The Alternative Review

The alternative review

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Hebei Rumble NOVA HEART Dan Deacon December 2014 US Wrestling in China Drop Their Debut Album Cosmic Crusader Comes to Town JOIN FORCES WITH

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Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Senior Editors Oscar Holland, Will Philipps, Karoline Kan, Marianna Cerini Assistant Editor Vivid Zhu Chief Designer Ning Zhu Designer Tin Wu Staff Photographer Noemi Cassanelli Contributors Andrew Chin, Alex Taggart, Stan Aron, Mia Li, Ian Walker, Trevor Marshallsea, Erik Crouch, Ryan Kilpatrick, Nikolai Blackie, Qiao Zhi, Aelred Doyle

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2 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com editor's w i n note december

It’s not unusual for residents of Beijing to suffer from an ACUTE sense of time dilation. Such is the city’s exhaustive churn – old people leave, new people arrive, old buildings go down, new buildings go up – just one year in the capital can feel like the equivalent to seven years elsewhere on earth. Two tickets to see post- task. Where to begin, exactly? We’ve resisted the temptation of rounding up the usual inven- toryThe of this phenomena year’s big makes ‘front page’any attempt stories, at and compiling instead anpresent annual something review an of unusually an alternative difficult punksters look back at the last 12 months, featuring the very best – and weirdest – in China miscellanea (page 40). The Fallacy There’s further nostalgia for the past in this month’s lead features – as Karoline Kan visits a newly constructed ‘ancient’ water town in the mountains of Simatai (page 16), and I join (P30); two 1/6th scale replica of ‘old Beijing’ (page 10). tickets to up withElsewhere, the World man-about-town Wrestling Network Will Philipps as they preparesurveys forthe theirlatest first goings ever on China in Beijing’s show inside res- a taurant and bar scene (page 48); Andrew Chin talks impending superstardom with Nova DIY DJ Dan Heart frontwoman Helen Feng (page 36) and meets up with cosmic wrecking ball Dan Deacon ahead of his much anticipated December show at MAO Livehouse (page 35); and it wouldn’t Deacon (p33); a copy be an end-of-year edition without some form of Christmas gift guide (page 24). So, from everyone here at That’s Beijing, happy holidays! of Mo Yan’s novel, Frog (p37); a pair of haircut vouchers worth RMB200 Stephen George Editor-in-Chief for Lauren Falcon Coiffure Studio (p63); two tickets to post-rock night New Noise Fifth Anniversary Tour (p64); a pair of tickets to see Kode9 and DJ Spinn (p65); vouchers for two people for Sunday brunch at the Crowne Plaza Lido’s Matrix (p72).

Clockwise, from top right: FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Karoline poses with the WWN Champions; Alex and Oscar share a joke and a beer or two Thats_Beijing at Great Leap Brewing’s beer festival; and Oscar, Stephen twitter.com/Thats_Beijing and Will prepare for their go- karting show down. facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Of course APEC is the most important thing this year, it will change our lives […] though I’m not sure exactly how. 工体店 GONG TI STORE 麦子店 MAI ZI DIAN STORE First floor of Lianbao Flat, Middle 104, No.15 Zaoying Beli, Maizidian But it must be a good thing or else Xingfu Street, Chaoyang District, Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing Beijing 朝阳区麦子店枣营北里 15 号 104 号 why would they do it?” 朝阳区幸福中路联宝公寓一层 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:65076361 AM 8:00-PM 24:00 TEL:64177970 三里屯店 SAN LI TUN STORE Anti-terrorism volunteer, 丽都店 LIDO STORE No.1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang Guo, 47, offers his thoughts on APEC. No.102 The Richmond Park District, Beijing LeisureCenter, Fangyuan South Street, 朝阳区三里屯北小街 1 号 Chaoyang District, Beijing AM 8:00-PM21:00 TEL:84551245 朝阳区芳园南路丽都水岸会所 102 号 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:84578116 乐成国际店 LANDGENT 6 CITY INTERNATIONAL STORE 公园大道店 PARK AVENUE STORE No.76 Landgent International 5-2 8 TALES OF CITY No.111 Shopping Complex,No.6 Baiziwan South Erlu, Chaoyang District, Chaoyang Park South Road, Chaoyang Beijing Beijing’s crack team of anti- District, Beijing 朝阳区百子湾南二路 76 号院乐成国际 terrorism volunteers. 朝阳区朝阳公园南路 6 号公园大道商 5-2 底商业中心 111 号 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:87724979 9 CONFUCIAN COUNSEL AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:65306843 A moral lesson in modern 东环广场店 DONGHUAN 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE SQUARE STORE sexual behavior. 8-1-102,No.6 Chaowai Avenue, No.29 Dongzhong Street South Building Chaoyang District, Beijing F-G, Dongcheng District, Beijing 15 HORRIBLE HISTORY 朝阳区朝外大街六号 8 号楼 1 层 102 东城区东中街 29 号东环广场 B 座 1 层临 Introducing the Dogmeat General 15 AM 8:00-PM24:00 TEL:65970765 街铺面（近东环广场） AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:64183328 and his warlord friends. 双井店 SHUANG JING STORE 18-06 D Shuangjing Bodied City 香江店 XIANG JIANG STORE Business District, Chaoyang District, First floor of Country club, 22 LIFE & STYLE Beijing No.1Xiangjiang North Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区双井富力城 D 区商业 18-06 District, Beijing AM 8:00-PM24:00 TEL:58764233 朝阳区香江北路 1 号乡村俱乐部一层 23 VICKY MOHIEDDEEN AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:84506882 On how Beijing’s lack of rules means wearing what you want. 24 GIFT GUIDE Because you can’t take home another set of souvenir chopsticks. 26 CHRISTMAS FASHION Winter fashion isn’t all reindeer- emblazoned sweaters. 23

32 ARTS

35 DAN DEACON On mixing DIY electronica with contemporary classical. 36 HELEN FENG Nova Heart frontwoman’s rise to Mainland rock domination. 38 JIANG WEN Cannes Grand Prix winning director profiled. 36

48 EAT & DRINK

50 C PEARL Shanghai oyster revolution marches north. 54 SHICHENGJI SHAOBING Meet the man with the best bings in town. 56 FURNACE Industrial chic bars: so 54 hot right now.

4 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com THE WRAP

10 Hebei Throwdown We follow an outfit of semi-pro 16 RIVER TOWN US wrestlers on their debut China tour. Faking history in Beijing’s northern fringes. 40 THE YEAR IN REVIEW We sum up the good, bad, ugly and outrageous of 2014.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 5 T HE BUZZ

city | Feature

HAIR OF THE DOG A miniature poodle receives a grooming at the 18th China International Pet Show in Beijing.

RANDOM A Year’s Smog in Photos NUMBER

Since January 27, 2013, Beijing resident Zou Yi has been uploading a single photograph of Beijing’s BTV Tower to his Weibo account — every morning, from the exact same angle and at the exact same time. A compilation of his shots throughout the year gives a grim picture of the capital, with smoggy mornings clearly outnumbering blue-sky days. Speaking to CEN he said: “I forget [PM2.5] readings as soon as I read … is the percentage of people who expressed support for the death them. A picture is worth a thousand words. If you see penalty in cases of bribery and corruption, according to a survey by a the same place, at the same time over a full year, the Beijing newspaper. quality of the air becomes perceptible immediately.”

6 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected] feature | city

BOYS II (PLA) MEN Lantern Ban Introduced Before and after photos of men who joined the army have gone viral after the PLA Daily uploaded pictures to its Weibo account. The images – which show fresh-faced youngsters transformed into strapping soldiers thanks to some good old-fashioned discipline – were reposted over 13,000 times.

The centuries-old tradition of releasing flaming sky lanterns has come down on the wrong side of the law, with their production, sale and use now banned in the capital. The seemingly innocuous floaters have been responsible for widespread destruction, with Beijing police reporting 18 cases of lantern-related carnage, including four trees catching alight and an electrical fire at the Happy Valley theme park.

Quote of the Month “In the past we fought criminals to save a person or a family. Now we fight terrorists to save our country” Vice-Captain Cao Zhigang (pictured below, center), of Beijing’s Counter-terrorism Unit, Hordes of Cash and Gold Found was one of ten officers named “China's at Hebei Official’s Home most popular police” in a competition set up by the Ministry of Public Security and A Hebei official is under investigation for corruption CCTV. The 43-year-old, who has rescued 170 after police discovered RMB120 million in cash and 37kg kidnap hostages in his career, may already of gold in his apartment. Suspicions that the riches may be a familiar face thanks to last month’s be ill-gotten were intensified when it was revealed that dramatically posed ‘Anti-terrorism Elite’ Ma Chaoqun, a former manager at the state-owned water posters which appeared across the subway supplier Beidaihe, also had 68 properties in his portfolio. network. The province’s Central Commission for Discipline Inspection has accused Ma of bribery, embezzlement, and misappropriation of public funds. According to one media commentator: “Like a rat that fell into a rice bin, he swallowed as much ill-gotten wealth as his appetite allowed.” The provincial authorities’ problems may not end there. Allegedly over 230 other officials were also caught up in the corruption investigations. No further details of the officials or precious metals involved were released.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 7 city | tales TALES OF THE CITY

“It makes my day a lot more interesting”

For the last two months, Mr Guo, a 47-year- expanding to include street vendors, volunteers recited aloud their mission: old parking attendant, has combined retirees, shop workers, security guards, “Face terrorism and violence. Never ignore his regular day job with that of another, teachers, bus drivers, tour guides and even it or let it grow freely. We will raise people’s nominally more important role – protecting children, among others. awareness through our actions, and Beijing from terrorists. “Last week, I found two cars with increase involvement!” Each day at 7.30am, Guo – who sports strange plates parked here, so I reported According to the Beijing Morning Post, a bright red armband with the inscription them to the police. They took the owner as of March 2014, more than 100 useful ‘Beijing City Volunteer’ written across it in away and investigated,” says Guo. “Although leads have been reported by volunteers, yellow Chinese characters – arrives at his it turned out to be nothing, at least I did my leading to over RMB300,000 being awarded regular workplace in a nondescript parking job properly. With these kinds of things, it’s to tipsters in bonuses. lot in Sanlitun. Once there, he spends the better to be over-cautious than less.” Outside Zhongshan Park, near next ten hours directing cars and charging Local government officials plan to Tiananmen Square, 43-year-old restaurant drivers, while at the same time keeping a make Guo a permanent fixture of Beijing owner Zhao watches over crowds of steely look-out for anybody or anything that life. During the recent APEC summit, tourists. Her attitude though, is more might be considered suspicious. “It makes the government praised the role of the casual. “The street committee thinks that my day a lot more interesting,” says Guo, volunteer network, which alongside since I am running a restaurant, I will cheerily. increased airport-style security checks at meet more potential terrorists,” says Zhao, Guo is one of an estimated 870,000 subway stations and clampdowns on public pointing at her armband, which she admits city-wide anti-terrorism volunteers jointly gatherings, constitutes the foundation of the to sometimes forgetting to wear during organized by the Beijing Police and the city’s anti-terrorism efforts. busy periods. “But you know, when I get Beijing Comprehensive Management On October 31, an Anti-Terrorist really busy, it’s hard to work out whether Office. Although street volunteers are by Education and Volunteers Recruitment someone looks like a terrorist. Besides, no means new in the capital, a spate of Ceremony was held simultaneously in 16 even a fly couldn’t escape the eyes of the high-profile terrorist attacks across China districts across Beijing. At one of the main military guards if it was acting strangely.” has seen the city’s volunteer drive grow to ceremonies at the New World Department Karoline Kan unprecedented new levels, with recruitment Store in Dongcheng District, a group of new

8 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com WWCD | city

What Would confucius do? Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom “I am a man, but I like to dress in women’s clothing, especially women’s panties. My new girlfriend has made it clear that she doesn’t like it when I do this. She recently caught me wearing her bra and panties and totally freaked out. Should I move on and leave her for someone who understands me, or stop with this behavior?”

I am happy to see that you have given this on others, then everything is OK. This is are doing and what you are thinking. If question serious thought. Clearly, you an acceptable code, but it is a lowly one. you are unsure as to the morality of your have a highly developed sexual fetish and Very low indeed. Confucianism does not actions, consider whether you would do cross-dressing tendencies. Professionally only stress the moral relationship between the same thing in public? I don’t want to speaking, this is not my field of expertise. you and others, but also the relationship personally criticize or judge your habits, but Though I can offer you some moral advice. between you and your mind, your heart and ask yourself this: would you dare to wear Confucius praised junzi [gentlemen] your spirit. your girlfriend’s clothes in public? If so, who live a transparent and honest life. A People today believe that their body then I admire your courage and you should gentleman has a heart that is as wide and belongs only to themselves, so they can do not feel the need to change or hide your flat as the grassland, where no darkness whatever they want to. But in traditional behavior. But, if you are troubled by this, exists. In The Analects, Confucius wrote Confucian thought, this is an entirely alien then deep down, you do not accept yourself, that “gentlemen are open and poised”. view. The Classic of Filial Piety, one of the which means you have no right to expect Even people who are not gentlemen would most important Confucian texts, explains other people to accept such behavior either. benefit from living by this simple maxim. how “your body, skin and hair are given to You may feel I am preaching too much you by your parents, so you can’t damage wang Xuejun is a lecturer at beijing language and about morality, but forgive me, as morality them [as they don’t belong to you].” culture university, specializing in chinese culture. is the foundation of Confucianism. What More importantly, in your case perhaps, his most recent book is entitled teaching methods is morality? Simply put, it is never letting is the Confucian notion of “self-restraint of chinese language and traditional culture . send bad habits grow freely. Many people like in privacy”. Even when you are alone by your ethical dilemma for Professor wang to bjeditor@ to believe that if their actions don’t impact yourself, you should consider what you urbanatomy.com

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 9 city | Feature

Ready t Obscure American Wrestlers Visito an Obscure Chinese Town words by S rumble? tephen George, images by Noemi C assanelli

10 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | city

“They could never get away with this in B because we live in a small town. B eijing! They must think that we’re stupid, ut we can see that they’re cheating!”

Ready t Obscure American Wrestlers Visito an Obscureru Chinesem Town ble?

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 11 city | Feature

Network [WWN], the event is the first stop viability. During a private meeting with on a four-date, week-long China tour, that Great Wall Sports, the company’s director will travel to Emeishan and Chengdu before Niu Lixin confesses to having never watched returning to Beijing for a final show at the American wrestling. “I have no idea whether 20,000-capacity MasterCard Arena. it will work in China. It is a big risk for us,” Quite how Hebei audiences will react to he explains. “We view it more as a potential the WWN’s particular brand of high-flying, long-term investment. Assuming it can be high-tempo acrobatics remains unknown. remodeled for the domestic market.” At the WWN’s opening press conference, Similar questions were being asked held the previous night (somewhat among the wrestlers at the press conference. inexplicably) at a German brewery in Recalling a time several years ago when the suburbs of Beijing, the organization’s he wrestled in India, WWN champion There are few buildings as brand ambassador, Trevin Adams, had Trent Barretta was concerned that Chinese deliberately theatrical as the Grand Epoch jokingly summarized the trip as an “obscure crowds might not buy into the theatrics and City in Hebei. Built at a cost of some wrestling company, on a tour of obscure simply laugh at the absurdity of it. “There’s RMB3 billion and covering an area of over Chinese towns”. a definite chance of it happening,” he 2 million square meters, the state-owned As summaries go, it wasn’t too far from explained, in between sips on a free German retreat is a near perfect 1/6th scale replica the truth. Although popular in other parts beer. “It’s not like they grew up watching of Qing-era Beijing, replete with towering of Asia, most notably Japan, professional Hulk Hogan on TV […] They have no point of city walls, ornate temples, tranquil lily American-style wrestling has so far failed to reference. To them, it’s just guys in spandex ponds and winding alleyways. catch on in China, where audiences appear pretending to hit one another.” Located within easy reach of the disinterested in its complex soap-opera Barretta, who has recently undergone capital, the enormous leisure complex style plots and overt US nationalism (the surgery on one of his knees and is was originally conceived as a place world leader in professional wrestling, the competing in Hebei against the advice of his for holidaying government officials to WWE, currently has a long running storyline doctor, is among the tour’s poster boys. A unwind. But, with lavishness among public in which a Russian wrestler named ‘Ruslev’ former WWE superstar who once wrestled servants now discouraged and the central – who is in actual fact Bulgarian – and his in front of an audience of 80,000 at the government’s anti-corruption drive in full spokesperson ‘Lana’ parade around in Royal Rumble, he is now rebuilding his swing, the complex has been turned over to Russian flags and mock American values in career as a successful and charismatic indie alternative commercial uses. Tonight it will order to get a rise from the crowd). wrestler, packing out venues from anywhere play host to Hebei’s first ever professional The WWN’s Chinese partners – Great between 50 to 500 people. wrestling bout. Wall Sports and state-owned investment “Wrestling in the WWE was like playing Organized by little-known American firm Citic – while publicly supportive of the the triangle in Pink Floyd, whereas working independent outfit, the World Wrestling tour, remain uncertain as to its short-term the indie circuits is like being a lead singer

12 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | city

From right to left: wrestler Silver Ant prepares for the main event; Johnny Gargano is choked by Biff Busick; Ivelisse struggles to break free from Su Yung‘s grip; The spartan Hebei crowd at the end of the night at the Grand Epoch City.

in your own punk band,” said Barretta, by Sapolsky – the WWN’s 42-year-old booking seat indoor stadium, the venue for tonight’s way of analogy. “The truth is, coming to agent – is preparing to give a pre-show event. Inside, last minute adjustments China on this tour is among the greatest speech. It is approaching 2pm on the first are being made to the ring and a row of things I’ve been involved in [...] I love being day of the tour and rehearsals for the cheerleaders – students from the local a wrestler and I’m lucky that I can make my evening’s event are scheduled to start in college of dance – practice their moves in living from it.” under an hour. time to a thumping US hip-hop soundtrack. Not everyone, though, is so fortunate. As the man responsible for deciding As the wrestlers begin to warm up and Of the 26 WWN wrestlers who have made who wins and who loses, Saplosky wields run through their routines, I find myself the trip to China, only a handful are able the power to make or break a career. ringside with Larry Dallas, a 30-year-old to survive on wrestling alone. Most work Should the tour prove to be a success, those former wrestler turned ‘manager’. The second jobs with many opting to take wrestlers promoted to top billing will stand only performer on the WWN’s China talent unpaid leave in order to join the tour. to reap the biggest rewards. roster who isn’t a wrestler (pro wrestling “Wrestling on the indie circuit is “Listen up everybody. I’m gonna keep is full of peripheral characters to drive the definitely not a glamorous lifestyle,” this simple. I don’t want any drama today. story lines), Dallas’ role is unique. “I play says Caleb Kolony, a popular young indie You understand? No drama.” The wrestlers, the arch villain,” he explains. “I was on a wrestler from North Carolina, who helps dressed in matching black tracksuits, nod reality TV show when I was younger, so my run his family’s business selling professional attentively. character is an exaggeration of that: this guy wrestling equipment when not performing. “Remember, this is our chance to create who thinks he’s a celebrity, but really he’s a “Most the guys here aren’t doing this a lasting relationship, to build something nobody,” he laughs. “I’m the hype man, like for money or fame, not when some of them special, to create something big,” says [US rap group Public Enemy’s] Flavor Flav. are wrestling in front of a handful of people Sapolsky. “You don’t know who any of these I come down to the ring and stir things up. for USD100 a show. They’re doing it for the people might be out there. Any one of them On a good night I can get the whole crowd love,” continues Kolony. could be a sponsor. So stay calm and act screaming insults at me.” “You’ve got to really love wrestling to polite. This is a really, really big opportunity With rehearsals wearing on, our put your body through this, week in, week for all of us, no matter what your role. For conversation begins to shift onto the topic out. You get beat up real quickly. There’s the WWN, for you, and for your buddies in of China. “It’s all just so intriguing, I feel like not a person on this tour who’s not carrying the future – don’t screw it up.” no one else here [on this trip] really gets a bad injury of some sort. People think I accompany the wrestlers on the short how crazy this all is,” says Dallas. wrestling’s all fake, but it’s rough man.” walk from their Forbidden City-themed “I mean, look around. What do I tell Back at the Grand Epoch City, Gabe hotel to the Grand Epoch City’s lavish 6,000- people when I go home? What do I tell my girlfriend? That I performed in this ”Most the guys here aren't doing this for the money or for the fame, not big fake ancient Chinese city, as a guest of when some of them are wrestling in front of a handful of people for the Chinese government? I mean how will USD100 a show. They’re doing it for the love“ people relate? It’s impossible. This is all so

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 13 city | Feature

surreal to me right now.” The opponents on the other hand, receive Soon Dallas and I are joined by Earl cheers, despite their well signposted Cooter, ‘The Southern Stud’. In WWN’s arrogance. As the match gets underway, current storyline, Dallas’ and Cooter’s I ask a woman sat next to me why is she characters are part of the same stable is choosing to cheer for the Bravados. of heels [villains], and the two often “Because they are real Americans!” she says, accompany one another to the ring. “Larry’s seemingly surprised by my question. In right. This is a much bigger opportunity actuality, both teams are American, but only than a lot of people here seem to realize. the Bravados are Caucasian. China is the next big wrestling frontier,” Similar misunderstandings occur says Cooter, who plans on adopting the throughout the evening. Self-professed pseudonym ‘Mr Shuai Ge’ [lit. ‘handsome “arch villain” Larry Dallas is repeatedly guy’] for tonight’s show. “Wrestling is a applauded, even when attempting to pretty universal language,” he continues. interfere with the match (woman next to “Its not all that difficult to understand, so me: “he looks like an honest businessman”). long as you adjust the characters for local Attempts by various wrestlers to engage the audiences.” crowd with verbal banter fall flat. Later, an It is around this time that rehearsals elaborate and well orchestrated set piece, draw to an end and the wrestlers are which involves Trent Barretta feigning ushered away into the backstage locker injury, results in widespread aggravation area. With the crowds yet to arrive, I meet – and prompts many in the crowd to leave, with self-professed fixer Wang Haiyan. A including the family next to me, who are Florida native, Wang first came to China now “sure that the event is fixed”. with boxing promoter Don King in late 2008, Others seem equally bewildered. One and has since helped a number of American middle-aged man wonders whether the sporting organizations connect with wrestlers were simply taking it easy because Chinese government partners. Surveying the they are in Hebei. “They could never get stadium, he weighs up the WWN’s chances away with this in Beijing! They must think of success. “I can’t be too optimistic. There that we’re stupid, because we live in a small is a whole market missing here. In America, town. But we can see that they’re cheating!” children love the performance and grow By the time the final bout is announced, the up knowing its culture. But here, people crowd has shrunk to around 300 people, have no idea who these people are […] Still, many of whom seem more interested in it’s worth a try, after all, the potential for checking their phones, than they do the From top to bottom : Rich Swann; Caleb Kolony growth is huge.” and Trent Barretta; Ivelisse, Larry Dallas and Jody performance. As I take my seat for the evening’s Kristofferson; Earl Cooter, the Southern Stud. After the event, I catch up with Barretta, show, a representative from Citic reveals to Kolony and Cooter, to get their take on how me that almost all of the tickets have been the show went down. From the perspective given away for free. “It was impossible to of a western wrestling fan, the event could sell them and it is better to have a full house be considered something of a success. than an empty one,” he says, as crowds of The matches were consistently engaging; locals begin to fill the stadium. particularly impressive were the high- The crowd – a mix of curious families, flying stunts, many of which required a high middle-aged businessmen and young people degree of technical aptitude and athleticism. – now numbers somewhere in excess of Barretta is more critical though: “It was too two thousand. Taking up the row directly in elaborate for the audience, the characters front of me are a group of men in their mid- were too nuanced. It needs to be simple. 20s. Having received complimentary tickets Like the WWF in the 80s – obvious villains through a friend, they reveal how they have and heroes. We need to slow it down and spent much of the day watching old WWE work the crowd. We need to go back to wrestling clips on Youku in preparation basics.” for tonight’s show. “Nothing exciting ever Cooter, whose own attempt at happens in Hebei,” says one of the men. “This introducing himself under a Chinese is a big deal for us.” pseudonym was vetoed by the organizers, The show’s opening match is a tag- agrees, suggesting that they consider team bout, pitting AR Fox and Rich Swann introducing more Chinese characters and against the Bravados. Entering the ring themes. “At the very least we’ve got to start to the sounds of Lionel Richie’s ‘All Night throwing some Chinese words around.” Long’, Swann and Fox dance their way As I leave the venue, I catch up with through the crowd. To western audiences Niu Lixin, the director of Great Wall Sports. familiar with wrestling tropes, their actions “They are very professional and the product and brightly colored clothes clearly mark is good,” he tells me. “Based on what I’ve them out as the good guys (or babyfaces, seen, there’s definitely room for market in wrestling parlance). The reaction of the growth. I think this could become an annual crowd, however, suggests otherwise. Their thing… just not in Hebei.” all-singing all-dancing entrance elicits little more than perfunctory applause.

14 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com fheatureistory | city

Despite its much-vaunted 5,000 years of continuous history, China has gone through long intermissions of disunity. The most Dogmeat marked period of discord in the 20th century was what became known as the Warlord Era. Lasting from the death of Yuan Shikai in 1916 until the conclusion of the and Northern Expedition in 1928, China had no effective national government. Instead, the country was a patchwork of fiefdoms claimed by regional strongmen who friends maintained their own standing armies and listened to Beijing only when it suited them. The Colorful Characters of China’s Warlord Era The Dogmeat General Zhang Zongchang by Ryan Kilpatrick One of the era’s most colorful characters was, without a doubt, the ‘Dogmeat General’. Zhang Zongchang, a failed bandit from Shandong who sought refuge with the warlord Zhang Zuolin in Manchuria after his band of mercenaries was defeated in Jiangsu. Zhang loved to lavish money on his family, friends and concubines, and commanded great loyalty by treating his men well. The Thinking Man’s Warlord The Dogmeat General got his unique Chen Jiongming moniker not because of his culinary tastes A lawyer by training, Chen was (sorry to disappoint) but because of his love instrumental as a backer of Sun Yat-sen’s of gambling, particularly the game paigow Constitution Protection Government which was known colloquially as “eating based in Guangzhou. However, Chen found dog meat”. Zhang was also known as the himself at loggerheads with his fellow ‘Three Don’t Knows’, since he could never Cantonese revolutionary when it came keep count of how much money, how many The Christian General to the unification of China: whereas Sun soldiers or how many concubines he had. Feng Yuxiang wanted to unify the country swiftly by force Zhang kept a veritable United Nations Feng’s is perhaps the greatest rags-to- and establish a strong central government of ladies in waiting from Europe, North riches story of the Warlord Era. At age 11, he with a single party at its core, Chen America and around Asia. Since he joined the Qing army at the lowest ranking, believed in peaceful reunification through couldn’t recall their names nor speak their receiving nothing more than the uniform voluntary association, with the different languages, Zhang simply referred to his on his back and the occasional bellyful of regions coming together around a smaller concubines by number. Time magazine food. From there, he went on to become central government, gradually coalescing dubbed him: ‘China’s basest warlord’ and Vice Premier of the Republic of China. A around the ‘model province’ of Guangdong ‘China’s most detested War Lord.’ Methodist convert, Feng became known as – something not unlike a United States of Nonetheless, even Time changed its the Christian General, owing to his penchant China. tune by the time Zhang’s back was against for converting his troops. Reportedly, he’d Sun saw federalist ideas, the self- the Great Wall, facing KMT forces under the baptize them en masse before battle using a government movement and regional Muslim General Bai Chongxi. The headline fire hose. leadership as a smokescreen for warlord had changed from ‘Basest Warlord’ to Feng founded his own Nationalist Army shenanigans, and the two split dramatically ‘Potent Hero’, extolling: in the northwest, independent of political in 1923 when Chen attempted to have Sun “Anemic Westerners can only admire parties and warlord cliques, and supported assassinated and shelled his residence. The Chang’s courage and verve... win or lose, Chiang Kai-shek in the Northern Expedition ‘Father of the Nation’ and his wife Song that’s a brave Chinese.” to reunite the country under KMT control. Qingling were spirited away by gunboats And lose he did. Zhang had a good Not long thereafter, though, he turned on under the protection of none other than mind for strategy and was respected as Chiang in the Central Plains War, teaming future Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, the an innovator: He employed close to 5,000 up with Li Zongren and the Shaanxi warlord incident earning him Sun’s ultimate trust. experienced White Russian mercenaries Yan Xishan to declare their own government Chen later died in Hong Kong, but was in his ranks, manning armored trains in in Beijing before being beaten on the buried back in Guangdong near Huizhou. pseudo-Tsarist regalia. But Zhang would battlefield by Chiang’s forces. During the Cultural Revolution, Red have needed a lot more Russians than that In 1948, Feng accepted a CCP invitation Guards tried to blow up Chen’s grave, but to beat back the forces of reunification. After to board a Soviet ship on his way back from local villagers succeeded in defending it. his defeat, the Dogmeat General retired America, a journey during which he died in Branded a reactionary warlord for decades, to Japan, where he lived a relatively quiet a shipboard fire in the middle of the Black Chen and the early revolutionary debates life alongside his elderly mother, whom he Sea. Whether Feng’s death was a KMT hit or between federalism and centralism are now insisted on taking everywhere except the an accident remains an unsettled question finally being reexamined and redressed by frontlines. in Chinese history. historians.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 15 city | Feature

16 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | city

It's the off-season and the town. As a salesperson in the Gubei gift 55-year-old family hotel owner, Xu Xiurong, shop at the entrance of the town tells us: is standing beneath a two-meter-high “Of course it takes a lot of time to demolish wooden sign that reads: ‘Simatai Traditional all the old houses, clean up all the things Heritage Village Welcomes You’. people who lived here left behind, and But Xu’s hotel, like the Simatai village rebuild new stuff according to the ancient it is intended to help service, is neither blueprint.” traditional nor does it have any real That ancient blueprint – if there is in heritage. It is brand new – built in a style fact such a thing – is likely to have been never before found in northern China. borrowed from Suzhou. With its narrow Two years ago, Xu was one of the several flowing canals, stone streets, wooden hundred local people who were relocated houses, small arch bridges and carved to the new village after their old homes, window frames, Gubei bears a striking built around the Simatai area of the Great resemblance to the famed southern water Wall, fell within an area demarcated for the city. development of northern China’s first and During the APEC holiday, hundreds only water town. of tourists descended on Gubei, lured by The Ancient Gubei Water Town, as it is promotional advertisements promising: now officially known, sits several kilometers “Over a thousand years of authentic further up the mountain from Xu’s hotel, heritage.” Though many claimed to be amid a network of newly built canals and disappointed by the fact that nobody was rivers. actually living within the town itself, the After four years of construction, Gubei majority appeared satisfied with the overall was officially opened to tourists this experience and level of authenticity. October, though work continues throughout “You can easily imagine that you are

Inventing History Simatai’s Brand New ‘Ancient’ Water Town words by Karoline Kan, images by Stan Aron

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 17 city | Feature

in Suzhou, and it’s far cheaper and more Beautiful or not, the town’s promotional maximize the profit generated from the site convenient than actually making the journey claim that “everything in it, whether by transforming it from a loosely-controlled south,” says Mr Xu, a 28-year-old engineer, the rows of ancient houses, the peaceful attraction into a themed site. The villagers who along with his colleagues, is visiting hutongs or the old streets built with gray also featured in the plans. They would be the town as part of a team-building exercise. stone, display the authentic look of old required to give up their land, move to “Anyway, tourism is more about feeling. northern China” is extremly doubtful. new houses and make their income from Nobody takes a magnifying glass on holiday Former residents such as the hotelier Xu regulated tourism-related businesses. to check what is original and what is fake.” are now required to pay RMB150 to enter Ni Fengquan had lived in the old Indeed, there is no doubting Gubei is the town where their ancestors lived for Simatai village for 46 years before the all- picturesque. The houses are imaginatively hundreds of years. “The Great Wall was just too-familiar offer was made. He would be designed, the canals appear remarkably like a wall in my yard,” says Xu. “Now it costs compensated with RMB2,000 for each of clean, and golden ginkgo leaves fall an additional RMB40 to even walk on it.” the 170 square meters of his house, plus gracefully all around. For the former inhabitants of the some additional money for his fruit trees But a closer look reveals the town’s town, their fate was sealed in the spring on the mountain. Anyone with farmland somewhat superficial nature. On the of 2010, after they were visited by a group was promised RMB2,000 a year for every waterside, workers are building a of local government officials scouting for acre lost. The government would build the traditional-style house, but beneath the development locations. “I knew our village villagers new houses but they would have wooden exterior lays steel and cement. had tourism potential, thanks to our existing to be purchased using the compensation One of them is smearing mud onto a wall to canal and, of course, the nearby Great Wall,” payments. create the illusion of something well-worn. explains Xu. “But why transform it entirely Ni bought a very small apartment to On each outer wall, red and yellow creepers into a ‘historic’ water town?” save money and “feel safer”. Nonetheless, elegantly wind around gray and white But to Gubei’s developers, the question the remaining money was not enough to bricks, but again, on closer inspection it is was irrelevant. Creating a false sense of set up a homestay business, as some of the apparent that they are attached with iron history is now a common task in China’s other relocated families have. rings to dictate the direction in which they tourism industry. In Gubei’s case, a deal was “I never wanted to move. And as far as I grow. soon struck with the local government to know, most of the other villagers were not

18 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | city

“I neither understand nor care about The relocation packages may offer new homes and apparent improvements people’s standards on ‘real culture’. I to people’s quality of life, but the long- only know I benefit from the changes” term benefits are less clear, argues Beijing International University’s Wei Xiang. “The common practice is giving farmers some short-term benefit, like keen on moving out either. Our ancestors paying them money in a one-off package,” had their reasons when they chose that he says. “Although it looks, on the surface, site for the village. It has the best water as if the farmers’ living standards have resources, the best sunshine, and the best been improved, their ability to develop temperature. We had our own yards and big sustainably is damaged.” houses to run our own tourism businesses Nor have all of the relocation pledges by the Great Wall,” he explains. “None of the been honored, Ni claims. He interviewed new town is in any way real.” for one of the 3,500 positions opened to The historical inconsistencies are the villagers when the water town was glaring, according to Wei Xiang, director of completed, but was unsuccessful. “We the Leisure Tourism Research Center based don’t enjoy special treatment in the hiring in Beijing International University. While process as they promised,” he says. In fact, admitting that he admires the project’s none of the employees we speak to in the beauty, Wei considers it more like a theme water town are previous inhabitants of park with an injection of Chinese cultural Simatai village. tropes, rather than an accurate portrayal of But not all are as disillusioned as Ni. Mr ancient life. “Northern China has no water Chen, 45, who now lives in a village a few towns. It is a copy of Wuzhen, the famous hundred meters away from the water town water town in Zhejiang,” he explains. and is employed to row visitors around Sitting at the far frontier of China’s in a boat, identifies himself as one of the ancient empire, Simatai was the only part of project's beneficiaries. A former fisherman the Great Wall by flowing water. Prior to the and chestnut farmer, Chen is proud to have developers’ arrival, there were already as a job that “provides money, no matter what many as 300,000 yearly visitors to the area. the weather or whether there are fish in the Nonetheless, Lian Zifeng, Investment Miyun reservoir”. Deputy Director of China CYTS Tours “The canal is real, not like the Holding Co. Ltd., one of the project’s architecture. And look at that waterfall, it left: tourists watch a investors, admitted he was thrilled when is manmade. Isn’t it amazing?” Chen asks traditional acrobatics show in he heard of the plans to build a water town. proudly, pointing to a popular spot for gubei. below: the new simatai village, built to re-house The businessman immediately turned his photographs as he ferries us around the former gubei residents. mind to the question of how to develop it. town’s waterways. “People in Miyun have

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 19 city | Feature chinese urban dictionary | city

already sacrificed enough for Beijing’s prosperity,” Chen argues. not to have stopped people coming in droves from the capital. China “We don’t have a factory and I heard that in 15 years’ time, to CYTS Tours Holding Co. Ltd., reports that 776,300 tourists visited protect the environment, even raising poultry will be forbidden. the water town in the first three quarters of this year, generating Without developing tourism, what else can Miyun do? I neither revenue in excess of RMB145 million, far beyond expectations. understand nor care about people’s standards on ‘real culture’. I Surrounding businesses are also reportedly galvanized by the only know I benefit from the changes.” development. We find a salesman for Longfor Real Estate Group, Inside one of the town’s traditional southern China snack which owns a high-end residential compound inside the water restaurants, the proprietor leans on a black wooden table waiting town, trying to convince an old couple to invest. “It’s common for a for guests as smoke curls up from an antiquated-looking stove. Beijing family to have two or three houses,” he tells them. “One more After three months of training, she is expected to provide tourists house here will be the best choice for your retired life.” The couple with an authentic experience of southern cuisine. Next door, do not seem entirely convinced but still leave a phone number. 39-year-old Zhao Bao and three other workers are busy painting “The revenue from the tickets will not cover the investment in an advertisement board. In 1999, Zhao also worked on the Wuzhen the project. In the long-term, it’s more a real estate program rather Water Town project in Zhejiang, which provided the model for than a tourism program," says Wei Xiang. “I’m concerned about Gubei. this phenomenon. As China tightens restrictions on real estate “This water town is much bigger but, otherwise, almost the development and land policy, some developers are, in the name of same as Wuzhen,” he says. tourism, essentially resource-grabbing. Towns like Gubei are easy According to Zhao, to build a project like Wuzhen was unusual to copy at little expense. But developers rarely care if it is the right in the 1990s but in recent years, he has worked on many similar decision for the area.” developments around China. Statistics shared with us by Professor Back in the Simatai residents’ new village, Ni Fengquan is Wu Bihu from Peking University suggest that by the end of 2012, checking the water passing downstream from Gubei. He frowns, no less than 30 cities had joined, or were planning to join, the new complaining that it’s getting “worse and worse”. Ni claims that wave of ‘ancient’ town construction. These often pose grave threats the new hotels and restaurant are simply pouring their waste to the pre-existing (and genuine) ancient environments. water into the canal which dirties the supply used by dozens of Wei Xiang and his team at Beijing International University’s surrounding villages. He points to three rows of half-demolished Leisure Tourism Research Center claim to have been unable houses encircled by a blue iron protective fence. to find any instances of ancient town developments that On a dilapidated wall, a slogan pasted on during the Cultural successfully preserve traditions. “They all depend too much on Revolution is still visible. A deep, black ash on the bricks of the commercialization,” Wei suggests. “The only thing that makes them hearth serves as a reminder of the generations of families that had different from one another is which fakes look real and which fakes cooked by it. Some eggplants still stand in the middle of the yard, are more obviously fake.” dried, as if the inhabitants had left in a hurry. “Look, these are how But, in Gubei at least, the lack of genuine ancient culture seems the real old villages used to be like,” Ni says, turning toward home.

20 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com chinese urban dictionary | city feature | city Nuan'Nan /nuan nán/ 暖男

by Mia Li

Definition: noun. Literally meaning ‘boy of warmth’, nuan’nan, or ‘Sunshine Boy’, is defined as a man who is friendly, caring, and positive. The Chinese Prince Charming, he represents the perfect catch for any young women looking for a reliable man.

How to use it: A: I broke up with my boyfriend. His writing career is going nowhere and I think he’s clinically depressed. B: But his poetry is so deep and beautiful. A: I just can’t stand the weeping anymore. My next boyfriend has to be a nuan’nan. B: Agreed. I’d choose happiness over depth any day. Sign up for A: You look so happy! What’s up? 1 year B: My new boyfriend is a total nuan’nan. He is warm like a rice cooker. A: I love rice cooker boyfriends! They are the best. (12 issues) home delivery The defining characteristics of what female fantasies consider to be the ideal man seem to be heavily influenced by the spirit of the age. of That’s During wartime, women desire a ‘superman’ for protection and a greater sense of safety. In an economic recession, women might want Beijing for a ‘sugar daddy’ for financial security. During peaceful times, few can resist the ‘brooding English guy in Twilight’ for excitement, intrigue RMB240 and danger. And in modern day China? The womenfolk have spoken and the answer is: Sunshine Boy. The Sunshine Boy – or nuan’nan – makes others feel warm, welcomed and hopeful, like beams of sunshine in the morning. He is understanding and can smile all your troubles away. He never forgets an anniversary or birthday, your parents adore him and he even leaves the toilet seat down without being asked. He might not be wealthy, but he’s rich in empathy and positivity. He might not have the chiseled good looks of the ‘brooding English guy in Twilight’ but sometimes having a confident smile is sexier than photoshopped cheekbone definition. Nuan’nans are often compared to warm and joyful things, such as rice cookers, teapots, electric blankets and bun steamers. Those might not be the sexiest of household appliances, but here in China they’re essential and highly desirable. By cooking hot food for you, putting a coat over you and drawing hot baths for you, the nuan’nan warms your body. By giving you tight hugs, providing words of encouragement and listening with eager ears, a nuan’nan warms your heart. Bella the Mouth Breather from Twilight has nothing on girls who are in bed with a nuan’nan. Open your window and let the sunshine into your heart, ladies, for it’s a TEL: 84477002 cold world out there. [email protected] mia li is a news reporter in beijing by day; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 21 Folio 线 style radar LIFElife & style | Feature & STYLE

Covet Owl You Need Donning clothes and accessories from Chinese designer Yang Du – who’s known for whimsical collections spanning cartoon motifs, surreal art and animals – is like popping a happy pill: you don’t need too much else to lift your spirits. The Owl Bag is a case in point. Grinning back at you in a Crayola-crayon pink, this birdie is fashion at its most Made in China playful level. RMB4,500. > www.brandnewchina.cn DYWWA Sticky Eats It was Oscar Wilde who once We are suckers for stationery that’s decreed: “One should either be functional and aesthetically pleasing. a work of art, or wear a work of Or tasty, as in the case of these art.” But it is Alena Olasyuk who is sticky notes by Korean company taking the statement to heart. Mars Mers. They make us crave to- The 26-year-old creative – do lists and scribbled notes. Oh, and a graduate from the Ukrainian sausages too (they also come in the Arts College of Khmelnytsky and form of cheese, salami and pickles). the Beijing Institute of Fashion Delish. RMB46. Technology – is the founder of > available at page one, sanlitun taikoo li DYWWA, acronym for ‘Do You south, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区三 Want to Wear an Artwork?’, a 里屯酒吧街对面 (6417 6626) fashion-meets-art project that has been causing a stir among Beijing’s local trendsters. Experimenting with overheard associative realism and ink paintings, DYWWA consists of canvases and prints carved on “On a mid-winter’s day in woodcut and splashed onto T-shirts and other garbs – a rather Beijing, pollution masks interesting take on your standard graphic tee – providing, quite are an essential part of literally, art for your closet. Each print – 15 in total – is the wardrobe. But they’re numbered and signed by Olasyuk. They’re incredibly easy to wear also a fashion accessory and a kind of hybrid between street style and what is effectively — just like limited-edition artwork. Clothes don’t get more original than this. a handbag, RMB300 per T-shirt. > available at tu cheng, biFt, 2 Yinghua or a pair of dong Jie, chaoyang 朝阳区樱花东街甲2号北京服装学院 (6452 0943) shoes”

Harry Cole, Design Director for pollution mask company Respro, on the rising demand for ‘design masks’. Style-conscious Chinese urbanites are increasingly opting for funky numbers in different colors and patterns to match their individual outfits. This season also saw a number of Chinese designers – both here and abroad – sending models down the runway donning ‘fashionable’ pollution covers, some made of luxe materials like satin and crystal. It’s not going to be long before Louis Vuitton and Chanel embrace the trend too, probably.

22 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com Edited by Marianna Cerini / [email protected]

Spotlight Under the lens Vicky Mohieddeen, Head of Cultural Projects at Koryo Tours China Fashion Week

What brought you to Beijing? tonight?” The day will then include production I first came to Beijing in 2008 to visit my sister, meetings about the various film, photography who at the time was a weather presenter on and design projects we have on the burner, CCTV9, the best person you could have to multiple cups of coffee and time spent with show you around town. It was supposed to my intern – I love mentoring the young female be a four month stay… ‘till my first trip to the interns that come through the office. It goes DPRK [North Korea] and the launch of Electric from passing on technical video skills to saying Shadows [an independent film organization “this is why women never get raises, you have working with local cultural spaces and festivals] to ASK” twenty times a day. made staying seem very appealing. Then of course there’s the fact that funding for my job Your aesthetic in three words. as a filmmaker working with vulnerable young RuPaul’s Drag Race. people back by the UK was swallowed up in the financial crisis (who needs art?), which meant Favorite places to hang out in Beijing? remaining here was actually my only option. I have recently discovered the Friends Cafe down in Chaowai Soho, which is one of the Do you still run Electric Shadows? most ridiculous places in Beijing and has Yes, Electric Shadows still exists but on a more the double advantage of having the nicest pared down level than before. Over the last two waitresses in town and being directly above a years we have worked with the local promoter branch of Huang Tai Ji, where you can get the Splitworks to curate Asian Cinema Week for the most intense jianbing in Beijing. JUE Festival, and every summer we take over the lawn at Three Shadows Photography Art What’s in your bag right now? Centre for the Open Air Bike-In film screening. A pollution mask, two lip balms, a pot of hand When I first started screening films in Beijing it cream and a love letter to my long-distance was only because there was nowhere to watch lover (I really need to go to the post office). interesting art house movies. I’m thrilled to say five years on that’s no longer the case. What inspires you? All the people in my life, my sister, my former What’s your job about? Electric Shadows volunteers who still keep My work ranges from producing in touch, my fella, everyone who shops for time-lapse videos of Pyongyang clothes in the 3.3 center, and of course to coordinating international my friends doing incredible creative submissions to the things here and all over the world. Pyongyang International Film Festival. I also What’s the thing you couldn’t manage our social media live without? activities and produce Drums. Held in Beijing from the end of video content for our October through to the beginning of website. How has Beijing influenced November, China Fashion Week had your style? some pretty memorable moments When you aren’t in the DPRK, a Beijing gives me just enough this year – from remarkable couture typical day for you would be… anonymity to really wear shows to models walking the My day usually starts with me having whatever the hell I want. This is runway wearing porcelain masks a coronary trying to cycle to my also helped by the fact there are or fancy, crystal-embedded anti- Pilates class on time. After an hour of no fashion ‘rules’ here. Seeing pollution numbers. The highlight being ‘encouraged’ by a woman with what people are wearing on the though was probably makeup artist an impossible figure and an intense subway at 8am is clear evidence Mao Geping’s show. Using products Russian accent I get to the office and of that. Fishnets, multiple from his MGPIN collection, the spend a good half hour with a cup animal print, pajamas – you creative put on a seriously artful of coffee on TweetDeck scanning name it. presentation, adorning models with through my ‘North Korea’ column to embellishments, flowers and trinkets catch up on any new stories, filtering out If Beijing were a film, which one that verged on the crazy theatrical. all the mass retweets of “on a scale of would it be? Fine for Halloween, but not so much America to North Korea, how free are you Wall-E. during the rest of the year. photo by noemi cassanelli

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 23 Folio 线 life & style | Feature

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RMB eixing H > B 988 bralet ( by appointment only (www.love-pillowbook.com) 座 , RMB 30 8,000 oritz lock 30, 号二门 esign t. M 101 oor 2, B lace, 4/F, 2,160 onas’ D lash S 朝阳区 omo J 朝阳区建国路 (6416 1868) orso C C hin Kong P haoyang suitcase> www.jonasdesign.net boombox, RMB ardina andu, F C ad cover, RMBhaoyang omography,三里屯路 101, D iP omo, S (6530 5888) a S u, C 楼 L > L 4 orso C 号 anlitun L 87 S > 10 C 87 Jianguo L

, Beijingers are a busy bunch. So here at 1989

wift

RMB168. Taylor S > www.jd.com compile a holiday gift guide with plenty of suggestions and inspiration for you. From

so you don’t have to. Just don’t wait till the night before Christmas to get on it. 58 techies to beauty junkies, stocking fillers to grand gestures, we’ve done the

uang Huacun K beanie, RMB

> www.nuandao.com

24 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | life & style

朝阳区

ourtyard 4, haoyang u C pecials collection, (6586 RMBTBC 9507) enguin1 S ookworm,号院 C P 4 WW he B > T anlitun Nan L S 三里屯南路

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atooke N for ongcheng D

utong, custom-made fixie, RMB

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lace, 250 朝阳 ears RMB hin Konghaoyang P elettiaper, W S u, C (6530 5888) omo, S 楼 oilet P 4 T 号 orso C 87

> 10 C 4/F, 87区建国路 Jianguo L 西 3,000

350 , RMB rawford, 2 entlemen’s tonic hinese Blood G (6622 0808, we’ve scoured the city in a bid to 号 ayfairane set C 2 M > L oung C Y pocket square, RMB Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng 城区金城纺街 > www.younchineseblood.com www.lanecrawford.com.cn) That’s

1,280 11

i North, 11 988 座 , RMB 30 aikoo朝阳区三里屯路 L Marshall Major oritz lock 30, 号二门 t. M 101 haoyangNlg-03 (6417 9280) oor 2, B ro, Nlg-03 T u, C lash S 朝阳区 black headphonesrive P with mic, RMB > D (6416 1868) anlitun号太古里北区 L haoyang S ardina andu, F C omography,三里屯路 101, D a S L > L anlitun L S

Beijingers are a busy bunch. So here at Present

compile a holiday gift guide with plenty of suggestions and inspiration for you. From so you don’t have to. Just don’t wait till the night before Christmas to get on it. techies to beauty junkies, stocking fillers to grandper gestures, we’ve donef theect That’s Christmas Gift Guide

by Marianna Cerini

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 25 Folio 线 life & style | fashion

A new-fashioned Christmas Sartorial Tips for Your Holiday Parties

by Marianna Cerini

Christmas is about excess and celebration, snoozing and lunchtime boozing, loafing, laughing and arguing

with family members you see once a COS scuba coat, RMB1,900 year. > www.cosstores.com You’d think you wouldn’t need a style guide for that – onesie, a Christmas sweater, thick woollen socks and the job’s done – but just in case you do get asked to partake in some good ol’ festive revelry (and decide it’s worth leaving your house for), here’s some inspiration for looking your best this festive season. Take a cue and treat yourself. Merry Christmas.

Ted Baker clutch RMB1,499 > www.asos.com

Oasis faux fur tippet, RMB290 > www.asos.com

Topshop crop tee, RMB220 > www.topshop.com

H&M Skirt, RMB299 > www.hmW.com

Marks&Spencer bralet, RMB299 > www.marksandspencer.cn

H&M necklace, RMB99 Zara heels, RMB599 > www.hm.com > www.zara.cn

Zara dress, RMB499 26 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com> www.zara.cn fashion | life & style

H&M jumper, RMB149 > www.hm.com

Zara Men shoes, RMB899 > www.zara.cn

Uniqlo coat, RMB1,299 > www.uniqlo.cn

Ted Baker waistcoat, RMB2,529 > www.tedbaker.com

Normal, 'Extra Normal' watch, RMB1,400 > www.yetang.com

Uniqlo trousers, RMB199 > www.uniqlo.cn

Gap trousers, RMB399 > www.gap.cn

Asos bow tie, RMB93 > www.asos.com

Zara Men shirt, RMB359 > www.zara.cn

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 27 Folio 线 life & style | P.o.C Portrait of Xiao Bao | 30 China

“I give myself an 8.5 out of 10 today.”

“I think the clothes you wear should be able to show your personality, and these pull it off quite well. I’m wearing a silk slip – its colors make me feel amazing, especially since it’s so gloomy these days. I like mixing different styles and bright tones.”

“The only thing I’d change is my shoes. They’re a little bit too light.”

By Marianna Cerini / Photo by Noemi Cassanelli

28 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com Arrivals | life & style Scene &

Heard 4 by Marianna Cerini

2 n elli n oemi cassa y n elli n oemi cassa y photo b photo photo b photo

n elli n oemi cassa ④ Carhartt WIP y ③ fRUITYSHOP American work-turned-street ① 10 Corso Como b photo Beijing is many things, but a wear label Carhartt has been ② Radiance trunk After landing in Shanghai last place to look for vinyl records around since 1889. The company year, concept store 10 Corso Men, listen up: winter 2014/15 isn’t one. Cool crate-digging first started out producing Como has made the move north is all about hard graft, especially havens are hard to come by in work overalls, then branched to Beijing. The uber trendy manual labor. For your this city – that’s why audiophiles into functional and stylish emporium can be found on the wardrobe, this means functional will fall head over heels for garments like jackets and vests fourth floor of Shin Kong Place, clothes in hand-wearing fabrics fRUITYSHOP. A second-hand that, in the 1990s, became quite where it occupies 1,100 square and garments that feel luxurious record store hidden down a popular with crack dealers in meters of retail space spanning yet look utilitarian. Enter newly hutong just outside exit B of the States. As it goes, the ‘bad jewelry, clothing, accessories opened Sanlitun boutique Dongsi subway stop, the venture boy’ reputation got the attention and food. But be warned: this Radiance Trunk. A menswear – a reincarnation of former of street-ready American teens, isn’t your typical snooty high- shop specializing in apparel vinyl shop Strange Fruit 33 – is and the label became the hip end design shop. Launched by and accessories from European, housed in a traditional courtyard thing to wear. That’s a fashion Carla Sozzani – former editor-in- Japanese and American labels, residence, and manages to lesson for you. Now, Beijing chief of Vogue Italia and founder the store, whose original outpost sell coffee, drinks and records kids can get their hands on the of Italian Elle – and beautifully is in Lido, is the quintessential without being a cluttered, brand’s offerings – think rugged designed by American artist Kris stop for fancy workwear. Nigel cramped mess. On sale is an weather-proof clothes with a Ruhs, it embraces the philosophy Cabourn tweed jackets and impressive selection of used LPs, working-class vibe – in Taikoo of ‘slow shopping’, and looks denim trousers, Helly Hansen spanning a mishmash of genres Li South, where Carhartt WIP more like a meticulously put- shirts and a well edited selection including indie rock, reggae, dub, (Work in Progress) recently together ‘lifestyle hub’ blending of leather totes by bag label jazz and bluegrass. Whether opened a flagship. Taking on a art, music, fashion and design. Sandast are just some of the you’re a serious vinyl junkie contemporary industrial vibe, Prices are not for the faint- items strewn over retro-looking or casual collector, you’ll find the airy space features polished hearted, but the design overload furniture and vintage fixtures, plenty of exciting gems spread cement floors and ceilings of is certainly a sight to behold, offering a refined yet rather across the space, and easily corrugated aluminum panels. with merchandise including manly aesthetic that’s sure to dwindle away the better part of On show is a comprehensive items from indie and high-end win over well-heeled gents and an afternoon. Approachable help selection of the brand’s latest designers. There’s also a cafe/ regular guys who appreciate no- and knowledgeable buyers add range, all neatly laid out on steel restaurant and photography nonsense style. Prices start at to the overall experience. Oh, tables and racks. gallery. Worth checking out. around RMB1,000. they run events and screenings > b8-22/bldg 8 taikoo li south, 19 > 4/F, 87 Jianguo lu, chaoyang 朝阳区建 > 101 door 3, block 30, sanlitun bei lu, too. LPs start at around RMB100. sanlitun lu, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路国路87号4楼 (6530 5888) chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路30号3单元 > 17 dongsitoutiao, dongcheng 东城区东 19号太古里南区8号楼 101 四头条17号 (blog.fruityshop.cn)

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 29 Folio 线 life & style | Health

JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED ParkwayHealth Opens New Shunyi Clinic

With China continuing to demand higher and ophthalmology, dermatology and dental As well as English-speaking medical higher standards in medical services, there care. staff, the clinic also boasts doctors from has been a recent surge in international Although the Shunyi clinic only opens at as far afield as the USA and Germany. healthcare providers here in the capital. But the beginning of December, ParkwayHealth For Dr Xu and her colleagues, good care few come with the international standing of already has established partnerships with extends beyond medical practice and – ParkwayHealth, which has facilities in over organizations in the community, including refreshingly for a private health provider 35 locations across Asia. Sports Beijing, Heyrobics (and HeyRunning) – patients are not just seen as ‘customers’ With its headquarters based in and schools like the International School but as individuals with needs beyond their Singapore, the healthcare group has of Beijing (ISB) and Western Academy of immediate health concerns. built a reputation for adhering to strict Beijing (WAB). With so many international “‘To cure sometimes, to relieve often, international medical standards, a policy families based in the Shunyi area, the clinic to comfort always’ is our aim for bringing of non-profit drug provision and its high is hoping to offer a new level of medical quality medical services,” she explains. “In assessment standards for doctors. Residents excellence, according to one of the clinic’s medical practice, it is our role not only to of Shanghai, Chengdu and Suzhou may doctors, Dr Limei Xu, a family medicine and bring our patients professional knowledge be familiar with the service and, after the endocrinology expert who underwent her in treatment, but also to see the world in success of its first Beijing center at the heart medical training in Australia. the context of our patients’ fears, needs and of the CBD, the group has now launched a “At ParkwayHealth we provide general struggles. Internal staff training in this area second branch in the capital – this time in medicine and a range of specialties in our is always our priority.” Shunyi. medical services for patients, wherever Its exhaustive list of services includes they may be,” she explains. “We would like parkwayhealth Jingshun medical center 北京百汇京顺 family medicine, pediatrics, obstetrics to emphasize that our healthcare will be 诊所; mon-sat, 10am-6pm; 101-201, beijing link, block and gynecology, internal medicine, ear, boosted under the current health system in 2, courtyard 6, Jingshun dong Jie, chaoyang朝阳区 nose and throat (ENT), sports medicine, Beijing, especially for people who are from 京顺东街6号院2号楼北京link101-201室 (8444 2363, physical therapy, orthopedics, Traditional overseas and who are seeking convenient www.parkwayhealth.cn) Chinese Medicine (TCM), general surgery, and quality medical services.”

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE Beijing Aier Intech Eye Hospital

Founded in 1995, Beijing Aier Intech of highly qualified specialists. Eye Hospital is one of 50 fully-owned For our regular eye check-up subsidiaries of Aier Eye Hospital Group, (recommended to be annual for the largest and the first listed eye hospital adults, and every six months group in China. It’s ISO9001:2000-certified for children), Dr. He Chunchun, and an International SOS preferred hospital. the medical director of the Having been established for so long, its International Clinic, and a fluent international clinic is multilingual and fully English and French speaker, equipped to handle patients from the world checks the anterior segment of over – or “expat friendly” as they refer the eye with a slit lamp, then to it. As a result they have a direct billing checks the fundus with an indirect relationship with more than 40 foreign ophthalmoscopy. Routine eye and domestic insurance companies. Long checks also include long-distance overdue an eye check, we find ourselves and near-distance vision acuity, eye making tracks to Intech. pressure, and an automatic optometry test. of blindness for older people. An optometry Indeed, friendly is a pretty accurate Sometimes the pupil will need to be dilated test, carried out by Dr. Hao Jingjing is also description of the service you’ll receive for a more precise fundus check up. Such a offered to ensure we are wearing the correct there as, from elevator attendant to delicate organ requires a delicate procedure, prescription. Many of these eye conditions optometrist, every interaction we have is but luckily it’s quick and painless. (We leave (our infection included) can easily go met with a smile. Perhaps the most striking with eye drops to treat a slight infection unnoticed and undetected, despite being feature of the hospital is its design – no cold picked up from contact lens use.) easily treated. white walls or strip lighting – its warm, Due to the dry climate in northern wood finish makes it feel more like a library. China, many people suffer from dry eye, prices for a consultation fee, eye check and optometry But then the visuals are always going to be and will require a tear function test. OCT test start at rmb710, prices vary depending on patients’ carefully considered for a place whose focus scans are offered to those with macular needs. beijing aier intech eye hospital, panjiayuan plaza, is vision. degeneration, the loss of sight in the center No.12 panjiayuan Nanli, chaoyang 朝阳区潘家园南里12号 And that focus is enabled by a team of the field of vision which is a major cause 潘家园大厦 (6773 2700)

30 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | life & style

A Passion For Life With the Westin Tianjin General Manager, Ugur Lee Kanbur

Beijing often faces stinging criticism over its a hotel renowned for its holistic focus on apparent lack of family friendliness. wellness. “We strive to create a sense of Not so Tianjin. With it’s expansive, wellbeing in our hotels,” says Kanbur, who largely pedestrianized layout, green spaces before arriving in Tianjin, was responsible and strong sense of community, Beijing’s for opening the Westin Wuhan, the Westin eastern neighbor is a comparative sanctuary Mumbai and the Shanghai Westin on the for young international families and those Bund. “Our guests feel better when they keen to escape the capital. leave, than when they first arrived.” General Manager of the Westin Tianjin, Such a philosophy has helped the Ugur Lee Kanbur, who moved to the city Tianjin Westin to distinguish itself from nearly two years ago with his young son other internationally-minded competitors and wife, is emblematic of Tianjin’s growing – especially among those guests visiting number of international residents. “Tianjin the city on a weekend break from Beijing. Kanbur, though, has to work hard to is definitely a very family friendly city – and “Tianjin is a great city with a blend of the maintain the high standards guests have it’s exceptionally safe,” explains the affable old and the new. Summer and spring time come to expect of the hotel. “My passion and well-traveled Kanbur. are a particular favorite, and a great time to enjoy life and see others enjoying life “In my free time I like to take walks to experience wellness activities, Westin drives me. I am a perfectionist and I need to with the family to the historic – and former style!” says Kanbur. ensure things get done and get done right. British concession Wudadao [directly “We have the ‘Heavenly Spa’, the Westin That said, a hotel is a hotel is a hotel, as the behind the Westin], where we discover workout – that includes the lending of New saying goes... But not always. I find the locals quaint little cafes and enjoy our favorite dim Balance kit and shoes, our range of super here are not as passionate about hospitality sum. At the Minyuan Stadium, my son can foods, fresh juices at the juicery, a healthy and can be a little hesitant to serve… thus, ride his bike while we chill out on the grass. ‘eat well’ menu devised exclusively for constant training and motivation is required We also spend time swimming in the Westin kids, and not forgetting our world famous to ensure we maintain our high standards.” pool. My son is like a dolphin when he gets heavenly bed! My own favorite, however, is in the water!” the ‘Westin weekends’ with complimentary the westin tianjin, 101 Nanjing road, heping district, Kanbur’s active lifestyle complements late check-outs and late breakfast options,” tianjin 天津市和平区南京路101号 www.westin.com/ his role as General Manager of the Westin, explains Kanbur, enthusiastically. tianjin (022-23890088) KEEPING AHEAD OF THE COMPETITION With the Tangla Hotel Tianjin General Manager, Fintan O’Doherty

With Tianjin’s hospitality scene changing so new hotels have opened.” rapidly, the Tangla Hotel has already been With a self-professed mission to able to establish itself as part of the city’s innovate, the Irishman knows he must old guard. Having opened in the summer continuously improve to keep ahead of the of 2012, the centrally-located hotel has competition. So although the hotel picked cemented its place among Tianjin’s top up accolades in both ‘Best Buffet’ and ‘Best which O’ Doherty believes gives it a tier, becoming the first hotel in the Chinese Atmosphere’ categories at October’s That’s competitive edge in the eyes of guests, Mainland, and only the seventh globally, Tianjin Food and Drink Awards (the latter including its spacious rooms which, at 60 to be awarded the International Six Star for the hotel’s bar, China Bleu), O’ Doherty is square meters, he says are the biggest in the Diamond Award by the American Academy not one for complacency. city. Moreover, the Tangla Hotel’s position of Hospitality Sciences (and winning it three “Food and drink is a significant part on the bustling Nanjing Lu brings its own years in a row). But General Manager Fintan of our business so we’re always trying to advantages, which the General Manager O’Doherty is all too aware of the pressures do different things. Today, for instance, I describes as “very good for shopping and in the industry. was doing a food tasting for some special very good for sightseeing”. “This time 18 months ago there were winter dishes for our Chinese restaurant,” And anyone who has visited is sure 2,400 five-star rooms in the city. Now he explains. “On the 49th floor we’ve just to mention the unbeatable views, from there are about 4,500, so it’s brutal! The changed the buffet again with a whole new the rooms starting at the 35th floor to the competition is absolutely fierce,” he says. layout and a whole new range of foods. It’s panoramic vista of China Bleu on the 50th. “The demand hasn’t grown at the same very important to keep innovating. That’s So does O’Doherty think that the hotel rate because of the economy and the really what we’re after – trying to give the enjoys the best view in Tianjin? “Definitely!” government policy that stops officials from guests something new every time so they’ve going to five-star hotels. This has had an got a reason to come back.” the tangla hotel tianjin, 219 Nanjing lu, heping天津市和 effect on businesses everywhere in China – But there are also some unchangeable 平区南京路219号 (022 2321 5888) but particularly in Tianjin where so many features of the hotel’s ‘hardware’ something

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 31 collage

What’s new

Lanzhou alternative folk act Low Wormwood embark on a new chapter in their renowned career with Flowers and Trees. The six-song EP is their first for Modern Sky, the label that has taken kindred spirits Song Dongye and Peng Tan from coffee shops to concert halls. The album features the group at their mellowest and is available at buy.modernsky.com.

Drumroll We have two tickets for the Fallacy show, email bjeditor@ The Fallacy urbanatomy.com with the subject ‘lies’ for your chance to win.

The emotional and psychological effects of For years, all paths to Mainland musical recording style for capturing the group’s infidelity are explored in The Affair. Praised success passed through Beijing. But as musical growth. as one of this year’s best new programs, it’s China’s second- and third-tier cities swell, “From our first record to Debris, we buoyed by its shifting perspectives and an so do their cultural currency, allowing acts built up better mutual understanding of our accomplished cast featuring Dominic West like The Fallacy to build a national following music,” he says. (The Wire), Ruth Wilson (Luther), Maura from the suburbs of Henan Province. Paradoxically, that meant getting looser. Tierney (ER) and Joshua Jackson (Dawson’s “Xinxiang has a very rock atmosphere,” Debris layers shards of sharp riffs that Creek). The season finale is December 21 says singer-guitarist Wang Xubo. “While threaten to rail out of control, creating a and new episodes are streamable on Sohu the city is small, many bands include it in more menacing mood than the one found and Youku. their tours and there are several bands here. on their excellent 2011 debut The Silence of Personally, I don’t think it matters where Others. you’re from. Music is the most important Though released in March, the band thing.” are supporting it with their first national Formed in 2008, the trio has released tour that takes them to Yugong Yishan on two snarling records on Modern Sky. December 7. Wang marvels at the 21-city Musically, they’re carrying the torch for itinerary, admitting “there’s no telling what China’s Internet-driven post-punk tradition, will happen”, but promises The Fallacy are which flourished a decade ago, producing at their nastiest on stage. acts like Carsick Cars and Hedgehog. He’s encouraged that “indie music Wang believes that young Chinese is really starting to affect young Chinese musicians are attracted to pioneers like Joy people”, shouting out Xi’an’s The Fuzz. In Val Wang’s coming-of-age memoir, Beijing Division, The Birthday Party and Swans, Following the tour, The Fallacy will work Bastard, she describes a young Chinese- “because of their independent attitude, their on their third record, eyeing a late-2015 American woman’s search for identity artistic approach and just the greatness of release. Wang’s also forming a second group in the country her parents left decades the music”. and talks up the advantages of being a earlier. Wang deftly details the vast cultural The grand old man of Chinese art- suburban artist. dichotomy, with stories of living with punk, P.K. 14 frontman Yang Haisong, gave “Life is comfortable with less pressure,” traditional relatives in hutongs to finding The Fallacy the ultimate seal of approval he says. “It allows us to put more energy her calling for making documentaries producing their sophomore record Debris. into the band and making good music.” AC while hanging in Beijing’s burgeoning Describing the sessions as “a very happy > Dec 7; yugong yishan (see listings for details) contemporary arts scene. Available on time”, Wang praises Yang’s live-to-tape Amazon.

32 | DEcember 2014 | www.thatsmags.com Canvassed Hao Bu Hao The New Masters

Hao Steven Spielberg will lend a hand in designing Beijing Universal Park. Set to open in 2019, it’s the latest in China’s theme park boom that includes projects by Hello Kitty creators Sanrio, Disney and Dreamworks. Locals DreamEast are also getting in on the act with two mammoth projects devoted to Chinese culture and pre-historic civilization in development.

Back in May of this year, That’s Beijing Chief Editor Stephen George followed two teenage cage-fighting hopefuls across China, as they sought out a career in the grueling world of professional Chinese MMA [Mixed Martial Arts]. Now comes a new documentary by Beijing- based filmmakers shedding more light on this fascinating world – featuring many of the same characters detailed in Stephen’s MMA cover story. Director Christopher Cherry describes the project in his own words: “Over the past couple of decades, kung fu has taken a back seat to a new combat phenomenon, mixed martial arts. MMA is one of the fastest growing sports in the world and the new proving ground for anyone who considers themselves ‘the baddest man on the planet’. “Our movie, The New Masters, explores the meeting of these two martial styles in Chinese Bu Hao Mainland. We follow MMA fighters and kung fu masters as they navigate new landscapes, feed Going, going, gone! Last month, 63 auction their families, seek out the Tao, and fight for the pride of a nation. The film will also explain houses were ordered to temporarily how the martial arts in China are a metaphor for China’s own emergence onto the world stage. shut down for failing to meet industry Traditional culture, in this case kung fu, is being diluted and transformed by commercial regulations set in 2012. Rules require considerations and the sweeping power of globalization, represented by MMA and the general that employed experts must be trained mixing of martial arts worldwide. Bruce Lee exported kung fu to America, and now it’s being by the State Administration of Cultural re-imported back via MMA. How will the old system fight for its own survival?” Heritage of China in a course that costs up > the new masters is currently under production and seeking funds. more details can be found at to RMB10,000 and has a pass rate of 20 www.thenewmastersdocumentary.com percent.

www.thatsmags.com | DEcEmber 2014 | 33 Folio 线 ARTS | underground

Did you hear about that Taylor Swift vs. Spotify like a loveable Teutonic toe-rag from behind the thing? If not, you definitely haven’t been within decks, after coming up out of a trap-door in the the shouting distance of me. Long story short, she DJ booth. These days he’s working the festival- pulled her music from all free streaming apps, friendly EDM angle, but still keeps it interesting. including those in China, and caused a right old I might actually go to Circle for this one. bally-hoo. But while I was scrabbling around Dada’s program this month is straight- drop trying to make sense of it all, I discovered just up fire. It’s actually hard to pick one, but I’m how useful a tool apps like Xiami, QQ Music gonna go for the SubCulture 7th Anniversary and Wangyi are for linking up electronic artists, on December 12 with Kode9 and DJ Spinn. Beats, Blops promoters and fans in China. Dubstep OG Kode9 has been a long-time Just to make this clear – I know they’re not supporter of the bass music scene in China, and Breaks new. But nowadays, we’re seeing these easy- linking with Chinese artists and naming songs to-use apps making better use of functions like after Shanghai streets. Spinn meanwhile, is curated DJ playlists, recommended electronic part of the liquid-hot-magma core of Chicago releases and podcast functionality to cram footwork producers shaping the future of brand new Western and domestic dance tunes electronic music, as well as the sound of the right into the phones and brains of China’s Gulou underground. Both these guys have increasingly open-minded music consumers. plenty of tunes on Xiami ready to gobble up They share, they discuss, they become more your mobile data. engaged, and they eventually come out to gigs. Finally, happy fourth birthday to Dance Then go home and make tunes of their own… Dangereux, a disco flap-out that’s had maybe. everyone mincing around Migas for as long Here’s a few DJs playing in December, most as I can remember (I arrived just before their of whom you can check out on Xiami before you first party… but hey, this isn’t about me). Check go. ’em out on December 19 at their birthday Perennial Beijing visitor Boys Noize is back party at Migas with Rodion, who produced the in town on December 4 to capitalize on his forthcoming Nova Heart album (see page 36) literally millions of plays on Chinese streaming and apparently is the ‘King of Queer Voodoo apps. I remember this dude’s first gig here in Beats’, which frankly I wouldn’t have expected by Alex Taggart 2010 on Tango’s third floor, when he was still to even have a monarchy. a wee electro-house bairn – he rose, grinning Beijing bestsellers

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34 | DEcember 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | arts

The Modern Maestro Dan Deacon on Mixing DIY Electronics with Contemporary Classical

by Andrew Chin We have two tickets for Dan Deacon, email bjeditor@urbanatomy. com with the subject ‘Oh, Danny Boy’ for your chance to win.

In just over a decade, Dan Deacon has gone founded the Wham City Collective with local from rocking Baltimore house parties to musicians, visual artists and comedians. “The live show is pretty loud paying tribute to avant-garde composer They routinely held popular underground and hopefully people will John Cage at Carnegie Hall. His experimental parties in the city throughout the decade and DIY take on electronic music has made and Deacon wrote their unofficial theme dance” him a modern icon, granted his own unique song, ‘Wham City’ on 2007 the album space in the musicphere. He’s taking a Spiderman of the Rings. added woodwind and brass. quick break from recording his follow-up to His first full-length album to be The album was praised for its blend 2012’s America, for his first Mainland tour, commercially released was an unexpected of electronics with live instruments and stopping off at MAO Livehouse on December detour towards accessibility. Full of melodic Deacon’s heightened song craft. While 6. keys and hyperactive drums, the album retaining a pop flourish, he slips in plenty He’s going back to his one-man band defined Deacon’s sound which he describes of political musings inspired by his frequent roots for the show, performing solo with as “electronic music that’s more rooted in cross-country tours of the country. a seemingly endless array of toys. While the punk or rock of new wave compared to “Most of my lyrics are introspective his music has morphed, his reputation other ‘electronic music’”. and tend to be on the darker side of my for euphoric live performances filled with Each subsequent release burnished personality, while the music is more a audience participation and interaction Deacon’s underground cred. Now he method of dealing with those mindsets,” he remains. tours across the United States with hip explains. When asked for a preview, the 33-year- contemporaries Deerhunter and No Age in a While he confirms he’s working on old is elusive. “I’m not sure how I’ll be customized vegetable oil powered bus. His America’s follow-up, he’s wary of offering interacting with the audience but time will composition skills caught the ears of The any further details. Looking back at his tell,” he says. “The live show is pretty loud Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola, career, he’s astounded by the changes in and hopefully people will dance.” who asked Deacon to score 2011’s Twixt. the music industry. He praises the current He does confirm that “most of the Deacon’s become increasingly active climate for “the endless amounts of shows are crazy,” and is excited to delve in the contemporary classical scene. available music,” predicting “many inspiring into his shapeshifting discography. Deacon’s The Kitchener-Waterloo Symphony in changes to sounds and the cultural merging always been diverse. While studying Canada were the first to perform one of of music”. classical composition at the Conservatory of his orchestral works and he describes his He worries, however, that he’s the last of Music at New York State University, he was Carnegie Hall show with Matmos and So a dying breed. In an increasingly corporate moonlighting in an array of groups ranging Percussion as “laid-back”. world. “Many people aspire to be like what from grindcore to ska to chamber music. He’s beginning to merge both sides of they hear on the radio, rather than a direct His first releases were sonic his musical personality, hinting at adding rejection of that,” he sighs. experiments, self-released on CD-Rs. more classical pieces to his next album. They mixed live ensemble recordings America was capped off with a titular four- Dec 6, 9pm; rmb120-140; mao livehouse, see listings with computer music, including a series song suite, an astonishingly sprawling for details (yoopay.cn/event/DanDeaconbJ) comprised of sine wave compositions. soundscape littered with wild synth riffs, In 2004, he moved to Baltimore and co- cooing vocals and the orchestral heft of

www.thatsmags.com | DEcEmber 2014 | 35 Folio 线 ARTS | feature

In the dozen years since returning to her birth country, Helen Feng has been a vital force in the Mainland music scene. She’s been a cultural commentator as host of The Rock Show, a creative entrepreneur with the FakeMusicMedia collective that she co- founded, and the front woman for three seminal groups. Often dubbed the “Queen of Beijing rock”, she’s closing in on her crowning achievement as her current group Nova Heart storm through the country to support their highly anticipated self-titled debut album.

All Hail the Queen “It’s time for the Nova Heart’s Helen Feng is Ready to be Crowned music in China to by Andrew Chin start creating new trends; not just regurgitate old ones”

“We wanted to make an album that sounds like a movie soundtrack for a weirdly experimental yet epic film from the late 60’s and 70’s but interpreted through a band that exists now”

36 | DEcember 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | arts

backstage at the MIDI Festival in underground to the global spotlight. Shanghai, an interview crammed “We just got way more love in other countries,” Feng in as she zips from one media explains. “When we first started, some audiences were obligation to the next. disappointed when they didn’t get the Pet Conspiracy Feng’s first group, Ziyo was thing with us. Overseas, people didn’t come to the show among the leaders of Beijing’s expecting to see me in my shiny spandex jumping off of Internet-inspired rock scene that drum sets. They actually listened to the music.” spawned current standouts like Europe has played a prominent role in Nova Heart’s Carsick Cars, New Pants and Queen story. At the end of Pet Conspiracy’s 2010 tour of the Sea Big Shark. Their infectious mix continent, Feng quit the group to focus on shifting of indie rock guitars with a dance Ziyo’s musical direction under the new band name, beat scored them an ill-fated major Free the Birds. Before returning home, she spent a few label deal with Warner Records. days partying in Istanbul, randomly meeting producer Next came Pet Conspiracy – a Rodion – dubbed by Mixmag as “the new genius of Italian groundbreaking act that layered her dance music.” punkish vocals over harsh electro Eager to collaborate, Feng sent self-produced tracks beats. Later, she went to Hollywood, from Beijing to Rome where Rodion injected an ‘evil disco’ where she sang the theme song to sheen. Nova Heart quickly swelled from a solo project to The Mummy III. a trio comprised of Beijing rock vets: ex-Hedgehog bassist Bo Xuan and current Hedgehog drummer Atom. Their debut EP Beautiful Boys was released in 2012 receiving attention from NME to Rolling Stone. The single ‘My Song 9’ scored high radio rotation across Australia on the radio network Triple J, a first for a Chinese act. “It’s time for the While the disc contains only four songs, it highlights the band’s distinct but accessible sound – a late night electro mix intended for play after the club. Their music in China to aesthetic was perfectly captured in the music video for ‘Beautiful Boys’, which documents three working girls on the job in Beijing. start creating new Despite past accolades, Feng still succumbs to pre- release jitters. Recorded in Berlin, Feng lists off the wide range of sonic influences on the debut album, from trends; not just psychedelic rock to LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy’s DFA label and the reverb-drenched guitars of Morricone’s spaghetti western scores. regurgitate “The album is much moodier and darker. The sound has a story behind it from the other musicians and the collaboration with Radion went deeper, as we both went old ones” through a bit of unrelated personal trauma, which is reflected in the album,” she says, before cracking. “I like to “Girls like to be called Feng also contributes in other describe it as an album of quintessential existential crisis.” queens and princesses, so hand me ways. Her FakeMusicMedia collective Although some of Nova Heart’s tracks are already my tiara bitch,” Feng jokes, before has, this year alone, brought staples of the band’s live shows, Feng promises they will abdicating her royal title. international stalwarts like CSS, Hot be “presented in a different way”. “I’m more like a nerdy girl in Chip, Andy Rourke from The Smiths The band is supporting the record with an eight-city one of those 80s teen flicks who and Bloc Party’s Kele Okereke over national tour, their first in over a year. While Feng praises does one of those music montage for Mainland shows. Their Electric music festivals for taking the group over the world, she’s transformations to become Olivia City nights are a collaboration with eager to present Nova Heart “in a controlled atmosphere Newton John at the end of Grease, Beijing’s Pilot Records, aiming to that better expresses what we want to do”. except way less skinny and unable to provide “a platform for artists to For one of the country’s most creative groups, the wear leather pants to this day.” educate, share, create and ultimately potential for presentation are endless and Feng does While she threatens to dig out work with young developing artists nothing to tone down expectations by keeping a tight lid pictures from her “show choir days to help them mature to where they on details. in high school with a bad perm, can go onto the world stage”. “We wanted to make an album that sounds like a movie braces and oversized flannel shirts”, “It’s time for the music in China soundtrack for a weirdly experimental yet epic film from it’s hard to imagine Feng as anything to start creating new trends; not just the late 60s and 70s but interpreted through a band that less than the magnetic stage regurgitate old ones,” Feng adds. exists now,” she teases. presence that elicits comparisons She’s walking the walk with “An emotional thriller, a horror movie for the modern to Debbie Harry and Jim Morrison Nova Heart. Despite forming in age, but without all the cheesy conventions. Something (though she even once commanded 2011, the band has already laid [David] Lynch, [Stanley] Kubrick or [Roman] Polanski the stage at the 2010 MIDI Festival the groundwork internationally, would direct. Good music for your home psychoanalysis in a wheelchair, the result of a stage touring five continents and session, on a fair amount of acid.” dive gone wrong). becoming festival favorites from Adding to Feng’s star power, is the Mainland to Madagascar. Raised november 12, 9:30pm-11,30pm; rmb80; yugong yishan, see listings for her non-stop rock star schedule. in North America, Feng is the details We’re doing a walk-and-talk perfect ambassador to bring China’s

www.thatsmags.com | DEcEmber 2014 | 37 Folio 线 ARTS | FILM

This month, Chinese real-life beauty pageant that attracted Shanghai’s elite, Jiang and Ge You (To blockbusters take over Live) star as the organizers. When an unexpected winner is chosen, it sets off cineplexes, with the a chain of tragic events. Zhou Yun and the stars of last year’s box office winner Mainland’s most anticipated Journey to the West: Conquering the Demons, Shu Qi and Wen Zhang round out film Gone with the Bullets the impressive cast. opening on December 18. Its producers are talking In the Heat of the Sun 阳光灿烂的日子 | 1994 big, predicting the 1920s Shanghai-set 3D-gangster Any discussion about the Mainland’s greatest film must include Jiang’s action caper will top Golden Horse Award winning-debut. Using Wang Shuo’s Wild Beast as a Transformers: Age of Extinction’s USD227 million mark framework and injecting plenty of personal memories, In the Heat of the Sun is a to become the country’s highest grossing film ever. unique coming-of-age story set in the Cultural Revolution. Told as an unreliable Regardless of its bottom line, it’s the latest statement memory, the film follows Monkey and his pals running wild on the eerily empty by actor/writer/director Jiang Wen. Over five films, he’s streets of Beijing over a summer. While there’s plenty of antics, including a crafted a fascinating filmography, evolving from art house brutal bricking of a rival, it’s primarily about being on the wrong side of a love provocateur to box office king. triangle. Quentin Tarantino called it “really great”.

Devils on the Doorstep 鬼子来了 | 2000 This is black comedy at its darkest. Inspired by You From Scorsese Fengwei’s novella Survival, Jiang stars as a peasant who is forced at gunpoint to take custody of two prisoners of the Japanese army. As time passes, the village falls into a dilemma of what to do, setting off a bleak comedy of to Spielberg errors. Shot in black and white to mimic old-time war films, it captured the Grand Prix Award at the Cannes Film Auteur Jiang Wen Sets the Festival.

Mainland Standard The Sun Also Rises 太阳照常升起 | 2007 Jiang takes a major step forward as a director on the by Andrew Chin Golden Lion nominated film. Partially shot in Yunnan’s LEt the Bullets Fly Shangri-la and the Gobi Desert, The Sun Also Rises uses its 让子弹飞 | 2011 lush visuals and Joe Hisaishi’s elegant score to create magical realist visual poetry. Loosely inspired by Ye Mi’s Velvet, Jiang Based on a Ma Shitu story, the deftly jumps through time using four narratives to tell the 1920’s Sichuan-set action comedy tragic fates of a widowed mother and son. Considering all was a game changer, becoming the the artistic flourishes, the first domestic film to gross over story slightly disappoints. USD100 million. Jiang stars as a However, the film never roguish bandit/fake governor who lags due to its impressive enters a game of one-upmanship cast, with especially with Chow Yun Fat’s cunning strong performances by mobster. The film crackles with Zhou Yun (Bodyguards thrills, using its setting to create a and Assassins) and Joan modern take on the Chinese western Chen (Twin Peaks). Even that channels the mischievous Jaycee Chan is tolerable. spirit of Stephen Chow and the pure thrills of 80s classics like Romancing the Stone and Indiana Jones. It’s the first of Jiang’s Bullets trilogy, a loosely connected set of big-budget historical action films.

Gone with the Bullets 一步之遥 | Dec 18, 2014 With its estimated RMB122 million budget, pioneering use of IMAX cameras, backing from Colombia Pictures and assistance from members of Scorsese’s crew, Gone with the Bullets is shaping up to be the biggest Mainland cinematic extravaganza ever. Inspired by the Flowers Competition, a notorious

38 | DEcember 2014 | www.thatsmags.com BOOKS | arts

feature | arts Frog Nobel Prize Winner Mo Yan’s Latest Work by Aelred Doyle

In a rare interview, winner of the 2012 only acts to reduce our engagement Nobel Prize for Literature, Mo Yan, told with the characters. German newspaper Der Spiegel: “China Mo Yan is clearly an excellent has gone through such tremendous writer. At his best, Frog is engrossing change over the past decades that most and its village of characters becomes of us consider ourselves victims. Few vivid through the accumulation of people ask themselves, though: ‘Have I detail and precise grotesquerie (Mo also hurt others?’ Frog deals with this has described his work as “peasant question, with this possibility.” writing”). Late in the book there is a It's an admirable ambition and his wonderful depiction of Tadpole chasing success in achieving it can be more a thief, only to be turned on by the widely judged with the arrival of the whole town and chased himself. long-awaited English-language edition of Early in the book, young Tadpole the novel, which was originally written describes what it was like to eat coal in 2009 and now translated by the and, in general, the writing in these prolific and lauded Howard Goldblatt. early sections is nicely balanced In a sense, Frog covers well-trodden between sharp accuracy and light territory. As he has done previously, satire. “What I don't understand, Mo sets the novel in his own childhood Sensei, is why people have to be so home of Gaomi County in Shandong horrible” – here, the plaint is moving Province. But this time around, his and earned. focus is markedly more contemporary. Writing in the London Review Having lived through the Great Leap of Books, Nikil Saval notes that “a Forward and the Cultural Revolution, he boundless disregard of tone is indeed often approaches these subjects (either Mo Yan’s signature”. It’s a point well obliquely or directly) in his work. While made and the tendency of characters to Frog does examine the latter period, the move between earthy quips and grand book largely tackles the consequences declamation is a problem from the of China’s one-child policy through the start. story of the narrator’s aunt (who in Gugu’s highly symbolic form of the novel is known as Gugu – ‘father’s madness in her later days is more sister’), a gynecologist. literary device than genuine neurosis, Based on Mo’s own aunt (he has “China has gone through such and the very end of the book goes badly apparently asked her not to read tremendous change that most wrong, with Tadpole deciding to write the book on the grounds that it will the last section of the story (remember, anger her), Gugu is a woman of fierce of us consider ourselves victims. these are his letters) in the form of a intelligence and courage who saves lives Frog deals with the question: play. This form does have the benefit by favoring a modern medical approach of haste – illuminating the themes of over more primitive, traditional ‘Have I also hurt others?’” selfishness, corruption and the never- practices. When her fighter pilot fiance ending sway of superstition. But it’s too defects to Taiwan, her reputation is follows Tadpole from the hard days of the much, too late. ruined and the woes of the Cultural mid-20th century to modern day China. But then who are we to argue with Revolution envelop her. It is in these later present-day sections the Nobel judges? Frog has proven Gugu’s role develops as the one- that things go wrong, for characters and divisive since it’s first publication and child policy is rolled out, with the first readers alike, as Tadpole and his wife, Little perhaps should be read for this alone. two thirds or so of the novel charting Lion, stumble upon an illegal operation her passage from heroism to fanaticism. that comes to include a terrified surrogate Frog by mo yan (penguin) is available at the But Mo’s attempts to probe are obscured mother, a Don Quixote-themed restaurant bookworm and amazon. by the growing absurdity of the plot in and some rather reprehensible behavior. We the book’s later stages, as Mo throws the are taken so far from reality, and movement stylistic kitchen sink at his themes. is so bogged down in metaphor and the We have a copy of Frog to give away. The letters from the narrator, subsequent explanation of these metaphors Simply answer the following: Tadpole, to his friend, a Japanese (‘wa’, the Chinese word for frog – the novel’s professor (which are written from the original name – sounds very similar to a What year was the one-child policy implemented? vantage point of old age) form a framing word for ‘baby’ – you’d better believe that device that adds nothing to the book. Mo grinds hard at linguistic quirks), that Send your answers to win@urba- They seem only to exist to liberate Mo we find our patience tried rather than our natomy.com with the subject ‘Frog’ by Dec 18 for your chance to win. from a conventional narrative that empathy won. The plot’s surreal veneer

www.thatsmags.com | DEcEmber 2014 | 39 40 HEROES Model Workers BY ERIK CROUCH

Pole Dancing Granny Twelve months can feel like a long, long time in China. Unlike most countries, When we think of pole dancers, the first where growth rates languish just above person who comes to mind is Dai Dali, zero, nothing new gets built and change is a 68-year-old retired bookseller from something to fend off at all costs, we enjoy Sichuan. Dai first wrapped herself around a gloriously unpredictable yearly cycle. a pole about three years ago and has since Throw 1.3 billion people into the mix and garnered moderate fame as ‘China’s Oldest the number of stories spanning the globally Pole Dancer’. She has even gone so far as to significant, the unprecedented and the get a pole installed in her bedroom, where downright strange only increases further. she can practice her spins, twirls and flips Jack Ma 2014 was no different. all day long. But attempting to make grand, sweeping conclusions about what a year’s worth Haters gonna hate, but if anyone truly of news means for a country of this size deserves to look back at 2014 with a sense would be, in our view, largely meaningless. of genuine accomplishment, it’s elfling king So instead, our review of the year is merely a Jack Ma. The Alibaba founder slayed the New collection of our favorite stories from Beijing York Stock Exchange in September with its and beyond. biggest-ever IPO, becoming China’s richest In the following pages we pick our he- man in the process. In May, he out-crazied roes, villains, and lookalikes of the year, as other eccentric CEO zillionaires by staging well as reviewing the biggest happenings in a massive 102-couple-strong mass wedding the worlds of art and sport. In the name of in Alibaba’s corporate headquarters in public interest journalism we also debunk Hangzhou. Meanwhile on Singles Day – which saw record profits for Alibaba – Ma the scourge of our trade – made-up news took the cult leader trip to a whole new – as well as asking Beijing locals who they offerings presented to him at impromptu level when he was literally enshrined, with thought reigned large in the last 12 months, from Xi Jinping to their own supportive altars set up by Taobao devotees across mothers... Behold, 2014! China.

Zhang Zhaozhong “Laser weapons are most afraid of smog”

COVER STORY COVER were the confident words of PLA Admiral Zhang Zhaozhong, espousing his pro-pol lution views on CCTV in February. Admiral - Zhang told viewers that while the tactical smokescreen of smog may have some draw backs (see: ability to breathe, cancer, etc.) it also functions as a state-of-the-art barrier against American laser weaponry. Internet users were less than thrilled by the PM2.5 apologist, however, causing Zhang to clarify and say: “I was talking about the weakness Gaokao Cheaters of the laser gun, not advocating for smog.” Chen Zhonggui Makes the list for sheer audacity alone.

Insanegaokao test-related stress is the mother of 64-year-old Chen Zhonggui of Wuhan invention (or something like that) and this sacrificed his life after he and six members year’s saw test-cheating innovations of his winter swimming team braved the underthat would their turn shirts, James hid transmittersBond green with inside cold and strong currents of the Yangtze to envy. Students slipped radio-equipped vests save three young tourists. Chen belonged to a volunteer rescue team, who themselves pens and rigged cameras into their glasses. deserve recognition for their tenacity. Unfortunately for the students, we have The average age for members is 55 and only heard of these innovations because they have an impressive tally of rescues, they were discovered and posted online by erectingsaving 200 a statue people at in the the side last of 17 the months. Yangtze various school authorities. They win points The Wuhan party secretary has proposed for creative thinking and ability to think ‘outside the box’. in honor of the heroic senior. COVER STORY 41 BY ERIK CROUCH ERIK BY Running Dogs Running , as it Times VILLAINS VILLAINS purchase didn’t go through, go through, didn’t purchase Times Maybe feeling confident after reading reading confident after feeling Maybe One woman called the event “a called the event One woman Chen offered the poor Americans Chen offered The business card, which appeared online in appeared which business card, but the impoverished visitors to Chen’s Chen’s to visitors but the impoverished lunch extravaganza were serenaded by the by serenaded were lunch extravaganza headlines about him in the press? Nope. the press? headlines about him in titles, Chen Guangbiao his self-appointed that a reporter telling this by he prefaced happens, is owned by a non-practicing a non-practicing by happens, is owned the country’s oldest homeless shelter. the country’s oldest homeless shelter. the end of Chen’s business in the Big Apple. the end of Chen’s host a 1,000-strong fruition: plans to to up. find out that the USD300 gift had been to and “a the rich” trick for propaganda many American newspapers are owned by by owned are American newspapers many some 200 of New “a shambles” after into of rendition ear-wrenching millionaire’s USD300 each, and coordinated the event the event USD300 each, and coordinated collapsed event the entire Unfortunately, soon announced a humble plan. To buy buy soon announced a humble plan. To sense, but millionaire narcissist Chen narcissist sense, but millionaire surprisingly enough, but that was far from from far but that was enough, surprisingly January. But Chen was only just warming just warming only But Chen was January. Jews and that “I’m very good at working good at working and that “I’m very Jews Um, OK. (The with Jews”. Mission, City Rescue with the New York as he likes it – with plenty of attention plenty of attention it – with as he likes promised, were they of the money any China”, “China Moral Leader”, “Most Well- “Most Leader”, “China Moral China”, on his upon himself Official titles bestowed Guangbiao’s 2014 certainly started off started 2014 certainly Guangbiao’s Central Park lunch for “poor and destitute “poor and destitute lunch for Park Central Known and Beloved Chinese Role Model”: Chinese Role and Beloved Known He may not be a villain in the strictest not be a villain in the strictest He may Episcopalian). coming was masterpiece June, Chen’s By coming his way. “Most Influential Person of “Most Influential Person coming his way. received not have may They disgrace”. canceled. Chen Guangbiao York City’s poor gathered with Chen, only with Chen, only City’s gathered poor York . For whatever reason, reason, whatever . For Times The New York Americans”. ‘We are the World’. Nailed it. the World’. are ‘We - - - Comments ranged from the unprint- the from Comments ranged buy a drivers’ license. All for a fee. Among a fee. license. All for a drivers’ buy beliebable) and just wanted a photo with a photo beliebable) and just wanted lives of seven of his classmates. This year, This year, of his classmates. of seven lives however, his status crashed after he was he was after his status crashed however, help peo- he could use his ‘connections’ to of one year, his girlfriend his victims was ple get jobs, get their children into school or into ple get jobs, get their children paid a visit to none other than Japan’s none other than Japan’s paid a visit to position above his knee-length white hoody hoody his knee-length white position above ten a glimpse. El Bieber later apologized for apologized for El Bieber later a glimpse. ten that he had essentially, saying, the photos nals. Naturally enough, he Instagrammed it. he Instagrammed enough, nals. Naturally inflame the Chinese web’ handbook, Justin handbook, Justin inflame the Chinese web’ ing one with the Biebs’ hands in a praying ing one with the Biebs’ hands in a praying had got of his 5.1 million followers many Japan.” you China and I love you I love ry. no idea what the hell was going on (most the hell was no idea what whom he swindled out of RMB10,000. Lei out of RMB10,000. Lei he swindled whom Justin Bieber advantage of his fame and told others that and told of his fame advantage Lei Chunian ably obscene to the morose (“As a Chinese (“As the morose obscene to ably Chunian: a great guy to have around in an around have to guy Chunian: a great a shrine. He closed his remarks saying: “To “To saying: a shrine. He closed his remarks sor I am extremely offended I have anyone Empire of Japan, including 1,068 war crimi of Japan, including 1,068 war Empire Belieber, I am so sad”). The photos – includ- I am so sad”). The photos Belieber, earthquake, not too great anytime else. anytime great not too earthquake, quick thinking during China’s disastrous disastrous quick thinking during China’s than 20 people out more defrauding caught of thousands of RMB. Lei took of hundreds devoted to those who died in service of the those who to devoted 2008 earthquake in Sichuan saved the in Sichuan saved 2008 earthquake Taking a lead from page one of the ‘how to to page one of the ‘how a lead from Taking Yasukuni Shrine, a hotly controversial site site controversial Shrine, a hotly Yasukuni ‘Heroic Youth’ Lei was a national idol: his was Lei Youth’ ‘Heroic – were soon taken down, but not before but not before down, soon taken – were hire cars and taxi cabs, Beijing’s new breed cars and taxi cabs, Beijing’s new breed hire the country emptying their burger chutes chutes the country emptying their burger to roll out a 24-hour home delivery home delivery out a 24-hour roll to tip), the chances of being able to grab a taxi grab able to tip), the chances of being products with new expiration dates. The dates. with new expiration products used by the restaurant chain. Worse still, chain. Worse the restaurant used by to stop? Those free-wheeling times have times have free-wheeling Those stop? to passed. Never again such innocence. For a For such innocence. again passed. Never further investigations by the Shanghai the Shanghai by further investigations far in advance/willing to drop a massive a massive drop to in advance/willing far reporter secretly captured unsanitary captured secretly reporter repackaged expired beef and chicken beef and chicken expired repackaged no small part to the company’s decision the company’s no small part to sought to quell public distrust. Did it work? quell public distrust. to sought Did it work? scandal led to over 2,000 branches across across 2,000 branches over scandal led to service), Ronald’s promise of 4am double promise service), Ronald’s specter is haunting Beijing – the taxi app. is haunting Beijing – the taxi specter waving an arm – frantically, for about 30 to about 30 to for an arm – frantically, waving McDonald’s appealing – even when drunk – after a drunk – after when appealing – even Municipal Food and Drug Administration and Drug Administration Municipal Food It’s been a bad year for America’s unofficial America’s for It’s been a bad year Remember the good old days (back in… the good old days Remember While the apps can certainly be useful on While the apps can certainly everyone in the process. everyone of meat products as the company hurriedly hurriedly as the company of meat products conditions inside a food processing plant processing conditions inside a food cheeseburgers no longer seems quite so no longer seems quite cheeseburgers of app-cabs straddle the divide – screwing – screwing the divide of app-cabs straddle on a whim (and/or after your battery has battery your (and/or after on a whim most all but ceased. Whereas died) have private- a distinction between cities make consulate. Despite being named in our being named in Despite consulate. occasion (read: having the foresight to book to the foresight having occasion (read: (FDA) revealed how the plant routinely the plant routinely how revealed (FDA) 2013 list of Model Workers (thanks in (thanks 2013 list of Model Workers 2013) when all it took to get a taxi was a taxi was get to all it took 2013) when Taxi Apps Taxi 40 minutes – until someone finally decided – until someone finally 40 minutes COVER STORY A Year inLookalikes LOOK FAMILIAR? 42 BY ERIK CROUCH A Liaoningstreet vendor hastheuncom Kong KimJong-un Liaoning andHong decked outintrueKimduds. Not to beoutdone, aHongKong imper - sonator hasalsobeenmakingtherounds, style withtheportly leaderoftheDPRK. fortable luckofsharingaface andhair- Kim Jong-un Liaoning Street Vendor - Ilham Anas Anas takes hisjobasanIndonesianObamaimpersonator seriously: when aChinesecom Ilham AnasandBarack Obama pany printed hisimageallover itsadvertisements withoutany compensation,hesued. The former NBA all-star turnedBeijingDucks center found his Stephon Marbury andLiangQichao long-lost Chinese brother intheform ofaQing dynasty scholar. Stephon Marbury Barack Obama Liang Qichao - COVER STORY

43 - BY ERIK CROUCH ERIK BY Too Bad to be True Bad to Too JOURNALISM but that he fed the body to starving dogs. starving to the body but that he fed lating that not only had Kim Jong-un ex lating that not only - organiza news the biggest international and the Daily Mail. A News Fox tions, like things that are outlandish yet true, but yet outlandish things that are one of them. This particular this wasn’t piece eventually found its way to some of to its way found piece eventually rumor was tracked down to a Chinese a to down tracked rumor was and patriotic North is that of a naive shaggy dog story indeed. shaggy dog story satirist going by the Weibo username the Weibo satirist going by as a totalitarian apologist). What began What began apologist). as a totalitarian and the control, out of spiraled as a joke ChoiSeungHo, whose Internet persona Internet ChoiSeungHo, whose Korean reporter (think Stephen Colbert (think Stephen reporter Korean ecuted his uncle General Jang Song-thaek, Jang his uncle General ecuted The DPRK is certainly the source of many of many the source The DPRK is certainly Dog’s Dinner - circu were reports the end of last year, At pulled the app and Youjia faced a hefty fine, but the tale is faced pulled the app and Youjia fabrication to publicize ‘hook-up app’ Youjia. Online stores Online stores Youjia. app’ publicize ‘hook-up to fabrication missed the news the next day that the entire thing was a thing was that the entire day the next missed the news still making the rounds. swapping sexual favors with millionaires throughout the throughout with millionaires favors sexual swapping In October, a story featuring a “post-1995” girl who was was who girl a “post-1995” featuring a story In October, country as part of an erotic pan-China road trip went viral viral trip went pan-China road country as part of an erotic it up, but media outlets picked online. A number of foreign Traveling from bed to bed bed to from Traveling however, the news is just too weird, too sensational to be true – not that that true – not to be too sensational weird, too the news is just however, stories that broke while the fact-checkers were asleep were stories while that the at fact-checkers the wheel. broke it stops some news agencies running with it. These are the biggest (non-) These are with it. it stops some news agencies running China can be a gold mine for off-beat, quirky news stories. Sometimes, news stories. Sometimes, quirky off-beat, for China can be a gold mine that the video – of which the sunrise is only a few seconds – was seconds – was a few the sunrise is only that the video – of which on the capital. shine some artificial sunlight to there is so clouded in smog”. The video on screen happened to be a to happened The video on screen is so clouded in smog”. CBS, Time stop That didn’t like. the sun looks people what remind starts televising the sunrise on giant TV screens because Beijing the sunrise on giant TV screens starts televising Shandong Province tourism advertisement, and was not there to to not there and was advertisement, tourism Shandong Province Smog-o-vision (among many, many others) from reporting reporting others) from many (among many, Post and Huffington Back in January, Facebook feeds lit up with the image above: a up with the image above: lit feeds Facebook Back in January, desolate, smoggy hell-hole of Beijing, with captions like “China smoggy hell-hole of Beijing, with captions like desolate, COVER STORY ASK A... 44 BY KAROLINEKAN/IMAGES BY NOEMICASSANELLI “People only survive when they follow theirreversible trend of the ...Shaobing Chef –Zhang Tong, 32

choices. our own people.People have theabilityto judgewhat isright and of oneday unblockingFacebook. Sothere isahope.Even ifit’s doesn’t leadto theeventual unblockingofFacebook, atthevery Mark Zuckerberg isthisyear’s hero. Even ifhis visitto China a smallone.More thanahundred years ago,SunYat-sen said:

what iswrong withoutbeingrestricted from makingtheirown world”. We shouldlearnfromandshow more that, confidencein news conference thatfollowed, officialsdidnotdeny thepossibility least, it’sasignofprogress.least, It’salsoasignofhope,becauseinthe

– Liang Wei, 29 Wei, Liang –

that next year. I really want to go to the Maldives! Maldives! the to go to want really I year. next that

big aim of traveling to the Maldives – hopefully I can do do can I hopefully – Maldives the to traveling of aim big

pregnant with our second child. But I didn’t achieve my my achieve didn’t I But child. second our with pregnant

lot and helped with my business, even when I became became I when even business, my with helped and lot This year’s hero is my husband. He supported me a a me supported He husband. my is hero year’s This ...Owner of a Beauty Salon Salon Beauty a of ...Owner ...Chef ina Xinjiang Restaurant –Ma Yinghu, 28 The biggestvillainsoftheyear? Definitely those day openarestaurant ofmy own. don’t damage my own chanceofsuccess.I’dlike to one

am alsoaMuslim.Iknow what areal Muslimshouldbe

number they are humiliatingeverybody from Xinjiang.I terrorists inXinjiang.Although they are very smallin

like andthese peopleare notreal Muslims.Ihopethey

– Mr. Li, 49 Li, Mr. –

have to sell hot potatoes. hot sell to have

provide my kids with a better education, so they won’t won’t they so education, better a with kids my provide

things go. I earn about RMB200 per day. I do it so I can can I so it do I day. per RMB200 about earn I go. things

the street selling hot potatoes. It’s okay, as far as these these as far as okay, It’s potatoes. hot selling street the

ago. Every day, seven days a week, I spend 10 hours in in hours 10 spend I week, a days seven day, Every ago.

need money for college. I started this job two months months two job this started I college. for money need

town in Henan. I was broke and I have two kids who who kids two have I and broke was I Henan. in town

Beijing. I can’t make any real money back in my home home my in back money real any make can’t I Beijing.

happened this year was my decision to finally move to to move finally to decision my was year this happened ...Sweet Potato Vendor Potato ...Sweet For me, at least, the most significant thing to have have to thing significant most the least, at me, For COVER STORY 45

...English Teacher The most important thing in China this year was the anti-corruption campaign. Some very high-ranking officials were arrested, which is good [laughs]. The effect on my life won’t be immediate, but in the long term, it will promote prosperity and stability within China. This year saw a lot of terrorism – I suppose some people would label that ‘villainous’. I live in Beijing, so I don’t feel too threatened. Besides, information related to these types of incidents is never one hundred percent transparent, no matter which country you live in, so I’d rather not judge too

much. – Wang, 25

is the most important thing in the world. world. the in thing important most the is

me. Only when you get old, do you understand why health health why understand you do old, get you when Only me. – Zhou, 65 Zhou, –

corrupt money to improve social welfare for people like like people for welfare social improve to money corrupt

and my legs are getting painful. Hopefully he can use the the use can he Hopefully painful. getting are legs my and

common people. I suffered a heart attack earlier this year year this earlier attack heart a suffered I people. common

the money confiscated from corrupt officials among us us among officials corrupt from confiscated money the

on corruption is very encouraging. We can redistribute redistribute can We encouraging. very is corruption on

I think Xi Jinping is my hero of the year. The crackdown crackdown The year. the of hero my is Jinping Xi think I

...Gold Fish Peddler Fish ...Gold

corruption. I hope the crackdown will continue next year. year. next continue will crackdown the hope I corruption.

– Guo, 47 Guo, –

parasites. I very much support the government’s crackdown on on crackdown government’s the support much very I parasites.

be called a hero. Villains are the corrupt officials, they are are they officials, corrupt the are Villains hero. a called be

year, because in my mind, only astronauts like Yang Liwei can can Liwei Yang like astronauts only mind, my in because year,

every confidence in the government. There was no hero this this hero no was There government. the in confidence every

must be a good thing, or why else would they do it? I have have I it? do they would else why or thing, good a be must

change our lives […] though I’m not sure how exactly. But it it But exactly. how sure not I’m though […] lives our change

Of course APEC is the most important thing this year, it will will it year, this thing important most the is APEC course Of ...Anti-Terrorism Volunteer ...Anti-Terrorism

...Hunan Restaurant Owner The most important thing to have happened this year is that Beijing is bidding for the Winter Olympics with Zhangjiakou. If Beijing succeeds, more people will visit the city and everything will be improved – especially the environment. No matter how long it will last, we will benefit from it. Just like we did with the blue skies during APEC. I hope it will boost my restaurant business too. – Wang, 54

Nothing different happened I thishave been year. working in Beijing for almost nine years, and I am always doing the same thing. Day Lifeafter is day. boring, but that’s how everyone lives, isn’t it? I don’t read, I don’t watch news, and I don’t have ...Construction Worker much time to think about unrealistic things. My goal is to earn thenmoney, spend it on new clothes, delicious food and maybe save for my family to build a new house. – Zhao, 27 COVER STORY 2014 ChinaArtsMatrix 46 BU HAO ond time,withnoexplanation. show atlastminute for asec- Pulls out of Beijing Mos Def:PullsoutofBeijing crackdown ononlineporn. Casualty ofgovernment Gay Mainland. from screens onthe Chinese filmbanned Cannes-winning A Touch ofSin: Sherlock Fan Fiction: come for you? na to dowhen thecops Jaycee Chan: bad boys. Whatyou gon- owners get cold owners getcold Organizers forced to pullthe feet. plug, after venue INTRO Festival: Bad boys, Chicken Cup: remain over itsauthenticity. lion at auction, though questions lion atauction,though questions loom fetches record RMB220mil-

‘licensing’ issues. Inexplicably shutdown dueto Independent FilmFestival:

Transformers: grossing film. reign asChina’s highest installment endsAvatar ’s

Banned: Banned: Big BangTheory SARFT outlaws streaming of the popular USseries. Ming Dynastyheir- by viewers. European castle drama” hensible medieval deemed “incompre- version airsonCCTV, Sex- andviolence-free Game ofThrones: Latest Latest awkward. Festival feeling at BeijingFilm leave everyone Pointed comments Oliver Stone: Nazis”. against “cultural cable Weibo rant goes oninexpli- Personal Tailor , box officewith Tops domestic Feng Xiaogang: HIGHBROW

lowBR

grossing films. Continent amongtop ten Han Han: FilmdebutThe OW English inthree decades. first to betranslated into Chinese sci-ficlassic Three Body Problem: Yugong Yishan: Beijingin- anniversary. stitution celebrates itstenth wins GoldenBear inBerlin. Black Coal, Thin Ice: Taylor Swift: Sellsout confirming thatit’sTaylor’s Mainland tour inminutes, world, we’re justliving init. The Simpsons: Ittook 20years finally made itto China. but Homer andthegang have The Syndicate: Drum‘n’ bassparty pioneers reach their 10year milestone. receives international acclaim. Barker’s time-bendingodeto Beijing The Incarnations: Northern noir Northern noir New York’s Central Park. including aUSdebutin over 20musicfestivals, Modern Sky: Hosted venue continues Concert Art:Indie School Bar Bar School ing show art. its commitmentto producing amaz Author Susan

- HAO COVER STORY 47 Sports Stocks Sports may be limited to five foreign foreign five to be limited may signings in their squads, but scorers in 2014. scorers CSL teams CSL footballers: Chinese among the league’s 20 highest only two Chinese players feature feature players Chinese two only The capital’s reputation reputation The capital’s two gold medals at the Asian two ungracious in victory, telling in victory, ungracious from within the Chinese from felt like speaking up for the speaking up for like felt rivals South Korea in the final South Korea rivals meddled with the stadium’s Despite taking Despite Yang: Sun reporters: “Beating Japan “Beating reporters: sounds terrible.” Japanese national anthem Chinese men’s badminton: badminton: men’s Chinese air conditioning. Games, the star swimmer isGames, the star swimmer Chinese people. Honestly, the people. Honestly, Chinese of the Asian Games leads to accusations conspiratorial camp that their opponents The national team’s defeat to defeat The national team’s bid with Zhangjiakou) and bid with Zhangjiakou) leaving only Beijing (in a joint only leaving the 2022 Winter Olympics, Olympics, the 2022 Winter Norwegian capital Oslo: Norwegian drops out of the race to host to out of the race drops Almaty to duke it out. duke Almaty to being on the receiving end being on the receiving Under-16 FC: Fangshan the ignominious honor ofthe ignominious honor football club chalks up club chalks football a 47-0 loss against rivals rivals a 47-0 loss against Haidian FC . FC Haidian of a city-wide goal record: record: goal of a city-wide blighted by smog. by blighted Beijing: suffers a blow as a series of as a series a blow suffers including the sporting events, Argentina vs studded Brazil as a global sports destination as a global and a star- annual marathon exhibition football match, are are match, football exhibition DOWN UP

Beijing Rises to an auspi- Rises to Peng Shuai: Becomes the Peng tennis, topping the doubles topping tennis, reach world number 1 in world reach in February. rankings first Chinese national to national first Chinese the medal count in the Asian Finish atop athletes: Chinese games, again (having come top (having again games, every year since 1982). since year every Formula E Racing: Electric- Formula host the 2028 summer Olympics. host the 2028 summer two-match winning streak. two-match team: team: powered racing series makes series makes racing powered its international debut in debut its international - The city’s pro Shanghai: global China’s national football national China’s file may be about to soar, with soar, be about to file may Grassi taking the win. Grassi Beijing, with Brazilian Lucas Di Beijing, with Brazilian World Ranking, after a rare a rare after Ranking, World cious 88th in the FIFA cious 88th in the FIFA officials mulling over a bid to officials mulling over World World Cannavaro: Fabio as manager contract lucrative has a stage musical Stephon Marbury: Stephon a second CBA a second CBA Cup-winning Italian signs Italian Cup-winning Guangzhou Evergrande. Leads Beijing toLeads Beijing of China’s leading football club leading football of China’s created in his honor. created championship and former favorites Manchester favorites former nationwide survey. nationwide most popular club, usurping United, according to a recent a recent to according United, League team become China’s become China’s League team English Premier Premier English Arsenal: Damjanović: Dejan four months into the season months into four fifth-highest scorer. fifth-highest Guo’an’s prolific striker joins striker prolific Guo’an’s yet still manages to net 14 still manages to yet goals and finish as the CSL’s goals and finish as the CSL’s grapevine

nibbles off the beaten plate

We’re rounding off a great A small restaurant in Dongsi year for food and drink in the named Hot Bean is doing a brisk capital with our 2014 Golden trade in patriotic mashed potato. Fork Awards on December 12 The Diaoyu Islands Belong at Spark. The awards honor to China is the name given to Beijing’s top restaurants in the dish, which is (vaguely) categories such as best brunch, Diaoyu-shaped and comes with best fine dining and best pub a sovereignty-asserting flag. food. Sure, it seems like there’s We found the contentious an award for every place in rocks, laced with sweetcorn and town with these events – but black pepper, to be pleasantly we can’t help the fact that creamy and chunky. Regular Beijing has so many good ‘late- diner Xi Xuebin, is reported night hutong milkshake bars to saying: “Every time I eat here, take a date to.’ The ceremony I order it.” He added that he will be Star Wars themed, always leaves the portion of because why the hell not. potato around the flag uneaten, The biggest restaurant “so it won’t fall off the island”. closure of the last month was > 11am-10pm, 63 dongsi Jiutiao, Nali Patio’s Parnas. They dongcheng 东城区东四九条63号 (8401 said a Russian-owned, French 0276) haute cuisine restaurant-cum- rooftop club wouldn’t work – and it didn’t. Oh well, we still Head-to-Head / have Migas next door. It’s also Tanghulu farewell to cocktail terrace stalwart Q Bar (Is PM2.5 to Hawthorn & Glutinous Rice blame?) A couple of fine dining offshoots opened last month: seafood and grill at new nightclub 8MM, and new CBD hotel The Rosewood debuts French Bistro B. Cherry Tomato & Tangerine Sake Manzo owner Taka Yamamoto is launching a New Year’s Saké Festival in Beijing Style through Jan/Feb. More on that next issue. He also alerted us to Traditional. Skewered Chinese hawthorn berry Alternative. Whole tangerines (juzi) and cherry new sushi restaurant, (shanzha), stuffed with some glutinous rice tomatoes (shengnüguo) prove that there’s little in J Sushi, in Dongsi, which some (nuomi), then coated in hardened syrup. China that can’t be skewered and eaten. claim might establish links with legendary sushi chef Sukiyabashi Jiro. Together with Taste APEC handshakes (and in spite Hard to discern much of the flavor of the fruit or Tomato and sugar – not a combo we’re too of the mashed potato, above rice through the intense sweetness of the syrup. comfortable with, but zingier than the hawthorn. right), a good month for Sino- Your dentist would not approve. Probably doesn't count as one of your five-a-day. Japanese relations. WP When to Eat Like the falling of dead leaves and early morning When you need to recapture that long-lost frost, you know winter has arrived when tanghulu childhood exuberance you felt for festive seasons carts start appearing. So eat them now. of old.

Verdict Like much in China, excessive amounts of sugarcoating can turn the mundane into the marvelous. It’s chunjie/Christmas time and we love both these snacks – everyone’s a winner. WP

48 | October 2014 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected]

bartisans NEW OPENINGS This month: Jim and Paul from Rager Pies Ocean Grounds. Has this city’s cutesy cupcake craze finally met its match? Rager Pies, a baked- to-order pie shop whose logo features a vaguely satanic-looking horned bull, is to the Beijing cake world what Metallica is to popular music. Heavy, have mass- appeal beyond their core fan base and guaranteed to rock hard. Now, if like us you crave a real homemade pie and find the whole business of cup cakes rather too saccharine, then Rager may be just what you’ve been waiting for. Currently available in four wholesome flavors, Pecandrogynous (RMB140/ per pie), NTko Banana/Coconut Cream Pie (RMB120/per pie) Chunky Punkin’ (RMB120/per pie) Applecolypse (RMB120/per pie) and the savory Empie儿 pie (RMB140/per pie). > rager pies operate out of small

hutong kitchen in beixinqiao. pies n o emi cassanelli o by t

are available to pick up directly (look ph o out for the sanatic emblem) or via a delivery service (186 1405 5548; www. The Bar. New to Sanlitun (Ocean Grounds was ragerpies.com) previously located in U-Town Mall), this coffee shop adapts to its nightlife loving surrounds by transforming into a cocktail lounge at 7pm, like some kind of artisanal beverage-producing werewolf. The Daytime Drink. New Orleans Coffee (RMB50, above left). A frozen ball of coffee and chicory with a squirt of raw agave nectar on top is slowly melted down by pouring over some frothy milk, spiced with nutmeg and cinammon. The coffee infuses with the milk as it melts, which will take about 20-30 minutes in total. The complexity of this concoction – rich, challenging and one to savor – makes your morning filter coffee seem as refined as a slap in the face. And like the finest cocktails it’s made by someone who clearly has a passion for their craft. The Barista. Founder Jim Lee, promises a “holistic” coffee experience for drinkers in Beijing. He knows the value of sourcing and roasting the right beans at the right season (currently Costa Rican). “We felt the need for specialty coffee in China,” he tells us. “Ocean Grounds is all about an artisan approach to making coffee.” by n o emi cassanelli o by t The Nighttime Drink. American Meets China, ph o (RMB80, above right). Oolong tea-infused bourbon, dark rum, pimento dram, prucia, sugar and fresh Miss Muesli lime juice. The initial sourness gives way to a slight Tired of eating that mass-produced, cardboard-like, only-about-five-raisins- bitterness from the oolong, which is cold infused to in-the-whole-pack excuse for a muesli they sell in the supermarket? Then retain its presence in the bourbon. Sipped from a small handmade, fresh and healthy Miss Muesli is the breakfast choice for you. Made bowl. with a mix of locally sourced and imported nuts, fruits and grains, they promise The Barman. While there can be no arguing with a higher fruit-to-base ratio than off-the-shelf alternatives and they’ll deliver it Jim’s measured philosophy on coffee, the Hemmingway straight to your door. The best part is they even offer fully customizable mixes so quotation on the drinks list suggests the motives behind you can pick exactly which ingredients you want (buckwheat, rye, blueberries, the addition of a cocktail bar are simpler: “Drinking is goji berries, longan, rose, etc) and leave out what you don’t – sugar, additives a way of ending the day.” But the bar is no afterthought. and other nasties, presumably. Order by phone, online, on WeChat or in person Taiwan-native barman, Paul Hsu, is the Hyde to Jim’s at their experimental cereal-mixing lab near Beixinqiao, where you might even Jekyll and (according to Jim at least) quite simply the get to try a free sample. Premixes are around RMB35 for 400g and RMB58 for best in town. “My philosophy is to make it simple, but 750g, while that sweet granola is around RMB45/70 for 400/750g. (Delivery: just make it good,” he tells us. WP RMB10, free for orders over RMB149.) > mon-fri 7am-1am, sat/sun 8am-2am, (nr. Xingfucun Zhong lu) > tue-fri 3-8pm, sat-sun 11am-6pm; 42 Xiguan hutong, dongcheng 东城区细管胡同42号 (188 1-05, bldg. 1, hai long plaza, 13 gongti bei lu, chaoyang 0116 8480; www.missmueslibeijing.com) 朝阳区工人体育场北路13号院1号楼1层1-05 海隆广城 (5743 9548)

www.thatsmags.com | December 2014 | 49 eat & drink | restaurants open page副标题底线 C Pearl Sea Shells from the C? Sure

by Will Philipps

“Shanghai opened 14 oyster restaurants in the last year. Beijing did not” s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t ph o

Before eating at C Pearl we were undecided and Shanghai. It’s located on a strip near you’d better let the staff advise you. We on oysters. Beijing, we feel, is a city of Sanyuanli Market and inside it’s fabulous: are recommended Canadian Fanny Bay boisterous dining, defined by spicy red meat urbane and warm with as many cozy niches (RMB58/297/578 for 1/6/12 oysters) and oily carbs sold off rickety three-wheeled as there are convivial rooms. Its grand – slightly sweet, succulent and briny – transportation. Oysters, on the other hand, signage makes it stand out like a lighthouse and the South African Cape Rock Gigas are the quintessential epicurean delight – amongst the neighboring drabness. A (RMB48/259/479), with which a squeeze a benchmark in high-priced food fetishism. telltale sign you’re at a restaurant that takes of lemon brings out the rich, creamy Shanghai (or so we’re assured by C Pearl’s itself seriously? The lighting is so dim you flavor, consuming the mouth before being owners) opened 14 new oyster restaurants can only just see what you’re eating. (And swallowed. Also on the menu are shells in the last year. Beijing did not. since oysters resemble something between from France, USA, New Zealand, Korea, This restaurant, however, is aiming to a snotty discharge and a mermaid’s ladybits, Ireland and Australia. Pair them with a convince us otherwise. Maybe a tendency that’s not such a bad thing.) fruity Sauvignon Blanc or a Vedett. for unpretentious food has clouded our The dimness helps you focus your Shanghai, trend chasers that they are, judgment recently, because at C Pearl we’re other senses, though, which should get may have opened over a dozen oyster reminded that oysters are invigorating, on well with the buttery seafood chowder houses recently, but right now Beijing only interesting and fun to eat. Plus they go (RMB59), our only criticism of which is its needs one. extremely well with both beer and wine. meager size. Salivation continues with the Extravagant, certainly, but any food you can beef carpaccio (RMB87) and some calamari Price RMB300-plus per person. drizzle with Tabasco or whisky (you can) (RMB89), made with a creamy and thick Who’s Going City slickers, gourmands and and slurp down without cutlery is hardly Vedett beer batter, which also covers the marooned sailors. what Michelin has in mind when it gives out fish and chips (RMB188). The herby, cheesy Good For Seafood feast, not just oysters. stars. fries are the best we’ve tasted in Beijing – The restaurant is the first in Beijing for which is lucky as they cost RMB69 alone. tue-sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, bldg. 14, shunyuanli, the manager, a Toronto native with award- But the oysters take center stage, and Xinyuan Jie, yanshaqiao, chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 winning sister ventures in his hometown with about 18 varieties to choose from 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

50 | DecemBer 2014 | www.thatsmags.com restaurantsfeature | eat & drink Dianke dianlai Best Kept Secret by Qiao Zhi

It has been a long time since we first visited Dianke Dianlai. During our last visit, Galaxy Soho – the gargantuan space-age behemoth that now shadows it – had yet to break ground. In actual fact, the entire neighborhood looked markedly different. Fortunately, little has changed at Dianke Dianlai itself. Long considered one of Beijing’s better kept culinary secrets, the small Yunnannese restaurant continues to intrigue, thanks in no small part, to its charming traditional courtyard setting. Owner Zhang Bensheng is hoping to replicate that ambiance at his soon-to-open second branch. With that in mind, we thought we should pay the s by n o emi cassanelli o s by original location a return visit, and get a sneak preview of some of t Zhang’s new dishes. ph o Much of Dianke Dianlai’s success has been based around its set menu concept (RMB128 to RMB298). Each day, dishes are prepared fresh, based on quality seasonal ingredients – many of which are 零贰玖 farmed organically in Yunnan. The idea has served the restaurant well, resulting in a constantly updated and often innovative selection of Yunnannese specialties. During our visit, we try a range of new dishes, such as the chicken soup – a thick, nourishing broth, served Ling Er Jiu with a puff pastry topping; the fragrant but deceptively spicy small mushroom parcel; as well as the classic Dai-style bamboo grilled fish Oodles of Noodles and suantangxia (sour shrimp). Zhang plans to make his new restaurant entirely organic – with by Karoline Kan all the ingredients sourced from Yunnan. Much of what’s available at Dianke Dianlai already conforms to these standards, and better yet, Amongst China’s four major cuisines (Lu, Su, Yue and Chuan), it can be enjoyed in a laid-back sunlit courtyard. the noodles of the country’s spacious northwest do not feature. Lacking the gold-plated elegance of its more prominent cousins, the practical cuisine from these vast, boundless plains is masculine and Price RMB128-298 set menus. Who’s Going Businessmen, tourists, those in the know. unconstrained, made for wandering merchants on the old Silk Road Good For Impressing friends and a taste of summer. to help withstand harsh conditions. For a taste, head to Ling Er Jiu on Xingfucun Zhonglu – itself something of a modern day Silk Road inhabited with foreign traders, daily, lunch: 11am-1.30pm, dinner: 5.30-9.30pm, afternoon tea: 2-4pm; 8 da fangjia bridging the gap from east to west (or Gulou to Sanlitun, at least). hutong, chaoyangmen nei, chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门内大方家胡同8号 (6512 0930) Its intimate interior has a tidier, cleaner style than its down-at- heel neighbors: tableware is made from pretty blue and white pottery, while cushions are livened up with decorative red and green patterns. We order three of the small restaurant’s most popular dishes heshi bizhi youfa chemian, (贺氏秘制油泼扯面, RMB25), Qishan s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t saozi ganbanmian (岐山臊子干拌面, RMB25) and Qishan saozimian ph o (岐山臊子面, RMB22). Of the nine key elements to a good noodle dish – thin, chewy and smooth body; rich, watery and fresh soup; and sour, spicy and appetizing flavor – Ling Er Jiu’s meet most criteria. Our maître d’ (or rather the old ayi that stands by the cash register barking out orders) tells us all the noodles are made with wheat from Shaanxi and Shanxi to ensure authenticity. Added bonus – it’s open late and the roujiamo (肉夹馍, RMB10) little pork burgers make a great snack for hungry foreign merchants on this busy little trading (and drinking) route.

Price Bowl of noodles RMB20-25. Who’s Going The last remaining natives who live in the Xingfucun area. Good For Sinus-cleasing spice, greasy late night snack.

daily 11am-4am; Xingfucun Zhong lu, chaoyang 朝阳区幸福中路 (5745 4029)

www.thatsmags.com | December 2014 | 51 eat & drink | interview

open page副标题底线

PANDA BREWPUB Black, White and Brew

by Will Philipps You might think that a Chinese craft brewer, given the craft beer pioneers, maybe. But the most distinguishing relative infancy of the trend in this land, would be feature, as that name would suggest, is its nationality. relatively new to the pleasures of drinking. Not Panda “Of course, we’re completely Chinese,” says Pan. “All Brew’s owner. “I started drinking beer when I was seven!” my team is local and we are catering to Chinese tastes. We’re not sure if Pan Dinghao is joking or not, but when It’s influenced by beers I used to drink in Montreal, lots he took those first baby sips you can be sure that double of German and Belgian styles, but we’re aiming at the IPAs and vanilla stouts were nowhere to be seen in China. Chinese market. Chinese palates aren’t so used to intense And he only realized this when he moved to Canada many bitterness, so we wanted to make an easy-drink beer. years later. They’re pleasant and mild, with a lower IBU [bitterness “In the bars there you had endless lists of different rating] than most American beers. We don’t want to scare beers, yet the only Chinese one was right at the end: people off.” Tsingtao. So I wanted to produce something to represent It’s a more subtle approach to forging an identity China abroad other than Tsingtao.” That was several years than going for brews with unusual Chinese ingredients. ago, around the time a friend in Canada taught Pan how “We need to get the foundation right before we go for to homebrew. In 2014 the result is Panda Brew (motto: wacky beers… educate people on how to taste ale. Then keep calm and carry on drinking), which has just opened a we can play around with other ingredients. We hope to colossal new brewpub off Beijing’s hub of gluttony, Gui Jie. have one local Chinese ingredient in all beers, though, like Pan tells us that their bottled beer (look for the distinctive the Hunan honey we sourced for our Pure Red Honey Ale panda eyes label) can be bought in 30 different Chinese (RMB38).” cities and has reached as far as Tibet and Xinjiang. World Indeed the beer list is modest compared to many domination is the next step. around town, but it contains all the key players for any Despite the branding’s obvious nod to China’s favorite self-respecting brewpub (Pale Ale RMB38, Stout RMB45, emblem, it’s hard to know how to place Panda amongst and an award-winning Wheat RMB35). “Our first pub the many emerging brewers in the city. The bar goes for was tiny,” says Pan. “Just room for five or six people and the industrial, garage vibe, but it’s ended up with a kind of a 50-liter capacity. Now we have this huge taproom… we clean, metallic coffee shop interior, one replete with gaudy believe it’s going to be a success.” manga-style murals. Pan and his team are courteous and self-effacing. Panda drinkers aren’t weekend warriors, we daily 11am-late; 14 dongsi bei dajie, dongcheng 东城区东四北大街14号 feel – more joystick warriors. Comic book readers turned (6408 7922)

52 | DecemBer 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | eat & drink

“I wanted to produce something to represent China abroad other than Tsingtao”

Price Most beers RMB35-45. Who’s Going Craft beer debutantes and Yanjing reformists. Good For Drinking honest ales without the wackiness.

Advertising Hotline s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t 010 - 8447 7073 ph o

www.thatsmags.com | December 2014 | 53 eat & drink | restaurants

实成吉烧饼 open page副标题底线 “Everything is hand-made and kept simple. The best food is never, ever Shichengji over complicated” shaobing Soul Food

by Stephen George

By the time you read this, the blue skies of APEC will have returned to their normal shade of monochrome gray. Your bike may have been stolen (again), your boss is probably being a dick and the city-wide heating is either not on or so intensely hot that you’ve had to open the windows. When did this become your life exactly? Surely it’s time you visited your family? Can you even remember the last time you embraced your mother? We won’t tell you to ‘suck it up’, but we will point you in the direction of Zhang Zhen’s Shichengji Shaobing. If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these bing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. We first met Zhang at the Slow Boat Craft Beer Festival in October this year, where he was selling a more gourmet version of his regular fare. We’ve since become regular visitors to his small hole-in-the-wall eatery on Dongsi Liutiao. Deceptively simple, Zhang’s bing are a popular local draw, attracting a long, steady line of customers. The reason, according to Zhang, is the ingredients. Nothing else gets close. “I buy the sesame from Hubei, because of the unique flavor. And the flour we use is the most expensive found in the Beijing market,” he tells us proudly. “I also believe the oven is an important element in creating good and authentic shaobing. You know, in the past, we used real fire to roast our shaobing, but now government restrictions mean we can’t use coal or other fuel to light the fire. So I invented my own oven! I ran a number of experiments before finally finding the right temperature, time and humidity – it’s now even better than before!” Each of Zhang’s shaobing has the exact same weight (100g, with 5g of sesame) and comes served either plain, or packed full with tender slices of Hebei beef. “I believe the very best food presents its original flavor – the flavor of the ingredients,” says the 25-year-old, who took over the family shaobing business from his father several years ago. “Everything is hand-made and kept simple. The best food is never, ever over complicated.” We couldn’t agree more.

Price RMB5 for a shaobing with beef. Who’s Going Laobeijing and jaded foreigners in need of a pick-me-up. Good For Hutong snack on the go. s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t

ph o daily 7am-7pm; 43 dongsi liutiao, dongcheng 东城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

54 | DecemBer 2014 | www.thatsmags.com restaurants | eat & drink 鼎鼎香 Christmas Hotpot Dinner Paradise In the Garden of Eatin‘ Guide Our Pick of the by Karoline Kan Best ‘Turkeys’ in Town

Agua Daniel is cooking up a four-course meal Iberian-style Christmas dinner for with sauteed porcini mushroom, purple winter sun-seeker types. The Pica potato, mango and spicy berries, for a Pica welcome platter includes Alaska candlelit evening of “warmth, wine and smoked salmon and duck liver and wonderful food”, RMB398. a glass of cava for RMB128, a four- > Dec 24; 5208 6030 for enquiries course dinner with half a Boston lobster and roasted suckling pig is Niajo RMB488 or both for RMB588. Spanish-style Christmas dinner decides > Dec 24 & 25; 5208 6188 for enquiries (regrettably in our minds) to forgo the roasted spuds and brussel sprouts. Chapter at The Conrad Beijing Instead, for RMB389, we’ve got white A blow-out Christmas feast for meat anchovies on homemade toast, seared lovers. Chapter’s has traditional foie gras, Niajo beef consomme, and roast turkey, venison or slow-roasted Boston lobster, plus 30% off cava. goose, plus all the trimmings. At > Dec 24 dinner, Dec 25 lunch; 5208 6052 RMB1,288 (+15 percent service) for enquiries luckily drinkable ‘trimmings’ include free-flow soft drinks, beer, wine and Opera Bombana champagne. Two options to go for from the Michelin- > Dec 24 & 25; 6584 6270 for enquiries starred chef’s Italian restaurant. Brunch s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t (RMB588, add free-flow prosecco for ph o Flamme RMB128) includes a choice of mains like Flamme’s US-inspired dinner reminds Going by the humble English moniker ‘Hotpot Paradise’, Ding braised beef cheek and French sea bass, us that Thanksgiving dinner is worth but the main event is the degustation Ding Xiang has, since 1998, been dispelling stereotypes of hotpot rebranding a month later. Includes menu, RMB1,088 (RMB500 for wine restaurants as noisy, crowded and likely to leave your hair smelling turkey gumbo soup, a choice of pairing): seven course of Italian fine of Gui Jie gutter oil. When owner Huang Xin first launched the chain boneless beef finger ribs and steak or dining heaven. All prices + 10 percent she resolved to keep the format easy and cheap while, at the same seared scallop and grilled salmon, and service) time, making the experience feel high-end, fashionable and a little bit Christmas cherry black forest wood > Dinner Dec 24, Brunch Dec 25; 5690 7177 block. RMB399 incl. bubbly mojito. for enquiries different. > Dec 24; 6417 8608 for enquiries With a new branch open in Sanlitun’s Taikoo Li, she’s obviously Peekaboo doing something right. The restaurant’s latest installment is a Kempinski The name might be childish – but spacious affair; elegant interior design and furnishings, with The Germans know Christmas the menu is anything but: Christmas warm service to boot. It’s the sort of spot you might find groups of markets – and you can bet they partridge pate, slow-roasted turkey celebrities trying to prove that they’re just like the rest of us. know Christmas Dinners. Kranzler’s with purple potatoes puree, slow- Christmas Eve buffet has roast goose, baked lobster with pasta and fricasseed Still one of the chain’s kitchens’ most important innovators, turkey and a choir performance brussel sprouts and Christmas nut owner Ms Huang is passionate about food and each new addition RMB798 (+15 percent service). pudding with rum raisin ice cream to to the menu must, we understand, gain her discerning approval. Paulaner’s Holy Christmas set menu finish. Seafood RMB588; Continental The freshness of ingredients is clearly high on the priority list, as has a festive spread and free-flow RMB688 demonstrated with the assorted vegetable platter (RMB55), a hearty booze for RMB999 (+15 percent > Dec 24; 6506 9600 for enquiries balance of leaves and shoots. Careful attention has been paid to the service under 12 kids half price). > Dec 24; 6410 4200 for enquiries size and thickness of the vegetables to ensure optimal cooking time. The Westin Beijing Financial Street We finish in style: The Westin Beijing And unlike other similarly-priced restaurants where the hotpot La Pizza Buffet Financial Street’s Ice Age Christmas base is oily, overbearing and kept for days, the soup here is fresh and The masterchefs at La Pizza Buffet are Eve Extravaganza, because, as they ask edible. Once you’ve finished slurping on it, be sure to grab a shaobing preparing seafood salad, spaghetti us, “can there be a more glamorous (RMB4 and made to the formidable Ms Huang’s own recipe) which is with clams, fried squid and shrimp, time than December?” Sense and baccalà (salted cod), as well as generously sized and full of sesame flavor, inside and out. Prego are transformed into a bumper panettone and spumante for a very Christmas buffet, with all the traditional reasonable and typically Italian ingredients plus a “sinful array of Price RMB150-200 per person. Christmas dinner for RMB298. (What, desserts and sweets” (no presents for Who’s Going Colleagues after work and young couples. no turkey pizza?) you then). RMB1,688 (includes glass of Good For Not as raucous as your average hotpot. > Dec 25; 5136 5990, 151 0156 8183 for Veuve Cliquot champagne, free-flow red enquiries and white wine, beer and soft drinks, RMB844 for 3-12 year olds.) daily 10am-10pm; s6-32/33, third floor, taikoo li south, 19 sanlitun lu, chaoyang Mosto > 6.30-10.30pm Dec 24; 6629 7777 for On Christmosto Eve (geddit?) chef 朝阳三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层s6-32/33号 (6417 2546,6417 9289) enquiries

www.thatsmags.com | December 2014 | 55 eat & drink | BARS

photos by noemi cassanelli

At some point about halfway through floor is actually a rather pleasant space. the last decade, hipsters became so There’s some abstract monochrome art, disillusioned with middle-class guilt that a line of comfortable gray sofas and some it became fashionable to pretend to be intriguing metal grating. In fact, we would drinking in a steel mill. Exposed bricks and go so far as to say that it’s rather well done. visible piping? That sounds like the sort of It’s just not very original. environment where the common man might And while furnaces (of the blast carry out his daily labor. Light bulbs hanging variety) were a key technological driver without proper lampshades to protect us of the Industrial Revolution, this isn’t a from the filaments’ glare? How thoroughly particularly pleasant time to get nostalgic proletarian. about. Life was brutal and short. Living “With enough cocktails this The tired scourge of ‘industrial conditions were abysmal and alcoholism could easily be a smelting chic’ rolls on to Gulou Dong Dajie with was rife – though there is little chance of the opening of Furnace, a two-floor bar relapse with the Mojito or Cosmopolitan plant. Squint your eyes featuring all of the aforementioned tropes. (RMB45). Neither is particularly well made and these elegant candles With enough cocktails (and generous and both lack alcohol content. The Cosmo helpings of suspended disbelief) this could could easily pass for a juice. become pits of molten slag” easily be a smelting plant. Squint your eyes There are some successes on the menu, and these elegant candles become pits notably the Manhattan (RMB45) and The of molten slag. Get lost in conversation Jasmine (gin, lemon, Campari and Cointreau, about reliable sources of organic poutine RMB40). The latter’s combination of dry, and suddenly Fatman Scoop’s crude barks sweet and sour provides the perfect way to FURNACE resemble the bellowed commands of the relax after a long day of using extreme heat factory foreman. It’s quite remarkable. to reduce iron ore. The food we try is decent Industrial Downstairs proves a little more ‘chic’ enough, though expensive for what it is – at and a little less ‘industrial’. FashionTV plays RMB68 one would expect the flavorsome Counter-revolution silently above a bronze-colored bar, its bacon cheeseburger to be bigger and the carousel of vacuous beauty providing either portion of fries more generous. welcome or galling distraction, depending But then this isn’t a foundry canteen, by Oscar Holland on the quality of your company. (There’s this is a relatively hip bar for those wishing also a line of ‘Keep Calm and …’ posters, just to escape cramming into one of the nearby

Price Food RMB30-plus; drinksWW in case there was any question of envelopes hutong alternatives. You’re middle class RMB30-45. being pushed.) But climbing the stairs we and you enjoy consuming colorful cocktails. Who’s Going Disillusioned middle class are immediately confronted with some faux- Deal with it. proletarians. industrial contraption; its dial measures Good For Pre-gig drink without hutong 东城区鼓楼东大 cramming. nothing and its pipes lead nowhere. 98-2 gulou dong dajie, dongcheng The spacious, concrete-framed upper 街98-2号

56 | DecemBer 2014 | www.thatsmags.com home cooking » EAT/DRINK feature | eat & drink

Pairing Stella artois with... Pairing Stella artoiS with… FlaMMe Beer, Meet Steak

any of us here Stella takes the edge off to just at That’s Beijing the right degree. have been drink- Next up is Flamme’s signa- ing Stella Artois ture nachos (RMB68), served forM over a decade, so we like to with Bolognese ragu, kalamata think that we know a thing or olives, jalapeños, melted cheese two about the stuff. But when and homemade guacamole. it comes to pairing it with food, Their moreish and a touch salty, we decided to ask the experts. leaving us a little parched while We tasked the good at folk at giving Stella’s light hoppiness Sanlitun’s Flamme with design- and hint of malt space to play on ing a menu to complement the tongue. the characteristic taste of the Belgian pilsner. with a touch of dryness, so a First we are presented particularlyThe beer’s succulent finish is steak crisp, is with the buffalo chicken wings exactly what’s called for. This is (RMB58). They are generously precisely what Flamme is known coated in tangy hot sauce which, for. But which cut to choose? We in addition to celery and a blue are presented with the Angus cheese dip, makes for a bold set bone-in rib eye (RMB458 for 750g, feeds two) which, thanks to too overpowering and our cold the marbling of juicy fat, compli- of flavors. Thankfully, it’s not ments our chosen beer nicely. The medium-cooked steak is lightly peppered already so, once dipped in the ir- resistible ac- companying peppercorn sauce, leaves

with our host’sus satisfied wise pairing skills.

14 November 2014 / www.thatsmags.com www.thatsmags.com | December 2014 | 57 community | tiger father THE YEAR OF THE TIGER (FATHER) by Trevor Marshallsea

When I was a proper journalist at members of the family got them, a wire service supplying news to anyway. Australian papers, this was the time June: This is a tricky one to ex- of year we’d have to write (or, in plain. To save money, to really really trade language, “churn out”) articles just, you know, tighten the belts, we called Year-Enders. only took a holiday to Greece and These were carefully considered, Turkey this summer. I tried telling wonderfully prosaic, literary mas- a friend in Sydney this, and he hung terpieces we would all try very hard up. But come on! Flights were cheap to Istanbul via Urumqi! And hadn’t holes in”) the nation’s papers during Greece lost, like, its economy? Ah, thewith, quiet and news which days would of the grace Christmas (or “fill they’ve found it again. It was ex- period. I recently found this one of pensive as hell. Still, it was a tour of mine, which began thus: ancient sites and museums we knew It’s been another big year in would be great for the kids. Main (INSERT TOPIC HERE). lesson learned: don’t take kids to ancient sites and museums - it bores could have – nay, should have – adjusted “Main lesson learned: don’t them rigid. the templateWith the benefitmore. But of hindsight,life is full ofI second July: Phases of the amazing journey of chances, especially in journalism – that take kids to ancient sites parenthood. I watched the World Cup with wonderfully rewarding vocation where the girls, who kick a ball a bit on weekends you can be wrong all the time and still get and museums: it bores (sometimes with enthusiasm). Meanwhile, paid. Good thing I didn’t choose a career them rigid” a friend’s 10-year-old boy played in a youth tournament in Sweden. A large German the family section of this year-ending edi- about a month solid. Bundesliga club then invited the lad for a tion,in mathematics. here’s my second Or flying chance. planes. Now, for February: Another birthday! Evie’s oc- try-out next year. My friend said only that It’s been another big year in OUR FAM- curs on Valentine’s Day. This sounds cool he “might” go. I punched my friend in the ILY. but it’s actually catastrophic. Imagine all head. Most importantly, after a long and the cheapskate males she’ll attract, who August: Only a week after she was eventful 10 years since my wife and I got want to kill two romantic dinners with born, Lani turned nine. I wept at the together and started a family, Leicester one payment (when she’s of dating age in City were promoted to the English Premier a few decades’ time.) Chinese New Year slumber party. I saw up close what a gaggle League! At last! was around this time also, which was good oframpant girls on charge a sugar-high of time. sleepover Lani had isher like. first Now… what else… ? Oh yeah – the kids! because a little red envelope of cold hard All has changed, changed utterly. Our beloved daughters, Lani and Evie, cash was an ample gift for both occasions! September: After weeks of trying to turned nine and seven and, as many an We went for a second time to Harbin, for work from home with two kids on holi- overwrought Facebook post (about no great reason other than that it is there, other kids) might say, amazed and we are expats. in uncontrolled delight. us all with their sheer awe- March: Qingming. For locals, rever- days,October: school finallyWe go toresumed. a Halloween I wept event. again, someness, and grew and ential grave sweeping. For expats? More I take the kids into the “haunted house,” learned as people. Specif- excess. We took a beach holiday in Asia, which we all thought would be lame, but ically, they learned a lot two months after our Christmas one, for which was exceptionally well done. Which about the promotion- no other reason than school was out for a is to say the kids absolutely melted down and-relegation system week. The Gods of Frugality punished us in horror. Maybe they’re not growing up so in football. Now, to when my wife suffered a holiday injury fast after all. other highlights… – tripping over a suitcase while packing, November-December: Hard to say, January: Two spraining her ankle and ruining her holi- because of printing deadlines in early No- birthdays, to both day. And ours. A weird month. vember, but most likely more of the same, parents, in which I April: A great month! The coats, gloves, only colder. Probably another vulgar beach actually got a present. hats, scarves and other things that are holiday in there somewhere. Lesson learned: Dads slow to put on, all went away! It actually – if you missed out yet wasn’t that bad a winter in Beijing. Still, Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in again at Christmas on anyone who actually opposes global warm- Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. the grounds that “that ing has never raised kids in a cold climate. This time around he stays at home to grow the old bloke doesn’t need/ May: Not much happened. But what kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at expect/in any way deserve goes around comes around, and in this www.thetigerfather.com a present,” grumble about it for case it was head lice. Well, the more hairy

58 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | community Red 1 International Karting The Search for the Future Chinese F1 Champion Starts Here

by Qiao Zhi

“Where is the Chinese F1 Champion?” So art indoor track (great for beginners, such there’s anything to really worry about, the reads the giant advertising billboard that as the That’s team) it also has an enormous greets entrants to the newly constructed 1.31km winding outdoor track, where are able to control the speed of the karts Red 1 International Karting track in racers can pick up speeds over 100km/h fromequipment a remote is all operating EU-certified room and and the keep staff Maquanying, Chaoyang. One suspects, on the straights. a vigilant eye on the racers throughout, however, that for the people behind the Watching some of the more should they need to intervene in an enormous and impressive facility – the experienced in-house racers speed around emergency. question is somewhat rhetorical. The the outdoor track is a hypnotic experience But what about the racing? Well for answer, of course, is right there on the and far more thrilling, in some respects, RMB95 (member price) you get 7 minutes Red1Karting track (if not now, then some than watching professional F1 racing from – which sounds like a short time, but in time soon). the grandstand. actual fact, feels like much, much longer. You see, go-karting – for those who For those who may never have karted If, like us, your only experience of karting might not know – has been the preferred before, the excitement generated can be comes from hours wasted playing Mario entry level for just about every great strangely addictive, as many of our team – Kart as a kid, you’re in for a surprise. Real all novices going into this – quickly found karting is an intense experience, that began. The careers of racing legends from out. requires total focus – both mentally and AyrtonFormula Senna 1 champion to current since champ the sport Lewis first After watching the outdoor racers, we physically. Simply put, after seven minutes Hamilton all started out on the ultra com- were led through the complex’s smart- on the track, your body feels drained. In petitive international go-karting circuit looking fully equipped bar and lounge area many ways, it’s a lot like a heavy work out – where, as children, would-be racers are (plush modern interiors and industrial able to slowly nurture their skills, before leaves your arms and legs shaking. progressing gradually up the racing divi- where we were given our helmets and the endorphinsSo, will we come are flying again? and Absolutely. the intensity The sions. briefedstyle fixtures) on what to to the expect: indoor the pit single area, most But with China having scant access to important thing to remember? “Don’t go an immediate second, with a third now go-karting facilities, the hunt for a native- too hard around the corners… and the red imminent.rivalry generated If you’re by thinking our first of race a day required out – born Chinese Formula One champion has be it with family, friends, adults or kids – so far drawn a blank – that is until the The guys working at the Red1Karting we really couldn’t recommend this place construction of Red1Karting. areflag extremely means stop!” knowledgeable and enough. It’s got every angle covered, and Modeled on traditional British-style enthusiastic, and more than able to assist it’s far more fun than your usual Beijing go-karting tracks (the UK is considered by newbies and pros alike. Better still, most of driving experience – sat motionless, in a many within the industry to be the world the team speak excellent English, meaning leader in go-karting), Red1Karting boasts that non-Chinese speakers can get in on some seriously impressive equipment. This the action too. 1pm-1amtraffic jam 88 Laiguangying on the Second East R oroad, Third Chaoyang Ring. 来广 is not your average weekend playground. The karts themselves are small and 营东路88号 (64306688, 13801370737; www.red1karting. Not only does it have a large state-of-the- offer little outward protection. Not that com)

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 59 Urban Family’s Winter Party was held on Saturday November 15 at Qiaobo Ice and Snow World where families were given special-offer ski and snowboard sessions to get in the mood for the approaching ski season. It was a great time for parents and children to get out of the smog while keeping the weekend feeling outdoorsy. Those not partaking in the snow-based activities could take advantage of all that the party’s apres-ski had to offer. Without leaving the warm indoors, the fair offered activities such as face painting and arts and crafts for the kids, and mulled wine and gift shopping for the parents.

60 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | community

Beijing Ski Top Tips Locations for Skiing

Indoor Skiing 1. Safety is best. Kids should always wear a helmet. Qiaobo Ice and Snow World Located in Shunyi District, Beijing’s only indoor snow dome boasts two snow-covered trails: 2. Stretch. Warm up your muscles before a 150m nursery slope and a 260m run for the more experienced. Off the slopes there is a hitting the slopes. Stretching off will help viewing room and event space, plus several shops stocking winter wear and ski and snowboard prevent cramps. equipment. Qiaobo is a 15-minute taxi ride north of Shunyi subway station. 3. Clothes. Wrap up warm but try not to Outdoor resorts put on too many clothes. Parents, it may be All resorts are within reach of Beijing and most offer accommodation at the resort if you wish to tempting to use clothes as protection for spend a little more time on the slopes than in the car. Prices range from as low as RMB70 per hour to your child but this will make it hard to move RMB200 per hour for ski rental. The longer you ski the cheaper each hour becomes. and over-sweating can dehydrate.

Yunfoshan 4. Goggles. A good pair of goggles are Yunfoshan, or Cloud Buddha Mountain, is 85km north of the city center. Great for kids, with a ski better than sunglasses. They not only keep school, two beginner trails, a sledding trail and a snow playground. No.987 bus goes all the way the snow out of your eyes, but make it easier from Dongzhimen. to see the contours of the pistes.

Nanshan 5. Take it slow. Even if you think you can Nanshan Ski Village is one of the largest resorts in Beijing located 80km north east of the city head out straight away, take at least one center in Miyun County. As well as its 21 trails, the resort offers snowmobile rides, a German- lesson from an instructor just to get some made toboggan run and a chalet-style pub. A Norwegian cabin-style hotel lies nearby. Shuttle good habits started. It can be better for kids buses depart at 8.30am from Sanyuanqiao and Wudaokou. to learn from someone outside the family too. It avoids temper tantrums. Badaling Just 2km west of the famous Great Wall scenic spot of the same name, Badaling, one of the 6. Conveyor belts and button lifts. smaller resorts, maintains two beginner trails, one intermediate and one advanced, with a Always keep your skis pointing forwards, Rossignol ski school attached. A decent hotel is close to the resort center with free WiFi. even when looking behind you.

Lianhuashan 7. Balance. When you start skiing, don’t Close to Beijing, these slopes are located in Shunyi District, 30km east of the airport on the side lean backwards but not too far forwards of Lianhua Hill. Targeted at day trippers, the rates are affordable but the resort still has a decent either. Try to keep your weight in the center of the skis. This will give you more control. numberYuyang of pistes, including five beginner trails. An express bus, no.918, goes from Dongzhimen. 8. Falling. Don’t be afraid of falling down. Sat on the slopes of Qinglong Mountain in Pinggu district, 70km east of the city center, Everybody does it, even the professionals. the location draws families from both Beijing and Tianjin. There are three beginner, two 9. Getting up. If your skis have come intermediate and one advanced trail plus a snowpark for boarders to practice aerial maneuvers. off after a fall, make sure to place them Xueshijie horizontal to the direction of the slope when Literally meaning Snow World, Xueshijie is in Changping District near the Ming Tombs. It reattaching. Otherwise you might shoot off offers three beginner, one intermediate and one advanced trail, as well as one-to-one ski and downhill before you’re ready. snowboard teaching for kids and beginners.

is a new online Beijing- 帕森医疗 focused website edited by the That’s PASSION MEDICAL Mags team. The site aims to circulate articles and promotions that add value to family lifestyle in Beijing. This includes information on education, extra-curricular activities and other 阿 issues affecting parents and children, as well as events and special offers relevant to family life in the capital.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 61 STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS

Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] and we’ll run the best.

“Stella artoiS World draught MaSterS after party” @ The Flamme-Oct.22 Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy. STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS Events com. For some details, see Listings. Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] Mon-WED DEC 1-3 ARTS > RMB80 (includes one drink), RMB60 and we’ll run the best. (presale); 9pm; Jianghu Bar (see Listings ART for details) Stage: Bizet’s Opera Carmen This last work of Georges Bizet is one COMMUNITY of the most popular operas around the Talk: The India Ride – Book Talk with world. It tells the tragic story of the Ryan Pyle optimistic, straightforward but wild Colin and Ryan make their way through Gypsy girl Carmen, with vivid dramatic the stunning landscapes of India and “Stella artoiS World draught MaSterS after party” melodies. learn what it takes to succeed as a team > RMB100-880; 7.30-10.20pm; Opera as they circumnavigate a billion people, @ The Flamme-Oct.22 House, National Center for the pushing themselves to new limits, and Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, share in an adventure of which most of Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 us will only dream. > RMB50, RMB40 (members); 7.30pm; Tue DEC 2 & 16 The Bookworm (see Listings for details). COMMUNITY fri DEC 5 Workshop: Writing on Walls Join a workshop with people who pride ALL MONTH NIGHTLIFE themselves in nurturing writers and who Party: NB Noise 1 Year Anniversary believe every writer deserves a safe envi- Join the crowd at Beijing’s one and only ronment in which to experiment, learn, Film: European Union Online underground music venue for a night and develop their skills. of NB Noise insanity. With Aida, Azat, > Free; 6.30pm; The Bookworm (see Donald Summer, Jackson Lee, Ludo V, Listings for details) Film Festival Marco Qu, Mike Hotten, Patrick Yu, The European Union Film Festival in China has made 20 top films from 15 EU Weng Weng, and of course NB Noise member states available to stream online and in high def, spanning feature-length residents Danny & El-mar. WEd DEC 3 recent releases, shorts, documentaries and animation. With the dominance of > RMB50 (free before 11pm); 10pm; NIGHTLIFE Hollywood blockbusters in Beijing movie theaters (did we really want another Lantern (see Listings for details) Transformers?) it’s a great opportunity to catch the kind of highly acclaimed film- Music: Liron Man Handpan Live Gig: OCTOPUSS LIVE With no teachers specializing in this making that rarely makes it to these shores. Includes Oscar-nominated dramas Bullhead and Death of a Shadow (both Belgium), Lisa Limone and Maroc Orange Italian band Octopuss is landing in China unique, new musical instrument, Liron after their successful tour in Europe and (Estonia), BAFTA-nominated sci-fi romance Orbit Ever After (UK), as well as 88, developed his own style and technique. America. Music is influenced by Red Hot the directorial debut from Spanish actor Jordi Mollà. With the Online British Film Come see for yourself why, over the Chili Peppers, The Beatles and American years, he has influenced many young Festival still ongoing, the next few months look good for home entertainment (and guitar master Jimi Hendrix. Rock, with an artists around the world. bad for our local DVD store’s business). intense mix of funk. > RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale, end- > See the full schedule and watch films online at www.euoff.org until Feb 2, 2015 > RMB50, Mako Livehouse, 36 Guangqu ing midnight on December 2nd); 9pm; Lu, (inside Hongdian Art Factory), Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区广渠路36号 (www. mako001.com/ 5205 1112) Gig: CMA Jazz Big Band Life & Style One of the best university bands from the Beijing Contemporary Music fri-sun DEC 5-7 Academy, CMA Jazz perform some of their most treasured pieces. NIGHTLIFE > Free; 8.30-11.30pm; Jianghu Bar (see Music: The Waverleys present Listings for details) “Caledonia” The Waverleys have long set themselves Gig: The Nightcrawlers apart from Irish and Scottish folk bands The Nightcrawlers present a night of by being one of mixed nationalities. authentic Chicago blues. Drummer Tom Martin, Jonathan and Markus pioneer Wilson, Guitarist WeiWei, Bassist Wang new frontiers in this coming tour which Zheng, and Harmonicist Claudio get to- will see the band’s first steps into Asia. gether to make some smoky sounds. > RMB150 (for adults), RMB80 (students > Free, 8pm, Salud Nlgx (see listings for and children); 8pm (DEC 5), 7pm (DEC 6), details) 5pm (DEC 7); La Plantation Art Base 1, D Area, Hegezuhang Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang 朝阳区壹号地艺 wed-thu DEC 3-4 a pair of 术园D区, 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村(www. RMB200 haircutting waverleys.com, www.laplantation.cn) ART vouchers. To win, Concert: Prokofiev Festival-Mariinsky email bjeditor@ Theatre Orchestra with Valery Gergiev urbanatomy.com sat DEC 6 Principal Conductor of the London ‘hair' Symphony Orchestra Valery Gergiev and ALL MONTH NIGHTLIFE one of the oldest musical institutions in Party: 8-Bit First Anniversary Russia, The Orchestra of the Mariinsky, Christmas Hair Care Gifts from It’s been a fantastic year for 8-Bit, the give the audiences in Beijing a review of retro gaming-themed bar in Gulou. At classical music. this one year anniversary party, Noise > RMB100-880; 7.30-9.30pm; Concert Laurent Falcon Coiffure Studio Arcade will give a live performance while Hall, National Center for the Performing Whether you’re heading abroad for Christmas or sticking around in Beijing, there contestants play a specialized game Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区 are plenty of reasons to get your hair done this month. Because, frankly, no-one’s cartridge designed specifically for this 西长安街2号 going to find you under the mistletoe at your office Christmas party or engage in event. The player with the highest score at the end of the night will win a very an awkward New Year’s Eve kiss if your head resembles a shaggy dog. To celebrate special prize. thu DEC 4 the festive season, Laurent Falcon will be offering a free mystery gift package of > RMB10 (Kirin pints), RMB15 (shots); luxury hair care products to all customers at his Sanlitun and Guomao salons dur- 8-Bit (see Listings for details) NIGHTLIFE ing the month of December. The exact contents remain a secret, but we are reliably Gig: Flamenco Dance with Handpan informed that the more you spend the better the prize. No better time for that Party: Four years of Transit ft. Faze Live Performance wash/blow-dry/color/cut/perm you were planning then. Action Ana Sevilla dances the flamenco to songs > 209 2nd floor, Zone 3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall, Chaoyang 朝 To celebrate four years for this fine by Álvaro Trugeda and guitarist Alberto 阳区国贸商城区域3二楼 209 (5900 0676, 153 1311 1519); 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan, Sichuan restaurant, they’re bringing UK Cuéllar, accompanied by Liron Man on Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971) fusion house trio, Faze Action, to sister the handpan. establishment Cicada

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 63 events

> RMB200 (RMB150 presale); Cicada T-shirts for those homemade presents Ultralounge (see Listings for details) nightlife money can’t buy. > Free; 2-5.30pm; Atelier, Room 202, Gig: Gypsy Night Block C, Jinxiuyuan, Xingfucun Zhong A night of special Gypsy cocktails, swing Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路锦绣园 dance and Gypsy jazz performed by C座202 band Hot Club of Beijing, a nod to 1930s Hot Club of France, founded by Django ART Reinhardt and Stephane Grappelli. Music: Ivo Pogorelich Piano Recital > Free, 8pm, Salud NLGX (see Listings Come and hear some of Serbian pianist for details) Ivo Pogorelich’s classics, with a reper- toire ranging from Baroque to Romantic COMMUNITY to 20th century works. Stage: Beijing Improv Long-Form > RMB80-580; 7.30pm; Concert Hall, Performance National Center for the Performing Arts, Script-less, long-form is a popular type of 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长 improv that takes audience suggestions 安街2号 and turns them into extended scenes with unexpected results. Guaranteed laughs and a good time. tue DEC 9 > RMB75, RMB65 (members); 7.30pm; COMMUNITY The Bookworm (see Listings for details) Community: Green Drinks Join Beijing’s green community for in- Sport: Air + Style Championships formal drinks at their monthly meet and A host of big-hitters from the world of greet. For those interested in environ- snowboarding go head-to-head in this mental, social and development issues epic winter championship supporting in China. Beijing’s bid for the Winter Olympics. > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Don’t miss performances by UK singer Listings for details) Kate Nash and local bands Rustic and Po Shang Cun. > RMB80-RMB380; 3pm-8pm; National Stadium (Bird’s Nest), 18 Beichen Donglu wed-sun DEC 10-14 Olympic Park, Chaoyang 鸟巢体育场朝阳 COMMUNITY 区北辰东路18号 Music: The Sound of Music China Tour The 1959 classic Rogers and Hammerstein, Broadway musical The sat-sun DEC 6-7 Sound of Music is coming to Beijing. ART Expect all the old favorites from the stage and screen. Ballet: The Little Mermaid > RMB280-RMB1500; 2-9.30pm; Beijing For the bicentenary of the birth of the Exhibition Theater, 135 Xizhimenwai poet Hans Christian Andersen, see a Dajie, Xicheng (Tickets are available at modern interpretation of The Little http://en.damai.cn/event/tickets_72567/, Mermaid, the dramatic love story set booking hotline 400 610 3721, email above and below sea level. [email protected]) > RMB100-580; 7.30pm; Opera House, National Centre for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 wed DEC 10 COMMUNITY Fair: Harrow Beijing Winter Fayre sun DEC 7 Get into the holiday spirit at the annual NIGHTLIFE Harrow Beijing Winter Fayre. Eat, shop, sip, and shop some more at the festive Gig: Wei’s Comeback Concert SAT DEC 13 bazaar. Chinese pioneer rock band Wei reunites We have a pair of > Free; 3-4.30pm; Harrow International after a 12 year absence, coming back to tickets to give School Beijing, 287 Hegezhuang, the limelight in Gulou. Gig: New Noise Fifth away. To win, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang 朝阳区 > RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale); email bjeditor@ 崔各庄何各庄287号 8.30pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings urbanatomy.com for details). Anniversary Tour ‘post' thu DEC 11 Gig: The Fallacy’s New Album Release Sichuan-based post-rock promoter and record label, New Noise, will be celebrat- Tour ing its five-year anniversary with a three-city tour of China, snaking north from its COMMUNITY The Fallacy, a band inﬂuenced by post- opening night in Chengdu, and stopping over in Shanghai to warm up for the big- Music: Basically Beethoven punk, noise rock and no wave, are on bang finish at Yugong Yishan in Beijing on December 13. The Bookworm hosts Beijing’s only clas- their first national tour after re-signing The line-up includes bands considered among the finest in the post-rock sical music open-mic night. Get involved to label Modern Sky in 2013. They return scene at the moment. Playing a ‘best of’ set, heading up the list are international or simply bask in the glory of some of with more powerful than ever before, Beijing’s best international classical rocking even harder. Guest bands: experimental rockers pg.lost, who first came to China from Sweden with New Noise for their packed-out 2010 tour and have been regular visitors ever since. musicians. Snapline / Mr. Graceless. > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Expect emotional crescendos and crashing drums galore. > RMB80 (door), RMB60 (presale, end- Listings for details) ing midnight on December 6th); 9pm; Next on the list, domestic post-rock gods and long-time collaborators with Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) New Noise, Wang Wen from Dalian will take the stage, playing a mix of classics from their fifteen years on the scene, as well as new tracks from their eighth fri DEC 12 COMMUNITY album, Eight Horses, released earlier this year. This will be a great chance to see them perform on the same night as pg.lost, having released a split LP together in NIGHTLIFE Music: Family Concert 2012. A special edition of Wang Wen’s album, IV, will also be released at the show. DJ: Thris Tian Don’t miss this exciting family per- For support, well-known Beijingers, Glow Curve, take the local band slot for One of the original architects of the formance by the Wisemann Brass Boiler Room, which has grown to Ensemble, featuring Chinese and this leg of the tour. Their sounds will be sure to attract fans with their solid reputation for live performance. become one of the electronic music Western professional classical musi- world’s most popular underground ’ To celebrate the anniversary, the show will also include a photo exhibition by cians who work with China s premier shows, Thris Tian has built a reputation Beijing photographer, Muto, who has documented the past five years of New Noise orchestras. as a passionate and exciting DJ with a > RMB80, RMB200 (2 adults & 1 child); tours, gigs and events. demonstrated natural talent as a music 5pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for Tickets include entry plus a t-shirt and poster goody bag. But if you want to selector. details) make your friends even more jealous, there will be an on-site store selling limited > RMB50 (free before 11pm); 10pm; The edition merchandise such as vinyls, shirts and posters. A perfect place to get your Bar at Migas (see Listings for details) Family: Christmas Factory Christmas shopping done. A day for children to celebrate Christmas If you like post-rock and you want to see some of the best bands around, this Gig: Nova Heart Album Release with arts and crafts activities at Atelier. is a night you do not want to miss. Dark synth-pop outfit Nova Heart, whose While parents sample mulled wine and > RMB260 (pre-sale RMB160); Dec 13, 9pm; Yugong Yishan (visit http:// seductive music has won them praise biscuits, kids can make Christmas deco- newnoise.taobao.com for tickets) from the likes of Rolling Stone and NME, rations, greeting cards and customized celebrate the release of their debut, self-

64 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com events

titled album, with support from WHAI Gig: Hedgehog Special Show and The Big Wave. Nightlife Join Beijing indie rockers Hedgehog at > RMB100, RMB80; 9pm; Yugong Yishan School for their special night of guitar (see Listings for details) riffs and snappy drums. > RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale); 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for sat DEC 13 details)

NIGHTLIFE Party: Lantern KOLLECTION Party: New Noise Fifth Anniversary The best local underground DJs present Post-rock label New Noise will end their a special KOLLECTION. You can expect to tour of China with well-loved bands hear eight different music styles includ- Wangwen, Pg.Lost, and Glow Curve, plus ing funk and techno. there will be a photo exhibition by Muto > RMB30 (free before 11pm); 10pm; and many more surprises. Lantern (see Listings for details) > RMB260, RMB160 (presale); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) DJ: Psyfidelity Listen to mind-bending beats and ap- Gig: Guilin Punk Rock Band Banana preciate the inter-dimensional decor Peel China Tour with DJ Rigel Made, Nomi, Acid Echoes, Banana Peel’s kind of punk music tries and Gasse. to reflects the present times in China. In > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for this tour, they promise to offer a diverse details) style: melodic and restless music, with elements of ska, reggae, hardcore and Music: Mushroom Festival 2014 blues. We have a pair of Mushroom Festival, organized by the > RMB50; 9pm; School Bar (see Listings Kode9 tickets to owner of Rockland Records and 69 for details) give away. To win, Cafe, returns with a solid indie line-up, fri DEC 12 email bjeditor@ featuring White+, Birdstriking, Gate Gig: The Loop urbanatomy.com to Otherside, V-Day, Spin Axis and Eddie Lv brings his party to The Bar at ‘kode’ Luvplastik. Migas; expect great tunes, good peo- DJ: Kode9 and DJ Spinn > RMB80 (door), RMB60 (presale); 8.30- ple and a nice vibe….not to mention a Kode9 seems to be developing something of a fondness for China, having named 11.30pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings smokeless dance floor. The selection is a recent track ‘Xingfu Lu’ (ostensibly after the Shanghai street of the same). And for details) mainly house music played mostly off as he returns to Beijing for the second time this year, it is perhaps only a matter of vinyl with Eddie Lv and Elvis T. on the time before the Glaswegian drops the Gongren Tiyuchang Beilu LP. decks and Kris on live percussion. Until then, the capital can make do with what will undoubtedly be another sat DEC 20 > RMB50 (free before 11pm); 10pm; The high-energy set at Dada to celebrate Sub-Culture’s 7th anniversary. If recent shows, Bar at Migas (see Listings for details) NIGHTLIFE or last year’s Rinse 22 mix, are anything to go by, expect back-to-back genre- Party: PENG Label Christmas Party skipping stonkers. Electronic music label PENG is coming ART But then one would expect no less from the man behind Hyperdub, the ec- back for a unique Christmas party with Concert: An Ode to Life lectic record label that has brought us some of the UK’s bass pioneers, including Pancake Lee and friends on the decks World renowned conductor Antoni Wit Burial, The Bug, Martyn and Zomby. Joining him is another artist from Hyperdub’s and give-aways for everybody. leads the journey through Strauss’s back catalog, Chicago’s DJ Spinn. > RMB60; 10pm; The Bar at Migas (see Alpine Symphony with China’s NCPA Still not pumped? Try sticking on Helix’s glitchy remix of ‘Xingfu Lu’ before Listings for details) Orchestra. heading to Gulou to get yourself in the mood. > RMB80-580; 7.30-9.30pm; Concert Hall, > RMB80 (door); Dada (see Listings for details) National Center for the Performing Arts, wed DEC 24 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 community NIGHTLIFE Party: School X-Mas Party AV Okubo, Casino Demon, and Dr. Liu sun DEC 14 & The Human Centipede. The music of these positive and energetic Chinese COMMUNITY bands promises to bring you a sense of Tour: The History of China in Fifty “social responsibility” and “right values”. Objects > RMB100 (door); 9.30pm; School Bar Newman Tours leads a tour that explores (see Listings for details) the human history of China through 50 of the most celebrated art objects in the Gig: Christmas Eve with the Uyghur National Museum of China. Jam Band > RMB90 (for adults), RMB50 (for kids); A night of various specialty minority 2pm (138 1777 0229, info@newman- musics: Spanish flamenco and Cuban tours.com, www.newmantours.com) rhythm, plus Arabic, Gypsy, Indian and Turkish music. The tunes jump from the traditional to the free and spontaneous. wed DEC 17 > Free; 8pm; Salud NLGX (see Listings NIGHTLIFE for details) Gig: Orange Mescaline The band explores a wide range of styles thu DEC 25 from old school jungle, dub, and glitch beats to minimal, deep and tech house, NIGHTLIFE and anything in between. Party: The Rock Xmas Pillow Fight > Free, 8pm, Salud Nlgx (see Listings for The pillow, the weapon of choice for details) making friends while getting out your ALL MONTH aggression. Music, pillows, gifts and an Xmas grand prize are on offer at this thu DEC 18 Crafts: Tanghulu Christmas Tree party. Guest bands include Los Crasher COMMUNITY and Gear of War. What is Christmas without a Christmas tree? Luckily, this holiday season there’s > RMB130 (door), RMB100 (presale); Music: Miss Lulu Galore & Friends an interactive project open to families to build one. Every weekend throughout 8.30-11.30pm; MAO Livehouse, (see The founder and front wom- December, kids can come to INDIGO mall to help decorate an art installation that Listings for details) “ ” an of Miss Lulu Galore and Sweet Leaf , gives a Chinese spin on the traditional Christmas pine. With materials like wooden Lulu Galore performs her “exquisite- sticks, pompoms and other arts and crafts provisions, children are invited to make ly sensual burlesque dance” and “amaz- fri DEC 26 ing breath-taking singing”, combining a replicas of tanghulu candied fruit sticks, the snacks seen at stalls and shopfronts all traditional jazz style with her own “twist- over Beijing. The idea is to blend Chinese traditional food with western festive aes- NIGHTLIFE ed flavor”. thetic and give kids the chance to be involved in some cross-cultural art this winter. Gig: P.K.14 BJ&SH Classic Vinyl Release > Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings UCCA Creative Studio, an art education program for kids aged 2 to 11, is running Party for details) the project. Held in a central space in the mall, the arts and crafts stand is free and The new wave and post-punk influenced there is no need to book in advance. band P.K. 14 will play all the songs from > Free; every Saturday and Sunday in December; 11am-4pm; Basement level 1 of their two classic albums Who and Who fri DEC 19 INDIGO Mall, Jiuxianqiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地下一层 call and The White Paper. NIGHTLIFE 5780 0202/03 for more info) > RMB100 (door), RMB150 (LP), RMB260 (Double LP), RMB80 (presale) RMB200,

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 65 events

RMB300; 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see >Free; 9pm; Dada Beijing (see Listings Listings for details; www.modernsky. eat & Drink for details) com) Quiz: The Bookworm Quiz Night Quiz Nights return to The Bookworm to sat DEC 27 offer you the chance to show you’re the smartest in the room. Dominate your ART peers over six rounds of intellectual and Performance: Mantovani Orchestra pop culture knowledge to win drinks New Year´s Concert and respect. Get in early to make sure Founded in 1935, Mantovani specialize you get a seat. in light music that makes a bridge be- > Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings tween classical and popular music. for details) > RMB180-880; 7.30pm; Concert Hall, National Center for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长 EVERY TUESDAY 安街2号 NIGHTLIFE Gig: Hot Club of Beijing wed DEC 31 The Bar at Migas brings one of Beijing’s finest bands on to the stage - The Hot NIGHTLIFE Club. Channeling the spirit of Django Party: D.O.G presents New Years Party Reinhardt, Benny Goodman and Duke To embrace the coming new year, Beijing Ellington they’ll bring their raucous music label D.O.G presents bands Secret brand of swing and gypsy jazz to get Club, Hear Mark, The Diders, The Big your hips swaying and your feet aching. Wave, and others for a feast of indie > Free; 9.30pm; The Bar at Migas (see rock. Listings for details) > Free; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for details) Comedy: Comedy Club China Open Mic Night Party: Migas’ New Year’s Eve Bash Comedy on draft at Jing-A Brewing The whole Migas space is transformed Taproom. A night of nonstop laughter. into two separate rooms for this year’s ALL MONTH > Free; 9-11pm; Jing-A Brewing Taproom, big night, featuring the best local tal- 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, ents on the decks. Choose between the Five Things With The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北 warmth of the Dim Sum Disco room with 路4号院 house, disco, and techno, and The Vice and JW Marriott Hotel Beijing’s Newly Soundsystem room with tropical bass, DJ: Ellen and Mr Dragon electro, cumbia, and 80s funk. Ellen and Mr Dragon take the stage at > RMB160 (door), RMB120 (presale); Appointed Executive Chef, Kevin B. Thomson Parlor every Tuesday with great jazz 9pm; The Bar at Migas (see Listings for guitar and singing. While the duo per- details) With over 25 years of experience in the food and beverage industry, British chef form, football games will be shown on Kevin B. Thomson has arrived in Beijing to helm a culinary team of more than 200 the screen. ART chefs, planning and overseeing the operations of both The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing > Free; 9pm; Parlor, Xingfuercun, 39-9 and JW Marriott Hotel Beijing dining outlets and banquets. We caught up with Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路 Music: Beijing New Year’s Concert him to talk gulity pleasures, cooking for royality and get his take on what its like to 39-9幸福二村 The list of big club nights not to your liking? Never fear. The 19th Beijing manage hot-headed chefs. New Year’s Concert invites the world- EVERY WED renowned Russian National Orchestra You lead a team of over 200 chefs – how much of your job is manage- to celebrate the New Year with a line of ment and how much is actual ‘chef work’? EAT/DRINK classics. Well, I would still say I still am doing chef work but, yes – managing is a huge Eat: Hamburger Hump Day > RMB180-RMB2680; 7.30-9.30pm; Great part of my position... but I still cook! If I want a dish a certain way I will cook it, if Sometimes all you need is a juicy slab of Hall of the People, Western side of there is something new, then I will cook it – and set the standard. When I first got meat and a beer to get you through your Tiananmen Square, Dongcheng 人民大会 into the industry it was for a love of food and cooking. Of course I miss the adrena- mid-week fatigue. Every Wednesday be- 堂天安门西侧 lin rush of a busy service. But I wouldn’t say that management distracts me from tween 5pm and 7pm, buy a burger and the joy of cooking, I still jump in and get involved. The way I see it, management get a beer for only RMB20 as a reward teaches you different skills, which brings a different level of knowledge to your for your hardwork. EVERY SUNDAY chosen career, which I believe makes it all the more fulfilling. > 5pm-7pm; Slow Boat Brewery Taproom, NIGHTLIFE 56 Dongsibatiao, Off Dongsi Bei Dajie, Ultimate comfort food (guilty pleasure)? Dongcheng District 东城区东四八条56号 Gig: Beatles Night Chinese tribute band The Beatloves, I love pork cooked anyway, anyhow, and of course I’ve eaten caviar, lobster, formed by five die-hard Beatles lovers, oysters, beef from Japan, Iberico pork, and all the rest, but my ultimate comfort ALL MONTH perform all your favorite and familiar food would be my mother’s steak and kidney pudding, made with a suet pastry. hits. My mouth is watering just thinking about it! I also love pickled cockles which bring COMMUNITY > Free; 2pm-late; VA Bar (Vanguard), 56 back so many memories. Travel: Ctrip ‘Are You Going to be a Gri Dongsibatiao, 13 Wudaoying Hutong, nch?’ Christmas Lottery Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同13号东四 Favorite place to have worked and why? Pretty devious marketing promo this 八条56号 I would have to say it’s a close call between Melbourne, Australia and one: Ctrip international is offering free Bangkok, Thailand. The produce available is fantastic in both countries, the people, gifts (worth up to USD14,000 and includ- COMMUNITY the cultures, the general living, but my wife is Thai so that has to swing it! ing hotel stays, ﬂights and travel credit) with every ﬂight booked through them Tour: The Beijing Warlord British food is often (in our opinion, unfairly) maligned. Are you a champion, until December 31st. If you don’t pass Step back in time to Beijing’s chaotic or critic of British tastes? the gift on to a friend you’ll need to Warlord Era with a foreign soldier of I believe the reputation of British food is judged very unfairly, we have great send five friends an e-postcard explain- fortune who isn’t afraid to tell you about products available from John O’Groats to Land’s End, with passionate chefs high- ing your Scrooge-like behavior to keep it the strange habits of the eccentric lead- lighting what we have to offer; the farmers who continue to breed rare beautiful (‘tis the season of good will, after all). ers he has worked under. beasts for our table; and we’re surrounded by a sea, that offers a bounty of pro- > Visit pages.english.ctrip.com/event/ > RMB190 (for adults), RMB120 (for duce – lobsters and salmon from Scotland to name a few. London is a melting pot christmas-2014/index.html for more kids under 14); 7pm-9pm (138 1777 of culinary ideas, traditional foods, and further afield fantastic clotted cream from information 0229, [email protected], www. newmantours.com) the West Country heaped on your warm scones! EAT/DRINK Who’s the most interesting or famous person you’ve ever cooked for? Where do I start? I have been very fortunate to have cooked for Sean Connery, Eat: Bubbly Month at Transit EVERY MONDAY A glass of sparkling wine for all diners Michael Caine, HRH Queen Elizabeth II and the Royal Family while at Dukes Hotel COMMUNITY at Transit throughout Decemeber, to cel- in London. Sheiks, royalty, movie stars, sports persons, but in turn, when I was in ebrate festive period. Film: Johnny Depp Month Davos at the world economic forum, I cooked for Bill Clinton plus 1,500 other VIPs. > Transit (see Listings for details) The theme of this month’s Monday But perhaps I was most nervous when cooking for Monsieur Paul Bocuse when he Screening is Johnny Depp. Cry Baby, visited Australia, he’s an absolute icon in the culinary world. Benny & Joon, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, Edward Scissorhands, Don > 83A Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区华贸中心建国路甲83号 Juan DeMarco will be screened in that (5908 8888) order. Booze aplenty at the bar and free popcorn.

66 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com CITY SCENES

Smiles belie bitter rivalries at the starting line of GTC Residence’s ‘Hutong Tour of Old Beijing’ high-speed rickshaw drag race. Not a hangover in sight as The St. Regis Tianjin celebrates the 80th anniversary of the Bloody Mary cocktail.

Suspicious man almost spots the That’s Beijing hidden camera at InterNations’ draconian new standing-in-height-order-for-photos guidelines are fol- Agua’s sixth birthday party. lowed by terrified attendees at Face Bar.

Inquisitive female visitors crowd around ‘man with beard’ waxwork at Great Leap Golfing pair putt on a brave face as prize money threatens to drive a Brewing’s Beijing Invitational Craft Beer Festival. wedge between them at Bencham’s First Annual Golf Tournament.

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 67 Happy hours Meal deals Weekly Specials Brunch Food and Drink Ladies' nights

The Full English Brunch The English Breakfast. Symbol of a nation. More than just a dish – it’s the meal that symbolizes stoic British grit, fuel for an industrial revolution, backbone of winning war efforts, a meal – based around the simple union of eggs and bacon – that in its many forms transcends class and pretension. Or something like that… For the real deal, head to Nyonya Kitchen in Taiyanggong (Subway Line 10), where an amateur British chef has devised the ultimate British brunch menu. Try the traditional full English breakfast, which includes baked beans, we’re happy to see (RMB54, RMB7 extra for black pudding), the veggie option (RMB48) or even classic eggy bread with bacon (RMB18). It’s not just breakfast varieties. They also have fish and chips (RMB68), traditional Scottish haggis (RMB82), oxtail soup (RMB42) – best enjoyed with a steaming cup of tea (with milk, naturally) like PG Tips or Yorkshire Tea (both RMB15/23, cup/pot). > Sat/Sun 11am-2.30pm, Nyonya Kitchen, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, 4th Floor Unit 10-11, Taiyanggong Subway Station, Exit C Chaoyang 朝阳区太阳宫地铁站C出口凯德MALL 太阳宫 4层10/11号 (150 1035 0681 English and Chinese; reservations: [email protected])

MONDAY to FRIDAY

Monday Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as Free drinks for girls, 9pm-12am. 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) you want. > Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Mai Bar > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500 Buy two cocktails, get one free. Agua Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰 3377) > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ 作大厦1层 (6416 1715) 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) person for three courses. Xian > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- tuesday to Friday Whiskey night, discounts on special Monday to Thursday 2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun selected whiskeys. Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 S.T.A.Y Restaurant > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, XIU 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Three courses including coffee and tea Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, for RMB388/person with 15 percent 9810) 6-9pm. Greyhound Café service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 thursday 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108) > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727) details) Domain Monday to friday Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger Village Café wednesday promotion. One East Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), Great Leap Brewing > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per RMB88+15% (2 courses) All day Wednesday, one select beer at Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 person, 12:00-2:30pm. > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite RMB25. 9830) 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 >At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 listings for details) Opus Terrace 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 5210) Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s 酒店2层 5865 5030 Mao Mao Chong bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. Great Leap Brewing Monday to Saturday > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao 11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with Twilight Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) (5695 8888) Pale Ale #6. RMB20 off cocktails. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Elements Vics listings for details) Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, Free drinks for ladies until midnight. 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 9pm-1am. > Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Hagaki (5900 5376) > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Stadium, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内 Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style 体西门58号 (6551 2373) (5293 0333) lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge. Tuesday 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, 4Corners Friday Flamme Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. Two-for-one steak all day. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ Mesh > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun weekly celebration of KTV. House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 free. 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Jing Yaa Tang Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. El Gran Bocado 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 The World of Suzie Wong’s

68 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com events

Every day

Parlor Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% R Lounge from RMB55-65 Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. with a glass of wine or soft drinks. Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard > See Listings for details > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, drinks and cocktails. 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, Beijing Marriott Hotel 9820) 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles The Big Smoke 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 and desserts, including juice or tea, Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, Flamme 层 (5863 8112) RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, house wines and beers. Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. Transit > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. 云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 8888) Blue Frog 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Vivid drinks. Modo Urban Deli Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 Isola > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, and beer RMB15. 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli 3-6pm Fashion high tea 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on 6310) branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10- selected drinks www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) 31 (6415 7207) 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course Transit RMB238, 3-course RMB258. Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of Centro Mosto > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, appetizers, mains, rice or noodles Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 with dessert for RMB88. > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, beer. 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Bene Restaurant 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) (6561 8833 ext. 42) 园3层 (5208 6030) Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. Factory (By Salt) Cuju NOLA > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ Daily 6-9pm, buy-one-get-one-free draft 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36 catering, from RMB150pp beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks. Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails 号 (5798 8888) > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, > 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区 including daiquiris. 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区西管胡同28号 (6407 9782) > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Cafe Sambal 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水 Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats 一层1号 (010 5762-6451) Feast (Food by East) 南街A-11 (8563 6215) and vegetables each, varying daily. With soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets

Weekend

saturday Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet One East > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, with free-flow champagne for RMB458 Either organic tenderloin steak (200g), Great Leap Brewing Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, plus 15 percent service charge. organic rib-eye (220g) or angus sirloin All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 (220g) plus veg or fries incl. a pint of beer at RMB25. 6666) Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 beer for RMB270/person 6-10:30pm >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411) 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, details) Senses and Prego North Dong Sanhuan, Chaoyang Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 R Lounge Brunch, international and Asian specialties saturday to sunday 酒店2层 5865 5030 Selection of drinks for free all night. with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails Agua > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch Eudora Station 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 percent service. is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with 4层 (5863 8241) > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B for free flow drinks. one main and free flow juice or coffee Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), for RMB98. sunday 乙9号(6629 7810) Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 Great Leap Brewing Seasonal Tastes 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188) 8331) All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for beer at RMB25. RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent Aroma Sui Yuan >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for surcharge. Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- details) > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 percent service charge. plus 15 percent surcharge. The Village Cafe 三环北路7号(5922 8880) Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under Sureño 国路83甲(5908 8161) 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726) 12) RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free Café Sambal Yi House Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling Sat-Sun international set menu for 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 free flow Champaign (all prices subject out weekend brunch. Three courses plus RMB308. to 15% service charge) coffee, tea or fruit punch. > Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1, 706 Hou Jie, 798 Qi > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1 sum including one double-boiled soup 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) 43号 (6400 4875) 号 (6436 1818) for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of Vasco’s

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Recommended ...... * listings Top Ten ...... ** including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,” OPEN DOOR restaurant braised pork in oyster sauce. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper The Hot One Hundred East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三 About This guide represents our editors’ 层 (5907 8406) top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) Peking Duck have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the Da Dong * cuisine, experience and affordability. Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijing- style roast duck and delectable wrap fill- CHINESE ings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow. Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine > Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328 See 8 Qi Nian (Cantonese/Sichuan/Hunan) www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant 11am-10pm) has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal Duck de Chine ¥ * soups. (Their decent wine list is just as Good duck is meant to show your guests effective.) how wonderful you are, as much as the >Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 with fantastic presentation of its crispy, Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 succulent duck (RMB188). 酒店2层 (5960 8822) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang Bellagio (Taiwanese) District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98 Where else can you carve through moun- Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号 tainous shaved ice desserts and suck down (6521 2221) creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this Shanghai swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best Shanghai Min enjoyed long after dark. Many swear this chain has the best > 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6号 (6551 3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity Din Tai Fung ¥ (Taiwanese) remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777) Additional locations in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www.online. thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese) Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a号商铺 Sichuan

Shanghai Min Chuan Ban * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan Min Dynasty Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 restaurant. eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- Looking for a different style of hairy crab before the season ends? Shanghai for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao Sun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5 Min, which serves classic and accessible Shanghainese cuisine, has just always a long wait. 号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101) launched three pioneering crab dishes that take the much-loved taste of > Xinyuanli branch: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Weekends 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): Transit ¥¥ * Yangcheng hairy crab to next level deliciousness. To the uninitiated, crab sea- 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源 Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and son isn’t limited to picking the delicacy apart by hand. Dishes like xiefen – a mix 西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional its equally hot girls. While the latter are up of crab roe, fat and meat in a rich and buttery mixture – are a popular way to branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand to you, the creative minds at Transit have Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun made some fiery additions to the classical, enjoy, sans mess. The iconic 80 branch-strong restaurant chain has partnered (see www.dintaifung.com.cn for details) chili-thumping canon, and they will charge with celebrated master chef Qian Yibin for these new dishes. you for that knowledge. But unlike many The Horizon (Cantonese, Sichuan, Beijing equally expensive joints, this is high-end First up on our visit is crab with foie gras and steamed egg, an Duck)* Chinese dining at its best. incredibly rich and textured dish of xiefen on a layer of foie Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Taikoo restaurant has widened its predominantly Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三 gras-infused steamed egg. A riff on the classic xiefen dan Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include 里屯路11号三里屯Taikooli北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)w (with egg), the creamy flavor of the foie gras and delicately dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking steamed egg is a perfect accompaniment to the crab roe, Duck – and the roast bird here really is Yunnan fabulous. without being too oily or fatty. Next up is another inno- > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Dali Courtyard * vation from chef Qian: crab meat and roe soup with sil- Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, ver carp head. Packed full of plump leg and claw meat, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard with dashes of orange roe and silver carp, this broth has Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck) setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the subtle notes of ginger and cilantro playing off the inten- Resembling something between a night- rustic ingredients. club and theater, the Opposite House’s > Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie, sity of the crab. Considered a local delicacy, silver carp basement restaurant proves to be more 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城 head is prized for its subtle flavor and gelatinous texture. than just style over substance with their 区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the Last up is steamed autumn crab with yellow wine double A, though. Lost Heaven ¥ (Yunnan, SE Asian) marinade, a dish with the famous Jiangzhe delicacy > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia ‘drunken crab’ – raw crab marinated in yellow wine for 12 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) passage, with a grandiose yet hours to sterilize. Served whole, the intense flavor of the sauce dark teak interior. permeates the meat, which is picked apart using both chopsticks Wu Li Xiang (Cantonese, Sichuan) * > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Impressive views don’t detract from the Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng and fingers. exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, District 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) > Daily 10am-10pm, Raffles Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng especially the famous dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions Middle 8th Restaurant * 东城区东直门内大街1号来福士购物中心 (6405 5993) of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong, Make room for the mushrooms – especially the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and

70 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings slightly swanky, without being pretentious, Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * this is a celebration of all things ‘south of Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not OPEN DOOR the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky- meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. Piedmont wine it is named after. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思 Additional venues in Sanlitun; Tai Koo Li Mall; Indigo 卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details) Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Yun’er Small Town Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. and banana leaf wrapped bolete mush- The grandeur is matched only by the ser- rooms will keep us crawling back. vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng of the experience. District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) > Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/ Dumplings brasserie/restaurants/beijing)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings * Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Con- The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings, temporary Western) * they really don’t come better than this. Find Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur it and you’ll never go elsewhere. at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinven- > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, tion of this long-standing Beijing fine Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 dining institution. (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826) > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95 Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东 OLIVE U Hot Pot 华门大街95号 (6526 8883) Ding Ding Xiang * Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Club Med Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding Ding The Art Deco interior, swish staff and XIang features a spacious dining room of breathtaking views over the archery towers sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of The Mediterranean – synonymous with ice-cream beach holidays, white- huo guo in their own individual pot. The al-fresco dining, with world-class modern washed walls, perilous cliffside driving and a cuisine so good it can add years delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a European stylings and deliciously posh to your lifespan. Olive U, in the Solana Mall (perhaps Beijing’s closest answer closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for > Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International restaurant of the year. to the Cote d’Azur, in terms of clientele rather than climate) brings together Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (op- > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen the best of the region’s fresh, earthy salads, pastas, fish and grilled meats posite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区 Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2 东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/ (Greek lamb kebabs are great, RMB78). Big bold colors and flavors, with healthy 9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang. capitalm/home.html) lashings of olive oil, basil, tomato, and black pepper. Try the beef carpaccio com.cn) Mio ¥¥ (RMB88), parma ham and melon (RMB88), or Greek salad (RMB58) for some- Haidilao Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with thing light to begin with. Then move onto the fabulous BBQ seafood platter Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight got their own brand. Either way, the raw to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts (RMB378) or monstrous 700g Australian prime beef rib (RMB398). In Beijing, meats and vegetables, cooked communally, a superb squash tortellini by hand, and quality is often left wanting on cuisine so reliant on big ingredients like pro- is divine, and the outstanding customer pampers diners with desserts like the sciutto and feta cheese, but at Olive U everything is up to scratch and portions service makes Haidilao a fitting church deconstructed tiramisu. > Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm are extremely generous. Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路 -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao > Daily 11am-2am, 16-17 Building 11, Solana Mall, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, 甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48 visit http:>www.haidilaohuoguo.com) 号, 朝阳区(5695 8888) Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区11号楼16-17号 (5905 6812)

Regional S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the kitchen concept, which includes a mouth- moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim watering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes restaurant. Eastern European and Central usually include dishes such as steak, foie Asian influences are evident throughout, gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes for international standard fine-dining. livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays > 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (6400- 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 5281) Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ tled into a charming traditional alleyway. (Contemporary Western) ** Munch happily into pickled greens and Setting is everything here, especially if don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist sesame balls. They’re sensational. temple. The bold contemporary European > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong, cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡 alone is worthy of worship. 同69号 (6407 1800) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城 Karaiya Spice House (Hunan) 区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.temple- Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most restaurant.com/) serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices Contemporary Western and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) palate: you’ll need it. What’s all this about, then? British gastro- cassanelli noemi by photo > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun pub classics, (like pukker fish Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentle- 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535) man’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, RAJ Makye Ame (Tibetan) mate. Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served consists of more than just yak-butter tea, on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Gulou Spice Shack the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 serves up nomadic classics such as curried (5662 8777) The most striking feature of Raj is undoubtedly its atmospheric, shrine-like in- potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy terior. The smell of exotic spices, the strumming of a sitar, the warm glow from Xiushui location is great for winter. Chi (Organic, Fusion) > Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic pots of burning incense – you might as well have walked in from the blistering ingredients all locally sourced, from the Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外 cold of a Himalayan ridge. However, the 2006 That’s Beijing award on the wall 秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616) owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 reminds you that you have in fact walked in from the blistering cold of Gulou, WESTERN Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同67号 (6445 7076) Beijing, where Raj (as its award from 8 years ago suggests) has been dishing Fine Dining out exceptional Indian fare for a while. We try a new mutton vindaloo recipe Grill 79 (Steak) (RMB68), a gruff curry with a spicy kick, which goes well with some milder dal Aria ¥¥ (European) * With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- A gold standard of opulence and, at ably make it onto the list even if the food tadka lentils (RMB45). The garlic naan here is on point (RMB25), thin and crispy RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then as per the orders of the Calcutta-native head chef. Round it off with a bottle of that the kitchen is superb, and supported around RMB150, the prices reflect that. Kingfisher beer (RMB25) under Raj’s beautiful wooden beam ceiling for one of In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal by one of the most extensive wine lists in perfectly. town. the more authentic Indian experiences in town. > Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat- > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, > Daily 11am-11pm 31 Gulou Xi Dajie, Xicheng 西城区鼓楼西大街31号 Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1 China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸 (6401 1675) 建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36) 大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 71 listings

Missa (European) * cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more OPEN DOOR Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of indulgent. meat or the long list of expertly made and > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- creative cocktails going down your gullet, 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu you can’t really go wrong at this refined Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 recommended Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) > Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯Taikooli北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917) Nasca Café Colorful and quirky shopping mall style Mosto * ¥ (European, South American) café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, there’s a decent range of sandwiches and thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for pizzas, available for delivery. modernising South American-style dishes > Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1 楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online. 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, thatsmags.com for details) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3 层 (5208 6030) Ricci Stuﬀ’d (Contemporary Western) Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- one kind of food in another. From sausage meets-organic vibe and serves up some of calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it the best casual western food in town, and all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. a great brunch at the Wudaokou branch > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号 > Chaoyang: Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat/Sun closed; (6407 6308) F1-109, 1/F, Borui Dasha, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, FLOR DE LOTO Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路甲26号博瑞大厦 F1-109 Yi House (Contemporary Western) (6516 7588) > Additional location in Wudaokou (see Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art www.riccicafe.com for details) District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered Vietnamese Delight The Rug (Contemporary Western, only by their wide range of cocktail concoc- tions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with Organic)* With the winter months upon us, now is the time to explore the comforting lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’ With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an tastes of Vietnamese cuisine. Thankfully, Wangjing’s Flor de Loto has opened choice for Restaurant of the Year. > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang just in time, serving up impeccable combinations of the spicy, sweet, salty and Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is sour flavors that have made South East Asian food so popular here in Beijing. 区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) a hit with green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. Start with the highly recommended egg rolls (RMB48, or RMB88 with salad) Café/Deli/Sandwich > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- which benefit from a gloriously crispy outside and strips of vegetable running 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Allday’s (Café) Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South through the center. If you prefer to have your say on what goes into your rolls, Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉 we suggest the fresh DIY spring rolls (RMB198) – have a selection of ingredi- 园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie ents brought to your table and build your own from scratch. If you want something truly warming, have a look at the fabulous pho selection (RMB54-77). Tribe Induction to this Tribe appears to involve The rich, scrumptious broth is the perfect antidote to a winter’s day. But there’s spending somewhere in the region of plenty more to feast on here, with the restaurant’s wonderful range of curries, RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly hot pots and fried rice and noodle dishes certain to hit the spot. pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing > Daily 11am-10pm; Room 201, Bldg 610, Wangjing Yuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京 that you are Eating Well. Salads (RMB48 园610号楼悠乐汇A座201室 (6477 7387) to RMB68), wraps and sandwiches (RMB45 to RMB78), and noodle and grain bowls (RMB48 to RMB68) are as tasty as they are holistic. > Daily 10:30am-10:30pm, 2 Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路3号 (8587 1899)

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Li- Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of calm angma River. Menu features British classics just outside the hustle and bustle of like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the boost compliment a wide range of Western handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. staples from the kitchen. >Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen > Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12 closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am, Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across 区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488) the street from Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝 Café Zarah (Café) 阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335) Red armchairs, table candles and a match- Wagas (Contemporary Western) ing Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy, Quality eats with minimal pretension. This minimalist interior of this cafe, popular stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element with young professionals. The Austrian- Fresh offers some of the best and most style breakfast sets here are the real deal, affordable Western lunch options in town. We have brunch while Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a vouchers for two to any in town. crowd pleaser. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, give away. To win, > Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 email bjeditor@ Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 9807) urbanatomy.com Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Additional location in ‘Matrix’ The Kerry Centre (see www.online.thatsmags.com Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) for details) Matrix Sunday Brunch Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, American/BBQ/Grill with somewhat questionable price tags. The Crowne Plaza Beijing Lido The recent revamp also affected the latter. The Big Smoke > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full Normally Sunday brunch is a relaxed affair, but at The Crowne Plaza Lido’s Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie Village南区8号楼833 (6417 1318) Matrix you can hear it before you even set foot inside. It’s not, luckily, the chicken via Uncle Otis). MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. cacophony of a hundred diners, but the intense sound of flamenco guitar and First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), drums. We guess it’s there to highlight the fact that these Sunday brunches are Western)* 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸 Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconven- 福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www. about stirring your senses – The Crowne Plaza Lido’s certainly succeeds. Photos tional and great fun, this compact eatery uncle-otis.com) of elated F1 drivers popping champagne bottles on the walls remind you that was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh Home Plate BBQ * free-flow sparkling wine is a sensory experience worth enjoying. Pair that with tapas style food and original finger foods. Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the as much succulent grilled lobster as your plate can carry, as well as a stellar The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for popularity of this entry-level range of pastas, grilled meats, sushi, noodles (the list goes on… don’t miss the picnics, with the smoked salmon and the brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blos- Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork soms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork slow-cooked pork) for such a reasonable price and you’ll start to get that feel- belly, is one of the best sarnies ever. sandwiches are the favorites, followed by ing of elation yourself. There’s a kids corner for families and a dessert corner > Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F, baby-back rib racks, but lesser dishes like Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 for chocoholics. Bonus: first 20 people to book each weekend get free access the rib tips, sides and burgers are just as Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号 good. Beer and bourbons are taken care to the pool. 三里屯Taikooli南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207) of, too. > RMB388 incl. free flow soft drink, coffee and tea, RMB428 incl. free flow wine, > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), cocktail & juice, RMB488 incl. free flow champagne (plus 15 percent service Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 charge, free for kids below six); Every Sunday 11.30am-3pm; 6 Jiangtai Road, of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) space, which also has a great selection of Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路6号 (8443 6228)

72 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

NOLA seafood and gorgeous desserts, too. N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. OPEN DOOR leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲 jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – 际酒店 (5852 5921) yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular Flamme (Contemporary Western) watering hole. Great service comes as standard. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11 号 (8563 6215)

Tim’s Texas BBQ

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Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on BIAOMEI LIANGDIAN 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu. Cantonese Please Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas > Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri- BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 Biaomei Liangdian (literal meaning: ‘cousin’s chic dessert’, obviously) is a home-style briskets, ribs and steaks – Taikooli南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo popular little Cantonese restaurant that has been on our radar for a while now. slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18 – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and 号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270) They’ve built their reputation on a menu of completely authentic cuisine, but Margherita’s recommended, partner. now it’s time for a shake-up. Try their baked seafood with belachan (RMB46), > Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Mexican/Tex Mex Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14 black pepper steak with eggplant (RMB58) and steamed bun with chocolate 号秀水2号院 (6591 9161) Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) sauce (RMB20). Some pretty radical takes on the classic Cantonese, but rest as- Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ Union Bar and Grill imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the sured the essential core of the menu is not lost – still a great place for fans of The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a fine southern cuisine. Union’s extensive menu – from eggs bite of the custardy flan. > 1 Floor, 8 Building, World City Business Street, 8-9 Jinhui Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, bases and hours, served by friendly staff. S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun 金汇路8-9号世界城商业街8号楼首层(近世贸天阶) (8353 5999, 8590 7216) The warm atmosphere tempts many to Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Taikooli南 stay all day. 区(6416 5212) Bene ¥ * 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, > Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S6- Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun El Gran Bocado (Mexican) no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区 This unassuming little taquiera has a color- tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and 3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117) ful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex extensive wine selection. 177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www. dishes, and one of the best nacho plates > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton tubestationpizza.com.cn for details) The Woods * we’ve had in Beijing. Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, New York native-owned, Manhattan-style Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 > Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, La Pizza restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 8995) ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple 1715) than that. Cepe ¥ > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, Taco Bar In a city inundated with Italian offerings, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂 Rising from the ashes of its deceased Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s 101 (6533 6380) hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, attention to the smallest detail – everything popular and able to produce some of the from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham Burgers most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only is import quality, and the wine is superb. RMB45 for three and great cocktails to Consider it the culinary equivalent of a Blue Frog complement. finely tailored suit. This Shanghai hamburger franchise has > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- been keeping Americans in China obese 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) always packed. 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, (6601 6666) S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (Korean- 区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional Mexican fusion) Isola Bar & Grill branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.blue- Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li frog.com.cn for details) North standards, is classic Italian panache – Burger Bar and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza. wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and Further branch in Solana and buffet truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3 > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47 > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东商铺 (www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reserva- 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000) [email protected]; 6416 3499) 阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Steak Mercante ¥ * Chaoyang Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号 Old World family charm in an intimate 1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大 Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- 厦4层 (5136 5990) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District logna offering an assortment of homemade in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都SH1112号(5900 3112) pastas and seasonal mains. > Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm; 3/F Corad Beijing, 29 > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 Spanish Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 北路9号1层 (6584 6270) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little 5098) hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Agua ¥ Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) * Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- Opera Bombana ¥ Meat so tender the knife falls through it: baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Michelin stars to his name, earned at his praise. Expensive, but where else are you Cali’ cocktails, too. wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant going to get steak this good? (Try the > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 to do so outside of his native land, and > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝 certainly the only one in Beijing. Weekends at 街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) Italian > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路号侨福芳草地地下层号 Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Con- Assaggi ¥ * 9 2 21 (5690 7177) temporary Western) * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy Pizza The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for Brunch RMB298/198 this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth Tube Station Inﬁnite drinks RMB168 cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus a return visit. Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza start from around RMB428 and merrily > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Bar Street 4508) be the biggest in town. Tel: 5208 6188 culent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 73 listings

Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish sure to rock your taste buds. This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- est and most celebrated restaurants is as invasion, Agua excels with reasonably > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix near to perfection as you’re likely to find. priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 of Chinese, South-East Asian and European Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the and jamon. 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) influences resulting in lots of bold flavors handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 and bright colors. to be missed. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 Rumi (Middle Eastern) > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, 那里花园 (5208 6188) 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层 Migas ¥ * 0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall 315室 (8517 2838) The boys at Migas have turned a concept Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) taurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations. Malacca Legend Malaysian food with a view, this spacious > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shu- Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 nyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for 那里花园6层 (5208 6061) some beef rendang or green curry prawns. O’Steak > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗 rare anymore, and here we have affordable 各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccaleg- but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the end.com) Irish sounding name, not a pint of Guinness in sight. Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, When it comes to Malay-style food in a Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, 8250) it’s something of a niche category, but then Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- German Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful help- style chicken is pricey, but worth it. ings of traditional Persian stews and tasty > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just Drei Kronen 1308 * kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池 Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. 胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant with a Filipino cover band can be) displays > Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring of all private dining rooms has some of armour and brewing kits draw regular Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838) Flor de Loto stunning food, and is the only place to evening crowds for the superb pork sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles Pinotage ¥ (South African) * in Beijing. (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed A seasonal blend of Dutch, English > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, on-site, RMB48-108). and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京 > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti 酒店6层 (6581 0072) Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5 impressive selection of fine import-quality 号楼1层(6503 5555) meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu Niajo ¥ * tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to RMB1,000), but what would you expect Shunyi worth it. from some of the best sushi in town? > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 cut above. 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online > Dongcheng branch: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 for details) Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) Asian Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998) Indian Sake Manzo * Indian Kitchen Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. > Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

Order the paella (their star dish) together 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) with some tapas and be automatically Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celeb- transported to Spain. With homely rity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese Mediterranean influences and a charming venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho management, Niajo is a prefect option to with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar. enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) is also offered. > Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052)French Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in Paulaner Brauhaus a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo The barmen here are serious about their The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Li Sanlitun then. sake. Boasting one of the best stocked Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the The go to curry house among Beijing’s > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun drinks cabinets in town with over 60 dif- hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the homesick Indian community, this ever Road 19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号 ferent sakes on offer, this super-cool little popular no-nonsense restaurant has built 楼 S1-30B (64163439, http:>www.greyhoundcafe. provinces. It can be pricey but is usually com.hk, (6416 3439) eatery is the perfect place to unwind after worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. up a solid reputation thanks to its wide a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao range of quality dishes and particularly cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out friendly service. Looking good after a Purple Haze (Thai) Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基 Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches of this world. One of the very best and least 饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732) recent rennovation and available on appreciated restaurants in town. JinShiSong online delivery. and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, African/Middle Eastern > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 town. Has all the classics like veggie spring Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号 1608) Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) * 2楼 (6462 7255) rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the Korean and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta Ganges seafood pad Thai (RMB45). has the Middle-East mid-range market all Conveniently located above popular > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang Ai Jiang Shan District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid This upscale seafood restaurant proves that > Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Indian curry house provides the perfect Susu (Vietnamese) chargrill and composure can go together. Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯后街 post-match culinary accompaniment. Or Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute 同里2层 (6467 2961) put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- bargain. after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * > Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号 bar with an incredible rum selection, but Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 stews, soups and la Vong fish. 双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other loca- > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and (6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世 tions visit http:>www.aijiangshan.com) Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10 rummery – so it still has an awesome rum 贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181) 号 (8400 2699) selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more Saveurs de Coree the best in town. locations. This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone > 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng Japanese several changes in recent years, not least 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782) Raj its move away from the hipper-than-thou Tucked away in musty old building just un- Hatsune ¥ (California Japanese) confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately, Mosaic Restaurant & Bar (Middle derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse Less a Japanese than a California roll joint, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Hatsune is now an old favorite among the Eastern) may look Chinese but everything on the Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though Promising “the best shawarmas and menu is authenticI Indian, espcially the the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too less so among sashimi purists. shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar rather fine naan. good to be true. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, offers a range of great value delicacies and C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路 Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401- Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with 甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional loca- 1675) 5753) a friendly and personalized service. One of tions in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall the few places in Beijing to offer genuine (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details) Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is the South-East Asian Vegetarian hidden secret of Sanlitun! Be sure to ask for Inagiku * Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) the boss’s Arabian fusion creations that are This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s old- Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian)

74 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

Like many Beijing residents, this place start- that made the place its name. Live lounge your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’ Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and ed out in Wudaokou and it’s since made music and a vast amount of pours are start- > Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great ing to persuade people it’s succeeding. Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405 > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday 4167) Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 they offer cooking classes as well. and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 MIX (6415 1954) Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie 朝阳体育场东门内 (6593 8227) A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix 门外大街乙6, 朝外SOHO, D座2层0260 (5900 1288) is one of those places in Beijing you have Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online. Glen ¥ to experience before you leave. Not much 10 Best Livehouses thatsmags.com for details) is forbidden in this underground hip-hop Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) endured poor service and drinks that are disco palace and if you don’t leave with Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- Great little livehouse near Meishuguan scandalous at the price), which is located in with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- thing very wrong. is by no means the exclusive preserve of > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get ky lovers have been known to swear by its bored of the drinks list quickly. Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 fans, this superbly honed eatery offers 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng See for yourself. 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969) some of the very best sandwiches – veg- > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, sohu.com etarian or otherwise – found anywhere in 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 * the city. Mai Bar * 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire trap. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Understated hutong hideaway with a long That place by the drive-through. But there’s Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道 list of some of the best cocktails in town. Glen Classic ¥ no denying that this artsy alternative 营胡同19号. (6446 2073) Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) venue has its fingers on an eclectic musical Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky pulse. In summer, it really comes alive with bars bar where discerning drinkers can sink barbecue pits, all-day parties and a whole into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while Mao Mao Chong ** lotta love. away the hours. Huge range of whiskies The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their > Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS and rums are personally selected by expert sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- drive-in movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳 About This guide represents our owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend infused vodka drink that’s a long way from 区亮马桥路21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com) editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some you something special. Moscow – are unique infusions using > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, local ingredients and know-how. Grungey Hot Cat Club 热力猫 That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 have been personally reviewed by our without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. experts, and scored according to the Cat is the type of hard-working venue that 园26号 (6551 6788) > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng helps cement a city’s music scene. From cuisine, experience and affordability. District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ * www.maomaochongbeijing.com) nights, this everyman’s club breeds good The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats 8-Bit crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes Mesh ¥ and plenty of space. Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some peppercorn ale was memorably good. and underground soundtrack draws the 46号(6400 7868). real gems make up an ever-growing col- Reservations used to be recommended bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable for their original hutong brewhouse, but days, quite a few old things, too). Jianghu 江湖酒吧 RMB25 a glass. the opening of a wildly popular new pub > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 is exactly where you’d take that friend from Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 there instead. 6688) out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy 1025 6538)) > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, atmosphere is also its downfall – any show 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ * with under 40 people and you’re stuck Apothecary ¥ * 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; The hipsters love this little brasserie- looking through the windows. Hip and Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 themed absinthe bar. Regular live shows casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. mean it can often get pretty crowded. That keep things low-key enough for the get- have made the Japanese-style Apothecary greatleapbrewing.com) should piss off the hipsters, yet still they home-for-the-babysitter crowd. bar a divisive choice to visit. See for your- keep coming. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, self: they also serve quality Cajun food. Heaven Supermarket > Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡 > Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 gled English teachers, Heaven sells the (136 9142 5744) [email protected]) 路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040) cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the Parlor Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 The Brick afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The easy and you’ll fit right in. smorgasbord of musical encounters from the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (6415 6513) 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) overpriced bar and come for the killer (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 sound, comfortable wraparound balcony Terminator) are probably needed for the Hidden Lounge * Q Bar ¥ and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. Although frustrating to find, Hidden Atop one of the city’s most average-looking followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly restaurant upstairs. Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), work and comfortable seating, suggesting oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院 a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix is one of the main lures, so in winter, you 1113, www.mako001.com) drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have may want to look elsewhere. Capital Spirits to call them to find it, though. > Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6 MAO Livehouse A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu), From the denim-jacketed doorman to the bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门东 well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every hutong setting, friendly owners and great 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) 100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www. Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling bottle collection. qbarbeijing.com) scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in > Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东 Ichikura ¥ town, Mao delivers with great sound and 城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, Revolution * the best billings of heavy metal, punk hit- com) this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but ting this side of the Drum Tower. a theater also offers terrific cocktails. if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia > 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 CICADA Ultralounge ¥ Although less expensive than several rivals, would be it. The East may be red but their 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com) The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge you’ll want to indulge. cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 The Post Mountain 后山 trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) Built into a man-made hill in the center of bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the Salud 老伍 * Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The cost. The Irish Volunteer A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Everything – from the red-faced owner to thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with and low beams. The rum infusions are a imported sound system and ramped floor (6418 9898) alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. particular favorite on cold nights. Latest makes for decent sound and sightlines. A good place to down a pint and a pizza branch in WDK a welcome addition to sur- > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimen- El Nido * before heading into town, then. rouding student dives. wai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemate- The first hutong hang-out to patent the > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido > NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 que) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8 fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774) Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly 号 (6438 5581) 66号 (6402 5086) Temple * in summer. The roast leg of mutton place > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Probably the manliest venue in town, this next door is one of the best locally. Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层 dimly lit and unventilated space is owned > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng Acclaimed by some foreign press as one by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) of the best bars in the world (cough), this Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** Burger) and known for late sets of hard not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard This popular microbrewery has its own rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs Enoterra of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long Looking for an affordable glass of wine serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Quality ales that change depending on drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis with that date? Look no further than Nali Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic the season, heated floors and a great little and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to Patio’s wine center. Although the food speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive kitchen round out the deal. the RMB15 draught. leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are staff and unimpeachable cocktails. The > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 202 (131 6107 0713) > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 house rules marring the menu. (6538 5537) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 XP 小萍里花园D405室 (5208 6076) 4号院 ( 6503 2757) From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary The Tree D-22, rises the brave new experimental A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, Fubar Lucky Man ¥ * club XP. Operated and owned by former you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer D-22 main man (and noted economist) Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic

www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 75 listings projections, drone-core jazz and the latest 育场西门向北100米(139 119 77989) Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 trendy British chain features interna- in cutting-edge Beijing sound. Cycle China provides organized cycling and tional products, knowledgeable (generally > 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south School Bar hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大 Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled as longer tours throughout China. Some never-ending stream of well-heeled hip 街四楼巷 (6406 9947) fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this of their more popular tours take cyclists clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Zajia Lab 杂家 through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen haute coiffure, depending on which grade Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. of stylish you select. A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区 > Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, expect an Italian Sinologist to open a venue District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re- Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁层 9947) – big on film screenings, A/V projects, [email protected] or [email protected]) 41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see) avant-garde puppetry and choice but ob- Vics scure live music for the adventurous. Laurent Falcon > Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, Separated at birth from its identical twin DENTAL Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏 brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti 恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc) sweatbox meat-market chic at its very Arrail Dental finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 Russians and jailbait students, helping Vics vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class We’ve lost more body weight than we’d to become one of the most infamous clubs equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- in the capital. locations across town and excellent facili- nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North ties make it one of the best dental provid- DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental from across the globe – were worth it. The 0333) services including examinations, whitening, upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat root-canal treatment, orthodontics and glands below. Bookstores implants. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng The Bookworm * Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南 District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711 This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, 角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang Hotel Bars bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, li- District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 brary, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Atmosphere ¥¥ space always has a cultured evening on its Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of shelves for both adults and kids. 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com) 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Page One District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 The go-to shop for new releases and special (8440 1926) 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic Centro ¥ Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Although it’s no longer quite the go-to whilst upholding an extensive collection Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- of titles. in Lido (which has its own dental clinic tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World onsite). A comprehensive range of services jazz performaces, spacious and recently Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang are at hand, including restorative dentistry renovated lounge areas and classic drinks District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all like the blue-cheese martini. 1055, www.pageonegroup.com) appointments. > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙 Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) 1层 (6561 8833) 中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com) China Bar ¥¥ SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 Top views from the 65th floor and flash FITNESS The full spectrum of dentistry. Services The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of drinks are the attractions on offer at this include teeth cleaning, root-canal treat- experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon. hip hotel bar. JYihe 42° Hot Yoga ment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whit- KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) ening and veneers. Credit cards accepted. RMB115-468 men. > www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ > 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Xian ¥ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. This enlongated bar space makes a nice 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 (59000676,153 1311 1519). 43 Sanlitun Beijie spot for refreshment after a day spent 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Nan,Chaoyang.三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971) shopping at neighboring Indigo. Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com) Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 HEALTH SERVICES 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital Nightclubs 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night ser- The Bar at Migas ¥ 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon- Fri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha vices and transportation assistance, Amcare A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 provides a trustworthy experience. English- than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm speaking services include pediatrics, calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas gynecology and obstetrics. the party started. Good-enough cocktails 北京朝阳区光华东里号中 3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 8 > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. the music, man. Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – amcare.com.cn) > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little HAIR SALONS 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang intimidating to begin your journey into Beijing International Medical Center District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) Yoga, so they are available to answer any Catherine de France (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medi- Chocolate ¥ questions you may have. It’s a great cal Center-Beijing counts on an expert team It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without workout for the body and calming for the of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 medical services, including family medicine, dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. 9996, 8599 7395) psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with > Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for bottles of spirits from around RMB200, Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路 travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also cocktails under RMB50 (including the 蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园 Arabic and Russian spoken. and regular floor shows. Best to avoid this 西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 cavernous slice of underground kitsch after yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 midnight, though. Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 大厦3FA 1384/28, www.imclinics.com) 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988) Heyrobics Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Dada * “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with Clinic It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business too long, but already Dada is the hippest The only fitness craze worth following in Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punish- 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ under rock house Temple offer an intimate ing full-body workout set to pumping Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) place to nod along to an eclectic range of beats – not forgetting the fluores- trained team of international and local all things electro from the best names on cent spandex. Differing classes for all stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- the underground scene. abilities, check online for the full schedule. welcomes all ages and budgets in a ics 北京和睦家医院 > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B range of hair and beauty treatments, 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, 栋101室 (183 1108 0818) California Fitness Beijing Club including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI. 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Lantern * is among the best in the region, and with > EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am- Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture membership you have access to over 150 Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the weekly Group X classes and a team of Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars professional personal trainers in Asia. Your E-mail: [email protected] 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, membership also includes free towel usage Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 it also makes good drinks and attracts and a fitness assessment. com 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. international electronica DJs. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District Tony & Guy Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 A favorite of many Beijing expats, the Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet,

76 | december 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am- CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO2号楼北京BISS国际学校北京顺义国际学校 4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real 1801 (138 1182 1008) > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District > www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺 Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. 义区安华路10号 (8149 2345) 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi 24hours Massage Center com.cn) Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, SIBS Springboard International Blingual 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Beijing City International School School 君城国际双语学院 Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 Outcall and incall 北京乐成国际学校 Springboard International Bilingual School 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Located in Beijing’s Central Business Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, hotel service massage is a place where children, staff and parents District, Beijing City International School work in partnership to enable all their 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang we are available in Beijing East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人 (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering students to realize their full potential. They 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. Suzhou, Hangzhou, Guangzhou, and Inspiring through Challenge and are offering a stimulating and full inter- com.cn, [email protected] Shenzhen and Shanghai. Compassion.” This non-profit, independent national curriculum as well as an exciting ▶ Special recommend co-educational day school offers an inter- after school program, which will include Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- Full body oil massage...... 120mins national curriculum under the International Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 Tantric Massage...... 90mins Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and football. TOP royal body massage by two girls...... 120mins is authorized to teach all three IB programs > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 ▶ In-call and out-call Programme). (www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450) > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 138 1166 4581 百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn) Western Academy of Beijing 139 11671 1819(Shanghai) 京西国际学校 The International Montessori School of The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is Address: Rm 315 East Tower Vanpalace Center, Guangdongdian South Street. Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 a creative and innovative IB World School Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully built upon a solid foundation of core Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa registered international Montessori school. values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pam- The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students pering Beijing’s finest in their small chain Mandarin/English program geared towards exemplify these values through their aware- of contemporary spas. Calming flower helping students achieve fluency in either ness of the world around them, service to aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui language from an early age. Curriculum others, can-do spirit and commitment to fountains create a soothing atmosphere in aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a excellence. WAB graduates are accepted each of their locations, while a long list of high teacher-student ratio and impres- into world-class colleges and universities treatments from around the world cater to sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 across the globe. all pampering needs. - RMB177,000/year. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District > Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588) Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hm- www.taipan.com.cn) Yew Chung International School http:>www.msb.edu.cn, [email protected] care.org, en.hmcare.net 耀中国际学校 > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang Hongkong International Medical Clinic, EDUCATION Beijing World Youth Academy District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所北京世青国际学校 www.ycis-bj.com) Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau MBA & EMBA Schools Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 international school for students of all na- Kindergartens tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs 北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, BBA at BFSU-SolBridge on its campuses conveniently located in Beanstalk International Bilingual School 6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. 北京外国语大学国际商学院 hkclinic.com Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School 青苗国际双语学校 > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 since 2001, BWYA values holistic education > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 International SOS 6763/8881 8537) and seeks to give students ample oppor- Since 1989, International SOS has been run tunity to develop as globally-aware critical 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 by globally trained medical professionals Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 Rutgers International Executive MBA thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School and provides medical, security and travel > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang activities are offered to further enrich > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 student life. Graduates of BWYA have been 号 (8456 6019) alarm centers operate house calls, ambu- 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com) accepted at prestigious universities around lance and evacuation services, and standard the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB House of Knowledge International Kinder- health treatments. Languages spoken Mandarin Schools 100,000- 140,000/year. garten (HOK) include English, German, French, Mandarin, > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, House of Knowledge International kindergar- Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. The Frontiers School Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市 ten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergar- Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) ten program for children aged 10 months to 中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.interna- 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as tionalsos.com) The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 competent learners and the school empha- The British School of Beijing, established in sizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, Parkway Health Clinic 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & in an environment where children “Lean to > Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB of- Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 has a elementary school starting from grade AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ fers an enhanced English National Curricu- lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 1 in September 2014. parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. 北京Link 101-201室 Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- 朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. > 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to hokschools.com) Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529- arrange a school tour. 6618. Email: [email protected]. Website: www. > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, EtonKids International Kindergarten vista-china.net Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, 伊顿国际幼儿园 www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@british- 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 OASIS International Hospital Join the friendly and professional team at school.org.cn) Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang OASIS International Hospital specializes in District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 serving the expatriate community with the for 11 years. Canadian International School of Beijing北 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, latest world-class technology and a broad 京加拿大国际学校 Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 range of services, all in a pristine facility de- 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交 signed to provide patients with the utmost com.cn) downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- comfort, care and privacy. tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its 汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am- Beijing Mandarin Language School doors in September 2006. This world-class 12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao facility offers an internationally recognized Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝 Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn) School is the city’s top institute for teaching Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park spoken and written Mandarin as a second tion. The Canadian International School Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈 language. More than 5,000 students of Beijing develops the whole child in an 泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, SPA & MASSAGE from over 66 countries and more than 80 environmentally sensitive school within a Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门 companies and embassies have successfully kind, caring community to become a citizen 外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat learned with us each year. of the world. Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星 Created as a contemporary urban retreat, > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquil- Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn) Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天 ity in the midst of the hectic city. 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmanda- 北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内 > Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near rinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Harrow International School Beijing The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998) 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方 Harrow International School Beijing prides Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Beijing Juncheng Language School itself on its high academic standards, a > www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝北京君诚语言学校 close-knit school community, a rich extra- 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai 阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, curricular activity program and the quality Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 of its pastoral care provision. Leadership 湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿 of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 skills are promoted school-wide, with a 园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, 桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, range of enrichment activities to help Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 (8532 3122) Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 students develop teamwork and creative 阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden 路古城段15号 (8049 0307) thinking skills, as well as independence and Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Angel Hands Massage Center responsibility. Students graduating from Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦 The Bridge School Harrow Beijing have won places at a range 万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) of universities across the world including Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝北京桥汉语言学校 Let us release your stress and make you 阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, ware- > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, house4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Chaoyang District 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路 Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin) 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy 3e International 北京3e国际学校 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. > 6437 3344 International Schools Email: [email protected] Our masseuses will know how to pamper www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台 you and attend to your every need. Beijing BISS International School International School of Beijing 西路9-1号(四德公园旁) > Room 1801, Building 2, JianwaiSOHO,

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www.thatsmags.com | december 2014 | 79 sports | football CSL Season in review The Teams! The Players! The Comedy Nicknames!

by Ian Walker

Guangzhou Evergrande were worthy wouldn’t be very happy if he turned up to of- Chinese Super League champions. Why? that is a great return for us. He’s quick, he’s Simple – they had the best team and they gotare anow lethal known); left foot 19 and goals he in has his got first a beauti season,- got the most points. It’s football, not rocket ful big bum which he uses to bounce defend- ficiate a big game of ours… science! ers out of the way! Think I’m joking? The That said, while Evergrande had strength fans have nicknamed him Da Pigu – ‘Fat Ass’. in depth to get the job done, I’m not sure they (I hope you’re reading this, Toby…) were as good as they were in 2013. It was a Casting an eye across the continent, the bit tighter than they would have anticipated Asian Champions League Final between – or liked – with Beijing Guo’an coming on Western Sydney Wanderers and Saudi side strong in the second half of the season and Al-Hilal caused a bit of controversy. It looks forcing the title race down to the last game. like the Japanese referee went home with a Beijing ended up faltering at the last hurdle, load of Aussie dollars in his back pocket!* dejan damjanović and erton Fejzullahu but it was great to see the two best teams It was always going to be a tough game battle it out to the death. for Sydney, and they have got to think that The Asian Champions League is the big A lot of that was down to the arrival they completely got away with it; there one for Chinese teams, and will be the target of Guo’an’s strike duo in July, Swede were at least three of what you would call for my club next season, especially with con- Erton Fejzullahu and Montenegrin Dejan ‘stonewall penalties’, but for some reason referee Yuichi Nishimura didn’t give them. I Eriksson, and talk of an RMB500 million war would not be a happy man if that happened chestfirmation with of which the appointment to strengthen of the Sven-Göran squad. andDamjanović. straight awayThey youcame saw in scoringan improvement. – bagging They22 goals gave in the fifteen team games more betweenbelief, a bitthem – Hysen has got a beautiful ours, trying to break into that sought-after of impetus. Apparently Fejzullahu is a big bum he uses to bounce top three.It is going Champions to be difficult four times for teams in a row, like handsome devil too – I don’t see it myself… Evergrande are always going to be strong. In terms of other standout players, you defenders out of the way! And Beijing will be desperate to go for the have to say it was the strikers. First up you Think I’m joking? The fans call title after pushing them all the way this year. have look at Evergrande and their Brazilian Then there is the team Sven has just left, scoring machine, Elkeson – good in the air, a him ‘Da Pigu.’ Guangzhou R&F, who took third place this to me – making it all the way to the ACL Final year. He left them looking strong (let’s hope penalties. You can’t argue with that record – only for the referee to do that. he doesn’t live to regret it in the coming 52two-footed goals in 56finisher, Chinese takes Super free League kicks, bangs games. in I probably wouldn’t have spat on, tried - He scores for fun. ished fourth – strong squad and rich owners. Hamdallah over at city rivals Guangzhou Saudis did, however. He’s let himself go season).And ifAnd all cupthat finalistwasn’t enough,Shandong, there who will fin R&F was the surprise package of 2014. there;to head emotions butt or fight running people, high, as the one disap of the- undoubtedly be one or two others stumping Nobody really knew him before he came to pointment. Still, no real excuse for that kind up some cash to see if they can break the sta- China – a young Moroccan guy who came in of behavior. A bit of a disgrace. tus quo. The likes of Guizhou, Jiangsu… and I feel for them though, because they it will be interesting to see what Shanghai thought they had been cheated. Whether it Shenhua do in response to our new owner- was just incompetence at the highest level, ship – they also have big backers. or whether somebody took some money, I So it won’t be easy. We had a good sea- don’t know. Obviously you can only specu- son this year given our budget, but it is time late. But it was incompetence at the high- to strengthen and organize. Nothing less

Nishimura saw things. But there are no guarantees in this league. est level,Nishimura at the –very that least. name Baffling ring a bell? the way He *than There a top is, ofthree course, finish absolutely will be good no sugges enough.- tobias ‘da pigu’ hysen was the same referee who gifted Brazil tion here that the Japanese referee “went victory over Croatia in the opening game of home with a load of Aussie dollars in his back and scored a load of goals out of nowhere. the World Cup. Croatia were playing very pocket…” - well at 1-1 with 20 minutes to go, when isher… again, a player who can score with hosts Brazil got a helping hand with a very Former england international goalkeeper ian walker bothHe’s quick,feet. sharp on the turn, a lethal fin dubious penalty (so he can give them!). played for tottenham hotspur, leicester city and And of course, Tobias Hysen at my team It will be interesting to see if he ever bolton wanderers. he is now goalkeeper coach of Shanghai East Asia (or Shanghai SIPG as we referees at the highest level again. I certainly shanghai east asia.

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