briefings . global new openings Service with a smile edited by: Josh Fehnert French Truck Coffee louisiana

The coffee scene has perked up in OPEN Louisiana of late thanks to openings such as Lighthouse Coffee in Baton Rouge and Lafayette’s Rêve Coffee. But New Orleans’ French SEASON Truck Coffee remains the gold standard. Housed in two narrow, Wondering where to eat this summer? bright-yellow houses on Dryades Here we explore an impressive band of Street, the company launched as a wholesale distributor in 2012 before global openings and meet the roving demand forced owner Geoffrey restaurateurs behind them, including the Meeker to go into retail. Now with five shops across Louisiana and Sydney cyclist peddling pies from the Tennessee, Meeker is drawing back of his bicycle and the Umbrian coffee fanatics from both states. chef heading up a new venture from an Last autumn French Truck Coffee became the first Specialty Coffee Italian deli in London’s Soho. Association of America-certified barista-training campus in the region. Meeker’s impact goes beyond serving expertly brewed coffee, however. The secret, he says, is good old-fashioned southern hospitality. “A barista needs to be friendly. If you haven’t got a welcoming person up front, the rest doesn’t matter.” — asc frenchtruckcoffee.com

Pie-eating grin Broomfields PieCycle sydney

Ryan Broomfield (pictured) sells pies from That’s amari his PieCycle, a vehicle Marcello inspired, he says, “by the singapore Flying Pieman William Francis King, who sold Head bartender Palmira Bertuca pies to Parramatta steamer oversees this intimate 50-seat passengers in the 1850s”. Singapore bar that’s said to house Broomfield, who hails Southeast Asia’s largest trove of from UK pie-making amari: thick herbal Italian liqueurs Rocking the house royalty (his brother that are usually consumed as an Neil founded the Great Casa Moro North Pie Co), launched aperitif or digestivo. Let Bertuca london talk you through the flavours of Broomfields last year and now sells his circular fare modern amari – which include Sam and Samantha Clark, née ingredients such as cardamom, in some of Sydney’s best Clarke (both pictured), were food markets, including rhubarb and truffle – as you pick introduced because of their near- from Marcello’s list of Italian the one in the Rocks. identical names but were brought Each all-butter pastry pie cocktails. They include the gin- together by a shared passion for food. based smoked black-olive Negroni is made by Broomfield The Clarks founded Mediterranean in Balgowlah Heights in and the blockbuster Cinema joint Moro, followed by tapas bar Paradiso, which comes garnished Northern Beaches. “The Morito. Now they’ve launched key is working with other with a dainty cone of popcorn. catering business Casa Moro Head over for Aperitivo Hour, small businesses and alongside a private dining-room promoting their produce,” which lasts from 19.00 to 21.00 space in Hackney Wick. “The type every weekday, to munch dried says Broomfield. Classics of food we cook at Moro and Morito include a dark ale dates stuffed with tangy gorgonzola suits outside catering events, whether and spicy salami, and fried risotto iteration: local beef is it’s a party with delicious mezze or braised for 20 hours in a balls filled with mushrooms and Lauryn Ishak Rush Jagoe, : a more formal occasion,” says Sam, truffle oil. The snacks are almost sauce of ale, blackberry whose team has catered big and jam and toasted pearl as tasty as New York design firm small events, including Frieze Art AvroKO’s handsome fit-out. —zz barley. — csm Fair, for many years. — mss broomfields-pies.com publico.sg moro.co.uk photographers

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Making a mezze (1) Welcome to Palace (2) Wild Swedish garlic soup (3) Hans Välimäki on Palace’s balcony Francis (4) Laying the table (5) Bottle of Macallan (6) Palace kitchen (7) Palace exterior (8) Note Design Studio’s fit-out With high rent and initial start-up costs, Hong Kong’s restaurant scene is cutthroat and not particularly forgiving to newcomers. Francis, however, stands out. Just a few poached eggs served with a soup made steps from monocle’s bureau in Wan Chai, this 30-seat Middle Eastern restaurant has from wild Swedish garlic, with a side of amassed a faithful crowd since opening in pickled onions and sour cream. The main early 2018. The reason for its fast-found course, meanwhile, is cod glazed with success – despite the competitive market – is chicken fat that’s served with fresh Italian not just its signature mezze, which includes artichokes and poached lobster with lamb-neck ragu and a simple-but-sterling hummus, but also its service. lemon and dill. “We take care of business ourselves,” says Välimäki does not hide the fact that James Ward, who founded Francis alongside Palace is aiming for top clients paying top Italian sommelier Simone Sammuri and Israeli krone. The goal is to take Palace back to chef Asher Goldstein. The trio can be found its roots: the flag-bearer of Finnish fine here day and night, Tuesday to Sunday. — kl francis.com.hk dining. “Reopening such a classic, it’s the only way to go,” he says. 4 To pay homage to the restaurant’s heritage, Välimäki enlisted the help of ’s Note Design Studio. Dreamt up by interior architect My Degerth, Palace’s interior oozes warmth thanks to its muted palette combined with mid-century modern furniture. “We wanted to create 1 an atmosphere that honours and high- Royal treatment lights what Palace was in its glory days Palace but also transports it to the world as it is helsinki today,” says Degerth. “Palace is an icon and its architecture should be highlighted, Palace’s reopening in late 2017 was fer- not hidden.” — pb vently anticipated – and left the venue palacerestaurant.fi with a lot to live up to. It originally 5 6 opened in 1952 and quickly became the stomping ground for Finnish high society, as well as being one of the few Finnish restaurants being talked about abroad. The iconic space closed in 2016 and its Alvar Aalto-designed interiors were auc- tioned off. Hans Välimäki, however, saw 2 an opportunity. The Helsinki restaurant scene had become overrun by casual New Nordic fare. As Välimäki – the founder of Chez Dominique, ’s first and only two- Michelin-star restaurant – saw it, the time was ripe for a return to fine dining. “Palace focuses on finding the best sea- sonal ingredients, which are not always local in a country that is frozen in the winter”, says Välimäki, Palace’s chef de cuisine. The food here is unmistakably Finnish but with plenty of international flavour. Välimäki has no plans to serve insects, though, and you won’t find him foraging for wild herbs any time soon. Juho Kuva He once proclaimed that he’s a chef, “not : a horticulturalist”. In the kitchen, however, head chef

Eero Vottonen puts together perfectly photographer 3 7 176 8 the monocle drinking & dining directory briefings . global Mix and match Welcome addition retailers Whitegrass Messer Fitzroy singapore melbourne PITCH Australian chef-owner Sam Aisbett “The idea was to create somewhere (pictured) used the experience he that everyone felt welcome,” says gained working at Sydney restaurants Ashley Davis (pictured), who along Quay and Tetsuya to assemble with wife Janine recently opened PERFECT the menu at Whitegrass. Aussie Messer, a 50-seat restaurant ingredients such as muntries (a type in Melbourne’s inner-north. Defined by a strong sales pitch and a of cranberry), desert lime and fennel Situated on the ground floor of passion for stocking pantries, these are pollen from the Blue Mountains a newly constructed apartment are skillfully combined with Asian block, Messer and its food draws the retailers we recommend visiting in produce and Japanese techniques to heavily on the couple’s travels in 2018. Of course, once your larder is create a delectable array of flavours. Europe. At lunchtime waiters glide Said flavours are perfectly through the understated dining loaded you’ll need some cutting-edge encapsulated in the smoked- room carrying pork-hock rolls, kitchenware with which to prepare your Chowing down eel salad with rosella jam and cauliflower salads and cottage pies. new produce. Expect wares from Queen Chow Manly Australian mountain pepper, as Dinner, which includes wood-fired sydney well as Aisbett’s charcoal-roasted flammkuchen, is equally impressive to the US. Scottish beef patted in 20-year aged and showcases the skills that Ashley From their fine diner Mr Wong Japanese soya and served with black picked up on his travels. to the easier-going Queen salsify, wasabi leaf and fermented Prior to starting Messer, Ashley Chow, the Merivale Group mushrooms. The menu, which cooked in some of London’s most turns out some of Sydney’s ranges from two to eight courses, prestigious kitchens, such as that of Small wonder best Cantonese food. Alongside is complemented by this 70-seat Hélène Darroze. “I have an eye for dumpling dab hand Eric Koh, restaurant’s 19th-century neo- detail,” he says. “At the same time The General Store executive chef Patrick Friesen classical setting and playful interior, though, I want Messer to be relaxed cape town recently converted Merivale’s which comes courtesy of design and inviting.”— ac popular waterside diner Papi firm Takenouchi Webb. — zz messerfitzroy.com Tucked between soaring buildings Chulo in Manly into a second whitegrass.com.sg on Cape Town’s bustling lower outpost of its dim-sum spot Bree Street, this tiny timber-clad Queen Chow. It’s positioned on restaurant and grocer is little Manly Wharf with views out to Blast from the pasta more than a nook. The easiest sea and from the cbd it’s just a Lina Stores way to spot the General Store, in sparkling 30-minute ferry jaunt london fact, is to look out for the hungry across Sydney Harbour. lunch crowd spilling out onto the Popular with groups and A homesick Italian’s map of London rarely forgoes 18 Brewer pavement outside. families for Sunday brunch, Street. It’s here that deli Lina Stores opened almost 75 years Owned and run by chef Colette the modern Cantonese menu ago and where produce from the bel paese can be purchased. Robert, the General Store serves comprises roast duck, freshly Soon there’ll be a new addition to your address book too: coffee and daily dishes (among caught seafood and dumplings. the deli is launching its own restaurant nearby. Head chef its many delectable plates is The latter include Koh’s famous Masha Rener was a customer of Lina’s during her London roasted squash with shaved red shu mai: one stuffed with pork youth, before moving back to Umbria to open a restaurant. cabbage and lime) and stocks a and prawns, another with Her return to the UK has seen her put together a menu that small selection of speciality pantry vegetables and black caviar. — cr extends beyond her home in to include dishes such as provisions, including zesty cordials, merivale.com/queenchow seaside-inspired spaghetti with baby clams and botargo. — chr cookies, granola and preserves. linastores.co.uk Stay for lunch or grab a freshly brewed coffee – all of which are Religious experience served in ceramics designed by local maker Mervyn Gers – and a Monk slice of the fresh-out-of-the-oven kyoto cake of the day. Our favourite is the chocolate cake with vanilla-bean Set on Philosopher’s Walk, towards frosting and ganache. — mho Ginkaku-ji Temple, Monk serves the-generalstore.co.za inventive contemporary cuisine using local ingredients. A master of wood-fire cooking, owner-chef Yoshihiro Imai (pictured) starts every morning by visiting farms in Ohara for fresh vegetables, herbs and flowers. The counter seats in his cosy restaurant are very much in demand for their views of him dishing out delicious roasted vegetables, venison and stellar pizza. For that reason and Shimpei Hanaua, Gareth Sobey, Stephanie Veldman. Veldman. Stephanie Gareth Sobey, Shimpei Hanaua,

more, reservations are highly : recommended. — kh Studio Takeuma restaurant-monk.com photographers illustrator:

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Dutch ovens Self-preservation society Get baked De Pasteibakkerij Paul Rothe & Son Fortitude Bakehouse amsterdam london london Originally offering imported goods to cater If you chance upon some tasty Dutch-made A new venture from baker for London’s German community in the early pâté, terrine or rillettes in Amsterdam, Dee Rettali and London café 1900s, Paul Rothe & Son later moved its cured there’s a good chance it was made by De veteran Jorge Fernandez (both meats aside and added indoor seating to allow Pasteibakkerij. Hidden away in the back pictured, below right), formerly of for take-home or sit-down dining. Leap forward streets of the city’s south, this is the go-to Monmouth Coffee Company, to the present day and the look and the feel of the place for charcuterie, a forgotten tradition Fortitude Bakehouse is based establishment has been well preserved by dint of that owners Floris Brester and Diny Schouten in an old stable and is the first its fourth generation of family management. (pictured) are on a mission to revive. bakery in the capital to focus It’s located on Marylebone Lane just a short Using free-range grain-fed Dutch pigs, as exclusively on sourdough cakes, jaunt from Midori House and the walls, shelves well as other animals such as geese, they turn with gluten-free bakes to boot. and window displays here are neatly stacked with the animal’s unwanted parts – the throat, Choose from superb seeded jars of heat-treated fruit, vegetables and spices. kidneys and so on – into everything from black loafs and unusual treats such as Each one is charmingly packaged with calligraphic pudding to pâté, laced with jenever (Dutch gin) buckwheat and vanilla-cream labels and a cloth-sealed cap, making it difficult and juniper berries. The small shop is only open biscuits and apple and thyme not to leave with a selection after scoffing your on Fridays and Saturdays but it’s worth making crumble with chestnut flour. sandwich. It’s got more than a century of service the effort. They also sell natural wine, fresh An open kitchen reveals the under its belt; preservation seems to lead to an eggs and good bread. It’s picnic time. — vr bakers hard at work and Rettali exceptionally long shelf life. — tr depasteibakkerij.nl plans to hold regular workshops +44 (0)20 7935 6783 on sourdough baking, slow fermenting and cooking with Unbeatable meat alternatives to regular wheat flour. Cure Deli The spot is all about takeaways cape town but also has a small counter for those wishing to sit and savour Born in founder Martin their treats indoors. — sz Raubenheimer’s parent’s garage, fortitudebakehouse.com Cure Deli has never been (and still isn’t) your typical food retailer. The brand began as a project to Sweetness and light promote ethical meat consumption The Glasshouse by scrupulously working with singapore farmers who rear their animals with traceable origins. Cure Deli At the Glasshouse, natural light streams in buys whole carcasses then prepares through the custom-built glass pavilion and onto a selection of products, including greenery styled by botanical artist Charles Loh bangers, bacon and grass-fed lamb. of Singapore-based Mossingarden. Founders collection: a set of more A cut above To avoid “manipulative middle- Josh Liew and Qing He have stitched together a contemporary knives. man meat merchants and dodgy showcase of Singapore’s best producers, proving Tadafusa Meanwhile, distributors”, as Raubenheimer that what the city lacks in resources it makes niigata, japan interior designer calls them, devotees place their up for with its rich stock of makers and food Yusuke Seki restyled orders online and wait to receive a entrepreneurs. When Tadafusa ceo the showroom next delivery, or collect their products The 25-seat café serves a range of brews and third-generation to the old factory in from Cape Town’s Oranjezicht made from blends by local roasters including Japanese knife-maker Tsubame-Sanjo, in City Farm Market or Earth Fair Common Man Coffee and Homeground, Tadayuki Sone Niigata prefecture. Market. “We believe this makes which pair perfectly with its sweet pastries and decided to rebrand The shop’s light, us unique,” says Raubenheimer. open-faced sandwiches made with bread by the family business quiet interior made “We have never compromised Woodlands Sourdough. A corner of the space in 2012, he never from carbonised on our commitment to offer an is dedicated to handcrafted treats such as bean- imagined that his pinewood – also used alternative to indiscriminate mass to-bar single-origin goodies by Fossa Chocolate knives would end up in some of the knife consumerism.” — mho and scented candles by Mercantile. — zz as design classics in handles – makes for curedeli.co.za +65 9793 0234 New York’s Moma. He an interesting contrast has been producing to the noisy factory blades since 1948. next door, where 16 Connecting people The world’s biggest Muji “Our main clients craftsmen always seem incorporates a spacious food were fishermen when to be at work. Tomoji Muji Marché shop that sells seasonal fruit and our business almost Sone, Tadayuki’s osaka vegetables, Wagyu from Miyazki went bankrupt in uncle, has been and fish from two nearby ports. 2011; the earthquake practising the craft When Muji’s spruced-up Tokyo Muji’s mission is to connect city put many out of of knife-making for flagship store reopened last year dwellers with the people who business,” says more than 50 years, a new element was introduced: make their food; anyone who Tadayuki. “It was time though today his work Muji Marché, a fruit-and-vegetable wants to test the quality of the for a change.” is appreciated not only market selling low or no-pesticide produce should go to the café,

He asked Fumie by local fishermen Veldman Stephanie Jussi Puikkonen, McMinn, Trent : produce from Japanese farms. where a daily menu features Shibata from Japan’s but by chefs and Now Muji has pushed the concept anything from fresh sushi to Design Studio S for enthusiasts around further with a giant new shop and Japanese croquettes. — fw help. The result was the world. — dep café outside Osaka. muji.com the Hocho Kobo tadafusa.com photographers

180 181 the monocle drinking & dining directory the monocle drinking & dining directory briefings . global Got wood markets All jazzed up Blackcreek M&T Co St Roch Market new york MAKING new orleans After an eight-year hiatus from Many fail to acknowledge that New furniture-making, Joshua Vogel of Orleans’ food culture goes beyond bddw fame founded Blackcreek po’boys, gumbo and grits. At Nola’s Mercantile & Trading Co in 2010 A MARK St Roch Market, tacos, shakshuka, with partner Kelly Zaneto. The oysters, crawfish – as crayfish is smart studio has since grown to For those whose hunger is a little harder known in these parts – and craft 12 employees, who collaborate to to satisfy, you’ll find options aplenty in coffee sit side by side. Vendors that produce exquisite maple chopping include Elysian Oyster Bar, Fete boards and kitchen utensils. One our round-up of recommended markets. Au Fete (classic Cajun cuisine) of Blackcreek’s most unique pieces and Good Bird (rotisserie chicken is its line of maple salad bowls sandwiches and salads) showcase made from free-form turnings, a fare from all over the globe. Local commodities lengthy process that means they’re Weekends are when this market Indecent proposal Court Street Grocers only available once a year. Luckily really gets grooving. It’s when the Hudson Valley isn’t your only families enjoy long lunches and Queen Victoria Market new york option for buying Blackcreek wares: young New Orleanians quaff melbourne there are a handful of stockists cocktails from the Mayhaw Bar while In need of speciality soda, upstate yogurt or around the globe. — cwm tapping their toes to live jazz. — mho Queen Victoria Market California olive oil? Court Street Grocers blackcreekmt.com neworleans.strochmarket.com holds a special place in local is an excellent stop-off in this regard. The hearts – and stomachs. That’s product-packed grocer has been fuelling Carroll why a Melbourne council Gardens’ residents with homemade sandwiches redevelopment plan is proving for years but its prowess doesn’t end there: locals hard to swallow. The proposal has come for cult products that can be hard to find been blocked by Heritage Victoria, elsewhere. which believes that renovating You can nab everything from regional the market would sever it from and bread to sweet treats or freshly roasted its roots. The setback comes after and ground beans for filter coffee (you’ll find the proposal’s political architect no flat whites here) at this no-frills shop. But Robert Doyle stepped down don’t leave without sampling one of Court Centre of everything as mayor. His replacement will Streets’ iconic sandwiches. The Reuben, with its have to come up with some fresh house-corned short rib beef, Swiss cheese and Central Food Market ideas for the ageing monument, sauerkraut on rye, has rightfully helped cement aarhus irrespective of which side of the the status of this low-key joint into that of a debate they’re on. — jch neighbourhood institution. — mho The food scene in Aarhus is so far ahead of similarly sized qvm.com.au courtstreetgrocers.com cities that it’s only natural that its markets make for excellent eating. Central Food Market may be less fancy than the city’s ritzy restaurants but its lively environment – a dark interior peppered with long black-lacquered tables – makes Under one roof for a dramatic setting. Enjoy breakfast at Grød, which Assembly Chef’s Hall serves oatmeal and congee with sweet (caramel, almonds) toronto and savoury (scallions, sesame) toppings. Then lunch at Bangkoch, where diners can enjoy Asian streetfood with a Canada’s largest city has caught up Nordic nudge courtesy of chef Jesper Koch. — mho with the rest of the world with the aarhuscentralfoodmarket.dk advent of its new food court, the rather smart Assembly Chef’s Hall. Say cheese “Offering something for everyone was critical,” says restaurateur Cheese market Andreas Antoniou over the din of the lunch crowd at the market on Richmond Street in downtown, Every Thursday which he opened in the base of

morning between one of the area’s myriad corporate April and August, tower blocks in January. Just desserts visitors flock to the On busy weekday lunchtimes, city of Gouda to catch chefs at Bluenose Lobster pop Winterspring its cheese market, soft pieces of the shellfish into the copenhagen which has been held restaurant’s signature roll; nearby, every year since 1395. servers at Tachi wait to seat diners Chilly desserts don’t come more refreshing than Winterspring’s, whose Farmers from the at Canada’s first standing-only unmatched flavours are informed by the likes of wild raspberries, sun- surrounding region sushi restaurant. Down the hall, ripened apples and Italian liquorice. “We have always taken pride in are responsible for chefs at The Good Son Pizza slide combining Nordic flavours with innovative techniques to create exquisite producing 60 per cent freshly topped crusts into the oven desserts,” says founder Karina Schmitt Lund. Now Winterspring has of all Dutch cheese and the cooks at Love Chix dress opened its own dessert bar, which also serves breakfast, lunch and and Gouda has long glistening pieces of freshly fried Jordi Huismann, Jan Søndergaard, Ian Patterson. Ian Patterson. Søndergaard, Jan Huismann, Jordi

afternoon tea. The space was decked out by the smart souls at Studioilse: : Studio Takeuma been the best place chicken for a patient line of think Swedish ceramics and embroidered linens. Meanwhile, a purpose- for them to show off hungry customers standing made walnut-and-curved-glass vitrine shows off Winterspring’s take on their artistry. — vr at the counter. — tle Danish flødeboller (chocolate-covered marshmallows). — sz goudakaasstad.nl assemblychefshall.com

winterspringdesserts.com photographer illustrator:

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producers Milking it On the lamb Gay’s Guernsey Dairy Most Australian klein karoo, south africa The Farm House sheep are bred western firstly for wool and HUMBLE australia secondly for meat; It was a simple demand for fresh milk that made Gay Van Hasselt not so the Arkady start a dairy. She and her three Visit a top Western flock. The sheep are ORIGINS cows began providing fresh milk Australian restaurant co-owned by third- for the town of Prince Albert in such as Wildflower generation farmer Provenance may have become a go-to South Africa’s arid Klein Karoo in Perth or Voyager Colin Houghton and culinary buzzword but that doesn’t make region about 30 years ago. Today Estate in Margaret farmer, winemaker Van Hasselt also produces yogurt River and the chances David Hohnen. it any less important. Here we explore and cheese made from full-fat are that you’ll see Together the duo distilleries in unexpected spots, find out cream and raw Guernsey cow’s Arkady Lamb on focus on minimising milk. Her products are available at the menu. This flock the animals’ stress: why lamb-lovers are flocking to Western delis around the region but many of 15,000 Wiltshire there are no dogs Australia’s best restaurants and take in make the four-hour trek from Cape ewes bred on Lynford on the farm and the Sweating the small stuff the verdant glow of the Zeeland region to Town just to get their hands on Farm, a two-hour lambs are left to roam, her sharp-tasting matured cheddar drive southeast of monitored not by Small Beer meet those coming up with the goods. and parmesan-style Parma Prince Perth, is synonymous barks but by (gentle, Brew Company cheese. — mho with premium lamb we’re told) electronic london gaysguernseydairy.com (and diners here ear tags. — jsw know their lamb). thefarmhousemr.com.au Before the 19th century’s advances in sanitation, a glug of Bucking the trend contaminated water could have had Cask away a seriously nasty outcome. Low- Kavalan Whisky Høstet alcohol and so-called “small beer”, yuanshan, taiwan bornholm, therefore, was the norm in homes and even schools. But the need for Camilla and Mads Meisner (both When Taiwan joined the World Trade small beer eventually ebbed away pictured) never set out to become Organization in 2002 and its government lifted and its recipe was lost. Until now. sea-buckthorn farmers – but then, the monopoly rights on alcohol production, Lee Brewers Felix James and James who would? Following a holiday Tien-Tsai, head of the nation’s leading beverage Grundy have pored over history on the Danish island of Bornholm, firm King Car Group, began gathering resources books and ancient recipes to open the couple decided to decamp from to set up the country’s first whiskey distillery. the world’s first small-beer brewery their home in Copenhagen to the Today the brand is an Asian alternative to Japan’s in southeast London’s Bermondsey. Baltic island permanently. “I was Nikka and Suntory, selling in 68 countries. — kl Their low-alcohol dark and light taking a course in superfoods and kavalanwhisky.com lagers might come in small bottles became aware of sea buckthorn, but they’re big on flavour. Their which is a plant that’s been around manifesto? “Historically, small beer since the last ice age,” says Camilla. was considered an afterthought Sea change After realising that no one was when brewing but we believe this Lussa Gin growing the shrub commercially should never be the case. Using in Denmark, the couple began sustainable brewing methods, we jura, scotland harvesting its bright are committed to reinvigorating berries, which are extremely high a liquid that was once at the Windswept and bleakly beautiful, in antioxidants. Their first product very heart of society.” — sz Jura on Scotland’s west coast is was marmalade, a creamy sweet- theoriginalsmallbeer.com perhaps best known for its whisky and-sour jam that won first place at distillery of the same name. Coast with the most a recent Bornholm food fair. “All Follow its only road – a potholed of our products are artisan-style Crafty collaboration single track – for a further 27km Zeeuws Zilt and not big scale yet,” says Camilla. Suntory, Roku Gin north, however, and you’ll reach zeeland, the netherlands Today they sell their organic the stables of deer-stalking estate products in select delis and osaka Ardlussa, the home of Lussa Gin. When Hubrecht and Maarten tasteful restaurants. — mho In the 82 years since Suntory It’s 205 years younger than its Jansa’s grandfather bought a plot hoestet.dk released Hermes, the first whisky-producing rival but the of coastal land in the Netherlands’ “Made in Japan” gin, the Osaka- island’s 200 residents should be sun-drenched Zeeland region based company has accumulated no less proud of the tipple that this in the 1970s, he worked hard to On the sauce distilling know-how aplenty. outfit has been turning out since replace the native samphire and Nicole’s Kitchen Now, after specialists spent a 2015. Lussa Gin brings together sea lavender with potatoes and hong kong year at the Suntory liquor studio spring water, neutral spirit and wheat. Today the Jansa brothers in Osaka, the brand has created 15 botanicals (many grown and are returning to their salty roots, Nicole’s Kitchen began seven years ago when mother of a craft gin that blends six (roku) foraged on and around the island, using the region’s nutrition-packed two Nicole Wong began making fruit jam for her children Japanese botanicals, including including sea lettuce and Scots natural bounty to make unusual and friends. The Hong Kong business may now sell more gyokuro tea and citrusy yuzu. pine). With fresh citrus and forest products such as gin, cheese and than 100,000 jars a year but Wong preserves the flavours of Beam Suntory then helped to notes and hints of the sea, the seaweed mustard. home cooking by forgoing artificial additives, which helped create the branding for the global result is a dangerously delicious Visitors to the family business’s combination. Critics agree: there is persuade retailers to stock her products back in 2015. market; the hexagonal bottle shop in Wolphaartsdijk can camp David Stephanie Veldman, De Vleeschauwer : She has since expanded the line-up to comprise some of bears a washi paper label with a growing number of awards piling on site and visit the samphire fields, the most popular Cantonese condiments, including xo sauce no-nonsense roku lettering by up in this remote but remarkable which turn a verdant green between and black-bean-and-garlic chilli sauce. — kl calligrapher Tansetsu Ogino. — jt distillery. — ama May and September. — vr nicoleskitchen.com.hk suntory.co.jp lussagin.com zeeuwszilt.com photographer

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