Alumni Magazine of the Fashion Institute of Technology

volume 4 | number 1 | fall 2010 FEATURES DEPARTMENTS

ž” ©” CityViews Hue’sNews Cathy”Hobbs”’¢ž”designs”on”TV” Recent”developments”at” (and”in”real”lifeš”too)” and”related”to”FIT ¦” ª” Life’sRichPageant IContact The”photography”of”Mary”Ellen”Mark A”grad”returns”for”her” §¢” second”degreeš”¬®”years”later WhyDesignNow? ¦” The”Cooper-Hewitt”Museum’s”triennial— Footprint and”four”alumni”who”work”there FIT’s”Starbucks–”a”greener”beanery §©” §¦” JapanFashionNow FacultyOn‡ Director”and”Chief”Curator”Valerie”Steele” Like”butterfliesš”graduates” on”The”Museum”at”FIT’s”latest emerge”transformed §ž” ¬ª” ON THE COVER 10 Meet“Cute” AlumniNotes Lolitas”frolic”at”the”Brooklyn” Find”out”what”your”classmates” Our cover seems to feature just one alum— Botanic”Garden are”up”to superstylist Robert Verdi, Jewelry Design ’88. In fact, it features five. Part of a special Hue §ª” ®§” ThePowerofTen Sparks collaborative project, it was shot by photographer Cosmetics”and”Fragrance”master’s” James”Damian”’³®”looks”into” Robert Mendolia ’03 with assistance from fellow 14 16 program”marks a”stellar”decade Gene”Moore’s”windows Photography grads Sean Waltrous ’02 and ¬¢” Michael Stewart ’10, and Verdi’s nylon jacket NoseJob was created by Anthony Caputo, Menswear ’91, If”your”perfumeš”soapš”or”powder” design director for Li & Fung. See “Angel and smells”goodš”thank”Ana”Terzi”’¢ž Demon,” pp. 22-25. Below: Verdi wears wool-and- ¬¬” leather coat by Alfonso Gaitan, Menswear ’10, AngelandDemon at the J. Lindeberg show during New York’s Photographer”Robert”Mendolia”’¢®”shows” Fashion Week. The bag is Verdi’s own design. the”light”and”dark”sides”of”Robert”Verdi”’ªª” ¬ž” Floored Katalin”Laszlo”’¢°”works”on”rugs” for”home”design’s”big”names ”

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Sitings Hue is the alumni magazine of the Fashion Institute Vice President for Editor On FIT’s website, www.fitnyc.edu Back cover: Single-note scents and fragrance samples in Ana Terzi’s lab Communications and Linda Angrilli of Technology, a State University of New York Continuing”and”Professional”Studies–”fitnyceducontinuinged (pp. 20-21). Photo: Joanne Chan. External Relations college of art and design, business and technology. Managing Editor FIT”job”openings– Loretta Lawrence Keane fitnycedujobs Alex Joseph It is published three times a year by the Division Gladys”Marcus”Library–”fitnycedulibrary Assistant Vice President of Communications and External Relations, Staff Writer The”Museum”at”FIT–”fitnycedumuseum for Communications Alumni Magazine of the Fashion Institute of Technology 227 West 27 Street, Room B905, New York City Gregory Herbowy Carol Leven To”view”videos”about”the”collegeš”go”to–”youtubecomaboutfit 10001-5992, 212 217.4700. Editorial Assistant Email: hue@fitnyc.edu Vanessa Machir Email”the”FIT”Alumni”Association–”victoria›guranowski@fitnycœedu volume 4 | number 1 | fall 2010 Art Direction and Design Address letters to the editors, Hue magazine. Go”to”fitnyceduhue”to”answer”TheAskš”tell”us”what”inspires” Empire Design Studio you”for”Sparksš”or”update”your”alumni”infoœ

Hue magazine on

the web: fitnyc.edu/hue McMullan Patrick

2 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 3 Hue’s”Fall”¬¢§¢”Online”Treats” JapanFashionNow”and” QUICK READ His&Hers”at”FIT’s”Museum

Beentofitnyceduhuelately?”If”notš”you’ve” TheMuseumatFIT”kicked”oµ”its”¬¢§¢-§§” >> FIT’s Office of Disability Support Services, been”missing”out”on”exclusive”slideshowsš” season”in”September”with”the”opening”of” FIT-ABLE, has launched projectTHRIVE, for videoš”and”extra”content”about”the”FIT” JapanFashionNowš”a”review”of”the”past” students on the autism spectrum or who

community”and”campus”happeningsœ”New” ®¢”years”of”Japanese”designš”from”the” have social anxiety, pervasive development what’s happening on campus features”for”fall”¬¢§¢”include– avant-garde”to”street”stylesœ”A”related” disorders, or other nonverbal learning disorders. symposiumš”featuring”academicsš”curatorsš” A collaboration with the Jewish Child Care >> Watercolor”sketches”of”fashions”by” designersš”and”fashion”editorsš”was”held”on” Association’s Compass Project, projectTHRIVE Ralph”Rucciš”Fashion”Design”’ª¢š”by”FIT” campus”November”©”and”°œ”Turn”to”page” provides help with independent living skills, faculty”member”Bil”Donovanš”Fashion” §©”to”check”out”an”essay”on”the”exhibition” navigating academia, social skills training, Illustration”’³ª”(below)œ by”Valerie”Steeleš”chief”curator”and”director” time management, and organization. >> Interviews”with”the”Japanese”Lolitas” of”The”Museum”at”FITš”and”to”page”§ž”for” >> FIT’s first annual sustainability grants, of”“Meet”‘Cute’””(ppœ”§ž-§³)œ “Meet”‘Cuteš’””Hue’s”Japanese”Lolita”fashion”

what’s happening on campus supported by a $15,000 fund established >> Slideshows”of”handmade”wooden”jewelry” spreadœ”JapanFashionNow”runs”through” by President Joyce F. Brown, were awarded by”Heather”Koschš”Fashion”Design”’¢¬š”and” April”¬š”¬¢§§œ Smiljana Peros to Karen Pearson, Science and Math, and Students enjoy the great outdoors, sort of, in new seating outside the Marvin Feldman Center. shoe”designs”by”alumna”Alessandra”Goldœ His&Hersš”the”latest”exhibition”in”the” Elaine Maldonado, director of the Center for Fashion”and”Textile”History”Galleryš”opens” >> An”excerpt”from” StarlightRescueš”the” Excellence in Teaching, for their Teaching FIT’s”Campus”Makeover November”®¢”and”runs”through”May”¬¢§§œ” forthcoming”romance”novel”by”Leslee” Sustainability outreach; Jewelry Design staff An”examination”of”the”social”and”cultural” Thissummer”the”college”broke”ground” of”the”serpentine”wall”in”front”of”the”Marvin” Carlson”Breeneš”Fashion”Illustration”and” Sarah Abramson, Lauren Pineda, and Brian factors”behind”gender”conventions”in”fashionš” on”a”campus”beautification”project”to”make” Feldman”Centerš”which”was”inspired”by” Advertising”Design”’ž°œ Weissman, for their Green Studio initiative; and”an”illustration”of”the”evolution”of” FIT’s”outdoor”areas”greenerš”more”welcomingš” one”of”Thomas”Jeµerson’s”designs”for”the” >> and MaryAnn Sorensen Allacci, Interior Design, Photos”by”Mary”Ellen”Mark”(see”“Life’s” “masculine””and”“feminine””clothing”over” and”more”user-friendlyœ”A”total”of”¬¬”new” University”of”Virginia”campusœ”New”seating” for Building a Sustainable Design Resource: Rich”Pageantš””pœ”¦)œ the”past”¬°¢”yearsš”His&Hers”includes” trees—donated”by”MillionTreesNYCš”a” also”went”up”in”front”of”the”Feldman”Centerœ Partnering on the Next Generation of FIT >> A”slideshow”of”VIPs”from”the”Couture” works”by”designers”such”as”Giorgio”Armaniš” citywide”clean-air”and”sustainability”initia- Improved”lighting”has”been”installed”in”front” Library Research Guides. tive—were”planted”on”¬žthš”¬³thš”and”¬ªth” of”the”dining”hallš”and”a”ramp”is”being” Council”lunch”honoring”Karl”Lagerfeldœ Jean”Paul”Gaultierš”Gianni”Versaceš”and” streetsœ”All”preexisting”campus”trees”were” constructed”for”wheelchair”access”to”the” Vivienne”Westwoodœ” >> Steven Stipelman, FIT class of 1963 and inspected”by”arborists´”oneš”found”to”be”deadš” Morris”Wœ”and”Fannie”Bœ”Haft”Auditoriumœ Formoremuseuminformationortoview longtime Fashion Design–Art faculty member,

was”replacedœ”Several”plants”were”relocated” The”iron”fences”and”walls”in”front”of”Coed” Jerry Speier thescheduleofFashionCultureeventsvisit sketched Chelsea Clinton’s wedding dress Shades of Karl Lagerfeld: top, the man of the hour with for the August 2, 2010, cover of WWD. to”the”rear”of”Nagler”Hall”to”create”a”more” and”Nagler”halls”were”removedš”with”a”lower” President Joyce F. Brown and, above, Anna Wintour (left) fitnycedu
museum pleasant”sitting”area”for”studentsœ wall”erected”in”their”placeœ”A”new”pathwayš” and Diane Kruger. >> Art Ortenberg, husband of Liz Claiborne The”upper”and”lower”courtyards”in”front” featuring”inset”lighting”and”seating”areasš” Karl”Lagerfeld”Honored”with” (1929-2007) and cofounder of the brand, of”the”David”Dubinsky”and”Business”and” was”constructed”between”the”hallsœ” spoke to students and signed copies of his Liberal”Arts”centers”feature”new”seatingš” Couture”Council”Award” The”projectš”designed”by”architecture”and” book, Liz Claiborne: The Legend, The Woman, plantsš”and”bike”racksœ”A”serpentine”planting” planning”firm”David”Smotrich”&”Partnersš” Fashionworld”luminaries”gathered”at” in September, as part of the Places and Faces bed”has”been”installed”at”the”face”of”the” will”be”completed”by”the”end”of”fallœ Lincoln”Center’s”Avery”Fisher”Hall”on” in Fashion class. breezeway”between”the”buildings—an”echo” September”§¢”to”honor”Karl”Lagerfeldš” >> In November, Annemarie Iverson, Bobbi Brown German-born”designer”for”Chanel”as”well” Cosmetics’ senior vice president of creative as”his”own”labelœ”Lagerfeldš”also”a”noted” brand development, discussed and signed photographer”and”artistš”received”the” copies of her book, In Fashion: From Runway When was the last Couture”Council”of”The”Museum”at”FIT’s” to Retail, Everything You Need to Know to time you received a Fashion”Visionary”Awardš”whichš”said” Break into the Fashion Industry, at the Barnes handwritten note museum”director”Valerie”Steeleš”recognized” & Noble at FIT. instead of an email? his”“unparalleled”role”as”a”creative”force”in” In”“Nose”Job””(ppœ”¬¢-¬§)š”Ana” the”world”of”fashionœ””In”attendance”were” Terzi”’¢ž”reveals”how”Cotyš”the” For Hue it was July, when Cynthia Vogue”Editor”Anna”Wintourš”Barneys” cosmetics”and”fragrance”companyš” Williger Trainer, Fashion Buying Creative”Director”Simon”Doonanš”President” tests”its”scented”productsœ” and Merchandising ’69, sent us her update via USPS. Trainer’s Joyce”Fœ”Brownš”and”actress”Diane”Krugerš” Whatdoyoulook— postgraduate life has taken her who”presented”Lagerfeld”with”his”awardœ orsmell—forwhen from the buying offices of Bonwit Teller and Allied Stores to a The Museum at FIT buyingafragrance? 500-acre farm in Dickson, TN, From His & Hers: Suit, black-and-white checked wool, to the Nashville Symphony, for silk charmeuse, Yves Saint Laurent, fall 1983, gift of Email hue@fitnyc.edu which she played viola. She’s Roz Gersten Jacobs. Submissions will be considered now pursuing an art career and for publication in a future issueœ expecting her third grandchild.

4 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 5 OPPOSITE: Hobbs in the BELOW: Hobbs in the SELLING YOUR SPACE childš”a”daughterœ”Her” maintenance”to”the”door-” model unit of the Livmor, a Livmor’s lobby; the model work”pace”has”yet”to”flagœ” manœ”This”ease”with” condo building in Harlem. She unit’s master bedroom. On Metro Residential, Hobbs often takes “I”was”making”calls”the” conversationš”though”no” furnished the space for buyers “My work has a lot of Eastern on a “design challenge”—like converting day”after”I”deliveredš”” doubt”honed”during”her” to tour. “I love designing model influences, a lot of ’40s and an unfinished basement into livable units,” she says. “I get to ’50s Hollywood.” space—for clients looking to boost their she”saysœ broadcasting”careerš”is” pick out everything, from the home’s price on the market. But you don’t Hobbs”recounts” nonetheless”genuine” vase on the table to the art need costly renovations to make a place much”of”this”while”taking” and”irrepressibleœ”“The” on the walls.” Cathy Hobbs, Interior Design ’06, more attractive to buyers, she says. professors”at”FITš”they” on design, on real estate, and on-air a”photographer”and”this” Here are her four tips for owners looking writer”on”a”tour”of”the” all”know”meš””she”laughsœ” to make a sale. By Greg Herbowy Livmorš”a”recently”opened” “I”meanš”I”was”there”for” condominium”building” seven”years!”That”‘Fashion” CLEAN You’d be surprised how in”Harlem”for”which”she” Hot”Dog’”guy”at”the”corner?” many people don’t take the time to do this designed”the”children’s” He”knows”meš”tooœ””She” right. Don’t just sweep the floor— replace old, dirty light switches and playroomš”gymš”lobbyš” has”turned”this”skill”to” electrical sockets and give the place hallwaysš”and”screening” her”advantage”in”interior” a fresh coat of paint. roomœ”She”also”decorated” designœ”Beginning”with”the” the”Livmor’s”model” people”who”sold”units”in” DECLUTTER People like to see residenceš”a”furnished”but” the”Brooklyn”building”she” furnished homes but they want to see the unoccupied”apartment”for” and”her”husband”live”inš” space, too. Edit, edit, and edit again, even prospective”buyers”to”tourœ” Hobbs”has”cultivated”a” if it means putting stu in storage. You’re Warm”hues—particularly” network”of”area”real-estate” moving anyway. orangeš”which”Hobbs”calls” brokers”and”developers” DEPERSONALIZE Too many her”“signature”color”— who”regularly”come”to” personal belongings, like family photos on predominate”throughoutš” her”with”jobsš”and”to”pitch” the wall, convey that this is “your” space. and”a”large”wall”in”the” their”more”outstanding” lobby”is”covered”with”a” listings—“eye”candyš””she” NEUTRALIZE Too much bold color distinctive”woven”wood” says—for”MetroResidential turns buyers o. Use muted shades for panelingœ”The”earth” segmentsœ”And”through” the majority of the space, with the bolder choices as accents. tones”echo”the”brick”and” these”relationshipsš”she” brownstone”of”a”romanti- has”come”to”find”her”nicheš” cized”Harlemœ”The”panels” specializing”in”projects” resemble”basketwork” designed”to”maximize”a” and”thatched”roofsš”and” property’s”sales”potential” suggest”more”remote” (see”sidebar)œ”” sources”of”inspirationœ” Moving”forwardš” “I’ve”been”all”overš””says” Hobbs”has”plans”to”further” Hobbsš”whose”experiences” meld”her”on-air”and”design” abroad”include”covering”a” occupationsš”building”a” food”drop”in”Sarajevo”with” personality-driven”design” the”National”Guard”during” brand”that”incorporates” n”§¦¦¦š”Cathy”Hobbsš”then”a”broadcast” in”the”studioš”waiting”for”news”to”happenœ” the”Bosnian”Civil”Warœ” “a”line”of”home”products” journalist”for”New”York”City’s”WPIX-§§š” Seven”years”and”three”Emmy”awards” “My”travels”have”definitely” and”booksš”the”TV”showš” enrolled”in”FIT’s”Interior”Design” for”her”reporting”later”(“I”was”nominated”for” influenced”my”workœ””””” a”blogš”and”radio”spotsœ”” programœ”She”had”long”taken”an”interest” more”Emmys”while”I”was”at”FIT”than”when” The”Livmor”is” She”has”already”begun”the” in”the”fieldœ”In”her”lean”yearsš”newly” I”wasn’tš””she”saysš”and”boasts”a”totalš”so”farš” aphereä’s”biggest”projectš” process”of”democratizing” graduated”from”the”University”of” of”five”statuettes)š”Hobbs”graduated”with” in”size”and”prominenceš” her”services”with”aphereä’s” Southern”California”and”working”on-air” her”BFAœ”By”then”she”was”already”a”few”years” to”dateš”and”Hobbs’s”pride” Design”Recipesš”step-by- at”a”TV”station”in”Bakersfield”(a”job”she”began” into”her”second”careerš”having”founded”her” in”the”work”is”evidentœ”“I” step”home-decoration” while”still”a”student)š”Hobbs”made”her”own” interior”design”firmš”aphere䚔while”still”a” presented”three”design” guidelinesš”complete”with” home”decorationsš”stitching”drapes”and” studentœ”Last”yearš”Hobbs”left”the”newsroom” directions”to”the”develop- resource”listings”(Hobbs’s” pillows”and”reupholstering”furnitureœ”As”her” and”launchedMetroResidentialš”a”weekly” ersš””she”saysš”“and”they” favorites”include”ABC” WPIX”assignment”was”to”cover”breaking” real”estate”and”interior”design”show”she” picked”my”personal”favor- Carpet”&”Homeš”B”&”J” news”live”in”the”eveningš”it”meant”free”days” executive-producesš”co-hostsš”and”co-ownsœ” iteœ””As”she”makes”her” Fabricsš”and”Crate”&” and”many”nighttime”hours”spentš”Hobbs”saysš” The”show”airs”Sunday”mornings”on”WPIXš” way”through”the”buildingš” Barrel’s”CB¬”brand)š”for” “sitting”aroundœ”So”I”figuredš”‘Why”not”do” available”to”§¢”million-plus”homes”in”the” she”talks”warmly”with” the”dœiœyœ-mindedœ”Like” something”constructive”with”the”time?’”That’s” greater”metropolitan”regionœ”This”summerš” everyone”she”encountersš” Hobbs”herselfš”¬¢”or”so”

where”I”ended”up”doing”my”FIT”homework— she”and”her”husband”welcomed”their”first” Claudio Papapietro from”management”to” years”agoœ

6 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 7 PATTERN Starbucks Is Green Life’s Rich Pageant

RECOGNITION The sustainable design behind Photographer Mary Ellen Mark visits campus FIT’s new hangout Naira Batash Technical Design ’11 Fashion Design ’87 It isn’t just the logo that’s green at FIT’s Starbucks, which has been serving up Frappuccinos and other Last fall, you reenrolled at FIT after more than beverages in the dining hall since last January. In plan- 20 years in the workplace. What was it that ning the café, the college worked with Jason Spears, a a student in first person a student prompted your return? Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)- I”had”left”my”job”to”care”for”my”mother”but”wanted”to” steps toward a sustainable future a sustainable toward steps certified design manager for Starbucks, to make the stay”involved”in”the”fashion”industryœ”Technology”keeps” space and its operations eco-friendly. getting”better”and”it’s”our”obligation”to”keep”up”with”itœ” Most of the café’s furnishings and all of its casework My”grandmother”used”to”sayš”“You’ll”learn”until”you”dieœ” (the decorative housing for appliances) were manufac- Clayton Moore, the former Speaking of family and education, I’m told your tured within 500 miles of campus, the short shipping Lone Ranger, Los Angeles, 1992. daughter went to FIT, too. distance reducing the materials’ carbon footprint. What’s Moore was wearing the mask Her”name”is”Maya”Papismedovœ”She”graduated”in”¬¢¢¦š” more, the banquette, storefront, and wainscoting are when Mark arrived. “He was very Fashion”Merchandising”Managementœ”I”got”marriedš”and” made of bamboo, a fast-growing, renewable resource. paranoid,” she said. then”got”pregnant”with”herš”while”I”was”still”a”student” The wall mural was printed on 100-percent postconsumer hereœ”I”took”my”final”exam”on”a”Monday”and”had”my” recycled material. The paneling is made of reclaimed love”the”idea”of”American” they”don’t”look”at”what”they’ve”just” daughter”that”Fridayœ” coconut shells and, since coconuts are naturally resistant ritualš””renowned”photographer” shot”and”“miss”a”picture”while”they’re” to decomposition, needed no chemical treatments for Mary”Ellen”Mark”saidœ”It” looking”at”itœ””But”her”talent”has”proved” Can you describe what it is that you do as a durability. The walls separating the café from the dining was”September”§©”and”Markš” durableš”recognized”and”rewarded” technical designer? hall’s general seating area were kept low to minimize speaking”in”the”Katie”Murphy”Amphi- for”nearly”five”decadesœ”In”addition” A”designer”gives”me”a”sketch”and”I”make”a”“tech” the materials used and increase airflow, which takes theatre”as”the”first”guest”of”the” to”her”documentary”work—for”which” pack”—a”manual”on”how”to”manufacture”the”garmentš” advantage of the room’s existing heating, venting, Photography”Department’s”¬¢§¢-§§” she’s”photographed”everything”from” with”all”the”construction”details”and”instructions”on” and air-conditioning systems. Much of the “barista” Photo”Talk”seriesš”began”the”evening” traveling”circuses”in”India”to”a”school” how”each”detail”should”be”developedœ”So”a”technical” equipment is Energy Star certified for efficiency, and with”a”slideshow”of”her”workš”which” for”disabled”children”in”Iceland— designer”must”have”computer”drawing”skills”as”well”as” reduced-flow faucets decrease water usage. included”black-and-white”images”of” Mark”has”shot”ads”for”Heineken”and” knowledge”of”constructionš”patternmakingš”and”gradingœ Of course, often the most sustainable thing to do paradesš”rodeosš”and”trick-or-treating” Nissan”and”behind-the-scenes”action” Have you studied anything besides fashion? is to not do. In this instance, that meant installing the kids”on”Halloweenœ”Many”of”the”photos” and”publicity”stills”for”countless” I”grew”up”in”Tbilisiš”Georgiaš”when”it”was”a”part”of”the” Starbucks in an underused space rather than building were”first”printed”in”magazines”like” moviesš”including”ApocalypseNow” Soviet”Unionš”and”in”a”senseš”I”was”always”a”fashionistaœ” a new structure. As George Jefremow, executive director the”lateš”lamented”Life”and”Lookš”back” (§¦³¦)”and”SleepyHollow”(§¦¦¦)œ”She” I”worked”part”time”at”a”fashion”house”and”for”Zurab” of Facilities and overseer of the project, points out, when”publications”were”willing”to” also”collaborates”with”her”husbandš” Tsereteliš”an”artist”and”architectœ”But”when”it”came”time” “Few items carry as much sustainable weight as the devote”many-page”spreads”to”photo” filmmaker”Martin”Bellš”helping”to” to”apply”to”an”art”academyš”I”found”out”that”because”of” reuse of existing space.” essays”on”“the”kind”of”human”interest” produce”his”pictures”and”photograph- my”imperfect”drawing”skills”I”wouldn’t”get”accepted”in” stories”we”don’t”see”anymoreš””she”saidœ” ing”his”subjectsœ” the”fashion”programœ”So”I”enrolled”in”architecture” Throughout”her”talkš”Mark”por- Bell”was”on”handš”and”the”event” insteadœ”It”was”strangeœ”I”was”not”allowed”to”create”a” trayed”herself”as”a”throwback”to”the” finished”with”a”screening”of”his”latest” dressš”but”I”could”design”a”house”or”a”bridge? days”of”yoreš”when”editors”gave”corre- documentaryš”Prom(¬¢§¢)š”for”which” spondents”an”open-ended”assignment— Mark”is”planning”to”publish”a”compan- When and why did you move to New York? “prostitutes”in”Bombayš””for”instance— ion”photo”bookš”and”an”audience”Q&A” My”mother”and”I”immigrated”in”§¦ª©”to”get”away”from” and”several”months”to”work”on”itœ” with”the”coupleœ”Asked”by”a”student” communismœ”I”was”considering”a”career”in”computer” “I’m”still”an”analog”photographerš”” about”the”prospects”for”young”photo- science”at”the”timeœ”But”when”we”visited”a”placement” she”saidš”by”way”of”explaining”her” graphersš”Mark”let”her”belief”in”the” organizationš”the”counselor”found”out”I’d”made”the” preference”for”film”over”digitalš”and” enduring”value”of”her”workš”and”that” clothes”I”was”wearing”and”put”me”in”touch”with”FIT” she”advises”her”students”(though”based” of”others”like”herš”showœ”“Life”is”rich” right”thenœ”He”saidš”“You”don’t”want”to”work”in”computer” in”New”Yorkš”Mark”teaches”photogra- and”interestingš””she”saidœ”“There”has” science!”Your”eyes”will”be”red”and”swollen”from”staring” phy”in”Oaxacaš”Mexico)”to”mask”the” to”be”a”future”in”documenting”itœ” at”a”screen”all”day”longœ””Now”we’re”all”staring”at”screens” display”screens”on”their”camerasš”so” all”day”longœ”But”I”love”computersœ”Even”after”a”day”of” working”on”the”computerš”the”first”thing”I”do”when” FIT’sPhotoTalkseriesisorganizedbyAssistantProfessorJessicaWynneandcosponsored I”get”home”is”check”my”emailœ” bythecollege’sDiversityCouncilandStudent-FacultyCorporationAlltalksarefreeand opentothepublicThenexteventfeaturingAlecSothisintheKatieMurphyAmphitheatre DecemberŽat‘pm

8 hue | fall 2010 Matthew Septimus Smiljana Peros www.fitnyc.edu/hue 9  Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum  CURATOR’S CHOICE Matilda McQuaid Hue asked the Cooper-Hewitt’s deputy curatorial director, head of the textiles department, and co-curator of Why Design Now? to choose an exhibit to set the stage for the Why Design Now?A LOOK AT THE MUSEUM’S TRIENNIAL EXHIBITION alumni picks on the next spread.

By Alex Joseph Favorite project in the show: City master plan, Medellín, Illustrations by Amy Geller, Illustration MA ’10 Colombia, 2004–7, by Plan B Architects. Alejandro Bernal (Colombian, b. 1973), Felipe Mesa (Colombian, b. 1975), Camilo Restrepo (Colombian, b. 1974), and J. Paul Restrepo (Colombian, b. 1944).

Why it’s her favorite: It’s a city—not just a product. It can be used as a model to improve other cities, because that’s what we’re faced with. We’re rarely going to have the opportunity to build a new city from the ground up.

What happened there: Medellín was a dangerous, crime-ridden place. Instead of just having the police put the drug dealers in prison, the planners decided to attack the problem from every angle. Collaborating with social workers, anthropologists, urban planners, and community members, they built ten new schools (and upgraded 132 more), a dozen new libraries and parks, and an expanded commuter rail system, among other projects.

Why did it work? Sergio Fajardo, the mayor, insisted that “our most beautiful buildings must be in our poorest areas.” A lot of thought went into how the architecture affects interactions between the landscape and the people—it all ties together. New York can get bogged down in bureau- cracy; look at Ground Zero! But the Medellín plan was built in four years. The city owns half of all the utilities, including gas and electric, and the mayor put the money into public projects.

Further implications: Troubled urban centers such as Detroit could benefit from this example.

Hue is always wondering what the future will be like, so we basically edible,” says Matilda McQuaid, one of the show’s curators and recognized green building certification system. Pilatowicz says Living looked for ideas recently at the Cooper-Hewitt, National head of the museum’s textiles department. She hopes visitors will find Buildings are “the next step beyond LEED”—buildings that generate Design Museum’s triennial exhibition, Why Design Now? this and other innovations in the show uplifting. (She herself loves the all their own energy with renewable resources, capture and treat  For the first time, the triennial has a predetermined eco- horsehair textile developed by Maharam, and the Neonurture, a low-cost, their own water on site, and are beautiful. She recently toured the conscious focus and an international scope. Divided into eight themes— durable neonatal incubator made from discarded vehicle parts.) water treatment center at the Omega Institute for Holistic Studies energy, mobility, community, materials, prosperity, health, communication, FIT’s design-savvy community is attuned to the kinds of develop- in Rhinebeck, NY, which may be the first completed Living Building. and simplicity—the 134 products, proposals, and messages in the exhibition ments presented in Why Design Now? Marianne Klimchuk, chair of the The triennial exhibition offers a surplus of food for thought, address the social question raised by the museum’s director, Bill Moggridge: Packaging Design Department, says sneaker companies like Puma now so we thought we’d let one of its curators and your fellow alumni “Why and how is design thinking an essential tool?” see the shoe box as a first touch point for consumers—and that sustain- select the highlights. Four graduates of FIT’s MA program now called The answer is often surprising. Who knew, for example, that a ability and reuse are becoming important considerations. Grazyna Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice work substitute for the usual polystyrene building insulation can be grown in the Pilatowicz, assistant professor of Interior Design and author of FIT’s new at the Cooper-Hewitt; on the next spread, we asked each of them gómez sergio The Orquideorama, a series of 14 interconnected, modular structures used as a public garden dark like fungus? Greensulate, created by the product development firm MA program in Sustainable Interior Environments, is excited about the to choose an object from the show and talk about why it’s his or her and event space, was one of many projects realized in the plan for Medellín, Colombia. Ecovative Design LLC, is an organic, fire-retardant board made from the roots Living Building Challenge, a proposal from the Cascadia Region of the favorite. Start there—then see the show for yourself before it closes

of mushrooms and other natural byproducts. “Rats won’t eat it, though it’s U.S. Green Building Council, which created LEED, the internationally amygellerillustration.com January 9, 2011.

10 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 11     We asked four alumni who work Susan Brown ’01 Sarah Scaturro ’06 Gregory Herringshaw ’91 assistant curator, textiles department textile conservator assistant curator, wall coverings at the Cooper-Hewitt to tell us Favorite object: “Return to Sender” artisan Favorite object: Custom wallpapers about their favorite objects from eco-casket, by Greg Holdsworth (New Zealander, by Trove (pictured, Alar 002). Randall Why Design Now? All are graduates b. 1960). New Zealand, 2007. Plywood, wool fleece. Buck (American, b. 1967) and Jee Levin (American, b. Korea, 1972). Why it’s her favorite: As a curator, you get to of the MA program now called United States, 2008–9. Inkjet on paper. learn about a particular work through extensive Fashion and Textile Studies: History, reading, studio visits, and discussion with the Why it’s his favorite: Trove is a designer—opportunities the museum visitor really young company; it started in Theory, Museum Practice. doesn’t have. This design is so visually strong 2004. The designers are a couple who that it speaks for itself. live in Chelsea. All their designs are eco-friendly. They’re printed with Materials matter: The designer’s father-in-law organic, water-soluble inks; they use was passionate about wood, yet when he died, a wax-based coating, instead of vinyl, his coffin was made of medium-density to create a washable surface; and fiberboard with plastic woodgrain laminate and they can be recycled. metal-coated plastic hardware—an insult to a man who, in life, cared deeply about the integrity And they’re beautiful, too: of materials. The eco-casket is also biodegradable The designers manipulate images and non-toxic (in the case of cremation), in Photoshop to create a sense allowing a gentler re-entry into the earth. Favorite object: Shoestring dress, by Maison Martin of movement and depth. One has Margiela Artisanal line. Martin Margiela (Belgian, b. 1957). moths that look like they’re flying Good to know: When Holdsworth’s own father France, 2009. up to the ceiling. Another features died, he wanted to sit and share a special a swinging chandelier, captured at bourbon they’d been saving, but the coffin sides Why it’s her favorite: I’m interested in innovative different points on its trajectory. were too high to see him. The low sides of materials and construction methods. This piece uses “Return to Sender” allow families to sit with an everyday object in an unconventional way to create Coming soon: The museum is their loved ones, and the curved, flexible lid is something almost couture. Plus it’s unexpected: when getting a wallpaper from a Barcelona like tucking in a blanket one last time. you first see it, you don’t even realize it’s shoelaces that company that’s an image of a are woven together at the shoulder and waist. handbag with an eyeball on it. You expect wallpaper to be warm Would it be hard to put on? No. From dressing the and welcoming, but here the wall mannequin, I can tell you that it’s like putting on a vest. is looking back at you. It’s quite And very flattering! large-scale and very surreal. Why she loves her job: Anything fashion or textile

greg holdsworth related goes through my hands. I help curators realize their vision for an exhibit, and sometimes the designers as well. But at the same time, I have the challenge of  both protecting and interpreting the objects. I recently Kimberly Randall ’03 Favorite object: Alpaca velvet sample blanket, Do you have favorite textiles in the identified the fiber in a wall covering that was made collections manager, textiles department designed and manufactured by Maharam. Cooper-Hewitt’s collection? We have close to in either the 19th or 20th century. By studying it under United States, 2009. Undyed alpaca wool, cotton, 135 Mexican samplers—pieces produced by a polarized light microscope, I determined it was natural colors. girls at schools or convents to show their viscose rayon, which wasn’t used commercially until embroidery skills. They are remarkable examples Why it’s her favorite: Well, it’s quite bold. the 20th century. of the convergence of cultures occurring over the Maharam made this sample blanket for us by centuries after the Spanish conquest. They show using nine colors of the natural alpaca wool. We

the influence of indigenous motifs, European trove have other sample blankets, but they typically pattern books, and the impact of Chinese floral have small squares of color and pattern. This motifs found on embroidered shawls brought to one is more unusual. Mexico during the height of the Manila galleon What’s special about alpaca wool? It’s incredibly trade, from the 17th to 18th century. soft and luxurious, and it’s impressive that you can get nine different colors from the breed. Maharam produces this velvet without the use of synthetic dyes or finishes so there’s less impact on the environment. matt flynn matt marina faust marina

12 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 13

1 N. Hoolywood. Men’s ensemble from the Skyscraper collection, autumn/winter 2009-10. 2 Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garçons. Ensemble, spring/summer 2001, Japan. Collection of The Museum at FIT. 3 Comme des Garçons. Dress, autumn/ winter 2009-10, Japan. Collection of The Museum at FIT.

JapanFashionNow”is”the”first”exhibition”to” explore”contemporary”Japanese”fashion”in”all” its”radical”creativityš”from”high”fashion”to”street” styleœ”The”exhibition”begins”by”revisiting”the” Japanese”“fashion”revolution””of”the”§¦ª¢sš”an” important”turning”point”in”fashion”historyœ”For”the” first”timeš”a”non-Western”culture”had”significantly” aµected”the”global”fashion”systemš”and”had”done” so”by”projecting”an”image”of”hypermodernismœ” Avant-garde”Japanese”designers”Issey”Miyakeš” Yohji”Yamamotoš”and”Rei”Kawakubo”of”Comme” des”Garçons”introduced”a”radically”new”conception” of”fashion”to”the”catwalks”of”Parisœ”It”was”not” simply”that”black”became”the”default”color”or” “deconstruction””the”word”of”the”dayœ”Utilizing” innovative”textile”technologies”along”with”aspects” of”traditional”Japanese”clothing”cultureš”these” designers”were”instrumental”in”creating”a”new” relationship”between”body”and”clothesš”a”new” JAPAN attitude”toward”the”beauty”of”imperfectionš”and” a”new”appreciation”of”fashion”as”“artœ”” FASHION Contemporary”Japanese”fashion”remains” significant”globally”precisely”because”it”mixes” NOW elements”of”the”avant-garde”(pushing”the”aesthetic” envelope”at”the”level”of”“high””art)”with”aspects”of” The Museum at FIT’s current subcultural”and”street”styleœ”But”how”has”it”evolved” in”the”¬¢-plus”years”since”the”fashion”revolution”of” exhibition explores contemporary the”§¦ª¢sš”and”who”are”the”new”Japanese”designers?” Japanese looks, from avant-garde What”is”the”role”of”Japanese”youth”fashion?”Where” 2 3 dress to street style does”Tokyo”fit”in”the”hierarchy”of”fashion’s”world” Photos: The Museum at FIT cities?”Is”Japan”still”the”future?”These”are”the” BY VALERIE STEELE questions”to”which”JapanFashionNow”provides” the”salaryman’s”classic”business”suitœ”Indeedš”some” include”Hime-Decora-kei”(princess-decoration” costume”play)”is”not”a”subcultural”or”street”styleš” a”variety”of”answersœ of”the”most”interesting”new”designers”in”Japan” style)”and”the”bohemian”MoriGirl”(forest”girl)” nor”is”it”a”type”of”fashionœ”Insteadš”it”might”be” The”exhibition”includes”a”dramatic”miseenscène” are”those”who”work”in”menswearœ”Many”of”themš” lookœ”Probably”the”most”famous”girls’”styles”are” described”as”a”kind”of”role”play”involving”dressing” that”evokes”the”famous”cityscape”of”¬§st-century” such”as”John”Lawrence”Sullivanš”Miharayasuhiroš” the”Lolitas”and”Gothic”Lolitasš”which”first”ap- up”as”charactersš”often”those”from”popular”mangaš” Tokyoœ”Approximately”¦¢”outfits”represent”diµerent” and”Phenomenonš”are”inspired”by”retro”American” peared”in”Harajukuš”Tokyo’s”fashionable”shopping” animeš”or”video”gamesœ”Tokyo’s”Akihabara” themes”and”neighborhoodsš”such”as”Omotesandoš” or”British”styles—from”punk”to”preppyš”and”from” districtš”in”the”§¦¦¢sœ”JapanFashionNow”features” neighborhood”is”a”center”of”cosplay”activityš”with” site”of”the”Comme”des”Garçons”flagship”storeœ” grunge”to”Savile”Row—but”the”result”is”as”Japanese” classic”Lolita”looks”by”famous”brands”such”as” many”cafés”where”the”waitresses”dress”as”anime” Ensembles”by”Rei”Kawakuboš”Junya”Watanabeš”and” as”Sonyœ” Angelic”Pretty”and”Babyš”The”Stars”Shine”Brightš” characters”or”Lolita-like”cat-maidsœ” Tao”Kurihara”exemplify”the”evolution”of”decon- Japan”has”some”of”the”world’s”most”exciting” and”Gothic-Punk”Lolita”styles”by”Hirooka”Naoto” One”of”the”most”fashion-forward”countries”in” struction”and”reconstructionœ”Also”featured”are”a” street”and”subcultural”stylesœ”Already”by”the”§¦³¢sš” of”hœNaotoš”including”stage”costumes”worn”by”the” the”worldš”Japan”is”also”obsessed”with”perfecting” range”of”looks”by”Jun”Takahashi”of”Undercoverš” members”of”the”Speed”Tribe”motorcycle”gangs” singers”Hangry”&”Angryœ” classic”utilitarian”garmentsš”such”as”jeansš” along”with”new”brands”such”as”Sacai”and”matohuœ had”abandoned”the”classic”biker”look”of”black” As”Japanese”pop”culture”has”swept”the”worldš” sneakersš”and”leather”jacketsœ”The”sheer”variety” Although”uniforms”and”uniformity”are”dominant” leather”jacket”and”jeans”in”favor”of”elegant”and” young”people”everywhere”read”manga”(comic” and”quality”of”Japanese”style”is”evident”everywhere” characteristics”of”their”clothing”cultureš”the” bizarre”costumes”known”as”Kamikaze”suits”and” books)š”watch”anime”(animated”film)š”and”play” you”lookœ Japanese”are”also”greatly”attracted”to”fashion”and” combat”gearœ”But”in”Japanš”rebellion”is”often”cute” computer”video”gamesœ”Contemporary”artists”have” noveltyœ”As”a”resultš”the”fashion”scene”in”Tokyo” (kawaii)œ”The”significance”of”kawaii”culture”is” also”been”inspired”by”what”Takashi”Murakami”calls” DrValerieSteeleisthedirectorandchiefcurator N. Hoolywood extends”far”beyond”the”student’s”school”uniform”or” exemplified”by”contemporary”style”tribes”that” “Japan’s”exploding”subcultureœ””Cosplay”(short”for” ofTheMuseumatFIT 1

14 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 15 in the teahouse Alexandra Alisa Moy, Hunter College student Alexa Ko, Hunter College student Christine de la Rosa, Type of Lolita: sweet/bittersweet/punk Type of Lolita: Sweet/Classic/Bittersweet Fashion Design--Illustration ’13 (and sometimes Mori) Type of Lolita: Punk

This is a very dressed-up look for me. []

On an ordinary day, would you wear jeans?

Lolita is a way for me Sure. to embrace my youth and reclaim my femininity and my modesty…. We wear the clothes for ourselves; not for the attention of men and not for the expectations of our times.

Lolita style has a lot of A “LOLITA” IDYLL IN A JAPANESE GARDEN, CAPTURED restrictions--not a lot of skin or cleavage showing, BY CHRISTOPHER HALL, PHOTOGRAPHY AND no skirts above the knee. but I like wearing skirts THE DIGITAL IMAGE ’11 a little higher, ’cause I have nice legs. Makeup: Nico Lopez

by Alex Joseph

Judy Yang, Fashion Design ’13 Skirt: Metamorphose Type of Lolita: Sweet Dress: Angelic Pretty Dress and hair ribbon: Other clothes: Hot Topic Necklace: Charlotte Russe Angelic Pretty and eBay

Stephanie Matos, Illustration ’12 Norie Ayukawa, Everyone in America is so casual Type of Lolita: Sweet It’s about being cute. ne of the stranger Hue decided to find out what American jewelry designer and I like dressing up. Wearing That’s about it. Type of Lolita: elegant Lolita, or seeing other people fashion-related subcul- Lolitas were like. We put out a casting call wearing it, makes me happy. gothic aristocratic tures explored in The for models on Facebook and around For me, this is just for Museum at FIT’s Japan campus. And lo, nearly 30 came, sporting dress-up. I’m usually more casual. Fashion Now exhibition is crinolines and festooned with pink bows. Ocalled Lolita. Like perverse Little Bo Peeps, These Lolitas shared many references: members embrace extreme femininity, the 2004 Japanese film Kamikaze Girls; including crinolines, pink bows, parasols, and the flamboyant rock band Malice Mizer; lace. (The gothic version, Goth-Loli, wears all the anime, or animated characters, on the black.) Any reference to Nabokov’s novel is TV show Sailor Moon; the fashion labels unintended; instead, they champion Rococo Angelic Pretty and Metamorphose. A book, Chicken-leather corset belt; rooster- and chicken-feather collar; and Victorian aesthetics—and anything that The Gothic and Lolita Bible, is a touchstone. hand-bustled and pleated skirt with Dress: Baby, The Stars Shine Bright can be described as “cute.” Their online community is called Elegant corset: Autumn, heartlessrevival.com Top: Charlotte Russe (Autumn studied styling at FIT.) Lolita style can be seen as a form of Gothic & Lolita: http://community.livejournal. Jewelry: model’s own, hydesvice.com I researched Lolitas youth rebellion. “In Japan, rebellion is often com/egl. We chose eight of them, and one for a class project. Whitney Newman, Fashion Design ’12 cute (kawaii),” writes Valerie Steele, director perfect day, the group set out for the I like the idea of Type of Lolita: Goth/Punk Camille Ford, Cosmetics and being able to dress up and go crazy on of the museum and curator of the exhibition. Brooklyn Botanic Garden, where student Fragrance Marketing ’11 the weekend. And The look first appeared in the ’90s in hip Christopher Hall ’11 photographed them Type of Lolita: “Kuro/Black I like cute things. Japanese neighborhoods like Harajuku. in the Japanese Hill-and-Pond Garden. (usually a ‘twin style’ with an all-white counterpart)” In the past 60 years, Japanese youth often Why become a Lolita? The answers, I’m pretty low-maintenance, but I’ll include aspects of adopted Western fashions; however, “the reproduced here, were as varied as the Lolita in all my looks. It’s an escape from reality to wear [] girl subcultures in Japan in the 1990s and looks. The style has branched out from something fantastical. 2000s have had few connections with classic to gothic, punk, and even “nature You a big Tim Burton fan? Western counterparts…[and are] freed from girl”—Mori Lolita. No single trait defines the

Yeah. the inferiority complex,” Hiroshi Narumi, an group, and in their determination to redefine associate professor at the Kyoto University “girlishness,” they can be proudly defiant. of Art and Design, writes in the show’s As Christine de la Rosa ’13 put it, “We wear catalogue. Smitten with Japanese manga a look that is frilly and feminine and often Dress: Bodyline Skirt/petticoat: Betsey Johnson Accessories: Betsey Johnson Blouse: H&M. Shoes: Demonia (comic books), video game characters, and cute, sometimes demure and ladylike, but Top: various vintage pieces and Forever 21 Hat: “My mom got this. I’m not sure Skirts: Free People, Forever 21 Hair and shoe bows: Her own where it’s from.” the theatricality of gothic fashion, the girls the personality hidden under our petticoats Shoes: Jeffrey Campbell

Assistants: Julianna Dow, Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice ’08, and Andrew Emma, Photography and the Digital Image ’11 and the Digital Emma, Photography ’08, and Andrew Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice and Textile Fashion Julianna Dow, Assistants: have turned urban streets into stages. could very well surprise you.”

16 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 17 MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE LAB FAB

The”Power” Douglas”Bender”’¢³”helps”tell” For”Rebecca”Heck”’¢³š”when”the” of”Ten the”story”of”fragrance chemistry’s”rightš”the”rewards”are”sweet COSMETICS AND FRAGRANCE MASTER’S Douglas Bender calls himself a Every month, 8,000 samples pass Fragrance development managers fragrance activist, and it’s easy to see through the fragrance labs that help determine precisely what “more

PROGRAM MARKS TEN YEARS OF SUCCESS why. Bender, who always knew he Rebecca Heck runs in New York City fun” might mean; research chemists insights from the classroom and beyond ” wanted to go into perfumery, has for the Swiss-based fragrance house search for novel ways of turning raw worked in virtually every facet of Firmenich. A chemist who previously materials, like grapefruit, into bottled FIT’sgraduateprograminCosmeticsandFragranceMarketing” the industry, running quality control for investigated hair shine for L’Oréal scents. “That’s our specialty—new and”Management”has”much”to”celebrateœ”For”ten”yearsš”it”has”been” raw materials supplier Citrus & Allied and Colgate, Heck still gets directly smells that no one else has come up Essences, establishing a gas chroma- involved in developing and testing with yet,” Heck says. preparing”talented”mid-level”managers”in”the”beauty”business”for” tography lab for Victoria’s Secret new fragrances for Firmenich’s clients. The applications lab then blends positions”of”senior”leadershipœ”Through”the”support”of”corporate” Beauty, and assisting iconic “noses” But as director of technical develop- the oils into products, like perfumes partners”ranging”from”Chanel”to”Procter”&”Gamble”(many”firmsš” like Yves de Chirin (Thierry Mugler’s ment for fine fragrance, North and shower gels. Next comes stability though”competitorsš”have”joined”forces”to”aid”the”program)”students” Angel) and Yann Vasnier (Marc America, she is primarily responsible testing. Samples are stored for weeks Jacobs’s Lola) at fragrance houses for shepherding all of the company’s at various temperatures to ensure benefit”from”executive”mentorsš”overseas”market”exposure”through” Quest and Givaudan. And all of this fine fragrances from initial concept to that after sitting on the shelf the study”in”Parisš”Londonš”Shanghaiš”and”Tokyoš”and”personalized” before he came to FIT. manufacture to store shelves. product “still looks and smells good.” career”planningœ”The”program’s”§°¢”graduates”have”capitalized” But Bender is also committed to It’s a complex process, with Heck recalls how a client once on”their”knowledgeš”skillsš”and”industry”connections”to”boost”their” restoring fragrance to what he says is millions of dollars on the line. But blended a Firmenich fragrance into an its historic role as something more than Heck, who is also a founding co-chair untested body powder. “Within three careers”(at”least”¬¢”have”been”promoted”to”corporate”vice”president)œ an accessory. “Today, fashion leads of the alumni association for the days, it was rancid,” says Heck, who

The”program”is”also”a”think”tank”for”the”industryœ”Students” fragrance,” he says. “But that wasn’t MPS in Cosmetics and Fragrance was called in to fix the problem. Matthew Septimus present”their”research”to”an”industry”audience”that”reached”³¢¢” always true. There was a time when Marketing and Management, savors It’s rigorous, technically demand- this”yearœ”“They”take”a”deep”dive”into”critical”issuesš”and”come” fragrance led fashion.” Bender wants the combination of hard science and ing work. But it also requires creative that time to come again. big business. “I get to do chemistry,” thinking and the ability to deal with Metamorphosis back”with”a”fresh”perspectiveš””says”program”chair”Stephan”Kanlianš” To that end, he founded a consul- she says, “but I also get to see a whole clients. That’s fine with Heck, who noting”that”some”companiesš”including”Estée”Lauder”and”L’Oréalš” tancy to “create fragrances that make Also a filmmaker, Bender prepared side of the business that most people studied film at NYU after earning Stephan Kanlian, chairperson, are”using”alumni”to”form”their”own”internal”think”tanksœ”In”additionš” a statement”—a broad mandate that video presentations to help celebrate never see.” her chemistry degree, and considers Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management MPS the”program”sponsors”high-level”conferences”and”lecturesš”including” covers everything from product the tenth anniversary of the MPS in Clients typically select fragrances herself both a right- and left-brain development to online marketing, to Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing from a list of options provided by person. “There are a lot of very joint”alumni”breakfasts”with”the”Jay”Hœ”Baker”Retailing”Initiative”at” establish strong, distinctive brands and Management. One of these, which Firmenich’s perfumers, or “noses,” creative people in this industry, but Asourstudentsgothroughtheprogramˆ”they”undergo”a”metamor- the”Wharton”Schoolœ that command attention. premiered at the anniversary breakfast then request modifications—like it’s still a business, and you need to phosisš”especially”through”their”capstone”research”projectœ”My”favorite” Tenth-anniversary”events”included”a”conference”on”retail”engage- Bender is developing his own on September 22, is based on eight making the juice, as fragrance is be using both sides of your brain example”of”this”is”the”key”moment”when”they”realize”they”have” ment”with”Whartonš”a”brainstorm”on”product”innovation”led”by” fragrance line, Christopher Street, months’ worth of interviews with known in the trade, “more fun,” or constantly.” become”the”expertsš”and”they”are”teaching”the”industryœ”This”was” which he hopes to launch this year. students, alumni, and industry leaders; adding a “grapefruit note.” The juice really”proved”starting”with”the”class”of”’¢³š”which”did”a”study”on”the” design”giant”IDEO”and”videotaped”for”the”WWD”CEO”Summitš”a” Meanwhile, through his consulting its themes are education, leadership, recipes then go to the chemists and global”luxury”consumerš”sponsored”by”LVMH”Moët”Hennessy”Louis” tribute”to”ten”alumni”at”the”Fragrance”Foundation’s”FiFi”Awards” work, he is helping to change the way and innovation. technicians in Heck’s creation lab, Vuittonœ”The”research”was”mentored”by”IDEOš”the”global”design”and” breakfastš”and”a”panel”discussion”featured”in”WWDš”which”launched” the fragrance industry is perceived Fortunately, the fragrance industry which produces oils for everything innovation”firmš”and”included”a”trip”to”Chinaœ”The”students”explored” L’Oréal’s”studyš”§¢¢š¢¢¢”Years”of”Beautyœ by the wider world. For example, seems big enough, and broad enough, from cologne to body powder. how”the”Louis”Vuitton”brand”could”take”the”leadš”creating”a”market” he was responsible for bringing the to accommodate even this activist’s To”cap”oµ”the”anniversary”yearš”®°¢”alumni”and”executives” that”didn’t”yet”exist”in”China–”luxury”lifestyleœ”They”recommended”that” Fragrance Foundation and its coveted boundless energy. “There’s room LV’s”flagship”stores”in”China”establish”global”lifestyle”centersš”oµering” gathered”to”honor”Linda”Wellsš”editor”of”Allureš”and”Marc”Pritchardš” FiFi Awards into the realm of social for everyone out there,” he says. “It’s art”exhibitionsš”wine”tastingsš”jewelry”and”luggage”craft”exhibitionsš” global”marketing”and”brand”building”oÆcer”at”Procter”&”Gambleœ” media and the blogosphere. just about finding your place, and and”cultural”events”to”educate”newly”wealthy”consumers”about”the” “It”was”a”celebration”for”the”whole”industryš””Kanlian”saysœ”“It”is” “The Fragrance Foundation had your voice.” been industry- rather than consumer- luxury”lifestyleœ”Building”on”the”travel”and”voyage”history”of”the”LV” a”unique”industry”that”works”together”to”train”future”leaders”and” focused,” Bender says. “I set up a blog, brandš”they”also”suggested”a”concierge”travel”serviceœ”To”instill”pride” innovative”business”models”for”growthœ” gave them a presence on MySpace in”Chinese”consumersš”they”proposed”that”LV”create”“indigenous” — AlexanderGelfand and Facebook, and pumped out to product””by”Chinese”designers”available”exclusively”in”China—which” consumers what the FiFi Awards were because”of”limited”availability”would”become”objects”of”desire”around” and why the foundation was important.” the”worldœ”The”research”was”presented”by”FIT”and”IDEO”at”the” For more on the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Through initiatives such as inviting American”Express”Luxury”Summitœ”Three”years”laterš”some”luxury” program, including video, go to fitnyc.edu/cfmm. consumers to vote for fragrance of the brandsš”like”Hermès”and”LVš”are”doing”exactly”what”the”research” year (previously, only industry members suggestedœ”Our”students”do”indeed”become”expertsœ”They”enter”the” voted), Bender gave people “a connec- program”with”intellect”and”talentš”and”are”completely”transformed” tion they would not ordinarily have to by”the”time”they”graduate”into”confident”and”innovative”leadersœ”The” that world.” metamorphosis”is”a”joy”to”watchœ”” Photos: Leo Sorel

18 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 19 Lovers solid pumps, perfume; or half-ounce of bottles, fragrance oils. aHarajuku samples Terzi Opposite: office. NJ, Plains, Morris her in Terzi 20 “ A”good”sense”of”smell”is”some- you”learn”the”accordsœ First”you”learn”the”notesœ”Then” saysœ”“It’s”like”learning”musicœ” thing”you”can”acquireš””Terzi” Ana PalomboAna Terzi, Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management ’06, makes sense of scents hue hue | fall 2010 ” Nose J

under”Terzi’s”nose”before”it”enters”the”UœSœ”marketplaceœ deodorantœ”And”every”one”of”the”thousands”developed”each”year”must”pass” of”scented”products”that”range”from”Chloé”perfume”to”Adidas-branded” in”§¦¢©š”posts”about”È©”billion”in”annual”pro each”dayœ”Cotyš”a”cosmetics”and”fragrance”manufacturer”founded”in”France” colognesš”lipsticksš”creamsš”aftershavesš”soapsš”powdersš”and”body”sprays” NJš”buildingš”whereš”by”her”own”lowball”estimateš”she”smells”§°¢”oilsš” oÆce-slash-laboratory”on”the”second”floor”of”the”company’s”Morris”Plainsš” Ana”Palombo”Terziš”senior”fragrance”evaluator”for”Cotyš”works”in”an” Terzi”calls”herself”“a”fragrance”aficionada”œÇ” hyperventilate”a”bit”and”your”nose”clears”upœ” “I’ll”run”up”and”down”the”stairsš””she”saysœ”“You” demanding”daysš”when”a”sleeve-sniµ”is”not”enoughš” equivalent”of”a”palate”cleanserœ”On”especially” between”samples”to”sniµ”her”sleeve—the”olfactory” products”in”quick”successionš”Terzi”will”pause” her”body’s”pheromonesœ”When”smelling”several” wrists”or”neck”and”observes”its”interactions”with” paper—to”her”homeš”where”she”wears”it”on”her” it”is”customarily”sampled”on”strips”of”blotting” weekš”taking”it”from”the”sterility”of”the”lab—where” Sometimesš”she”will”smell”a”product”for”a”full” shipped”or”stored”in”less-than-ideal”conditionsœ” be”sure”that”they”will”remain”stable”even”if” have”been”exposed”to”extreme”heat”and”lightš”to” formula’s”scentœ”She”smells”products”after”they” the”pump’s”plastic”straw”and”spray”headš”alter”the” whether”any”of”the”packaging’s”componentsš”like” in”the”containers”they”will”be”sold”inš”to”test” Terzi”smells”products”after”they’ve”been”stored” pharmaceutical”science”and”biochemistry”and” where”Terzi”was”born”and”raisedš”she”studied” professional”outlet”for”her”passionœ”In”Brazilš” few”years”into”her”career”before”she”found”a” smelling”the”fruits”and”vegetablesœ””But”she”was”a” Wherever”I”goš”I’m”crushing”and”smelling”leavesš” by Herbowy Greg ob to”match”the”fragrances”by”comparing”notesœ” the”scienti fi the” familiarize”her”with”fragrance”development”and” aromas”with”a”perfumerš”to”train”her”nose”and” as”a”specialty-bath-product”developer”at”Avonœ” careerš”that”she”first”began”working”in”fragrancesš” and”her”husband”moved”to”New”Jersey”for”his” makeup”pencilsœ”It”wasn’t”until”¬¢¢§š”after”she” spent”time”developing”colors”for”Faber-Castell’s” Jœ”After”each”had”smelled”her”setš”they”would”try” randomly”labeled”§”through”§¢š”the”other”A”through” a”set”of”the”same”ten”fragrancesœ”One”would”be” gameœ”She”and”a”fellow”student”would”each”be”given” fumer”called”Battleshipš”after”the”popular”board” shavingsœ’””One”exerciseš”Terzi’s”favoriteš”the”per- woodš”I”wouldn’t”say”‘cedar”woodš’”I’d”say”‘pencil” to”think”up”adjectivesœ”So”if”I”was”smelling”cedar” fragrances’”raw”materialsš””she”saysœ”“I”would”have” for”her”workdayœ”“He”didn’t”want”me”to”name”the” describing”themš”before”returning”to”New”Jersey” perfumer’s”laboratoryš”smelling”scents”and” commute”to”Manhattan”to”spend”an”hour”at”the” for”four”yearsš”Terzi”would”wake”up”predawn”and” terms”of”colorš”tasteš”or”even”touchœ”Once”a”week” on”olfactory”termsš”aromas”are”often”described”in” Thereš”Terzi’s”bosses”arranged”for”her”to”study” eld’s”terminologyš”which”runs”the”gamut”from” fi tsš”³¢”percent”of”it”from”sales” fi c”to”the”fanciful—since”English”is”short” ” ”

Joanne Chan what”Coty”is”looking”for—the”product’s”target” developsš”it”creates”a”briefš”a”document”outlining” we”now”have”access”to”maybe”§¢¢œ””” “it’d”be”between” housesœ”“If”we”had”a”perfumery”teamš””Smith”saysš” access”by”working”with”independent”fragrance” to”match”the”depth”of”talent”the”company”can” operationš”it”would”be”diÆcultš”if”not”impossibleš” Even”if”Coty”were”to”invest”in”an”in-house” to”maintain”largeš”costly”ingredient”inventoriesœ” a”whole”infrastructure”for”itœ””Perfumers”also”need” for”research”and”developmentœ”“You”have”to”build” specializedš””says”Leslie”Smithš”vice”president” of”its”fragrances”in”houseœ”“Perfumery”is”very” manufacturers”in”businessš”Coty”develops”none” privilege”of”smelling”only”the”bad”stuµœ” never”reject”on”one”noseœ”I”have”the”unique” developmentš”and”testingš”soš”Welsh”saysš”“We” represents”substantial”investments”in”researchš” of”her”directorš”Laurie”Welshœ”Each”new”formula” rancidityš”or”metal—she”will”solicit”the”opinion” an”oµ-noteš”most”commonly”a”whiµ”of”vinegarš” unstable—if”it”loses”potency”too”quickly”or”develops” perception”and”description”of”fragrancesœ” reference”and”studyš”the”better”to” Madagascarš”and”so”onœ”She”keeps”these”for” darkens”solutions)š”French”vanillaš”vanilla”from” formulated”for”colorless”products”(vanilla”normally” several”variations”of”a”noteœ”There”is”a”vanilla” scent”it”containsœ”In”some”instancesš”she”has” each”labeled”with”the”raw”material”or”single-note” of”notes–”topš”middleš”dryœ are”typically”described”as”three”successive”groups” grapefruitš”and”orangeš”for”exampleœ””Fragrances” accord”can”be”made”with”notes”of”bergamotš” together”to”create”a”new”odor”identityœ”A”citrus” combinations”of”three”or”more”notes”“that”blend” black”pepperš”kumquatš”caramelœ”Accords”are” Notesš”in”fragrance-speakš”are”single”aromas–”roseš” you”learn”the”notesœ”Then”you”learn”the”accordsœ”” acquireš””Terzi”saysœ”“It’s”like”learning”musicœ”First” the”trendsœ” is”marketed”and”advertisedš”and”what”determines” and”the”business”side”of”beauty—how”a”fragrance” I”came”to”FIT”to”better”understand”the”marketing” I”learned”the”creative”side”from”the”perfumerœ” ground”from”my”undergraduate”education”and” study”of”the”industryœ”“I”had”the”science”back sional”Studies”programš”for”a”more”comprehensive” Marketing”and”Management”Master”of”Profes she”enrolled”in”FIT’s”Cosmetics”and”Fragrance” Insteadš”for”each”new”scent”the”company” Despite”being”one”of”the”largest”fragrance” During”testingš”if”Terzi”suspects”a”fragrance”is” In”her”labš”Terzi”stores”dozens”of”tiny”vialsš” “A”good”sense”of”smell”is”something”you”can” In”¬¢¢®š”Terzi”joined”Cotyœ”The”following”yearš” fi ve”and”ten”perfumersš”whereas” fi ne-tune”her” - -

specifi market-ready”preparation—but”never”prescribing” which”is”how”the”industry”refers”to”a”fragrance’s” art”and”designš”even”the”intended”color”of”the”juiceš” audience”and”brand”identityš”correlative”trends”in” a”collection”of”the”fragrance”houses’”best-testing” Terzi”to”create”and”maintain”an”internal”libraryš” eat”up”three”months”or”moreœ”So”in”¬¢¢°š”he”asked” of”the”usual”yearš”and”testing”a”new”fragrance”can” a”contracted”timeframeš”maybe”six”months”instead” periodically”creates”and”rolls”out”a”product”within” these”orphaned”candidatesš”especially”since”Coty” even”the”chosen”fragranceœ” canceled”for”business”reasonsš”which”strands” enallyœ””Sometimes”the”intended”product”is” his”childhoodœ”And”it”ended”up”selling”phenom “But”Thierry”insisted”on”itœ”It”reminded”him”of” a”praline”note”that”was”polarizingš””Terzi”saysœ” preferred”anotherœ”“Angel”by”Thierry”Mugler”has” scores”high”in”consumer”testing”but”the”celebrity” nothing”to”do”with”its”qualityœ”Sometimes”it” Oftenš”the”reason”a”candidate”is”set”aside”has” involved”in”the”development”processš””Terzi”saysœ for”feedback”and”for” the”viable”candidates”are”submitted”to”him”or”herš” Jennifer”Lopez”andš”beginning”in”¬¢§¬š”Lady”Gaga— actresses”like”Halle”Berryš”and”performers”like” fragrances”made”for”designers”like”Marc”Jacobsš” celebrity’s”name—some”of”Coty’s”bestsellers”are” stabilityœ”If”the”product”is”to”be”released”under”a” appealš”and”by”Terzi”and”Welsh”for”olfactory” and”microbiologist”for”safetyš”by”consumers”for” candidates”arriveš”they”are”tested”by”a”toxicologist” considerationœ”Several”weeks”laterš”when”the” candidatesš”in”the”form”of”undiluted”oilsš”for” many”as”four”fragrance”housesš”which”create” on”their”palette”at”allœ””Coty”sends”its”brief”to”as” “Perfumers”are”artistsœ”We”don’t”want”to”intrude” To”Leslie”Smithš”it”seemed”a”waste”to”discard” Invariablyš”this”process”results”in”leftoversœ” c”aromasœ”“That”is”sacrilegeš””Terzi”saysœ” fi nal”sayœ”“They”are”highly”

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mixing”the”solutionœ”It”also”includes”an”open” and”use”level—the”amount”of”oil”to”be”used”when” of”originš”date”of”creationš”consumer”test”scoreš” grance’s”entry”listing”its”initial”purposeš”house” database”on”Coty’s”internal”websiteš”each”fra to”marketing”for”time-sensitive”projectsœ” unused”oils”that”she”can”choose”from”to”submit” worldš””she”saysœ”“It’s”so”malleableœ” brandingœ”“English”is”the”best”language”in”the” comš”writing”about”the”industry’s”trends”and” In”her”spare”timeš”she”freelances”for”Brandchannelœ description–”“I”get”to”sit”and”smell”and”daydreamœ”” challenge”of”crafting”a”succinctš”memorable” Terzi’s”favorite”part”of”the”jobœ”She”enjoys”the” topš”middleš”and”dry”notesœ”Writing”this”last”bit”is” discusses”the”conceptš”and”a”rundown”of”the” where”Terzi”suggests”potential”applications”and” “For”my”own”delightœ”” before”its”sell-date”passedœ” floral””that”she”submitted”for”several”projects” particularš”“a”beautifulš”sparklingš”cleanš”abstract” But”they”didn’t”go”unlovedœ”Terzi”recalls”one”in” governed”by”ever-changing”moods”and”tastesœ” obsolescenceš”unavoidable”losses”in”an”industry” Terzi’s”libraryœ”About”§¢¢”more”have”aged”into” ¬¢¢°œ”The”trends”have”moved”onœ” ers”will”not”like”to”see”that”a”candidate”is”from” that”the”older”ones”have”gone”badš”but”the”market to”pull”anything”more”than”four”years”oldœ”“It’s”not” selection”to”make”sure”it”covers”a”broad”range”and” problems”ariseœ”Every”yearš”she”reviews”the” further”testing”should”any”consumer”or”production” fragrance”on”the”UœSœ”marketš”kept”on”hand”for” than”¬š¢¢¢”quarter-ounce”samples”of”every”Coty” in”Terzi’s”oÆceš”where”they”share”space”with”more” glass”bottles”of”oilsš”are”stored”in”two”refrigerators” The”library’s”catalogue”exists”as”a”searchable” “I”still”have”a”pump”of”it”in”the”fridgeš””she”saysœ” To”dateš”Coty”has”made”use”of”©¢”entries”from” The”library’s”archivesš”roughly”§¬¢”half-ounce” www.fitnyc.edu/ hue -

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- 21 The two sides of ROBERT VERDI, Jewelry Design ’88, envisioned by ROBERT MEND OLIA, Photography ’03 and Fashion Design ’86

B y ALEX JOSEPH

TASTEMAKER AND STYLIST ROBERT VERDI HAS TWO SIDES. ONE’S NICE; THE OTHER … NOT SO MUCH. In person, he’s a doll. He lounges in socks in his casual Hell’s Kitchen oÆces, petting his one-eyed dog Winky, discussing his role as a judge on She’s Got the Look, TV Land’s model competition for women over 35, and describing a space he designed for the Kips Bay Show House. He’s a great stylist. Comedian and friend Kathy GriÆn says Verdi does things for her that no one else can, like “put me on the best-dressed list. Get me positive mentions in the magazines for once. Get me amazing one-of-a-kind couture pieces that fit my body at an incredible price. I believe there is a gay mafia,” she adds. “I believe he is a member.” When he shows oµ his fashion closet, full of everything from Richard Prince-styled bags to Versace pants (fave item: Dior jackets), Verdi also points out the hundreds of pieces set aside for donation to Housing Works, an organization that fights homelessness and AIDS. In a certain light, he’s almost angelic. But then there’s his other side.

22 hue | fall 2010 On The Robert Verdi Show, a out Robert Mendolia ’03, who the early ’00s, he returned to study faux-reality program broadcast regularly shoots for Bloomingdale’s photography. Starting a second last year on Logo (and still stream- and macys.com, and is making a career was hard, he says, but “the ing from the network’s site), Verdi’s name for himself in men’s fashion funny thing was, I actually had a id ran wild. Like a berserk Lucy editorial. One feature based on great time at FIT. And a lot of those Ricardo, he forced his sweet-seem- men’s cologne for the international students and I are still friends.” ing sta”, whom he referred to as publication reFRESH used digitally Among those friends are, in fact, “bitches,” to launch dozens of manipulated images and illustra- the digital technician on this shoot, terrible projects, all prominently tion. It was a hit. For a follow-up, Sean Waltrous ’02, and photo featuring Verdi—a mall shaped he crafted images of male models assistant Michael Stewart ’10. like a giant “V,” a TV network of to give them articulated robot Featuring designs by alumni and Verdi-centric programming, an limbs; the results were published recent graduates, these pages are invention called “Youth in Eyes” in three di”erent places—the a full showcase of FIT talent. (sunglasses that squirt lotion on Canadian publication Zink, the Looking at the image on this your face). Though the concepts Australian Cream, and Bello, which spread, it’s comforting to know weren’t real, the VPs he pitched appears online. the real Verdi is a cuddly kitten. them to were, and watching them, Mendolia loved the Hue project. Well, maybe not entirely. Asked you wondered if they understood Photographs by Bruce Weber and what he’d be wearing if they met that Verdi was ridiculing his own Herb Ritts have a signature look, in the afterlife, Gri§n said, “Louis narcissism. At one point, he forced he says, but he wants to avoid that: Vuitton’s skin à la the killer in The a young intern who didn’t want to “I always want to be able to come Silence of the Lambs. Ok, that’s a sign a release form to wear a paper up with something new, not dated.” little dark. Let’s just go with he’d bag over her head. Evil. He adds that Verdi “was extremely be wearing something ahead of the Hue decided to photograph laid-back and easy to work with.” f***ing curve, or he’d fire everyone Verdi’s two sides. With a tip from Shooting in the FIT studios was like else in hell.” Gulp. Photography faculty member coming home again; he already had Deborah Klesenski, we sought a Fashion Design degree when, in

Digital tech: Sean Waltrous ’02; Photo assistant: Michael Stewart ’10; Stylist: René Garza; “Angel” image: cable sweater by Andrew Buckler; pants by Anthony Caputo, Menswear ’91, design director for Li & Fung; “Evil”: top by Carlos Campos, who studied Fashion Design at FIT; wool pants by Jo Hwang, Menswear ’10. Saying Yes to Rugs Meet”the”winner”of”FIT’s”Axminster” carpet”competition

floored Vanessa De Sousa started her Katalin”Laszloš”TextileÎSurface”Design”’¢°š” education at a liberal arts college, designs”exquisite”rugs”for”Safavieh but she says, “I felt a void without art.” She came to FIT for Textile/Surface by Alex Joseph Design. “But I never thought carpets would be something I enjoyed until I tried it.” Last fall, she won first place and $1,000 in FIT’s Axminster carpet design competition for her trio of thematically linked styles. The challenge was to create designs for signature, small-, and “It’s all color, patternš”and”textureš””Katalin”Laszlo”says”of”her”work”as” large-scale rugs, using “global unity” designer”and”project”manager”for”Safaviehš”a”rug”manufacturer”and”importerœ”“A”big”chunk”of”my”job”” as a motif. De Sousa ’10 thought of is”working”with”Jamie”Drakeš”Martha”Stewartš”and”other”designers”to”make”sure”the”final”products” a friend who was serving in the Peace Corps in Mozambique, and started match”the”original”conceptsœ”“Most”of”them”are”very”hands-onš””Laszlo”saysš”though”some”more”than” researching African imagery. Woven othersœ”“I’m”on”a”design”team”that”is”involved”from”the”beginning”of”design”development”all”the”way” rugs, tapestries, sculptures, and through”to”every”finished”pieceœ” masks featured in her exploration, Each”project”is”diµerentœ”Drakeš”for”exampleš”provides”inspirational”ideasš”such”as”fabricsš”colorsš” and resulted in the geometric patterns or”images”from”booksœ”Laszlo”and”her”team”interpret”this”directionš”request”samples”of”the”designs” in her signature rug. An early version from”Safavieh’s”mills”overseasš”then”tweak”the”piece”with”Drake’s”assistanceœ”Thomas”O’Brienš”on”the” of her small-scale rug had teal in it. “I wanted to get the color right,” she other”handš”sends”a”binder”of”specifics”for”each”rugœ”Martha”Stewart’s”color”sense”is”quite”diµerent” says, because as Adjunct Instructor from”Drake’sœ”He’s”famous”for”his”ebullient”palette´”hers”is”more”subduedœ”“Stewart”is”a”lot”less”likely” Deborah Hernandez reminded her, to”use”redš””Laszlo”saysš”though”she”is”quick”to”add”that”there”are”some”reds”in”Stewart’s”Safavieh” “Color sells.” (At Hernandez’s sugges- collectionœ”Laszlo”is”particularly”proud”of”the”Stewart”collaborationš”which”she”has”overseen”since”its” tion, she took out the teal.) The large launch”in”¬¢¢žœ” rug needed to have roundels—the Axminster trademark. De Sousa Working”with”overseas”factories”is”part”of”the”challengeœ”“The”CAD”is”really”just”a”directionš””she” thought of elephants. “They’re a saysœ”One”Stewart”design”was”sent”to”Tibetš”Nepalš”and”Indiaš”and”each”vendor”interpreted”it”diµer- symbol of global unity and power,” entlyœ”The”quality”and”variety”of”woolš”vegetable”versus”synthetic”dyesš”and”type”of”finish”are”factors” she says. So she drew a ring of them, Laszlo”considers”when”determining”where”to”produceœ”“India”can”do”beautiful”finishesš””she”saysœ” their trunks touching. The judges “They”can”give”a”piece”a”distressed”lookš”but”some”customers”don’t”understand”that”aestheticœ”They” were wowed. complain”that”the”rug”is”more”faded”on”one”side”than”the”otherœ”” Safavieh”Couture”designer”rugs”are”high”endš”and”thus”made”in”Nepalœ”Safavieh”also”manufac- tures”in”China”and”Pakistanš”but”almost”all”designers”prefer”the”look”and”feel”of”the”rugs”from”Nepalš” which”Laszlo”says”is”known”for”“qualityš”detailš”and”great”workmanshipœ””Prices”for”finished”rugs—the” company”operates”ten”stores”in”the”UœSœ”and”showrooms”in”New”Yorkš”Atlantaš”and”Las”Vegas—vary” widelyœ”Handmade”rugs”designed”by”Drakeš”Stewartš” or”David”Easton”can”run”Èž¢”per”square”foot”retailš” though” Stewart” and” Thom” Filicia” also” create” hand- tufted”piecesš”which”start”at”ȧ°”per”footœ ””Originally”from”Romaniaš”Laszlo”came”to”FIT” after”her”sisterš”who”lived”in”New”Yorkš”scouted”design” schools”for”herœ”After”taking”a”rug”design”class”with” Deborah” Hernandezš” adjunct” instructor” of” TextileÎ Surface”Designš”Laszlo”knew”what”she”wanted”to”doœ” Safavieh”is”her”first”job”out”of”college´”she”found”the” listing”through”FIT’s”career”servicesœ”Nowš”whenever” she”goes”back”to”her”apartmentš”she”thinks”of”her”pas- sion”when”she”steps”on”a”hand-knotted”Tibetan”rugœ” Did”she”design”it”herself?”Laszlo”smiles”a”littleœ”“I”was”

Nick Parisse, Photography and the Digital Image ’09 and the Digital Photography Nick Parisse, involved”in”its”designš””she”saysœ Laszlo, above, developed the hand-tufted peony rug, De Sousa’s large- (top) and opposite, for Neiman Marcus. It was inspired by Chinese small-scale carpet designs. fabric and made in China.

26 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 27 1965 A VISION IN WHITE 1991 THE GREENEST LINK LESLEE CARLSON BREENE, FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND ADVERTISING BERNICE AUERBACH MAXMAN, APPAREL DESIGN TRACY MONAT SANO, MARKETING: FASHION AND RELATED INDUSTRIES, STACIE WICKHAM SHEPP, FASHION BUYING AND MERCHANDISING ’92 DESIGN,”is”an”award-winning” AND FASHION BUYING MERCHANDISING ’58 FASHION BUYING AND MERCHANDISING ’89,”and”her”husband”John” Western-romance”writer”with” (a”School”of”Continuing”and”Professional”Studies”alumnus)” several”short”stories”and”four” run”Sano”Design”Servicesš”a”CAD”service”bureau”that” new media for sustainable brands novels—FoxfireLeadvilleLady delivers”digitally”printed”prototypes” HeartsontheWindš”and”the” of”garmentsš”patternsš”and”textiles” forthcoming”StarlightRescue” within”¬©”hoursœ”The”two”also”recently” (Treble”Heartš”¬¢§§)—under” founded”EzTextilesœcomš”which” her”beltœ”For”inspiration”and” oµers”¬°”million”production-ready” researchš”Breene”visits”old” CAD”imagesœ

pioneer”towns”in”her”home” Don Jackson state”of”Coloradoœ””” Shepp with her husband (and co-worker), Joey. Hearts on the Wind (Five Star Expressions, 2008). JOANNE COUGHLIN WALSH, StacieShepptookaslightlyroundaboutroute”from”FIT”grad”to”green”entrepre- PACKAGING DESIGN, ADVERTIS- 1969 neurœ”She”spent”her”¬¢s”designing”costumes”for”theatrical”companies”including”the” ING DESIGN ’89,”is”the”senior” NADINE CINO, APPAREL DESIGN,”is”founder”and”owner”of” San”Francisco”Operaš”taking”a”BA”in”costume”designš”and”toiling”as”a”seamstress”and” graphic”artist”at”the”Staten Tyga-Boxš”which”produces”a”reusable”plastic”box”and”dolly” manager”of”a”custom”corsetry”and”bridal”boutiqueœ”But”after”¦Î§§š”she”began”to”think” IslandAdvanceš”the” system”meant”to”replace”disposable”cardboard”moving” diµerently”about”her”career–”“I”thought”maybe”there’s”something”else”out”there”with” borough’s”daily”paperœ”She” news from your classmates your news from boxesœ”Tyga-Boxš”whose”clients”include”Citigroup”and” a”bigger”purpose—and”that’s”more”aligned”with”my”valuesœ” creates”hand-drawn”and” Chevronš”won”a”¬¢¢¦”Green”Business”Best”Practice”Award” A”visit”to”the”San”Francisco”Green”Festival”inspired”a”full-blown”eco-epiphanyœ” Photoshop”illustrations”for” from”the”NewYorkEnterpriseReportš”and”has”saved”an” She”pursued”an”MBA”in”sustainable”enterprise”at”Dominican”Universityš”where” all”of”its”sectionsš”and”has” estimated”¬œ°”million”trees”since”§¦¦§œ” she”found”both”her”calling”and”her”husbandš”with”whom”she”founded”eco-savvy” received”awards”from”the” new-media”agency”Earthsiteœ”Based”in”Fairfaxš”CAš”the”eight-person”marketing”firm” Art”Directors”Club”of”New” 1975 develops”websites”and”media”platformsš”builds”brandš”and”crafts”business”plans”for” Jersey”and”the”Associated” DEBORAH KRUGER, TEXTILE DESIGN,”has” WhenBerniceAuerbachMaxmangotmarriedon”July”¬¦š§¦°žš”she”wore”a”dress” sustainable”clients”like”Organic”Leatherš”a”purveyor”of”vegetable-tanned”hidesš”for” retired”from”the”medical”billing” Pressœ”Walsh”previously” by”an”up-and-coming”designer–”herselfœ”“It”was”eggshell”silk”organza”lined”with”plain” which”she”set”up”wholesalingš”produced”a”runway”showš”and”advised”on”an”accessories” company”she”founded”to”work” worked”as”a”product” silk”taµetaš””she”saysœ”“It”had”bias-cut”sleeves”and”a”fullš”gathered”bodice”that”came” lineœ”For”the”interactive”website”YourGardenShowœcom—a”sort”of”Facebook”for”the” full”time”as”an”artistœ”Krugerš”who” designer”for”Target”and”a” to”a”pointœ”I’m”short”so”the”dress”had”to”make”me”look”taller—which”it”didœ””A”creative” green-thumb”set—Earthsite”manages”press”and”blogger”outreachš”coproduces”Twitter” lives”in”Mexico”most”of”the”year” graphic”artist”for”publisher” touch”made”it”fit”for”the”dance”floorš”too–”“The”seams”had”string”inside´”after”the” feedsš”and”is”developing”enhancements”such”as”user-generated”video”blogsš”an”online” but”maintains”a”studio”in”western” McGraw-Hillœ”” ceremonyš”I”pulled”the”string”until”the”back”was”the”same”length”as”the”frontœ”It” TV”showš”and”plant-of-the-day”newslettersœ”“We”also”hope”to”add”a”feature”that”can” Massachusettsš”works”primarily”with” was”coolœ””Maxman”later”designed”maternity”wear”for”Ed”Volin´”her”dresses”sold”in” map”weather”patterns”so”members”can”track”the”eµects”of”climate”change—a”major” fiberš”oil”stickš”and”wax-based”paintœ” Walsh’s New York Associated Bœ”Altman”and”Lord”&”Taylorœ”She”went”on”for”a”degree”in”modern”languages”(she” Press Award-winning Lost layout challenge”for”gardenersœ” She”has”shown”her”pieces”across” speaks”seven)”and”a”PhD”in”education”from”Columbia”University’s”Teachers”Collegeš” for the Advance. Latelyš”Shepp”has”been”scrutinizing”the”impact”of”social”media”on”the”fashion” the”UœSœ”and”has”a”solo”exhibition”in” and”she”worked”as”a”staµ”developer”for”teachersœ”Her”granddaughter”recently”took” worldš”which”she”discussed”at”FIT’s”¬¢§¢”Sustainable”Business”and”Design”Confer- Mexico”this”fallœ FIT’s”Saturday”Live”classes”for”high”school”studentsœ”Perhaps”Maxman”will”give”her” 1993 enceœ”One”trend”she’s”watching”eagerly”is”the”industry’s”embrace”of”environmentalismš” Halycon 2, 2010, the”same”advice”she”received”at”FITœ”Maxman”says”after”the”weddingš”she”asked”a” VANESSA RICHARDSON, ADVERTISING AND COMMUNICATIONS,” the”topic”of”a”forthcoming”workshop”series”and”runway”show”she’s”mounting”in”San” fiber, oil stick, and paint. dean”to”change”her”records”to”her”married”nameœ”The”dean”repliedš”“Why”do”that?” completed”five”magazine”internships”at”FIT”before”landing” Francisco”with”FIT”faculty”member”Shireen”Musaœ”“Some”great”design”resources”are” Marriage”is”not”necessarily”foreverš”but”an”education”isœ””Indeedœ” ””””””””””” positions”at”Self”and”Moneyœ”She”is”now”a”freelance” popping”upš”like”Source©Styleš”dedicated”to”sourcing”sustainable”textilesš””Shepp”saysœ” 1978 ””””””””””””””””—AlexJoseph writer”commuting”between”San”Francisco”and”Texas’s” And”take”noteš”budding”eco-preneurs–”“There’s”so”much”potential—and”opportunity— SID HOELTZELL, PHOTOGRAPHY,”has”been”a”commercial”and” Big”Bend”regionš”covering”topics”such”as”personal”financeš” for”others”to”kick-start”new”green”fashion”initiativesœ”” fine-art”photographer”in”Miami”for”¬¢”yearsœ”A”former”FIT” small-business”managementš”urban”planningš”and”travelœ ”””””””””””””—JenniferLynRenzi instructorš”he”has”traveled”on”assignment”to”Europeš”South” 1982 1989 1990 Americaš”and”the”Caribbeanœ”He”is”an”artist-in-residence” NANCY MALAFATOPOULOS, NEENA REDDY, MARKETING: HELENA McHUGH, PRODUCTION 1994 for”Royal”Caribbean”Cruisesš”and”plans”to”publish”a”book” FASHION BUYING AND FASHION AND RELATED MANAGEMENT: TEXTILES, LYNDA NAIPAWER PORTELLI, MARKETING: FASHION AND RELATED 2000 about”Florida”Everglades”residents”next”yearœ MERCHANDISING,”teaches” INDUSTRIES,”earned”her” PATTERNMAKING TECHNOLOGY INDUSTRIES, FASHION BUYING AND MERCHANDISING ’92,”is”the” HEIDI BACHOR, FASHION SHAUNYA HARTLEY, PHOTOGRAPHY,” ALANA FERJENTSIK KELEN, fashion”and”interior”design” medical”degree”after” ’88,”founded”the”online” marketing”and”public”relations”manager”at”Dauphinš” MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT, is”a”stylist”and”writer” FASHION MERCHANDISING at”Fairfield”Warde”High” spending”four”years” laptop”and”travel”accessory” a”commercial”furniture”manufacturerœ”Portelli”has”held” FASHION BUYING AND currently”working”on” MANAGEMENT,”is”the”senior” School”in”Connecticutœ” marketing”bands”like”Pearl” company”Casauri”with” similar”positions”with”tile”and”glass”manufacturersœ”In” MERCHANDISING ’98,”is”the” her”memoirš”Diaryofan stylist”at”VH§š”dressing” Malafatopoulos”was”named” Jam”and”Nirvanaœ”She”is” her”sister”Emily”in”§¦¦¦š” ¬¢¢ªš”she”was”the”keynote”speaker”at”the”Society”of” marketing”analyst”for”the” OverdressedBlackWomanœ” the”cable”channel’s”regular” ¬¢§¢”Teacher”of”the”Year”by” now”a”physician”advisor”at” after”nine”years”with”the” Glass”and”Ceramic”Decorators’”annual”conference” skin”care”group”at”Chattemš” Hartley”writes”her”own” talent”and”shopping”for” the”American”Association” the”University”of”Pittsburgh” Butterick”sewing-pattern” and”expositionœ manufacturer”of”products” lifestyle”blog—Shopš”Eat” shoots”around”New”York” of”Family”and”Consumer” Medical”Center”Presbyte- companyœ”McHugh” like”Gold”Bond”and”Selsun” &”Sleep—and”contributes” Cityœ”She”also”freelances” Sciences”for”establishing” rian”Hospitalš”where”she” designed”the”first”laptop” Blueœ”Bachorš”who”earned” to”online”magazines”Honey” for”e-commerce”websitesš” the”Trashy”Fashion”Showš” reviews”patient”cases”and” bag”sold”at”MoMAš”and” her”MBA”in”¬¢¢ªš”forecasts” and”Creamœ”She”launched” magazinesš”network”news” an”annual”Earth”Day”event” works”with”fellow”doctors” introduced”an”iPad”case” operationsš”analyzes”salesš” Vintage”Shaunš”an”online” showsš”and”celebrity”clientsœ for”which”students”design” to”deliver”clinical”care”in” in”Novemberœ and”manages”promotional” vintage”store”on”Etsyš”in” This martini photograph for Royal Caribbean won Hoeltzell an ADDY Award clothing”made”from”refuseœ and”out”of”the”hospitalœ activitiesœ Octoberœ from the American Advertising Federation.

28 hue | fall 2010 www.fitnyc.edu/hue 29 2001 PROPER TOPPERS BEYOND DELIA MANNEN, FASHION DESIGN,”works”at”Case”Western” CASSANDRA MACGREGOR, MILLINERY CERTIFICATE Reserve”University’s”School”of”Engineering”in”Cleveland” THE sources of inspiration as”the”director”of”student-alumni”relationsš”a”job”that” involves”cultivating”relationships”through”event”planning” REFLECTION and”marketingœ”Mannen”is”also”pursuing”a”graduate”degree” JAMES M. DAMIAN in”positive”organizational”behaviorœ Display”and”Exhibit”Design”’³®”

MICHAEL PONCÉ, ILLUSTRATION,” Everyone needs a source of inspiration, and mine was has”earned”an”MFA”from” the display artist Gene Moore. Gene changed the game the”New”York”Academy” of”Art”and”conducted” in window design. He started the art of storytelling in graduate”research”in” windows. It happened when he did his first window— anatomy”at”Oxford”Uni- using furs—for Bergdorf Goodman. Usually, displays were versityœ”He”now”teaches” created during the day, but he decided to work at night, anatomy”and”physiology” with curtains drawn, because, he said, “It’s not polite to at”Vista”College”in”New” change in public.” In those days, a good display man Mexicoš”where”he”paints” still-lifes”and”portraitsœ” got as much product in the window as possible, with news from your classmates your news from Poncé”plans”to”open”a” the price tags showing. Instead, Gene picked the best Elliott Muñoz gallery”in”Las”Cruces”this” representative from each category of fur and threw them Dutch Girl, 2010, oil on panel. After studying at FIT in the early ’00s, Cassandra MacGregor quit her auction-house day job, interned with three fallš”with”space”for”visiting” different hat-makers, and landed a full-time millinery gig on the Upper East Side. She moved to Dallas three years down on the floor. He placed beside them a pair of artists”on”sabbaticalœ ago and opened her own studio. Above: Her Ron Zacapa fedora, a limited edition of her Panama Rex fedora commissioned by the liquor brand. women’s pumps, a string of pearls, a champagne bottle, 2002 and two empty glasses lit with pin spots. So what was HEATHER KOSCH, FASHION DESIGN,”makes”wood-based”jewelry” 2005 2006 Gene selling? Romance! He was inviting the customer into for”collaborations”with”designers”such”as”Mary”Ping”and” BEKA NAVE RENDELL, ADVERTISING AND MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS,” CHRISTINE CALHOUN, FASHION the story. Those furs sold out. And this was 1935—the Julian”Louie”and”for”her”own”eponymous”labelœ”Her”work” is”founder”and”owner”of”Innoveš”a”Philadelphia-based” MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT, height of the Great Depression. I can trace everything has”been”featured”in”ElleWomen’sWearDailyš”and”Paperš” event”planning”company”handling”everything”from” runs”CCNails”and”Cosmet- in the art of presentation, display, and retail that’s going and”is”sold”in”New”York”and”Miami”storesš”on”Kosch’s”own” locations”and”menus”to”attire”and”floral”arrangementsœ” icsš”a”company”marketing” on now back to Gene. Whether it’s a window or an in-store websiteš”and”through”online”retailer”Gaudion”Bowerbankœ Innove”deals”primarily”in”weddings”but”also”organizes” her”own”lacquers”and” dinner”parties”and”nonprofit”eventsœ nail-care”productsœ” experience, there has to be a “Hello!”—a way to engage Calhoun”recently”added” the imagination. At Best Buy, I want the customer to LAUREN SAMPSON, RESTORATION, FINE ARTS ’03,”is”the”fund” natural”stone”jewelry”to” feel they can stay and play and touch and try. Well manager”at”The”Cooper”Unionš”where”she”leads”a”È®” her”oµeringsš”and”was”a” before “brand” was a buzzword, Gene understood the million”annual”campaign”and”runs”events”like”the”Phone- featured”“Green”Entrepre- importance of establishing a store’s image, and he did a-thonš”which”raised”over”È°¢¢š¢¢¢”this”yearœ”She”and” neur””in”the”summer” it with whimsy and taste. fiancé”Richard”Lombardiš”Restoration”’¢°š”Fine”Arts”’¢®š” ¬¢§¢”issue”of”Echoesof are”restoring”an”§ª¦©”Folk”Victorian”home”in”New”Jerseyœ Empowermentœ As Best Buy’s senior vice president of the Enterprise Design Group, Damian engineered the look and feel of the national chain’s stores. He frequently collaborated with Moore (1910-98), who worked Vector bracelet, made of ebony, yellow heart, and 2008 at Bonwit Teller and, for 39 years, Tiffany & Co., where he became zebra wood, from Kosch’s STACY HERZOG, FASHION DESIGN,”met”best”friend” vice president for window display. In 1996, Damian helped The Geometric collection. Sarah”Reid”during”an”internship”at”Natoriœ” Museum at FIT mount a retrospective of Moore’s work, Moon Over Michelle Talan In”¬¢¢¦š”the”pair”launched”Frieda”&”Nellieš” Pearls, for which he also designed the invitation (pictured). 2003 2004 which”oµers”handmade”necklaces”and” ELICIA ABERCROMBIE CORBETT, LIZANNE ROMERO, FASHION bracelets”that”mix”embroidery”with”vintage” FASHION MERCHANDISING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT,” jewelryœ”The”pieces”sell”on”the”Frieda”&” MANAGEMENT,”has”worked”in” is”the”West”Coast”sales” Nellie”website”and”at”stores”in”New”Yorkš” Gene Moore and some of his windows for Tiffany’s. men’s”buying”for”Polo”Ralph” representative”for”Dirty” Los”Angelesš”and”Paris´”an”exclusive”line”for” Lauren’s”factory-outlet” Laundry”and”CL”by” Jœ”Crew”can”be”found”at”the”retailer’s”SoHo” division”for”seven”yearsœ” Laundryš”two”shoe”lines” and”East”Hampton”storesœ In”addition”to”working”with” of”the”Chinese”Laundry” colleagues”in”production” labelœ”She”plans”to”launch” and”brand”presentationš” her”own”T-shirt”lineš” Corbett”shops”the”competi- Tender”Teesš”by”fall”¬¢§§œ”

tion”to”stay”abreast”of” Frieda & Nellie’s Medusa bracelet; Herzog (right)

current”trends”and”pricingœ with partner Sarah Reid. frieda&nellie

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