Remembering Colonial Bengal
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WANDERLUST / West Bengal Remembering Colonial Bengal 06 19 From a flourishing Dutch trading port to a vibrant outpost of the French, explore the towns on the outskirts of Kolkata that bear testimony to colonial influence in the state. WORDS Sudipto De he grand Victoria Memorial, the scenic Princep Ghat, the imposing St Paul's Cathedral, Tthe majestic white-domed Grand Post Office and the sprawling Metcalfe Hall that earlier housed the Calcutta Public Library (the National Library of India) – these are just some of the buildings that serve as reminders of Kolkata's British colonial history. Imperial influences can be seen in several cities across the country but what sets West Bengal apart is the fact that it bears imprints of other colonial powers too, namely the French, Dutch, Danish and Portuguese. Travel to the outskirts of the metropolis to smaller towns like Serampore, Chandernagor, Chinsurah and Bandel, Located along the Hooghly and explore architectural marvels that river in Chandernagor, Durgacharan Ghat is quite hark back to the time when the region popular among locals, who was under these European Powers.. flock to it in the evenings. 44 FOLLOW US ON 45 1 25 STORES Rare Rabbit & Rareism Name/Logo are Registered Assets 06 19 Serampore 2 One of the best ways to access the hinterlands of West Bengal is through the yellow-green local train. To see lush paddy fields and cultivated farms with tiny embankments swoop past in the bat of an eye is a unique experience. Closest to Kolkata and first on the heritage trail is Serampore, which remained under Danish rule for nearly 90 years, till 1845. Sitting on the banks of the Hooghly river, this quaint town boasts several mansions that date back to the days of the Danes. The most popular here is the Denmark Tavern. Overlooking the river, this 232-year-old building is the pride and glory of the town, and rightfully so. Locals claim that in its heyday, the Danish flagstaff was situated in front of it. Although it was an important outpost of the Danish East India Company, it fell into 1. Founded in 1818, Serampore College is a stately building with Corinthian columns. Earlier, it used to offer degrees in all subjects pursued in universities in Copenhagen. Today, it is affiliated to the disrepair only to be restored in 2018. University of Calcutta. 2. An archival picture of the gateway that led to the former Danish settlement of Today, the tavern is a stunning yellow Serampore (also called Frederiksnagore by the Danes) carrying the monogram of King Frederick VI. and white double-storeyed building GET 10% ON YOUR FIRST PURCHASE with green doors, white colonnaded CODE:10AA *T&C: FOR ONLINE ONLY 46 FOLLOW US ON "Such was France's influence on Chandernagor that French is still taught as a third language in many of its schools!" 1 verandahs and jalousied (a blind the Archaeological Survey of India or shutter made of a row of (ASI). Another stunning reminder angled slats) windows facing the of Danish rule in Serampore is waterbody. Not just the tavern, the St Olav's Church. Commissioned in 12,000-sq-ft Danish Government 1800 by the then Danish governor House (DGH) and its two gates are Ole Bie, its pediment displays the also being renovated and restored monogram of King Frederick VI. A to their former glory. park in front of the church houses One of the best things about 15 Danish canons, which were many of Serampore's colonial once stationed across town and edifices is that most of these sites were brought together in 1940 by are within walking distance of each the Serampore Municipality for other. Serampore College, believed public display. to be India’s second-oldest college, created under a Royal Danish Chandernagor Charter granted by King Frederick VI, is a stone's throw away from the When you think of a French Danish cemetery. The cemetery colony in India, the quaint lanes is listed as a protected monument of Puducherry with its yellow under the Ancient Monuments and walls and dainty cafés come to Archaeological Sites and Remains mind. But an equally important Act of 1958, and is maintained by French colony is Chandernagor (or 06 19 1. The Sacred Heart 2 Church is one of Chandernagor's prime attractions. This two-storeyed church boasting twin towers was inaugurated in 1884. 2. Institut de Chandernagor, a cultural centre-cum-museum, was once the residence of the former governor general of French India, Francois Dupleix. 48 FOLLOW US ON Bandel's Portugal Connect Barely half an hour away from Chinsurah lies Bandel, which was under Portuguese influence. In fact, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to settle in West Bengal and also hold the distinction of building the first Christian church in the state. The Church of Our Lady of the Happy Voyage was initially constructed in 1599, demolished by the Mughals in 1632 and then rebuilt in the same year. Over the years, the church has been 1 Mukherjee Image: Sugato reconstructed several times and today represents a modern structure. It is popularly known as Bandel Church. The word bandel means 'mast' in Portuguese. Bandel slender columns with exquisite Church, which is designated stucco works and floral engravings, as the Basilica of the Holy Rosary houses a mast, which was built in honour of Durgacharan was gifted by a Portuguese Rakshit, the 1841 recipient of ship captain after his ship 06 was damaged in a storm on Légion d’honneur, the highest 19 the Hooghly river. Steeped honour bestowed by the French in rich cultural heritage, the Government. This is a favourite church is a testament to the architectural prowess and haunt of locals, who come here in sanctity of the Portuguese. the evening for some cool breeze Do not miss the breathtaking Doric architecture, chandeliers and friendly chats. and umpteen paintings on A little further from here is the walls depicting the life another landmark – the Dupleix of Jesus Christ. The recessed pulpit of the chapel holds Palace, the former residence of the the statue of Our Lady of then governor general of French Holy Rosary, bathed in light streaming in from the stained India, Francois Dupleix. It was glass windows. Take the stairs converted into the Institut de to the topmost balcony, where Chandernagor, an Indo-French devotees light candles and whisper silent prayers. 2 Cultural Centre housing one of the oldest museums in West Bengal. The exhibits here boast a rare 1. The imposing colonnaded facade of Chandannagar/ Chondonnogor, collection of French antiques such the old library of Chandernagor from the as it is colloquially called), as cannons used in the Anglo- days of the French. 2. Established in 1861, the St Joseph's Convent was one of the located barely an hour away from French wars (popularly known first church-run schools to be built in the Serampore. The French arrived here as the Carnatic wars), personal French quarter of Chandernagor. Located on the strand, this is an all-girls' school. in 1637 and such was the country's belongings of French officials and influence that French is still taught wooden furniture dating back as a third language in many of to the 18th century along with Chandernagor's schools! heritage four-poster beds and A walk along the kilometre-long sofas, pretty crockery, and other grand promenade, named the remnants of the French colonial era Strand, along the gurgling Hooghly of Chandernagor. river allows visitors to experience Along the strand are two more some of the most elegant examples heritage structures – the French of French architecture. The Fort, a multi-columned red-stone highlight of this stretch is the building, which now serves as Durgacharan Rakshit Ghat. This the courthouse, and the beautiful elegant pavilion, consisting of twin-towered Sacred Heart Church, 50 FOLLOW US ON 1 3 Images: Sugato Mukherjee Images: Sugato 1. The ASI-maintained Dutch cemetery is one of the best places to trace the Dutch colonial influence in Chinsurah. The oldest tomb here is that of one Sir Cornelius Jonge, who passed away in 1743. 2. Boro Seal Bari, a mansion in Chinsurah built in 1763, originally belonged to a wealthy merchant during the Dutch period. 3. The tomb of Susanna Anna Maria, stands atop a six- step platform. It is locally called the saat 06 saheber bibir kobor (tomb of the wife of 19 seven royals). Maria, a Dutch lady who, according to records, married twice but according to local belief, had seven husbands. This pristine white neo- classical two-storeyed memorial 2 with arched gateways and slender columns is surmounted by a dome and topped with a steeple. It is believed that the story of the lady whose interiors are adorned with as 1743. The area is now a heritage was the inspiration behind author impressive stained glass. site and is maintained by the ASI. Ruskin Bond's famous novella, Two of the most notable Dutchmen Susanna's Seven Husbands. buried here include Robert May, These three neighbouring towns Chinsurah a pioneer of women education in and their colonial attractions can One railway station away from India, and Pieter Sterthemius, the be covered in a day. But for history Chandernagor is Chinsurah (locally first director of the Bengal factories buffs and travellers who like to take called Chuchura), a Dutch trading of VOC. in the visual and sensory aspects post for nearly 200 years, dealing As per historical records, the Fort of a destination, the exploration in saltpetre, spices, cotton and of Gustava, built sometime in the can easily be extended to two-three indigo.