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Goldfields & the Grampians

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Goldfields & the Grampians ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Goldfields & the Grampians Includes ¨ Why Go? Ballarat ............ 203 History, nature and culture combine spectacularly in Victo- Bendigo ............211 ria’s regional heart. For a brief time in the mid-19th century, Goldfields Towns ....217 more than a third of the world’s gold came out of Victoria The Grampians ..... 225 and, today, the spoils of all that precious metal can be seen in the grand regional cities of Bendigo and Ballarat, and the Grampians National charming towns of Castlemaine, Kyneton and Maldon. This Park (Gariwerd) .... 225 is a fantastic region for touring, with a range of contrast- Northwest of the ing landscapes, from pretty countryside and green forests, Grampians ..........231 red earth and granite country, to farmland, orchards and Mt Arapiles State wineries. Park .............. 232 Further west, there’s a different type of history to expe- Little Desert National rience at Grampians National Park, one of Victoria’s great Park & Around ..... 233 natural wonders. Some 80% of Victoria’s Aboriginal rock-art sites are found here, and the majestic ranges are an adven- turer’s paradise, lording it over the idyllic Wartook Valley Best Places to Eat and the towns of Halls Gap and Dunkeld. ¨ Royal Mail Hotel (p230) ¨ Public Inn (p221) ¨ Mason’s of Bendigo (p215) When to Go ¨ Mr Carsisi (p218) Ballarat °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Catfish (p209) 40/104 12/300 30/86 8/200 Best Places to 20/68 10/50 Sleep 4/100 ¨ The Schaller Studio (p214) 0/32 ¨ -10/14 0 D’Altons Resort (p229) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Little Desert Nature Lodge (p234) Easter Join the Mar–May Autumn Sep–Nov When dragon procession colours, hiking the wildflowers ¨ The Newnorthern (p221) at the Bendigo and wine tour- bloom in Grampi- ¨ Flop House (p217) Easter Festival. ing without the ans National Park. crowds. 203 BALLARAT so check in advance; bookings are essential. POP 93,501 In July, its Winter Wonderlights (p208) festi- Ballarat was built on gold and it’s easy to val is a blockbuster event. see the proceeds of those days in the grand Your ticket also gets you into the nearby % Victorian-era architecture around the city Gold Museum (Map p206; 03-5337 1107; centre. The single biggest attraction here is www.sovereignhill.com.au/gold-museum-ballarat; h the fabulous, re-created gold-mining village Bradshaw St; adult/child $12.90/6.80; 9.30am- at Sovereign Hill, but there’s plenty more in 5.30pm), which sits on a mullock heap from this busy provincial city to keep you occu- an old mine. There are imaginative, modern pied, including grand gold-mining-era ar- displays and samples from all the old min- chitecture, art galleries and microbreweries. ing areas, as well as gold nuggets, coins and Rug up if you visit in the winter months – a display on the Eureka Rebellion. Ballarat is renowned for being chilly. To get here from town, take bus 21 from Ballarat Station. History oArt Gallery of Ballarat GALLERY The area around here was known to the local (Map p206; %03-5320 5858; www.balgal.com; 40 indigenous population as ‘Ballarat’, meaning Lydiard St Nth; h10am-5pm, tour 2pm) F Es- ‘resting place’. When gold was discovered tablished in 1884 and moved to its current here in August 1851, giving irresistible mo- location in 1890, the Art Gallery of Ballarat mentum to the central Victorian gold rush is the oldest provincial gallery in Australia. that had begun two months earlier in Clunes, The architectural gem houses a wonderful thousands of diggers flooded in, forming a collection of early colonial paintings, com- GOLDFIELDS THE& GRAMPIANS shanty town of tents and huts. Ballarat’s al- bined with modern art, with works from luvial goldfields were the tip of the golden noted Australian artists (including Tom iceberg, and when deep shaft mines were Roberts, Sir Sidney Nolan, Russell Drysdale, sunk they struck incredibly rich quartz reefs. Albert Tucker, Fred Williams and Howard In 1854 the Eureka Rebellion pitted miners Arkley) along with contemporary works. against the government and put Ballarat at There are free guided tours at 2pm daily. the forefront of miners’ rights. Museum of Australian 1 Sights Democracy at Eureka MUSEUM (MADE; Map p206; %1800 287 113; www.made. oSovereign Hill HISTORIC SITE org; 102 Stawell St; adult/child/family $12/8/35; (Map p206; %03-5337 1100; www.sovereign- h10.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat hill.com.au; Bradshaw St; adult/child/family & Sun) Standing on the site of the Eureka $54/24.50/136; h10am-5pm, until 5.30pm during Rebellion, this fine museum opened in May daylight saving) You’ll need to set aside at least B SI BALLA 2013 and has already established itself as one alla half a day to visit this fascinating re-creation G of Ballarat’s top attractions. Taking the Eure- H of Ballarat’s 1860s gold-mining township. ts R ka Rebellion as its starting point – pride of R The site was mined in the gold-rush era and place goes to the preserved remnants of the at AT much of the equipment is original, as is the original Eureka flag and multimedia displays mine shaft. Kids love panning for gold in the that re-create the events of 1854 – the muse- stream, watching the hourly gold pour and um then broadens out to discuss democracy exploring the old-style lolly shop. in Australia and beyond through a series of The main street here is a living history mu- interactive exhibits. seum, with people performing their chores Its Saltbush Kitchen (p208) cafe is worth dressed in costumes of the time; check the eating at to sample indigenous flavours. schedule for daily parades and demonstra- tions. Sovereign Hill opens again at night for Botanic Gardens GARDENS the impressive sound-and-light show, Blood (Wendouree Pde; hsunrise-sunset) F On the on the Southern Cross (Map p206; %03- western side of the lake, Ballarat’s beautiful 5337 1199; www.sovereignhill.com.au/sound-light- and serene gardens were first planted in show; Bradshaw St, Sovereign Hill; show only adult/ 1858. Stroll through the 40 hectares of im- child/family $59.50/31.80/162, combined with Sov- maculately maintained rose gardens, wide ereign Hill ticket $113.50/56.30/298), a dramatic lawns and colourful conservatory. Visit the simulation of the Eureka Stockade battle. cottage of poet Adam Lindsay Gordon or There are two shows nightly, but times vary walk along the Prime Ministers’ Avenue, a .
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