EDITORIAL CONTENTS

THE BIGGER THE BETTER When we started to discuss which way Our team went to the ‘slangenpanden’, home we wanted to go with our blogazine, we to the famous and last existing squatters in knew immediately that we wanted to focus , but we also zoomed in on the on Amsterdam. We decided this not only Albert Heijn versus Albert Cuyp competition. because Amsterdam is the most famous city In this blogazine you’ll find photo essays of of the Netherlands, but also because it has small guys competing the big ones. You’ll significant ties to critical urbanism. When we read about similarities, differences but also THE STORY OF were thinking of a city that goes along with about things that might benefit Amsterdam to 4 the themes of infrastructure, gentrification, invest in to be even more successful in the and urbanity that tend to encompass critical future. urbanism, Amsterdam was the first place that popped into our heads. I think this goes to I think our editorial team did a great job show that secretly, even though our editorial shooting, filming and writing about this team consists of five different nationalities, particular, and, in my opinion, very interesting we all do have a little (or BIG) crush on subject. In name of the whole team, we hope ALBERT HEIJN VS ALBERT CUYP Amsterdam. you’ll have as much fun reading and watching our content as we did creating it. 10 When we think of Amsterdam, some of us might think about a big city, with a sizeable So I guess all that is left is to proudly present number of people living there and a lot of David vs. Goliath: Competing with the big large famous companies and shops in it. I on guys. the other hand, think of small exclusive shops in the nine streets and second hand markets. Enjoy! IS AMSTERDAM LOOSING ITS But how do both sides of this large contrast UNDERGROUND SCENE? exist and flourish in Amsterdam? How Anouk Slot are those small vintage shops in the nine 22 Editor in chief streets competing with the big stores in the Kalverstraat? How do the small individual food stalls in Albert Cuyp Market compete with a chain supermarket such as Albert Heijn? And what about the music scene in Amsterdam, how is the underground scene competing with the big guys? Or even, does Amsterdam still A SMALL LOOK INTO AN UNDERGROUND have an underground scene at all? Can one survive without the other? Or are all of the TRAVELLING ART EXHIBITION above mentioned ‘small’ competitors already 28 too mainstream to still call them small or disadvantaged? We dived right into it and tried to find answers to all of these David vs. Goliath questions.

EDITOR IN CHIEF ART DIRECTION MELANIE HAZENBERG RICK LUGTENBERG ANOUK SLOT LUKAS WALTER MERIJN KRAMER IRA HOEFSMID DE MAAGD EN DE LEEUW MELANIE HAZENBERG RICK LUGTENBERG NOELLE BATELAAN 38 EDITOR DORRI MANG REPORTERS PHOTOGRAPHERS & VIDEO TUGCE DURMUS KIM VERCAMMEN THE STORY OF SQUATTING FEATURE STORY DAVID VS GOLIATH 1983; the year when squatting began

By: Tugce Durmus & Melanie Hazenberg

It is 1983; the year when Michael Jackson dominates the Billboard Charts, Western political leaders still wear brown suits and empty houses dominate The Netherlands. Especially in the city of Amsterdam, there are more empty houses than there are occupied ones. The big house behind the Dam Square on Spuistraat 199 is one of these famous empty buildings. Unfortunately in 1983, the government decided there could no longer be any more empty houses. Despite this, a few groups of creative people squatted the building on Spuistraat 199 and made it into their own creative home.

De Slang Throughout the 1980’s and 1990’s, Spuistraat De Slang is the official name of Amsterdam. 199, or De Slang, was of the yellow four-story Unfortunately, they known as an artistic building located at Spuistraat had to leave. But building recognized by its 199 in the Tabak row. This the government distinguishable snake mural. building, which eventually offered all of them Not only was it a famous became the Snakehouse, other places to live”. building in Amsterdam, but was one of the most also a hub for creativity: famous buildings occupied the place to be if you were by squatters in 1983. The "A snake as wall an aspiring artist. Because Tabak row is a cluster of painting means that of the huge snake mural squats running all the decorating the side of the way down this street. The the snake surrounds building, Spuistraat 199 Snakehouse rapidly shaped quickly earned the nickname, into a welcoming hotspot the building and “The Snakehouse”. of creativity for the ten will defend it for Inspiration covered the walls, residents who lived there. and artists from all over the They created an exhibition everything that will Netherlands flocked to it. place on the ground-floor and invited people to visit happen“ Fast forward to 2016. Noisy their film nights and theatre sounds, less people and performances. Jan Visser only a few tourists walk has been a neighbour to De by, giving you the feeling Slang for the last 40 years. that Spuistraat 199 is no His comment was simple. longer one of the most He stated, “the squatters budding culture buildings were always nice and open- of Amsterdam. In fact, the minded. It was really great Snakehouse has all but that Spuistraat 199 could dissapeared. be the cultural hotspot 6 7 DAVID VS GOLIATH

The artists of the Snakehouse

The artists of the necessary to go back to going to the police to inform that period they also had to Snakehouse Jacques van the beginning: the 1960’s. them that they were going to stop the restoration once, Heuven, a famous Dutch Economic crisis had hit be living there. Afterwards, because they found something painter, was one of the first Amsterdam, and conditions the police would come for an really old, I think it was a squatters. There were many became increasingly inspection. It was only if the bakery . The archaeologists artists in the building similar worsened. By the 1980’s, the owner of the building had an had to come to check the to him. They used the building shortage of accommodations actual plan such as restoring or object. That was really as a living and a working had become enormous. renting, that the squatters had interesting. Now they are still space. The Snakehouse Large amounts people to leave. In the past, owners of building the apartments and I was also the perfect place to were displaced and had the Snakehouse tried to kick hope they will stay forever so hold art exhibitions, making it troubles finding places to live. out the squatters by acting on there are no longer problems possible for visitors to come Ironically, there were many this legal procedure, but they with this building”. by and see what the artists unused buildings left to rot, could not show the real proof had made. Another of the first so people decided to move or an actual plan for action, so Future squatters was Guy Pinhas, into these buildings. De Slang squatters won out the right to who was a photographer quickly became one of the remain. But in 2010, everything Nowadays, De Key, which is and a musician. Guy often most famous buildings to be changed. Squatting became a social housing company, gave photo exhibitions in squatted in during this period. illegal in The Netherlands. is the owner of the whole the Snakehouse in order Jan Visser remembers, “in block around Spuistraat and to make his work visible to the 1980’s squatters came to Wijdesteeg. The company the rest of the country, and the snakehouse and decided Evacuation period wants to construct luxury was incredibly successful. to live in this house. I think apartments, shops, office- In the same fashion, Patries living in the snakehouse was The family de Graaf has been spaces and private parking. van Elsen painted the iconic the right thing to do. In this selling coins in the street Sadly, soon all that remains of snake on the side of the way they could have a proper behind Spuistraat since the De Slang will only be what you building, gaining prominence, place to live”. Since then, 1970’s. They saw everything can see in archives, pictures and in a way, doing her best more than 20,000 people that happened during that time. and stories. to protect the artist colony squatted in buildings across “When the squatters had to go from what unbeknownst to Amsterdam. The movement out there were a lot of protests her, was about to unfold. had been increasingly growing and demonstrations. It was "“The government offered all For Patries, “the symbol of since the 1960’s as an attempt a mess. Most of the time the of them other places to live“ a snake is creativity and to dissipate the housing squatters listened to the police freedom. A snake as a wall shortage. According to Visser, and went out of the building, painting means that the snake embarrassingly, “there were but sometimes they didn’t surrounds the building and will a lot of queues of homeless listen and the clashes between De Slangenpand is defend it for everything that people whilst houses were the police and the squatters now under construction. will happen”. boarded up”. began. It was a big mess Nowadays it looks like Up until recently, squatters during the evacuation period”. this instead of a beautiful were allowed to stay if the The coin sellers continued, building. Back to the beginning building had been empty for “When the squatters were at least one year. They just gone the restorations of the In order to understand needed to follow a normal building began. The contractor the story of squatting, it is procedure, which included made a sports center. During 8 9 DAVID VS GOLIATH

Albert Cuyp and Albert Heijn may have a first name in common, but to some, their similarities end there. While Albert Heijn is a large Dutch supermarket ALBERT HEIJN chain store that can be found on just about every corner, Albert Cuyp is a market made up of smaller businesses gathering together to create a street full of local shops. In a market that is predominantly controlled by large VS chain stores such as the Albert Heijn, how do small businesses stay afloat?

ALBERT CUYP he Albert Cuyp is the By: Rick Lugtenberg & Kim Vercammen T largest daily market in all of Europe. Holding 260 stalls, this famous food market is located in the Pipe, a hip and trending scene in Amsterdam near to the Heineken Experience and the Rijksmuseum.

It’s no surprise that our society’s perspective on food is changing- local markets and fair trade are trending again. While this may be enough to attract a few more buyers than usual to smaller businesses, the shops in Albert Cuyp still have to fight for survival.

The Albert Cuyp has been open since 1905, and utilizes the charm of local business to its advantage. Locals and tourists alike mull about the market, which is open from 9:00- 17:00 Monday-Saturday.

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On the other hand, Albert Cuyp has products that you won’t find in a supermarket. Ornate signs and decadent smells draw you in and you find yourself sampling new things and being invested in products that you would not have put on your grocery list. Few people can deny themselves a freshly made hot dog with Dutch sauce that has HERRING just been prepared in front of them.

Few people can deny themselves a freshly made hot dog with hollandaise sauce that has just been prepared in front of them.

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FLOWERS DAVID VS GOLIATH

Flowers are a significant part of the culture in Amsterdam. Both Albert Heijn and Albert Cuyp know this, and take distinctive approaches to the economy of need.

Albert Heijn presents their flowers at the entrance. There is a limited variety, but if you are stuck in a pinch, they are very easy to access. This is another way that Albert Heijn caters to the idea of a one-stop-shop kind of customer. If you need toilet paper, some dinner, and some flowers to bring home, you can get it all in one place: the Albert Heijn.

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CHEESE

Dutch people love cheese (correction, everyone loves cheese). But for generations, the Netherlands are well known for showing the rest of the world how good cheese is done.

Albert Cuyp’s variety plays on the seller’s cheese knowledge and ability to interact with the customer. The buyer at the Albert Cuyp has the ability to try multiple types of cheeses and get advice on what cheese to buy to pair with what they are cooking for dinner.

Albert Heijn takes the standard packaged cheese approach, selling a variety of rounds, wedges, and slices. 16 17 DAVID VS GOLIATH

If you want to buy a take-away The range of take away drinks at the Albert drink at Albert Heijn you could Cuyp is limited, but expands into options like say there are too many choices. freshly made smoothies, “California smoothies” This shows the typical luxury of and coffees. By offering drinks that would a European country. The range take effort for people to acquire elsewhere, of take away drinks at the Albert DRINKS the Albert Cuyp draws in a niche audience Cuyp is limited. that wants luxurious beverages, but perhaps doesn’t have all the ingredients and tools, or the time to make them.

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The Albert Heijn takes a casual approach to selling the waffles, assuming SYRUP WAFFELS that if people want them, they will seek them out. Also, availability of packaged stroopwafel is not something that will necessarily draw in locals, because they can be purchased close to anywhere. So their home is next to all the other biscuits, where they don’t necessarily stand out.

CONCLUSION

People prioritize different individual decisions made by the things when buying food: consumer, oftentimes, larger some budget shop because the corporations have the upper At Albert Cuyp there are a few stands that offer only syrup waffles, and often amount of money they spend on hand automatically. Therefore, make them from scratch. The market emphasizes the fact that they specialize in the food is most important, others in order to remain relevant in art of the stroopwafel, and pretty much everyone agrees. “If you have not tried a focus on the availability of fair a world full of easily accessible fresh stroopwafel made from scratch at the Albert Cuyp, you are missing out on a trade and organic products, Albert Heijns, the owners of little slice of heaven” –Everyone who has ever eaten fresh stroopwafel at Albert Cuyp. and finally, there are those shops at the Albert Cuyp need that grocery shop with pure to be cognizant of all of these convenience in mind. This distinctions, and take advantage may include proximity, easy to of as many as they can to take prepare meals, or places with a priority in the market. And from wide variety of food available. what I saw? They’re doing a While all of these things are pretty good job of it. FEATURE STORY DAVID VS GOLIATH IS AMSTERDAM LOOSING ITS UNDERGROUND SCENE?

By: Merijn Kramer & Rick Lugtenberg In London the nightlife nightlife is slowly falling are small underground alternative cultures that is struggling. Rent is into decay. Nowadays, venues like OCCII and consider themselves

continuously going up it is commonplace for OT301 surviving the different from the OT301 is a project that started in 1999 when artists and small clubs seem to the Internet to be the competition with bigger mainstream. Growing from squatted the building. They squatted the building be struggling to pay and main medium for music clubs and venues like the the punk-mentality in the to create a new platform where artists could simultaneously attract streams and mainstream , club Escape 70’s, the underground live, work together and could work on a public large crowds. This has popularity of artists. and club Air? We asked was an idealistic creative programming that offers a stage to ‘experimental’, led to an increasingly Which has led to a fusion around in the underground community that took ‘new’ and ‘allternative’ art in every form. The enormous amount of of underground culture scene of Amsterdam to on the battle with the building currently is home to 24 members who are clubs shutting their doors. and the mainstream, answer these questions. mainstream. Back then, responsible for keeping the vision and purpose of Unfortunately, London’s thereby causing the disco and pop-music were the building alive. it is located at the Overtoom, underground culture to all What is the underground thriving and conquering which makes it one of the main-venues in the but completely dissipate. radiostations, concert underground-scene of Amsterdam. The real question is, is scene? halls, and dance clubs. the underground scene of Punk-music was the angry Amsterdam also suffering The underground scene culture that came from this disparaging fate? How is a term for describing discontent about the 22 23 FEATURE STORY DAVID VS GOLIATH

future. A financial crisis because of it’s Sjoerd says that it seems in Amsterdam. The and the clubs in the caused young people to commercialized meaning. that the mentality of the small club and venue city. According to the be pessimistic and search He says that underground citizens of Amsterdam has De Vondelbunker is an organization, they are to for groups that were used to be a movement changed. ‘’The initiatives excellent example of that. be a rebel force that gives likeminded. This is where against the mainstream, should come from the advice to the mayor of the the underground grew and now, unfortunately, people, from the bottom- city and his counsellors. from. underground is becoming up. In the 80’s, people ‘’If people want to visit a The organisation also hosts mainstream. Sjoerd used seemed to be more certain place, they probably a couple sporadic events in Most of the popular cultural to be a Techno-DJ, but involved and participatory the city. music-styles grew from those years have past. in initiatives. People will’’ underground generations. Now he has a family and is got on the streets and They also think that it Hip-hop, rap and punk slightly less rebellious than organized a lot more often Ivo from OT301 doesn’t would be in the best started in the basements he used to be. to battle the status-quo. mind the competition practice for Amsterdam to of the late 70’s and house Unfortunately now, we’ve in the city and peoples appoint an official night started in the 90’s. In Amsterdam’s underground entered an age where mentalities, stating, ’I think mayor of the city who short, the underground people seem less willing or there is no competition stands for interests of scene has been the home culture able to do that. Nowadays, going with mainstream night life in cities. At this of creativity and art, and Amsterdam is like a well venues in Amsterdam. moment, several French the brewer of new music Sjoerd has a very strong organized commercial If people want to visit a cities like Paris, Toulouse styles through all the opinion about Amsterdam’s organization. Civil servants certain place, they probably and Nantes have already ages. The underground underground culture are managers. Amsterdam will. Every year new clubs begun appointing night scene also brought forth dissapearing, stating, “the is attempting to be the get opened, they get hyped mayors. bands like The Clash, underground scene has cultural capital of Europe, for some time and then the Grandmaster Flash And already disappeared! When but they only support hype fades. After that they The current night mayor The Furious Five, Nirvana I look at the club scene, for the big boys like MTV. By become mainstream or of Amsterdam, Mirik Milan, and, of course, the huge example, it is all run by the attracting large companies they close. I especially try was able to pass a 24 popularity EDM-DJ’s, house same entrepreneurs.” This like these, gentrification to keep OT301 out of the hours license for several and techno. It is easy to is creating a monoculture. will follow. This leads to a mainstream, so it does not clubs, allowing them to trace the underground Now it doesn‘t matter monoculture and also into get too busy and people stay open as long as they throughout the whole of anymore if you go to De the homogeneity in the won’t grow tired of us’’. Ivo want. However, this license the music industry since School or Radion, they all programs of all mainstream works as a PR-officer for is only given to clubs that the 70’s. more or less have the same venues in Amsterdam. OT301. thrive in the city’s night program. And often, they Which eventually could life, which means that most ‘’Underground, nowadays, is all spin the same music. lead to the disapearing of The Future of Amsterdam of them are ruling in the For example, the former small alternative clubs.” mainstream. If this is the just a label for marketing’’ founders of club Trouw On a side note, Sjoerd nightlife case, is it possible for the now organize De School, says that the monoculture underground to also take According to Sjoerd and they run it in the same doesn’t mean there is Nachtburgemeester profit in the achievements Stolk who works for way and style as they did no underground scene Amsterdam is a foundation of night mayor? Unless OCCII, “underground, at club Trouw, making the at all. There will always that has been brought to Milan starts focusing his nowadays, is just a label two fairly indestinguishable be at least a small layer life to stimulate the night attention on growing the for marketing”. He doesn‘t beyond the names. of creatives beneath life in Amsterdam. They underground, and giving like the term ‘underground’ the surface, even here take part in an active privilege to smaller clubs dialogue between the city and venues, the answer council of Amsterdam will continue to be no.

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Sjoerd of OCCII is sceptical Explanation Box OCCII about the Night Mayor and other initiatives. They are not involved OCCII is located in the in the underground project. building “de Binnenpret.” “The 24 hour licence is just for This building host all kind a small group, and stimulating of political and cultural the night life might be already organizations. OCCII stands too late. Besides that, I still for - independent cultural see a lot of regulation. For center In It. In it refers to it‘s example, Curiquesgilde is a squatters history. They are breeding ground in the east of founded in 1984 and they are Amsterdam. They also organize a fully self-sustainable and a lot of club nights, but a new autonomous venue. From residential area ended up construction work to planning, being too close. This led to a everything is in their own maximum decibel rate that was hands. However, everyone decreased tremendously. Being can participate in this project. unable to play loud music meant By creating your own night, that they couldn’t organize OCCII provides a platform club nights anymore. The over for new artists. They create regulation causes new initiatives a podium for the outcast to fail.” artist who doesn‘t fit in the Ivo from OT301 thinks mainstream picture. differently, ‘’It is hard to predict how the underground is going to develop in the future, but I hope that the city will remain diverse in terms of venues.’’

It is good that the Amsterdam’s city council tries to stimulate night life. But it is unclear what they mean by that the phrase, “to stimulate night life”. Is it the mainstream clubs we already see plenty of in Amsterdam, or the more creative venues?

26 27 PHOTO ESSAY DAVID VS GOLIATH A SMALL LOOK INTO AN UNDER- GROUND TRAVELING ART EXHIBITION By: Ira Hoefsmid

On Thursday I got a vague Facebook invite, and by Saturday I was The walls around me in the small student garden are covered in projections, every corner is standing in the midst of it actually happening. While chatting away with some covered in art and text, and it almost seems impossible that this was made in one day. After visitors I overhear that this is the third edition of a so-called „Concrete Exhibition‘‘. further examining the area I came to the realization that there was even more inside! 28 29 PHOTO ESSAY DAVID VS GOLIATH

‘‘We want this expo to be an opportunity for students and makers to be able to present pieces that are not made for school, but are mainly made out of curiosity and playful creativity“

Jannus Doornhegge, one of this year’s organizers (and exhibiters) tells me a bit more about how this festival-like exhibition came to be. „The last edition was in Rotterdam, the one before that was in Eindhoven, and after this year being in Breda, we hope to go to Amsterdam soon‘‘. The fact that this is a traveling exhibition is a very important aspect of this expo for the creators.

Jannus Doornhegge, organizer, video artist and student posing with his work.

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This year, about 21 artists contributed to the festival. This includes both students and graduated artists, in all sorts of disciplines. The exhibition had approximately 250 visitors this year, about twice as much as last year.

32 33 PHOTO ESSAY DAVID VS GOLIATH “BEER IS AN INSPIRATION TO THE WORK AND THIS PHOTO“

Artist Ian WithNoName with his work, Willie the Rabbit, and his AH Lager beer. The expo is bring-your-own-beer and there seems to be plenty.

The whole process of the expo is documented in any way possible. This is mainly because most of the visitors are artists or aspiring artists themselves.

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Ingrid van Sand with her piece ‘‘Clean laundry‘‘. Her work is in the washing room of the student house that is being used for this year’s expo. „I really like the location of these events. This work is inspired by this room, and I could fully make use of the space I wanted.‘‘

Even after the police close down the exhibition due to a few noise complaints, the creators and organizers are positive about this years result.

While doing their best to keep quiet, they make plans for the next one and enjoy some left over beers.

As I go to leave, they invite me to check out their next expo and I thank them. ‘‘All we want is to make stuff and enjoy it, no matter where,“ they say. I think that is what they did today, and will continue to do in the future! 36 37 CLICK HERE VIDEO DE MAAGD EN DE LEEUW