NOT FOR SALE TRAVEL GEMS TRAVEL PURSUITS KENYA COUNTRY BEAUTY in the industry say the future is bright the future say in the industry INDUSTRY contributing billions to the economy. Those economy. contributing billions to the The hair and beauty industry in Kenya is big in Kenya The hair and beauty industry business, employing hundreds of people and hundreds business, employing INTEL BRANDED HOTELS | January - March, 2019 | January - March, TRENDS SPORTS MARKETING SPORTS Corporate Magazine Corporate Lessons a from hair loss doctor When a haircut is not enough The rise of branded in hotels Kenya Regulated2 by| the Central Bank of Kenya 32 When a haircut is not enough There is a new breed of men. They are not content with a regular haircut and are willing to pay a premium to be pampered

6 Global hotel chains make a beeline for Kenya Increase in the development of hotels and the refurbishment of existing ones is an indication of confidence that investors have in Kenya

40 Beauty on-demand With more people willing to pay to look good, most make-up artists are willing to come right to your doorstep

22 34 Booming cosmetics industry a goldmine for start-ups The making of a strong Kenyan brand Savvy entrepreneurs are riding For the last 24 years, Terry Mungai, proprietor of the wave and making a killing Ashleys Kenya, has nurtured her company and in the KShs.6.6 billion industry helped rewrite the grooming rule book

Hidden travel destinations This year, aim to explore some of the lesser known tourist destinations for a unique travel experience. These spots might take you off the beaten road, but you’re sure to 50 find something unique and unforgettable. | 3 WORDFROM THEEDITOR Behold the beauty

t has been said that beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. And so it is with this issue; we have taken a deep dive into the beauty industry, and the facts are staggering. I For a bank, we’ve made According to Euromonitor, beauty in a bold, and brave move Kenya is a KShs.58 billion industry, that provides a livelihood to delve into the beauty for hundreds of thousands of people, from beauticians to industry through manufacturers of the myriad of beauty products. The hair our KCB 2jiajiri industry is worth over KShs.12 billion! programme. Under It is therefore clear that the beauty industry has remained the KShs.50 billion highly underrated over the years. KCB Group Head of Corporate and youth empowerment Regulatory Affairs To understand the industry better, we spoke to several hair programme, we are Judith Sidi Odhiambo care manufacturers, from Haco Tiger Brands who control 37 per training the youth cent of the Kenyan hair care market to Indian multinational Director Marketing and Communications across different Angela Mwirigi Godrej Consumer Products Limited, which owns Darling Kenya sectors including hair and who have great insights into the hair care industry trends. and beauty. Brand Manager Marketing and With increasing demand for Afrocentric hair and Communications skin care products by African women, Kenya Charity Wanjau manufacturers like Alkhemy Brands Limited, KCB Group Corporate and Regulatory makers of the Mikalla range of hair products, Affairs, Kencom House, Nairobi are creating products for customers who Tel:0711087000 or 0732187000 / 0711012199 prefer to wear their natural hair. www.kcbgroup.com The Kenyan beauty and cosmetics market Facebook: KCB Group has been fired up by the growing middle Twitter: @KCBGroup Instagram: @KCBGroup class and the increasing influence of social media. This platform has enabled start- Give us your feedback at: ups to grow into a multi-million shilling [email protected] companies. KCB Venture is published for KCB In this issue, we speak to Suzie Wokabi, Group by Oxygène MCL who launched the first cosmetics company in [email protected] Kenya SuzieBeauty in 2012. Her dream of one www.oxygene.co.ke day starting her own cosmetics line changed the Editor and KCB Bank Corporate cosmetics retail market in Kenya. Communications Manager From lipsticks to beard oils, and hair loss treatments, Peter Mwaura we have seen an industry emerge. An interesting thing Project Editor that has emerged is male grooming, which is no Anne Mathenge longer seen as an underground practice, with the sub-sector now valued at KShs.4.7 billion. Production Editors: Mugumo Munene, Esther Karuru, Mutave Mutemi, John For a bank, we have made a bold, and brave move Ngirachu to delve into the beauty industry through our KCB 2jiajiri programme. Under the KShs.50 billion youth Contributing writers: Josephine Mosongo, Donald Kogai, Felix Brian empowerment programme, we are training the youth Onyango across different sectors including hair and beauty. In the last two years, 203 students have been accorded Art Director: Dennis Makori full scholarships to train at Ashley’s Hair and Beauty KCB Venture is available at all corporate Academy. Each of these graduates will work at the Ashleys branches and at select hotels and Mashinani franchise outlets. businesses in Nairobi.

In this issue, we have also looked at how international ©2018 No part of the contents may be hotels are making a beeline for Kenya and also taken a look reproduced without prior permission at the business of sports marketing among other interesting from the publishers. All advertisements features. Enjoy the read. and non-commissioned texts are taken in good faith. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and KCB Editor-in-Chief Venture assume no responsibility for effects arising therefrom.

4 | OPINION

Political stability key to Kenya’s economic growth prospects in 2019

Peter Kathanga 5.5% in 2019 and 5.4% in 2020 due to prudent monetary policy. fter a tumultuous year Among downside risks projected by that began on the wrong the World Bank are possible difficulties end of our national fabric in making fiscal consolidation friendly due to animosity over If the political to growth and in sourcing for affordable A the hotly contested environment finance for the budget deficit caused and controversial 2017 remains stable, by tightening global markets. Boosting presidential polls, 2019 could bring with it Kenya’s economy domestic resource mobilization and better economic growth prospects. Among will for the first enhancing government spending efficiency the key issues that could shape economic time in a decade are critical to restrain public borrowing. conversations this year is whether a law hit a six per cent Kenya continues to face the challenges on interest rate caps will be repealed, the growth rate in of inadequate infrastructure, income national census, a new currency, and the 2019. inequality, and increased joblessness. political climate. In this issue, we have The need to raise additional tax put the spotlight on beauty, with in depth revenues to finance economic development articles on the billion-shilling industry. motivated the government to tax mobile According to the African Development transactions in 2013. Poorly designed tax Bank, Kenya’s real GDP is projected policies, when applied to retail electronic to grow by 6% in 2019 and 6.1% in 5.5% transactions as well as bank transactions, 2020. Domestically, improved business Projected rate of can potentially reverse economic gains confidence, rising household income from inflation in 2019 from mobile banking, especially for low- agriculture and lower food prices and income earners who rely heavily on these continued macroeconomic stability will services. contribute to growth. The interest rate cap Kenya’s Big Four economic plan, will likely curb the availability of credit. introduced in 2017, focuses on Externally, tourism and the strengthening manufacturing, affordable housing, global economy will contribute. universal health coverage, and food The stable political climate is likely security. It envisages enhancing structural to see increased investments in various transformation, addressing deep-rooted sectors of the economy. social and economic challenges, and The government plans to continue fiscal accelerating economic growth to at least consolidation to restrain the rising deficit 7% a year. By implementing the Big Four and stabilize public debt by enhancing strategy, Kenya hopes to reduce poverty, revenue, rationalizing expenditures create jobs and grow the economy. If the through zero base political environment remains stable, budgeting, and Kenya’s economy will for the first reducing the cost of time in a decade hit a six debt by diversifying per cent growth rate in funding sources. 2019. Inflation is projected to be The writer is the Director, Corporate Banking at KCB Bank Kenya

According to Africa Development Bank, real GDP is projected to grow 6% by 6% in 2019 and 6.1% in 2020

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INVESTMENTS Global hotel chains make a beeline for Kenya enya is witnessing an The Hotels Africa 2018 report shows other countries in the top 10 list. unprecedented boom Kenya has 68 global hotel brands, with According to the report, Nairobi, Dar in hotel construction South Africa leading with 430 hotels, es Salaam, Zanzibar and Seychelles are K which is guaranteed followed by Egypt (300), Morocco (153) leading in global hotel developments in to change the face and Tunisia (103). Mauritius, Nigeria, Eastern Africa. of the hospitality Tanzania, Zimbabwe and Algeria are the The increase in the development industry in the country. of new hotels and the refurbishment An increase in the number of of existing ones is an indication of business and leisure visitors, as well 68 the confidence that investors have in as the entry of global hotel chains into Number of global hotel Kenya’s economic growth. the country reinforces the hotel sector’s brands in Kenya Other big drivers of hotel untapped potential for business growth. development is Nairobi’s position

6 | TRENDS&INTEL

Best Western brands of hotels. A 2018-2022 outlook report by PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) projects that hotel room revenues will increase at a 9.6% compounded annual rate. Guest nights are projected to increase from an average of 3.6 million in 2018 to 4.6 million in 2022, and occupancy rates are expected to increase from 49.3% in 2018 to 58.1% in 2022. Jared Osoro, an economist and director of research and policy on financial markets and policy at the Kenya Bankers Association, says that meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions (MICE) offers potential for Jared Osoro product differentiation in the market Economist for international luxury hotel brands. He says for the country to reap benefits, differentiation of offerings and proper sequencing of corporate events is essential. “There is renewed momentum in the tourism and hotel industry which brings about competition. As such, hoteliers have to differentiate their services and focus on areas where they have a competitive advantage. Take KICC for example; it offers MICE facilities but does not have hotel accommodation,” explains Osoro. “Nairobi is vibrant in terms of MICE. Conferences often fill guest rooms and meeting spaces and whoever has well equipped conference centers and high-adaptation and consumption of as a commercial hub in East Africa, technology to supplement the growing stable local economy, varied tourism number of MICE facilities has a offerings, increased security, reliable competitive advantage,” he says. Nairobi is an important destination in infrastructure and reliable air Critical to maintaining the growth East Africa; it is well positioned and connections. momentum is the quality of supporting connected, hosting many international Andreas Flückiger, General Manager infrastructure. Whether business or organizations, corporations and NGOs - Mövenpick Hotel & Residences leisure-focused, every hotelier tries to Andreas Flückiger, GM Mövenpick Kenya Nairobi says: “Nairobi is an important distinguish themselves on the quality destination in East Africa; it is well of customer service. Something that positioned and connected, hosting Mövenpick’s Hotel GM Andreas many international organizations, Flückiger expresses confidence in. corporations and NGOs. Business “Customer service at Mövenpick travelers have an affinity for brands stands out because our staff are trained they recognise”. in offering excellent services. We have The hotel opened in Kenya in April an employee of the month award that 2018. Others international brands is selected from front of the house and that are looking to set up in Kenya in back of the house. Any employee who the next five years include Radisson, gets a special mention by a resident Marriot, Hyatt, Hilton, Sheraton and guest is rewarded,’’ says Flückiger.

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SPONSORSHIP Sports marketing comes of age Sports personalities are finding fortune in corporate endorsements, a trend that is gradually catching on in Kenya

hen athlete Eliud Kipchoge won gradually catching on in Kenya where companies the 2017 Berlin Marathon, he was use them to create awareness about their products appointed the Isuzu East Africa and services and consequently boost sales. brand ambassador for a year. Thanks to his exploits on the track, Kipchoge W Last year, when he broke his lands lucrative deals from local and international own record at the 2018 London companies. Marathon to become the greatest marathoner ever, According to Isuzu East Africa Managing Director Isuzu extended the partnership for another two Rita Kavashe, the partnership with the marathon years valued at KShs.20 million. record holder has helped boost the company’s sales. Like Kipchoge, sports personalities are finding “Eliud resonates particularly very well with key fortune in corporate endorsements, a trend that is attributes of our Isuzu brand. Through his world-

Value of partnership between Eliud KShs.20m Kipchoge and Isuzu East Africa 8 | TRENDS&INTEL class performance, he has demonstrated Tournament brand ambassador in a reported remarkable strength, resilience and KShs.25million deal. reliability in the races he has participated in Back in May, he was also appointed the and we honour him for that,” she says. DStv 2018 FIFA World Cup ambassador. “Eliud’s endorsement of the Isuzu brand His brother McDonald Mariga, another Popularity plays a huge role vehicle has boosted the brand visibility, football star, is currently the brand in sports marketing because awareness and our sales volumes have ambassador of betting firm Betin. companies want to associate increased. His discipline, focus and tenacity In March, footballer Denis Oliech was themselves with role models- to win aligns with our core values as a appointed as the brand ambassador of the Anthony Ahenda, Business company,” she said during a ceremony to betting firm Betway in a deal valued at Development Executive at mark the renewal of the partnership,” she KShs.10 million. Frontiers adds. Regionally, three time Olympic champion Sports marketing, like in Eliud’s case, is Tirunesh Dibaba was named the Ethiopian where companies use sports/sporting events Airlines brand ambassador in 2018. to promote their products and services. According to Ahenda, popularity plays Usually, with brand personalities who a huge role in sports marketing because capture the essence of their core business. companies want to associate themselves KCB Bank has a strong sponsorship with role models. presence in the Kenyan sporting scene. Ahenda, however, says this strategy in When KCB began using sports as a core sports marketing is yet to gain traction marketing activity, customers created a because the corporate sector still hasn’t fully connection that went beyond financial bought into it. And it has its reasons. jargon, tellers and ATMs. Sports sponsorship First, he says, there is lack of transparency has enabled the bank to offer an exciting when it comes to prudent use of finances in facet of itself to the public not only as a most sports federations and unions, a major financial provider but as a culturally tuned reason corporates shy away from sponsoring in company. or partnering with teams, athletes or The bank sponsors football team KCB FC, players. Secondly, corporates do not want to rugby team KCB RFC, KCB Volleyball, KCB give money which cannot be accounted for. Chess team and is the main title sponsors “If a company gives money to a union, for the KCB Karen Masters and motorsports they would like to see what their money which include both autocross and the Kenya is doing, they need transparency and National Rally Championship. accountability. That’s why sporting teams Antony Ahenda, a Business Development and federations struggle to get sponsorship,” Executive at Frontiers, a sport and he says. entertainment agency, says despite Another reason is because most Kenya’s prowess in track and field parents do not believe sports can games, sports marketing isn’t as be a career and even the school big in Kenya as it is in Europe. curriculum does not give sports a He says most companies priority. associate themselves with But, there are still opportunities football because of the huge for the sector to grow and one of number of fans the sport attracts. his recommendations is to package “SportPesa sponsors Gor Mahia. sporting teams and federations like They are also the main sponsor KPL in a way that seems attractive to of the Kenya Premier sponsors. League,” says Ahenda. Some of Frontiers clients Sports personalities include Kenya Golf Union, who have Kenya Premiere League, landed lucrative Athletics Kenya and the sponsorship deals Kenya Rugby Union. include football star They have also Victor Wanyama worked with the who previously Mater Heart Run acted as the Chapa Foundation. Dimba na Safaricom

World marathon record holder Eliud Kipchoge.

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Clearing the way for local car manufacturing New policy provides road map to rev up auto industry in Kenya

n 1985, Kenya made international of vehicles. We need to grow the local headlines when it became assemblies and manufacturers so that we the first country in East can generate jobs for our people,” said Peter I and Central Africa to Munya, Cabinet Secretary for Trade and manufacture automobiles Industry. entirely from its local capacity. The policy aims to scale-up exports of The Nyayo Motor Corporation, saw five automotive products to the East African prototypes of the Nyayo Pioneer Car flagged Community (EAC), Kenya’s largest export off to the full glare of the international market. media. At the same time, the government However, the project ground to a halt is looking to boost research and as the economics of local manufacturing development efforts in the automotive at the time made it difficult for the Nyayo sector for indigenous research, design and Pioneer Car to compete with second hand engineering of both automotive vehicles and imports ushered in by the liberalization of components. the economy in the structural adjustment This will boost industrial growth and job programme era that followed. creation along the value chain, translating to Today, Kenya is once again reviving its billions in revenue for local manufacturers industrial gears with a focus of making the and the economy. country a regional hub for the manufacture Data from the Kenya National Bureau of automobiles. of Statistics, (KNBS) indicates that Kenya’s This time the government and industry motor vehicle assembly industry recorded stakeholders are keen on learning from past an annual turnover of KShs.60 billion in mistakes which has informed the drafting of 2017. the National Automotive Policy published in The sub-sector employed over 12,000 January 2019. people - 3,000 directly in assembly plants, The Policy spells out specific interventions 3,690 people in downstream spin offs, and that will be undertaken by both the public 5,782 in support sectors. and private sectors to revive the sector. “The value accrued beyond vehicle The policy will also help boost local manufacturers and assemblers with manufacturing, which is one of the industries consuming KShs.13.5billion government’s big four agenda items that worth of locally produced materials and aims to boost the sector’s contribution to contributed annual tax revenues to a tune of the country’s GDP from the current 8 per KShs.8 billion. cent to 15 per cent by 2022. CS Munya says that apart from boosting “The policy is part of the larger plan to local production, the policy is also aimed boost industrialization in Kenya because at making vehicle ownership affordable we cannot continue to be net importers to Kenyans and reduce number of used

10 | TRENDS&INTEL

vehicles on Kenyan roads. (KEBS) has published revised standards This has informed the lowering of the A National Automotive Council for the assembly of bus panels that will be age limit for second hand car imports. will facilitate the acquisition enforced on firms manufacturing units for According to the National Automotive of component specifications to the bus rapid transit (BRT) system with Policy, the age limit on imported second facilitate investment readiness a focus on increasing safety and reducing hand passenger cars above 1600cc will be and production of given maintenance costs. cut from the current eight years to five components locally. “The National Automotive Council will years by June 2019 and down to three facilitate the acquisition of component years by 2021. specifications to facilitate investment A National Automotive Council will readiness and production of given be formed to implement the ambitious components locally,” reads the policy policy. document in part. “Joint ventures with “The government will make preferential global value chain players to produce purchase of locally assembled motor locally in Kenya will be explored at vehicles by ministries, departments and appropriate times.” agencies in the spirit of the Buy Kenya, The government will also offer Build Kenya strategy through enforcement incentives aimed at rewarding of the Public Procurement and Asset 12,000 incremental uptake, collaboration and Disposal Act 2015,” reads the policy utilisation of locally manufactured document in part. People employed in the sub-sector products that meet required standards Already, the Kenya Bureau of Standards, and specifications.

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ECONOMY enya’s tourism sector last The losses were attributed to year grew by more than cancellations as prospective tourists Tourism 30 per cent as the heeded the warning. number of visitor From early 2014 towards the end of 2016 K arrivals to the most hotels in the coast were operating country surpassed below 25 per cent occupancy with at least sector the two million mark. 20 of the most adversely affected shutting Behind the statistics unveiled by the down. government earlier this year is a story of Many people lost their jobs directly blooms resilience, recovery and growth of a sector while businesses that depended on that last year contributed KShs.157 billion the tourism economy such as product to the country’s GDP. suppliers, travel agencies and caterers were Kenya suffered sustained attacks by either forced to close or scale down their again al-Shabaab terrorists between 2011 and operations. 2015 with tourist arrivals plunging to 1.18 Today, Kenya’s tourism sector has According to the Tourism million from 1.8 million over the period. rebounded posting record growth rising ministry, the sector contributed In 2015, tourism stakeholders estimated on the back of political stability and KShs.157 billion to the economy travel advisories placed on Kenya by the investments by both the government and with both international and UK, US, France and Austria would punch private sector. domestic tourism registering a KShs.40 billion hole in the country’s This follows aggressive marketing by the impressive growth economy. government through the Kenya Tourism

12 | TRENDS&INTEL

Board, KTB to raise the profile of Kenya direct flights to New York’s JFK Airport as a destination for both leisure and from Nairobi. This is anticipated to drive conference tourism. up tourism numbers from the US, Kenya’s In the past five years, more than a dozen fourth-largest source market at the same hotels have opened their doors across the Today, Kenya’s tourism time strengthen JKIA as the regional hub country with others in several stages of sector has rebounded posting for East Africa. construction. record growth rising on the Even as stakeholders in the sector pop According to the Tourism ministry, back of political stability champagne at the turnaround the sector growth in numbers has also come from and investments by both the has undergone over the past five years, domestic tourism as Kenyans have heeded government and private sector. efforts continue in marketing Kenya as a to calls by the KTB through a campaign preferred destination for beach, safari and dubbed Tembea Kenya. conference tourism. In 2017, Kenyans accounted for more Policy makers, private sector investors than half (3.4 million) of the country’s six and bilateral partners are today in million hotel bed-nights making domestic agreement that acts of terrorism do not tourism the largest driver of growth in the necessarily point to a collapse in the sector. security apparatus and do not merit travel Last year, Kenya Airways launched advisories. 157 billion Contributed to the country’s GDP last year

The Mövenpick Hotel & Residences in Nairobi.

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STYLE We help polish your personal image Renowned image consultants say personal branding and image consultancy helps build a stylish and more confident version of you

14 | TRENDS&INTEL

here is an old adage because they have realized that that says “your first their employees are their brand impression is the ambassadors – especially where T last impression”. employees deal directly with the The saying holds clients and customers,” he says. true even today. First impressions are even more People are going to great lengths to vital in a digital world where people improve their appearance. read about you or see your photo Those who can afford it, before they get a chance to meet especially politicians, business you. A potential client will first see executives, sports persons and even your website (in case of a corporate) celebrities, hire the services of image or a potential employer will first consultants. see your LinkedIn profile photo and Image consultation goes These are professions who work make a judgement about you based beyond improving the on improving your appearance, and on that. outward appearance. train you in improving your verbal Bbanga says his clients largely It entails growing a and non-verbal communication. include telecommunication, wholesome individual Here in Kenya, Robert Burale and manufacturing, banking, media and image inside out Derek Bbanga are two renowned non-profit organisations. - Robert Burale image consultants. They work with Bbanga says while working with individuals and groups to improve clients, his mandate goes beyond their image, grooming, brand making a person fashionable to themselves, develop business and creating a style unique to that social etiquette and improve public individual. $1,000 speaking all in an effort to set them “If you’re fashionable, you keep up Average cost per hour for apart from the competition. with the trends. Fashion is all about corporate clients According to Burale, image the clothes and what is selling at the consultation goes beyond improving moment. However, style is all about the outward appearance or the kind you and your personality,” he adds. of clothes or shoes you wear. Image Bbanga and Burale concur that consultants do not work in changing individuals rarely take up their who you are but how you carry and services. present yourself, what you say and This being an emerging trend in how you say. the market, many people may not “It entails growing a wholesome value the need to spruce up their individual image inside out,” he says. image. But although the uptake of Image consulting is not limited to their service is low, it is growing. individuals. Bbanga says his clients However, their services don’t also include companies who are come cheap. According to Burale keen on boosting the image of their costs differ from one client to important asset - their staff. another depending on the need. “On “For a long time, companies the lower scale, cost for individual have concentrated on developing consultancy starts from $100 per employee’s technical skills and hour while corporate starts at would seldom address the soft $1,000 an hour,” Burale says. Employers are willing skills which are also critical to an Jay Danzie, a world renowned to invest more in their employee’s career advancement. public speaker famously quoted employees because they Nowadays, more and more that “Your smile is your logo, your have realized that their corporates are reaching out to us,” personality is your business card, employees are their brand says Bbanga. how you leave others feeling after ambassadors “Employers are willing to having an experience with you - Derek Bbanga invest more in their employees becomes your trademark.”

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16 | FEATURE

The hair and beauty industry in Kenya is big business, employing hundreds of people and contributing billions to the economy. Those in the industry say the future is colourful

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Making a fortune from the billion-dollar

business Euromonitor, an independent provider of market research, puts the value of the hair care industry in Kenya at KShs.12.7 billion in 2017

low median age, social media and an strong player in the Kenyan market. expanding middle class are driving Growth in the industry is driven by the the multi-billion hair industry expanding middle class and the increasing in Kenya, riding on influences influence of social media, which typically A from around the world means that the hairstyle Beyoncé wore at the and in the process creating Global Citizen concert in South Africa will opportunities for investors. soon be on the head of a young Kenyan girl. The industry’s potential caught the eye Euromonitor, an independent provider of of Indian multinational Godrej Consumer strategic market research, puts the value of the Products Limited earlier this decade and in hair care industry in Kenya at KShs.12.7 billion 2011, Godrej JCPL entered a joint venture with in 2017, growing at seven percent per year. the then owners of Darling Kenya. Some industry players say the actual figure In 2016, Godrej announced that they had could be KShs.2 billion higher. acquired 90 per cent of the Kenyan subsidiary Gaurav Kaushal, who oversees Godrej’s of Darling, which was started in Senegal in interests in Kenya, says that the country’s low 1979 and by the year 2000 had a Pan-African median age “influences trends drastically”. presence and was establishing itself as a “We are now dealing with millennials.

18 | FEATURE

They get interested very fast, they the mainstream companies are still have access to social media and they associated with relaxers and other change their preferences equally unnatural products. fast. They want new trends even “As a result, some customers faster than what earlier generations still pledge their support to small, wanted,” he says. independent companies who produce With earlier generations, a trend in products specifically for ethnic the United States would find its way hair. The rationale is despite the to Kenya after three or four years, but influence the bigger brands have, with the beauty influencers available these customers still perceive that a click away on Instagram, this takes the products they produce are not six months to a year. designed for women with ethnic “The life cycle of trends is hair,” Euromonitor says in their becoming very short,” he says. country report dated July 2018. Afrohair, or a natural look, has also For Paul Ng’ang’a, who owns become the norm. Alkhemy Brands Limited, makers of The black world sat up and listened the Mikalla range of hair products, when award-winning Nigerian author the potential lies in the fact that Chimamanda Adichie told American only about 60 per cent of Kenya’s magazine The Cut in December 2016, “I can say very excitedly now that I absolutely love my hair and I wouldn’t change it.” The author, who has inspired Beyoncé to the extent of being We are now dealing with quoted in her work, then described millennials. They are interested her struggles with keeping her hair very fast, they have access to in the best state possible, something social media and they change many African women can relate to, their preferences equally fast and which sparked one of the biggest - Gaurav Kaushal debates. For Darling, said Gaurav, the growing interest in keeping it natural is a huge trend. population uses cosmetics and other “Anything which is linked to afro products, meaning that the 40 per hair, natural hair, those styles are cent will need a product sometime in picking up fast,” he says. the future. He also says that businesses As the population has more and are creating more styling and more money at their disposal, the maintenance products, known in numbers will grow. the industry’s parlance as wet hair The reported growth of the products, to enable consumers keep a middle class is also another key natural look. factor for growth. Mainstream companies have a “More money is coming firm grip on the hair care market into people’s pockets. If in Kenya, with Haco Tiger Brands, you were only using L’Oreal East Africa and PZ Cussons body lotion you are the leaders. now using body While the big brands have product lotion and ranges formulated for ethnic hair, maybe lip >>>

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>>> gloss and lip stick,” says Paul. He says that with people who were 15 a decade ago now turning 25 and earning, that is a market that small manufacturers like him and big brands Paul Ng’ang’a Founder, Alkhemy Brands Limited like Darling will be fighting to get. Last year, Darling set up a unit whose community is also an influencer in are becoming more aware and more core job is to understand consumer Kenya,” says Gaurav. interested in products that are safe and trends and styles. They have so far spent That way, while the consumer might natural. They want to look good but want close to KShs.200 million on research like a style they saw Beyoncé wearing, to do it safely,” he says. and development. they will not take it if their hairdresser “It is the more sophisticated consumer The findings, says Gaurav, are pointing does not recommend it. who wants to be more natural,” says Paul. Godrej to the right direction. This is a sentiment shared by Paul of “This is important to us because For example, they realised that the Mikalla, who says his company listens to there is a direct correlation between Kenyan market is very experimental and the customer. naturalness and safety. As a that it is influenced by social media – the “The first thing that you must do is manufacturer, you need to figure out how customer’s presence, who they follow figure out what people are really looking to cater to such a consumer by providing and what they see there – but the stylists for,” he says. the product that they are looking for,” he make a big difference. Paul says Mikalla’s decision to make says. “I was in Kenyatta Market and met a the products they have now was partly While big manufacturers and the lady who travels 40 kilometres because informed by a trend towards safer and multinationals, who have a huge she will only get her hair done by the less toxic products. advertising budget can put up a billboard same stylist. Going back to the same “We believe in manufacturing products along a busy highway, small players have stylist is very important and the stylists’ that are good for mankind. Consumers social media, from where they can reach

20 | bvnjeieieureiFEATURE

Gaurav Kaushal Darling Kenya CEO

consumers without spending a lot of that when a woman who has come 40 money. kilometres to see their stylist asks for “This has created an opportunity for We believe in manufacturing what would work, they get the best small brands to fit into these spaces. products that are good for advice possible. Technology has helped the consumer find mankind. Consumers are Darling Kenya works with 27,000 more information on the products that becoming more aware and stylists to co-create on the basis of their they would like to purchase. This makes common interests. more interested in products consumers more empowered than they PZ Cussons also engages hairdressers were before. The customer can compare that are safe and natural. and stylists and, working with different products prices, ingredient lists They want to look good but 2jiajiri, the KCB Foundation’s youth and reviews,” says Paul. want to do it safely - Paul empowerment programme, trains them While the global trends and the Ng’ang’a - Alkhemy Brands at a salon at their headquarters in Baba influences from Hollywood will remain Dogo, the aim being to educate them dominant as long as we are in the about the appropriate use of products. digital age, both the multinationals With a fully functional salon at their and the small players are looking at 27,000 headquarters in Baba Dogo, Nairobi, PZ growing their market organically. Stylists who partner with Cussons regularly conducts seminars Stylists are the point of focus for this, Darling Kenya to train stylists on how to use the right with manufacturers keen on ensuring products for different hair types.

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company was launched with a full range of products from face, eye, lips and skin care products that were both of Booming high quality and affordable. Flame Tree Group acquired the business in 2016. Suzie Wokabi, the founder, says the brand was successful cosmetics because her company struck when the iron was hot. As the Chief Creative Officer, Suzie is responsible industry a for product development, launches into the market, public relations, marketing and sales. She worked in New York goldmine for from 2001 to 2007 before coming back home to start SuzieBeauty. “This was during the era of buy Kenya, build Kenya. I start-ups moved home specifically for Savvy this purpose. As an African he cosmetics SuzieBeauty, which launched woman who wanted to entrepreneurs industry in Kenya in 2011, is a pioneer in the make African products, I felt are riding the is experiencing Kenyan beauty industry. The African women would really social media T an explosive appreciate our product, and wave and growth. The they did. We have a loyal making a killing majority of this segment’s clientele and we are grateful,” in the KShs.6.6 consumers - women - are says Suzie, who has expertise billion industry on an exciting journey of in all form of make-up artistry. exploration, experimenting 2011 In this age of social media with new products. Year when Suzie Wokabi and ever changing consumer According to analysts, this launched SuzieBeauty, a preference, Suzie keeps herself growth is being fueled by cosmetics company. and the business current by among others, an expanding engaging consumers online. middle-class, social media “When I started Suzie influence and urbanization. Beauty I couldn’t afford to In 2014, according to import the materials and Euromonitor International, machines, so finding the the Kenyan Colour Cosmetics I wanted to be a vet right partners who got the industry was estimated to be or a translator for the specifications and my formulas worth KShs.5.4 billion and by United Nations. But right was important. But in 10 last year, 2018, was projected after graduating, I years I’m hopeful I can fully to grow up to KShs.6.6 billion. went into the fashion manufacture in Kenya,” she Although the market is scene where I worked says. crowded, local entrepreneurs Interestingly, Suzie says that in many facets of the are building profitable she never planned to be an businesses by manufacturing fashion industry” entrepreneur. products that cater to different - Suzie Wokabi “I wanted to be a vet or needs and preferences. a translator for the United

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Nations. But after graduating, has made it much easier for I went into the fashion scene people to start, and grow a where I worked in many facets cosmetics business. of the fashion industry. That’s Joanna was already a how I was able to identify the renowned YouTuber before gap in our local cosmetics she launched her ‘Aspire sector and it’s been an exciting Collection’ on December 1st journey,” she says. 2018, with four matte lipsticks With almost a decade’s and one eyeshadow palette. worth of experience as an The entrepreneur, who quit entrepreneur, Suzie is passing her job to vlog on beauty and down knowledge by mentoring makeup, says her decision others in the cosmetic to launch a makeup line was business. So far she has influenced by three things. worked with Nelly Tuikong, One, the fact that there founder of Pauline Cosmetics are very few Kenyan makeup and Joanna Kinuthia of brands. Two, she was confident Joanna K Cosmetics. she would influence people to “Two months ago, we had an use her products because she event where we collaborated already had a following on with Joanna and she drew YouTube. a huge crowd. We will keep Lastly, she wanted to inspire collaborating where it makes other people to follow their sense. This is all about dreams, to dare do things that building the African beauty scare them. industry,” she says. Since launching the The market dynamics have collection two months ago, she changed since has had over 300 customers, Suzie started her >>> business. The Suzie Wokabi, prevalence of founder of internet and SuzieBeauty, a social local cosmetics media, company.

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>>> some of whom have bought the entire collection, and others more than one product in the line. The red lipstick, ‘Unapologetic’ is the best-selling item so far. “Customers are buying because they want to support a local brand. But unfortunately there are those who still believe that foreign products are better or superior. We can change that mindset by aggressively marketing local products,” she says. It has been an exciting journey for Joanna, who conceived the idea for the collection last year in January, began working on it in February and launched it in December. She says she has learnt valuable business lessons.

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>>>

“Initially, I made poor financial decisions, I spent on things I didn’t need to that didn’t bring returns and I overestimated how many followers would translate to customers,” she says. She has two employees. “I focus on the overall vision of the company so that I’m constantly consuming content that will help grow the company,” she adds. Nelly Tuikong, the founder of Pauline Cosmetics, is one of her mentors who she looks up to. “Nelly is amazing. She guided me with useful information. She didn’t see me as competitor,” she says. She is full of praise for Suzie of SuzieBeauty. “Suzie Wokabi is bold. She started this business (in Kenya) when there was no one else in the market, and she began with a full range of products”.

As an African woman who wanted to make African products, I felt African women would appreciate our products, and they did. We have a loyal clientele” - Suzie Wokabi

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enya is at the threshold of growth in is a market that is awash with a range of soaps, lotions, personal care, with the increased deodorants, roll-ons, body mist, body washes and aspirations that come with the digital colognes. K savviness of a youthful population, “Worldwide, as the GDP of a country is growing, the and the growing middle class giving categories of personal care will start evolving. Kenya industry players a reason to look to the future with is at the threshold of personal care growth for the optimism. simple reason that as affluence grows, personal care Companies have in turn invested millions in grows, with more and more specialised products for the research to find out what their customers want and in consumers’ needs,” Sekar Ramamoothy, the managing developing products to meet that demand. The result director at PZ Cussons, said in an interview.

Increased discretionary spending, a youthful population and internet penetration is fueling demand for products by people who want to try new looks Chasing the billions in burgeoning beauty industry

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That growth, according to Euromonitor out new products that are cost effective and give them International, has been fuelled by a “stable, well- value for money, says Euromonitor. connected middle class with increasing disposable Still, the independent provider of strategic income.” market research says, the Kenyan consumer trusts A report by the company dated July 2018 puts international brands more than local ones. the value of sales in the beauty and personal care The market is thus in the grip of multinationals, at KShs.58 billion, with growth expected to surpass with L’Oreal East Africa Ltd, Haco Industries, Unilever Ksh85 billion by 2022, providing opportunities for Kenya Ltd, Colgate-Palmolive, PZ Cussons East Africa, investors. Beiersdorf East Africa Ltd and GlaxoSmithkline East The growing middle class is also interested in trying Africa Ltd leading respectively in individual market share. They will maintain their hold on the market over the next five years, says Euromonitor, because they are affordable and are well known and trusted because of their heavy investments in advertising. There is a greater “However, as smaller manufacturers scale need for people up, develop sales strategies and establish wanting to look efficient distribution networks, they are good, feel good likely to give the multinationals a run for and get more out their money,” Euromonitor says. of life and that is Pawan Kumar, who heads the Beauty what is driving and Personal Care segment at Unilever, the growth of attributes the willingness to try out new beauty and products to the youthful population and personal care increased internet penetration. - Pewan heads the Beauty and Social media Personal Care This population wants to look good, segment at and they can see from the internet good Unilever examples of people they would want to emulate. “There is a greater need for people wanting to look good, feel good and get more out of life and that is what is driving the growth of beauty and personal care,” said Pawan. Kenya is in a great place, he said. “Youth form the bulk of the population and as the world is opening up and people are getting to know what is happening around the world because of the internet, the need for getting confidence and grooming there is growing,” said Pawan. Steve Maina, the Finance Director at Haco Industries, sees it as the influence of millennials, who are willing to spend anything to look and feel good. “Their lives are about ‘me and how I feel’,” said Steve. The man at the helm of one of the biggest players has also seen growth from devolution, which has resulted in increased spending power at the counties, which receive more than KShs.300 billion from the national government annually. Unlike the districts that >>>

Steve Maina Finance Director, Haco Industries

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>>> preceded them, there is now more money in the counties, which employs more than 12,800 people. The counties have also contributed fuelled urbanisation, resulting in an increase in the number of people with an interest in grooming themselves, with the resultant increase in the consumption of personal and beauty care products. The billions that Kenyans are willing to use money on their personal care and beauty have resulted in a very competitive environment for the industry players. “To gain a percentage point in market share takes a lot of work,” said Steve. A serious manufacturer constantly has their eye on the market, relying on insights from companies like Euromonitor and Nielsen as well as their own investments. They need to understand consumer trends, how they buy and when and try to extrapolate against global trends. “We try to integrate what is happening across the world with what is needed in this market and develop market- appropriate products,” says Sekar.

Social media For Unilever, said Pawan, they are focused on offering aspirational products at an affordable price, an area in which they see customers developing an interest. They also seek to tap into the digital savviness of the youth. “Reaching the youth demographic through digital platforms is essential. Your typical youth doesn’t watch TV,” said Pawan. For Haco, they are constantly in Estimated value of the conversation with their distributors to beauty and personal know which products are in demand, KShs.58 billion care industry in Kenya combining that with data from Nielsen. It also demands that the marketing team sometimes create a buzz on social counterfeit premium products, which are There has been emphasis on media and monitor conversations, a threat to consumer health. collaboration from manufacturers, as using the same to get feedback on their The industry players, however, take they help identify counterfeiters and products. comfort from the renewed enthusiasm are crucial in court cases as they are the The industry has not been spared by from stakeholders to fight counterfeits, complainants. counterfeiters, says Euromonitor, as with a multi-agency taskforce headed by “Organisations have to work with due to pressure from an aspirational the Kenya Revenue Authority cracking the government and regulatory bodies,” middle class, there has been a surge in down hard on counterfeiters. said Pawan, adding, “Ultimately it’s

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about having products that can’t be counterfeited.” For Sekar, who oversees the Reaching production, distribution and sale of the youth the 90 products PZ Cussons makes demographic at the factory at Baba Dogo, personal through digital care comes down to two things: platforms is improved health and hygiene. He sums it up thus: “If you use a essential. Your proper moisturising lotion, your skin typical youth is moisturised well and it improves doesn’t watch your overall energy level and health. television - Personal care is not necessarily just Pawan nice to have: it is a must-have for better health.”

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TREND When a haircut is not enough There is a new breed of men that are not afraid to look good. They are not content with a regular haircut and are willing to pay a premium to be pampered

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or the modern Kenyan be a lot if you take the kind of dynamics man, long gone are the we expect in the economy. It’s going to days when getting a grow a lot more,” he added. F haircut meant going It is a view shared across the industry, to the barbershop with Pawan Kumar, who heads the to get a simple shave and have some Hair, Beauty and Personal Care side searing spirit applied on the scalp to at Unilever Kenya pointing out: “Men soothe the burn. were always a laggard when it came to Today, a visit to the grooming but that is changing very fast barbershop is one long and men’s grooming is becoming big.” dance, and the shave is Over time, men have become only the first step. conscious of how they take care of After the barber themselves, and there are now trends is done, the seat is around beards and mustaches and the spun around and products that are used to style and make the man is pointed them look neat. in the direction of a It has lent momentum to companies shampoo sink, where an like Mandevu, which sells products for attendant, almost always a conditioning, moisturising and styling woman, is ready to wash his head and beards. then follow up with a massage. “The biggest factor for us is self- Over the next one hour, that man consciousness,” said Pawan, “That if you will likely use at least five products Men were always a laggard look good you can get self-confidence to as he goes through a head massage, a when it came to grooming tackle the day.” facial scrub, a pedicure and a manicure, but that is changing very Internet penetration has helped such emerging from the barbershop looking fast and men’s grooming notions grow, with male fashion icons and smelling different. such as David Beckham and Idris Elba The demands of male grooming have is becoming big - Pawan leading men to embrace the idea that it increased over the last two decades and Kumar, head of Hair, Beauty is essential to look stylish. the modern Kenyan man now requires and Personal Care, Unilever At Unilever, said Pawan, they noticed more than just treatment for dandruff. that a lot of the men’s products are used Euromonitor International, an by women as well, because they have independent provider of strategic a stronger fragrance and a stronger market research, put the value of sales KShs.4.7b impact as most have a cooling effect on in the men’s grooming side of the beauty the skin. Value of sales in the men’s and personal care sector at KShs.4.7 As the male grooming category in grooming side of beauty and billion in 2018. Kenya grows, more industry players are personal care sector in 2018 Steve Maina, the Finance Director getting interested. Gaurav Kaushal, who and acting Managing Director at Haco heads Darling Kenya, told Venture that Industries, forecasts growth in the men’s it is an area they are looking at. segment of the beauty and personal care He estimates the male segment of “Globally, we have seen a huge trend industry as one of the main components the beauty category at about 35 per on male grooming purely on account of the entire category’s future. cent of the current business, with the of, ‘How do I shave better?’ for example. “At the moment, that segment is same factors influencing growth – the Male grooming globally is growing. It is only strong in lotions but as we move growing middle class, exposure because the same in Africa,” he said. on, we’ll find a lot more products that of increased internet penetration and a “We are keen to understand this men will want, especially soaps and youthful population. category better and see if we want to perfumes,” said Steve. “In terms of the potential, it’s going to have a play there,” he added.

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PARTNERSHIP The making of a strong Kenyan brand For the last 24 years, Terry Mungai, proprietor of Ashleys Kenya, has nurtured her company and helped rewrite the grooming rule book

hen Terry Mungai took out a bank loan to buy a hair salon in 1994, she did not W know how much that decision would change her life. Just two months later, Diners International – her employer - closed down, leaving her jobless and with a KShs.800,000 loan. Interest rates at the time were averaging 30 per cent. Anyone could be forgiven for calling it quits at that point but not Ms Mungai. She took the challenge head-on and ventured fully into the hair and beauty business. It helped that her mother came from a business background. Her first task was to identify her

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niche market – upper and middle-class executives and men in particular who until then weren’t catered for by most hair and beauty outlets. “I was in the corporate world and we sought grooming services every week but the salons and parlours were not anything to write home about. Grooming is supposed to be relaxing and that’s what I wanted to provide. My target was career professionals. We provided them with the full pampering experience.” Once she identified her target market, she realised the location of the salon she had purchased would not serve her clients well and so she decided to sell it and buy another one at Kenwood House on Kimathi Street. She named the salon Ashleys after her last-born daughter. She faced numerous challenges in getting her business off the ground. She says convincing men to pay for grooming services, at a premium, took a lot of effort. “At that time, good barbershops were non-existent. Men wanted the quickest haircut possible because it was not comfortable. When I was in employment, my male colleagues would park their cars outside Hilton Hotel, remove their ties and walk downtown to River Road to get haircuts,” she says, adding that it When I was in employment, my was unheard of for men to get pedicures, 800,000 male colleagues would park manicures or even a head massage. Loan that the Ashley’s proprietor “In those days, if you told men to do their cars outside Hilton Hotel, took out in 1994. She used the manicures, they thought it was all about remove their ties and walk money to set up her first salon in polishing the nails. So we had to educate downtown to River Road to get the city centre and tell them applying nail polish is haircuts - Ms Mungai actually the icing on the cake, and that a manicure is therapeutic because it removes dead skin and increases blood Ms Mungai had clearly tapped into were poached by other salons. I became circulation. Once they tried out our a growing industry with data from frustrated when I realised that Ashleys services, they never turned back. We have Euromonitor International indicating had become a training ground for our clients whom we started with 24 years that sales of hair care products grew from competition,” she recalls. ago.” KShs.5 billion in 2003 to KShs.12.7 billion She decided that if she was going to The business grew slowly because cash in 2017. The industry is projected to grow keep training people, she may as well get flow was a challenge. At one point, she to KShs.14.2 billion in 2022. paid to do it and that was how Ashleys even had to sell her car to keep the salon Like with any other business, hers was Hair and Beauty Academy was born in afloat. She persevered and as they say the not bereft of challenges. She kept losing 2003. The school which started with five rest is history. Today, the business, which trained staff to competition. students was located in Kenwood House, has since been renamed Ashleys Coiffure “We used to handpick students from the the same location as her first salon. and Spa, has 13 beauty centres in total, 10 few beauty schools that were available, The school became popular and to in Nairobi, one in Mombasa and two in retrain them for free and then hire date has trained 15,000 students. It Nakuru. them. Once they gained experience, they has an average intake of one thousand >>>

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>>> students annually who enroll for two Our goal is transformation. We run our Men too, she says, have embraced main courses – beauty therapy and hair. schools as Christian based so students the courses. “It is almost a guaranteed Each course takes seven months and costs not only get training but also get spiritual success for a man because it is a technical KShs.120,000. nourishment. Parents have come to thank job and men are very good with their “I learnt from experience that me not because of the jobs that we have hands. The majority of the people who professionalism is key and we wanted given their sons or daughters but because do grooming are women and they prefer to do it the right way, so we enrolled of their transformation in character. male beauticians and hairstylists.” with City and Guilds International, an Without character, you cannot succeed in As if running two businesses with examining body for cosmetology,” she whatever position you get,” she says. over 400 employees is not enough of a says. The academy has since opened She has seen a shift in attitudes over challenge, Ms Mungai still finds time to branches in Buru Buru, Ruaka and in the last decade, people no longer perceive organise annual beauty pageants as a Miss Nakuru. hairdressing and cosmetology as a course World Kenya franchise holder. Ms Mungai, a wife and mother of for people who fail to get into university. In 2018, she shifted gears again, this four children, says the academy is her “Ashleys is now the first pick for many time embracing franchising as her new pride and joy and gives her even more students, some of whom opt not to go expansion model. Until then, she used satisfaction than the beauty centres. to university despite meeting the entry bank loans to finance new branches. “The academy is not just a business; criteria because they have seen people She says that this route is fraught with it is a mission to improve the lives of the earn good money from hairdressing and challenges because she constantly worries youth by turning them into entrepreneurs. beauty,” she says. about loan repayment and paying rent.

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“The main appeal of franchising is that it will allow the Ashleys brand to grow without us necessarily investing our money. It will also accelerate our growth,” It is almost a guaranteed she says. success for a man because Ms Mungai will use two types of it is a technical job and men franchising models going forward. The first is direct franchising such as that used are very good with their by established brands like KFC, for anyone hands. The majority of the who meets their qualification criteria. The people who do grooming are second aims to create a subsidised brand women and they prefer male with the typical Ashleys services offered beauticians and hairstylists at a lower price to attract new segments of the market. This model dubbed ‘Ashleys Mashinani’ is the result of a partnership between Ashleys Kenya Limited and KCB 3 Foundation. Number of Ashley’s branded KCB Foundation offers scholarships as salons that are set to be opened part of its 2Jiajiri programme, which aims under the Ashleys Mashinani. to create jobs for youth in the informal sector. The KShs.50 billion programme an experienced Ashleys manager. Those spread over five years will train youth in interested in entrepreneurship will other sectors, not just hair and beauty. eventually branch out and start their In the last two years, 203 students have own salons with funding from KCB won full scholarships to train at Ashleys Foundation. The company will open 10 Hair and Beauty Academy. Each of these additional Mashinani franchises in 2019. graduates are guaranteed jobs in the An Ashleys hair products line is also Ashleys Mashinani franchise outlets. in the works starting with shampoo, Ashleys is one of the leading Small and conditioner and treatment, the fastest Medium Enterprises that KCB Foundation moving products in the industry. This has identified for piloting the franchise will exploit the natural hair trend, which model, leveraging on its established brand has exploded worldwide, the idea being to pull the youth into the burgeoning to create products tailored for African beauty industry in Kenya. The co- women. “When customers like a product ownership model enables Ashleys to bring that you use in the salon, they want to in the influence of its tried and tested purchase it to use at home.” enterprise management systems, supply Although a local brand, Haco Tiger chains and existing client base. Brands controls 37.4 per cent of the The decision to explore the franchise Kenyan market for hair care products, model was based on feedback from 2jiajiri the top brand, Dark and Lovely (14.8 per beneficiaries, who cited inadequate cent is by French cosmetics multinational capacity to manage salons as one of L’Oreal, which also owns the fourth their major challenges. Whereas the placed brand, Nice and Lovely (10.3 beneficiaries can provide services to the per cent), a Kenyan brand that the customers they struggle in developing multinational purchased in 2013. In business plans, salon operations, second place is Haco’s Miadi (13.8 per acquisition of supplies, staff and client cent), followed by Motions (11.5 per cent), management. This is because salon a US brand. An-other foreign brand, management is not part of the hair and Venus (9.4 per cent), by PZ Cussons, beauty curriculum. rounds up the top five. To keep up with Ashleys Mashinani will kick off with trends in the industry, Ms Mungai travels three branches in Karen, Ngong Road two to three times a year, usually to and Kiambu Road, each employing 10 Dubai, the US and China where Ashleys 2jiajiri Ashleys alumni working under sources most of its products.

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t feels faintly “Does the way I wear awkward to be my hair make me a better Lessons discussing the person?....I am not my I importance of hair” are lyrics from India something as Aries’ hit song, ‘I am Not personal as hair. But perhaps it my hair’. Although the piece from Muli shouldn’t, because the subject was originally written for of hair has always been a women who had lost their touchy one, particularly among hair to cancer, the message Musyoka, the women. However, hair, or the is applicable to everyone. lack of it, is also a big issue for Because it attacks the way men. society ideally views beauty. When men start to bald, Hair restoration is a fairly most of them will cut the new practice in Kenya. Before remaining hair and accept the Muli Musyoka started Hairhub new look that comes with it. Trichology clinic four years For women, they will turn to ago, people who suffered wigs. from hair loss would see a dermatologist. Hair restoration treatment hair gained popularity after footballers and movie stars like Wayne Rooney, Mel Gibson, Matthew McConaughey, and David Beckham got hair transplants. “The average human head has about 100,000 hair follicles, each follicle grows loss about 20 individual hairs in a person’s lifetime. On average, doctor hair loss is around 100 strands a day but when you start to lose more than that, there’s need to seek medical help. However, if the hair follicles get destroyed or damaged, then it leads to permanent hair loss,” Muli. Trichology is about the health of hair and scalp and Muli is the first trichologist in Sub Saharan Africa. He trained in the diagnoses and treatment of hair loss at the International Association of Trichologists in Australia. Muli says that when he got into this field, he recognized that there was absence of information on hair care and hair loss particularly when with Afro-ethnic (African) hair.

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Causes of Hair Loss:

Genetics: Pregnancy: This is the most common cause of hair Some women experience extensive hair loss in both men and women (more than loss when pregnant or after child birth. This 90 per cent of cases). usually grows back with time.

Health problems: Compulsive behavior: If you have a severe illness, hormonal imbalance Children (and sometimes, adults) may get into (especially related to the thyroid), secondary syphilis, the unfortunate behaviour of compulsively “When anaemia or an autoimmune problem (a condition pulling out their scalp hair and even eyebrows had a 95 where your immunity attacks the body), you may and eyelashes (a condition known as we experience some hair loss. This usually resolves once trichotillomania). per cent started, your health problem has been treated. success we didn’t rate,” says have many Muli. clients Medication: Beyond the because there Diet: Drugs used to treat cancer, gout, growth of hair, was a lot of If you are on an extreme diet which prevents you depression and some birth control pills the trichologist can contribute to loss of hair. scepticism on from getting sufficient protein and micronutrients defines success as the concept of hair (vitamins and minerals), you are likely to seeing his patient’s experience some degree of hair loss. restoration but over level of happiness, time our client base has Poor hair styling techniques: self-confidence and grown significantly,” says This primarily affects women whose self-love increased. hairdressers pull tightly at their hair Muli. Skin conditions: According to a report by when braiding, weaving or styling Creation of new hairlines is Psoriasis and fungal infections Euro monitor, the increased it. The hair loss is primarily in the such as ringworm can lead to keenness in personal well- also a common trend for both front and also affects women who patchy hair loss. men and women. Of all the like holding their hair consistently in being, physical appearance patients that Muli sees at his ponytails. and the growing consciousness clinic, 70 per cent are women. regarding hair loss has “We offer two forms of technique referred highly dependent on substantially propelled hair treatment Platelet Rich to as Follicular Unit area of hair loss, and transplant market growth. Plasma(PRP) where a small Extraction. each session takes 5 Last year, in Kenya, the volume of blood and used on “The procedure to 8 hours to complete. dermatologicals sales value thinning areas on the scalp involves harvesting hair Cost of treatment ranges rose by 5 per cent reaching and adult stem cells which are follicles from the donor between KShs.150,000 and KShs.3 billion. harvested as fat grafts from the area - the back and/or sides KShs.400,000 depending on “About 45% of our business tummy and then used on the of the scalp, where the hair the extent of hair loss and how is from referrals from our thinning area. Both treatment is resistant to hormonal many treatments a patient patients. As a result of options utilize naturally and genetic changes in the needs. the growing demand for occurring growth factors and body. The follicles are then “When the FUE procedure transplant procedures and stem cells which are found in transplanted to the thinning or was introduced in Australia related therapies, the market the blood and the fat,” he says. balding areas (recipient area). in 2000, experts said that it has great potential for growth,” The clinic performs hair A patient would need around would not work on African Muli says. transplant procedures 1,000 to 4,000 hair follicles hair because of the curl pattern using the latest innovative on average with the number of our hair root. But we have

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ake-up artiste, Willy Collins Mbogo makes a living out of making women look M and feel beautiful. Collins, or Willy Collins as he is popularly referred to on social media, spends hours in his clients’ homes and other locations priming, contouring, buffing and preening to achieve what the beauty industry calls #beatface or simply, perfectly done make-up. His job includes creating illusions like high cheekbones with make-up palettes, all the while blending creams and powders to create flawless and high definition looks that he and his clients will later post on their social media pages. According to Willy It’s a competitive Collins, who has been industry and in the beauty industry some people for five years, the sector are now willing is no longer niche and to do more for elitist thanks to social less. Some will media platforms like take as little YouTube, Instagram as KShs.2,000 and Twitter which have which is Beauty widened the marketplace unfortunate to anyone with access to because they internet. are not factoring There are thousands in operational of make-up tutorials costs - Collins on-demand: uploaded on YouTube and Instagram by both amateurs and professionals, which means the number of make-up artistes Stylists who keeps growing and consequently, their services are readily accessible. “To be a make-up artiste today, all you need is social media for exposure, learn how to take good photos and use bring glam to Photoshop because people will judge you by how attractive your photos are,” he says. With this growing need, consumers your home need not look far for the services of make-up artistes. Some like Collins, will come right to your doorstep for whichever occasion his clients need to be dolled up for. From bridal showers, baby bump shoots, personal branding, dinners or just a fun night out.

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It is then no wonder that it has become a from KShs.1,800 to KShs.2,100, setting competitive industry with make-up artistes spray KShs.2,600, mascara KShs.1,000 to (MUAs) fighting for a piece of the glittery KShs.2,400 and the various eye, lip and pie. And to stand out, Collins says one has face brushes range between KShs.1,900 and to stand out in terms of service delivery. KShs.5,300. For a full face of make-up, Collins Locally made brands are much more charges KShs.5,000. The cost varies affordable. For example, Suzie Beauty depending on the location. For instance, he brushes range between KShs.400 and has travelled to Singapore and Malaysia, KShs.1,900. and Diani and Chale Island locally with Over the course of his five-year career, Connie Aluoch is a fashion stylist and clients. On occasions he is flown to Collins has built business relations and image trainer. destination shoots which tend to last an lasting friendships that have seen him entire day, and for that he will charge become a confidant to some of his clients. Aluoch, an international tutor at KShs.20,000 and the client caters for the Istituto Marangoni Milan, is sharing air fare. her expertise and experience in Kenya “It’s a competitive industry and some at Strathmore Business School, training people are now willing to do more for KShs5,000 Women in Leadership on personal less. Some will take as little as KShs.2,000 Amount charged for a full face branding, image and grooming. which is unfortunate because they are not make-up The award winning fashion stylist has factoring in operational costs,” he says. been styling KTN news anchors since To build a reputable brand, Collins says 2013. one needs to invest in quality products and “I’m like a fake therapist; clients Aluoch says more people now, not only accessories. confide in me about their new romances, celebrities, are employing the services of “Depending on the brand of make-up pregnancies and even divorces. Others call fashion stylists because fashion is more you want in your kit, for example Estee me when they just need someone to talk to, than just clothes. It’s about how you feel, Lauder or MAC, you need a minimum and not necessarily do their make-up, but it’s reflective of who a person is and what capital of between KShs.30,000 to they still pay me,” he reveals. they stand for. KShs.50,000,” he says. “It’s important to One of the ways Collins gets new and But Aluoch also knows the value of invest in quality products. For example, return clients, he says, is by word of mouth, social media to a big brand like hers. MAC lipstick can last you a year while the and this is because in his experience, She has employed three social media foundation and powder can go up to a year people buy or use what they have heard managers in her company, Connie Aluoch and a half,” he says. someone else use. Styling Management. On the MAC Cosmetics website, products Just like with make-up, people are also She has 20,000 Instagram followers, like an eye shadow palette costs between seeking services of professional stylists. a possible sign that indeed social media KShs.1,900 and KShs.6, 500, foundation One of the big names in this profession is plays a unique role in demystifying and between KShs.1,000 and KShs.3,900, Connie Aluoch, a fashion stylist and image making the styling world more inclusive lipsticks depending on the type range trainer. and accessible to all.

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Peeling back years with a nip and tuck Among the most common surgeries are liposuction, tummy tuck, butt augmentation and procedures such as botox

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n the past five years, many more Cosmetic surgery is elective, that is subject to Kenyans—men and women alike— choice by the patient or doctor and is planned have been seeking procedures to in advance. Costs range from KShs.450,000 (for I shape and mould their bodies. liposuction) to over KShs.800,000 (for complex Dr Tilman Stasch a consulting body shaping operations). plastic, reconstructive, aesthetic and hand People seek cosmetic surgeries for a myriad of surgeon based in Nairobi says given that reasons. They can range from someone’s desire most of these surgeries are now performed to change awkward features because they have in Kenya, they are becoming been bullied which affects their more affordable and also more self-esteem. Some women seek accepted in society. to have their breasts enlarged to Top on the list of the surgical be more feminine. Or a mother procedures are liposuction KSh450,000 who, after raising her children, (a non-invasive surgical Average cost of can set aside money for a procedure to remove fat from getting a liposuction tummy tuck and breast lift. specific areas of the body) Dr Stasch says he at times and tummy tuck and breast turns away patients for a variety lift and reduction, breast of reasons. augmentation (either with “I don’t agree with fat or silicone implants), butt Medical procedures patients who want to change augmentation and even male their looks to solve broken can go wrong if not breast reduction. relationship problems, or who The most common non- performed correctly want to look like celebrities surgical cosmetic procedures and by a skilled or want operations that are include botox (to reduce the professional. I disproportionate. In these wrinkles, frown lines, grooves encourage patients cases, I ask them to reconsider in the forehead and skin to verify their or to seek help from other bands present in the neck) and doctor’s credentials sources. A person’s physical Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) before signing up for and mental health is always the for anti-aging which uses a any surgery top priority,” says Dr Stasch of patient’s blood platelets to - Dr Stasch Valentis Clinic. stimulate new cell growth, Advances in the technology helping to improve your have made most surgeries less complexion, skin texture and invasive (non-surgical) which to restore lost facial volume. reduces hospital stay and Interestingly, nearly 85 per recovery time. cent of Dr Stasch’s patients Risks and complications form are female but men too are part of any surgical procedure increasingly going under such as infections and in severe the scalpel for liposuction, cases there can be bleeding surgeries to make scars less which can be fatal. visible, eyelid lift surgery, “Medical procedures can reduction of loose skin after go wrong if not performed weight-loss (bariatric) surgery correctly and by a skilled or after losing weight through professional. I encourage exercise. patients to verify their doctor’s While cosmetic surgery deals with the credentials before signing up for any surgery,” he improvement of shape and form, in terms warns. of aesthetics, reconstructive surgery is a set Cosmetic surgery is performed at Kenyatta of operations that aim to restore form and National Hospital, Valentis Clinic that is run by function following severe injuries, tumours, Dr Stasch; The Karen Hospital, Nairobi Hospital, burns, birth defects or treat conditions such as Aga Khan, and Apple + Sense Clinic in Nairobi back or knee pain. among others.

>>>

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>>> Whether it is to enhance beauty, rectify an abnormality or enhance one’s appearance, cosmetic surgery is becoming a popular trend in Kenya. Here are some of the most common procedures Key

Fillers These are injections which contains collagen and other substances that are used to enhance looks. The injections reduce wrinkles and make the face smoother and plump.

Face Lift It is a cosmetic procedure which stiffens the wrinkles and the flabby skin on the face that come with age or loss in weight.

Cheek Augmentation Botox It is a cosmetic procedure that is done to highlight a Botox injections are used in cosmetic procedures person’s cheek. The surgeon puts up a solid implant to reduce wrinkles, frown lines, grooves on the on the cheek bone usually made up of silicone. In forehead and skin bands on the neck. some instances, the person’s own fat or other filler injections are also used.

Tattoo removal Nose job (Rhinoplasty) In this procedure, the surgeon removes the small sized Rhinoplasty is a surgical procedure which corrects the tattoos using a scalpel. nose size and shape.

Breast reduction Neck lift It is a cosmetic surgery that is done to remove This procedure is done to eliminate excess fat and surplus fat, tissues and skin to make proper size of skin on the neck region. It is a set of procedures the breast. It relieves the discomfort caused due to performed to enhance the look of the neck. large breasts.

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Hair Transplant This is a treatment for person who has scanty hair (baldness) . The surgeon takes hair from the area which is abundant and then transplants it to the thin or no hair region. It is done as a day care procedure and the patient can go back to routine work within two to five days.

Mini-Tummy Tuck It is considered as a less persistent procedure than the abdominoplasty and targets the skin between the belly and pelvic bone. It mainly constricts the muscles on the lower abdomen. The procedure is a minor one and taKShs. about two hours.

Reconstructive surgery Palm/Axillary Hyperhidrosis This surgical procedure is done to reinstate the function of the body (sweating) parts. The plastic surgeons use this concept to manage serious It is a condition in which there is over sweating in palms, wounds by doing skin grafts, expanding the skin and flaps. Cosmetic armpits and soles. It is a treatable condition and there surgeons use this concept in enhancement of breast, breast reduction are several methods in treating them such as injecting and lifting, face and forehead lift, surgery for upper and lower eyelid, botulinum toxin and surgery. chemical peeling, reshaping of nose and skin resurfacing using laser.

Hand surgery Trauma reconstructive surgery In this procedure the disorders This surgery is performed in patients who have related to hands, wrist, elbows and facial and cranio-facial abnormalities, extremity shoulders are corrected. injuries and intricate wounds.

Cleft Lip and Palate repair surgery Breast reconstruction surgery The cleft lip and palate is the birth defect which is formed during This surgical procedure is done to recreate the breast pregnancy. This defect can be found only when the child is born. mass that is similar with the remaining part of the Surgery can be performed to correct this defect and is done breast. It is usually done as a follow up surgery when the child is about one year old. The surgeon will spruce mainly after mastectomy. the tissues and the lips are stitched. In some instances the nose also needs to be corrected. The child needs to stay at the hospital for about 5 days and recuperate within four weeks.

Source: The Karen Hospital Cosmetic Surgery

| 43 ES TO V C I A S I L T PURSUITS P Off the beaten path; Travel gems in Africa

he holiday season is over and social media is awash with photos Kenya of tourists relaxing in the usual tourist hot spots. These range from the beach, game parks, theme parks, malls and such. Not Mt. Suswa that there’s anything wrong with tourist hot spots—they’re It’s the least visited of the two major usually popular for a reason. craters at the heart of the Rift valley. Sitting at the border of Narok THowever, there is a certain rush that comes with finding experiences that and Kajiado counties, the double are more authentic or undiscovered by the majority of travelers. This year, rimmed crater is a beauty to behold. aim to explore some of the lesser known tourist destinations for a unique It will amaze you with views of other features in the rift; Mt. Longonot travel experience. These spots might take you off the beaten road, but you’re in west, Kijabe and the larger sure to find something unique and unforgettable. Kikuyu Escarpment in the East and Ngong Hills in the South East. We’ve even put together a list of the best hidden gems that await you. The 21km trail around the crater is both a charm and a challenge. If you are camping, include a visit to the ‘baboon parliament’ at the caves, which offers an assembly of primates at dawn and before night falls; this is a spectacle you have not seen before.

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Kenya Chyulu Hills- Kibwezi Chyulu Hills is a mountain range in Makueni County. Stretching over a hundred kilometres, this range gives you endless hiking possibilities. From the hills, the views of the larger Kibwezi County including the rugged Mbui Nzau and leafy Mzima springs are thrilling. If you Kenya are looking to take a break from the hustle Loita Hills - Narok and bustle of city life, then try Chyulu. If you plan to visit, do so in November or early Whether starting in Entasopia for an unforgettable outdoors prepare to indulge in the forest, December when it is Nguruman Escarpment in experience. is a view of Lake Magadi and lush green. Kajiado and ending in Morijo From the floor of the Lake Natron at the border of in Narok county or the other escarpment, the green hills have Kenya and Tanzania. Further in way round the hills are just this magnetic pull and from the the horizon is Ol donyo Lengai an perfect for anyone looking rim of the escarpment as you active volcano also in Tanzania.

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Kenya Kasigau Hills - Taita Taveta

The coast has very few high points and one them is Kasigau. She is too beautiful to be ignored. She pokes the skies in the horizon with courage and if you are an avid hiker, her call will be irresistible. At the foot of the beautiful hills with magical indigenous forest is a self-catering camp. The views of the expansive Taita plains at the top the hills after six hours of hiking are picturesque.

Kenya Mugi Triangle - Chogoria

Mugi Triangle is simply picturesque. Nithi Falls is one of the main attractions on this trail. A walk down the falls is steep but the thunder from the falls make it worthwhile. Another trail leads to Lake Ellis, one of Mt. Kenya’s moorland lake. Camping at the edge of the lake gives you an opportunity to watch as the sun flirts with waters in the early morning and late in the evening. A hike up Mugi Hill offers excellent views of the main peaks of Mt. Kenya.

Zambia Victoria Falls

The Victoria Falls, or as locally known, ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ which translates to ‘The Smoke that Thunders’, is one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World. The waterfall is situated on the Zambezi River at the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. The roar of the water crashing down the gorge, covered with the fine mist rising to the sky is surreal. An even better view of the falls can be seen from a light aircraft which gives you unique aerial view of the falls and the surrounding environment. The fall change dramatically with seasons, from April to November the water levels drop. The best view during this time is from the Zimbabwe border or the devils pool. From mid-November, the rainy season, the water levels rise. For the adrenaline junkies, there is the ‘Big Air Experience’ a combination of zip lining, gorge swinging and bungee jumping. If you’re looking for the ultimate adrenaline rush, this is it! A 110-metre fall and swing will awaken all your senses!

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Democratic Republic of Congo Mount Nyiragongo

Mt Nyiragongo in the Virunga National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site. The spectacle in the Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo is billed as one of the most thrilling yet dangerous volcanic mountains in the world. Nyiragongo is an active volcano that has erupted about 35 times since 1882. It has the largest and most accessible lava lake on Earth. The hike up Mt Nyiragongo starts at 1,984 metres (6,510 feet) and ends at 3,470 metres (11,385 feet), which is about 8 kilometers of a very steep climb. However, the hike is split into five sections hence you get to rest along the way. Just before darkness falls, at the top of a very cold mountain rim, the clouds open to the enormous crater with the lava lake bubbling at the center, the most spectacular view the mountain offers.

Greece Dinner in the sky Dining in this revolving restaurant that is suspended in the air in the city of Athens presents an extraordinary culinary experience. Guests get to lap up the breathtaking views from 50 metres above the streets while enjoying exquisite flavors. From the birds eye view, you get views of the city lit up at night including the illuminated Acropolis (an ancient citadel which contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historic significance). To hear it in their own words; “Dinner in the Sky ‘takes you to heaven’, while the nightlife of Athens “awakens”. As the table rotates slowly, guests also get to see surrounding mountains, the sea and of course, the Athenian cityscape.” Words and pictures do not do justice to the experience, you need to pay a visit.

Tell us about an exotic destination you have visited in Africa. Contact: [email protected]

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HEALTH 2019: It’s time to get fit

etting fit or losing weight Members can also explore the option of or conditioning. The exercises mimic are among the most kick-boxing classes. everyday life movements. For example, a common New Year The main goal of these training pull-up helps you build strength to be able G resolutions and programmes is to build strength and to climb a fence, while a push-up sets you that usually means condition the body through extremely to push a strong obstacle away,” says Alvin getting a gym subscription and then varied and challenging workouts the trainer at Alpha Fit. looking to stick to the routine. without relying on machines. Exercise Sedentary lifestyles, where people The traditional gym, with its rows of incorporates gymnastics, running, weight spend hours seated at desks in addition machines – treadmills, cross-trainers lifting and weight training. to spending time stuck in traffic, have led and bicycles – along with weights and “Each day the workout will test a health professionals to advocate for more pulley machines, can get boring and different part of your functional strength deliberate physical training. intimidating. “More and more people are willing to At a low building on Ngong Road that work out. This is probably because of looks more like a warehouse than a gym, increased awareness about the importance Alvin Lee Anyumba takes members of of keeping fit, as well as pressure from Alpha Fit Gym through routines that Going to the gym shouldn’t stop social media to look a certain way. People aim to accomplish the same aims as the you from meeting your other now want to live longer, healthier lives,” traditional gym. necessities, we wanted to make it a says Alvin, who has been a fitness coach Alpha Fit Gym is one of the new- part of someone’s lifestyle for the last 10 years. generation gyms where the focus is Even as these functional gyms compete on functional, often short-interval with the regular gyms for clients, Duncan high-intensity workouts using tyres, Wanjohi and his wife Vinita are providing sledge hammers, chains and ropes and KShs.3,500 an alternative that allows clients who are kettlebells instead of machines. Monthly membership familiar enough with the routines and charges at SmartGyms. machines to work out without assistance. Clients are issued with smart cards that they use to access the gyms, which are appropriately named SmartGyms. The establishments are equipped with state-of-the-art cardio machines. The gyms are cheaper than the functional type at KShs.3,500 per month compared to as much as KShs.7,000. The budget-friendly gym is attracting huge numbers, thanks to its affordable membership and the couple is happy with this trend as their objective is to bring fitness to the masses. “Going to the gym shouldn’t stop you from meeting your other necessities. We wanted to make it a part of someone’s lifestyle,” says Vinita. Alvin, the trainer at Alpha Fit, predicts an increase in the number of certified fitness trainers and the establishment of more boutique gyms by these trainers in 2019. Whatever fitness exercise you choose; this year you have no excuse not to get fit.

48 | | 49 Perfectly in tune with your lifestyle

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