but the downturn was Mantellassi. Magnani believes this is “a great erari, noting that this is the first men’s collection “Italy has an indestructible image,” said not significant. “It’s still a small market for the opportunity” for Sutor Mantellassi, which has Dundas is tackling. “We see it as an opportunity to Umberto Angeloni, chairman, ceo and majority company,” noted De Matteis. Ia strong heritage. “This brand has deep roots, grow, also because it’s a core category [to develop shareholder of Raffaele Caruso SpA. “The coun- Kiton will open a second store in Tokyo in more than a century of expertise and strong brand business in] Asia.” try leverages art, culture, know-how, fashion and March, and a second unit in Paris in September. awareness,” he said. Bouncing The executive explained that Cavalli’s men’s line its very essence.” A sequel of the short movie In terms of style, De Matteis said the market is Magnani has been working on the relaunch of was previously “not as defined” as the women’s, presented in June, meant to promote the Italian “split. Young customers who are becoming suc- the brand under a new owner, the Korean fund hence “not very visible.” There are no dedicated lifestyle, was launched at Pitti Uomo on Jan. 12 cessful professionally are looking for more formal E-Land, which involves restructuring the company men’s stores, but the brand’s directly operated and then shown in Milan on Jan. 16 at the Four suits with a contemporary twist.” Conversely, a and renovating its Via Montenapoleone store in stores carry the men’s category. Seasons Hotel in Via Gesù, now dubbed the “Via more established generation is “asking for sportier Milan. Back Semerari characterized 2016 as a year of transi- dell’Uomo,” or men’s street. looks for their leisure time.” Sutor Mantellassi is reentering the U.S. market tion, as the company goes through a restructuring Called “The Good Italian II, The Prince goes to Stefano Canali, general director of the fami- with Saks Fifth Avenue with the fall collection and While 2015 was challenging, the picture and reorganization. “We are building a new Cavalli Milan,” actor Giancarlo Giannini once again inter- ly-owned Canali, defined 2015 as “an important Magnani said he expects the company to break universe,” he said. prets the role of the Prince of Soragna, seen trav- year of consolidation in terms of organization and even in 2017. is brighter for many upscale men’s labels. Young designer Lucio Vanotti will hold his first eling from the medieval castle in the small town infrastructure.” At the end of the year, the brand Concurring with Boglioli’s Mannucci, Magnani By LUISA ZARGANI runway show the following morning, courtesy of near Parma where Caruso is based to the luxury launched e-commerce in Europe, a sales tool that said: “There is a revival [in Milan] connected to the Giorgio Armani. Vanotti is the latest guest designer hotel on a legendary Lancia Aurelia B24 Spider. is expected to account for 43 percent of sales in Expo, which did not bring any real advantages in to be offered Armani’s theater. This season, Isaia is holding its first presentation the U.S., the group’s main market, in 2016. the golden shopping triangle, but it helped change For the first time, Pal Zileri appears on the in Milan, skipping Pitti Uomo and, for the occa- In the U.S. last year, Canali opened stores in the perception of the city, drawing American

Italian Chamber of Fashion’s official calendar, Masini Sofia by Caruso photograph sion, the storied brand will also release a short Washington, Las Vegas and Houston. In February, tourists.” ■

22 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM Illustration by ANDREA MANZATI WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 23 London 24 Collections JANUARY 2016, No. 2

2016 AGENDA HITPE ABR SA UN ASTRID ANDERSEN SEANSUEN CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

WWD.COM BURBERRY English Accents CRAIG GREEN Enlisted Men ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDER AGI &SAM COACH

Coach photograph by James Gourley/REX/Shutterstock; all others by Giovanni Giannoni

Illustration: Artist Name Boxy references cardigans statement andupdated tailoring, military were among the key Fashion outofavery trends commercial London thatcame Week. ALEX MULLINS .TUZ G A LOU DALTON AGI &SAM E. TAUTZ PRINGLE OFSCOTLAND Mr. Softy By By ALEX BADIA MAN: RORY PARNELL-MOONEY MARGARET HOWELL 1205 WWD.COM

JANUARY 2016, No. 2

25 Bloom Service XXL Cardigans AGENDA

Collections London 2016

MOSCHINO ALEXANDER MCQUEEN TIGER OF SWEDEN JAMES LONG J.W. ANDERSON CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN SIBLING OLIVER SPENCER

Pajama Party Boxed In

J.W. ANDERSON SIBLING TOPMAN DESIGN EDWARD CRUTCHLEY MAN: CHARLES JEFFREY JOSEPH TOPMAN DESIGN RICHARD JAMES Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration:

26 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 27 1972 1970 1968 AGENDA

Captain Courrèges

1967 André Courrèges died Jan. 7 at age 92. One of the first designers to make Space Age style a reality, Courrèges wasn’t down to earth — he had his own spaceship — but he influenced fashion for decades. etty Images etty y Bettmann/CORBIS; y Bettmann/CORBIS;

Audrey Hepburn in a A trio of Courrèges hat models in in “How to Courrèges, Steal a Million,” 1965. 1966. Hepburn by Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Associati & Archivi/Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images; 1967 by Express Newspapers/G Express Images; 1967 by via Getty Portfolio & Archivi/Mondadori Associati Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Hepburn by Photograph by CSU/Everett Collection CSU/Everett by Photograph Images; 1968 b bild via Getty Paris/ullstein Interpress Images; 1970 by bild via Getty Bernd Thiele/ullstein by 1972 photograph

28 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 29 In the Spirit of Courrèges Looks from spring, 1972. AGENDA

BALENCIAGA FALL 2006

Courrèges, in silver, surrounded by models in his looks, June 1972.

PRADA SPRING 2010

French actress Claudine Auger in a Courrèges dress in Paris, 1965.

PRADA ean/ SPRING 2013

Catherine Deneuve in a Courrèges coat and boots, 1965.

MOSCHINO SPRING 2013

Courrèges in his studio during a Sketches from fitting for the spring 1968 fall 1972. LOUIS VUITTON collection. 1967 Runway photographs by Giovanni Giannoni and Davide Maestri; 1972 group by Michel Ginfray/Sygma/Corbis; 1972 spring by Alain Dej 1972 spring by Michel Ginfray/Sygma/Corbis; by 1972 group Giannoni and Davide Maestri; Giovanni by photographs Runway Alain Dejean/Sygma/Corbis by Photograph SPRING 2013 Collection Everett of courtesy Auger Gray; Reginald by Images; 1972 studio Standard/Getty Evening by Deneuve Sygma/Corbis;

30 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 31 HERE WAL-MART leads, retail follows. continue to change at an accelerating pace,” Wal- Mart’s McMillon told Wall Street in August. “We ¶ And that’s bad news for all involved also know that what we did in the past wouldn’t given the discount giant’s woes and by itself be enough to win with customers. Com- Agenda petition is strengthening. Pure e-commerce busi- what its stumbles say about the nesses move fast, innovate well and run on lower crushing change sweeping through margins. Hard discounters run on lower levels of profitability and they’re growing quickly. We retail. ¶ Wal-Mart has 11,500 stores, know there’s a lot more change to come and W we’re motivated by it.” revenues approaching half a trillion Wal-Mart based its digital business in Silicon dollars and the resources, experience, drive and reputation to Valley and plans to put out more than $1 billion get what it wants — or as close to it as possible. Yet faced with into its e-commerce business this year. That spending, which few others could stomach, is the challenges of Amazon.com, modern brick-and-click retailing another big part of the profit drain at Wal-Mart. and a lackluster consumer, Wal-Mart is coming up short. The To meet the Amazonian challenge, Wal-Mart and many other retailers are trying to make the company, now led by chief executive officer Doug McMillon, best of their brick-and-mortar, launching a wave has acknowledged that its profits won’t grow until fiscal 2019 of buy-online-and-pick-up-in-store initiatives. Target offers curbside pickup in some locations, as it retools for the future. ¶ That’s a pretty big piece of humble while Sears offers in-vehicle pickup at all of its locations. Kohl’s one-ups them all and offers spe- pie for a retailer with enough square footage to cover Manhattan cial parking spots for these customers. one-and-a-half times over. ¶ Wal-Mart, which became the largest Wal-Mart, which has the biggest physical retail presence by far, offers store pickup for online or- U.S. retailer in 1990, has the billions to spend on a makeover and ders and is testing various curbside pickup op- command of enough markets to give it time to change. Those tions. Such initiatives help retailers save on shipping, are advantages most of its competitors lack. Other retailers are but execution is poor. In a JDA Consumer survey, forced to either hurt more when the market shifts — suffering 50 percent of shoppers who tried picking up or- ders in stores experienced a service issue. They serious maladies while Wal-Mart catches a cold — or be more cited either slow service or missing orders. inventive, more aggressive, more forward-looking or just luckier A Stella Service study found that retailers are still trying to figure out how to implement the to keep their place in the market. Wal-Mart is also so big and new service. For example, Macy’s and Sears took a player everywhere that its moves reverberate broadly. ¶ Any over two hours to confirm by e-mail that a prod- uct was available to customers. examination of the retail giant’s challenges is a look at issues that According to Stella Service, shoppers picking every retailer will have to face sooner or later, in their own ways. up online orders in stores spent more time in the checkout process than regular in-store shoppers. Wal-Mart’s big yellow smiley face is the industry’s canary in a coal Target makes the pickup area immediately visible mine and it’s looking a little peaked. That’s telling everyone else to upon entering the store and Nordstrom lets shop- pers visit any service desk. look at Wal-Mart and be on guard for these issues. Costco has chosen not to respond at all, saying it wants customers to come into the store and not WAGES wages, it sets off a chain reaction of job-hopping. shop online. Costco says it does not want to be After years of being targeted for too-slim pay- There has also been a shift at Wal-Mart to more everything to everybody. checks for workers, Wal-Mart has stressed that decision-making at the store level and less corpo- The digital battle has also spilled over into wages are going to start squeezing earnings. In rate control, leading to 450 job cuts at its Benton- other, long-standing points of retail contention. fiscal 2016, the company will take a hit of $1.2 bil- ville, Ark., headquarters. This could lead to ven- Wal-Mart for instance, is trying to work a mobile lion in incremental expenses tied to wages, and dors reducing their teams that worked directly solution to rid itself of some irksome credit fees. another $1.5 billion in fiscal 2017. The pay hikes with those employees. Wal-Mart filed a lawsuit against Visa in 2014 represent 75 percent of the company’s earnings Target and Sears laid off workers in their head- and has been very vocal about its unhappiness a share reduction, with wages increasing to $9 an quarters in the recent past. And Macy’s offered with credit card fees. Michael Pryor of CFO Stack hour last year and set to go to $10 this year. key executives buyouts late last year — which Overflow speculated that Wal-Mart pays nearly As Wal-Mart goes higher to compete for work- turned out to be the tip of the iceberg since the $2 billion in credit card interchange fees a year. ers, the rest of the market gets squeezed. company said last week that it would lay off 2,100 Certainly, that dynamic help pushed Wal-Mart Some retailers were already sensing the chang- workers as part of a program to shave expenses to enter into the mobile payments industry in es in the labor dynamic. Gap Inc. increased its by $400 million annually. December with a proprietary technology called minimum hourly rate to $9 in February 2014 and Last week, the Labor Department’s reading on “Wal-Mart Pay” that will work on Apple or An- then up to $10 in 2015. According to Web site the December employment scene showed that droid devices. If shoppers go to the trouble to Glassdoor.com, the average pay for a cashier is apparel and accessories stores cut payrolls by a download Wal-Mart Pay, it’s likely they will use it $8.54 at Kohl’s, $9.04 at J.C. Penney and $8.87 at seasonally adjusted 17,500 jobs as department to shop and place more orders with Wal-Mart and Target. stores cut 5,800 jobs. not its competitors. Wal-Mart’s Management consulting firm Hay Group be- Meanwhile, Amazon is bulking up in nearly ev- Wal-Mart’s desire to cut out Visa and Master- lieves that it would cost other retailers $4 billion ery way, adding staff as it picks up market share Card and save itself some fee money is having to match Wal-Mart’s pay raise. “We looked at and drawing vendors to Seattle. huge ripple effects. Wal-Mart was already a mem- the data from 130 retailers and calculated what ber of a group of 40 retailers that called them- it would cost them to collectively raise their em- TECHNOLOGY selves the MCX Consortium, which had been ployees’ salaries and that’s how we came up with As Amazon grew from an online book store to a developing a mobile payment option called Cur- Tough Climb the number,” said Craig Rowley, global leader of digital Goliath and sank billions into becoming, rentC. It wasn’t moving fast enough for Wal-Mart. the Hay Group retail practice. in its words, “Earth’s most customer-centric In what appears to be another example of Turnover is also climbing as these employees company,” Wal-Mart and retail lagged in tech. Wal-Mart moves forcing others to shift, Target As the retail giant struggles with the digital chase that higher pay. Retail turnover was 50 per- Now everyone is trying to make up for lost is rumored to be in the early stages of a similar cent during the recession and now it has risen to time while the Amazon juggernaut keeps gaining mobile-wallet product. Wal-Mart says it’s still evolution, competitors are scrambling to keep up. 65 percent. Rowley pointed out that for these em- speed. Wal-Mart is charging hard after the e-com- an MCX member, but many are worried that if By DEBRA BORCHARDT ployees getting a 25-cent pay increase per hour merce business, with Amazon clearly in its sights. it leaves the group and then Target, then MCX is worth changing jobs. So if one retailer raises “We all know that retail has changed and will might not have a chance. ►

00 MONTH 2015, No.X WWD.COM Illustration by KYLE T. WEBSTER Illustration by KYLE T. WEBSTER WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 33 PRICES Wal-Mart’s new strategy includes a good portion of its old one: having the lowest prices. The Wal-Mart-Amazon Matchup But that’s increasingly difficult in this day of Wal-mart Amazon Agenda Internet comparison shopping and aggressive Your Front moves for market share. Wal-Mart started the holiday 2015 selling season by cutting prices on $484B Employees 2015 Stock Change more than 20,000 products and while in years +119% past that might have seemed like an impossible feat to match for its many of its competitors, Row Seat To Amazon shot back just days later with more than 30,000 of its Lightning Deals for the season. Wal-Mart managers were told to match Ama- $285B -28% zon prices. 2.2M Fashion’s The lackluster consumer and some pressure $208B from that battle was felt up and down the price scale. Holiday Deals As the holiday season approached its zenith, $100B Wells Fargo analysts said price cuts intensified Hottest Week across the mall, with 36 percent of promotions in their study deemed “deeper or broadly more More than More than $15B promotional.” 154,100 200,000 30,000 $328M price cuts lightning “The brands where we observed meaningfully deals higher promotions were both Michael Kors con- Revenues Profits Market Cap cepts…Coach full-price stores — with a new Cyber Monday and earlier winter sale — Anthropolo- SOURCE: S&P Capital IQ, Yahoo Finance. Financials reflect the trailing 12 months. gie…as well as Gap and Banana Republic,” the analysts said. While consumers benefit from all this dis- has come to right-size. According to Dorothy But there will be far fewer Wal-Mart store counting, multiline merchants turn around and Lakner, managing director at Topeka Capital openings this year as the chain sets out to shrink squeeze their vendors. Markets, “The new ideal store count for a U.S. its store footprint. Wal-Mart’s decision to scale Wal-Mart attempted to change the terms of national chain of clothing retailers is 600 to 700 back gives other retailers the green light to do so its vendor contracts last summer, requesting stores.” as well. amendments such as extended payment terms As Wal-Mart seeks to reinvent with a sharper Other retailers feeling the same pressures that on items that don’t sell quickly and a discount if digital eye, the company is also focusing on im- are bearing down on Wal-Mart are in brick-and- it pays the vendor early. proving its physical touch points. mortar retreat. “No supplier will happily accept less payment The first step in McMillon’s plan to reshape the Most recently, Macy’s said it would shutter 40 and/or longer payment terms so we suspect there company is to “win with stores.” doors as part of its reorganization, which is being has been a significant number and level of pro- “We know customers love shopping in stores, spurred by a 4.7 percent comparable-store sales longed ‘discussion’ between suppliers, their mer- and they’ll want great stores tomorrow,” the ceo decline for the combined November and Decem- chandising counterparts and Wal-Mart’s supplier said as he laid out his vision. “And why wouldn’t ber period. administration and/or senior leadership,” wrote they? The chance to interact with products, to see “In light of our disappointing 2015 sales and Raymond James analyst Budd Bugatch. something new, to look at an item, touch a fab- earnings performance, we are making adjust- “Moreover, we hypothesize that many, if not ric, smell something, see a color, it’s important ments to become more efficient and productive most, suppliers would have budgets in place for to them. The opportunity to buy something and in our operations,” said Terry J. Lundgren, chair- 2015 that such amendments would disturb and take it home right away is satisfying. Now stores man and ceo of Macy’s. “We can operate more threaten.” will be different and those we operate today need effectively with an organization that is flatter and This is an area where Wal-Mart with its girth to change. So we’ll keep refreshing them to make more agile so we can pursue growth and regain still has an edge, leaving other retailers to scram- them relevant for the future. They’ll be more market share in our core Macy’s and Blooming- ble. convenient, for example, whether it’s a stock-up dale’s omnichannel businesses faster and with Retail expert Jan Kniffen of Kniffen Enter- trip or a top-up trip. The in-store experience will more intensity.” prises believes that even though many other be critical, which is why our investment in peo- In November, Target revealed it was closing 13 competitors will want to get the same deal that ple this year is also a bridge to our future. These stores, mostly in the Midwest, after years of de- Wal-Mart is asking, they probably won’t. “None things are not unrelated.” creasing profitability. J.C. Penney closed roughly have the volume that gives Wal-Mart the power 40 stores, Sears shut down 235 stores in 2015 and to squeeze the supply chain the way it does. And Stage Stores is shuttering 90 to improve chain no one can squeeze the supply chain like Wal- productivity. Mart,” he said. By comparison, Amazon is expanding, not Rowley of Hay Group agreed with Kniffen that only building its own sales by moving into Latin Wal-Mart would get better terms from vendors America and bolstering its distribution capacity, NYFW because of its size. “The deals are not a secret but growing as a platform for other sellers to get for long, but the volume players always get bet- at its huge customer base. ter deals. Every retailer is looking to get better The company said individuals and businesses PREVIEW deals like shorter shipping times, getting goods selling on Amazon this holiday season sold to delivered just in time, open to buy — not commit more than 80 percent of the people who ordered + SHOW DAILIES to contract.” Rowley said the vendors have to be a physical item through the Web site. Amazon ready with large quantities for Wal-Mart, which keeps its data close to the vest, but did say that PREVIEW ISSUE: FEBRUARY 10 may decide late in the season it doesn’t want “Competition is on Cyber Monday alone, sellers received orders CLOSE: JANUARY 27 / MATERIALS: FEBRUARY 1 them. for more than 23 million items. “That helps out Ross Stores and T.J. Maxx who strengthening. Pure That helps explain why, at least in terms of SHOW DAILIES: FEBRUARY 11—18 get the leftover inventory that the vendors had e-commerce businesses market capitalization, Amazon shot past Wal- CLOSE: 4 DAYS FROM ISSUE DATE created for Wal-Mart,” Rowley said. Mart last year and is now worth nearly $290 bil- MATERIALS: 3 DAYS FROM ISSUE DATE move fast, innovate lion. STORE CLOSURES AND RIGHT-SIZING While retail executives still gaze in awe at Wal- Closing stores and shrinking footprint used to be well and run Mart, try to emulate it and quake over its sheer a sign of desperation for retailers. Now it seems on lower margins.” scale and financial might, some of the edge has as if retail is overstored as more shopping takes been taken off. There’s a new behemoth they all

place online and mall traffic is down. The time Doug McMillon, Wal-Mart want to be: Amazon. ■ Images Goldring/Getty Erika by McMillon photograph FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 34 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM What is the most notable job you have had as an actor? I was on season three of “Orange is the New Black.” I had a few smaller roles before, but when I went in for “OITNB,” I was actually a bit offended. They had sent me in because there were two roles that were being cast: one was the cute lovable boyfriend and the other was a meth-head hillbilly. When I realized I had booked the [meth-head] role, I was happy but still a bit offended. But being on set was awesome; they let me improv so much that it ended up being a great and fun experience.

How do you juggle being an actor and a model? It’s pretty easy to balance because modeling is much more steady. Act- ing is my passion and what I want to be doing in life. But I’m happy doing both because they put me in front of a camera, it’s not a job sitting behind a desk, which is something I would never do. I love modeling because it gives me the opportunity to make writing and making movies my full-time job.

If you could choose your dream job/role, what would it be? It would be to write, produce and star in a big-budget movie. I would love to work with the Coen brothers; they are hands down my favorite directors. That would be a dream come true, no matter what scale. Their overall style of work is where I gravitate most as an actor.

Are you currently obsessed with anything? I would say everything. But coffee — anyone that knows me will know that. I worked in a roastery in Boston for a while, and I love coffee more than anything in the world. I wake up very early every day just so I can have coffee. It’s an activity I can have fun meeting people over. MODEL CALL: I like to take the time to make it how I want it and there’s also a big culture with cool coffee shops in this country, so I find it fun to travel JEFF RYAN and find the coolest coffee shops everywhere I go.

Age: O Not a stranger to being in the Do you have any favorite 25 designers? Height: spotlight or shy about being 6’2” I really dig Billy Reid and I’m a big Hair: asked to make a million faces on fan of Todd Snyder. I walked for Dark blonde cue, model and actor Jeff Ryan is Todd Snyder before, but Billy Reid Eyes: has yet to cast me in his show, so Blue anything but ordinary. Here he how about we have a conversation Hometown: with him? Gillette, N.J. shares his experience on being Agency: VNY cast for the hit show “Orange is If you could travel anywhere, Instagram: the New Black,” his love of coffee where would it be? @justjeffryan I would love to go to Iceland; I want and a subtle message to one of to see the Northern Lights. And his favorite designers. China. Everyone asks me: “Why China?” I don’t know why but I’m By LUIS CAMPUZANO going someday. Hair: Matthew Tuozzoli for ABTP, Makeup: Javier Romero Makeup: ABTP, for Tuozzoli Hair: Matthew

Photograph by RYAN PFLUGER WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, NO. 2 37 38

JANUARY 2016, No. 2 AGENDA

WWD.COM Makeover John Barrett andJim Hedges are outto reinvent the turn Barrett into an international luxe brand. high-end salonbusinessand intheprocess,high-end Luxury Luxury By By PETER BORN Photographs by by THOMAS IANNACCONE Jim Hedges W hairdressers theyneeded atthesalonalongwith which madeitdifficulttorecruit thehigh-level from Edgenerator,without waterand noise aCon outside thewindows,street construction 12days by physical and unexpected delays disruptions like Butitwasbeset Goodman. inal baseatBergdorf first stepontotheNew York scenebeyond orig- his living —openedinOctober, upstairs asBarrett’s Jane Russell, Lauren Hutton andHelen Hayes once merly Theaterwith thesite of theBowery Lane drawing board. signature salons eitherinoperation oronthe New York flagship, there are four freestanding salons andspasby year-end 2017, includingthe of15 in-store Barrett fortheconstruction calls allthesalons. tostaff desirable talent thequestion ofwhereplan is tofindenoughhighly Raton,Fla.,inearly December.branch inBoca rett salonwasopenedinsideaSaksFifthAvenue could begenerating $50millioninrevenue. ABar- estimate thatwithinafewyears theoperation does notbreak sources outprojections, industry Washington andTexas. Althoughthecompany alone salons,mainly inNewYork, SouthFlorida, years. focuswillbeoncreating stand- Theprimary on theway). (not thathehasn’t already hadonewithanother licensing Barrett’s nameoutforashampoo line generated from thesalonsthemselves ratherthan businessinwhichservice therevenues are mainly or even Vidal Sassoon—Hedge’s goal tobuilda is own salons—thinkFrédéric Fekkai, John Frieda out withtheir who started brands by famedstylists brand. Whilethemarket filledwithhair-care is along theway, turnBarrett intoaglobal luxury reinvent conventional and doctrine salonindustry investor.a private equity goal to aboldone: His is expansion beingorchestrated push by is Hedges, U.S. andbeyond. the groundwork forastringofunitsacross the finely curated,more retail-driven —while laying the luxury salon—makingitmore inviting, more areLLC, outtoreinvent thebusinessmodelof and chiefexecutive officerofJohn Barrett Holdings there’s books. coffee-table ofAssouline astack to more than$30,000 foragold model.Then play ofvintage Rolex from —priced watches $1,500 allowed thebrand.Nearby adis- stands tocarry and fragrance—Barrett theonly salonchain is Then there ofTom are cases thetwo Ford beauty names, suchasRichard Avedon andAndy Warhol. Moss andJohnny Depp —taken by equally familiar —Madonna,Cindyfamiliar faces Crawford, Kate thewallfullofblown-up is photosof one notices on Manhattan’s Street Bond andthefirstthing Johnalk intothenewatrium-shaped Barrett salon The Bowery and Bond Street location —for- StreetThe Bowery andBond location In additiontoadealwithSaksFifthAvenue that Clearly, onechallenge suchanambitious facing foropening25salonswithinfivePlans call Barrett remains thecreative force, butthe Barrett andJimHedges, businesspartner his It’s isn’t clear this your average hairsalon. can go orherowncan withouthis hair-care line, of 2016. naillacquerof aprivate-label lineinthefirst half nail treatments. Now she’s helpingstage alaunch with Barrett todevelop acustomizedmenu of Tracylee Percival, teamed director ofnailservices, three core are facials offered. Nailenamelguru has atreatment room intheupper level, where Tammylocation. Fender SkinCare ofHolistic about ahairdo on display Street is at theBond on board.” ers thatwe all alongare anticipated now jumping agreed, saying, hairdress- “Someofthesignificant haveand “we every confidence,”hesaid.Barrett year this areedged. starting Butsixnewstylists their clientele. And since no famous self-respecting hairstylist And sincenofamous self-respecting hairstylist brand,Dr.A neworal-care Apa, hasbeenadded. Hedges’ tomake strategy salonsmore thanjust Hedges“It hasbeenaslow start,” acknowl- affluent, luxury-drivenaffluent, come to us.The brand is sogloballyis known.” Jim Hedges “These are very“These customers who , JohnBarrett Holdings handbags, watches, footwear,handbags, watches, Tom Ford beauty ofitemsforsale,including vintage collection DanielRomualdez,architect andaboutiquelike salons have aclubby ambience,thanksto English andclientele,thenew staff between istry unit. Palm Beach revenues, theyhave soared to30percent atthe tions average only 10percent ofasalon’s total transac- sales ofproductandothernon-service where Inanindustry for thenewretail concept. February 2015, which hasserved as atemplate salon outsideNewYork Fla.,in inPalmBeach, name. his a saloninthepenthousefor20years andmade where Barrett hashad somehow withBergdorf’s, ofremaining aligned cussion aboutthepossibility quarter. According tosources, there somedis- is salon intheU.S., probably openinginthefourth lived. Barrett claimsitwillbethelargest luxury West 56thStreet, where Taylor Elizabeth once 16,000-square-foot, six-floor town houseat10 there willbethe Barrett flagship, ina situated 3,600 square feetandhold37 to40chairs.Then expected around unit, Center June —willcover York salons.Thefirst—theWestfield World Trade Hedges andBarrett are more plottingtwo New keeping setforlaunch units.Itis inthesecondhalf. previous brand,which will Barrett creating anewonetoreplace alsois a Barrett’s known operationis forawarmchem- openedtheirfirstfreestanding The partners Even Street stillfindingitsniche, asBond is include about20stock- WWD.COM

JANUARY 2016, No. 2 ►

39 and Assouline books. Hedges became involved with Barrett first as a customer and over the years, he made observa- tions. Referring to a typical client, he said, “The lady comes to us habitually. She is spending a lot of time, 45 minutes to three hours as a typical AGENDA spectrum of time.” He noted that in a typical salon, women are on their phone or staring at a wet magazine. Instead, he believes women should be using their time in a salon to solve problems that come with looking beautiful.

n a bricks-and-mortar situation, the expe- rience is all important, he said. “You’re solving problems you have to solve and you want to do it in as elegant a way as I possible. But you also need to make sure that when you come into this environment you are going to feel smart, you are going to learn something, you are going to feel titillated and chal- lenged. That’s nonexistent in the salon industry.” With the lavish books and other high-priced objects on sale, Hedges’ goal is to create an envi- ronment that stimulates customers “with things they don’t normally get in a beauty environment,” he said. That goes for even small things. “In Palm Beach, my lady is giving or going to a dinner party. She needs a hostess gift or note cards.” He pointed out that those items are available in the salon, along with the Assouline books, tabletop merchandise and candles. “They run out the door,” he stated, noting that the Palm Beach unit also sells vintage handbags from Hermès, Balmain MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT and Balenciaga priced as high as $25,000. Inside the Bond Street salon. Also in the salon is a collection of vintage Rolex watches. “In the last eight weeks, we have sold eight pieces,” Barrett said. Hedges added that 11 He tends to describe the retail transactions as After two decades at Bergdorf’s, Barrett has not MARCH 23, 2016 • NEW YORK CITY vintage Hermès bags were sold in six weeks. filling a need and making his customers happy. But only created a following but a constituency. One of his key business strategies is develop- there are subtleties to master. “It’s a delicate bal- “These are very affluent, luxury-driven cus- ing collaborations with suppliers of pricy mer- ance between solving problems and exciting [the tomers who come to us,” Hedges said. “[It’s] a chandise. In planning the Bond Street salon, it customer]. I say, sometimes crassly, that we’re in business that has built a reputation with ladies was decided to fill a huge wall with salon style the business of solving problems for the wealthy.” from Texas, from Palm Beach, from Miami, from artwork. So a partnership was formed with Circa He conceded that generally within the industry Jeddah, [Saudi Arabia,] from Oman, from London, 1881, which supplies nine large art photos chosen there has been a longstanding resistance from from Singapore, from Taipei. The brand is so by Hedges who also has a background in the art hairdressers, who see themselves as artists, not globally known and so pervasive in luxury — super world, and put up for sale. A large portrait showing salesmen. luxury-affluent customers — that it’s amazing in its Moss and Depp stretched out was taken by Annie “They are artists,” he agreed. “But it doesn’t breadth and reach.” Leibovitz and carries a price tag of $66,000. mean an artist can’t be in the business of solving He added, “It’s a global luxury customer.” The relationship with Assouline books is problems for his or her client. If you say, ‘This The potential inspired Hedges to speculate that another collaboration. Basically all high-end color would just make your look pop’ or ‘If you get international expansion will focus on the Gulf luxury merchandise — the jewelry, watches and this hair-growth serum for your brows, it will just States of the Middle East, Asia and London. vintage fashion — are on consignment. Tom Ford open up your eyes,’ that is problem-solving that The interpersonal chemistry between staff and other beauty brands, along with accessories is authentic and credible for a technician to do.” member and client is what drives the operation. and home products, are not. “It starts with how we treat one another,” said John Demsey, executive group president at Hedges, “how you take care of yourself, how you the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., said the relationship treat your colleagues [and] how you treat the cus- started in Barrett’s Bergdorf Goodman penthouse tomer. The business comes from that.” salon, which was populated by many of New York’s Barrett added, “We have a very careful training high-fashion and high-society women. Demsey [program]. It’s called JB Cares. It doesn’t matter said Hedges came to Lauder with a proposal to who you are interacting with — the housekeeper sell Tom Ford in the salons and he was “delight- or the hairdresser. Everybody has a very caring, fully surprised” at the amount of merchandise nurturing attitude. That all stems from the fact sold through, considering that it was a hair salon, when I moved to New York, I was kind of shocked not a store. He didn’t say how much, but noted at the attitude that many hairdressers had, where that the Ford brand is committed to the Barrett they would keep you waiting. They wouldn’t listen distribution. to you. Generally the [customer’s] complaint is ‘he PRESENTING SPONSOR didn’t listen, or she didn’t listen.’ emsey pointed out that there is “A huge part of our training is to carefully lis- FIRST INSIGHT plenty of precedent where major ten, take your ego out of it,” Barrett continued. brands were first sold in salons, “There’s no question that “There’s no question that the pampering and including Bobbi Brown, MAC Cos- the pampering and service has to be second to none, and then you summits.wwd.com metics and Estée Lauder itself. As can be in a luxury environment, where it can be D ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, [email protected], 646.356.4719 for the business model, the con- service has to be second to like Maxfield, [in Los Angeles] where you see stuff signment deals are key profit generators because and say, ‘Oh wow, I didn’t know I need that but the 35 to 45 percent margins are much higher on none, and then you can I really need that.’[Staff members] are just there the special merchandise than on salon services — be in a luxury environment.” to help you, they are there to make you feel good which tend to top out at 15 percent, according to and to make sure that your time is respected.” ■ EVENT SPONSOR

industry sources. Hedges had no comment. John Barrett — With contributions from Julie Naughton Thomas Iannaccone by Salon photographs FAIRCHILD SUMMITS ANNUAL 40 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM PARTNERS Here, clockwise from top: Sebastian Schettler, Benjamin Kräher and Heike Becker of Zukker. Left: Louise Friedländer. Berlin Ones Below: Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja of Tailored Antonia Goy.

AGENDA To Watch Emerging designers on show during Fashion Week. To Fit A more individualized approach is taking hold in German fashion and retail circles. By MELISSA DRIER

all it the era of the individual — as in specialized assortments and concept-store-style exhibitions. This approach is moving to the forefront at the trade fairs, Cfashion presentations and run- way shows during Berlin Fashion Week, Jan. 18 to 22. While overall economic conditions in Germany remain solid, apparel retailers and makers continue to face mounting problems. On the plus side, Ger- many’s GDP is forecast to grow by 1.6 percent in 2016. Employment and wages are on the upswing, consumer optimism is back up after a minor dip and willingness to buy is stable on a high level. “I believe Still, the nation’s fashion retailers, who struggled with diminishing traffic, heavy online competition that German and spending patterns not necessarily favoring fashion. Though up against fairly weak comps, fashion needs unseasonably warm weather put a dent in holiday cheerleaders and winter sales. The German Apparel Retailers Association now expects final 2015 numbers to and support, come in flat, if not slightly down, said associate and I’m a Zukker sturdy backdrop to forms director Siegfried Jacobs. both boxy and billowing. DESIGNERS: Heike Becker, Zukker produces in With too much — and too much of the same — cheerleader.” Benjamin Kräher and Germany with European merchandise on the market, Jacobs sees a trend Daniel Wingate, Escada Sebastian Scheduler fabrics, and is sold in a few toward more individualized assortments. This could FOUNDED: 2012 stores in Berlin, one in St. be good news for smaller, independent labels and BASED IN: Leipzig, Germany Barths, and at the brand’s designers who traditionally have a hard time captur- Arp, the Salon’s other cofounder. And from a retail of the participating designers. As for the official SHOWING: Mercedes-Benz atelier. Prices start at 150 ing German retailers’ attention. But for the stores, standpoint, “you don’t need a 50,000-euro budget, 50 show/stage presentation lineup, Baldessarini is Fashion Week Berlin euros ($165) for blouses, he pointed out, this also means more concentration but 5,000” to make it happen, she pointed out. joining broader-distribution players like Marc Cain, Runway 450 euros ($494) for jackets life partner Björn Kubeja, on the actual buy, and improving in-store presenta- Introduced last season, Show & Order’s Fran- Riani and Laurèl this season, but there will also BACKSTORY: Like a tripod, and 2,000 euros ($2,194) for a trained architect, who Louise the three legs of Leipzig- coats. — SUSAN STONE tion. With these aims, some are looking to borrow cophile SO area curated by Sophie Guyot is being be a number of young German designer debuts, based Zukker keep the joined the brand in 2009, Friedländer concept-store tactics, and Berlin’s fair organizers expanded for fall with new labels such as Douce including Sample-CM or Louise Friedlander and can be found off-the-beaten label balanced. DESIGNER: Louise are out to help with new initiatives. Gloire, Hironaé Paris and Then Paris, said fair visiting designers like Spain’s Xavi Reyes. path in an airy industrial Friedländer For the more volume-oriented, mainstream founder Verena Malta. The heart of the action, however, has a decid- The trio met while Antonia Goy zone atelier sought out FOUNDED: 2013 O market, Panorama is launching Nova, a separate, Soren Kishgewitz, founder of the new children’s edly German accent, and in its third go-round, studying fashion at Halle’s DESIGNER: Antonia Goy by established clients for BASED IN: Berlin 80,000-square-foot hall devoted to more direc- fair Cookies, also noted “there’s a trade show trend the Berliner Mode Salon’s group presentation of Burg Giebichenstein Univer- FOUNDED: 2006 private shopping. SHOWING: Mercedes-Benz sity of Art and Design in BASED IN: Berlin This season, she’ll present Fashion Week Berlin tional or specialized fashion brands, plus lifestyle toward the fair as concept store. Cookies offers a pal- emerging and more established German design- eastern Germany. Now SHOWING: Berliner Mode at the Berliner Mode Salon. BACKSTORY: Louise and non-fashion articles. “Retailers want inspira- ette of all relevant brands in our sector, but also asso- ers has grown to 50 participants. These will fill in its fifth season, Zukker Salon Key looks draw from martial Friedlaender aims to give tion. With Nova, we’re creating a concept-store ciated products such as maternity and play style.” the Kronprinzenpalais with capsule still-life and/ and military influences, aims for strong statement BACKSTORY: Many labels tradition a fashion spin. and ribbons only at sec- line of sculptural gold and environment out of recycled materials that not Indeed, with its contemporary and urbanwear or informal presentations on models of their fall channeled through a lens silhouettes punctuated dream of a flagship retail ond glance. Muted colors, silver mélanges, a part- collections. New to the ranks: Escada, with creative of protection and comfort only reflects the pop-up fashion culture, but can core, Berlin’s fair scene has offered a curated, with wry humor. For fall, presence, but for Antonia OInstead of settling in a black and dark wintery nership with her goldsmith be inexpensively implemented,” said Panorama lifestyle assortment touching on music, art, hand- director Daniel Wingate creating a lineup of the 20 they take loose inspiration Goy, the decision to close especially desired after the bustling district of young tones of blue, green and mother Barbara Fried- top looks culled from the in-house show Escada is from competitive cycling, up shop after nearly a Paris attacks. Functional people, the 2012 Esmod red, punctuate the aes- laender and, at times, with founder Jörg Wichmann. picked home accessories and food from the very including the polka-dot decade meant stepping and decorative uniform graduate, now 28, suitably thetic understatement. fellow young designers like At the opposite end of the spectrum, the German start. “For us, it’s the basis for everything we do,” staging in Aschheim Jan. 18. jerseys worn by racers back could be a way of elements pop up on classic moved into a 19th-century “It’s an homage to Bobby Kolade. designer platform — the Berliner (Mode) Salon — is said Thomas Martini, codirector of Bright, the “I believe that German fashion needs cheerlead- most skilled at climbing, moving forward. shapes like the bomber industrial compound in my grandmother — a A standard blouse retails also tapping into a wider product mix in its third board sports and streetwear fair that now shares a ers and support, and I’m a cheerleader,” Wingate dubbed “King” or “Queen of and blazer, remixed in fine remote — and very bour- disciplined, confident, yet for between 280 and season. While plans to install a “Salon of Small venue with Seek and also belongs to the Premium declared. “We can all help each other, plus for fabrics. Tough is tempered the Mountains.” Those bike- OGoy founded her name- geois — Zehlendorf. always chic woman who 450 euros (about $310 Things” in the nearby Palais am Festungsgraben Exhibitions Group. “We try to show how the life- Escada, the Salon allows us to show a different side by transparency, cocooning a-dots appear as cutouts in sake label in 2005 after She focuses on the vir- helped form my image of to $495), more complex has been pushed back until the summer round, style is lived. It’s essential to streetwear.” of the brand.” a delicate sheer on a fitted graduating from Berlin’s forms, and delicate digital tues of discipline, precision beauty,” she explained. ones cost 500 to 1,500 a handful of German product designers, offer- As such, in the way that Berlin’s on-the-street Quite a few young designers will only be present- shirtdress, or aerodynamic Weissensee School of Art, flower prints on silks. and quality, building her “I want to make some- euros ($550 to 1,645), collars on zip-up blouses. opening a shop and launch- Fabric and production for concept of contemporary thing sustainable. I took coats are 1,300 to 4,800 ing everything from wooden benches to fragile looks provided inspiration in the earliest days of ing at the four-hour Berliner Mode Salon exhibition. Technical fabrics comprise ing a year later. Her well-cut, are sourced from Europe. women’s wear on German time to refine my signature euros ($1,425 to $5,265), drinking glasses, will already be included in the groundbreaking shows Premium and Bread & But- Others, like Bobby Kolade, one of Berlin’s most prom- a black bow-belted raincoat feminine pieces were cov- Prices run from 255 to 550 traditions. She concen- before showing at Berlin bags trade at 700 to 4,800 Kronprinzenpalais group presentation on Jan. 20. ter, the German capital today is also concept-store ising young talents and hottest show tickets, is trying and a full skirt. eted by fashion insiders, but euros ($280 to $600) for trates on revived local Fashion Week for the first euros ($770 to $5,265) “Our mission is to connect German designers central, housing genre pioneers and trendsetters something different. On Monday, the day before Coats are oversize or running the store left little tops, 390 to 800 euros Berlin and Brandenburg time last year and I’m still and jewelry starts at 600 to retailers, ,” explained the platform’s cofounder, like Andreas Murkudis, Voo, Super (Market), Soto, Berlin Fashion Week officially starts, he’s inviting 20 cropped, and color- blocked time. Determined to make ($425 to $875) for dresses, handicrafts of weaving taking time to develop ($660) for the standard and 715 to 1,300 euros ($785 Marcus Kurz. “These retailers are not only looking Gestalten, Happy Shop, The Corner and, in the editors to one-to-one meetings “where we can chat in earth and sky tones — collections and commerce, and knitting, contrasting long-term relationships line and 1,800 ($1,975) for to discover new designers, but also little items to broadest sense, Departmentstore Quartier 206. about the collection and where it’s going. Before, I some trimmed with fake Goy mostly skipped Berlin’s to $1,425) for coats. The line them with sturdy wool and with my collaborators and the luxury group. fox, others double-breasted fashion weeks, putting is sold in shops in China, Indian pearl embroidery. visit every workshop we’re “It’s bold to start at such feed the interest of consumers.” As for runway shows, Mercedes-Benz Fashion almost felt we were doing the shows for ourselves with megabuttons. A favor- time into international Japan, Australia, the U.S., The cuts are geometric working with.” a high stake,” she said, “but “The concept of the future is the concept store, Week Berlin is touching more bases than ever, and and bloggers, as buyers unfortunately were rare. But ite material, Danish Kvadrat trade shows. These days, and the brand’s Web site. and sleek, revealing details Her most precious I want to create lasting where the customer is surprised at every visit with in a new move, there will be showrooms in the this is for the people who count. Plus, frankly, we just — SUSAN STONE furnishing fabrics, give a Goy and her business and such as dainty buttons collaboration is a jewelry value.” — QUYNH TRAN Brade Nikolaus by Matti Hillig; Zukker by and Friedländer photographs Goy something they want to buy,” added Christiane Stage area in the Me Collectors Room for several don’t have the time for a show,” he said. ■

42 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM Illustration by TANAWAT SAKDAWISARAK Kate Bosworth and Georgina Chapman at The Weinstein Co. and Netflix after party.

Selena Gomez in J.Mendel at The Weinstein Co. and Netflix after party. Jennifer Jason Leigh in Roland Mouret with Todd Haynes at The Weinstein Co. and Netflix after party.

Taraji P. Henson at the InStyle after party. Gold Mine After the shiny statutes were handed out on Sunday night, celebrities of all varieties scattered to Orlando Bloom and Sunrise Coigney different corners of the Beverly Hilton Hotel, where the with Mark Ruffalo in Valentino at the Jaime King and InStyle after party. Michelle Monaghan starriest after parties were being thrown by Weinstein Sir Patrick Stewart with Malin Akerman and Thomas Reem Acra at The Jennifer Lopez Middleditch at the Weinstein Co. and at the InStyle Co. and Netflix, InStyle and Warner Bros., and HBO. HBO after party. Netflix after party. after party. Rachel Bloom Kourtney Kardashian in Christian just look at each other and say, and the music is good. This is the in Julien MacDonald Once the 73rd An- Christian Slater. “I’m trying to find Siriano at the ‘You’re amazing. Thank you for spot to be,” the model said. She with Kylie Jenner in SUN nual Golden Globes had my wife,” he said, navigating the HBO after party. doing what you do.’ We deserve was one of the first to showcase LaBourjoisie at the JAN. wrapped, the Beverly Hil- cavernous venue. that once in a while. Nobody pays her moves on the dance floor as InStyle after party. 10 ton Hotel became party Over at HBO’s post-show attention to us.” well as first to arrive hours earlier central. At InStyle and festivities, Vince Vaughn, Rachel Surprise Best Actress in a for the viewing party, sponsored Warner Bros.’ bash, Best Sup- McAdams, Viola Davis, Harrison Musical or Comedy TV Series by Marie Claire. In a far-off corner porting Actor winner Sylvester Ford, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Jon winner Rachel Bloom was eager behind heavy security, Katy Perry Stallone was the first to arrive, Hamm and Julia Louis-Dreyfus to share her trophy with every- and Orlando Bloom were seen clutching his trophy and accom- were among the stars who kept one. “It’s surprisingly heavy. Hold sharing a laugh in Weinstein’s panied by his three daughters and the party going. Fan favorite it!” she insisted. sectioned-off booth while at a wife, all of whom paused to take “Game of Thrones” may not For “Nightingale” star David neighboring table, America Fer- a family selfie before hitting the have taken home any prizes, but Oyelowo, having a night off was rera and Mia Moretti chatted the black carpet. “This night, this mo- its star Emilia Clarke still came celebration enough. “What are night away. ment means everything,” he said. ready to party. “This is actually we doing tonight, babe?” he Although the DJ played “Let’s Best Actress in a dramatic my second dress. My first one asked his wife. “We’re staying out. Dance” as an ode to the late Da- role Brie Larson was next, already had a train that was, like, lethal for Someone else is looking after the vid Bowie, there were quite a few wearing a pair of jelly shoes myself and anyone around me,” kids in the morning,” she said. “We who spent much of the evening while a handler carried her heels. she said. “It was definitely worth have four,” he added. “So we’re taking a load off, like Aziz Ansari, It may have been practically it, but now I’m going to be moving, going to party like it’s 1999.” Jonah Hill and Andy Samberg, pitch-black inside the party, but so I need my legs.” Others, including Angela Bas- who shared a couch for most the celebs still managed to find Meanwhile, the “Transparent” sett, Nikki Reed, Ian Somerhalder, of the night. As she posed for a their friends. Channing Tatum pack was in a joking mood. “I Mark Ruffalo, Morgan Freeman quick fan photo with Uzo Aduba and Jenna Dewan-Tatum chatted was just saying what a relief it and Helen Mirren, made The and Taryn Manning, “Orange up Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is that Hollywood finally gets a Weinstein Co. and Netflix’s annual is the New Black” star Taylor Uzo Aduba with and Jason Statham. Kate Hudson night to, like, acknowledge itself,” after party their first stop of the Schilling noted, “It’s all good; now Katy Perry in Taylor Schilling in fell into deep conversation with said Gaby Hoffmann. “It’s always night. “I love Harvey because he’s that I’m with my crew the party is Prada at The Thakoon at The Adam McKay. The same couldn’t about the teachers and the activ- Matt Baron/Rex/Shutterstock Michael Buckner/Rex/Shutterstock; Boye/Rex/Shutterstock; Tyler by Photographs always supported me,” Chanel amazing.” — MARCY MEDINA, ERICKA Weinstein Co. Weinstein Co. and be said for Best Actor winner ists. Finally, a night where we can Iman gushed. “The energy is alive FRANKLIN AND LINDZI SCHARF and Netflix Netflix after party. after party. TYRH Photographs by Andrew Walker/Rex/Shutterstock; Jonathan Leibson/Getty Images; Media Punch/Rex/Shutterstock; Images; Media Punch/Rex/Shutterstock; Jonathan Leibson/Getty Walker/Rex/Shutterstock; Andrew by Photographs Perfect/Rex/Shutterstock Picture Matt Baron/BEI/Shutterstock; Chelsea Lauren/Variety/Rex/Shutterstock;

WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 45 Report Card

Striking Gold: Designer Darlings Rooney, Whether in a contractual relationship or not, the Hollywood starlets and the fashion houses that love them seamlessly achieved fashion-celebrity Alicia and Jennifer Earn Their Keep symbiosis at Sunday’s Golden Globes.

DShe knows the DThe ultratextured DThe dress has D Finally, Leo DThe hair and DHe’s one of the DHer hair is overly DHe should give wonders a smoky hair resembles a enough volume — no DiCaprio looks makeup play off the sexiest men in coiffed — a less an extra tip to eye does for her bird’s nest. A more need to also pump like a movie star Twenties, flapper Hollywood and this prim updo would’ve his hairstylist for peepers and the low masculine cut up the hair. The pink again. The sleek feel of the dress, elegant shawl- been more age- achieving this ponytail tied at the would give him a lips and tasseled hairstyle suits his though we wish she collar tuxedo hugs appropriate. natural-looking nape of her neck is modern edge. earrings also make newly chiseled face. opted for a wine- him in all the right volume. It plays very DThe architectural modern and chic; the look a bit too If he would only or plum-colored places. The strong well with his full DRedmayne is vibe of the gown we’ll even forgive a consummate matchy-matchy. shave his Nineties lipstick. It would shoulder, together is rightly matched beard. the outdated ombré goatee. have felt more with the slim fashionista. DPoints for taking by the statement DThe skinny peak dye job. sophisticated. silhouette of The geometric a risk, but this look DThe diamond collar lapel might be the smoking D The necklace patterned silk (bubblegum pink, professionally DIt’s astonishing piece. It’s regal. updated, but in a is a regal touch. blazer screams fringy and structure- tied bow tie how few prints jacket, is the man of his body eveningwear, less) skews way too shows he (never mind a right choice. type, a wider lapel but it’s a little too precious and too understands metallic one) are But when DIt was a foregone would be more DThe whole look formfitting. A more girly — especially that successful seen on the red paired with conclusion that she becoming. is very sensual yet relaxed silhouette for someone men’s style is all carpet. This one the small hand- would wear Dior and tasteful. Oxblood would be less like Cate, who in the details. feels somehow tied bow tie and a for good reason — is her color. It may affected. can really rock vintage and modern hint of white pocket she looks great. The D The vintage DThe perfectly not be the most the borrowed- at the same time. square, it’s ideal. dress is sculptural, Jordan 11 sneakers interesting or DSimple, straight fitted tuxedo futuristic and chic. are very cool, but from-the-boys The corsage adds DThe pants sit innovative garment and black is an has enough On anyone else, they would be more elegant choice look. We wish she structure without to the vibe. She’s a little lower and on the carpet, but it went for something quietly chic. make the whole look hot red and white appropriate for gets the job done. for the pants. overpowering him, blonde might read his best friend’s They downplay less frou-frou. and the shorter modern and not costumey — that’s “Baywatch.” wedding, not the the pattern of the silhouette of the Golden Globes. blazer. blazer works well what makes the B B+ C+ A-with his body type. B+ outfitA excellent. A- B-

Olivia Wilde Eddie Redmayne Cate Blanchett Leonardo DiCaprio Maggie Gyllenhaal Michael Fassbender Jennifer Lawrence Jason Sudeikis isher/REX/Shutterstock; Larson, Vikander and Klum by Buck- and Klum by Vikander Larson, isher/REX/Shutterstock;

DThe hair isn’t all DNothing is more DThe slick hair DThe combination David Fisher/REX/ by Gaga and Mara Lady Sudeikis, ce, DWe love a messy DThe platinum DJon Hamm D The total lack of that exciting, but the flattering than a and scruffy beard of a clean updo and ponytail as much as waves, the dark was born to wear accessories works, side part and easy carefully calibrated work well with a hefty earring was the next person, but brows, the pale skin tailored clothing. considering the waves balance the spray tan. Bravo to very traditional full the right idea but there’s too much — she’s serving up This boring tuxedo dress’ skin-tone hue. high-wattage glitz her beauty team. tuxedo, but when the earring choice of a disconnect some major Marilyn does nothing to She’s going bare. of her dress. She’s Plus, the makeup is paired with the itself (baby pink and between Natalie’s Monroe, and we’re elevate his already D This is stunning. also right to have very natural. athletic mirrored superblingy) is a bedhead and her on board. (Never high sexy factor. It’s romantic, kept her jewelry to a sunglasses, they misstep. uberformal dress. mind that Madonna Plus, the flat bow melancholic and a minimum. cheapen the look. Combined with the did it first.) tie is such an DRazzle-dazzle touch grunge. The DThere’s a flower earrings, it obvious clip-on DA golden dress DThe tux seems needs to be done DThe nipped-in technical elements sweetness to this reads more high that Bozo might for a Golden (Globe- that we like. Maybe a bit small for his with a disciplined waist countered (e.g. the shredded, winning) girl. The frame, and the lack hand and this school prom than with an off- want to borrow tiered skirt and it’s the pinafore Hollywood award it for his next revealing cutouts silhouette or the of a tie or bow tie tinsel-feather shoulder neckline slivered cutouts) and chain-link only adds to the explosion needs to show. and exaggerated gig. A double- are intricate and fluttery neckline, breasted vest neckline add a bit but it looks like she sloppy factor. be reined in. There’s DIf her goal was to hips create a very beautiful. The of edge and tapers something very match the carpet, figure-flattering is what makes undone quality was just frolicking a three-piece down the retro in the Italian obvious and broad she succeeded. But shape, but the of this is almost DOrthopedic tuxedo work. factor. She looks countryside. The about it (perhaps that’s the only thing black velvet dystopian in feel, like a movie star — a sneakers are so the sparkle she accomplished. gown feels too old Here, it does in a very current daintyness of the anxiety-inducing nothing to make the contemporary one. dress is grounded factor paired with We imagine this is lady for her. way. The fierce, that we need a the cleavage- what some poor outfit look chicer, severe braid by the sequined Xanax to get past DHer iced out it just breaks the stripes, which add showcasing cut) bridesmaid would wrists and talon ponytail has that D We wish the them. We’re sorry visual line. an eveningwear — like something a be forced to wear nails are fitting for a postapocolyptic sequins didn’t fade you have back “Real Housewife” to a “GoT”-themed thing, too. She’s a out at the bottom element. It’s like a problems, but pop star. luxury version of an might wear to a wedding. warrior (in couture). — heightening please buy a pair of reunion special. platforms are better eyelet prairie dress. proper dress shoes. B+left unseen. A D C- D B- B A+ ner/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; Gervais by John Shearer/Getty Images John Shearer/Getty by Gervais ner/Variety/REX/Shutterstock; Brie Larson Alicia Vikander Ricky Gervais Heidi Klum Natalie Dormer Lady Gaga Jon Hamm Rooney Mara Shutterstock; Hamm by Buckner/Variety/REX/Shutterstock Hamm by Shutterstock; Gyllenhaal photograph by Variety/REX/Shutterstock; Fassbender by REX/Shutterstock; Dormer by Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; Lawren Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; Dormer by REX/Shutterstock; by Fassbender Variety/REX/Shutterstock; by Gyllenhaal photograph TYRH David F by Blanchett Jim Smeal/BEI/Shutterstock; by and DiCaprio photographs Redmayne REX/Shutterstock; by Wilde photograph

46 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 47 Board room CELEBRITIES ARE TRYING THEIR HAND AT BUSINESS, MOVING FROM HOLLYWOOD Famous TOWARD WALL STREET. By EVAN CLARK and MARCY MEDINA Illustration by LUIS GRAÑENA

48 JANUARY 2016 No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 49 name carries what’s known as “key-man risk.” Much of the in and say, ‘How can we be equity owners?’” enterprise’s reputation can be tied up with the individuals While some have written checks to take a stake in a com- Call it phase three of the and, while people are always fallible, celebrities are under pany, Schinman says most are trading their social currency both a microscope and extreme pressure to perform. for equity. They have to exude authenticity while knowing how to turn “I think it’s working for some and for others, not so much,” celebrity invasion. ¶ First, their own personal brand into something that can promote he says. “There’s always a risk, whether you’re a celebrity or a product to the masses, while actually getting said product not, starting a business…a lot of it has to do with timing.” to those masses. The only real way to know if a celebrity has the business they were in front of the It’s been a step-by-step process with many iterations along gene is to give it a shot. the way. “Skyline” actor Eric Balfour and his wife, Erin Chiamulon, “People have gone from being ambassadors to entrepre- launched a yoga line called Electric & Rose in 2014, when camera, taking big paydays neurs,” Barrymore says. “With each new decade or genera- they were still engaged. It was not as a vanity project but as tion, things evolve and I think the door has been opened by a labor of love. some very smart people….You could say Elizabeth Taylor “There was an innate passion from both of us,” he says. to pitch products. ¶ Then opened the door for Sarah Jessica Parker when she went into “We both live in Venice, [Calif.], and surf and do yoga and fragrance. You could say Jessica Alba has opened the door spend time outdoors. Clearly, there’s no lack of workout to never underestimating what an actress can do. Gwyneth clothes, but even lines that brand themselves as fashion and they were in the design Paltrow was a very early person on [the lifestyle scene with] fitness felt stale in some way. We wanted to tell a real lifestyle Goop. You can smell the difference between a name slap and story. And if you want to build your own brand, in my opin- that person who’s really trying to build a company.” ion, you have to own it. When it’s your money — in my case, studio, giving hands-on Barrymore is working hard to deliberately grow her busi- my life savings — it becomes very real.” ness, moving from color cosmetics to glasses and thinking Balfour says running an apparel company exercises a mus- about how watches could fit in. cle he doesn’t get to flex often in acting, an industry where inspiration for capsule “You go out, you go big, you grow too fast and you’re always studios or producers typically call the shots. “As an actor kind of grasping,” she says. “If you do it carefully and thought- your only real power is to say no. As a business owner, your fully, I think it’s a better process. You can be a celebrity all success is solely dependent on you.” collections, or testing top day long, but what you have to realize is that it’s only going to open the door to get a meeting and maybe try something e’s not alone in wanting more control. out in the world of goods. It’s really about how you use your “More and more of our clients are notes for their fragrances. opportunity and do you have the goods to back it up.” interested in having an ownership stake,” Bond girl Berry also stressed the necessity of putting in says Peter Hess, who founded Creative the work at Scandale, an 80-year-old Parisian luxury linge- Artist Agency’s commercial division with ¶ Now, they’re entering rie label she’s invested in. Ahead of the brand’s launch in HSteve Lashever more than 15 years ago. Target in 2014, she said: “You have to really want to do it. “Where we are with new media and It’s time-consuming. You have to work hard at it. Along with the ability to reach more consumers directly, it’s trending the boardroom, taking the career you already have, it’s another job, if you will, that with clients wanting to be involved with their fan base, and you’re tackling. Not everybody has the desire to do that, but reaching them with other things they can provide,” Hess says. I’m certainly not the first.” Lashever adds: “Passion as it relates to building a business equity stakes, founding Paltrow sounded decidedly business-y and down in the around our clients is one of the most critical elements. Time weeds as she talked about her first New York Goop Mrkt is precious and clients have their core business to focus on. pop-up late last year. “One would think New York City would They really have to roll up their sleeves and invest the time businesses and getting be the first location for a pop-up, and that is precisely why if they want to be successful at other businesses.” we waited,” she said. “What started as an experiment has “Chicago P.D.” actor Sophia Bush partnered with beauty become a viable business for us. We wanted to get the New entrepreneur Randi Shinder in “I Smell Great,” an online into the nitty-gritty of York location operating at another level, which it will be, from hair, bath and body line, in which she’s an equal stakeholder. “You can smell a design and merchandising standpoint.” Bush is also an active investor in several Internet start-ups, Star Cache Aniston bought into hair-care brand Living Proof and helps including the car service juggernaut Uber. the difference As celebrities leverage their names and faces on products operations. oversee development and creative marketing direction. “Who “I never wanted to be the face of someone else’s product,” — and now in the corporate boardroom — a quick look at doesn’t want to have equity, especially at a company that is in she says. “If I am going to represent something it’s because between a which ones trended up last week reveals a mix of rookies its beginning stages?” she told WWD’s Beauty CEO Summit, I have a hand in it.” Bush describes most of her business name slap and and old-timers. From a business perspective, this list of neatly summing up the emerging movement. ventures as “elevator tech” or companies that create innova- stars can resonate with Millennial, Gen-Xer and Boomer Celebrities are not only looking to be more directly tion and efficiency in peoples’ lives. The use of science and that person consumers alike and includes fashion veterans and trend- involved in capitalizing on their fame, they are taking part in technology in creating the I Smell Great line “is really what setters Gwen Stefani (the number-one gainer this week) and Diane Keaton, as well as “Star Wars” newcomers Daisy Jessica Alba is the poster child, having cofounded The a larger societal movement. This is the moment of the entre- lights me up,” she says. who’s really Ridley and Adam Driver. Presidential candidate Donald Honest Company, which raised $100 million in August. She’s preneur, with billion-dollar businesses started in dorm rooms For Shinder, Bush’s social network and her engagement trying to build a Trump tops the list of men. also gotten her feet wet as an executive with a much-covered and people of means with a platform and an idea looking to level with fans, combined with her passion for beauty and The celebrities are ranked by sister publication Variety, consumer controversy, having parried with grassroots cam- get into the action — the Ladies Who Launch are overtaking business savvy, made her an ideal partner. The actress has company.” which uses a familiarity metric called the Vscore. paigns claiming the brand’s SPF 30 sunscreen fell dangerously the Ladies Who Lunch. 1.8 million Instagram and 1.2 million Twitter followers. “I — ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ Drew Barrymore, Flower short. But there are more. Drew Barrymore is expanding her The famous are also feeling out the potential of their wasn’t looking to partner with anyone, let alone an actress,” Flower business at Wal-Mart; Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen now-direct link to fans online. she says. “But Sophia really walks the walk. She’s always on Variety’s Vscores have built fashion cred with The Row; Jessica Simpson drives “They’re not as reliant on department stores to show- e-mail and she will do Skype meetings from set if she has to.” Celebs Trending Up Last Week revenues of more than $1 billion with her licensed business, case their brand as they were before social media and the When it’s done right, getting into business can be a long- and Halle Berry, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and Internet,” says Bruce Ross, managing director at the Traub term investment. Fame is fleeting, but consumer brands can Kate Bosworth are all jumping in. The musicians are there as Celebrity Group. “You have celebrities who have humongous have more staying power and outshine what initially brought well: Jay-Z made his mark with Rocawear; Pharrell Williams social media metrics and they have the ability to reach their a celebrity into the public consciousness. has Billionaire Boys Club; Gwen Stefani branched out with fan base, who’s dedicated to them. They have the ability to Take Jaclyn Smith, who turned her stint as one of “Charlie’s L.A.M.B. and Kayne West is, well, everywhere and keen to drive them to their own site or into a retailer who’s carrying Angels” into an apparel business at Kmart that marked its become even more of a force in fashion. their merchandise. It’s really changed and what we’re seeing 30th anniversary last year, having sold apparel or accessories FEMALE MALE They are easy on the eyes, talented on the screen and cat- is a number of celebrities are coming to us with the intent of to more than 100 million women. 1 Gwen Stefani 1 Donald Trump nip for the tabloids — but business has its own kind of fame developing their own brand on a global basis and going into “I don’t think I’m a celebrity brand anymore,” Smith says. 2 Christina Hendricks 2 Kunal Nayyar machine and it requires a different set of skills to crank up. a joint venture where they work together and they basically “I think I’m a solid brand in Kmart.” 3 Daisy Ridley 3 Piers Morgan If done right, celebrities can build valuable businesses. own their own brand.” But that’s a transition that’s taken a lot of effort. 4 Diane Keaton 4 Chris Harrison When the now-struggling Iconix Brand Group was closer to And there are plenty on both the corporate side and celeb- “You have to be a hard worker and you have to be passion- 5 Jane Lynch 5 Djimon Hounsou its high in 2007, it bought Rocawear for $204 million plus rity side wanting to make a connection. ate about it and you have to be fair,” she says. “You’ve got to 6 Kristen Bell 6 Ray Romano additional payouts. Alba’s Honest represents a new high, “More and more deals every day that are passing through know your customer. That’s why so many [celebrity lines] 7 Alexandra Daddario 7 Adam Driver though, and its latest capital raise reportedly valued it at an my office want something different,” says Ryan Schinman, don’t last, because they don’t do the work. You’ve got to do 8 Alicia Vikander 8 Al Roker eye-popping $1.7 billion. founder of Platinum Rye Entertainment. “‘How can we work the day-to-day and you have to research and open your mind 9 Amber Heard 9 Alan Tudyk 10 Amy Adams 10 Andrew Garfield

There are pitfalls, though. A business closely tied to a big with celebrities in a different way?’ And the celebrities come Matt Baron/BEI/Shutterstock by Trump Latour/WWD/REX/Shutterstock; Rob by Mark Mann; Stefani by photograph Barrymore to new ideas. You have to move with the times.” ■

50 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 51 50SUPER BOWL

40 FANTASY 30

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FOOT BALLS 10 THE NFL AND CFDA TEAM UP ON 50 BESPOKE BALLS FOR THE GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY OF THE SUPER BOWL.

By JEAN E. PALMIERI

0052 JANUARYMONTH 00, 2016, 2015 No. WWD.COM 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 ootball and fashion make strange bedfellows. Sure, the uniforms evoke all-American style and some — emphasis on the word some — of the players can dress with a certain élan. But, let’s face it, when being pum- meled by a 300-pound lineman, it’s understandable that the last thing players have on their minds F is the latest looks on the runway or whether their uniform fits well. But this year’s Super Bowl in Santa Clara, Calif., on Feb. 7 is the 50th — and naturally the National Football League is pulling out every play in its book. Coldplay and Beyoncé will perform at halftime and there will be a packed week of events around the Bay Area leading up to the Big Game. As for those fans who will be watching the game — and the commer- cials — sitting on their sofas and eating chili and nachos, the NFL wants them to have a memento of the occasion, too. And that’s where fashion — specifically the Council of Fashion Designers of America — comes in. The NFL and CFDA have formed a special collaboration, CFDA + NFL Super Bowl 50, to create bespoke footballs marking the anniversary. Fifty designers including Betsey Johnson, Kenneth Cole and Nicole SIKI IM NICOLE MILLER JENNIFER MEYER Miller have designed the balls, which will be auctioned off on the NFL. com Web site to benefit the NFL Foundation. The balls will be unveiled MIANSAI WHIT MICHAEL BASTIAN Jan. 20 at an event at the NFL’s offices in New York. This isn’t the first time the CFDA has linked with the league. When the Super Bowl was at MetLife Stadium in 2014, 48 designers created bespoke helmets that filled the windows of Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship and were then auctioned off. The NFL declined to say how much that auction raised, but said the John Varvatos helmet was the top seller, going for $5,055. The success of that initiative led the NFL to turn to the CFDA again. “When we did the helmets in Bloomingdale’s, it was really successful,” said Rhiannon Madden, vice president of consumer products for the NFL. “So we wanted to partner with them again to bring the worlds of football and fashion together.” “Lightning doesn’t always strike twice, but in this case it did,” said Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA. “The Super Bowl is a huge global event, and to be able to play a small part is really rewarding.” The balls all have a gold theme — tied in to the anniversary — but beyond the color, the rest was left up to the individual designers. “Mine is a chino football,” said men’s wear designer Todd Snyder, who is known for his American-skewed sensibility. “My helmet was gray flannel. I take things I think are iconic to American style, but have more of a modern edge.” And as a sports fan, it was fun. “I’m a big football fan,” he said. “I’m from Iowa, so I love college football, and since I grew up in the Midwest, I played every sport. If you could walk, you played sports.” Rachel Roy may not have played football, but she’s become a follower. “My daughter’s boyfriend has a full scholarship as a quarterback, so I’ve learned a lot. It’s our American entertainment.” For her football, Roy said she wanted to design something that would work in a professional setting. “It’s elegant, chic and strong.” It’s mostly python with a gold-plated jewelry handle on top “that frames it all. It TANYA TAYLOR TIFFANY & CO. MELISSA JOY MANNING was all done by hand, their logo and mine were hand-painted. I think it’s elegant for a home or office.” She said the project allowed her to get back to what she loves most about fashion. “We create for a living and that’s what I enjoy the most. When a company becomes a business, things change. So when I get to create hands-on, it’s fun and challenging.” Betsey Johnson agreed. “Mine was quite a bit of work,” she said. “But I think it came out wonderfully.” While her helmet was decorated with pink satin rosettes — “the base of everything I do” — the gold theme made her change the version on the ball to gold roses. “But I thought, that’s not enough. “One of my favorite possessions are these vintage mannequin hands with shiny red nails. I had them stuck in my garden around a rose bush, but I finally pulled them out because they freaked out my granddaugh- ters.” So she resurrected the hands, painted the skin gold while the nails got a fresh coat of glossy red polish, and the result was “fashionable, feminine and woman-y.” Men aren’t the only ones who are fans of football, she said. “I was a cheerleader at Syracuse University and [dated] a quarterback. So football became very important to me,” Johnson laughed. “I really know nothing about it, though.” But she does know fashion, and she wound up very fond of her foot- ball — so much so that she’s going to try to buy it back at the auction. “If

All photographs courtesy of NFL of courtesy All photographs I get it, it’ll stay on my shelf with my Syracuse letter sweater,” she said. ■

WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 55 TIM COPPENS SIMON MILLER MARCHESA MARK MCNAIRY

SUNO VINCE CAMUTO TODD SNYDER SANGLIM LEE

LEMLEM LISA PERRY OVADIA & SONS RACHEL ROY ORLEY TADASHI SHOJI RAG & BONE VITA FEDE

PAUL ANDREW PRABAL GURUNG ROBERT GELLER SAM EDELMAN

RACHEL ZOE JENNIFER FISHER KENDRA SCOTT SHINOLA FOURTH DOWN MARKETPLACE

Cam Newton’s postgame press Cam-era Ready conferences during the 2015 season. O Cam Newton’s almost-perfect season matches his almost-perfect sartorial style. The 6-foot, 5-inch Carolina Panthers quarterback has a penchant for smoking slippers, bold blazers and furry foxtail key chains. But things weren’t always this way. “I have a range of styles, but nothing flamboyant,” Newton told WWD in 2012, his second season in the NFL and ahead of launching his Made Cam Newton men’s wear line with Belk. That was then, and this is now: As he’s settled into his game, Newton’s style has become more flamboyant both on and off the field. Given the Panthers’ 15-1 season, maybe we’ll soon see other players sporting lucky foxtails. — ARIA HUGHES

New Year Opportunities Visit pmc.com/wwd for details.

Kenney, Bob Leverone and Kathy Willens, all for AP Photo AP Photo all for Willens, and Kathy Bob Leverone Kenney, 2016 Edit Calendar

DAILIES ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE February 3 + 4 February 10 February 17 February 24 Men’s Fashion Week Las Vegas Preview London/Paris Preview Oscar Preview Intimates Coterie/Curve Preview Paris FW Preview 02.03: CLOSE: 01.28 / MATERIALS: 01.29 Made In Italy LA Times Distribution 02.04: CLOSE: 01.29 / MATERIALS: 02.01 CLOSE 01.20 / MATERIALS 01.25 CLOSE 02.03 / MATERIALS 02.08 CLOSE 0210 / MATERIALS 02.15

DAILIES ISSUE ISSUE ISSUE March 2—9 March 2 March 9 April 13 Paris Fashion Week Men’s Collections Milan Recap Women’s Collections “A” In Focus 03.02: 02.25 / 02.28; 03.03: 02.26 / 02.29; CLOSE 02.17 / MATERIALS 02.22 CLOSE 03.30 / MATERIALS 04.04 03.04: 02.29 / 03.01; 03.05: 03.01 / 03.02; CLOSE 02.24 MATERIALS 02.29 03.06: 03.01 / 03.02; 03.07: 03.01 / 03.02; / 03.08: 03.02 / 03.03; 03.09: 03.03 / 03.04

Be Fashion Forward Newsletter Industry News Alerts Stay up-to-date on new analysis, trends, and More and vital information on the industry SIGN UP TODAY! Subscribe today at wwd.com/subscriptions Photographs by Michael Ainsworth, Jonathan Bachman, Stephen Brashear, Chuck Burton, Phelan M. Ebenhack, John Froschauer, James John Froschauer, Ebenhack, Phelan M. Chuck Burton, Brashear, Stephen Jonathan Bachman, Michael Ainsworth, by Photographs

60 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM For advertising inquiries, please contact Shannon Fitzgerald | 323-617-9094 | [email protected] WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 61 O 1965 O 1985 O 1987 Photo of David With Sir Paul The “Glass Spider” Bowie as McCartney at Live tour, Feyenoord Davie Jones. Aid at Wembley Stadium in De Kuip, Stadium in London. Rotterdam.

O 1991 With Iman during O 1965 O 1971 HBO’s “The Spotlight: Bowie in a more At a party in Josephine Baker Bohemian look. Los Angeles. Story” premiere Fashion in L.A. O 1996 Performing at Madison Square Chameleon Garden in New York. David Bowie’s style was never stagnant. The Stardust by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Im- Michael Ochs Archives/Getty by Stardust

legendary singer, who died David by Garden Kravitz/FilmMagic; Jeff by iere ichard Young/REX/Shutterstock; Live Aid by Nils Aid by Live Young/REX/Shutterstock; ichard O 1997 Bowie’s 50th on Jan. 10 at age 69, was birthday concert at Madison Square the king of androgyny, Garden in New York. but could also rock a O 1973 O 1973 O 1986 Onstage. As Ziggy Stardust David Bowie in in New York. costume as Jareth classic pin-striped suit. in “Labyrinth.”

O JANUARY 2012 Meliha Varesanovic pictured at the same place in the Dobrinja suburb of Sarajevo

O 1978 O 1983 O 1983 O 2002 O 2010 O 2013 Performing at At Wembley Arena At the Cannes Performing at Bowie and Iman A still from Louis Congress Centrum in 1983 on his Film Festival. Hammersmith dancing in the spring Vuitton’s campaign in Hamburg as part “Serious Moonlight” Apollo in London. 2004 Tommy Hilfiger short film, shot by of his 1978 tour. tour in London. ad campaign. David Sims. Jones photograph by CA/Redferns; 1971 by Earl Leaf/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images; 1965 by Dezo Hoffmann/REX/Shutterstock; Hoffmann/REX/Shutterstock; Dezo Images; 1965 by Ochs Archives/Getty Leaf/Michael Earl 1971 by CA/Redferns; by Jones photograph ages; 1973 by Ilpo Musto/REX/Shutterstock; Hamburg by Ellen Poppinga/K&K/Redferns; Wembley by Peter Still/Redferns; Cannes by R Cannes by Still/Redferns; Peter by Wembley Ellen Poppinga/K&K/Redferns; by Hamburg Ilpo Musto/REX/Shutterstock; ages; 1973 by prem “Baker” Verhorst; Rob Foto by Spider tour Moviestore/REX/Shutterstock; by Jareth Young/REX/Shutterstock; Jorgensen/Richard Images Benett/Getty Dave by Hammersmith Ke.Mazur/WireImage; Birthday by Corio/Redferns;

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 63 ARE ARE THEY WEARING

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

The London streets have become the ultimate common ground for the most influential trends in the men’s wear market.

0064 JANUARYMONTH 2015, 2016, No.1tk No. 2 WWD.COM WWD.COM PhotographsPhotograph by by BYLINE_NAME KUBA DABROWSKI WWD.COM JANUARY 2016, No. 2 65 Bridget Foley’s Diary Ralph Riffs

“Stores are not dead.” ¶ So proclaimed no less an industry guises. For example, the opening of The Polo Bar in the Polo store at Fifth Avenue and 55th Street maestro than Ralph Lauren during a conversation last week. wasn’t sprung from a philanthropic desire to bring great steaks and corned beef to a neighborhood Thirty minutes with Lauren can go anywhere. When he’s lean on fine dining. “We put a restaurant in our store and that worked in a different way,” he said. passionate on the topic, he’s more than happy to stray He built it, the throngs came, and a year after the opening, reservations remain impossible. New beyond the specific matter at hand. And Lauren is plenty Year’s Eve “was amazing,” Lauren said, boasting that the evening’s highlights included a singing passionate about the entirety of his work. Last week, he waitress. As she walked the room in song, “one of my thoughts was, ‘Let’s see how I’m going to previewed his men’s fall 2016 Purple Label collection with deal with this.’ It’s about how to make retail more exciting.” He’s now working on a coffee shop WWD, walking through the vast installation at his New concept, though he didn’t divulge particulars, location included. York headquarters, the setup conceived and installed with As he approaches 50 years in the business, Lau- ren has seen just about everything the economy, characteristic impeccable attention to detail, even though the markets and the competition — not to mention the vicissitudes of fashion — could throw in his the official presentation is in Milan on Feb. 16. path. He has survived and thrived through it all, so Nearing the end, someone brought up the indus- his advice is worth listening to, advice all the more try’s overall lackluster holiday season, prompting fascinating for its lack of preparation; it came from Lauren to riff on retail. The man knows what he’s the gut. Lauren distilled three seemingly simple talking about. A pioneer of high-end vertical retail tenets that have worked for him: Don’t panic. when that meant one thing only, four walls and a Know who you are. Within the parameters of that selling floor, he is also in the forefront of e-com- knowledge, deliver newness. merce. Want a stack of Polo shirts monogrammed Rather than panicking one’s way through THE ANTICIPATION. THE AMAZING FASHIONS. THE ACCOLADES... in the color and font of your choice? You can challenging times, Lauren said a more fruitful expect delivery in just a few days. Lauren loves approach is to take a long, hard stare into the the current convenience and untold possibilities company looking glass and ask, “What are we of e-commerce and m-commerce. He also loves a not doing?” chic store of the brick-and-mortar sort, especially Difficult times for business demand that people in the quest for luxury. “start to sharpen up. If people are flying through “Certainly online is growing,” Lauren noted. the store, you think everything you’re doing is THE OSCARS “But there’s nothing like walking into a beautiful great. Then business and the economy change, shop, touching the clothes and putting them and you don’t look like a genius anymore. Then on and feeling like someone is talking to you [you should ask], ‘Do you know what you’re about the products. You’re asking questions doing?’ That’s the biggest time to make a statement and they’re giving you answers. When I walk and work hard.” OSCAR PREVIEW RED CARPET RECAP into a ski shop and they’re talking about the Inextricably linked, self-knowledge and the ISSUE: FEBRUARY 24 ISSUE: MARCH 2 skis…yes, you can press a button and say order need for newness can make antagonistic bedfel- CLOSE: FEBRUARY 10 CLOSE: FEBRUARY 17 [these skis] or that Mercedes, but there’s more lows. “Don’t lose yourself,” Lauren warned. “It’s MATERIALS: FEBRUARY 15 MATERIALS: FEBRUARY 26 to that. When someone explains a [ski] helmet, about doing your best and looking for newness you get the magic.” without losing who you are.” That juxtaposition That said, ignition of that moment of conversa- creates a question every designer must ask and LA Times Distribution tional magic takes two, and Lauren acknowledged “There’s nothing like answer constantly, one both practical and existen- that retail traffic is off. “Business is bad,” he said. tial: “How do I say something new and still be me?” “People are not in the stores. No matter where you walking into a beautiful Whether one’s business resides at the rare, go, it’s quiet, it’s empty.” And emptiness breeds — Lauren-esque iconic stage or a nascent one, emptiness. “When you walk into an empty store, shop, touching the he suggested the same approach. “You have to when you walk into a restaurant that’s empty, clothes…and feeling like experiment. Not everything you do is going to be you want to [leave]. Even if it’s good food, you’re amazing…. leaving it because it doesn’t feel good to be there. someone is talking to you “You better make your statement, whatever I think we’ve gone through that kind of period this it is,” Lauren said. “If you do it, you believe in it past year. The dollar changed, everything we’re about the products.” and you know how to say it, then you’re a leader. living through, the weather…” If you follow the guy that’s doing it, you’re not a

Solutions aren’t pat, and can come in surprising leader.” ■ Colin Beck Andrew by Illustration FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 66 JANUARY 2016, No. 2 WWD.COM