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Classification Et Influences Des Polyphénols Du Boisde Chêne Sur La Qualité Sensorielle Des Vins (Application Du Procédé Oakscan®) Julien Michel

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Classification Et Influences Des Polyphénols Du Boisde Chêne Sur La Qualité Sensorielle Des Vins (Application Du Procédé Oakscan®) Julien Michel Classification et influences des polyphénols du boisde chêne sur la qualité sensorielle des vins (Application du procédé OakScan®) Julien Michel To cite this version: Julien Michel. Classification et influences des polyphénols du bois de chêne sur la qualité sensorielle des vins (Application du procédé OakScan®). Ingénierie des aliments. Université de Bordeaux Ségalen (Bordeaux 2), 2012. Français. tel-02811201 HAL Id: tel-02811201 https://hal.inrae.fr/tel-02811201 Submitted on 6 Jun 2020 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Université Bordeaux Segalen Année 2012 Thèse n° 1989 THESE pour le DOCTORAT DE L’UNIVERSITE BORDEAUX 2 Mention : Sciences, Technologie, Santé Option : Œnologie Présentée et soutenue publiquement le 14 décembre 2012 par MICHEL Julien Né le 8 mars 1984 à Bordeaux, France ****************************** Classification et influences des polyphénols du bois de chêne sur la qualité sensorielle des vins (Application du procédé Oakscan®) ****************************** Membres du Jury M. F. ZAMORA, Professeur, Universitat Rovira i Virgili ......................................... Rapporteur M.J. RICARDO DA SILVA, Professeur, Universidade de Lisbonne ........................ Rapporteur M. B. CHARRIER, Professeur, Université de Pau ..................................................... Examinateur M. M. JOURDES, Maître de Conférences, Université Bordeaux Segalen ................. Examinateur M. P.L. TEISSEDRE, Professeur, Université Bordeaux Segalen ............................... Directeur de thèse Résumé Lors de l’élevage des vins avec le bois de chêne, plusieurs molécules d’intérêts organoleptiques comme les ellagitannins (vescalagine, castalagine, roburines A, B, C, D, E et grandinine), sont extraites. Leurs concentrations dans le bois et le vin sont très variables et leurs cinétiques d’extraction au cours de l’élevage ainsi que leurs propriétés organoleptiques dans les vins sont mal connues. Dans le but de classifier chaque douelle pour fabriquer des barriques avec des indices en polyphénols totaux significativement différents, un système proche infrarouge (NIRS), Oakscan®, a été mis en place par la tonnellerie Radoux. Notre objectif était d’étudier l’influence de ce mode de classifications des bois au niveau de la composition moléculaire et organoleptique des vins. Dans un premier temps, la classification NIRS des bois de chêne a été confirmée par quantification des concentrations en ellagitannins totaux et moléculaire par HPLC-UV-MS. Une forte variabilité des concentrations en ellagitannins des bois est observée entre 5,95 ± 0,30 et 32,91 ± 0,98 mg d’équivalent acide ellagique/g de bois sec. De plus, la classification NIRS des bois se corrèle avec les analyses chimiques (p < 0,02%). Cette nouvelle méthode permet donc de fabriquer des barriques avec un IP moyen différent (IP : 11, 12, 16, 21, 26, 30, 35, 36, 39, 40, 41, 50, 51, 53, 62, 67 et 70). Dans un second temps, des vins de différentes origines et cépages sont élevés dans les barriques classifiées. La cinétique des teneurs en ellagitanins montre l’influence de la classification des bois de chêne (p < 5%). En effet, dès les premiers mois d’élevage, une augmentation en ellagitanins jusqu’à un maximum est obtenue. Plus les bois sont riches, plus le maximum de concentration en ellagitannins des vins est élevé et décalé dans le temps (2,30 ± 0,05 après 4 mois et 11,56 ± 0,31 mg d’équivalent acide ellagique / L de vin rouge après 12 mois respectivement pour des barriques d’IP 21 et d’IP 70). Puis, une lente diminution des concentrations en ellagitannins est observée. Les influences du grain et de la chauffe des bois ont également été analysées. La solubilisation dans les vins des composés aromatiques des bois de chêne classifiés par Oakscan® montre dans plusieurs cas que les teneurs en aldéhydes furaniques (furfural, alcool furfurylique et 5-méthylfurfural) et en syringol impliqués dans les perceptions du fumé/grillé sont corrélées avec la classification NIRS et également avec l’IP des bois. Ainsi, un vin élevé au contact de bois riches en polyphénols possède des concentrations en arômes fumé/grillé plus importantes. Néanmoins, l’intensité de la chauffe (qui permet leur synthèse par thermo dégradation des hémicelluloses et des lignines) a un rôle prépondérant sur les concentrations de ces arômes boisés. Parallèlement, les propriétés organoleptiques des vins élevés avec du bois de chêne (barriques, staves) à 6, 12, 18 ou 24 mois et testées par un jury entrainé, montrent des différences significatives corrélées à l’IP des barriques. Les vins élevés pour les IP les plus importants sont significativement décrits comme plus boisés, fumés/grillés et épicé au nez. En bouche, l’amertume et l’astringence sont significativement plus importantes pour les vins élevés dans les barriques possédant les plus fortes concentrations en ellagitanins. A contrario, le fruité des vins, au nez et en bouche, est généralement noté comme moins important pour les vins élevés avec des barriques à IP le plus hauts. L’influence de la classification des bois, en fonction de leurs grains et de leurs IP, sur la consommation en oxygène des vins rouges après entonnage a été suivie grâce à une méthode innovante et non invasive. Les résultats montrent que 96% de l’oxygène dans le vin à T0 est consommé huit jours après entonnage. Des différences significatives (p < 0,01%), entre les vitesses de consommation de l’oxygène et l’IP ou le grain des barriques, sont observées. La vitesse de consommation d’oxygène augmente avec corrélation de l’IP des barriques ou de la taille du grain. Ces résultats permettent d’envisager l’utilisation de méthodes de sélection non empiriques et fiables des bois de chêne en fonction de leurs grains ou de leurs concentrations en ellagitanins ce qui permet de fabriquer des barriques classifiées à l’aide de nos résultats conférant, au vin, des propriétés organoleptiques maîtrisées. Mots clefs: Ellagitanins, NIRS, vin, bois de chêne, astringence, amertume, composés aromatiques, oxygène Abstract During the wine aging with oak wood, some compounds with interesting organoleptic properties such as ellagitannins (i.e., vescalagin, castalagin, roburins A, B, C, D, E and grandinin) are extracted. The ellagitannins concentrations in oak wood and wine are highly variable and their extractions kinetic during the aging as well as their organoleptic impacts on wines are poorly known and still unclear. In order to classify each stave according to their polyphenolics index (IP) before making the barrels, an infrared system (NIRS), Oakscan®, was develop by the tonnellerie Radoux. Our aim was to study the influence of this wood classification on the wines molecular composition and organoleptic properties. In the first place, the NIRS oak staves classification has been confirmed by the determination of the total ellagitannins concentration as well as the specific levels of each ellagitannins molecule by HPLC-UV-MS. A high variability of the ellagitannins level in wood between 5.95 ± 0.30 and 32.91 ± 0.98 mg ellagic acid equivalent/g of dry wood was observed. Furthermore, the wood infrared classification is correlated with chemical analyzes (p < 0.02%) and allow the production of barrels with different IP (IP: 11, 12, 16, 21, 26, 30, 35, 36, 39, 40, 41, 50, 51, 53, 62, 67 et 70). In a second place, some wines were aged in the classified barrels. The ellagitannins levels show the oak wood classification influences (p < 5%). Indeed, the first months of aging, the ellagitannins concentration increased until a maximum was obtain. Indeed, this maximum concentration in wine aged in barrel manufactured with the wood richer in ellagitannins was higher and latter (2.30 ± 0.05 after 4 months and 11.56 ± 0.31 mg ellagic acid equivalent/L of wine after 12 months respectively for the IP 21 and IP 70 barrels). After this maximum, a slow decrease of the ellagitannins level was observed. The influences of grain and toasting were also analyzed. The aromatics compounds solubilization of classified oak wood by Oakscan® show that the furanic aldehydes levels (furfural, alcohol furfurylique et 5-méthylfurfural) and the syringol involved in the smocked/toasted aromas were correlated with the NIRS classification and the wood IP. So, a wine aged in contact with wood richer in polyphenols compounds was describe as more smocked/toasted. Nevertheless, the toasting intensity (which formed these compounds by thermo- degradation of hemicelluloses and lignins) plays a major role on their concentrations. Moreover, organoleptic properties of the wines aged with oak wood (barrels, staves) at 6, 12, 18 or 24 month and tested by trained judges were significantly impacted by the IP barrels. In fact, wine with the highest ellagitannins level was significantly described with a higher woody, smoked/burned and spicy in nose. In mouth, the bitterness and the astringency were significantly higher in wine containing the highest ellagitannins level. Whereas, the wine fruity aroma, in nose and mouth, was generally descript as lower in
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