Tibetan Highlands - to Lhasa (13 Days) We love road journeys. They are by far our favourite way of traveling. We think the world of western and the countries that border on this region – think Vietnam, Lao, , , for example.

On the Road Experiences is all about sharing with like-minded travelers just how beautiful a road journey in these varied lands can be. Now turn the page to find out what we’ve come to love so much…

p2 p3 Itinerary Map …where you will travel… p. 006 Yes, it is possible… p. 008 Journey of Discovery… p. 010 Day-by-day… p. 060

In closing... Any car you like, so long as it is an SUV… p. 079 Adventures and discoveries in local cuisines p. 080 What’s included/Best Months to Go... p. 082 Photo credits p. 085 p5 Itinerary Map Day1 Day8 Arrive in Kunming – Markham to Zogang – Preparing for your journey Adventure on the high plateau

Day2 Day9 Dali and Xizhou – Zogang to Rawok – To the heart of the Nanzhao Kingdom Mountain passes and riverside roads... Day3 Xizhou to – Day10 To ’s UNESCO world heritage Rawok to Pomi – town Through the spectacular Sundzom Valley Day4 Lijiang to Shangri-La – Day11 Via the to the Pomi to Bayi – Edge of The road to Lhasa - the best and worst of the G318 Day5 Shangri-La to Deqin – Day12 Gorgeous scenery and glaciers From Bayi to Lhasa – Arriving in Lhasa at last! Day6 In and around Deqin – Day13 Exploring the foot hills of Meili Snow Farewell Lhasa – Mountain Life must go on....or continue?

Day7 Deqin to Markham – Onto the ‘Roof of the World’ and into p6 Tibet p7 Yes, it is possible...

Tibetan Highlands (Kunming to Lhasa) is a discovery of the world’s most stunningly beautiful scenery: the valleys and mountains of the .

Set out from Kunming, and travel through some of Yunnan’s best loved destinations – Dali and Shangri-La – as well as some of its most remote, before driving onwards and upwards to Lhasa.

En route, drive past Yunnan’s highest peak, Mount Kawakarpo (6,740 metres). Join Tibetan worshippers as they sing hymns in a remote Catholic church on the border of Yunnan and Tibet. Cross high mountain passes near Dzogong, before driving through the lushly forested valleys around Pomi and along the banks of the Brahmaputra. Finish your journey in Lhasa, and join scores of other modern-day pilgrims around the , Tibetan ’s holiest shrine.

Join this spectacular journey and discover why mysterious Tibet has captured the imagination of explorers for centuries…

On the Road in Experiences has paved the way for you to cross provinces and into Tibet in your own properly insured SUV, so that you can enjoy the romance of a classic overland journey without any of the logistical headaches that typically accompany such journeys...

p8 p9 p11 Awaking in China’s RURAL COUNTRYSIDE…”

Sunrise in Xizhou p13 Take a lake shore DRIVE and enjoy the BEAUTIFUL sunset reflections…”

Lake Erhai, Xizhou, near Dali p15 LIJIANG is touristy, but there ARE HIDDEN GEMS to DISCOVER…”

Jade Lake not far from Lijiang...

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain seen from the , Lijiang… p17 The lovely winding alleys of Lijiang’s old town are a UNESCO World Heritage site...”

Lijiang Old Town p19 The TIGER LEAPING GORGE… where the makes you TREMBLE!”

Tiger Leaping Gorge p21 Yunnan to Tibet IS a driving ADVENTURE…”

Near Tiger Leaping Gorge p23 STUNNING LANDSCAPES on the way to LIJIANG…”

From a back road near p25 A colourful WELCOME as you APPROACH TIBET...”

Tibetan prayer flags p27 Along the way, one of the LARGEST MONASTERIES in SOUTH-WEST China…”

Shangri-La’s Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p29 RED-ROBED MONKS in Shangri-La”

At the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p31 A chance to PURIFY YOUR MIND?”

Prayer Session at Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p33 What a SUNRISE at the EDGE of TIBET…”

Kawagebo peak in the Meili Snow Mountain range p35 Wonderful HIKING, if you like, as a WAY TO RELAX…”

In the foot hills of Meili Snow Mountain p37 Where the 72 hairpin TURNS YANGTZE descending from originates...” 4,700m to 2,700m on the way to LHASA…”

TheNear beautiful Yela Mt. Tanggula Pass, Tibet Mountain Range p39p39 RIVER CROSSING...It brings out the CHILD in us!”

Along the G318, Tibet p41 In SPRING or in AUTUMN, an ENCHANTING place to EXPLORE…”

Midui Glacier, near Pomi, Tibet p43 LIKE a PAINTING, mist in the DENSE FORESTS on the WAY to LHASA…”

The Brahmaputra flowing west, Tibet p45 Where THIS LAND is MY LAND, says the YAK…”

p47 PROSTRATING for SPIRITUAL reasons...”

Pilgrims on their way to Lhasa p49 IF you’re LUCKY, you will meet FASCINATING PEOPLE...along this route…”

At a temple in Tibet... p51 p52 p53 PILGRIMS PRAY in the shade...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p55 GOSSIP and PRAYER go hand-in-hand...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p57 RAINBOW not included...”

The Jokhang, Lhasa p59 p61 Day 1 Day 2 Bai headdress all over Dali. Tourism is now the mainstay Arriving in Kunming Driving Distance & Duration To the heart of the of Dali’s economy, but in years Driving Distance & Duration and preparing for your Distance: NA Nanzhao Kingdom gone by the city was the capital Distance: 360 km of the Nanzhao Kingdom, which journey Duration: NA Duration: 4.5-5.5 hours On your first day, you will ruled a swathe of what is today drive to Dali and on to Xizhou, Yunnan Province and northern Arrive in Kunming according to In the evening, enjoy a group Elevation home of the Linden Centre – a Burma between the 8th and 9th Elevation your own arrangements. dinner together in a lovely, local Highest Daytime: 1900m lovingly converted Bai minority centuries AD. restaurant near your hotel and Highest Daytime: 2050m Overnight: 1850m mansion, where you will stay We will meet you at the airport attend our staff’s safety briefing. From Dali it is only a short drive Overnight: 2000m and transfer you to your hotel. for the night. Hotel north to the Bai minority village If you require a temporary Dinner will be an opportunity to InterContinental Kunming Today’s route is designed of Xizhou…a hidden gem in the Hotel Chinese driving license, we begin to acquaint yourself with to ease you into driving in countryside. will take you to the hotel via the many flavours of Yunnan’s (*****) Linden Centre, Xizhou (****) mainland China…mostly on the Vehicle Licensing Bureau. cuisine and to meet your fellow a wonderful highway that Slowly, we’re sure, you will feel All the documents for your travellers. your workday stresses ebb as temporary license will be allows us to gain distance from you ease into the rhythm of prepared; you will just need to Kunming, the capital of Yunnan travelling. take a simple eye test and sign province. the forms. Yunnan has one of the best After settling into the hotel, road networks in China, as you may want to go for a stroll today’s drive will demonstrate. along the city-center Green After a relaxed start to the day Lake where many locals enjoy you will set out from Kunming relaxing hours. The vicinity of and drive along a world-class the lake bustles with people highway until you reach Dali young and old and throughout – formerly capital of Yunnan’s much of the year is lush green. Nanzhao Kingdom. Depending on the season, energetic migratory birds make The population of the region the lake their temporary home. around Dali is predominantly Bai minority and you will see ladies wearing the traditional p63 Day 3 To Yunnan’s UNESCO world heritage town

In the early morning, we After lunch we have planned recommend either a stroll for a visit to the tiny village through Xizhou market – a real of Yuhu, Joseph Rock’s home treasure! – or a drive by the while he was stationed in shore of lake Erhai. the Yunnan region. Yuhu is a pretty Naxi minority village Then, after breakfast at the very close to Jade Dragon Driving Distance & Duration Linden Center, it is a short Snow Mountain. It feels a few drive to Lijiang where you decades away from Lijiang’s Distance: 155 km arrive for lunch. Lijiang, former busy old town thanks to the Duration: 2 hours capital of the “Nakhi Kingdom”, fact that it remains more was introduced to the West by or less undiscovered and Elevation eccentric American botanist is therefore almost tourist Highest Daytime: 2600m Joseph Rock in the 1930s and free (although, sadly, this is Overnight: 2500m 40s. The cobbled streets of changing rapidly, too.) Lijiang’s old town, a UNESCO Hotel World Heritage Site, run along- In the evening, we have a side crystal clear streams and special dinner planned for Intercontinental Lijiang (*****) up the steep slopes of Lion you in the old town of Ljiang. Hill, from where you can enjoy While inevitably busy with a wonderful view over Lijiang’s tourists, the stroll through old town to 5,000 metre (16,400 the beautifully lit alleyways of feet) tall Jade Dragon Snow Lijiang is always enchanting. Mountain.

p65 Day 4 Day 5 Via the Tiger Leaping Gorgeous scenery Driving Distance & Duration Driving Distance & Duration Gorge to the Edge of Distance: 260 km and glaciers… Distance: 185 km Tibet Duration: 7-8 hours Before your departure, we heritage site, is one of the Duration: 3 hours Today will be your first day The afternoon will be for invite you to visit the Tibetan few truly wild places left in of driving in the countryside driving lovers as we ascend Elevation home of a family which we China. Nearly all of the world’s Elevation species of rhododendron of northwest Yunnan. from 1,800m to 3,300m in a Highest Daytime: 3800m have gotten to know well over Highest Daytime: 4000m matter of a few hours. We the years. We suggest a light originated from this area. Overnight: 3300m Overnight: 3600m You will first drive on a short will drive along one of the snack in their house to taste There are even still a few stretch, newly built highway most beautiful roads we’ve not only yak butter tea and spots where red pandas and that will take you in short order discovered in this part of the Hotel Zanba, but also some of their snow leopards roam free. Hotel Surrounded by snow-capped to the Tiger Leaping Gorge – world (weather permitting)! Songtsam Retreat Hotel, other simply dishes of yak Songtsam Lodge, Deqin (****) one of the deepest gorges in It will be a long day! meat and roast potatoes. It mountains and forested Shangri-La (****) the world! will be a pleasure to talk to the valleys, it is indeed Shangri-La. members of the family about their lives. The scenic drive from Shangri- La to Deqin winds through lush temperate and alpine forests with breath-taking views over the Baima Pass at 4,350 meters. There is a chorten (white stupa) at the pass with many prayer flags placed by the faithful asking for blessings. The Yangtze drainage area lies on one side of the pass and the Mekong on the other. Baima National Reserve, a UNESCO designated world p66 p67 Day 6 You will have a whole day Day 7 Today’s road leads through to explore the area around steep valleys, more often than Exploring the foot Deqin. What might you be in Driving Distance & Duration Onto the ‘Roof of the not following the Mekong river Driving Distance & Duration hills of Meili Snow the mood for? A gentle hike Distance: 0-50 km World’ and into Tibet further and further upstream. Distance: 220 km along lovely mountain trails? If you look carefully, on the Mountain... Duration: 0-2 hours Duration: 5 hours A short driving excursion Shortly after leaving Deqin opposite side of the road, you (Depending on your chosen Deqin is situated at the foot to Feilaisi, a small, but you will enter Tibet and the can see an ancient trail carved of the Meili Snow Mountain charming Tibetan Buddhist activity) countryside quickly gets wilder into the side of the rock… Elevation Range which is remarkable temple? A visit to a Tibetan and more remote. You will which is where the tea horse Highest Daytime: 3880m house for a simple lunch as make a stop at a Catholic caravans travelled. for its impressive chain of Elevation Overnight: 3750m glaciated peaks more than the Tibetans eat it? A stroll Church close to the border Highest Daytime: 3600m 6,000 meters high. At sunrise through the border town where the congregation’s Tonight’s overnight stop is in and sunset, the soft sunlight of Deqin? We will be happy Overnight: 3300m singing is wonderful – many the frontier town of Markham, Hotel illuminates all twenty peaks. to arrange any of these to songs are familiar hymns which has a real wild-west feel Kangsheng Hotel, Markham (**) fill your day with wonderful to it. Hotel sung in Mandarin overlaid with The Meili Snow Mountain memories. haunting Tibetan harmonies Songtsam Lodge, Deqin (****) Range is a sub-range of the and rhythms. Hengduan Mountains which run north to south, marking the boundary between Tibet and Yunnan.

The main peak is Kawagebo, standing at 6,740 meters. Kawagebo is the first of the six most sacred mountains in Tibetan Buddhism. Over 10,000 pilgrims make the 240 kilometer trek around the mountain each year. As of today, none of the major peaks have been scaled. Tibetan Buddhists believe that Great Spirits dwell in the mountains. p69 Day 8 Adventure on the high plateau

Today’s driving distance is relatively short, but the road maybe, depending on the state of recent repairs, rough because it is frequented by trucks. Driving Distance & Duration However, the route and Distance: 160 km the scenery will more than Duration: 5 hours compensate for it: While crossing three high passes Elevation – including the tallest on the Highest Daytime: 4500m trip - Dongdha Mountain Pass Overnight: 3800m at 5,100 metres (16,730ft) - you will get to enjoy amazing views over the Tibetan Highlands of Hotel Eastern Tibet. Zogang Hotel, Zogang (**)

Tonight’s hotel is the most basic on the trip, and one of the very few hotels we use that has only squat toilets - but Zogang is the most remote stop on our journey, and unfortunately there are limited choices in this region of Tibet! p70 p71 Day 9 Day 10

Mountain passes and Driving Distance & Duration Through the Driving Distance & Duration riverside roads… Distance: 250 km spectacular Sundzom Distance: 140 km Duration: 7 hours Valley… Duration: 2.5 - 3 hours On the way from Zogang to elevation (8,860 feet) – a breath- Rawok, you will leave behind taking descent. Once you reach Take an early morning drive out Midui Glacier – hike or take a the G214 national road and the bottom of the descent, you Elevation Elevation to the shore of Lake Rawok to ride on horseback towards the join China’s longest such road will find yourself by the side of Highest Daytime: 4800m watch sunrise, before returning glacier before taking a break for Highest Daytime: 3000m – the G318, which winds from another one of China’s mighty Overnight: 3930m to the hotel for a leisurely a picnic lunch. Overnight: rivers, the Salween which flows 2740m Shanghai all the way to the breakfast. Mount Everest Base Camp. This from its source in south After lunch it’s a short but road will take you up the Mount toward Myanmar. Hotel Hotel After a short drive through the beautiful drive towards Pomi, Yela Pass – just over 4,600 Blue Lake Inn, Rawok (***) main Sundzom Valley you will your overnight stop. Shenying Hotel, Pomi (***) At the end of the day, you will metres (15,090 feet). Although turn off the main road into a side arrive at tiny Rawok on the this isn’t the highest pass of the valley to explore the area around trip, it is made the most exciting shore of Lake Rawok, a lovely by the spectacular descent alpine lake fed by nearby through seventy-two hairpin glaciers. turns down to 2,700 metres

p72 p73 Day 11 improves dramatically and the Day 12 road turns towards some of the The road to Lhasa – most beautiful landscape of the Driving Distance & Duration Arriving in Lhasa at Driving Distance & Duration the best and worst of entire journey. On a clear day, Distance: 230 km last! Distance: 400 km as you cross the 4,560 metre the G318 Duration: 5.5 - 6 hours Duration: 8 hours Serkym-La Pass, you will be The drive from Bayi to Lhasa rewarded by seeing eastern Today you will experience the is long, but all on good roads, Tibet’s highest mountain, Elevation Elevation extremes of the G318. and through yet more stunning the 7,700 metre tall Mount Highest Daytime: 4520m countryside. Today you will also Highest Daytime: 5000m Namjagbarwa. After arriving Soon after you leave Pomi the climb the second highest pass in Bayi you can relax from the Overnight: 3000m Overnight: 3650m road narrows and you leave of the trip – the 5,025 metre day’s lows and highs in a good the smooth pavement behind (16,480 feet) Pa-La Pass. hotel and enjoy an excellent Hotel Hotel and the road winds along a dinner. steep hillside. You’ll need to Fujiang Hotel, Bayi (****) Gradually the valley in which Shangri-La Hotel, Lhasa (*****) take this short section of road the G318 runs opens up until slowly before the road condition you arrive in Lhasa, where you will wonder at the sight of the Tibetan capital – not least because you have driven here all the way on your own! In the evening enjoy a delicious Tibetan meal and evening dance performance together, or a well-earned drink in an atmospheric bar.

p74 p75 Day 13 Life must go on, or continue? Some of you will have to fly home today because life must go on. On the other hand, if you can spare an extra day or two, why not stay on to explore Lhasa’s old city – a warren of prayer- wheel workshops, pool halls and teahouses (why not stop Driving Distance & Duration and try some yak butter tea?), Distance: NA to join the scores of pilgrims Duration: NA waiting to worship at the holiest shrine of Tibetan Buddhism – the goldenroofed Jokhang – and of Elevation course, to make time to visit the Highest Daytime: 3650m iconic . Lhasa is also a wonderful place to just sit and watch the world go by. However you spend it, an extra day or two would be a fitting end to your amazing journey. If you have yet more time, well, why not extend your trip to the Mount Everest Base Camp by joining our “Roads on the Roof of the World” journey? Whatever you choose to do, we will be here to help you make the arrangements. p77 Choice of Cars

We include in the package price end, the mood of journeys in an SUV we procure from Avis this region, no matter how or Hertz or another reputable comfortable or even luxurious car rental company. Most of the night’s hotel may be. the SUVs are Toyotas, but on occasion Mitsubishis or other What’s more, they offer brands may also make an sufficient clearance when appearance. required and thus add a sense of safety and all-round ability. We wish the car rental markets (4-wheel drive capability is of China would be more hardly needed in China these developed and we could give days since all roads are either you more choice, but this is not very well-paved or, with good so: since we want to provide gravel, offer solid support.) well-maintained and well- insured cars, the choice is And so SUVs from reputable rather limited. brands are our car of choice!

But SUVs are in fact the right choice for driving journeys in this part of the world because they are spacious enough to accommodate a lot of luggage, ANY car, photography equipment, and as long as good-and-bad-weather gear. Also, they reinforce the feeling it is an SUV” of adventure, exploration and discovery…which is, in the p78 p79 Adventures and Discoveries in Local Cuisines

While this itinerary is not one of Wine and beer is always our ‘Foodie’-themed journeys, included in our meals for you we do believe that each one of to enjoy. (When we travel into our journeys should introduce high-altitude, we suggest you not only to hidden gems of moderation!) cultural and scenic beauty, but that sampling local cuisines is Finally, if you have special also a must. dietary requirements are particularly interested in the Wherever you travel with us, culinary aspect of one of our we will order, with very few journeys, please let us know. exceptions, dishes fresh and on location with an emphasis For private journeys, we can, on local produce. It is not of course, tailor the meal uncommon for our guides to experience to your taste (and venture into the kitchen to pick budget). this, that or the other vegetable and to ask the cook to prepare them in the finest possible way. (On occasion we do preorder a meal: this will normally be the case only for special occasions!)

p80 What’s Included / Best Months to Go...

Generally speaking, our journey packages and • Travel Insurance – 24-hour medical prices are all-inclusive. Once you’ve paid and assistance, evacuation and repatriation you arrive at the starting point, you really won’t emergency service have to take out your wallet again. • Tips & Entrance Fees – basic tips and • Cars – a modern SUV is provided for all entrance fees for jointly attended activities are driving days, expertly maintained and included serviced by Avis, Hertz, or other reputable • Activities, Meals, Transport during ‘free times’ car rental companies, and covered by the as indicated in this Journey Dossier best insurance available, and hire car return from Lhasa to Kunming is also included • Top-up Collision Damage Waiver insurance

• International Journey Host, Guide and Support Vehicle – you will be accompanied by a registered Chinese tour guide, an On the What’s Not Included Road in China host and a fully equipped The only items not included are your flights to lead car with a local support driver Kunming and back from Lhasa, your China visa, • Routes – we provide an extensively researched and personal purchases (e.g., gifts, souvenirs). and carefully designed itinerary and state-of- the-art satellite navigation system with a pre- • Airport Transfers – all airport transfers are included on all driving days, as are drinks. programmed route for the journey. You will included Meals on non-driving days as specified above. also receive a detailed pre-departure pack Prepare for a culinary adventure! and route book for the journey • Permits and Logistics – all Tibet permits are included • Goodies – you will enjoy an On the Road Home- • Driving License – You will need a temporary Away-from-Home Kit containing wet towels, Chinese driving license for which all • Hotels – the best available or five-star anti-bacterial gel and basic toiletries, and a daily picnic basket containing fresh fruit, fruit arrangements and fees are included. accommodation is included in each overnight stop juice, water, and a mixture of sweets and nibbles • Fuel & Tolls – we provide petrol for the car • Meals – breakfast (a choice of Western and throughout the journey and pay all tolls Local is provided), and lunch and dinner are • Other Essentials – we provide each car with walky-talkies p82 p83p83 Photo Credits

© Andy - page 33 © Jo James – page 49 © Mareen Windisch – page 61 © Mel – page 76 © Peter Schindler – pages 3, 4, 8, 10, 13, 15, 17, 23, 25, 35, 37, 41, 43, 45, 47, 55, 57, 59, 62, 65, 66, 67, 70, 71, 72, 73(top), 80, 82 © Ron Yue – Front & back cover, pages 19, 21, 27, 29, 31, 39, 51, 63, 68, 69, 73(bottom), 74, 85 Unknown - pages 53, 78-79,

p84 p85 Contact Us

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