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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. completed this edition without him. Each of OUR READERS our trips to Jordan has felt like a treasured Many thanks to the travellers who used homecoming: heartfelt thanks to all those who the last edition and wrote to us with helped us. helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Paul Clammer Anders Pilgaard, Andrea Pape-Christiansen, In Amman, big thanks to Susan Andrew Anette Nybom, Arlo Werkhoven, Bastien and Soda (the occasionally borrowed, mad, Poirier, Chris Banoub, Elli & Wilfried Koerbl, one-eyed kitty), Steve Catling and Sandra Frédérique Hélion, Isabel Jordan, Jobin Tahir Wells. Thanks also to Luma Qadoumi of Laurie, Jonathan Skinner, Joseph Stanik, Judy BeAmman, and Daniel Robards of Engaging Gage, Kathryn Ward, Lukas Pavek, Maarten Culture Travel. For the sneak preview of the Oskam, Melanie Cannon, Nick Thorne, Nilesh Royal Botanic Gardens, thanks to Habiba Ding- Korgaokar, Sabine Gerull, Sara Atkinson, wall and Ryan Guillou. Finally, thanks and love Schmitt Klaus, Seth Almekinder, Tim Laslavic, to Robyn, whose idea it was to go to Jordan in Tony Smith, Torben Retboll, Velko Miloev, Vera the first place. Chiodi, Wancy Lam, William Fitzhugh ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AUTHOR THANKS Climate map data adopted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Jenny Walker World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Re-engaging with the people of Jordan is al- Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ways a great pleasure. Guidebooks are a team Sciences, 11, 1633-44. effort: big thanks to Helen Elfer, and of course to Paul Clammer, fellow author on this project. Illustration pp162-3 by Michael Weldon Thanks are also due to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, for his unlimited patience during Cover photograph: The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), research and write up. As usual, I couldn’t have Petra, Jordan; Danita Delimont Stock/AWL 342 Destination Editor Assisting Editors Bruce THIS BOOK Helen Elfer Evans, Kate Evans, Kate This 9th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editor James, Christopher Pitts, Ross Planet’s Jordan guidebook Lorna Parkes Taylor, Simon Williamson was researched and written Product Editor Cover Researcher by Jenny Walker and Paul Kate Mathews Naomi Parker Clammer. The previous edition Senior Cartographer Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, was also written by Jenny David Kemp Samantha Forge, Andi Jones, Walker. This guidebook was Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, produced by the following: Book Designer Clara Monitto Martine Power, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 343 Index 4WD trips 216-17 sights 45-54 architecture Tell al-Kharrar 274 tourist information 68 language 340 Umm Qais (Gadara) 96-9, tours 55-6 Ottoman 102 274, 97, 14 A bicycle travel, see cycling Abdullah, King 262, 263, travel seasons 42 Umayyad 245, 260 264, 267 travel to/from 68-71 area codes 315 birds 293 Abila (Quwayliba) 94 travel within 71 Ariha 141 bird-watching accommodation 306-8, see walking tour 50-1 51 Ar-Rabba 141 Azraq Oasis 235-6 also individual locations Anfaishiyya Inscriptions 215 art galleries, see museums books 296 activities 21-3, 308, see animals 293, see also & galleries Black September 265 also bird-watching, Arabian oryx, birds arts 65, see also calligraphy, boat travel 323 diving, hiking, Aqaba 40, 193, 195-207, crafts, mosaics, weaving boat trips 199-200 horse-riding, rock 196-7 ATMs 313 books 248, 250, 278 climbing, snorkelling, Aqaba Fort 198-9 Ayla 197 wildlife-watching birdwatching 296 Aquarium 205 Ayoun Musa 272 ’Ain Musa 272 crafts 284 Arab Spring 268, 302 Azraq 40, 227, 232-4 air travel 319-20, 324 culture 278 Arabian oryx 236 Azraq Oasis 235-6 Ajloun 87-8 flora 293 Arabic 16, 333-7 Azraq Wetland Reserve 236 Ajloun Forest Reserve 88-91 health 329 arak 291 Alameleh Inscriptions 215 hiking 311 Archaeological Park II Al-Beidha 190 B history 251, 260, 267 (Burnt Palace) 127 alcohol 291 bargaining 286 Petra 188 archaeological sites Alexander the Great 254, Barrah Canyon 216 rock climbing 311 Al-Beidha 190 255, 257 Basilica Terrace 97 Seven Pillars of Wisdom Bethany-Beyond-the- Al-Habis 168 baths, see hammams 209, 210, 213-15, 234, Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 250, 262 Al-Hasany Dunes 215 Baths (Umm Qais) 97 103-5 wildlife 296 Al-Himma (Mukheiba) 96 bathrooms 316 Dana 150 border crossings 320-3 alphabet 336 beaches 199 Herodus (Zara) Spring 114 budget 17 Al-Wu’ira 190-1 Bedouin culture 138, 188 Humaiyma 225 Burckhardt, Jean Louis 171, Bedouin people 20, 191, 223, Amman 38, 42-71, 43, 46-7, Jerash 9, 77-86, 78, 9 261, 262 , , , 224, 275-8 52 59 73 26 Khirbet Feynan 150 Burdah Rock Bridge 215 accommodation 42, 56-8 beer 291 Khirbet Tannour Temple bus travel 324 activities 54 Beit Arar 92 146 business hours 17, 313-14 children 56 Madaba 126-8 Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5 climate 42 Mar Elias 87-8 biblical sites 12, 272-4, 273 courses 54 Pella (Taqabat Fahl) C ’Ain Musa 272 calligraphy 65, 89 drinking & nightlife 62-4 99-101, 99 Ayoun Musa 272 camel races 54 emergencies 67 Petra 9, 40, 155-92, 156, Bethany-Beyond-the- camel trekking 217-18, entertainment 64-5 160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3 Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 308, food 42, 58-62 Tell Hesban 136 22 103-5 canyoning 130 highlights 43 Umm al-Jimal 242-4, 243 Dead Sea 272 car travel 324-6 internet access 67-8 Umm Qais (Gadara) 97-8, Jebel Haroun 272 Cardo Maximus 83 medical services 68 274, 97, 14 Jebel Umm al-Biyara 272 castles 10, 18, see shopping 65-74 Wadi Jadid 137 Lot’s Cave 119, 273 also desert castles archaeology 269-71 Mt Nebo 134-6, 274, 12 Al-Wu’ira 190-1 fieldwork 270-1, 308 Map Pages 000 Mukawir (Machaerus) Castle of Herod the internet resources 270 Photo Pages 000 137-9, 274, 15 Great 138 museums 270 344 castles continued Salt 102 diving 12, 29-35, 31, 12, 32 football 65 Karak Castle 143-4, 11 Wadi Musa 187 Aqaba 199, 205 Forbidden Love 279 Qala’at Ar-Rabad credit cards 313 costs 33 Forum (Amman) 49 (Ajloun Castle) 87 cruises 199-200 diving sites 35 Forum (Jerash) 80 Qatrana 226 Crusades, the 141-2, 258, internet resources 33 frescoes 238, 239 Shobak Castle 153 259, 261, see also Red Sea 12, 29-35, , Fuheis 74 31 12 INDEX castles Tafila 147 responsible diving 30 culture 275-80 cathedrals, see churches & safety 33-4 cathedrals currency 16 G south coast 207-8 galleries, see museums & C-H caves customs regulations 309 Djinn Blocks 159 galleries Cave of Seven Sleepers cycling 308, 324 dolmens 137, 252, 15 gardens, see parks & (Ahl al-Kahf) 73 Amman 55 drinking & nightlife, see gardens Iraq al-Amir 72 Dana Biosphere Reserve individual locations gay travellers 311 Lot’s Cave 119, 273 150 drinks 290-1 geography 292-6 Cedar Pride 35, 32 driving, see car travel Great Temple 167 cell phones 16, 315 D Gulf War 267-8 children, travel with Dana Biosphere Reserve 36-7, 56 147-52, 13 E Eastern Desert Highway Christianity 259-60 Dana Museum 148 H 40, 227, 241-6 Hadrian’s Arch 79-80 churches & cathedrals dangers, see safety economy 248 Hallabat 230-1 Cathedral (Jerash) 84 Dar As Saraya ecotourism 298-300 Church of SS Lot & Museum 91-2 Hammam as-Sarah 230-3 Eid al-Adha 23 Procopius 136 Darat al-Funun 50 Hammamat Ma’in 116-17 Eid al-Fitr 22 Church of St Cosmos & Dead Sea 10, 109-13, 272, hammams 18-19, 308, see St Damianus 82 electricity 309 10, 22 also hot springs Church of St Stephen Dead Sea Highway 39, embassies 309-10 Amman 55 139-40 106-20, 107 embroidery 284 Aqaba 201 Church of the Dead Sea Museum 115 emergencies 17 Hammamat Ma’in 116 Apostles 128 Dead Sea Panoramic entertainment, see Wadi Hasa 146-7 Moses Memorial Complex 115-16 individual locations Wadi Musa 179 Church 134-5 Dead Sea Ultra environment 292-6 health 328-32 Petra Church 168 Marathon 21 environmental issues 110, books 329 Shrine of the Beheading 235, 297-8 Decapolis 82 insurance 328 of John the Baptist etiquette 250, 275, 289 (Latin Church) 128 Decumanus Maximus 97 vaccinations 328-9 events, see festivals & St George’s Church 126-7 desert castles 231, 240, websites 329 see also castles events Churchill, Winston 242, 264 Hejaz Railway 54, 263 Qasr al-Azraq 234-6, exchange rates 17 cinemas 64-5 19 hepatitis 330 Qasr al-Hallabat Citadel 45-8 Herod the Great 255 Fort 230 climate 16, 21-3, 309, see F Herodus (Zara) Spring 114 Qasr al-Mushatta 240-2 also individual regions Faisal 263, 264 High Place of Sacrifice 161 Qasr al-Tuba 245 coffee 290-1 fauna 19-20, 211 hiking 13, 20, 308, 310-11 Qasr Aseikhin 245 Colonnaded Street 166 ferry travel 323 Ajloun Forest Reserve 90 Qasr Burqu 245-6 consulates 309-10 festivals & events 21-3 Azraq Oasis 236 Qasr Deir al-Kahf 244 copperware
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