ISSUE SIX

PLAN Heritage hotel review, Sydney; drive to view silo art. DESTINATIONS Exploring Launceston; going solo on the Ghan; 5 highlights of the Maldives; finding mystery in Tangiers. INSPIRATION Markets Tasting the best of Indian Anyone for Gluhwein? food; China’s warriors, tame and terracotta. CRUISING The traditional history of Japan; intergenerational cruising; luxury cruising through Indonesia.

EUROPE – TASMANIA – MOROCCO – INDIA – CHINA FUN FACT: GOATS IN TREES This is not a fake photo. On top of a tree, in The argan nuts pass through the digestive the south west of Morocco, in North Africa system of the goats and once they are where the plants and trees are far apart and excreted, people gather them from the fewer, goats use their climbing skills to find droppings and crack them open to expose food. Here the animals have climbed up an the seeds. The Argan Oil from the nuts is a argan tree (8-10metres) to get to the fresh fruit nutritious resource for Morocco. at the top. And even after feeding their faces, the goats Goats eat the whole fruit even though their just hang around on the branches of the trees bodies can’t digest the nut. just looking out at the horizon . . . IMAGE: BEV MALZARD BEV IMAGE:

Make one day today

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2 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 20

47 24 08 Contents PLAN 28 Morocco’s mystery city – Tangiers. 04 Book early for a MY DISCOVERIES TEAM marvellous European General Manager Christmas and its INSPIRATION Janeece Keller

sparkling markets. 32 Tasting the best of Indian Features Editor 08 Suss out a Sydney traditional food. Bev Malzard heritage hotel. 35 Meet the greatest army of Digital Editor 12 Ride on down the road warriors – the Terracotta Alison Godfrey on a driving holiday to Warriors of China. Staff Writer find wall art in Australian Sophie Cullen country towns. Designer CRUISING Jon Wolfgang Miller 42 Cruise to find the ancient Contributors DESTINATIONS tales of the Last Samuri of Alison Godfrey; Sue Wallace; Japan. Bev Malzard; Rob McFarland; 16 Launceston – Tassie’s Bethany Plinth; Roderick Eime; top town. 47 Mixing it up onboard Tiana Templeman; Julie Jones; Wendy Fernandes. 20 Solo train travel is the with an intergenerational family. Contact new singles favourite @mydiscoveries holiday – go for the Ghan! 52 Accessible cruising. @mydiscoveries [email protected] 24 Five highlights of the 54 Luxury cruising through www.mydiscoveries.com.au Maldives. Indonesia. 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 3 PLAN

toTO MARKET,market... Traditions dating back hundreds of years come into play at the charming and twinkling Christmas markets throughout Europe. Anyone for gluhwein? SUE WALLACE

4 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au There’s no better way to discover the charm of Europe’s many wonderful Christmas markets than with a mug of steaming gluhwein laced with cinnamon and cloves, in hand. The delicious aroma of roasting chestnuts is often in the air as you wander by wooden chalets decked with twinkling fairy lights, bright baubles and fresh holly and pine tree branches. Intricate beaded Christmas decorations, timber toys, handmade soap, felt slippers and treats that are almost too pretty to eat top the list of must-haves as Yuletide fever sets in. Christmas markets start from mid-November and by early December are in full swing across Europe as crowds flock to buy gifts for family and friends and stock up on goodies for Christmas stockings. There’s keen competition among European cities when it comes to the best accolade but each one has something special to offer. The market circuit has become a huge tourist attraction for Christmas revellers who wander along cobbled stone streets to pretty squares where markets have been held for centuries. Here are some of the best:

AUSTRIA Austria stages some of the oldest and prettiest Christmas markets with many dating back to the Middle Ages. Vienna has 20 markets in the city with stunning historical buildings as dramatic backdrops. Rathausplatz in front of the neo-Gothic City Hall is a sight to behold with more than 150 chalets stocked with wooden houses, puppets, hearts,

RATHAUSPLATZ IN FRONT OF THE leather clothing and woollen NEO-GOTHIC CITY HALL hats. There’s a big skating rink

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 5 BATH, UNITED KINGDOM

and children can learn to make traditional carols. located between Strasbourg Christmas cookies. Dresden’s ancient Christmas and Mulhouse. The glorious Belvedere and market, started Schonbrunn palaces, Altes AKH 583 years ago and is known for ITALY - a former hospital and Maria- its traditional crafts. There are stocking fillers galore Theresien Platz look amazing in cups are designed and produced at the Florence market where their Christmas garb. Gingerbread, locally, in Neukirch in East Saxony the beautiful Franciscan Basilica cheese, meats, punch and wine by Kannegießer Keramik. Piazza Santa Croce stands. Piazza from regional producers feature at del Duomo has a the pleasure market at the FRANCE and an impressive , Opera House. Strasbourg in eastern France is which is lit up on 8 December as Salzburg and Innsbruck markets known for its pretty markets that part of the Feast of the Immaculate are just as magical. started in 1570. The lofty Great Conception. In Trento, the gateway Christmas Tree, a towering spruce to the Dolomites, there are 90 GERMANY that looms over Place Kleber wooden stalls showcasing local Cologne, Hamburg, Worms, Leipzig, attracts big crowds. Taste French food including sheep’s cheese and Nuremberg and Stuttgart stage Yuletide treats including pain dried orange slices in the Piazza great markets while Berlin goes d’épices with ginger, clove, Fiera and Piazza Cesare Battisti. all out boasting more than 60. cardamom, anise, and other spices Gendarmenmarkt is one of the and menele cookies in the shape of SWEDEN most popular and there’s nothing St Nicolas along with local Alsatian Glogg is the popular Christmas like enjoying a traditional bratwurst wine. drink spiced with cinnamon, apple, and German ale while listening to Another star market is at Colmar, and brandy at Sweden’s Christmas

6 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au TIVOLI GARDENS, COPENHAGEN

INNSBRUCK, AUSTRIA TIVOLI GARDENS, COPENHAGEN

markets including Gothenburg and barbecued pork or trdelník, UNITED KINGDOM where there’s a three kilometre a hot, rolled pastry rolled in Bath stages a spectacular twinkling Lane of Lights. cinnamon and sugar and cooked Christmas market with more than The city’s Liseberg Amusement over a grill. 180 light-strewn stalls around the Park is home to Sweden’s largest iconic Roman Baths and Abbey. Christmas market with more than ESTONIA In Manchester you can visit a 80 stalls, an ice-skating rink and real The Tallinn Christmas Market is European market in Albert Square, reindeer. where the first Christmas tree was a German-style market at St Ann’s displayed in Europe in front of Square and French-themed stalls at NORWAY the town hall back in 1441. Black King Street. Dried reindeer meat, moose pudding and sour cabbage are burgers and beautiful Christmas the local treat and can be tried in No matter which Christmas market trees from Trondelag Woods the Town Hall Square where Santa you visit – it’s easy to fall under feature at Trondheim’s market and his sleigh pulled by a team of the spell of fairy tale festivities, square. Visit during the beautiful reindeers often drops by. twinkling lights, local treats and blue hour which gives everything spicy gluhwein. outdoors a magical blue glow. DENMARK Copenhagen’s historic Tivoli CZECH REPUBLIC Gardens puts on a spectacular PLANNING FOR A EUROPEAN WINTER? Prague’s Old Town Square and show with 1000 Christmas trees @mydiscoveries Wenceslas Square are the homes and 70,000 Christmas baubles plus @mydiscoveries [email protected] of stunning Christmas markets 27 fun rides and a cosy Christmas www.mydiscoveries.com.au where you will find mulled wine market full of goodies. 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 7 PLAN

Primus Hotel Sydney Want a classy staycation in Sydney or heading to the big smoke for a holiday? Enjoy comfort with history and heritage. BEV MALZARD

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

8 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au When is a hotel not a hotel? Well, In 2008, 339 Pitt Street was listed copper and aluminium. it’s always a hotel if it’s a hotel! But as a heritage item of the Sydney Above the entrance are low relief if it’s not a tall, shiny new property, Local Environment Plan and listed bronze panels depicting the water a sprawling resort, a boutique, on the State Heritage Register of industry and its technological bespoke building – it just might be New South Wales. progression. (Originally designed a hotel created within an historic The building was deserted by by Stanley James Hammond, the building that still has the bones of the M.W.S & D. Board around 2009 panels have been restored to their the past, the ambience of a bygone when the staff were relocated to original mellow beauty.) era and the gravitas of heritage. Sydney’s western suburbs. Entering the lobby is a gasp- One such property is Sydney’s And the rest is new history! Down worthy moment. There’s not a lovely Primus Hotel. This mighty the quiet end of town where the space in Sydney that compares. building was built in 1939 as home building in all its anonymous glory The amazing scagliola columns to the Metropolitan Water Sewage had been languishing, there was stand as proud as when they were and Drainage Board (M.W.S & D. much work afoot. imagined in 1939. Eight metres Board), not the most charming of In 2015 after considered high, they were entrusted to Italian names for such a splendid edifice restoration, respect for the master craftsmen, The Melocco but it worked tirelessly to perform architectural heritage and Brothers. its duties and to welcome the commercial savvy, the building Look up, look up and follow the public in to pay their water bills. opened as Sydney’s newest five- stretch of the columns and see the It was considered such an star art deco hotel, Primus Hotel Plummer Skylights – insulating the architectural superstar that Queen Sydney. lobby from noise, heat and cold. Elizabeth II paid a visit here as part The façade employs such The hotel is located in Pitt Street of the itinerary of the royal visit to materials popular in the 1930s such Sydney and handy to a glut of Australia in 1954. as natural stone, timbers, bronze, fabulous restaurants, cafes, bars

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 9 and pubs. Public transport (buses taking a dip, enjoy a snack and heritage and a buzzy part of and trains, easy to get to) and for cocktail around the pool. Level 7 Sydney while staying in a hotel in a great package book for a couple has been inspired by New York its prime. of nights and go to the Capital style rooftop bars (but with better Theatre for a show. Sydney weather). Writer Bev Malzard, visited the (The hotel runs informal heritage As well as the elegance and hotel recently and enjoyed a tasty tours through the hotel on Fridays.) welcome ambience at the hotel, lunch and is planning a sortie on There are 171 generous sized the top billing is the restaurant. the hotel to have afternoon tea rooms that are decorated in subtle The Wilmot is an open area that which the hotel boasts about. OK, shades with slashes of colours is modern and inviting. The food show me the honey! from the past that have never gone takes hotel food to another level, out of fashion. Refinement is the with scrumptious produce, brilliant buzz word for the accommodation. execution and artful presentation, WANT TO SEE MORE OF SYDNEY? There’s a pool on the roof (Level thanks to Executive Chef Daniel @mydiscoveries 7) which is unusual for a Sydney Menzies. @mydiscoveries [email protected] hotel, but most welcome on a hot For a staycation or if you’re www.mydiscoveries.com.au day. Hang out here and if you aren’t heading to Sydney, enjoy history, 1300 404 606

10 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au FIVE FACTS 1 The building was completed after Australia had entered WWII. Instead of Level 7 being fitted out as a rooftop garden as originally envisioned, the roof was converted into a small arms testing range (rifle range). 2 The building was used as a backdrop for Angelina Jolie’s film Unbroken, a WWII feature film made in 2013. 3 In 1939 this was the tallest building in Sydney. 4 Scagliola is a technique for producing stucco columns, sculptures and other architectural elements that resemble inlays of marble and semi precious stones. 5 Daniel Menzies is executive chef at The Wilmot and brings 19 years of experience in both International and Australian kitchens to the table. Daniel has a swag of prestigious culinary awards but a surprise one stands out - Doug Moran Portrait Prize – so take a good look at how your

CHEF DANIEL MENZIES food looks on the plate! MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 11 PLAN

TALKING TO A brick wall Guerilla art is now great art. Walls become artworks and silos the grand canvasses of rural towns. Once was graffiti, is now urban engagement and licence to paint the town red. BEV MALZARD

12 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au It probably began 45,000 years ago in Australia; community minded fellas worked their magic art onto the walls of caves to let passing nomadic clans see what food was available, attractions in the region and objects to be found or maybe just to show off their talent. Rock art galleries started it all. For thousands of years, human beings have made their mark upon plain surfaces, from stick men to tag-style graffiti. And when someone criticised the wall vandals of the 80s with the sentence "Punks can't spell Cappuccino", that phrase became official graffiti and the wall expression medium had arrived, Koch. elected on a clean-up-the- in the late 1990s. evolved and gained acceptance by city every which way platform, Banksy’s work sneaks up on you. the less-than-art-critical-public. scrubbed clean the city. By the Characteristic of the works are the Pre ‘acceptable’ wall art in New mid-80s NYC graffiti had faded obvious digs at hypocrisy, violence, York City, of the 70s gave birth to quietly and what was left or came greed and authoritarianism but excessive public graffiti – think later became the acceptable norm. pathos and whimsy are in the subway trains. In one of his essays Across the Atlantic, enigmatic creative makeup too. back in the day, Norman Mailer artist Banksy launched his wall art There have been plaintiff cries of said New York subway graffiti is career in his home town, Bristol. outrage that some of Banksy’s work “the great art of the 70s”. And it Stencils became his medium as his has been painted over by other burned brightly until Mayor Ed art gained notoriety on a big scale artists. No worries. His works and

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 13 the art of most wall art specialists are not forever, just a fleeting expression from the artists and the topic de jeur.

HOMEGROWN ARTISTS And at home wall art has changed the urban ‘artscape’ and rural regions. Australia is engaged with a stunning variety of wall/outdoor art that crept in stealthily during the late 90s too. Melbourne had the wall art advantage first up because of the surviving laneways in the inner city. And some of the most creative artists have emerged from the southern capital. Sydney was a slow starter but every week another piece of excellent art appears on the walls in and around the inner west and on the edge of the CBD. Without a lot of laneways remaining due to concentrated development, the older, inner suburbs snatched the prize. The big winners for wall art are the small cities and rural towns of Australia with their untouched walls. Professional wall artists including Matt Adnate, Guido van Helten, Kaff-eine, Resio, Rone, Cam Scale and Makatron are working on walls way out of the city and enriching the life of country towns. The south east Queensland ‘garden city’ of Toowoomba held First Coat festivals for four consecutive years and through the laneways and backstreets, artists from near and far and embellished blank spaces. Victoria’s Benalla (Rural Street Art Capital) has had monumental success with its Wall to Wall festival since inception in 2015.

FOR MORE TO DISCOVER IN AUSTRALIA @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

14 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au SILO, SO HIGH Outdoor art is the the art of and got the Government Drought celebrities of the shire. the 21st century. Graffiti has Communities involved in the Further into The Mallee, in graduated! decommissioned silos project that Lascelles is the two-silo artwork The Silo Art Trail that snakes has reinvigorated these towns. by Rone. Here is a man and a through the wheat belt of Victoria First stop heading north on the woman, fourth generation farmers is an inspired outdoor gallery. A 200km trail is at Rupanyup with curving around the soaring towers couple of hours outside Ballarat a double modern silo decorated and as part of the landscape as the and you are on your way. by Russian artist Julia Volchkova. mallee root tree. The concept of having the Seeing the scope of breadth of the Top of the trail is at towering (up to 27m), cylindrical art works it’s obvious that this type Patchewollock – a town to concrete towers as the canvas of work is not for sissies. Cherry dwindling prominence that is the for murals started with Guido pickers have to be ‘driven’. The most isolated on the trail. Fintan van Helten’s stupendous ‘Farmer artists work in all weather, alone, Magee chose a subject from the Quartet’ in the tiny town of Brim. and at a great height at the top of only pub in town on his first night Wheat silos define the landscape the canvas. in Patchewollock: farmer Nick here and honouring the farmers Next stop at Sheep Hills is a Hulland who is a reluctant pinup. and the history of the silos four-silo effort by Adnate of But he says if it helps the town – engaged the entire community - children of the local indigenous he’s happy. and it was lift off. clan. To be dwarfed by the four Other work is in preparation for Shaun Hossach of Juddy Roller lifelike faces is a privilege. the Silo Art Trail and silos in other Studios proclaims himself as And next at Brim is the states have put their hand up for a ‘one-man unionist’ and does extraordinary Farmers Quartet. attention and are now inviting all the leg work, negotiating and The vision is almost overwhelming to view and enjoy. planning for the casual collective with the subtle hues of the We wonder what Norman Mailer of Australian artists. He originally landscape blossoming into four would say if he had the good worked with GrainCorp (major characters of the region humbly fortune to witness this original and sponsor), Taubmans Paints (the portrayed. Real people modelled exciting art. paint supplier), Creative Victoria for this and are the modest www.siloarttrail.com

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 15 DESTINATIONS

TOP OF THE

Tasmania’sIsland second largest settlement is not quite the town that time forgot, more like the town that time has given a second chance to.

BEV MALZARD

QUADRANT MALL

16 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au JOSEF CHROMY WINERY

It’s a tiny island that sits at the bottom of Australia, sometimes forgotten and left off maps. But it’s an island that continually punches above its weight with bravado and a self-confidence that one wonders where it comes from. Tasmania. The capital city Hobart is the star attraction and with a few new hotels attracting curious clientele, boastful wine and food being produced, colourful festivals and the internationally applauded Mona on show – the city has amped up its street cred. But raise your eyes to Launceston, the gateway town to the north west of Tassie that has seen traffic for more than two centuries carry the result of a thriving logging industry and tonnes of silver from local mines shipped to the mainland and all parts of the demolition plan into action, so enclosure here. globe. the stylish Georgian institutions Walk through Princes Square, Those cash cows were behind and homes either shut up shop or where in the 19th century there was the spirt of magnificent, elegant continued on their dogged way to a hot air balloon attempt, and two Georgian buildings lining the stay standing. bushrangers were hanged here, and streets of Launceston and beyond. Now these beautiful buildings are the petty fountain was purchased And grand manors were the the pride of Tassie, and Launceston from the Paris Exhibition of 1858. stronghold and centrepiece of rural welcomes visitors to view the Layered and chequered history. holdings. grand buildings and learn the Along George Street there’s a When the fortunes of silver history and mystery behind them. fine terrace of Victorian shops, the waned there was little to sustain The pride in the city is evident as huge Johnstone and Wilmot store Launceston except for subsistence parks and gardens are spruce; food (1842) and the solid complex of farming on the town’s perimeters and wine are proudly displayed – Public Building fronting Cameron, and the logging trade. and imbibed, and the Tamar River is St John and Paterson Streets. From the 1950s through to the at the heart of things as it stretches A cutie in George Street is the beginning of the new millennium 70km. It is from the river that the Umbrella Shop. And it’s full of Launceston mooched along to most breathtaking beauty of the umbrellas of all sorts with vintage the beat of a slow and forgettable Tamar Valley is on show. brollies on display. The shop is drum – and unlike the cities of the run by volunteers and the women mainland, it kept its head down WALK THE WALK here are up for a laugh and a natter when the rash of developers were Get the best of the architecture on about Launceston. making their mark on the rubble of show by walking the streets – look Next up is QVMAG Museum at the past in other cities. up, down and sideways. Collect a Inveresk, it’s free entry and features While heritage buildings were heritage walks map from the Visitor hands-on education for kids (and being ripped from their sandstone Centre and follow the various trails. big kids). You pull, crank, touch and bases and demolished in Sydney, Begin with a stroll through switch your way around the factory. Brisbane and Melbourne (less so) City Park and get a taste of the Another area is quite melancholy to make way for modern high rise green city. There’s a rather lovely – it’s the preserved railway and more than often rather bad greenhouse in the middle of the workshops where the men who architecture, Launceston quite park and surprisingly a group of worked here just downed tools and frankly couldn’t afford to set a Japanese Macaque monkeys in an walked out – it is in a state of stasis

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 17 and a little ghostlike. Fires), Jansz, Heemskerk and Tamar attraction and a fave chill place for And there’s the splendid QVMAG Ridge. locals, Cataract Gorge is beautiful Art Gallery Royal Park, home to Joe fled his war torn Czech and ideal for a walk or picnic – or a changing art, photography and village in 1950 as a penniless swim if the weather is hot enough. sculpture exhibitions. Vast galleries 19-years-old after 11 years of Walk across the suspension present local and international Nazi and Soviet occupation. He bridge and try to name some of the shows. escaped borders guarded by wide range of flora that grows here. You can take an escorted minefields, dogs and soldiers, There’s a café, the world’s Heritage Walk too, wherein a local suffering five month’s privation longest single-span chairlift, a free will give you the lowdown on before immigrating to Australia. outdoor pool and the gorge is only gossip, scandals and tales of rogues Over the next 40 years he used 10 minute’s drive from downtown and rascals who left their mark on his skills as a master butcher to Launceston. Launceston. build his business, Blue Ribbon So, just when you think you’ve Meat Products. In 1993 Blue Ribbon seen all the major cities in Australia, VINO VERITAS was floated on the Australian Stock take time for a little trip to There are some of the country’s Exchange and Josef then invested Launceston, be surprised, charmed most productive and lauded in Tasmania’s fledgling wine and delighted to see what all the wineries in this part of the island. industry. And now in his late 70s he fuss is about. Head for Josef Chromy, who is still active in the industry. has been instrumental to the Have lunch here with a view over FOR MORE ABOUT TASMANIA Tasmanian food and wine industry the lake and vineyards. @mydiscoveries having owned and developed @mydiscoveries some of Tassie’s leading wineries GORGEOUS GORGE [email protected] including Rochecombe (now Bay of Launceston’s most popular tourist www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

FIVE HIGHLIGHTS 1 Check in to Two Four Two Apartments, a cosy place in the best street with Café Mondello for brilliant coffee and a tasty breakfast. 2 Follow up with a stay at the new, luxury extravaganza on the banks of the Tamar - Peppers Silo Hotel. Dating back to the 1960’s, the heritage building which spanned 35 metres high containing grain in four large silos, is an iconic landmark converted into a sophisticated nine-storey hotel providing a unique place to stay in Launceston. 3 Eat at Still Water, one of the island’s most applauded eating places. 4 Don’t miss a visit to pretty Evandale Village for Sunday markets with local produce and craft and the famous Penny Farthing race and village fair, held every February. 5 Take one of a variety of cruises on the Tamar river. Australian kitchens to the table. Daniel has a swag of prestigious culinary awards but a surprise one stands out - Doug Moran Portrait Prize – so take a good look at how your food looks on the plate!

18 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au HERITAGE MEETS CONTEMPORARY LIVING

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20 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au TRAVELLING SOLO ON The Ghan A cosy cabin all to yourself, please yourself for meal times – solo train trips are the new journeys for singles.

TIANA TEMPLEMAN

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 21 MANGURI BONFIRE

NITMILUK GORGE

22 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au Travelling on The Ghan takes you deep into the heart of Australia, on a journey that is widely regarded as one of the world’s great train trips. It is 90 years since The Ghan began its inaugural journey and special celebrations are planned in 2019 to celebrate the anniversary. While many people travel on The Ghan as a couple, having the freedom to please yourself during such a remarkable travel experience is one of the great joys of doing this trip solo. An overnight train journey like The Ghan is the ideal holiday for singles, with the perfect mix of socialising and quiet contemplation, plus there is no need to dine alone. The Ghan also helps single travellers say goodbye (and good riddance) to the dreaded ‘single supplement’ with single Gold Class sleeper cabins. This compact accommodation features a bed that converts to a seat by day and modern shower/toilet facilities at the end of each carriage with excellent water pressure and brand name toiletries. If you don’t like ‘going backwards’ on trains, request a cabin facing the direction of travel when you book. Single cabins on The Ghan are cosy so it is more comfortable if you check your suitcase and bring a small carry on for the journey. If you are staying at a central hotel in either Darwin or Adelaide, you can request a complimentary pick up from your accommodation. Checked luggage is tagged and made available for collection at your final destination. amazing excursions are also available at an additional One of the great joys of this trip is socialising cost, such as camel riding in Alice Springs and a with other travellers in the lounge (bar) car. The helicopter trip over the gorge at Katherine. These are atmosphere is chatty and convivial rather than boozy, booked onboard so if you are thinking of upgrading to the chairs are comfy and the scenery is superb. the helicopter tour, for example, you can check the Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are included weather before you reach for your wallet. in the fare, so there is no need to worry about blowing When you book your journey on The Ghan, allow a your holiday budget if you fancy a coffee or a glass of couple of days to explore Adelaide and Darwin, the wine. two destinations at the beginning and end of the trip. Passengers on The Ghan tend to be well-travelled Darwin offers the chance to go on a sunset sailing and excellent company, with plenty of interesting trip, explore the Australian Aviation Heritage Centre tales to tell. Even if you don’t fancy a drink, the or visit Litchfield National Park on a day tour with AAT lounge car is a lovely spot to read, relax and watch Kings. the scenery roll by or chat with like-minded fellow In Adelaide, you can enjoy a day or overnight trip travellers before dinner. to one of South Australia’s wine regions or explore As there isn’t enough room for everyone to eat in Adelaide’s many galleries. Just one more reason to the restaurant at the same time, your cabin attendant do this epic rail journey which draws travellers from will tell you what time your lunch and dinner bookings around the globe. are each day. These can be early or quite late, such as 2.15pm for lunch, so if you have a preference make sure you get in early with your request. Breakfast is ALL ABOARD FOR MORE TRAIN TRAVEL? free seating anytime before 10am. @mydiscoveries Excursions are included in the cost of the fare and @mydiscoveries include everything from bus tours to nature hikes and [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au a cruise up Nitmiluk Gorge at Katherine. Some truly 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 23 DESTINATIONS

5 THINGS TO DO IN THE Maldives There’s more to this beguiling tropical nation than just overwater bungalows and turquoise lagoons.

ROB MCFARLAND

ANANTARA KIHAVAH - STARGAZING AT SKY

24 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1. STUDY THE STARS Thanks to a lack of ambient light pollution, the Maldives is a great place to star gaze. Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas has the region’s most powerful telescope, a research-grade installation with sweeping views of both hemispheres. Resident astronomer Ali Shameem offers weekly guided star gazing sessions where guests can marvel at Saturn’s rings, Jupiter’s moons and the billions of stars comprising the Milky Way. The best bit? The telescope is next to Sky, the resort’s spectacular rooftop bar, so you can observe the heavens with a glass of champagne in hand (skykihavahmaldives.com).

2. DINE IN THE DEEP Get a different perspective on the Maldives by dining underwater. At Subsix on Niyama Private Islands, guests can feast on lobster medallion and pan- seared seabass while enjoying mesmerising sub-aquatic views of the reef through floor- to-ceiling windows (niyama. com/en/dining/subsix). Sea at Anantara Kihavah Villas has a similarly spectacular setting. Submerged six metres below the ocean surface, the restaurant specialises in seafood degustation menus and has a 450-bottle wine cellar, which for the last five years has been awarded three stars by The World of Fine Wine magazine (seaunderwaterrestaurant.com).

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 25 3. CATCH A WAVE The Maldives is justifiably famous for its tranquil, turquoise lagoons, but thanks to a plethora of coral reefs, it’s also home to some seriously good surfing. Niyama is the only luxury resort with a surf point breaking directly onto the island – a powerful left-hander that has its very own surf school right next door. Five minutes west by speedboat is Kasabu, a glorious right-hander, and when the big swells move in, experienced riders can try Hocus Pocus at Maeenboodhoo Corner and Vodi at Niyama Corner. Not a surfer? Don’t worry, Niyama’s surf bar is also the best place to watch the sunset (niyama.com).

26 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 4. HELP SAVE THE REEF Thanks to global warming and the effects of El Nino, a cyclical weather event that raises sea temperatures, almost all of the Maldives’ once pristine coral reefs have been affected by bleaching. In 2010, Anantara launched a coral reef adoption programme so that guests can help accelerate the reef’s regeneration. At Anantara Dhigu, Anantara Veli, Naladhu Maldives and Niyama Private Islands, guests can work with a marine biologist to plant healthy coral in a reef nursery and then track its progress via photo updates (anantara. com/en/dhigu-maldives/ coral-adoption).

5. GET YOUR HEART PUMPING Think the Maldives is all about eating, drinking and lying by the pool? Think again. Most resorts offer a wide range of activities, from gentle pursuits such as kayaking and stand- up paddleboarding to more intrepid options such as big game fishing and jet skiing. Feeling adventurous? How about parasailing 120 metres above the ocean behind a speedboat? Or careering around a lagoon wearing a James Bond-style jet pack? Niyama Private Islands offers all of the above plus many other adrenaline-fuelled activities including wakeboarding, tubing and kitesurfing (niyama.com).

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 27 DESTINATIONS

The city of pleasure Tangier, a name that conjures myth, legends and exotic stories of decadence and intrigue - go see for yourself.

BEV MALZARD

28 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au There’s the labyrinthine medina, an expat dream town, cafes and souks, tempting tagines – so much to uncover in Morocco’s top town. It’s a city on the edge, always has been, in every way. It squats at the northernmost tip of Africa just 14km across the narrow Strait of Gibraltar connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea, which separates Gibraltar and Peninsula Spain in Europe from Morocco and Ceuta in Africa. This city is more than a destination, it is a heady escape that has attracted spies, outlaws, outcasts, and writers for centuries. All imaginable pleasures were to be had here, back in the 1950s characters such as Errol Flynn, Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton and Ava Gardner did their best to establish Tangier as the last word in louche and hedonism, while writers William Burroughs, Jane and Paul Bowles sought out the dark side of depravity and 1. THE AMERICAN 2. STAY IN THE FABULOUS drug addled derangement. This LEGATION: restored (from HOTEL VILLA DE FRANCE, was Tangier offering a haven to shabby obscurity) the American a hotel with its own secrets and list those who pushed the artistic Legation in the medina is a of celebrity guests. Biggest name boundaries of creativity. 1982 Moorish former consulate, has to be the French impressionist In the 20th century writers drawn which documents early Henri Matisse, who stayed at to Tangier wrote some of the most diplomatic (very peaceful and the hotel in 1912 and 1913. He influential and incendiary works of businesslike) relations between painted some of his great works our time. The Naked Lunch, The the U.S. and Morocco (the here because of the inspiration Sheltering Sky were two of those kingdom of Morocco was the of bright, clear African light, vivid novels that influenced the beat first country to recognise colours and the soft sensuality of generation and future hipsters. American Independence). the landscape and gardens. Tangier has been a strategic The first American public His room is still in the Hotel Villa gateway between Europe and property outside the United de France, room 35, and a few Africa since Phoenician times. States, it commemorates the notes change hands to obtain a There are some startlingly lovely historic cultural and diplomatic night’s stay here. It’s not glamorous buildings in the city with its relations between the United or elaborate, just a sensible double whitewashed hillside medina: States and the Kingdom of bedroom with ensuite. But – it has Moorish mansions, French Morocco. It is now officially the fenetre which is the window to villas and palaces converted to called the Tangier American Tangier! museums. Legation Institute for Moroccan The most famous painting from This is an enigmatic city that Studies, and is a cultural centre, that hotel room period though begs to be explored, so take museum, and a research library, is “Landscape Viewed From a your time and take a glimpse into concentrating on Arabic language Window”. There’s a copy of the modern Tangier. studies. painting in room 35.

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 29 3. LEAVE THE HOTEL 4. THE MEDINA MAZ.E NOW, people jostling, Berber tribal woman BEHIND and across the road INTO THE MEDINA. (A medina wearing wide-brimmed conical hats we see the square white steeple is the old walled city.) with pompoms, and children darting of St Andrew's English church, Across from the church enter through the melee carrying stacks now nearly hidden by date the corner of the medina where of flat bread is a dizzying sensation palms and evergreens. St the bazaar area of the grand souk – but every step is rewarded with a Andrew's Church is one of the (markets) stretch through colourful bold sensation. Just step aside for more curious buildings of Tangier. alleyways. the donkey carts. Completed in 1890 on land granted From baskets, to ropes, to Food is a dream here. Fresh by Sultan Hassan, the interior of carved sticks (to hit what?), hand vegetables, subtle spices, fruit this Anglican church is decorated made cheeses, fruit juices (try and centuries-old cuisine that has in high Fassi style, with the Lord’s the pomegranate), stalls groaning been refined by many invaders, Prayer in Arabic curving over the with mountains of olives of all protectorates, governing bodies, altar. persuasions and flavours, hats, religions – there’s something for The graveyard yields history sweets, dates, breads (the staple everyone. wherein the journalist, socialite food of Moroccans), butchers and traveller Walter Harris is buried with nose to tail pieces on display 5. FOOD Be warned – bring here, along with Squadron Leader (and so clean and fly-free), camel your appetite to Morocco. Food Thomas Kirby Green, one of the meat with the obligatory head (real servings are big and hearty. Must prisoners of war shot during the one) hanging to advertise the fact eats are the traditional tagines, 'Great Escape'. There is also a that this is real camel meat, shoes, meat, fowl or vegetable, cous cous sobering section of war graves buckets and nuts of all sorts, fat Tagines are basically an aromatic of entire downed aircrews, their and fresh. stew cooked with a thick sauce headstones attached shoulder to Walking though the crowded with fruits such as prunes and shoulder. curved alleys of food and noise and dates; harira is a delicious soup

30 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au normally made from chick peas; traditional Moroccan house or the best time to come here is at pastille – a dish made from pigeon palace with an interior garden sunset, when you can see dusk meat, rice and egg and covered or courtyard). Homes and shops settle over the Atlantic. with a sweet filo pastry – sounds are all spick and span and the This is Tangier, short on weird but – it’s scrumptious. houseproud Moroccans keep their conventional attractions but it's If you fancy a glass of wine with entrances well-swept and houses the artfully aged fabric of the city your dinner you will have to hunt and windows painted fresh and in itself - the magnificent ruination out a shop, but most good hotels pretty colours. of the Cervantes theatre, the lush and restaurants have a wine list, graveyard gardens of St Andrew's and wine is produced in Morocco 7. AND SHOPPING. Leather church, or the casbah walls' so give it a try. slippers called babouche tiled starbursts - which supplies Due to legal restrictions of (French for slippers), argan oil, the spectacle. The sights come Morocco being a Muslim country, lanterns, wonderful leather goods, thick and fast in a city where its remember that drinking in public is beautifully decorated pottery and compactness is a big slice of its prohibited. carpets and mats are in abundance charm. and on display, art every corner. 6. TAKE IN THE SUNSET Shopping here is a sport and the The writer travelled with VIEWS of the harbour after prizes are great indeed. www.bypriorarrangment.com walking through the medina that tumbles down to the sea. The 8. TAKE A TANGIER SIDE old homes are hidden and only a TRIP: Cap Spartel marks Africa’s READ MORE ABOUT MOROCCO fancy or perhaps a modest door tip. The promontory projects into @mydiscoveries and decorated doorway indicates the water, marking the boundary @mydiscoveries [email protected] that there’s life behind the door. of the Mediterranean Sea with the www.mydiscoveries.com.au It can be a vast riad (a type of Atlantic Ocean. For atmosphere, 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 31 INSPIRATION

JEERA ALOO

Tasting India Spice is nice in the aromatic foods of India. Here are the basic dishes not to miss.

BETHANY PLINT

32 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au PAKORAS

If you ask someone who has travelled to India about the cuisine, the first thing they’ll tell you is that it’s different to the watered-down version on offer in the west. They might also mention how vegetarian-friendly it is. In India, every dish is packed with flavour from a variety of spices, but most feature the essentials: cumin, garam masala, turmeric, and, of course, chilli powder.

PAKORA Pakoras are a favourite comfort MASALA DOSA food for locals. You’ll find dozens of street vendors selling different sprinkling of garam masala, chilli these a “snack”, but you may want varieties of this fried snack, and powder and coriander. One to share one. A classic dosa masala they’re almost always served in spoonful at a time, these glorious requires a good batter made from the home for guests because treats turn golden brown in a deep rice flour, dal (lentils), fenugreek they’re easy to make in big batches. pan of oil or ghee (clarified butter). seeds and salt. Once the ‘crepe’ Pakoras are essentially fried clumps The locals dip them in mint chutney is cooked on a flat, round iron, of battered vegetables, served with and tomato sauce! the dosa is stuffed with spiced chutney. Most recipes recommend potatoes. The dosa comes with choosing one or two vegetables. DOSA chutneys and sambar; a lentil and Potatoes, cauliflower, eggplant, India’s answer to the savoury crepe. vegetable sauce that usually has onion and spinach are popular The first things you’ll notice about a bit of kick to it. (I have this for inclusions. The batter consists of these crispy treats is their size. breakfast every day when in India: chickpea flour, with a generous They’re enormous. Indians consider Editor)

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 33 SAMOSA BREAD PAKORA

SAMOSA The locals prefer their chai with essential Indian experience. It’s like Samosas are perhaps the most lots of sugar but you can ask for it an all-you-can-eat buffet, but with well-known Indian snack. Shapes without. Enjoy it black or with milk. your own personal servings. Waiters vary by region but they’re usually will come around and top up your folded into a triangles. Common BREAD PAKORA dishes constantly. A thali is a type fillings include mashed potatoes, This is a common street food of round serving plate with multiple onions, peas, lentils and sultanas. among locals but many foreigners bowls and sections. Usually, you The dough is rolled flat, folded into don’t seem to understand the hype. would choose your selection of a cone shape, then stuffed, pinched Imagine the sandwich triangles dishes by region. Southern Indian at the top and fried. you put in your kids’ lunchboxes – cuisine is usually coconut-based, battered and deep fried. The main whereas northern or Rajasthan food CHAI MASALA question is, why? Because Indians tends to contain more dairy and In India, chai is a way of life, or so I love fried food. Also known as meat-based curries. read on many a gift shop t-shirt. The bread bhajis, these pakora-style term translates to tea with spices. sandwiches usually come with a JEERA ALOO The core ingredients are black spiced mashed potato filling. After Potatoes are a huge part of Indian (Assam) tea, cinnamon, cardamon, a good dunk in a bowl of chickpea cooking. Most home cooked meals ginger and peppercorns. Recipes batter, they’re submerged in a pool contain an element of protein vary by household and are often of molten-hot oil or ghee. (lentils or meat), rice, bread and seasonal. In summer, they use vegetables. Jeera aloo, or cumin cooler spices such as tamarind and THALIS potatoes, are a popular (and fennel seeds. During winter, nutmeg More of an eating style than a food delicious) vegetable side dish. and cinnamon feature prominently. on its own, a Thali-style dinner is an They’re not too spicy either, so

34 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au they’re great for kids easing into Indian cuisine. Diced potatoes are shallow fried and tossed with cumin seeds, turmeric, curry powder, salt and pepper, then finished off with a squeeze of lemon.

ROTI Flatbreads are an essential element of most Indian meals. Something that will surprise westerners is that Indians rarely eat, let alone cook naan bread. Traditional naan bread requires a clay oven, something most households don’t have. It requires a lot of time and effort to knead the dough, and the flour required is difficult to digest. For these reasons, naan is more of a special occasion food. But that’s not to say Indians don’t eat their fair share of breads. Paratha, chapati, poori, kachori, bhakri, parithi, appam; I could go on. Each bread differs by choice of flour and cooking method. Most are relatively easy to make at home and form an integral part of every main meal. ROTI ALOO GOBI This vegetarian dish is simple but ALOO GOBI flavoursome and wildly popular all over India, Pakistan and Nepal. The English translation, ‘potato & cauliflower’, reveals the two main ingredients. The other elements include cumin, chilli powder, ginger, garlic and, most importantly, turmeric which gives the dish its signature yellow colour.

Try as many different dishes as you can. Quell your fears of Delhi belly by taking a few probiotics before you leave and pack some Imodium, you know, just in case.

FANCY A TRIP TO INDIA? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 35 INSPIRATION

WHY YOU WILL LOVE THE Terracotta Warriors ALISON GODFREY

36 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 37 38 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au I expected the Terracotta villagers set. the mountain is tall. And legend Warriors to be lined up, facing The Terracotta Warriors were has it that it is surrounded by a straight, polished and secure. the life-long project of China’s first mercury river. Scientific studies of Instead, I’m looking at what is emperor Qin Shuhuang. Qin ruled the ground close to the mountain essentially still an archaeological from 7 May 247 BC to 220 BC. He do indeed show high levels of dig. And that’s what makes a visit was just 13 when he took the throne mercury. Qun survived multiple here so brilliant. and 14 when he began to build his assassination attempts but died Once inside Pit One, the most own tomb and the spectacular at the age of 49 from suspected famous pit, you need to jostle for terracotta army. Emperor Qin mercury poisoning. According to position to obtain that first glance. believed the Terracotta Warriors our guide, he drank a little bit of We squeeze through the crowd would follow him into the afterlife mercury every day because he to the left of the main entrance and come to life as a vast army. believed it gave him superpowers. and slowly push our way to the It’s not known how many After the Qin dynasty, the Hans front barrier. Once there, we Terracotta Warriors actually exist. took over. And in some places, you gaze out on row after row after So far three enormous pits have can actually see Han bones still on row of terracotta warriors. Their been discovered. There may be the ground. outstretched hands once held more. It took 720,000 builders to build flags or weapons. But many of The sight of the Terracotta the Terracotta Warriors. The these were stolen by farmers who Warriors is different from Qin’s project took at least 30 years and ransacked the tomb following the tomb. That still remains untouched many builders were locked into the emperor’s death. Some still have under a nearby mountain. Qin’s building site until their deaths. scorch marks from the fire the body is said to be as far down as The warriors were moulded in

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 39 SPECTACULAR BRONZE HORSES parts, fired and then assembled. the pit, you can’t help but feel time and the soldiers were slowly They once had brilliant colours. A overwhelmed. The soldiers in the crushed and broken by soil that few examples of colour warriors first few rows stand at attention, piled on top of them. Evidence remain locked behind glass cases. facing the incoming crowd. of this destruction is still visible. But for most of them, exposure to But it’s a little further back that Inside Vault One many Terracotta the elements quickly faded the the magic happens. Warriors lie smashed and cracked colour. In the middle of the pit and on the sides. Slowly, piece by They’re not all the same. sprightly young man pushes a piece, the archaeologists are Different ranks of soldiers have wheelbarrow up a steep slope. putting them back together, a different hairstyles. Differences He’s carting dirt – uncovering more jigsaw of history. can also be seen on the shoes and ancient remains. Cranes are used to hold chunks the armour. Horses have also been The Terracotta Warriors were of terracotta aloft at the back of pit uncovered. discovered in 1974 by two farmers as horses and soldiers are slowly Qin is also credited with building digging a well. For years the farmers are carefully resurrected. Headless the first roads through China. These had wondered why the crops soldiers await their heads. Arms are may perhaps be some of the first would not grow around the area. splinted and other bodies lie on roads in the world. Archeologists Two more pits were discovered in what looks like operating tables. are still unearthing them in the 1976. In 1979 China constructed a If you make the mistake of fields nearby. But it’s the Terracotta museum over the sight and allowed walking back out the main door Warriors that most people come tourists to view the work. instead of walking all around Vault to see. Wooden covers over the pits One – you will miss this most As you stand overlooking of soldiers had decayed over fascinating glimpse into the work of

40 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au XIAN MARKET

archaeologists. Pit two, Pit three and the museum offer more treasures including spectacular bronze horses. The tiny bronze tassles are still the subject of archaeological discussion – how were they made? How did they get them thin? Other sights to see in Xian include the city wall, the Muslim Quarter and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. For delicious noodles and dumplings head to First Noodle Under the Sun close to the Wild Goose Pagoda.

WANT TO TRAVEL TO CHINA? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 41 INSPIRATION

FIVE FAB FINDS IN Brisbane While we shiver in southern Australia as winter ends, head to the balmy, warm climate of Brisbane – a city that shines with great attractions and a welcome smile. KERRY HEANEY

MR PERCIVAL'S, HOWARD SMITH WHARVES

42 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1.EXPLORING UNDER THE STORY BRIDGE How did Brisbane ever survive without the Howard Smith Wharves precinct under the Story Bridge? It is the name on everybody’s lips when it comes to sundowner drinks, local beer tastings or cocktails by the river, all framed by New Farm’s sheer stone cliffs. Positioned on 3.4 hectares of overlooked land on the edge of the Brisbane River, the historic wharf buildings have been reworked to redefine Brisbane’s food and leisure experiences. The precinct includes restaurants and bars such as Greca, Arc Dining and Wine Bar, Mr Percival’s and Felons Brewing Co where locally grown ingredients are turned into tasty brews. Visit: howardsmithwharves.com

2. THE INK HAS JUST DRIED Hotly anticipated, Signature is the lux finale to the food offering at five-star Emporium Hotel South Bank. It’s an extravaganza of pink marble bars, glass bubble lights, towering pink orchids and a wine library with 6,000 bottles of wine. The menu from Executive Chefs Chris Norman and Alex Liddle has a focus on local and premium produce frequently changing with seasonality. It’s fine dining with a romantic edge and sure to find favour with food lovers. Finish your meal here with a ride in the lifts which feature surprising floor to ceiling video screens. You will think you are swimming on the Great Barrier Reef. emporiumhotels.com.au

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 43 3. WHALE WATCHING FROM MORETON BAY There is no need to venture far from Brisbane to catch the annual procession of Humpback whales as they migrate from Antarctica through the clear, clean waters of Moreton Bay. A day out with Captain Kerry Lopez on MV Eye Spy will put you within metres of the whales as they play, breach and blow in the bay. Turtles, dolphins, stingrays and dugongs also appear as the vessel motors along the shoreline of Moreton Island. The VIP package will see you enjoying everything in style in an exclusive lounge, including access to the wheelhouse. Visit: brisbanewhalewatching.com.au

4. STARGAZING FROM SIR THOMAS BRISBANE PLANETARIUM Expect an out of this world experience with two new shows at the Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium at Mt Coot-tha. The new $1.4 million state-of-the-art projector system on the 12.5-metre-diameter Cosmic Skydome is programmed to deliver an intergalactic experience. There are real-time video and virtual explorations as well as dome- casting to other planetariums across the globe. If you have always wanted to see the northern lights, time-lapse images taken over seven months in the Arctic Circle in the Experience the Aurora show will delight. Visit: brisbane.qld.gov.au

44 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 5. EDITOR’S PICK surrounded by designer fashion, Best location for me was Sage award winning restaurants, cafes Hotel in James Street Fortitude and clubs, stylish beauty salons Valley. The hotel is in the heart of and much more. the stylish James Street precinct With parking, complimentary in the ‘valley’. The 93 rooms here gym access to Function Well are crafted to compliment the 24-hour Fitness and the Valley innovative living areas all with Pool, both minutes from the hotel, free Wi-Fi. The Standard rooms a complimentary chauffeur to feature a DreamWeave Sleep transport you to city locations, System Queen bed, 48" full there is always something to HD LED television, high speed excite and inspire our guest within Wi-Fi, movies, an espresso the neighbourhood. machine together with a stunning There’s no restaurant in the bathroom with a walk-in shower hotel but you’ll receive a voucher and stocked with revitalising for the café next door, Tippler’s SOAK amenities. Tap (and they do particularly good Nestled in the heart of eggs there). fashionable James Street Precinct Close by is the The James St in Fortitude Valley and one of Cooking School, the fabulous Brisbane’s premium suburbs, Gerard’s Bistro for retail therapy Sage Hotel brings a melding head to Assembly Label and Kova of the traditional and modern Lifestyle.

MORE ABOUT BRISBANE? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 45 CRUISING

REVISITING THE HOME OF THE Last Samurai The English have not always been welcome in Kagoshima, but time heals old wounds. We step ashore from a very British ship to find history and serenity in equal measure. ROD EIME

SENGANEN GARDEN

46 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au The comparative tagline, ‘The Naples of the Orient’ is not so hard to conjure with the giant, smoking volcano, Sakurajima, ominously shadowing the southern Japanese port city of Kagoshima just as Vesuvius does in the Mediterranean. As we move through the meticulously maintained Senganen Garden, once the site of Japan’s early metalworks and armoury, the Edo-period grounds are now tranquil and all that remains of the once noisy foundry are the bare foundations. The significance of this location is not lost to present day ambivalence as Isoteien (its other official name) achieved UNESCO World Heritage status in 2015 as part of the ‘Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution’. For several centuries, Kagoshima was home to the powerful COLUMBUS Satsuma clan, a particularly fierce dynasty of samurai of which Saigō Takamori was the last. The tough warlord’s fateful resistance to the new Empire of Japan formed the inspiration for Tom Cruise’s 2003 blockbuster, The Last Samurai, as well as James Clavell's 1993 novel, Gai-Jin. Kagoshima was bombarded by the British in 1863 after the clan failed to pay reparations demanded by them following the murder of an English trader in the so-called Namamugi Incident. Saigō Takamori ultimately committed ritual suicide in 1877, thus ending the rebellion and paving the way for the city’s modern foundation in 1889. The port was historically a strategic naval base, playing vital roles for Japan in both World Wars. To the south of the port is the Chiran Peace Museum at the site of a former wartime airfield. It was from here that young men and boys flew their one and only SATSUMA CLAN mission as Army tokkō pilots

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 47 SAKURAJIMA AT SUNSET of Special Attack Units (aka the Mediterranean, the Middle East have been set aside for exclusive kamikaze). Opened in 1975, this and North Africa. use by solo travellers and 75 per poignant exhibit contains many Columbus will be familiar to cent of all cabins have an ocean personal effects, photographs and many Australian cruisers because view. stories of these brave young souls up until 2017, she sailed with P&O The large, two-tiered Palladium whose sole objective was to give Australia as Pacific Pearl and now Show Lounge plays host to their life for the Emperor. joins the fast-growing CMV fleet as quality theatrical and musical Predictably, Kagoshima was also their proud new flagship. productions. Two specialty targeted in the last few months The 10-year-old cruise line has restaurants, Fusion and Grill, of WWII by the US, when 120 B-29 been on something of a pre-teen supplement the main, two-sitting bombers destroyed nearly half growth spurt these last couple of dining room, Waterfront, where I of the built-up area in a single years, expanding its fleet to six found the quality of cuisine well incendiary attack. vessels with the recent acquisition above that of many ships at a Today the port is still a busy of the former P&O ships, Pacific higher price point. Seven bars, mercantile centre and an Pearl and Pacific Eden and ‘pubs’ and lounges ensure there increasingly popular cruise converting them for largely child- is ample space to relax and enjoy destination thanks to many cultural free cruising in our waters and the company of your companions. and natural attractions in the beyond. Popular shipboard activities vicinity. This is my second visit CMV’s style of cruising is very include bingo (of course), trivia, to the southwestern tip of the ‘British’ in the classic sense, arts and crafts, and even music island of Kyushu and this time I am favouring smaller, more convivial classes where guests form their aboard the new Cruise & Maritime ships compared to the massive own band. Voyages (CMV) flagship, the megaliners more common today. Well might we say “Britannia 1400-passenger Columbus. Even though Columbus represents Rules the Waves” because CMV Kagoshima is just one of scores an increase of around 150 berths reminds us that ‘British’ may still be of ports offered by CMV as their over the next largest, Magellan, the way to the world. ships circle the globe visiting it does not mean a reduction in standout destinations such as any of the services or facilities. FOR MORE CRUISE NEWS Japan, China, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Columbus adds 64 balcony cabins, @mydiscoveries Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore, previously in short supply in the @mydiscoveries Malaysia, Sri Lanka and India in Asia rest of the fleet. Also in response [email protected] www.mydiscoveries.com.au as well as many more in Europe, to past guest requests, 150 cabins 1300 404 606

48 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au FIVE SHIPSHAPE TIPS 1 The biggest ship in the CMV fleet, Columbus, carries just 1400 passengers. 2 CMV will homeport Vasco da Gama in Adelaide and Fremantle COLUMBUS POOL DECK for the 2019-2020 cruise season, offering local itineraries. 3 CMV’s Astoria is a true classic ocean liner, built in 1948 for the trans-Atlantic route and rebuilt in 1994 at a cost of US$150 million. She carries just 550 passengers. 4 More than 40 per cent of CMV guests are repeat cruisers, with a 95 per cent satisfaction rating. 5 This year, Vasco da Gama will be the first passenger ship to call at Wallaroo in SA in more than 60 years. COLUMBUS ATRIUM RECEPTION DECK

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 49 CRUISING Mixing it up Grandparents and teenagers! How to make it work while cruising. WENDY FERNANDES

50 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au As our cruise ship left Tilbury, sacrosanct and a great way to catch England, there were four up on the day. We also always went passengers on board with very to the evening shows together mixed emotions. Two teenage and much to our surprise the girls girls (13 and 15) full of excitement loved them. Talks by guest speakers but with absolutely no idea what were a no no and having tried a to expect, and two 70-year-old couple of the activities laid on by grandparents wondering if they had the entertainment crew these were made the biggest mistake of their deemed to be for ‘young kids’. One lives! 15 days cruising with seven of our worst fears before we went sea days. What were we all going to on the cruise was that there would do and how would the girls survive not be enough other teenagers without Wi-Fi? They normally have but they soon found all that there their phones superglued to their were! Certain areas of the ship were hands unless they are eating. We out of bounds to unaccompanied oldies on the other hand view children (casino and bars) and so we cruising as a great relaxation and began to relax. We purposely didn’t embarkation to ensure there are have our Kindles loaded with books. activate the girls’ ships cards so enough other young people and So off we sail - “dinner at six girls, they couldn’t make any purchases our cruise was advertised as multi and no you can’t wear board shorts and insisted on their coming to our generational. and have your midriff showing”. cabin to say goodnight at 10 p.m. When I asked our two teenagers We left them to unpack then Despite listening carefully for the for their opinions about the cruise we explored the ship together. opening and shutting of cabin doors they said they loved it and “when Swimming pool looked small, we never heard anything! But we can we go again?” They found theatre big like something out of the did have a knock on our cabin door meeting up with other teenagers West End; how many lifts and why one night at 11p.m to be faced with easy, they really enjoyed visiting is there no deck 13 and which way a very embarrassed young man different ports and the good food. is the back (aft) and which the front holding one of our Granddaughters’ They liked that dinner was served (fore)? hoodies having got the wrong but lunch was a help yourself buffet Dinner was a great success - they door! Best not to ask we decided, - breakfast didn’t feature in their were more dressed up and made- and anyway we had been chatting experience! The only negative was up than we were! Three courses and to his parents in the bar earlier. that there was very little organised a lovely Filipino waiter. “Tomorrow The itinerary was ideal - entertainment for teenagers it’s Amsterdam so we need to be up Amsterdam, Gibraltar, 3 Canary compared to under 12’s and over at 8 o’clock” - no word of protest Islands, Madeira and finally Lisbon. 18’s “but” can we please skip breakfast?” As far as teenagers are concerned As for planning for a cruise with And so the pattern of shore days anywhere new is exciting and Grandchildren we found it a good are set. Up and disembark early, see days at sea are not a problem to idea to ask them to do a bit of the sights, quick trip to Starbucks them as that is their free time to research about ports of call so (“just to check our messages”,) spend with their new friends. From they could contribute to the day’s take photos and find somewhere a Grandparents perspective it’s a planning. We took card games back near the ship to do Snapchat, great way to spend time with your (never opened) and bought them a Instagram and WhatsApp. Grandchildren in a safe environment new book each. Otherwise we just Next three days were sea days with both lots having time to went with the flow andI think I can so now what? Girls found us in the themselves as well. Not a cheap safely say a good time was had by lounge at midday, which was just option of course, but when you all. as well as if they weren’t in their factor in all meals being provided cabin we had no idea where they plus entertainment, and doing as might be! We quickly learnt to be we did our own shore excursions FOR MORE ON FAMILY CRUISING in one of two places and let them not the exorbitant ones offered by @mydiscoveries find us if they wanted, and as the the Cruise lines it’s not bad value. @mydiscoveries [email protected] days went by that was less and You need to make sure it’s school/ www.mydiscoveries.com.au less often. Dinner at six was always college holidays in the country of 1300 404 606

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 51 CRUISING

CruisingMAKES A GREAT ACCESSIBLE HOLIDAY

52 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au Cruises are proving a popular choice for Australian travellers. Not only do they offer great value for money with all meals and many activities included in the package price, but there’s good accessibility on many of the ships. Passengers with mobility restrictions can take hoists, commodes and shower chairs on board making it easier to travel with specific equipment. Cabin choice – book accessible cabins well in advance as they are about this service. in high demand. Travel consultants Guests with a hearing know the ships well and will help impairment – some cruise lines you with your cabin choice. The will provide visual or tactile alert location can make the difference systems for guests. between a good cruise experience Double check all your and a nightmare one (imagine being requirements with you travel agent in the cabin beneath the dance or travel provider. floor). Guests with Autism or Research shore excursions developmental disabilities – Priority prior to booking – Not all shore boarding, dietary accommodation excursions will be accessible. and other services are provided by Some tenders may not be able to some cruise lines. accommodate wheelchair users. Accessible features on board Check with your travel consultant – not all cruise ships are created ahead of time. equal when it comes to access. Dietary requirements – cruises Some ships offer pool hoists and can cater to specific dietary other facilities which may make requirements and provide blended your holiday more inclusive and fun. foods if needed. Advise the cruise company at the time of booking if this is required. MORE ON CRUISING? @mydiscoveries Guests with vision impairment – @mydiscoveries some cruise ships will provide large [email protected] print menus and orientation tours. www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 Enquire when making a booking

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 53 CRUISING

A silver lining Cruising in luxury is attainable. But be warned, once experienced...you can never go back. BEV MALZARD

BOROBUDUR 54 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au To experience a small ship, elegant Shangri-La in Singapore and took an all-time high and my sense of surroundings, gourmet bespoke off the next morning for a luxurious, adventure on alert! restaurants, places to visit that soft cruisy adventure. We explored the ship to scope only small ships can snuggle into We were welcomed onboard out where all the restaurants were and . . . to have a butler on hand is warmly by white-gloved staff and located and planned to try all of something to save and strive for. promptly escorted to our suite. A them before the cruise ended. The OK, this takes money but so large suite opened up with fresh main restaurant, The Restaurant do other cruises that aren’t so flowers on the table, a bottle of is where our first meal was tasted exclusive . . . so pick your luxury bubbly on ice, a large balcony and we ate outside with new cruise and work towards it. This will and two tricky TV’s that were friends. From that night on whether be an incredible experience, and really mirrors that were also TV’s. at breakfast, lunch or dinner – the quite likely ruin you for any mega (I suddenly became technically staff remembered how I like my ship trips. challenged re the mirrored tv – one coffee and which brand of tea Silversea Voyages was, and is my in front of the bed and one in the I preferred. From the first meal, company of choice for the ultimate ‘living’ room.) Our butler smoothly gastronomic excellence was on the ‘spoil yourself rotten’ experience. fixed it all – with no judgement. menu – and we tried and tested Our ship from the fleet is Silver Around the world and around every meal – and could not find Muse. the clock, every suite comes with fault. As if. Silversea Voyages has itineraries a dedicated butler to pamper you that will take you to ply the waters with personalised attention and EXPLORING of many countries and continents take care of every detail of the After a gentle sleep our first day across the world. voyage was at sea. A day to be pampered My cruise was from Singapore to As the ship departed Singapore at the Zagara Spa – nothing . We overnighted at the elegant my sense of well-being was at like a good massage to get the

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 55 endorphins into shape. ’s towering National character. Colonial style furniture in We checked out the boutique, Monument or somewhere more dark wood and tall slatted windows, small with selective items, the my speed, Jalan Surabaya’s gaggle Dutch-era food blended with the theatre, the intimate nooks to read of shops and kiosks where there spices of Indonesia, invite you in. and relax and enjoyed lunch on the is eclectic items for sale. Retro We missed what was coming in pool deck – a casual plate of curry rules here and you can pick up old the evening though – live music on with a cold beer set the tone for Elvis records, vintage handbags or stage every night. the afternoon. curious art pieces. Out of the steamy heat of the Jakarta hadn’t made my ‘must My favourite stop in Jakarta spice islands and onboard the visit’ travel list so the excursion on was in the Old Town, where all Silver Muse for the promise of the second day was a dive into the of life is seen in Fatahilla Square. a grand evening ahead in the sprawling, traffic-crazed place that This is where the famous Wayang prettiest restaurant on the ship – was a frenetic introduction to a city Museum (founded in 1975) houses Indochine - for an elegant array swelling with 18 million inhabitants. exquisite puppets from all regions of tastings from the Asian region The city displays the richness of of Indonesia and neighbouring reflected in the name. the new buildings, malls, business countries. The museum is built on a Next day after breakfast in bed centres and fancy hotels alongside site that dates back to 1640. (ooooh the luxury of this), thank rows of shanty homes and But we almost missed the you our fave butler. And today evidence of entrenched poverty. highlight of the square, Café Batavia. was freewheeling on an island by No apologies for anything in We had been looking for love in ourselves. A quick tender trip to Jakarta and best way to enjoy is all the wrong places! This divine Karimunjawa, a tropical hideaway to take in the museums, central café hails from the 1830s and oozes where the Silver Muse staff had set

56 MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au up food and drinks while us spoilt gardens the mountainous structure on any given day. passengers swam and lazed about. sprawls and invites the hardy to And towards the end of the A grand day indeed. climb, and climb and climb. I didn’t journey we counted our ship After such a big day out – it quite reach Nirvana (it was too hot) experiences against the excursions was pizzas on deck and a movie but got a few spiritual stamps for – it was a tie! Well, maybe except afterwards. my effort. for the trivia afternoons – it got And the exploration continues. It was built around 780-850AD pretty damn competitive, but fun. Next day we berth in the intriguing and wasn’t exposed to western Sad to leave the stunning Silver port of Semarang, with its eyes until 1814 when Thomas Muse to re-join the real life but network of narrow canals. The Stamford Raffles stumbled up it (he as we left we gave a list of our city is a mix of various times in really got around didn’t he?). favourite places to our butler and history Chinese, Dutch, Javanese After our architectural, spiritual his mate our room attendant who influences are seen in temples, and physical exertions we were were going to have a couple of mosques and lattice-fronted lead to a covered annex, where days off in Sydney soon. Sharing cottages. Then a drive to the lunch was and were entertained by the love. It’s all relative isn’t it? mother load – Borobudur – one of a local traditional dance troupe. the most photographed Buddhist Another long day and time to try shrines on the world. A UNESCO the Atlantide restaurant which is WANT TO GO CRUISING? @mydiscoveries World Heritage site, this massive so popular that we had to book the @mydiscoveries complex is the ultimate guide to day before. [email protected] enlightenment. Surrounded by What a gloriously luxurious cruise www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 lush scenic forests and trimmed this has been. And not a stuffy note

MY DISCOVERIES | www.mydiscoveries.com.au 57 www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606

ANANTARA KIHAVAH, MALDIVES - COULD ANYWHERE ELSE BE AS DREAMY?