EXPEDITION CRUISING: to the POLES and BEYOND by Liz Gammon Independent Cruise Consultant Written May 2020

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EXPEDITION CRUISING: TO THE POLES AND BEYOND By Liz Gammon Independent Cruise Consultant Written May 2020

www.seatrade-cruise.com INDEX

3. Foreword

4. Introduction

5. Great Influencers | Past and Present

6. From Russia with Love

9. Future Focus | The First Expedition World Cruise

11. Facts and Figures | Ships and Operators

It is important to note that this report focuses on the Arctic and Antarctic. This report does not cover any river or exotic expedition cruising activity. This report was researched and written in Q1 2020 and published in May 2020

www.seatrade-cruise.com FOREWORD

The mission of compiling and I was also intrigued to learn that with his day. The passengers and crew, researching this overview has been Victorian Ladies were great fans of having long scarpered back to the much like an expedition in itself. Arctic cruising – so great in fact that vessel to watch the unforgettable, if A journey of enlightenment and independent lady travellers were not slightly bizarre, spectacle unfold. discovery that has left me with awarded their own 12 berth cabin an even deeper sense of awe and onboard the 142 berth St Sunniva for The great Russian Captain, Petr wonder about this specialised and the 1888 season. That’s 8.45% of the Gorlikov who delighted in taking environmentally sensitive sector of the total capacity. Such was demand! his passengers to some of the most cruise industry. remote areas of the Arctic and Every era has been dealt its own set of Antarctic – setting new records in the To say that I have enjoyed the challenges. The war years, the interwar process and providing his guests with challenge, is an understatement, for I years, the introduction of the airplane, wonderful lifelong memories. He is have loved every minute of it. financial crashes and climate changes. fondly remembered as a formidable But the pioneering spirit that fuelled after-dinner host, leading mentor and Upon starting out, it became apparent expedition cruising in the first place, Ice Master Extraordinaire! that in order to make any sense of the has burned brightly throughout. Those present, and indeed the future, I first that craved adventure would find it. What wonderful legacies these great needed to dig into the past. And find it they did. explorers have bequeathed us. It is now over to today’s itinerary planners And so, dig I did, unveiling a vibrant Take Lars-Eric Lindblad, the and expedition leaders to take the history of passion and adventure, high explorer, entrepreneur and noted batten and set a new course for jinks and determination. environmentalist who pioneered expedition cruising. tourism to many remote and exotic I love the fact that the very first Arctic parts of the world. Inspiring so many They too will leave a ripple of legacies in expedition cruise was an independent new explorers to follow their dreams their wake and face their own challenges charter organised by an art collector and discover this wonderful world as they sail into the unknown. and an American artist. for themselves. New ships, new itineraries, new William Bradford (1823-1892) dreamt And the stories... the barbeque on an explorations, new experiences and of painting the Arctic. He had seen ice flow that attracted a curious Polar new responsibilities – matched with pictures and vowed to experience Bear, who, having taken full advantage the old adage of exploring responsibly this sight for himself. The light, the of the fine steak on offer and washing and with purpose. landscapes, the icebergs, the silence… it down with a bucket of Coca-Cola, Google him, his work is spectacular! slipped away and continued quietly Let the voyage begin!

www.seatrade-cruise.com 3 INTRODUCTION

Expedition cruising is without doubt Not only is this an exciting As an example, page 9. discusses the fastest growing sector of the predication, but there are those that Silversea Cruises’ first ever 167-day cruise industry. might argue that such unprecedented Expedition World Cruise and the growth might add a rather unhealthy opportunities created as a result of this More than 39 new ice-classed, burden to what some describe as an new worldwide overview of expedition expedition vessels are set to enter the already crowded arena. (Noting that cruising. market within the next three years. tourist vessels are but one of several contributing factors.) An indication that there is every reason A majority of these vessels will carry to get excited and involved in learning less than 300 passengers and range in Another factor to consider is that more about this aptly nicknamed ‘last size from 5,590 GRT 1 to an incredible climate change has now ensured the frontier of cruise holiday development’. 30,000 GRT 2. Northwest and Northeast Passages are even more open to navigation in the 1 Oceanwide Expeditions - Hondius At the time of writing it is estimated Arctic summer months. 2 Compagnie du Ponant - Le Commandant Charcot that there are currently around 57 expedition vessels in operation – Hence the need for more destinations sailing predominantly in the Arctic and and ports outside of the Polar regions Antarctic regions. If we add on the to become actively involved in anticipated orderbook numbers, this showcasing what they have to offer brings the total number up to 96. this growing sector.

USHUAIA, ARGENTINA TO TROMSØ, NORWAY

240 passengers 167days

10 routes

30 countries

4 (correct 1.1.20) GREAT INFLUENCERS | PAST AND PRESENT

The story of Arctic expedition Lindblad chartered the 56 passenger, In 1989 he was promoted to Master cruising essentially begins in 1869 Argentine supply ship Lapataia for of the Kapitan Khlebnikov, one of with American artist, William the 1965/66 season. The trip had Russia’s most powerful diesel-electric Bradford’s cruise to Greenland in the a strong scientific focus which was icebreakers and shortly thereafter Newfoundland sealer, Panther. This to be the trademark of all Lindblad began a 30-year collaboration with was followed a few years later by cruises and was a resounding Quark Expeditions. Thomas Cook’s North Cape cruise in success, however, ongoing charter the President Christie in 1875. challenges eventually led to Eric-Lars Alongside many other great Lindblad’s decision to build his own achievements, Captain Golikov And whilst Antarctica has research ship, the Lindblad Explorer. commanded two complete stations that date back to 1957, cruise circumnavigations of Antarctica, one tourism in Antarctica is a relatively Alongside sailing Antarctica, the ship of which was the first-ever passenger new phenomenon. also embarked on Arctic cruises and voyage in 1996 with Quark Expeditions. in August 1972 Lindblad Explorer He also commanded numerous It wasn’t until the arrival of the 2,398 managed to get to 82°N, a record at voyages into the uncharted waters of GRT Lindblad Explorer in 1969 the time for a cruise ship. both the Ross and Weddell Seas. that things really changed, and the Lindblad Prototype arrived on the Lars-Eric Lindblad went on to establish In the Arctic region Golikov frequently scene, all thanks to the travel visionary, Creative Travel and died in 1994, but transited the Northwest Passage (six Lars-Eric Lindblad. his son Sven-Olof still continues the times), led the first ever expedition to family tradition today having founded the geo-magnetic North Pole, and the Lars-Eric Lindblad is said to have been in Lindblad Expeditions Inc. in 1979. first ever passenger circumnavigation Outer Mongolia acting as tour leader for of the Arctic Ocean. Throughout these a group of adventurous tourists, when, Another of expedition cruising’s great passenger voyages he assisted many somewhat under the influence of a influencers is the renowned polar nations – bringing staff and supplies to potent, fermented local brew, Koumiss, explorer and icebreaker Captain remote scientific outposts, and always he was asked where his next trip would Petr Golikov. ready to assist in any way needed. be.. he consulted a Pan America World Airways map to see where they did Born in Vladivostok, Russia, Golikov Captain Golikov passed away not go and noted that Antarctica graduated from the Far Eastern April 15th, 2020. was not even on the map – he Marine Academy in 1970 and began decided there and then that his remarkable career as a junior What wonderful this was to be his next officer with the Far Eastern Shipping legacies these trail destination. Antarctica. Company (FESCO). blazers leave!

www.seatrade-cruise.com 5 FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

Captain Golikov also features in this coincided with the crumbling of the These research, and the small ice-class next instalment. Soviet Union. passenger ships, formed the backbone of the emerging polar expedition fleet. For he, along with his fellow FESCO Coincidentally, there had been an Captain colleagues of the time, ongoing surge in the building of They came complete with competent suddenly found themselves catapulted research and oceanography ships crews that understood navigating into a new working environment – during the 80s. in ice, had acceptable, if basic, one with a completely new set of accommodation and charter rates responsibilities and duties. Passengers! Almost all of the ships built in Finland, were very reasonable. had facilities for 50-100 scientists and It can not be stressed enough how came with varying degrees of comfort. The importance of these Russian ships in great an impact the political reform the development of expedition cruising in Russia during the 1980s had on Not just that, but all had at least can be appreciated from the fact that expedition cruising. nominal ice-strengthening, whilst prior to their availability from about 1991 others were true icebreakers. onwards, there were only three small A short history lesson and timeline ships cruising in polar regions; the Illiria, reveals why. The Berlin Wall fell on November built in 1962; Lindblad Explorer built in 9th, 1989 and the accelerating 1969; and World Discoverer, built 1975. Mikhail Gorbachev opened Pandora’s deterioration of the Soviet Bloc Box in 1985 with his policy of Glasnost was effectively complete by 26th Two companies, Quark and Marine (loosely translated as transparency). December 1991. Expeditions, were early adopters of the Russian research ships for polar cruising. His reforms, along with After the collapse of the Bloc, the growth in Soviet passenger research ships became available, Quark Expeditions is applauded for and research shipping primarily for charter, but later for pioneering North Pole cruises with in the 1980s, outright sale in some cases. Russian icebreakers.

www.seatrade-cruise.com 6 EARLY HISTORY OF EXPEDITION CRUISE

American artist, William Bradford’s 1869 cruise to Greenland in the Newfoundland sealer, Panther

Thomas Cook’s North Cape cruise in the 1875 President Christie

Antarctica Research 1957 Stations established

Illiria built for Adriatica line 1962

Lars-Eric Lindblad chartered the 1965 Argentine supply ship Lapataia this 1966 season for research trip to Antarctica

Lindblad Explorer built 1969

7 Captain Petr Golikov graduates from Far Eastern Marine Academy 1970 and joins Far Eastern Shipping Company (FESCO) as junior officer

Lindblad Explorer sets record of 82*N 1972

1975 World Discoverer built

Lindblad Expeditions Inc. 1979 founded

Mikhail Gorbachev introduced 1985 policy of Glasnost

Captain Petr Golikov is promoted 1989 to Master of the Kapitan Khlebnikov

Captain Petr Golikov commands first ever passenger voyage 1996 circumnavigating the Antarctica with Quark Expeditions www.seatrade-cruise.comwww.seatrade-cruise.com 58 FUTURE FOCUS | THE UNCHARTERED WORLD TOUR

Silversea’s 2021 uncharted World Tour is a genuine concern that the tried historical roots. Tastes and stories. marks the beginning of worldwide and tested polar routes will become Authenticity and originality. expedition cruising. congested. Traditionally, most expedition cruise A wonderful first. A new adventure and As will some of the river routes lines operate rather differently a new way of thinking. Dispelling, in favoured by expeditions cruises to the more mainstream one swoop, the rumour that expedition such as the Amazon and Mekong. cruise lines in that they cruising only applies to polar regions – Sustainability is key in managing this tend to run the majority namely the Arctic and Antarctic. growth effectively, which explains of their excursions why itinerary planners are actively independently Silver Cloud will sail with 240 seeking new ideas and mapping out and via their own passengers from Ushuaia, Argentina to new routes the world over. This is expedition teams. Tromsø, Norway on a voyage that will exactly why destinations and tour take 167 days, navigate 10 routes and operators are encouraged to rethink Preferring to come ashore visit 30 countries. the typical cruise product and create and explore via their own new experiences with the expedition landing craft. Often not even a pier One day visiting a landmark port, the market in mind. or harbour is required for landing. next snaking up a river in search of rare birdlife. Expedition cruises are known for their This obviously changes from region focus on nature, geology, history, to region and from line to line and it is It is not in the expedition cruise wildlife, birdlife and marine mammals. worth noting that there are still good operators’ interest to overcrowd the Cultural experiences that reflect a opportunities to be found in the form destinations that they visit, and there region or destination’s cultural and of pre and post cruise options.

www.seatrade-cruise.com 9 Ships’ expedition leaders and teams really is the basic kit for all expedition as helicopter and submarine touring, are responsible for the running of cruise ships. come at an additional price. Some expeditions and zodiac landings companies also charge an additional fee ashore. These teams are typically Some of the new luxury builds for zodiacs and kayaking so it’s always made up of historians, geologists, also boast helicopters, submarines, good to check the small print! scientists, experts in marine mammals, remotely operated vehicles (ROVs) local cultures etc. and aqua bikes. The expedition sector is destined to see enormous growth over the next few Almost all expedition vessels carry Worth noting is that, whist almost all years with an impressive number of new large inflatable landing craft (zodiacs) companies include zodiac landings and builds expected to join the existing fleet used for exploring and remote touring in the ticket price, not all do and by the end of 2023-39 at the time of landings – along with kayaks. This some of the high-end experiences such writing (3 May 2020).

www.seatrade-cruise.com 10 FACTS AND FIGURES | SHIPS AND OPERATORS

If anyone reading this has already Group A those that own and operate selected ships (quite often the name of tried to make sense of the expedition their own ships. the ship is not mentioned.) These are market, it is hardly any wonder that not included in the tables below. they might have come away scratching Group B those that charter the ship their heads! (paying the owner for the ship and the There are also quite a number of operating crew but using their own operators who offer mega yacht and Because no matter how it is set up, it is guides and staff.) yacht style cruises to regions favoured complicated. by expedition cruise operators. Group C those that charter, and part Today’s expedition operators are made own the ships. These are typically 25 passengers up of several groups and, on occasion, or less and are not included in the these groups overlap – which is why Group D those that advertise following tables. ships might be mentioned twice. expedition cruises and sell groups onto

Bibliography: With special thanks to Christopher Wright, Of Penguins and Polar Bears, A history of cold-water cruising.

www.seatrade-cruise.com 11 ANTARCTIC 2020/21 SEASON Correct 1/1/2020 Company | Operator Ship(s) newbuilds included Abercrombie and Kent Le Lyrial Albatros Travel Ocean Atlantic | Ocean Victory (2021) | Ocean Albatros (2022) Antarpply Expeditions Ushuaia Antarctica XXI SA Ocean Nova Aurora Expeditions Polar Pioneer | Greg Mortimer | Sylvia Earl (2021) Bark Europa Europa G Adventures Expedition Grand Circle Corporation Corinthian Hapag Lloyd Bremen | Hanseatic Nature | Hanseatic Spirit (2021) Heritage Expeditions Akademik Sholalskiy | Spirit of Enderby Hurtigruten Fram | Spitzbergen | Roald Amundsen | Fridjof Nansen (2020) Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic Explorer | National Geographic Orion | National Geographic Endurance | National Geographic Resolution (2021) Noble Caledonia Island Sky | Caledonia Sky | Hebridean Sky Oceanwide Expeditions Ortelius, Plancius Plantours Kreuzfharten Hamburg Ponant Le Boreal | Le Soleal | L’Austral | Le Bellot (2020) | Le Commandant Charcot (2021) | Le Lyrial Polar Latitudes Hebridean Sky | Island Sky Quark Expeditions Island Sky | Ocean Diamond | Ocean Endeavour | Ocean Adventurer Poseidon Expeditions Sea Spirit Seabourn Seabourn Quest | Seabourn Venture (2021) Silversea Cruises Silver Cloud | Silver Explorer Zegrahm Expeditions Island Sky | Caledonia Sky

Bibliography: With special thanks to Christopher Wright, Of Penguins and Polar Bears, A history of cold-water cruising.