GLOBAL SUSHI: a SOCIO-ECOLOGICAL ANALYSIS of the SICILIAN Blllefin TUNA FISHERY by STEFANO B. LONGO a DISSERTATION Presented To
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GLOBAL SUSHI: A SOCIO-ECOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF THE SICILIAN BLllEFIN TUNA FISHERY by STEFANO B. LONGO A DISSERTATION Presented to the Department of Sociology and the Graduate School ofthe University ofOregon in partial fulfillment ofthe requirements for the degree of Doctor ofPhilosophy June 2009 11 University of Oregon Graduate School Confirmation of Approval and Acceptance of Dissertation prepared by: Stefano Longo Title: "Global Sushi: A Socio-Ecological Analysis ofthe Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery" This dissertation has been accepted and approved in partial fulfillment ofthe requirements for the degree in the Department ofSociology by: Richard York, Chairperson, Sociology John Foster, Member, Sociology Yvonne Braun, Member, Sociology Joseph Fracchia, Outside Member, Honors College and Richard Linton, Vice President for Research and Graduate StudieslDean ofthe Graduate School for the University of Oregon. June 13,2009 Original approval signatures are on file with the Graduate School and the University of Oregon Libraries. 111 © 2009 Stefano B. Longo IV An Abstract ofthe Dissertation of Stefano B. Longo for the degree of Doctor ofPhilosophy in the Department of Sociology to be taken June 2009 Title: GLOBAL SUSHI: A SOCIO-ECOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF THE SICILIAN BLUEFIN TUNA FISHERY Approved: _ Dr. Richard York This dissertation is a sociological study ofthe Sicilian bluefin tuna fishery. It will examine the social and ecological transformation ofthis fishery during the modern era. This will be analyzed utilizing a sociological framework that draws on theory from environmental sociology. The Sicilian fishery has been exploited for its abundant tuna for over a millennium, providing a major source ofprotein for Mediterranean civilizations. However, within the last halfcentury there has been exponential expansion of industrialized methods ofproduction and increasing capture efforts. This has culminated in the development ofbluefin tuna "ranches," which have become a highly controversial method for supplying global markets. Escalating pressure on the fishery has contributed to a host ofenvironmental and social concerns, including pushing this important fishery to the brink ofcollapse. Using a combination ofprimary and secondary source data such as interviews with local fishers and those in the tuna ranching sector, data compiled by v international agencies such as the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) as well as archival data on the Sicilian bluefin tuna fishery, I will employ sociological methods and analyze the recent changes in social life and the environment in Sicilian fishing communities. Subsequently, this project will shed light on the globalized and industrialized nature ofthe modem agri-food system and lead to a better understanding ofits social and environmental impacts. vi CURRICULUM VITAE NAME OF AUTHOR: Stefano B. Longo PLACE OF BIRTH: Queens, NY DATE OF BIRTH: June 3,1969 GRADUATE AND UNDERGRADUATE SCHOOLS ATTENDED: University ofOregon, Eugene, OR University ofColorado, Boulder, CO Pace University, Pleasantville, NY Boston University, Boston, MA Nassau Community College, Garden City, NY DEGREES AWARDED: Doctor ofPhilosophy, Sociology, June 2009, University ofOregon Master of Science, Sociology, June 2005, University ofOregon Master ofArts, Education, May 1997, University ofColorado, Boulder Bachelor ofArts, Psychology, August 1991, Pace University, Pleasantville, NY AREAS OF SPECIAL INTEREST: Environmental Sociology Political Economy Social Theory vii PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE: Instructor, University ofOregon, 2005-2008 GRANTS, AWARDS AND HONORS: Dissertation Research Award, "A Socio-Ecological Analysis of the Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery," Rural Sociological Society, 2008 Data Collection and Presentation Award, "A Socio-Ecological Analysis of the Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery," Department of Sociology, University of Oregon, 2008 University of Oregon Dissertation Research Award, "A Socio-Ecological Analysis ofthe Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery," Department Nomination, 2008 OUS-SYLFF Graduate Fellowship for International Research, "A Socio-Ecological Analysis of the Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery," Department Nomination, 2008 Wasby-Johnson Sociology Dissertation Research Award, "A Socio-Ecological Analysis ofthe Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery," Department ofSociology, University of Oregon,2007 PUBLICAnONS: Longo, Stefano B. and Richard York. 2008. "The Human Ecology of Water: An Exploratory Macro-Comparative Analysis." Human Ecology Review 16:75 83. Longo, Stefano B. and Richard York. 2008. "Agriculture Exports and the Environment: A Cross-National Analysis of Fertilizer and Pesticide Consumption." Rural Sociology 73:82-104. Longo, Stefano B. and Nicholas Malone. 2006. "Meat, Medicine and Materialism: A Dialectical Analysis of Human Relations to Nonhuman Animals and Nature" Human Ecology Review 13: 111-121. Longo, Stefano B. 2006. "Review of Diet For a Dead Planet: Big Business and the Coming Food Crisis, by Christopher D. Cook." Organization and Environment 19:297-300. V111 Longo, Stefano B. 2004. "Review ofBlue Gold: The Fight to Stop the Corporate Theft ofthe World's Water, by Maude Barlow and Tony Clarke." Human Ecology Review 11:67-68. IX ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to express sincere appreciation to the many people that have provided encouragement and support for this project. I am truly grateful to have had the opportunity to work closely with the accomplished group ofscholars who made up my dissertation committee. Each ofthem has played an important role in the development ofthis work and my intellectual growth. In particular, I want to thank Dr. Richard York, committee chair, for his mentorship and support. I wish to acknowledge financial support for this project provided in part by the Rural Sociological Society, the Wasby Johnson Dissertation Research Award, and the Department ofSociology at the University ofOregon. This work is also greatly indebted to many family and friends in the United States and in Italy who provided invaluable assistance, hospitality and solidarity including Rosetta Longo, Salvatore (Toto) Sesali, Beniamino Longo, Anna-Linda Longo, Daniele Castrizio, Baldo Sabella, Giovanni D'Anna, Giuseppe DiStefano, Nicholas Malone and Rebecca Clausen. The support ofmy family, particularly Mom and Dad, was crucial to this project. Finally, I especially wish to express my gratitude and love for my wife and life partner Jeannette and my daughter Antonina Sofia, who teach me so much on a daily basis. I could not have completed this project without their love, support, and inspiration. x Per fa bellissima Antonina Sofia Xl TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page 1. INTRODUCTION 1 Background ofthe Problem 1 Nature as a Social Issue 2 The Global Agri-Food System 4 Eco-Social Context: Global Marine Fisheries in Crisis 6 Sicily and the Bluefin Tuna.. 9 State ofthe Mediterranean Bluefin Stock 9 La Tonnara: Traditional Sicilian Fishing 13 Global Production: Expansion ofthe Sicilian Fishery 16 Research Methods 18 Historical Anlaysis 19 Field Research 20 Interviews 22 Quantitative Data 26 Contribution 27 Overview ofthe Chapters 28 II. THEORETICAL LENS: ENVIRONMENTAL SOCIOLOGY AND RADICAL POLITICAL ECONOMy............................................................. 32 Introduction . 32 A Radical Political Economic Approach .. 33 Environmental Sociology and Political Economy............................. 35 Classical Foundations ofPolitical Economy..................................... 35 Neoclassical Economic Theory 40 Marx and the Critique ofPolitical Economy.................. 44 Environmental Economics and Environmental Sociology 48 Modernization Theories 50 Environmental Economics 51 Environmental Economics and Free Trade.................................. 57 XlI Chapter Page Ecological Modernization Theory 60 Radical Political Economy and the Environment 64 World-Systems Theory 65 Second Contradiction ofCapitalism.............................. 67 Treadmill ofProduction 71 Metabolic Rift 74 Nature and Marx's Materialist Conception ofHistory 76 Social Metabolism and the Metabolic Rift 81 Analytical Lens 84 III. THE HISTORY OF THE SICILIAN TONNARA 88 Introduction 88 Tuna Fishing in Archaic and Ancient Sicily 89 Roman Sicily and Bluefin Fishing............. 99 The Emergence ofthe Tonnara - Arab and Norman Sicily.................... 101 Expansion ofthe Tonnara - Spanish Sicily up to the Modem Era 105 A BriefNote on the "Southern Question" III IV. TONNARE AND TONNAROTI 114 La Tonnara Siciliana 114 Design ofthe Tonnara 116 Social Relations in the Tonnara 122 Division ofLabor 127 Ownership and Property Rights 128 Technology, Labor and Nature in the Tonnara 138 Tonnara and Tonnaroto: Intimate Relations to Nature 142 A Collective Identity and Culture 147 Decline ofthe Tonnara 150 V. THE INDUSTRIALIZATION OF THE MEDITERRANEAN BLUEFIN TUNA FISHERY 153 Introduction 153 X111 Chapter Page Industrialization ofGlobal Fish Production and Expansion of Consumption 153 Expansion ofthe Bluefin Market 156 Bluefin Tuna: From Cat Food to High Class Cuisine 159 Transformations in the Global Bluefin Market 163 Industrialization ofthe Mediterranean Sea . 166 The Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fishery Goes Global............................... 170 Tuna Farming: Bluefin Ranching 173 Bluefin Tuna Ranches and Global Capital........ 180 Tuna Ranching in Sicily 184 Aquaculture or Ranching? 186 Bluefin Ranching and Environmental Concerns 188 ICCAT: Management ofthe Mediterranean Fishery 189 Conclusion..................