Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341

Behind the Scenes

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completed this edition without him. Each of OUR READERS our trips to Jordan has felt like a treasured Many thanks to the travellers who used homecoming: heartfelt thanks to all those who the last edition and wrote to us with helped us. helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Paul Clammer Anders Pilgaard, Andrea Pape-Christiansen, In Amman, big thanks to Susan Andrew Anette Nybom, Arlo Werkhoven, Bastien and Soda (the occasionally borrowed, mad, Poirier, Chris Banoub, Elli & Wilfried Koerbl, one-eyed kitty), Steve Catling and Sandra Frédérique Hélion, Isabel Jordan, Jobin Tahir Wells. Thanks also to Luma Qadoumi of Laurie, Jonathan Skinner, Joseph Stanik, Judy BeAmman, and Daniel Robards of Engaging Gage, Kathryn Ward, Lukas Pavek, Maarten Culture Travel. For the sneak preview of the Oskam, Melanie Cannon, Nick Thorne, Nilesh Royal Botanic Gardens, thanks to Habiba Ding- Korgaokar, Sabine Gerull, Sara Atkinson, wall and Ryan Guillou. Finally, thanks and love Schmitt Klaus, Seth Almekinder, Tim Laslavic, to Robyn, whose idea it was to go to Jordan in Tony Smith, Torben Retboll, Velko Miloev, Vera the first place. Chiodi, Wancy Lam, William Fitzhugh ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AUTHOR THANKS Climate map data adopted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Jenny Walker World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Re-engaging with the people of Jordan is al- Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ways a great pleasure. Guidebooks are a team Sciences, 11, 1633-44. effort: big thanks to Helen Elfer, and of course to Paul Clammer, fellow author on this project. Illustration pp162-3 by Michael Weldon Thanks are also due to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, for his unlimited patience during Cover photograph: The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), research and write up. As usual, I couldn’t have Petra, Jordan; Danita Delimont Stock/AWL 342

Destination Editor Assisting Editors Bruce THIS BOOK Helen Elfer Evans, Kate Evans, Kate This 9th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editor James, Christopher Pitts, Ross Planet’s Jordan guidebook Lorna Parkes Taylor, Simon Williamson was researched and written Product Editor Cover Researcher by Jenny Walker and Paul Kate Mathews Naomi Parker Clammer. The previous edition Senior Cartographer Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, was also written by Jenny David Kemp Samantha Forge, Andi Jones, Walker. This guidebook was Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, produced by the following: Book Designer Clara Monitto Martine Power, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 343

Index

4WD trips 216-17 sights 45-54 architecture Tell al-Kharrar 274 tourist information 68 language 340 Umm Qais (Gadara) 96-9, tours 55-6 Ottoman 102 274, 97, 14 A bicycle travel, see cycling Abdullah, King 262, 263, travel seasons 42 Umayyad 245, 260 264, 267 travel to/from 68-71 area codes 315 birds 293 Abila (Quwayliba) 94 travel within 71 Ariha 141 bird-watching accommodation 306-8, see walking tour 50-1 51 Ar-Rabba 141 Azraq Oasis 235-6 also individual locations Anfaishiyya Inscriptions 215 art galleries, see museums books 296 activities 21-3, 308, see animals 293, see also & galleries Black September 265 also bird-watching, Arabian oryx, birds arts 65, see also calligraphy, boat travel 323 diving, hiking, Aqaba 40, 193, 195-207, crafts, mosaics, weaving boat trips 199-200 horse-riding, rock 196-7 ATMs 313 books 248, 250, 278 climbing, snorkelling, Aqaba Fort 198-9 Ayla 197 wildlife-watching birdwatching 296 Aquarium 205 Ayoun Musa 272 ’Ain Musa 272 crafts 284 Arab Spring 268, 302 Azraq 40, 227, 232-4 air travel 319-20, 324 culture 278 Arabian oryx 236 Azraq Oasis 235-6 Ajloun 87-8 flora 293 Arabic 16, 333-7 Azraq Wetland Reserve 236 Ajloun Forest Reserve 88-91 health 329 arak 291 Alameleh Inscriptions 215 hiking 311 Archaeological Park II Al-Beidha 190 B history 251, 260, 267 (Burnt Palace) 127 alcohol 291 bargaining 286 Petra 188 archaeological sites Alexander the Great 254, Barrah Canyon 216 rock climbing 311 Al-Beidha 190 255, 257 Basilica Terrace 97 Seven Pillars of Wisdom Bethany-Beyond-the- Al-Habis 168 baths, see hammams 209, 210, 213-15, 234, Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 250, 262 Al-Hasany Dunes 215 Baths (Umm Qais) 97 103-5 wildlife 296 Al-Himma (Mukheiba) 96 bathrooms 316 Dana 150 border crossings 320-3 alphabet 336 beaches 199 Herodus (Zara) Spring 114 budget 17 Al-Wu’ira 190-1 Bedouin culture 138, 188 Humaiyma 225 Burckhardt, Jean Louis 171, Bedouin people 20, 191, 223, Amman 38, 42-71, 43, 46-7, Jerash 9, 77-86, 78, 9 261, 262 , , , 224, 275-8 52 59 73 26 Khirbet Feynan 150 Burdah Rock Bridge 215 accommodation 42, 56-8 beer 291 Khirbet Tannour Temple bus travel 324 activities 54 Beit Arar 92 146 business hours 17, 313-14 children 56 Madaba 126-8 Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5 climate 42 Mar Elias 87-8 biblical sites 12, 272-4, 273 courses 54 Pella (Taqabat Fahl) C ’Ain Musa 272 calligraphy 65, 89 drinking & nightlife 62-4 99-101, 99 Ayoun Musa 272 camel races 54 emergencies 67 Petra 9, 40, 155-92, 156, Bethany-Beyond-the- camel trekking 217-18, entertainment 64-5 160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3 Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 308, food 42, 58-62 Tell Hesban 136 22 103-5 canyoning 130 highlights 43 Umm al-Jimal 242-4, 243 Dead Sea 272 car travel 324-6 internet access 67-8 Umm Qais (Gadara) 97-8, Jebel Haroun 272 Cardo Maximus 83 medical services 68 274, 97, 14 Jebel Umm al-Biyara 272 castles 10, 18, see shopping 65-74 Wadi Jadid 137 Lot’s Cave 119, 273 also desert castles archaeology 269-71 Mt Nebo 134-6, 274, 12 Al-Wu’ira 190-1 fieldwork 270-1, 308 Map Pages 000 Mukawir (Machaerus) Castle of Herod the internet resources 270 Photo Pages 000 137-9, 274, 15 Great 138 museums 270 344 castles continued Salt 102 diving 12, 29-35, 31, 12, 32 football 65 Karak Castle 143-4, 11 Wadi Musa 187 Aqaba 199, 205 Forbidden Love 279 Qala’at Ar-Rabad credit cards 313 costs 33 Forum (Amman) 49 (Ajloun Castle) 87 cruises 199-200 diving sites 35 Forum (Jerash) 80 Qatrana 226 Crusades, the 141-2, 258, internet resources 33 frescoes 238, 239 Shobak Castle 153 259, 261, see also Red Sea 12, 29-35, 31, 12 Fuheis 74

INDEX INDEX castles Tafila 147 responsible diving 30 culture 275-80 cathedrals, see churches & safety 33-4 cathedrals currency 16 G south coast 207-8 galleries, see museums &

C-H caves customs regulations 309 Djinn Blocks 159 galleries Cave of Seven Sleepers cycling 308, 324

& dolmens 137, 252, 15 gardens, see parks (Ahl al-Kahf) 73 Amman 55 drinking & nightlife, see gardens Iraq al-Amir 72 Dana Biosphere Reserve individual locations gay travellers 311 Lot’s Cave 119, 273 150 drinks 290-1 geography 292-6 Cedar Pride 35, 32 driving, see car travel Great Temple 167 cell phones 16, 315 D Gulf War 267-8 children, travel with Dana Biosphere Reserve 36-7, 56 147-52, 13 E Eastern Desert Highway Christianity 259-60 Dana Museum 148 H 40, 227, 241-6 Hadrian’s Arch 79-80 churches & cathedrals dangers, see safety economy 248 Hallabat 230-1 Cathedral (Jerash) 84 Dar As Saraya ecotourism 298-300 Church of SS Lot & Museum 91-2 Hammam as-Sarah 230-3 Eid al-Adha 23 Procopius 136 Darat al-Funun 50 Hammamat Ma’in 116-17 Eid al-Fitr 22 Church of St Cosmos & Dead Sea 10, 109-13, 272, hammams 18-19, 308, see St Damianus 82 electricity 309 10, 22 also hot springs Church of St Stephen Dead Sea Highway 39, embassies 309-10 Amman 55 139-40 106-20, 107 embroidery 284 Aqaba 201 Church of the Dead Sea Museum 115 emergencies 17 Hammamat Ma’in 116 Apostles 128 Dead Sea Panoramic entertainment, see Wadi Hasa 146-7 Moses Memorial Complex 115-16 individual locations Wadi Musa 179 Church 134-5 Dead Sea Ultra environment 292-6 health 328-32 Petra Church 168 Marathon 21 environmental issues 110, books 329 Shrine of the Beheading 235, 297-8 Decapolis 82 insurance 328 of John the Baptist etiquette 250, 275, 289 (Latin Church) 128 Decumanus Maximus 97 vaccinations 328-9 events, see festivals & St George’s Church 126-7 desert castles 231, 240, websites 329 see also castles events Churchill, Winston 242, 264 Hejaz Railway 54, 263 Qasr al-Azraq 234-6, exchange rates 17 cinemas 64-5 19 hepatitis 330 Qasr al-Hallabat Citadel 45-8 Herod the Great 255 Fort 230 climate 16, 21-3, 309, see F Herodus (Zara) Spring 114 Qasr al-Mushatta 240-2 also individual regions Faisal 263, 264 High Place of Sacrifice 161 Qasr al-Tuba 245 coffee 290-1 fauna 19-20, 211 hiking 13, 20, 308, 310-11 Qasr Aseikhin 245 Colonnaded Street 166 ferry travel 323 Ajloun Forest Reserve 90 Qasr Burqu 245-6 consulates 309-10 festivals & events 21-3 Azraq Oasis 236 Qasr Deir al-Kahf 244 copperware 285 Amman 56 Dana Biosphere Reserve Qasr Kharana 239-40 coral 208 Dead Sea Ultra 148-50 Qasr Mushash 245 Marathon 21 costs 307, 312 Dibeen Forest Reserve Qasr ’Uweinid 237 Jerash 85 courses 86-7 Jerash Festival 22 cooking 54, 179, 291 Qusayr Amra 238, 13 Hammamat Ma’in 117 Jordan Running language 54, 312 Umm al-Jimal 242-4 Mujib Biosphere Reserve Adventure Race 23 117-18 crafts 20, 284-7 Desert Highway 40, 193, 225-6 films 248 Mukawir (Machaerus) Amman 65-7 Dhiban 141 Five Pillars of Islam 283 138 Iraq al-Amir 72 diarrhoea 330, 331 flora 19-20, 211, 293 Petra 170-6 Madaba 132 Dibeen Forest food 288-90, 310-11, 26 Shobak 153 Mukawir (Machaerus) Reserve 86-7 Siq al-Barid (Little 138, 139 Bedouin 288-9 digital photography 314 cooking courses 54, Petra) 191 disabilities, travellers 179, 291 Wadi ash-Shu’aib with 316 customs 289 102-3 Map Pages 000 discount cards 315 Ramadan 290 Wadi Rum 218-19 Photo Pages 000 Diseh 224-5 vegetarian travellers 290 Hippodrome 80 345 history 251-68 Petra 158 Lawrence’s House Umm ar-Rasas 139-40 Arab nationalism 262-4 Wadi Rum 211 (Al-Qsair) 215 Moses’ Spring (Ayoun archaeology 269-71 Seven Pillars of Wisdom Musa) 136 biblical sites 272-4 209, 210, 213-15, 234, Moses’ Spring (Wadi J 250, 262 books 251, 260, 267 Musa) 185 Jebel Haroun 272 legal matters 312 mosques Christianity 259-60 Jebel Rum 213

lesbian travellers 311 INDEX Crusades, the 261 Abu Darwish Mosque 54 Jebel Umm al-Biyara 272 Lisan Peninsula 119 early settlements 252-4 Al-Husseiny Mosque 49 Jebel Umm al-Ishrin 213 literature, see books holy wars 261 Jerash 81-2, 84 Jerash 9, 77-86, 78, 9 Little Petra 190-2 Iraq relations 267-8 King Abdullah Mosque H-M accommodation 75, Lot’s Cave 119, 273 50-3 Islam 260, 282 Lowest Point on Earth Mamluk mosque 100 84-5 Israel & the Palestinian climate 75 Museum 119 Territories 264-7 Mamluk Palace & food 75, 85 Mosque 144 King’s Highway 256 highlights 76 Ottoman mosque 98 Nabataean people tourist information 86 M 257-8 Ma’an 225-6 motorcycle travel 324-6 travel seasons 75 Ottoman Empire 260, Madaba 39, 121, 123-34, Mt Nebo 134-6, 274, 12 travel to/from 86 261-2 124 mud bathing 111 Romans 82, 256, 257, travel within 86 accommodation 121, Mujib Biosphere Reserve 258-9 Jerash Festival 22 128-31 117-19, 14 Umayyad dynasty 232, jewellery 285-7 drinking 131-2 Mukawir (Machaerus) 258, 260 John the Baptist 256 food 121, 131-2 137-9 hitching 326 Jordan Museum 45 highlights 122 museums HIV 330 Jordan National Gallery of shopping 132 Al-Habis Museum 168 holidays 314-15 Fine Arts 53-4 sights 126-8 Aqaba Museum 199 holy wars 261 Jordan Natural History travel to/from 133-4 Beit Arar 92 Museum 91 horse-riding 308 travel within 134 Dana Museum 148 Petra 176 Jordan Running Adventure Dar As Saraya Museum Race 23 walking tour 129, 129 Wadi Rum 218 91-2 Jordan Valley 39, 75, Madaba Archaeological hot-air ballooning 219 Park I & Virgin Mary Darat al-Funun 50 94-105, 76 hot springs 18-19, 308, see Church 127 Dead Sea Museum 115 also hammams Madaba Museum 128 Duke’s Diwan 49-50 Al-Himma K Mafraq 241 Folklore Museum 49 (Mukheiba) 96 Karak 141-6, 142 magazines 315 Jordan Museum 45 Hammamat Afra 147 Karak Castle 143-4 maps 312 Jordan National Gallery Hammamat Kastron Mefaa 140 Mar Elias 87-8 of Fine Arts 53-4 Burbita 146-7 keffiyah 276 markets 66 Jordan Natural History Hammamat Ma’in 116-17 Museum 91 Khazali Siq 215 measures 315 Herodus (Zara) La Storia Tourism Khirbet Feynan 150 medical services 329-30 Spring 114 Complex 135 Khirbet Tannour 146-7 Mesha Stele 140 House of Mary the Lowest Point on Earth Khirbet Tannour Temple Egyptian 104 mobile phones 16, 315 Museum 119 146 Humaiyma 225 Monastery (Al-Deir) 169-70 Madaba Museum 128 Khouri, Norma 279 Hussein, King 264, 265, money 16, 17, 312-13 Military Museum 54 King Abdullah 262, 263, 266, 267 mosaics 284-5, 11 264, 267 Museum of Archaeology Archaeological Park II & Anthropology 91 King Abdullah Mosque (Burnt Palace) 127 50-3 Museum of Popular I Church of SS Lot & Traditions 49 immigration 319 King Hussein 264, 265, Procopius 136 Museum (Jerash) 84 insurance 311-12, 325-6 266, 267 Church of the Museum (Umm Qais) 98 internet access 312 King’s Highway 15, 39, 121, Apostles 128 Nabataean Museum 168 internet resources 17 256, 15 King’s Highway Royal Automobile archaeology 270 Portrait 135 Museum 54 health 329 L Madaba Archaeological Salt Archaeological Iraq al-Amir 72 language 333-7 Park I & Virgin Mary Museum 102 Church 127 Irbid 39, 75, 91-4, 76, 92 alphabet 336 Shrine of the Beheading Madaba Institute for Islam 260, 281-3 courses 54, 312 of John the Baptist Mosaic Art & (Latin Church) 128 holidays 314-15 emergencies 335 Restoration (MIMAR) Vaulted Gallery 80 Israel 255 Lawrence of Arabia 132, 248 127 Visitor Centre Museum itineraries 24-8, 24, 25, Lawrence, TE 20, 210, 233, St George’s Church 126-7 (Wadi Rum) 211 27, 28 262, 263 346 N P Qasr ’Uweinid 237 Romans 82, 258-9, 256, Nabataean Museum 168 Palestine Liberation Qatrana 226 257 Nabataean sites Organisation (PLO) Queen Noor 265, 277 Royal Botanic Garden 86 Alameleh 264, 265, 267 Queen Rania 277 Royal Society for the Inscriptions 215 Palestinian refugees 280 Quran 281 Conservation of Nature (RSCN) 295 Humaiyma 225 parks & gardens Qusayr Amra 237-8

INDEX INDEX Royal Tombs 164-6 Khirbet Tannour Royal Botanic Garden 86 Temple 146 passports 319 Rum 213 Lawrence’s House Pella (Taqabat Fahl) R running 21, 23, 308 rabies 332

N-S (Al-Qasir) 215 99-101, 99 radio 315 Nabataean Temple 213 Petra 9, 40, 155-78, 156, Rainbow Street 50 S Nawatef Trail 149 160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3 Safawi 245 Ramadan 21-2, 314-15 Petra 9, 40, 155-78, see also Wadi Musa safety 302-3 Rania, Queen 277 156, 160-1, 169, 8-9, accommodation 155 crime 303 Red Sea 12, 29-35, 31, 12 162-3 climate 155 Dead Sea Highway 108 Siq al-Barid (Little Petra) refugees 280 drinking 155, 176 desert 229 190-2 religion 249, 281-3, see food 155, 176 diving 33-4, 194-5 Nabataeans 157, 160, 255, highlights 156 also Christianity, Islam 256, 257-8 hiking 123, 157 internet resources 177 Rhotorios Monastery 104-5 national parks, see nature Jordan Valley 76-7 sights 158-70 Rift Valley 108, 253, 292 reserves minefields 303 toilets 177 Roberts, David 186 nature reserves 89, 295-6, Petra 157 tourist information 177 rock climbing 219, 308 294 road 67, 326 tours 179-82 Roman Army & Chariot Ajloun Forest Experience 81 scams 303 travel seasons 155 Reserve 88-91 Roman Mausoleum 98 Saladin 153, 259, 261, 338 Azraq Wetland travel to/from 157 Roman sites 9, 18, 259, , Salome 137-8 Reserve 236 travel within 158, 177-8 9 14, 26 Salt 101-3, 101 Burqu Reserve 229 Petra Church 168 Abila (Quwayliba) 94 Salt Archaeological Dana Biosphere petroglyphys 215 Ar-Rabba 141 Museum 102 Reserve 147-52 Pharaoh’s Island 205 Cardo Maximus 83 scams 303 Dibeen Forest photography 314 Seven Pillars of Wisdom Reserve 86-7 Church of St Cosmos & planning, see also St Damianus 82 209, 210, 213-15, 234, Mujib Biosphere Reserve individual regions 250, 262 Forum (Amman) 49 117-19, 14 budgeting 17 Sextius Florentinus Forum (Jerash) 80 Red Sea Aqaba Marine calendar of events 21-3 Tomb 166 Park 31, 194, 205 Hadrian’s Arch 79 children 36-7 Shaumari Wildlife Shaumari Wildlife Hippodrome 80 internet resources 17 Reserve 236-7 Reserve 229, 236-7 North Gate 83 itineraries 24-8 Shiites 282 Wadi Rum Protected North Theatre 83 Shobak 152-4 Area 194, 209-20, Jordan basics 16-17 Nymphaeum Shobak Castle 153 222-3, 212 travel seasons 16, 21-3 (Amman) 49 shopping 284-7, see also newspapers 315 plants 19-20, 211, 293 Nymphaeum (Jerash) 84 individual locations Noor, Queen 265, 277 politics 249-50 Odeon 49 Shrine of the Beheading of population 249 North Gate (Jerash) 83 Pella (Taqabat Fahl) John the Baptist (Latin North Theatre (Jerash) 83 postal services 314 99-101 Church) 128 Nureddin 261 public holidays 314-15 Qasr Aseikhin 245 Shuneh al-Janubiyyeh Nymphaeum (Jerash) 84 Qasr Burqu 245-6 (South Shuna) 103 Q Roman aqueduct 72 Siq al-Barid (Little Petra) Qala’at Ar-Rabad (Ajloun Roman Theatre 48-9, 26 190-2 O Siq (Petra) 159-60 Odeon 49 Castle) 87 South Decumanus 81-2 Siq Umm Tawaqi 215-16 opening hours 17, 313-14 Qasr al-Abad 72 South Gate 80 Site of Jesus’ Baptism 104 oryx 236 Qasr al-Azraq 234, 19 South Theatre 81 Six Day War 264-5 Ottoman Empire 260, Qasr al-Bint 167 Temple of Artemis 83 smoking 315 261-2 Qasr al-Hallabat Fort 230 Temple of Hercules 45-8 snake bites 332 Ottoman Village (Umm Qasr al-Mushatta 240-1 Temple of Zeus 80-1 Qais) 98 Qasr al-Tuba 245 Umm al-Jimal 242-4 snorkelling 29-35, 31, 32 Qasr Aseikhin 245 Umm ar-Rasas 139-40 Aqaba 199, 205 Qasr Burqu 245-6 Umm Qais (Gadara) 97-8 Red Sea 29-35 Qasr Deir al-Kahf 244 Western Baths 84 south coast 207-8 Map Pages 000 Qasr Kharana 239-40 Sodom 120 Photo Pages 000 Roman Theatre 48-9, 26 Qasr Mushash 245 South Decumanus 81-2 347 South Gate 80 Lion Tomb 170 Umm al-Jimal 242-4, 243 water, drinking 330 South Theatre 81 Monastery (Al-Deir) Umm ar-Rasas 139-40 weather 16, 21-3, 309, see Southern Tetrapylon 84 169-70 Umm Qais (Gadara) 96-9, also individual regions spa treatments 111-12, Obelisk Tomb 159 274, 97, 14 weaving 284 116-17, 19 Painted House 174 Unesco World Heritage websites, see internet sport 65 Petra 160 sites 250 resources

Spring of John The Roman Mausoleum 98 Dana Biosphere Reserve weights 315 INDEX Baptist 104 Roman Soldier’s 147-52, 13 West Theatre St George’s Church 126-7 Tomb 171 Petra 9, 40, 155-78, 156, (Umm Qais) 97 Western Baths 84 Street of Facades 160-1 Royal Tombs 164-6 160-1, 169, 8-9 S-Z Sunnis 282 Sextius Florentinus Qusayr Amra 238 wildlife reserves, see nature reserves swimming Tomb 166 Umm ar-Rasas 139-40 wildlife-watching Amman 54 Street of Facades 160-1 Wadi Rum 40, 193, 209- Aljoun Forest Aqaba 199 tomb caves (Abila) 94 23, 212, 10 Reserve 88 Dead Sea 110-11 Treasury (Al-Khazneh) 160 books 296 tourist information 316 V Dana Biosphere vacations 314-15 T tours 327 Reserve 147 Vaulted Gallery 80 Tafila 147 Amman 55-6 Dibeen Forest vegetarian travellers 290 Reserve 86 taxis 70, 71, 326-7 Aqaba 199, 201 visas 16, 316-18 Mujib Biosphere tea 290-1 hiking 310-11 volunteering 318 Reserve 117 telephone services 16, 315 Petra 179-82 Tell al-Kharrar Shaumari Wildlife Wadi Musa 179-82 Reserve 236 274 Wadi Rum 219-20 W Wadi Rum 211 Tell Elias 104 Wadi Araba 120 trains 54, 224, 263 wine 291 Tell Hesban 136 Wadi as-Seer 72 travel to/from Jordan Winston’s Hiccup 242 Temple of Artemis 83 Wadi Hasa 146-7 319-23 women in Jordan 279-80 Temple of Hercules 45-8 travel within Jordan 323-7 Wadi Jadid 15, 137, 15 women travellers 304-5 Temple of Winged Lions 168 travellers cheques 313 Wadi Mujib 140-1 work 318 Temple of Zeus 80-1 Treasury (Al-Khazneh) 160 Wadi Musa 179-90, 180, terrorism 302 trekking, see hiking see also Petra Theatre (Petra) 161-4 tuberculosis 332 Wadi Rum 40, 193, 209-23, Y time 16, 316 TV 315 212, 10 Yarmouk Battleground 94 tipping 313 typhoid 332 walking, see hiking yellow fever 332 toilets 316 walking tours tombs Amman 50-1, 51 U Z Christian Tombs of Aqaba 200, Umayyad dynasty 232, 200 Zarqa 229-30 Moghar al-Nassara 170 258, 260 Madaba 129, 129 Garden Tomb 171 Umayyad Palace 47 Salt 102 348 NOTES 349 NOTES 350 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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