Rediscovering the Great Wall See Beijing's Wonder of the World in N Ew Ways

japandroids jin yimeng capital cocktails transformers

2013/08

Rediscovering the Great Wall See Beijing's Wonder of the World in N ew Ways

look inside for more onestival our firstF burger

2013/08

ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY CN 53-1197/F ISSN1673-0178

1 August 2013 ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY 生态经济(英文版)

主管单位: 云南出版集团公司 Cashier Alice Wang 主办单位: 云南教育出版社 HR & Admin Manager Denise Wang 出版: 生态经济杂志社 HR & Admin Executive Cathy Wang 社长: 李安泰 HR & Admin Assistant Siyu He 主编: 高晓铃 Director of Digital Communications & PR Iain Shaw 地址: 昆明市环城西路609号云南新闻出版大楼4楼 Chief Technical Officer Badr Benjelloun 邮政编码: 650034 IT Support Yan Wen 国内统一刊号: CN53-1197/F Deputy Web Managing Editor Jessica Rapp 国际标准刊号: ISSN1673 – 0178 Junior Web Editor Crystal Li Managing Editor Steven Schwankert Photographers Lova, Sui, Mitchell Pe Masilun Deputy Managing Editor Paul Ryding Sales Manager Ivy Wang Editors Cat Nelson, Jessica Rapp, Nick Richards Sales Account Executives Heiko Busch, Sheena Hu, Amy Sun, Sophia Zhou Production Manager Joey Guo Sales Junior Account Executives Maggie Zhang, Contributors George Ding, Marissa Kennedy, Iain Shaw, Anna Rudashko Nick Skidmore, Allison Reibel, Daniel Kipp Whittaker, Elizabeth Wu Sales Assistant Wendy Lü Advertising Agency True Run Media General inquiries: 5820 7700, 5820 7100 全国广告总代理: 深度体验国际广告(北京)有限公司 Fax: 5820 7895 北京广告代理: 北京爱见达广告有限公司 Editorial inquiries: [email protected] 地址: 北京市朝阳区建国路93号万达广场10号楼2801室 Event listing submissions: [email protected] Sales inquiries: [email protected] 邮政编码: 100022 Marketing inquiries: [email protected] 电话: 5820 7700, 5820 7100 Distribution inquiries: [email protected] 传真: 5820 7895 Room 2801, Building 10, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Complimentary copy, not for sale. Chaoyang District, Beijing 100022 部分非卖品，仅限赠阅 General Manager Michael Wester Operations Director Toni Ma Editorial Director Jerry Chan Art Director Susu Luo Designer Yuki Jia www.issuu.com/thebeijinger Marketing Manager Shana Zhang the_beijinger Event and Brand Manager Victoria Yang Marketing Assistant Vicki Huang WeChat theBeijinger Distribution Coordinator Cao Yue facebook www.facebook.com/theBeijinger Accountant Judy Zhao twitter theBeijinger

2 August 2013 06 What’s Happening: Our pick of the best events of the month CITY SCENE Stat: Just how many parking spaces does our city need? Going Underground: Chongwenmen, Lines 2 and 5 Scene & Heard: Go on, look at yourselves, you beautiful people 12 Rediscover the Great Wall. Read the story of two 19-year olds who COVER FEATURE walked the whole length of the Great Wall and how you can experience their adventure with an exclusive tour. Also, we give you the scoop on the most exciting Wall activities available. It’s not all for tourists, you know 20 What’s New: Modo Urban Deli, Pie Squared, The Horizon Chinese Food & Drink Restaurant, Bantu, Alibi, Xiao Ju Courtyard, Whisky Bridge, Au Goulot, The Minibar Dining Feature: DIY Chinese Sandwiches Just Desserts: ViVi Dolce Gelato Last Orders: Matt Wong of Two Guys and a Pie Back For More: Haru Teppanyaki and Sushi Bar Alleyway Gourmet: Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Wokipedia: N is for … niunan, nong, nuomi, nen Taste Test: Toothpaste Dining Q&A: Chef Santosh Jori, Director of Kitchens, The Westin Beijing Financial Street Drinks Feature: Beijing Exclusive Cocktails Cocktail Profiler: Gordon Kutil of The Big Smoke Bistro … plus what we’ve loved eating this month 50 Inspect-A-Gadget: Tools for Short Trips Go What’s New Venues: Wing Fung Bicycle Company, Nostalgia Feature: Get your Transformers vocab down for Cybertron Con Page Turners: Apologies to My Censor by Mitch Moxley Get the Look: Board shorts are all the rage this summer Giveaways: Crowne Plaza Beijing Park View Wuzhou, Westin Beijing Financial Street Senses Restaurant, Wahoo, Ravioli Factory 62 Uniformity: Stephen Leonelli, Beijing LGBT Center MEET Feature: Jin Yimeng, Writer/Director Bookshelf: Qi Zhai, Yoga Instructor A Drink With: Michael Ohlsson, Owner of Dada Q&A: Japandroids Screentime: Stefen Chow, Photographer 70 Feature: William Lindesay sees the Great Wall not just as a historical ECOLOGY monument, but as wilderness that needs protection 73 What you shouldn’t miss this month EVENTS 79 FUN AND GAMES Win great prizes, plus Peking Man struggles with a moral dilemma

This month’s cover features Gael NEXT MONTH: SEPTEMBER Thoreau and Moeda Hoefnagels BICYCLING EVENTS of Beijing Sideways. Photography BEIJING DEADLINE: by Mitchell Pe Masilun. AUGUST 12

3 August 2013 The most important dates this month WHAT’S HAPPENING With his Get crunked, merry arsenal wear your of surrealist 21 imagery rooted 18 swag, then in heart-on-sleeve drop your romanticism, Owl City ahem ... at Miami will be in town to melt your heart and move rapper Pitbull’s first your body with his ever show in Beijing. sincere approach to He will heat up the electronic dance music. stage with his Latin inspired beats, and Haze Out booty-wooing flavor. and Haze Out #2 were 24 Release the both massive punks! Who events. What could knows what possibly go wrong 24 will happen at Haze Out #3 (in when Beijing’s top punk the park)? Wing Daniel Savio coined the word, outfits are unleashed your way to Tianjin on 2 Kolegas for the Limonious defined the sound. ten-year anniversary with the Haze crew Now skweee is the intoxicating and get down in the 23 festival. Expect plenty new sect of dance music of big colorful hair, tight Canal Park with a sweeping across Sweden and soon to jeans, and sleeveless vintage twist. be slamming into Dada. denim. Pet Shop Boys have achieved a lot during Psytrance shaman Paul Taylor an illustrious career spanning over 30 takes you on an audible journey years (see p62). And having played all to the deep inner spaces of 22 over the world, bringing the Beijing 24 consciousness, with genuinely MasterCard Center to life would certainly be contemporary music for those with the another accomplishment of note. most discerning taste.

Get appallingly It’s the summer of the burger, and by the time colorful while you read this it might just be clear who the final 10 embarking on 17 eight are in this year's the Beijinger Burger Cup. a five kilometer run in high summer. Said eight will gather at BCIS on this fateful day to But worry not; you’ll be decide, once and for all, whose patty is peerless. happy as a sandboy after completing the “happiest Experience this fantastic retrospective of 5K on the planet.” And an artist that not only became the voice just when you think of a generation but also changed the face it’s over, the finish line 8-11 of music forever. Expect a highly dramatic marks the start of a spectacle of imagination and artistry at Michael Jackson “Color Festival” party! The Immortal World Tour by Cirque Du Soleil. For more events, see p73. Visit www.thebeijinger.com for more details. 4 August 2013 5 August 2013 Start as you mean to go on

CITYCHONGWENMEN // JOKES SCENE // NEWSBITES // SCENE & HEARD

Beijing will need new parking spaces in the next two2.5 years if itmillion is to keep pace with car ownership.

Letter from the Editor t can or can’t be seen from space, if you don’t visit you’re p. 12). Lindesay made three separate journeys to walk not a real man or a real Chinese, the thrill of victory and the Wall’s entire length, and has emerged as its greatest Ithe agony of defeat. We know all that. protector. Clark and his friend Beau Bacevicius spent 106 We were bored with the Great Wall of China too, if it’s days traipsing from Jiayuguan, in Gansu province, at the somehow possible to become disinterested in having Wall’s westernmost point, to Shanhaiguan, the Wall’s one of the greatest construction feats of human history eastern sea terminus, the only known people to make one in Beijing’s backyard, a relic that serves as a historical continuous journey across its length. Inspired by these monument, outdoor recreation area, and scenic viewing crossings and with our guide, we invite you to begin your platform. own rediscovery of Beijing’s greatest landmark. Then we realized we were looking at it all wrong, and Beijing’s music and cultural calendars are quite full this thought it was time to rediscover it, to make it great again. month, with The Pet Shop Boys, Pitbull, and Cirque du So we moved away from the tourist throngs, got out Soleil’s Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour in town. where the Wall is wild, and tried to look at it from every Visit our the Beijinger website [www.thebeijinger.com] or possible new angle, and experience it in every new way. see our Events section to get in on the action. We flew over it, rode a horse on it, slid down it, dived under it, took a bicycle and sidecar motorcycle around it, had a picnic on it, made glass next to it and walked quite a bit of it for a good cause. Along the way, we met two of the Wall’s greatest ex- Steven Schwankert plorers, William Lindesay (see p. 71) and Eddie Davis (see Managing Editor

6 August 2013 generation gap

I can see the Great Wall from up here

Really? I’m made from bits of it

tell us a joke

Kenny Cao

ao Owner, Concertino Q: What did one wall say to the other? A: Meet you at the corner. Head to Concertino to check out Kenny’s boutique of vintage stereo equipment and art supplies. photo: courtesy of Kenny C courtesy photo:

7 August 2013 NEWSBITEs

There’s a new video parody in rate of just 18.3 percent. They say of the cost of driving. town: expats Mark Griffith and three factors have affected Capital’s A group called W o r l d Andrew “Big Daddy Dough” performance: growing demand for Grassroots Alliance for Paws Dougherty dropped their music air travel; a high military to civilian in China (catchy, right?) claims video “Beijing State of Mind” to air use ratio (80 to 20); and poor to have freed eight dogs much positive feedback. Princess seasonal weather. rounded up by police during the Fortier plays Alicia Keys. Hitting up The term “Diaosi” (an insult for a recent crackdown on large and famous locations around the city, poor, young slacker – aka a loser) “dangerous” breeds. Two healthy rhyming and crooning about life went viral on the Chinese web. dogs were taken to an “undisclosed in Beijing, Dougherty touches on Diaosi is being used more and location” while six others were clichés including sanitary habits, more by Chinese netizens who face sent to a local animal hospital scooters, and the smell of the everyday struggles and hardships after their release from a local subway. vying for status and success. police station. Society used to complain a lot Xinhua reports that Beijing’s taxi If Beijing’s air doesn’t kill you, about spinsters, now it’s about booking center has integrated your bubble tea might. A recent the leftover men crisis. In 2012, eight smartphone apps into its probe into drinking straws sold 117 males were born for every service. Tipping functions on all by Shanghai’s Yu Garden whole- 100 females. Many Chinese men eight have been removed to avoid salers found that 90 percent of have reported they are unable to concerns of “covert negotiation of drinking straws did not meet find a wife. By 2020, their numbers fees” raised by apps like Didi Dache quality standards. According could increase to as many as 30 and Yaoyao Zhaoche. Unregulated to Xinhua, some straws could million. apps not included in the service are contain hazardous materials According to the world’s premier banned in the capital, officials say, that could dissolve into your wine industry gathering Vinexpo, announcing that they plan unveil an drink, causing harm to the diges- studies show China’s consumption app of their own. tive system, premature sexual of white wine grew by more than development, infertility or even Beijing’s drivers will be happy 53 percent between 2007 and cancer. to hear plans are underway to 2011. The organization predicts introduce express shuttle buses to Good news for anyone hoping growth exceeding 56 percent from carry people along customized to start up an early morning tai now until 2016. routes from home to work this qi habit: According to Xinhua, Flightstats.com named Beijing September. Passengers will pay a Beijing will have 15 more “leisure Capital International Airport the monthly fee to reserve a seat on the parks,” covering more than 200 most delayed airport in the Wi-Fi-equipped buses, which are hectares (1.24 miles), by the end world, with an on-time departure estimated to cost about 30 percent of the year. No glove, no love. According to Bloomberg, China’s condom market will grow by approximately 60 percent in the next five years, as a growing percent- age of Chinese youth engage in premarital sex. This is definitely good news, as The Atlantic reports that new AIDS cases in China grew almost 13 percent in the first ten months of 2012, compared with Coming soon: 15 new places to be leisurely the same period in 2011.

8 August 2013 going underground Chongwenmen, Lines 2 and 5

Selling Point Once the southeastern gate into the old city, Chong- wenmen bustled with cartloads of goods and especially wine, flowing to and from the capital. Now the shopping centers south of the station help keep the bustle alive.

Trade Head south from Line 5 exit C2 and ease into a day of shopping at Glory Mall. A relaxing and fashionable environment is punctuated by a five-story, man-made waterfall in the center of the building. Facing the waterfall, a 20-square-meter LCD screen has taken the role of the ancient tradesmen who once advertised their goods at the gate, telling you what products are hot and to buy, buy, buy. Across the street things get busier at the New World Shopping Mall which houses a host of youth fashion boutiques and a giant underground supermarket. Shopping here at rush hour is to be avoided as the crowds can be unbearable.

Sightsee While buying and selling has always been the theme of the area, the history of Chongwenmen is best remembered by the Ming City Wall Park. The wall was refurbished using traditional lime and plaster and contains many of the original bricks, which were returned by residents who were using them in their homes. Even more culture awaits park visitors at the wall’s eastern end. Dongbianmen Watchtower, another former gate to the Inner City, now houses Red Gate Gallery, which regularly holds art exhibitions. This area is also home to many of the sights mentioned in Paul French’s best-selling Midnight in Peking. Walk to the north side of the subway station and enter Beijing’s former badlands, a mix of colonial architecture and former dance halls, bars, and other venues of ill repute, like embassies.

9 August 2013 SCENE & HEARD SCENE & HEARD

Ten chilli-chomping warriors battled it out in the ultimate taste bud endurance test at Canadian International School of Beijing on June 29. Photos by Lova

Beer enthusiasts gathered at Galaxy Soho on June 21 and 22 for the Second Annual Beijing Craft Beer Festival, which featured a stellar selection of craft beer from local breweries. Photos courtesy of Liz Phung, and James Munro

Independent label Sean Suen showed off their FW2013 collection at Eastation Gallery on May 29. Photos courtesy of Liquid Element

Approximately 1,000 people showed up to ‘dazeFEAST 2013 at 2 Kolegas on June 29 to feast on lamb and dance outdoors to a lineup of local rock and folk bands. Photos by Frank Yu

Haze Out returned on June 22 for The Peninsula Beijing unveiled their new a second all-night party under the rooftop bar and lounge Yun on June 14. stars. Photos courtesy of Haze Photos by Mitchell Pe Masilun

10 August 2013 SCENE & HEARD SCENE & HEARD

“Fifty Shades” isn’t a great book, but Haze made sure it was one heck of a party on June 29. Photos courtesy of Haze

DJ Dayle dazzled the dance floor at GT Banana’s Cybertron Electro Storm party on July 12. Photos by Kristina Parchomchuk

Five speakers shared their thoughts on relationships between themselves and the city at 751 D-Park on June 13. Photos by Frank Yu

Today Art Museum hosted the 2013 Martell Artists of the Year ceremony on June 15. Photos courtesy of Martell

Steely Heart, Queen Sea Big Shark, Nova Heart and other local acts performed at Yugong Yishan on July 9. Photos by Kristina Parchomchuk

Travers Nash exhibited an innovative form of making music using the Mindflex toy from U.S. game maker, Mattel at Zajia Lab on July 13. Electronic music producer TNEM kept Photos by Jessica Rapp Lantern’s dance floor bouncing with bass on June 13. Photos by Jessica Rapp

11 August 2013 106 Days Relive two boys’ expedition traversing the Great Wall, then use our guide to start having adventures of your own

n June 3, 2000, Beau Bacevicius, a 19-year old from Michigan, kicked what he thought was a paper cup. When he realized it was a piece of skull, he and his friends, Eddie Davis and ZhaoO Jianwen began scouring the area for the rest of the body. They were on a stairwell that climbed a four-story high bed of rocks. It was the foundation for a railway track that crosses the Great Wall of China at what is traditionally considered its most western point, Jiayuguan, in Gansu province. Eddie, also 19, Zhao, 42, and Beau were starting a journey that had taken three years to plan. This was a dream seeded in the adventurous spirit of two high school boys — to traverse the whole length of the Great Wall on photo: Courtesyn tours. of Newma c foot and be the youngest people to ever do so. Over Christmas,1998, Eddie invited friends from the US to come visit him in China. Beau was one of them. He was a buff outdoorsman or “mountain man.” One day, the two teenagers climbed the harrowingly steep section of Simatai. “I couldn’t do it all when I was 15, I was too scared. My grandfather scared the crap out of us. Telling us if we fell we’d have to get air-lifted to Hong Kong,” Eddie recalls om

12 August 2013 was back at home in the US, trying desperately to explain to people why he didn’t finish. Consciously, the thought of stopping never crossed the hikers’ minds, but deep inside, the idea of stopping had become Eddie’s greatest fear. The biggest planning hurdle was getting permits to 106 Days pass through the military zones that had set back another Great Wall adventurer, William Lindesay, over a decade before. Up until they landed in China with all their gear, the two boys worried. “Beau would call me up and say, ‘Dude, this just isn’t going to happen,’” Eddie remembers. “And it’s not like back then there was a government bu- reau for ‘Walking the Wall.’” Zhao, their 42-year old companion, was a friend of a friend of Eddie’s grandfather. He was a CCTV actor and convinced the station to apply for a permit. A ten-page letter was written to the government proposing the trip should be allowed for the purposes of shooting a friend- ship documentary between the US and China. Eddie describes Zhao as handsome and stocky. “He looked liked an actor. He carried a comb with him in the desert and would stand on dunes combing his hair in the wind. We had boots and he wore Li-Ning tennis shoes. We made fun of him, but I’m convinced there was more to his history than he let on. For the type of marching we with a chuckle. were doing he was fast and strong at his age, even Beau Two years later, by the steep precipices of that 16th had trouble keeping up with him.” tower, Eddie turned to Beau and said, “I wonder how The permit came in the shape of what Eddie calls a many have walked this thing before? Would you walk it “magic red book filled with stamps.” When they were with me?” Beau answered: “I’d love to do that.” stopped by police, they showed the officers the book and On the first day of the trek, after Beau kicked the skull were greeted with salutes and warm smiles. fragment, the boys found two human leg bones wrapped On day five of the journey, Zhao rolled his right ankle. It in leathery skin. It was an omen for the hikers. Eddie was either broken or fractured. He walked on the injured explains, “To us it was like the guy was doing the same bone for 30 days before succumbing to the pain and was journey but from the other di- hospitalized to have liquid rection and couldn’t make the “Tanks were literally taking removed from his left knee, last steps before giving up. Or which had been carrying maybe he just got whacked and jumps off the Wall” all of his weight. He trailed somebody dumped him there. The value for human life the boys by train and bus and carried their equipment isn’t the same out there as it is back home.” before rejoining the last leg of the journey. Setting off through Gansu they fought sandstorms and They had over packed. They thought they would need dehydration. The blisters never stopped forming and the to survive days outside of civilization. Their bags were filled pain, especially in their hip joints, was constant. They were with cooking gear, gas, cameras, film, and even floppy routinely stopped by military police. Many parts of the Wall disks for a first generation digital camera. run through restricted military zones. Eddie remembers, But not a day passed when they didn’t see a village. “One time we watched tank exercises. They were literally They were greeted warmly with “Hello!” and “Foreigner!” taking jumps off the Wall and driving through it!” Some people were so shocked to see them they couldn’t Walking the Wall was physical torture and a mental even utter a word. battle. But the pain of planning the trip and getting The team pitched their tents in backyards and behind moral support beforehand had already scarred Eddie’s walls that faced west so as not to get woken by the subconscious. sweltering heat of the rising sun. They slowly jettisoned Along the journey he had a reoccurring nightmare: He their redundant equipment, sending it back to Beijing

13 August 2013 in packages. Their rucksacks were filled with peppers, cucumbers, boiled eggs, sausages and instant noodles that they ate raw. One night their camp was set up outside a village. Zhao woke them and said, “You have to see this.” Eddie and Beau rolled out of their tents. The moon was full and illuminated the shape of the Wall. They could see silhouettes holding rakes and shovels searching the area. “Who knew what they were after?” Said Eddie, “That was probably the closest we ever got to getting robbed.” The journey took them through the deserts and

steppes of Gansu, Ningxia and Shaanxi before entering richer foliage in Shanxi and Hebei. The Wall is made of whatever materials were available in the area during the time of construction. The western section is mainly layers of earth and reed and has some of the tallest watchtowers on the Wall, as the area around is so flat. In Shanxi they saw the first brick tower. In Hebei the overgrowth was so thick they into the blue emptiness of the sea. The sound of the water could barely see the bricks and were sometimes forced beating against the Wall sent chills through my body.” to walk around. When talking about some of the frustrations of his last When the sunburned hikers with scraped knees walked nine years doing business in China, Eddie relates back to through the tourist section of Mutianyu they were ap- his experience, “There’s nothing that really matters that proached by one tourist who asked, “Wow. How long have much. There’s nothing really for you to get worked up you been here?” Eddie answered, “The beginning.” about. Time goes by so fast you just don’t have time to

Family and friends greeted them when they arrived at spend worrying about stuff you don’t have control over. photo: Courtesyn tours. of Newma c the “end,” the eastern tip of the wall that juts into the Bohai When you’re out there and you’re on the Wall and you’re Sea at Shanhaiguan, or “The Dragon’s Head.” against the elements, you’re totally out of control, there’s In an article he wrote for Michigan State University’s nothing you can control except for yourself.” alumni magazine, Eddie describes the feeling: “September 20, 2000, just as the sun set over the Pacific On Sep 8, Newman Tours will be offering a chance to ex- Ocean, Beau, Zhao and I arrived at “The Old Dragon’s Head.” perience the Great Wall with Eddie Davis. This one-off tour A feeling of contentment and relief swept over the three will take place from 10am-7pm. RMB 980 (adults), RMB 780 of us as we touched the end of the Wall and gazed off (children under 14), www.newmantours.com. om

14 August 2013 The Great Getaway Experience the Great Wall from another angle

he Great Wall. It’s like the Statue of Lib- CYCLING ADVENTURES erty for New Yorkers, the Tower of London for Remember why you love your bicycle. Serk is leading Londoners: been there many times, done scenic cycling escapes for those in need of some tranquil that many times, won’t go there again until quality time with their two-wheeled friend. theT next relative or friend shows up in town, right? Take your pick from 11, 35, 70, or 100-kilometer rides But that’s missing the point. Not everyone lives within through rolling hills, where you’re likely to go an entire driving distance of an honest-to-goodness, day without hearing a car horn. For families, cycling fully-interactive Wonder of the World. Alone in the newbies and those who just want to chillax and take in Forbidden City? Maybe at closing time on a winter’s day, the sights, the shorter rides can be taken at your own but having the Great Wall all to yourself, rediscovering pace and followed up with an optional hike along the it in new, cool ways, as Beijingers, that’s something we Jiankou section of the Great Wall. Show-offs and pros can do every weekend. So, go back to the Great Wall can race over the last hill, win bragging rights and a and see it anew: alongside, underneath, overhead, on chance to be the first one with a cold beer in hand. your own or with someone you love. Riders from first to last will have their efforts rewarded hoolhouse at mutia n yu the s c hoolhouse at photo:

15 August 2013 with a gourmet BBQ lunch. Prices range from RMB 1,500-3000 Bikes are available for hire if you’re for flight times varying between ten lacking wheels or just want an and 30 minutes. Call or email for more upgrade. The price is RMB 500 and details. Nick Richards includes transport for you and your bike, guides, back up support, Hainan Air Beijing lunch and access to the base camp. Capital Helicopter Allison Reibel (5915 6745, 133 5201 5985, [email protected]) Serk 40-2 Beixinqiao Santiao, Dongcheng District. (134 2647 4634) SIDECAR RIDES 东城区北新桥三条 40-2号 Vroom vroom … Feel the wind in Upcoming Dates: your face and live dangerous biker Jul 20 (Summer Escape) fantasies as you zip along the wild Aug 17 (Summer Escape) Great Wall in a Beijing Sideways Sep 14 (Summer Escape) motorcycle sidecar. Travelling from Sep 19-21 the north of the city, you’ll get a quick Oct 3-5 stop at the Silver Pagodas then weave through small villages before you ar- HELICOPTER RIDES rive at the remote locations of either This is the closest you’ll get to see- Huanghuacheng or Shengtengyu. ing the Wall from space. Helicopters From there, stretch your cramped legs taking off from Badaling Airport will with a hike along untouched ruins give you breathtaking bird’s-eye and tame the adrenaline rush with views. Flying over the peaks and val- a quiet French picnic on the highest leys of the Badaling Scenic Area, see tower before you suit up for the ride the main section of the Wall snaking back. A two-day option continues its way through the hills. Then, if you’re with a stay in a guesthouse followed lucky, a pass over Guanting Reservoir by a thrilling ride back through the may reveal flocks of migrating birds, city and a classic Beijing tour. 150 different species of which make Beijing Sideways’ tours are all a home every year here, the largest taken with an expat insider who is wetland in Northern China. The last well informed on local history and piece of scenery this flight offers is geography. You will be driving with the majestic plains of the Kangxi your guide in the Changjiang 750 Grasslands. Try to spot herds of sheep motorcycle, a Chinese copy of the cattle and the odd fox or two before Russian M72, developed during WWII. your ride tilts and swooshes around to Prices range from RMB 2000-4200 take you back for a safe landing. depending on which tour package photos: mit Run by Beijing Capital Helicopter, you choose. And for an extra RMB 600, a member of Hainan Airlines Group, you can enjoy a bottle of champagne these tours are one of a kind. The with your picnic. Nick Richards c hell pe masilu n a d c company is the only one in Beijing fully-certified for aerial tourism and Beijing Sideways (139 1133 4947, their tour helicopters, the AS350B3 [email protected], Squirrel and EC135 Eurocopter, are www.beijingsideways.com) stable and plush. Be sure to arrive ourtesy of O rga n izers 40 minutes in advance, fasten your CHINA AIDS WALK seatbelt, stay away from spinning Walking the Wall this year can help rotors and prepare for some brisk make a real difference in your com- winds – ladies, watch your skirts. munity. Now in its second year,

16 August 2013 relax at the red capital ranch fly over the wall in a helicopter learn glass blowing at the schoolhouse

slide down mutianyu

17 August 2013 GLASS BLOWING walk for the community At the Great Wall? That’s right, resi- dent glass blowers from The School- house at Mutianyu give regular demonstrations of this artisan craft. Visitors can watch, free of charge, as sand and other ingredients are melted in a furnace. A blow pipe is then used to fill the molten glass with air – creating bubbles that are dyed and eventually shaped into fine works of art. This is Beijing’s first and only hot glass shop open to the public. Private demonstrations can be booked and custom pieces made for a fee. Call 6162 6287 for more details. Elizabeth Wu

The Schoolhouse at Mutinayu 12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou District. (6162 6506, info@theschoolhouseat- mutianyu.com) China AIDS Walk is a massive aware- THE MUTIANYU SLIDE ness and fundraising campaign that Besides the usual cable cars and ROMANTIC PICNIC culminates with a hike on the Great “I Walked the Wall” T-shirts, the For intimate dining on the Wall, head Wall on October 12. The goal of the renovated section of Mutianyu has out to Red Capital Ranch, a restored project is to have the public actively one tourist attraction worth giving Manchurian hunting lodge and participate in the fight against HIV/ a whirl. Wheeled toboggans can be request the picnic. A simple Tibetan- AIDS and against the discrimination driven down a 723-meter chute that style lunch will be provided for you to of people living with AIDS, rather than spirals down from the Wall. A nice just passively absorb information on climax to a day of sightseeing, this the issue. attraction certainly helps this section Over the coming months a large- stand out from other tourist traps, scale fundraising initiative will be when you’ve no choice but to play rolled out throughout the city and guide to visiting friends or family. everyone is welcome to become Mutianyu is a picturesque, albeit involved. Guidance will be provided touristy piece of Wall that was crucial to all participants, with training on to the defense of the city. It is 22 kil- appropriate methods for reaching ometers long with 22 watchtowers. out your community and teaching You can take the cable car up and slide people about HIV/AIDS related issues. down for RMB 60, or do a return slide Last year’s walk raised RMB 150,000 journey for RMB 80. A direct bus, the that was donated to people living 867, leaves from Dongzhimen at 7am with AIDS and awareness groups. and 8.30am everyday and departs You can help this year’s AIDS Walk back to the city at 2pm and 4pm. raise even more funds by becoming Alternatively, take the 916, which a participant. Contact the project for leaves from Dongzhimen every 15 more information. Nick Richards minutes, to Huairou and cab it to Changcheng from there. Nick Richards China AIDS Walk (info@chinaaidswalk.org, www.chinaaidswalk.org) www.mutianyugreatwall.net

18 August 2013 dive the great wall at panjiakou Let the horse do the hiking take up to the turret of a nearby Wall section. From there, take in the views of mountains and streams. History brings the true magic of this historical setting to life. Buddhist shrines dot the surrounding valley, and are filled with artifacts pre-dating the Tang Dynasty. The picnic costs around RMB 200 for two. To sustain the intimacy, a night at the Red Capital Ranch costs RMB 900 for a single room with queen-sized bed. The lodge is staffed by Tibetans and offers a window into Shambhlala and Himalayan culture as well as acting as a sanctuary for dogs. Transportation can be arranged via The Red Capital Club in central Beijing. Elizabeth Wu

Red Capital Ranch 28 Xiaguandi Vil- lage, Yanxi Township, Huairou District. (8401 8886, www.redcapitalclub.com. are wild, but PTP Club guides prom- a dam was constructed in 1977 to cn) 怀柔区雁栖下官地村28号 ise the horses are mild. They’ll carry provide for the newly rebuilt city of you up the picturesque mountain Tangshan nearby. HORSEBACK RIDING to hike and explore the Wall at your Diving the Great Wall is eerie and Explore the outer sections of the own pace. Then hold onto the reins intimate. It’s a giant, sleeping dragon Great Wall the way John Wayne would as you trot back down to a cowboy that requires the diver to swim up have. The unrestored areas of the Wall lunch of barbecued fish and wild close for a good look. The view reveals vegetables. Over lunch, wander the craftsmanship and aquatic life, includ- farmer’s courtyard, pet the dogs, and ing tiny fish and shrimp. Water depth check out the swallows in their love and temperature vary by season, but nests. Then there’s plenty of time on divers with even an Open Water Diver the air-conditioned bus back to the certification will be able to see parts city to post pictures of yourself on of the Wall. horseback all over WeChat. RMB 500 SinoScuba is the only dive includes transportation, lunch, horse operator with regular departures riding, Great Wall climbing and guide to the Wall, this year beginning service. Reservations must be made August 10-11 and continuing into in advance. Allison Reibel October. Overnight departures are RMB 1,500 per person, including PTP Club (136 9302 6428, ptpclub@163. food, basic accommodation, tanks, com) weights and shared transportation. Steven Schwankert SCUBA DIVING You can’t dive the Pyramids, but you SinoScuba (186 1113 3629, steven@ can dive the Great Wall. sinoscuba.com, www.sinoscuba.com) The Underwater Great Wall is 300–400 meters worth of Wall that (Disclosure: SinoScuba founder Steven disappeared under the Panjiakou Schwankert is the Beijinger’s Managing

lee, the orga n izers n lee, Coli photos: Reservoir in Hebei province, after Editor)

19 August 2013 Sip, nibble, gulp, chew, guzzle, savor, feast

FOODBEIJING COCKTAILS // TEPPANYAKI // &LOTUS LEAF DRINK CHICKEN // TOOTHPASTE

TRY THE FRESH TASTES OF BAROLO'S NEW CHEF EUGENIO IRACI

20 August 2013 nibbles and sips OPENINGS AND CLOSINGS Joining the migration to the Xingfucun neighborhood, Cafe de la Poste has started a new venture called O’Steak. We haven’t yet had a chance to drop by, but this sounds like good news, well-known as they already are for an excellent steak.

Taikoo Li North has a new Japanese robatayaki and sushi joint called Koyama. The menu runs the gamut from sushi to robatayaki (charcoal-based slow-grilling) to udon and soba.

Everyone’s favorite absinthe dispensary, Modernista, is closed throughout August for renovations. But fear not, it’s due to open again in September.

HAPPENINGS The guys over at Tavalin Bagels near Yashow have finally realized that people eat bagels in the morning, and are opening shop at 8am. Also, in collaboration with Andy’s Craft Sausages, they are offering the breakfast favorite of sausage, egg and cheese on a bagel.

The Rug near Chaoyang Park launched a whole new slew of offerings including a new weekday breakfast menu, a new summer menu and brunch specials to round out their already extensive selection.

In Gulou, Zajia Restaurant and Cafe has begun a new low-key food menu with a selection of freshly-made sandwiches, including tuna and bacon & egg.

The Bookworm Quiz has altered its ways. No more Monday night noodle-scratching. It launched its new look Friday night quiz last month.

COMING UP Home Plate Bar-B-Que owners Adam Murray and Seth Grossman officially announced the opening of a new location in Sanlitun this autumn. Chef Zach Lewison, most recently of 3sums, will be heading up the kitchen of the larger space and working to expand their menu.

The boys from 京A are planning to “spice things up” in the coming weeks with more pop-ups and some “random fun events.” Stay tuned to the Beijinger website for more details.

21 August 2013 Deli Delight modo urban deli Daily 10.30am-10pm. S10-31, 3/F, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 7207) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院三里屯太古里南区3层 S10-31

600m west of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10) photo: lova

22 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants he original Modo is dead; long live Modo Urban Deli. Gone are the mezzanine, the enomatic wine Tmachines and the “small plates” concept. In comes a deli offering sandwiches, pastas, cold cuts, cheese platters, and take-home provisions like coffee, flatbread and granola. With a more casual, playful feel, the redesigned Modo seems better adjusted to the demands of Taikoo Li customers looking for a quick lunch or dinner. Start with a couple of sides. The rich, grainy black olive tapenade (RMB 18) is excellent – punchy and concentrated. White bean hummus (RMB 28) is lighter, with lemon and olive oil, cilantro, red onion and peppers all adding bite over the gentle flavor of the beans themselves. While you can’t create your own salads or sandwiches, you can customize with a choice of meat and other add-ons. The deli sandwich (RMB 58) is one highlight: slices of walnut toast stuffed with salami or smoked turkey, cream cheese, pickles, lettuce and a touch of sweetness from a berry jam, served with a variety of olives on the side. The Cuban sandwich (RMB 68) is outstanding, combining roast pork, ham, Gouda, pickles and mustard. Of the salads, the Mediterranean (RMB 58) was more authentic than the cold Thai noodle option (RMB 68), but the quinoa (RMB 58) is an interesting alternative. The chocolate brownie (RMB 48) is attractively presented on a frying pan, with vanilla ice cream, berry coulis and candied walnuts. It could have been a bit more moist, but still, not a crumb was left untouched. Glasses of house red, white and sparkling wine are RMB 38, with around ten options each of white and red by the bottle (none exceeding RMB 350). There’s a 30 percent discount on buying wines to take home. As the weather cools, we’ll be enjoying the “Grilled and Oven” section, featuring pork belly, beef tenderloin, and an andouille and chorizo sausage plate from Max Levy’s Okra Works. Until then, we’ll be soaking up the sun on the terrace. Iain Shaw

Also try: Village Cafe, Mosto

sandwich and salad set

23 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants Starch Madness Pie Squared Daily 10am-9pm. 1/F, Bldg 1 (next to SWITCH! Cafe), Cathay View Plaza, 6 Xiangjiang Lu, Chaoyang District (8430 8859) 朝阳区香江路6号观唐广场1号楼1层

1km northeast of Maquanying station (Line 15)

et’s do word association: Wudaokou: students, pantheon dedicated to the gluten gods. Sanlitun: entertainment, Shunyi: suburbia. The Besides its quadrilateral Italian treats, Pie Squared Llongstanding stereotype of Shunyi as a diaspora offers salads and unique condiments. Homemade expat pocket of the northern capital turns out to vinaigrettes for antipasto and Greek salads (RMB 38), be true, but it’s not as far as you might think. While and silky garlic cream cheese dipping sauce for their Maquanying is a stop on the shiver-inducing Line 15, stromboli appetizer (RMB 40) add an extra taste of home. it still technically lies in Chaoyang District and contains In the coming months, they will be serving pastas and oases only a few subway stops away from civilization. sandwiches as well, and fresh sauces for pasta will be One establishment of this ilk is Pie Squared, a Detroit- joining the carb party. style pizza parlor located in Cathay View Plaza. What is From the small town pizza parlor decor, the cold Detroit-style pizza? Imagine a chewy deep-dish crust case packed with Dr. Pepper and Cherry Coke (RMB 20), layered with toppings ranging from fresh basil and to the flat screen TV displaying HBO movies and ESPN jalapeños to hand-mixed Motown meatballs and BLT sporting events, all signs point to the American Midwest. fixings. If that wasn’t enough, it’s square, creating crispy You even leave with that classic American dairy and corners you and your dining companions can fight over. carb-induced food coma – right before you’re shocked Co-owners Asher Gillespie, Michael Fan, and Patrick Jen back into Chinese suburban reality. Marissa Kennedy also roll out a fresh, grilled thin and traditional round crust, which they also use for their stromboli (RMB 55) Also try: Kro’s Nest, La Pizza photo: sui and cheesy breadsticks (RMB 19). It’s truly a veritable

STROMBOLI 24 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants No Fowl Play The Horizon Chinese Restaurant 海天阁中餐厅 Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District (8529 2188) 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层

500m southwest of Jintai Xizhao station (Line 10)

f you remember the former Horizon, clad in deep reds, you will be surprised at the utter transformation Iof the space. The main dining room has a distinctly contemporary feel to it – creamy off-whites and pale wood latticework. Three open kitchens face the seating area with large glass panes allowing a view into the preparation of double-boiled soups, claypot dishes, dim sum and Horizon’s signature offering, Ya Yuan Peking duck. The kitchen uses the wood of red date trees to stoke its oven and delicately impart its nuanced flavor to the duck (RMB 208, all prices subject to a 15 percent service charge). The bird can be accompanied by the usual sus- pects: pancakes (RMB 12 per 250g), shaobing (RMB 5 per piece) and portions of leek, sweet sauce, garlic, cucumber and white sugar (RMB 6 per set). Calling ahead is advised as roasting requires a lead-time of 70 minutes. Horizon’s scope extends beyond duck with a Canton- ese bent to their menu. Selections include house special- ties like pan-fried diced beef tenderloin with black pepper (RMB 168) and an excellent rendition of the standard ganbian sijidou, or dry sautéed French beans (RMB 48). It is wise not to overlook these, but the city’s eponymous poultry and its crispy, burnt umber skin are the real reason to return. Cat Nelson

Also try: Private Kitchen, Made in China

photo: courtesy of horizon courtesy photo: crispy duck

25 August 2013 dining feature

Northern Capital Picnic Making a Sino-Sammie by Marissa Kennedy

ummer picnics can be a drag when we can’t find all the comforts of home. No lukewarm macaroni dripping with mayonnaise,S no mushy potato “salad” with relish, and no sweaty cheese and crackers. Wait a minute – it’s as if these refrigerated dishes weren’t meant to be packaged, schlepped and eaten outdoors. Luckily, we live in a country where preserved and packaged goods aren’t just a time honored brand tradition. While Beijing has the old reliables: jia jidan (egg sandwich), rou jiamo (pork sandwich), lürou huoshao (donkey sandwich) and the like, creative types can easily riff on the sandwich concept with local ingredients for a DIY picnic. Into the test kitchen we went, and here’s what we came out with. photos: sui

26 August 2013 dining feature

THE SAVORY Spicy Pickled Green Beans

酱肘子 ( 红油豇豆) Tianfuhao Pork Hock (jiàng zhǒuzi ) hóngyóu jiāngdòu Steeped both in culture and tradition as a time- While the English translation (cow honored brand, this meaty treat comes from the pea) of this particular suan cai is quite extreme shank end of the pig’s leg bone and is unfortunate, it adds the essential braised until the meat is fork-tender. If you can’t and signature fiery pucker-inducing find it in your local packaged or frozen meat brightener for this sandwich. section, jinhua huotui (金华火腿) is an earthy. dry-cured alternative.

Fresh cilantro, cucumber, and carrots Lao Gan Ma (老干妈) The color of this spicy ferment- ed black bean chili sauce is as vibrant as its taste. Combine it with a little mayonnaise to Flatbread ( 烙饼) balance out the sweetness and làobǐng The chewy, unleavened laobing is a northern capital specialty, and the pump up the flavor – all while base for this spicy sandwich wrap. Pile up the ingredients, swaddle them giving you a kick in the pants. accordingly, and presto: fangbian sanmingzhi.

THE SWEET 蜂蜜 Honey (fēngmì ) It doesn’t come out of a squeeze 芝麻酱 Sesame Paste (zhīma jiàng ) bottle shaped like a bear, but local Zhima jiang is a silky, salty paste reminiscent of peanut and organic Chinese honey can be butter. Other uses include mashing it with chickpeas, easily found and even delivered garlic, and lemon juice to make a low-budget, China- to your door. Contact Shangri La style hummus. Farms (www.shangrilafarms.com) and DRW Farms (jiyunliang@ vip.163.com) for information on delivery and product availability.

Candied Fruit 水果脯 (shuǐguǒ pǔ ) Contrary to the vaguely plastic Barbie doll flavor of the variety we find in holiday fruit- cakes, these candied morsels actually taste like the fruits they prescribe to be. Try the 麻将烧饼 apricot variety to add tartness Sesame Bun (májiàng shāobǐng ) and texture, or add something Your standard shoabing is upgraded and sweet- from the sweeter side like the ened with a hearty pour of sesame paste into the preserved apple. batter before baking.

27 August 2013 Hallway Banter Bantu Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 202, 2/F China World View, Meilin Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (8587 1299) 朝阳区工体东路乙2号美林大厦2室202 1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10) photo: guo joey

28 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants he whole Bantu experience turns on Sardinian olive oil. The temperate climate of the Italian island is Tsuited to olive groves and chef/owner Robert Masili is generous in his pours of this exceptional import from his home region. On the afternoon we visited, eel (RMB 148) came atop a bed of thinly-shaved fennel carpaccio, the olive oil- soaked skin and vegetables offset by the flaky white flesh of the fish and a shallow river of fresh tomato gazpacho. The carbonara risotto (RMB 88) was decadent, although close to overwhelming in its creaminess and a touch more salt would accentuate the savory snatches of bacon and shavings of Pecorino. If you ever hesitate to eat vegetables, you learn here that the trick is simple: infuse them with olive oil. The pillow of mashed potatoes beneath the olive- crusted sea bass (RMB 178) was a convincing argument for this oil over butter, although the fish itself fell a bit flat, saved only by a sweet, earthy balsamic shallot. Have you had roasted cuttlefish before? If not, this is reason enough to order the black ink ravioli (RMB 98). Although the mains were certainly not disagreeable, come for the bookends of the meal which were stand- outs. Our bruschetta starter was a salty jumble of field and forest – a sloping mound of sautéed mushrooms, bacon, olives, puffs of mozzarella and of course, a liberal sprinkling of olive oil. The carrot tart is unlike the American understanding of carrot cake; it is lighter and unsullied by raisins and nuts. An excellent pistachio ice cream and a delicate cookie rolled in fennel seeds accompany and, in comparison, the shallow pool of chocolate syrup beneath it that seems merely to be Hershey’s is disappointing. But this disappointment is an exception and the excellent value of the weekday business lunch (two courses, RMB 88; three, RMB 138; four, RMB 178) more than made amends for that small transgression. Cat Nelson

Also try: Cepe, LM Plus black ink ravioli

29 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants No reason to Lie Alibi 吃喝现场 Daily 10am-1am. 2 Xingfu Yicun Sanxiang, Chaoyang District (6415 0108) 朝阳区幸福一村三巷2号

1.1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

erving contemporary American pub food, Alibi is dressing made entirely from marinated peppers. The a bold attempt at a rustic home joint across from first bite of the barbecue chicken burger (RMB 35) tasted Sthe flashing lights of Workers’ Stadium. Built on of overly soft Chinese bread, but with a second, deeper the philosophy of friends out for a good time, this is the bite, the cheesy coleslaw has just the right amount of perfect place to pre-game before dancing your tails off creaminess, and the bread was forgiven. The fat ass dog for the night. (RMB 35) topped with cheese and tomato was wrapped A metal staircase leads up to a surprisingly spacious with a layer of bacon, differentiating it from a regular second floor, decked out in red and black. Minimalist grey hot dog. steel tables with plastic tops harken back to diner days. Savoring the tastes and feeling refreshed from the The menu is as straightforward as you’d expect from Kentucky bourbon barrel ale (including the fat ass dog, the décor: salads, sandwiches, burgers and hot dogs. RMB 80), I felt transported to a different place, somewhere The paprika and chili pepper salad (RMB 35) with ro- oceans away – maybe a little bar just outside Nashville. maine, purple leaf lettuce and thinly sliced carrot had a Elizabeth Wu tangy sourness, followed by a welcomed sweetness – a Also try: Let’s Burger, 3sums photo: lova FAT ASS DOG

30 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW restaurants Game Set Match Xiao Ju Courtyard 小局院子 Daily 10am-10pm. 40 Xiao Ju Hutong, Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng District (135 5261 2965) 东城区东直门南小街东四十四条东四小菊胡同40号

800m southwest of Dongzhimen station (Line 2)

ou must have some foresight for Xiao Ju Court- yard. But without it, we discovered that the help Yis gracious. Despite not calling in advance, as we discovered was proper protocol, I was assured by the manager they could have things ready if I came back in a few hours. He offered a choice between two set menus (RMB 128 or RMB 288 per person), although soon they will have up to six, including vegetarian options. Although Xiao Ju Courtyard fancies itself as Chinese- French fusion, the standout dishes were the gourmet takes on classic Sino-staples. The secret Sichuan recipe for a fish filet in hot chilli oil was a light, flaky, boneless shuizhu yu. The spicy roast organic lamb chop was like if chuanr got a scholarship to Princeton and came back posh and polished but was, at heart, still the cool guy you grew up with. The dishes came out in a steady succession of portions small enough to add up to a cumulatively well-sized dinner. An elegant alternative to the neon-lit, flashy grease of Ghost Street nearby, Xiao Ju Courtyard allows you to kick up your feet and be taken care of. Although a hutong hide-away, it doesn’t require any complicated turns to find, and with choices kept to a minimum, the beauty of the prix fixemenu relieves you of the onerous work of decision making – or ordering in front of guests. Just remember to call a day, or at least a few hours, in advance. Allison Reibel

Also try: Life List, Dali Courtyard, Dianke Dianlai

shuizhu yu photo: mitchell pe masilun mitchell photo:

31 August 2013 JUST DESSERTS Dulcet Delight ViVi Dolce Gelato

Call 136 8138 2496, WeChat Official Account (vividolce) or Weibo (@vividolce) for events and personal delivery

ivienne Li takes her gelato very seriously. Fresh off flavor is intact; the only difference is the vibrant color of of heading up public relations for the Long March the frozen glaze as it sits in the freezer taunting you. The VSpace and the Ullens Center of Contemporary Art, cream-based flavors were also a delight. My favorite was Vivienne decided to explore her love for this sophisticated the strawberry, in which the puree was delicately mixed Italian take on ice cream. After two months of studying so that swirls of berry were still visible, striating the glassy at Carpigiani Gelato University in Italy, she personally folds of gelato. delivers her wares to businesses, birthday parties, and Prices are set at RMB 135 per 500g (special flavors) doorsteps in and around Chaoyang District. Although and RMB 99 per 500g (classic flavors). Vivienne has a few Vivienne is quite new to the dessert arts, she is already other ideas in the works, including gelato pops dipped creating quite a stir. in chocolate and a flavor of the week. It was an incredibly hot day when I had my first taste, She is a smart business owner and knows the game, but and I couldn’t wait to try my first cup of ViVi Dolce gelato. is taking her time and developing not only a dedicated clien- I began with her assortment of sorbets. The mango flavor tele but also a repertoire of unique flavors, like plum sake or was especially tasty. Using fresh mangoes from Hainan, coffee martini , that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. she leaves the mix unfiltered so that the natural fibers of Daniel Kipp Whittaker the fruit remain in the texture of the gelato. The original . photo: sui

32 August 2013 LAST ORDERS Matt Wong Co-Owner, Two Guys and a Pie

Each month, we ask noteworthy Beijingers to imagine their Dish(es) from your own venue? final meal before leaving the city for good. We’d make mini party pies of our most popular pies (the Slow Lovin’ Aussie, Two Guys and a Thai and the Biggs The venue Apple). Some sweet potato mash and gravy would pair Tuanjiehu Park. Being Australian, I love my barbecues well with the roast lamb on the spit as well! but I’ve always been too scared to start one outdoors in Beijing. As my last meal, this is a good opportunity to see The music and entertainment if I can get away with it! Any of my musical friends would bring their instrument and we’d all sing some songs. We’d play sports and race The starters around on the boats in the park. There’d be a knockout The honey wings from Wu Ge Jichi with chilli on one side tournament of Looping Louie, an old kid’s board game are my favorite wings in Beijing. The honey’s sweetness turned modern drinking game sensation. combined with the char from the grill are a match made in Finally, just before the sun rises we’d make our way heaven. Dongpo rou from MySoup would have to be there over to Tiananmen to watch the raising of the flags. I’ve simply because tender pork belly is one of the greatest never been but I promised I would do it the day I leave things you could ever lay on your tongue. Beijing.

Main course Drop by Two Guys and a Pie to meet a couple of slow-lovin’ We’d bring massive roast lamb legs and have a DIY carve- Aussies and eat some pie. up. I’d need to have one last hit of the tasty beef brisket, tendon and tripe noodles from Noodle Bar – 1949 Hidden Two Guys and a Pie City to wash it down. Sun, Tue-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11-4am. 32 Sanlitun Nan Drinks would be Chinese beers and rice wine in the (behind Yashow Market), Chaoyang District (186 1255 7637) bamboo flutes from Middle 8th. I’m not a big fan ofbaijiu 朝阳区三里屯南32号（雅秀后） but on my last night, I’m sure someone would force me

photo: lova photo: to down it.

33 August 2013 BACK FOR MORE

HARU EXPERIENCED? HARU TEPPANYAKI AND SUSHI BAR 尚水长廊铁板烧餐厅 Daily 10.30am-10pm. Unit N4-30, 3/F, Bldg 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 2112) 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区3号楼3层N4-30单元

1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

hat’s not to like about teppanyaki? The mind-blowing Norwegian salmon. But it was the sushi that social seating arrangement; the entertaining stole the show. The signature sweet shrimp and foie gras, Wflourishes of a talented chef; the free-pour caramelized at the table using a blow torch to our giddy beer and sake; and best of all, the steak. Haru, located delight, was a worthy winner. on the sleepy second floor of Taikoo Li North, is a Then attention moved to the iron plate as an exquisite more high-end option than some of the alternative fillet mignon (RMB 285) was prepared with garlic and teppanyaki joints in the district, but that’s reflected in the mushrooms. Almost full to bursting, the final flourish cost, which, while not astronomical, is higher than some came in the form of the delightful Amy Roll (deep fried of its competition. The glossy Sanlitun branch has the shrimp, sweet shrimp, avocado, salmon roe – RMB 108), edge over its neighborhood competitor, Tairyo, in terms an imaginative explosion of taste so rich, we could barely of aesthetics with its sleek minimalist interior. And unlike manage more than a couple of slices. its rival, it also hasn’t caught fire in recent memory. While a tad on the expensive side (you can expect to We shuffled through the corridors to our spacious pay upwards of RMB 300 per head for a good fill), Haru private room, which, aside from a sushi bar, make up does offer a wide selection of value-priced lunch sets for photo: judy zhou the brunt of the space in Haru. Starting out with a afternoon diners (RMB 85-255), but artistic presentation, selection of sashimi, we polished off a platter of cuts attentive service and fresh ingredients make Haru an (RMB 168) as fresh as any we’ve sampled in Beijing, the experience worth repeating. Paul Ryding highlights being the heavyweight Canadian prawn and a

34 August 2013 35 August 2013 ALLEYWAY GOURMET

POULTRY IN MOTION Hangzhou Lotus leaf chicken Various locations and times around Shuangjing subway station 朝阳区双井地铁站附近（各出口处流动售卖）

Shuangjing station (Line 10)

hen we were younger, the kids in the Alas, since that crisp winter’s evening, we never caught neighborhood would flee home for the loose sight (nor smell) of him again. Until today. We almost Wchange in their piggy banks upon hearing the missed the chance again – ever late, and hurtling past chimes of the local ice cream van. Now as adults we’ve him without so much as a glance, it was that smell, that discovered a further sensory signpost that sends us wondrous fragrance, sweet and distinctive, that grabbed scampering home to grab some change post-haste: the us by the nostrils and promptly turned us around. smell of the Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Man. He fre- When we first tried it around six months ago he quents the Shuangjing area sporadically, but like the Scarlett charged RMB 18. We had caught him on a stroll from Pimpernel of perfectly prepared poultry, his visits are so Shuangjing subway station standing 50 yards east of the rare and so fleeting that the notion of “getting him next northeast exit. And the day we write this, he’d set up shop time” can mean a missed opportunity to sample his wares close to the Carrefour car park, 200 yards further east of for an inordinate period. Shuangjing subway station. He charged us RMB 30 this The idea of making Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken time, still a bargain but maybe on this sunny day we copped photos: guo J oey Man the subject of Alleyway Gourmet was first pitched the summer’s day tax. Our serving suggestion? Sliced, while after we tried his signature marinated, boiled, lotus leaf still warm, over lightly toasted bread with mayonnaise and wrapped and steamed chicken way back in January. black pepper. Simple and delicious. Paul Ryding

36 August 2013 WOKIPEDIA A

N is for … … niunan 牛腩 Sliced from the belly of the cow, niunan is a piece of brisket. We don’t have a cut quite like this in the West, so there’s no exact English name for it. Niunan comes from near the tripe and looks a bit like grafted tofu skin. It’s rich and flavorful, but those of you who don’t like tendon or cartilage, steer clear. Niunan mian (牛腩面) makes a chewier version of the traditional bowl of niurou mian (牛肉面), that staple Taiwanese dish of beef noodles.

… nong 浓 You’ve come across it early in the morning, bleary-eyed and looking for a strong, compact dose of caffeine. Nong kafei (浓咖啡) is the term for espresso – essentially “concentrated coffee.” Nong can apply to tea when the leaves are many and the brew turns dark or to a drink when the bartender has had a liberal hand with the liquor. And if you’re sipping nongtang (浓汤), think a creamy pumpkin or potato pureed soup rather than a clear chicken broth.

… nuomi 糯米 Nuomi, that sticky, glutinous rice, has endless forms. It’s versatile and can be transformed into two of the best things – alcohol (nuomijiu, 糯米酒) or “cake” (nuomigao, 糯米糕). Nuomiqiu (糯米球) make appearances everywhere, from dim sum carts to street stands. These fried sticky rice balls are typically rolled in sesame seed, with warm centers of lotus or red bean paste and nicknamed maqiu (麻球), mayuan (麻圆) or matuan (麻团).

… nen 嫩 If you find your meat too tough, try shouting rou bugou nen (肉不够嫩), “This meat is not nen enough.” Nen is that necessary meat word; tender or delicate, it’s the ideal state for cooked meat. Qing zuo nen yidian (请做嫩一点), “a bit more tender, please” is a kind request to the kitchen for a more succulent slice of sirloin.

37 August 2013 TASTE TEST

Local Toothpaste Flavors for Your Grill by Cat Nelson

n honor of America’s annual National Crest, Herbal (RMB 5.50) BrushFresh Breath Day on August 6, the it “BetterOff than your average hotel toothpaste” Beijinger moved office to the bathroom. “Smells like PineSol … PineSol means clean to me” If you’re looking to avoid halitosis, what’s “Tastes better than all that water we drank last Ithe most delicious – or perhaps, the least month” offensive – cleaning treatment for those “What part of China do you think this flavor origi- pearly whites? Read on and your taste buds nated in?” “Germany.” might thank you. “If you brushed your teeth hard enough with this, you’d be able to speak Hokkien or one of the Fujian dialects.”

Ora2 Stripe Paste (RMB 23.80) “Looks pretty Europe- an. French. Like it went abroad or something.” “I can smell the inside of a Junior Mint on your breath.” “This one would make a great hotel toothpaste.” “It’s pretty painful. Does anyone else have pain in their mouth?”

Colgate, Watermelon Rind (RMB 4.10) “This looks like one that my dad would have.” “It smells German – very proper, serious.” “This one is that really good bubblegum flavor that the cool kids have.” “Like Doublemint?”

38 August 2013 TASTE TEST

Zhuyan, Pine Extract (RMB 10.80) Zact (RMB 9.90) “Smells like a pet store, the smell of lizards and “It reminds me of some household saw dust.” product, and whatever household “My mouth is numb. Is this mala?” product it reminds me of says ‘not for “If the craft beer approach came to toothpaste, oral use’ on it.” it would be this. ‘Oh, I put Sichuan peppercorns “My mouth is just saying ‘thank you.’” in it!’” “I suspect this is how toothpaste “This is the one that was made in China, but by a maybe tasted before the Great War.” laowai entrepreneur.”

Darlie, Jasmine and White Tea (RMB 9.50) Zhonghua, Cherry (RMB 3.50) “I think this one is best for the smokers.” “Grains in bread: good. Ice “I’m going to counter that. It doesn’t tastes cream: you never know. Tooth- at all like gasoline; gasoline is much nicer.” paste: never.” “Sitting at a petrol station, gently inhaling “It’s a child’s nightmare.” the fumes is much better than this.” “It’s like some of the worst “Vulgar.” tendencies in China of trying desperately hard to be Ameri- can and failing.”

VERDICT “The inside of my mouth smells like an octogenarian who fell asleep in the bathtub – very shriveled,” noted one our taste testers on finishing the marathon brushing session (rinse, swirl, spit). Perhaps we’re just a bunch of boring traditionalists, but minty flavors were the main crowd pleasers. Ultimately, though, an unlikely contender prevailed. Ever wonder what the most refreshing toothpaste flavor is? Watermelon rind.

39 August 2013 Q&A I’m from India originally, so I like spicy food such as Sichuan and Hunan cuisine.

Do you dine out for the food, or for the atmosphere? To choose a nice dining venue, I would say the quality of the food has to be very good but at the same time personalized service and ambience are also very important. Today’s modern dining environment has changed and people are more food savvy. We now live in a casual society. Casual chic restaurants are winning over patrons and white-tablecloth, formal dining is reserved for only special occasions. Despite the preference for a relaxed dining environment, the world’s palate is growing more and more sophisticated.

To which restaurants do you take visitors when they come to Beijing? Like Mama Used We have a fantastic Prego Restaurant here which is a fun Italian-dining venue at The Westin Beijing Financial Street to Make as a first option for guests. If I want to go out and discover Chef Santosh Jori, Director of Beijing, then it has to be Da Dong. Kitchens, The Westin Beijing Financial Street What Chinese restaurant would you most want to franchise in your home city? by Steven Schwankert Considering the palate of Indians, Cantonese cuisine like new arrival on Beijing’s culinary scene, Santosh Jori Jewel here would fit in the market very well and would be landed in the city with his family from India just very successful. Athis summer. A native of India but trained in French cuisine, he’s learning that Beijing offers a whole new slate When someone visits you from home, what’s the one of culinary possibilities. food item you ask them to bring? Homemade pickles from my mother’s kitchen. My mom What do you like to cook most? makes the best raw mango pickles which are fragrant with As a chef, I like to play with chocolate because it reminds cloves, black peppers and jaggery. We are going to feature me of being a child. To me, cooking is all about passion a “Mom’s Kitchen” concept for a month at Senses, where we and creativity. are inviting my mom to showcase traditional Indian cuisine to Beijing guests. It will be a culinary journey to northern What’s the most memorable thing you’ve eaten in and western India.

Beijing so far? photo: courtesy of the westin beijing financial street Before my arrival last month, all I had heard was Beijing What is Beijing’s dining scene lacking, or need more duck is very popular, and I loved it when I had it for the of? first time with my family. Chef Andy, our Executive Chinese Good quality street food that is tasty and also a good option Chef, prepared it in a traditional way and the duck was for everyone, including the locals. accompanied with three different types of pancakes. It was absolutely delicious. What was the very first thing you ate after you arrived in Beijing? It’s your day off. You’re going out to eat. Do you choose We had fantastic la mian – hand-pulled noodle soup at something Chinese, or something international? Senses after an almost 18-hour journey. It was fantastic to As I am very new to Beijing and it’s my first time in China, we see the chef making fresh varieties of noodles serving with are discovering Chinese cuisine on my days off. However, seasonal vegetables and meat dumplings.

40 August 2013 p.s. we ate you Every month, we like to shine a spotlight on the most delicious dishes we’ve stumbled upon recently. In preparation for the Beijinger 2013 Burger Cup this month, we’ve been eating only burgers. Sink your teeth in! blue cheese Portobello burger The Big Smoke Bistro, RMB 68 A half-carnivorous, half-vegetarian split, this burger contains a cheese-coated mushroom on one side and a beef patty on the other. The standard lettuce and tomato accompany, along with a bright spot of chipotle mayonnaise, all on a sesame seed bun. Truffle oil French fries round out an already satisfactory plate. dry rub avocado burger The Local, RMB 75 Juicy, spicy, and fortified with half of a ripe avocado plus lots of house salsa piled on. The fixings are plentiful with onion, tomato, pickles, and a slice of cheese. Onion rings are a welcome change from the usual fries and these leave nothing to be desired – crispy, but not greasy.

Frost burger Back Alley Bistro, RMB 42 Served on something more akin to an English muffin than your standard bun, this burger has a true homemade feel. With standard fixings on the side and ketchup, mustard, and mayonnaise in squeeze bottles, it immediately evokes memories of backyard barbecues in early July. cheeseburger Rumi, RMB 85 Promising cheese, sautéed mushrooms, onions and French fries, from the first bite, it delivers, and continues to impress with each subsequent mouthful. The thick, doughy bread plays a fine supporting role, holding things together and allowing you to enjoy the meat. There’s just enough moisture to keep you happy. the original burger Let’s Burger Plus, RMB 68 The beef patty comes on a toasted bun with organic lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles. The meat is juicy, the garnishes fresh and crispy and the buns pre-smeared with a bit of mayonnaise and ketchup. Fries are extra, but of the thick, steak-cut variety – a rare treat in this town.

41 August 2013 Only in Beijing Only in Beijing CONCOCTIONS UNIQUE TO THE CAPITAL by Daniel Kipp Whittaker

ith so many interesting and fresh The creative blends encompass the spectrum of flavors photos: mitchell pe masilun ingredients at their disposal in Beijing, our you are likely to encounter during a night out in Beijing. Wbartenders are able to come up with some So if you are willing to explore and colonize a new amazing and unique recipes. Featuring local ingredi- zone of your palette, this is a list of some of the more ents, and created by local mixologists, these selections interesting cocktails we were able to track down, and are not only delicious, but also exclusive to the capital. venues where you can sample them.

42 August 2013 drinks feature 45ml Hengshui Lao Bai Gan 45ml pink grapefruit juice 10ml Orgeat A squeeze of lime Topped with mint leaves and goji berries Cu Ju 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District (6407 8608) 东城区细管胡同28号

Paloma Para Mis Otras A variation on the classic Paloma adds local organic dried hawthorn martini fruit tea to infuse the tequila blanco, before sweetening it with whole stevia leaves. The tea lends an earthy bitterness for the sweet and sour to rest upon. Bei Bing Yang & Tequila The mixer here is a classic Beijing soda that was very 45ml dried fruit tea Agavales Tequila Blanco popular in the 1980s and then disappeared due to a never- 60ml fresh grapefruit juice ending lawsuit with Pepsi. Bei Bing Yang re-emerged in 15ml fresh lime juice 2011, and is now a go-to drink and occasional OJ substi- 15ml sugar syrup tute for many Beijingers. A pinch of sea salt Topped with soda water and served in a tall glass, over 45ml Olmeca Tequila Blanco hand-cut ice cubes. Topped with Chengzi Bei Bing Yang Apothecary 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District Mas 25 Beixinqiao Toutiao (behind Guijie, near (5208 6040) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 Beixinqiao subway station exit B), Dongcheng District (6405 4337) 东城区北新桥头条25号 Jing Fling Three different flavors of alcohol to awaken your inner Hawthorn Martini lao Beijing. A couple of these and you might lose control The guys at Flamme wanted to include some refreshing of the volume of your voice. It was only a matter of time Beijing flavors on their latest drinks list, so they opted for until the foreign element discovered a way to showcase the local hawthorn fruit. They infuse a bottle of Ketel One this infamous local spirit. vodka with the dried strips and shake in crème de cassis and fresh lemon. The result is a classy, alcoholic version 15ml local baijiu of a candied apple. 15ml cinnamon infused vodka 15ml sour plum infused vodka 50ml hawthorn-infused Ketel One vodka 30ml sour plum juice 20ml crème de cassis Garnished with lemon and star-anise 15ml fresh lemon juice Mao Mao Chong 12 Banchang Hutong, Dongcheng District Flamme S4-33, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang (6405 5718) 东城区板厂胡同12号 District (6417 8608) 朝阳区三里屯路19号太古里南区3 楼S4-33室

No Regrets In the West, wine brings to mind a weekend in the country, toasting a chilled glass over a dramatic sunset. Here, it conjures images of drunken chugging between incredible feats of inebriated dexterity. This one is right in the middle, with a nice, floral bouquet followed by a fruity kung-pow punch. jing fling

43 August 2013 Smooth Crossing whiskey with wisdom photo: courtesy of W hisky B ridge

44 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS Whisky Bridge Daily 5pm-midnight. 2/F, Conrad Beijing, 29 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District (6584 6302) 朝阳区东三环北路29号北京康德酒店2层

500m north of Hujialou station (Lines 6 & 10)

f I go to a whiskey bar, I like asking the bartenders to suggest a drink. Alarm bells ring when the bartender I“recommends” the most expensive drink. A vacant, open-mouthed expression of terror means you should leave immediately. And nobody wants the “tour guide” who powers his way through blatantly scripted tasting notes. Hiding behind each of these depressing cases is an owner more concerned with profit than customer satisfaction. The contrast is a place where the staff speak with confidence, making suggestions that invite you away from your fallback choices. Whisky Bridge is one such venue. I reflected on this as the bartender picked out the 14-year-old Arran (RMB 95). Intrigued, I checked my usual urge for the peat-and-smoke of an Islay single malt (a ten-year-old Laphroaig is RMB 90). Sipping on that Arran, a robust, spicy and slightly sea-salty malt, I noted the restricted view from this “bridge” above the lobby of the stunning Conrad Beijing. There are windows on either side of the long bar, but people-watching opportunities are limited. Like some of Beijing’s Japanese bars, Whisky Bridge almost feels intended as a secret. I imagined the place buzzing with hushed conversations and off-the-record revelations. Perhaps I had been reading too many stories about Ed- ward Snowden. Time for another drink. Our friendly bartender recommended Noah’s Mill (RMB 90), a 15-year-old bourbon with a punchy 57.1 percent ABV. At that strength, the flavor is sharp, but sweet and smooth enough to savor slowly on the tongue. When the glass ran dry, the bartender pulled out a bottle of Lagavulin. Excellent choice, but it was time to be moving on. A hotel bar means hotel prices, and all orders come with a 15 percent service charge. Whisky Bridge also offers quality tapas and cold cuts, and there are plenty of other drinks. Still, they named the bar for a reason – eventually, they’ll be stocking 130 reasons to visit. Iain Shaw

Also try: Ichikura, Ritz-Carlton Bar

45 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS

SWAN NECKING AU GOULOT Daily 9am-midnight. 43 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng District (135 2163 1176) 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号

500m from Guloudajie station (Line 2)

t eight o’clock on a Tuesday evening, the songs a shrine to some past period of opulence. Dim throughout, my companion described as “French youth the tiny lamp on our table flickered on and off continually. Ahostel music” were suddenly drowned out by The couches are dingy crushed velvet. There’s a drum kit party anthems blaring in through the glassless windows. that looks as though it was hastily stacked when the cops We were sitting in Au Goulot, in the shadow of the Drum rushed a raging party (they do host DJs and bands from Tower, and the dancing geriatrics had just started up in time to time). And that eternal symbol of handsome living, the square outside. the rotary phone is scattered throughout. The marvelous French fries – thick cut, lightly salted, It’s dark and plush – a bit like a tiny Xanadu – and, and crisp on the outside – went quickly, but we were although they’re open mornings for coffee and fresh juices still lingering over our drinks when the dancers’ music (without the gin), it seems more like a space designed for came on. We considered leaving, but decided to stay for the evening hours. They have a large beer selection and another round. I had the Wagin (RMB 40), gin and fresh some nice wine choices, but we’d recommend the mixed photo: mitchell pe masilun watermelon juice. It was refreshing and thick like some drinks, reasonably priced and stronger than you’re likely manner of alcoholic health tonic. One of Au Goulot’s to find elsewhere in the area. Have as many as it takes to affable owners overheard us deliberating the snack convince you to order more fries. Allison Reibel choices and suggested a flame kuche (RMB 50), a thin- crusted pizza with bacon and onions. Au Goulot only opened in May but the place seems like Also try: Drum and Bell, Nearby the Tree

46 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS PINT-SIZED SURPRISE THE MINIBAR Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight. Corner of Dongsishitiao and Heng Jie Hutong, Dongcheng District (no telephone) 东城区东四十条与横街胡同角

300m east of Zhangzizhonglu station (Line 5)

he first time I tried to stop by The Minibar, it was packed (five people). The second time I stopped by I Tcouldn’t get a seat (four people inside, four outside). When I finally got in one early evening, I left pleased at my persistence. I was worried initially. Much has been made of the fact that the bar challenges (unofficially at least) for the title of world’s smallest bar, with official recognition still being sought, and I hoped that dubious claim wasn’t the only matter of note about the space. The Minibar is the latest project from Joseph Kornides – he of 12SQM, the previous incumbent to the title of Beijing’s most humble. A gimmick it may be, but the size and location of The Minibar lend themselves to a very passable homeward pit stop. It’s all there; an actual bar top, a sound system, free Wi-Fi, a sizable collection of spirits (RMB 25 mixers) ranging from the regular to the not so common (a bottle of ten-year-old Bushmills was a pleasant discovery), and a modest but varied bottled beer list ranging from Tsingtao and Corona (RMB 25, RMB 30) to Guinness and cider (both RMB 30). They even have a drop of Aussie wine (RMB 35 per glass). It wouldn’t be advisable to bring a big birthday bash to The Minibar (unless you only had three friends), but it’s certainly worth a wee look. Paul Ryding

Also try: 12SQM, Cellar Door photo: mitchell pe masilun mitchell photo:

47 August 2013 COCKTAIL PROFILER

ocal brewers 京A are now operating out of The Big craft a mean drink. To prove the point, Kutil invited four Smoke Bistro, but the restaurant’s manager, Gordon able-bodied drinkers over for an afternoon of cocktail LKutil, remains justifiably proud of his own ability to creation.

COLIN Interesting fact: Colin once got himself locked out of his apartment while preparing to catch a flight home. Colin made a death-defying jump to his own 19th-floor balcony, and lived.

The resulting drink: Served: In a Martini The Runaway glass, with a cherry Ingredients: garnish. 40ml Kettle One vodka 10ml triple sec “If I had to make that jump 20ml blood orange again, I’d need one of these juice for Dutch courage.” photos: mitchell pe masilun 1tsp shredded ginger

Every month we ask one of the city’s expert mixologists To have one of Beijing’s best bartenders create a drink to profile a selection of Beijingers based on a single especially for you, email us at [email protected] snapshot and a single fact. with a photo and an interesting fact about yourself.

48 August 2013 COCKTAIL PROFILER

LOUISE Interesting fact: Louise can both calve a cow and drive a tractor, though never has at the same time.

The resulting drink: Basil The Cow Calver Mint Ingredients: 60ml Jack Daniels Served: In a mason jar Two dashes of Angos- with ice and a slice of tura bitters lemon. 10ml honey Pinch of brown sugar “Calving is a bloody Fresh lemonade mess, but this is a bloody Fresh iced tea delight!”

GAVIN Interesting fact: Gavin once lived in a Mini Cooper for two weeks, sur- viving by selling stolen magazines.

The resulting drink: 30ml cucumber juice The Italian Job Ingredients: Served: In a pint glass 30ml tequila rimmed with cayenne 15ml tequila infused pepper and lime, with with pineapple and chilli a straw. pepper 10ml triple sec “This would ‘blow the 20ml orange juice bloody doors off’ – and 15ml fresh lime juice take your head with it!”

ERIN Interesting fact: Erin once hid under a table to enjoy a cigarette in defiance of the ban on smoking in public places in Ireland. Since smoke rises, she was promptly caught.

The resulting drink: Served: In an Old Sin City Fashioned glass, with ice. Ingredients: 30ml Jim Beam “It’s lovely – my favorite of 30ml Great King Scotch them all. The devil gets all 10ml Disaronno the best drinks!” 10ml lavender syrup Mixed berries

49 August 2013 Things to do, places to be, stuff to try

What could this possibly become? p59.

GOTRANSFORMERS // BIKES // BEACHWEAR // APOLOGIES photo: courtesy of the organizer

Watch the TAO Dance Theater China premiere at the NCPA (Aug 3-4)

50 August 2013 Inspect-a-gadget

ATP Photofinder pro Activate the Photo Finder while taking pictures with your digital camera. Insert your memory card into the Photo Finder’s card slot, and the GPS data will be synchronized and added to all the pictures on the card. photofinder.atpinc.com RMB 900 Sony DEV-50 Recording BinocularS With 0.8-25X zoom ratio (36.3-2,007mm 35mm equivalent), this compact gadget not only lets you observe objects far away clearly, but also captures 24MP stills and full HD video in both 2D and 3D. www.sony.com.cn RMB 13,980 Trip Out gear up for the great wall by Joey Guo

Quik Pod Smartphone This cool extendable tool lets you capture your own pictures and video without having to ask strangers or getting funny distortions. The adapter Ultimate Ears BOOM works with all smartphones. Wireless Speaker Victorinox Bike Tool www.quikpod.com In case you’re in the mood for a A must-have accessory for RMB 210 party on the Great Wall, this speaker cyclists. This gadget comes with lets you share music on iOS devices an L-wrench, eight commonly with impressively big sound for its used bits, and a pair of plastic tire compact size. Its water bottle shape levers. Stash one in a backpack fits comfortably in your hand, and alongside a tire repair kit and it can be hung from just about mini-pump, and stop worrying anything. You can even pair two UE about tool problems during a BOOM speakers together to double bike trip. the volume. www.victorinox.com www.ultimateears.com RMB 400 RMB 1,500

51 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops Fit For a Wing wing fung bicycle company 88-8 Guangqumennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (139 1178 0417) 东城区广渠门内大街88-8 300m from Ciqikou station (Line 5)

oseph, the Hong Kong manager manning the counter place feel more like an art gallery than a bike shop. On at Wing Fung Bicycle Company, compares buying one wall, a single road bike frame hangs from a Cycloc Ja bicycle to buying a coat. Everyone has their own hook that looks like a small trash can turned on its side, style, color and feature preferences, but there is one thing a feat of modern industrial design. The opposite wall is a everyone will agree on: the coat must fit properly. showcase for Moulton small wheel, or foldable, bikes, in Before dropping RMB 44,800 (that’s the starting price glistening stainless steel. – your dream machine could be over RMB 100,000) for A beefy mannequin featuring Swiss Compressport gear a custom bike, Wing Fung will be sure the fit is precise. and saddles are hung as meticulously as Picassos. But they They are the only bicycle fitters in China certified by Retül also have a laid back approach to more casual riders. Can University – considered the gold standard of bike fitting – riders bring their own bikes in for servicing? “Why not?” a process that involves electric sensors and a training bike Joseph said. Can the curious come in for a fitting without photo: sui to analyze your exact movements and riding position. purchasing a bike? Again, “why not?” (although the three The polished floors and dramatic lighting make the to four-hour process costs RMB 3,000).

52 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops

Road, mountain, cyclocross and fixed-gear bikes are all available in a variety of materials, from carbon fiber or titanium to bamboo. Joseph assures me that the bamboo is impressively strong. Why you do think construction workers use it for scaffolding? A few accessories are also available. Wing Fung plans to offer monthly rides outside the city once the weather clears up, but for now, Wing Fung is the place to go if you want to step up your bike game. And, really, why not? Allison Reibel

Also try: Natooke, Serk

53 August 2013 WHRareAT’S NE WWears Venues & shops nostalgia Daily 11am-11pm. 161 Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (189 1053 7410) 东城区安定门内大街161号

500m south of Andingmen station (Line 2) photo: mitchell pe masilun

54 August 2013 WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops ld is nothing new in Beijing’s style scene. In April, Chen Yi Lin opened Nostalgia, a shop that’s not just Oabout wearing old-school frocks, but learning how to edit them. Located on Andingmennei Dajie, far enough away from the saturated Gulou streets that it stands out despite its narrow entryway, Nostalgia is spacious enough for not only one of the largest selections of vintage wear in Beijing, but also a project space in the back. Chen and her business partner Er Duo Liang aim to offer fellow vintage fiends a one-stop shop for customized tailoring, editing workshops, clothing swaps and even the occasional party. You know this city’s underground fashion scene is getting shaken up when the bar comes to the clothing store instead of the other way around. The owners collaborated with Dragon House Vintage on Gulou Dongdajie for some of the items in their space, so expect to find their signature ’80s nylon ski jackets, large winter coat selection and special discounts on items, including a section of out-of-season clothing for RMB 50. Customers who spend at least RMB 2,000 in one purchase are eligible to become VIPs and receive a ten percent discount on any item in the store. It’s a pretty good deal, considering that most of Nostalgia’s stock is imported from France and the UK, with a selection of shoes from Italy. If you’ve never tried to pull off vintage clothing before, Chen is often on hand at the shop and can give style and pairing suggestions. One look at her own outfits is enough to take her word. Inspired by Bu Kewen, a stylist for Chinese celebrities like Fan Bingbing, Chen is all about creativity. “I only wear basics, or underwear, from fast fashion brands,” she admits. “My outfits are always my own work or vintage clothing.” Jessica Rapp

Also try: Dragon House Vintage, Mega Mega Vintage

55 August 2013 feature

A five-meter-tall Transformer is somewhere near Xizhimen by Nick Richards ransform and roll out your inner geek. Cybertron and weapons like planes, ambulances and guns. Con 2013 will arrive in Beijing this month. Sci-fi I can remember bending the Transformers’ joints, pull- nerds, toy collectors and comic book fiends are ing out their heads and folding out their wings. Each prepping for an epic convention celebrating character was a puzzle and the reward for solving the oneT of our favorite childhood memories, now cinematic puzzle wasn’t quite like the matching colors on a Rubik’s blockbusters: Transformers. Cube. It was cool to make cars transform into robots and Having started in the mid-1980s as a small toy series vice-versa. picked up by Japanese brand Hasbro – the same toy The sound of crashing plastic would fill my living room distributors behind G.I. Joe – these robots carry a lot of as my friends waged warfare on each other’s collections. character and pulse with imagination. The hook for the We screamed “Neeoooww! Autobots roll out.” Crash! There kids was the robots’ ability to fold into different vehicles would be a few headless Decepticons before my father shooed us away. Soon after Hasbro picked up the toy line, a back- story was created and timeless characters like Optimus Prime, leader of the Autobots, and Megatron of the evil Deceptions were brought to life on screen and in books. The first episode of The Transformers cartoon series aired in 1984 and opens with the Autobots, fleeing their home planet of Cybertron to seek new energy sources on Earth. They fall under attack from the Decepticons and war ensues. For decades following, the story was spun into comic books, animated movies, new characters, new generations, plot lines and TV shows. In 2007, Transformers cul- minated in a highly successful live action film series directed by Michael Bay and produced by Steven Spielberg. Transformers’ Hollywood success is now seeping into China’s hyperactive entertainment reactor. The third film, Dark Side of the Moon broke box-office records

56 August 2013 feature here with its number one title only recently replaced by Iron Man 3, which To prepare for this Beijing Transformer invasion, worked hard to win over audienc- here are a few key characters translated into es with Chinese elements. To stay Chinese: competitive, Transformers 4 producers are making China the main focus of Autobots 汽车人 the new film. Qìchē rén Beijing locations the Bird’s Nest, Pangu Plaza and the Water Cube will be shot in the fourth Transformers film, Optimus Prime though, as you might have seen on Leader of the Autobots theBeijinger.com, not destroyed. This Alternate Mode: 1984 summer, Chinese actors will be selected on Freightliner Semi Truck reality TV to play in the film alongside local star 擎天柱 Li Bingbing. Qíng tiān zhù If that’s not reason enough to be excited by these robots coming to Beijing, imagine a five-meter-tall Trans- Ratchet former greeting you at The China Millennium Monument, Autobot Medic plus extensive design workshops, cartoon exhibitions and Alternate Mode: 1979 Nissan panel discussions with top Transformers designers. Ambulance While the highlights of this year’s convention 救护车 have not been released, online forums are already buzzing with rumors of exclusive platinum series toys and Jiùhù chē special-edition box sets being available for purchase. We can also expect similarities to the first China Cybertron Bumblebee Con, held in Shanghai in 2010 which featured drawing Autobot Soldier workshops, video game demonstrations, film and cartoon Alternate Mode: VW Beetle screenings, 3-D action figure dioramas and even competi- 大黄蜂 tions to see who can transform their toys the fastest. And let’s not forget, this is a global convention, Transformers Dà huángfēng geeks from all corners of the Earth are en route to the capital for this “momen-tron-us“ occasion. Decepticons 霸天虎 Bà tiān hǔ The Cybertron Con 2013 convention takes places at The China Millennium Monument from Aug 15-18 and related exhibitions will continue until Oct 14. Megatron Visit the Beijinger website for full event and directory Leader of the Decepticons listings. Alternate Mode: Walther P-38 威震天 Wēi zhèn tiān

Shockwave Decepticon General Alternate Mode: Laser Cannon 震荡波 Zhèndàng bō

57 August 2013 PAGE TURNERS the hard-hitting exposes, or the sprawling long-form panorama. Rather, Moxley made his name “chasing the rabbit down the rabbit hole,” and sending up the everyday absurdities of the China expat life itself, including writing about being a “Rent a White Guy,” and trying to make it in Chollywood – the Chinese film industry. Detailing Moxley’s first disastrous year at China Daily, Apologies’ opening chapters linger as they try to position the story of his “quarter-life crisis” and how, as the global economic downturn effectively maroons him in China, he gradually overcomes his isolation and begins to pursue his dream of being an international journalist. The details are sluggish, self-absorbed and scattered with the usual clichés: amazement at traffic jams, and masses of “pyjamaed” school children; drinking in dubious, gangster- fronted hell-holes; and making laughable comparisons between Beijing’s expat set and the Lost Generation of 1920’s Paris. But, for all the narcissism, Moxley comes across as perfectly affable. In fact, one can’t help feel a certain warmth for him. It is as though he were some kind of wayward brother. He beguiles you with stories of a life that can seem, at times, completely unbelievable and oddly blessed. When his luck seems to have turned, and he starts to find himself opportunity after opportunity – scouting out sex-trafficking stories in Mongolia, and African labor stories in Guangzhou, an affiliate pride goes along with that. The endearment to him, and his career, is genuine. Apology Moxley’s affability is also the major problem with Apologies. The writer tries so hard to ingratiate the reader Rejected into his life and, more specifically, his motivations for Apologies to My Censor is pages of eventually shunning socially-conscious journalism in missed opportunity favor of what he calls the more expat-centered “Chinese Neverland” stories. The book can often seem like more of by Nick Skidmore a veiled apology to himself, and his reader, and what he had hoped to realize here in China. When Moxley allows itch Moxley, as he likes to remind his reader, is for long passages laying out how he gave into “this photo- something of a celebrity in Beijing’s expat circles. shoot” or that “television appearance,” instead of following MAn aspiring journalist who found himself taking up on his earlier attempts at investigative journalism, the a job with China Daily in the run up to the 2008 Olympics, unintended effect often verges on excruciating. the trajectory of Moxley’s transition from state-owned For would-be journalists, the first book is a something media press lackey to freelance writer for publications of a milestone. Yet, for Moxley, this first book proves like Time and The Atlantic, is one that many dream of merely a preening exercise. An undoubtedly entertain- emulating. This transition rather neatly forms the subject ing, but disappointingly narrow reflection on a relatively of his first book Apologies to My Censor. unremarkable few years swept up in expat circles that is For those unfamiliar, the fact that Moxley’s book focuses ultimately a squandered opportunity. solely on his own personal ups and downs, and not those of the 1.3 billion people around him, should give some Apologies to My Censor is available for purchase at The indication of the caliber of Moxley’s journalism. His is not Bookworm.

58 August 2013 GET THE LOOK 2

1 3

Short Changed 7 by Jessica Rapp 4

6 5

1 Random Ransom inches and you’re styling Not the most unusual 6 Lounging Linen These look like a ransom for the beach. beach short pattern, but A rare find among its note sprinkled with Union that isn’t the worst thing, flimsy fabric counterparts, flags. With phrases like “I’m 3 End-rear-ing is it? a pair like these will keep not sure why, but perhaps We’re not sure what the your backside comfort- I’m descended from roy- Korean says, but “HOT. 5 Soul Mania able all summer long. alty,” it’s taking language COM” certainly makes this Not only are they a to a whole new level. pair twerk-worthy. soulful explosion of color, 7 Be a Geodude this pair has a stamp of Get in on the geometric 2 Purple Paradise 4 Nothing But(t) Bob Marley in the crotch. print craze with a Ladies, hem these a few Scorpions prismatic pair like this.

on’t come up short this summer and head into or two. Never mind that the tags generally indicate that autumn without having tried out a pair of these the shorts are XXXL, despite their snug elastic waistbands, Dstreet-side, China-style board shorts. You’ve or that the lack of lining in the thin polyester means they probably seen them dangling outside shops boasting could only survive a few wears. A quick trip to the tailor 20-year-old sport apparel. That quickly scrawled RMB 10 and a smidgeon of bravery is all you need to pull off this

photos: S ui photos: sign dangling overhead is a good reason to snatch a pair timeless Beijing summer trend.

59 August 2013 GIVEAWAYS WAY OUT WEST RMB More Saturday Sense(s) 1,000

he weekend just got a little longer. The Westin Beijing Financial Street is introducing the TMemorable Moments Saturday Brunch at Senses Signature Restaurant. Featuring Western and Chinese breakfast buffets with free-flow of fresh juices and Taiwan bubble tea, it’s one more reason to go west during the weekend. RMB To win a RMB 1,000 voucher for the brunch, send 1,000 THIRD RING RAVIOLI us the correct answer to this question: On what Blues, Cheese and More other weekend day does The Westin Beijing ne might not think of a music venue as an Financial Street serve brunch? Email your answer to automatic choice for quality Italian food, but [email protected] before August 15. Be sure to in- Othat’s what seems to be happening at Café CD clude your name and phone number. Good luck! Blues and their new restaurant, Ravioli Factory. It’s all about pasta from Italy’s Apennine Peninsula, made with imported ingredients. To win a RMB 1,000 voucher, answer this one simple question: In what country was pasta invented? Email your answer to [email protected] before August 15. And remember to include your contact name and phone number. Good luck!

RMB JUST SAY JA 1,000 Oktoberfest in September

ime to send your lederhosen to the cleaners, it’s almost time for Oktoberfest again. The Crowne Plaza Beijing TPark View Wuzhou gets the party started September 6-15, complete with chicken dances, German bands, grilled sausages, pork knuckle, and of course, beer. To win a RMB 1,000 voucher for this Beijing take on RMB a Bavarian festival, there’s just one question to answer: 1,000 FISHING TRIP What German city is most famous for its annual Ritan Watering Hole Oktoberfest celebration? Email your answer to us at new nightlife entrant to the Ritan Park area, [email protected] before August 15, and don’t leave perhaps known best for establishments opened out your name and phone number in all the excitement. Aby or attracting our Russian and Mongolian Good luck! friends, Wahoo is one of those rare places that features not only food, drink, music and live performances, but also …fishing. Hey, why not? To win a RMB 1,000 voucher to try some fishing and food, you only need to supply the answer to this simple question: What is a wahoo? Email your answer to win@ thebeijinger.com before August 15. If you don’t include your name and phone number, we can’t declare you the winner, so don’t forget. Good luck!

60 August 2013 61 August 2013 Things to do, places to be, stuff to try

“Even in the ‘70s I think wearing this would have been a sin.” See p63 “I just want to make movies that make women happy." See p65 “That dude turns water into wine. Babe magnet.” See p67 “I think I cried. I lost that date. ” See p69 MEETJIN YIMENG // JAPANDROIDS // MICHAEL OHLSSON // STEPHEN LEONELLI Things you should know about Pet Shop Boys … They are the fourth biggest-selling dance act They have in the world – trailing only They are the most sold over 70 Madonna, Michael Jackson successful duo in million albums and Donna Summer UK music history worldwide

They have had 40 singles in the UK Top 20 They have achieved eight platinum, two gold and four silver albums in the UK alone

See Pet Shop Boys on Aug 22 at MasterCard Center. Visit www.thebeijinger.com for info.

62 August 2013 Uniformity Stephen Leonelli Development & Operations Director, Beijing LGBT Center

Tell us a story about wearing a uniform somewhere like your knees were bent even when straight, resulting where you felt out of place. in a point deduction. So I very diligently made my legs Once for a presentation at a local elementary school in straight as could be. I’d sit with my legs stretched out and Virginia, I was dressed in “traditional” Chinese clothing – a walk like a robot. The whole ensemble made me want to lot of bright yellows and reds in the cheap polyester stuff. transform into a gymnast with impeccable leg posture. I looked like one of those total white-boy China nerds. Ultimately, though, the judge and my teammates just My classmate and I ended up at McDonald’s afterwards, thought I had sh*t myself. and the staff behind the register looked really disgusted with us. It was one of those moments where I could tell Which uniform did you resent wearing the most? he wanted to ask but the line manager must have been I really hated wearing the pads, helmet, and mouth guard floating nearby. for lacrosse. Given that, no matter what, my usual strategy for lacrosse was to just run up and down the sidelines, I Did you ruin any of these uniforms? How? rarely actually came into contact with anyone. Putting on When I was a campus bus driver in university, I accidentally all the gear seemed like a waste to me, really. snagged and tore my light blue uniform shirt. At the time I thought I could make it artistic or something, so I used Which uniform would be considered the least fash- scissors to cut a whole bunch of different tears in the ionable? shirt. The result was a bunch of holes that made it look When I was ten years old, my best guy friend and I joined a essentially like rags. dance team along with ten girls. We all wore neon orange bellbottoms and a tie-dye T-shirt with sequins. Someone Did you ever feel transformed by wearing any of had a pink feather boa. Even in the ‘70s I think wearing these uniforms? If so, which ones? this would have been a sin. When I was younger, I did competitive gymnastics. Our coach warned us never to bend our knees for too long Put on your beachwear and summer uniforms for the Beijing while wearing the bright red stirrups that went over our LGBT Center’s third annual fundraiser, “One Summer Night in

photo: courtesy of S tephen Leone ll i courtesy photo: white leotards; the sensitive material could make it look Beijing,” at Alfa on Aug 24.

63 August 2013 feature

Fan bingbing (right) gives jin yimeng a kiss

Box Office Surprise Writer/Director Jin Yimeng is finding an audience with her romantic comedies by Steven Schwankert

an Bingbing can’t find a man? Sounds hard to the maturity of the main characters, and Jin’s own sen- believe, but the conceit carries in the latest rom- sibilities when she created them. “Sophie’s Revenge was a com from director and screenwriter Jin Yimeng, script I wrote ten years when I was still in the US, I was who reasserts her box office muscle with the really just a girl then and the character in the film was also Frelease of One Night Surprise (Yi Ye Jing Xi), this month, just just a girl. Fan’s character [in One Night Surprise] is older, in time for Chinese Valentine’s Day on August 13. more experienced; she’s had a much wider experience of The film follows Fan, a white-collar manager who life.” Jin herself doesn’t face Fan’s cinematic travails, either: has succeeded in business but not in love, through her she’s happily married. encounters with three handsome men, played by Daniel Fan’s star continues to rise, with One Night Surprise Henney, Arif Rahman (Li Zhiting), and Jiang Jingfu. giving her a relatively rare opportunity to be the film’s One Night Surprise is Fan’s second comedy with Jin, lead, not just its lead actress. She was recently named having appeared in her debut effort, Sophie’s Revenge China’s top celebrity in a Forbes magazine list, and The (Fei Chang Wan Mei), which also starred Zhang Ziyi. The Hollywood Reporter honored her as their International movie put Jin in an elite group – Chinese directors whose Artist of the Year at May’s Cannes Film Festival. After a films have grossed over RMB 100 million at the domestic cameo in Iron Man 3, and recently shot scenes for X-Men: box office. Although Fan’s leading-lady looks and screen Days of Future Past, in which she appears as Blink, and is photo:s courtesy of Jin yimeng presence usually lead her away from comic roles, she’ll do set to star in the next Jackie Chan film. Still, one of her best them on one condition: “I’m only going to do comedies known performances was her indie turn in Lost in Beijing, if they’re Jin’s,” she declared, saying at a press launch for in which she plays a foot massage attendant abused by the film that the director understands women and knows the store’s owner. how to write for them. Jin believes that lack of diversity gives her films appeal Two of the big differences between the films relate to to Fan and the other top actresses with whom she was

64 August 2013 feature worked, including Zhang Ziyi and Yao Chen. “She’s very talented, and she’s desperately looking for different genre material and specifically for lead female roles.” Actresses in China are still limited by the material that is offered to them. “When there are no great characters, they can’t really unleash themselves. For female actors especially, having characters written specifically for them helps them,” Jin said. “The romantic comedy is well developed in Hollywood but not here, I want to bring that to China,” Jin said. “We don’t have many genre films at all – horror, thrillers, detective stories, teenage movies. I feel like the industry only really started [branching out] since 2009,” Jin said. The problem is not just the material, but those creating it. “Most screenplays in China are still written by novelists or by television writers, not by people who are writing specifically for film.” Describing whether she chose her male leads based on looks or talent, Jin said, “There are so many movies for men in China, I just want to make movies that make women happy.” Fan was a bit more circumspect about the men that appear in the film. “I expect all my collaborators to be intelligent and wise,” she said, not specifying any desired physical attributes. Jin said she will continue to write comedies, but wants to move on to larger fare. “I want them to be bigger, maybe fantasy comedies,” she said, with more fanciful elements. She would also consider directing material not her own. “I would love to have a great script written for me [to direct]. I get scripts all the time, but in the end it would take more time to rewrite them than to write something original,” Jin said.

One Night Surprise opens in August at cinemas around Beijing.

Jin on the set of "one night surprise"

65 August 2013 Bookshelf Qi Zhai Yoga Instructor

The book on my shelf with the most sentimental value type. I don’t know if that type exists anymore! to me is A Moment in Peking by Lin Yutang which I read when I was a homesick teenager living away from my big The last book I read has a slightly embarrassing title, but extended family in China. There’s a certain sentimentality interesting content, It’s a Guy Thing: An Owner’s Manual. to Chinese literature – and culture – that is hard to trans- late, which a truly bilingual writer like Lin can capture well. The book I wish I hadn’t read is every German book I’d recommend it to anyone who wants to understand on grammar. I really protest the standard introductory Chinese history, culture, and society through fiction. chapter assertion that “German is just like English.” It’s not!

In the bathroom I read Vanity Fair magazine. A The book I’d like to see adapted as a film or TV show guilty habit of “liberal” (in an American political sense) is A Moment in Peking. I’m starting to sound like a tape intellectuals? recorder, but I love Chinese period dramas. Imagine lush colorful cinematography a la Zhang Yimou’s style plus cos- The book that changed my young life was whatever my tumes like in Wong Kar Wai’s films. That would be epic. first English textbook was. The ABCs? And the book that changed my adult life was A New Earth by Eckhart Tolle. The books I’m saving for old age – well, not necessar- ily old age, but for a more mentally mature age – are the The character in a book who I’d like to be is Little Tiger, Indian epics, which are also important to yoga philoso- who often gets carried around (physically and meta- phy, like Bhagavad Gita, Ramayana, and Mahabarata. It’ll photo: C physically) by Little Bear in the German children’s stories definitely take me some years (maybe decades?) to learn by Janosch. Bear never gets sick. He brings home the fish enough Sanskrit to read the originals. ourtesy of Qi Zhai and Liu Jiang and he cooks dinner. Tiger just has to gather mushrooms in the forest. The fictional “world” I would most like to be a part of is the little forest house with a lake view in Janosch’s Oh, The character in a book I’ve had a crush on … oh, I wie schoen ist Panama! forget his name now but one of the male protagonists from A Moment in Peking. A real gentle, kind, and scholarly Catch one of Qi’s classes at Yoga Yard this month.

66 August 2013 A Drink with Michael Ohlsson Owner of DADA

Who would you most like to go out drinking with? Jesus Christ. That dude turns water into wine. Babe magnet. Perfect wingman. Plus he’d have some interesting stories.

If you could only imbibe one drink for the rest of your life, what would it be? Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. My favorite California beer. You can’t get it in China. We’ve asked, they said not until the quality control gets better here. Ouch.

How old were you when you started drinking? Hmm, on a regular basis, to get drunk, I guess 15. It probably wasn’t until I was 21 that I started drinking more for taste, than just a means to an end getting drunk.

We’re at the bar - what are you having? I’m very moody with my drink of choice. Depends on the weather, the company, the music. I never have beer or tall drinks after dinner. Never stout beer in hot weather. Red wine only with food. Lately I’ve been drinking our cran- Herb Caen Martini. Herb was an old newspaper writer in berry mojitos, but with vodka instead of rum. We use real San Francisco and famously snobby about his martinis. My fresh cranberries, which is pretty lofty for a dive bar. grandfather made them right. Blue cheese stuffed olives, vodka not gin, and a splash of olive juice, keep it dirty. Tell us about the last time you were drunk. I think the night we had DJ Zinc playing at Dada. I walked What kind of drink are you? him back to the hotel after his gig and was talking all sorts Pinot Noir – surprising, mysterious and complex, each sip of nonsense, bawdy tales, kind of embarrassing, then fell seems a little bit different, but still easy drinking. off my bike on Nanluogu Xiang on the way back to the bar, in front of a group of hot chicks. It was obvious that What’s your golden rule of drinking? I was watching them, not the road. I’m kind of a traditionalist. I like the etiquette of having rounds with friends and taking turns paying for them. And What’s the dumbest thing you’ve done while intoxi- cheers only once, not every sip, that’s annoying. cated? I puked on Richard Branson, just a few hours after getting What are your secret watering holes? hired by Virgin. I went into the office the next day real I actually really like going to anonymous, generic sheepish, “eh, do I still have the job?” hotel bars, especially with a view of the city. Not hip hotels. Places you know you won’t run into anyone you Where’s the dumbest place you’ve gone drinking? know, there are zero expectations, and you can sort of Full Moon Party in Thailand. Never again. pretend you’re any place in the world.

You’re hosting a cocktail party what are you mak- Celebrate Dada’s one-year anniversary with Michael on ing? photo: courtesy of M ichae l O h sson courtesy photo: Aug 17.

67 August 2013 Q&A

JAPANDROIDS DOWN TO EARTH AND NOT JAPANESE

You guys are on tour a lot. How do you keep your- to do or what to see while I’m there. People should email self entertained on the road? us at [email protected] and tell us what to see! Being on the road is always entertaining. Playing shows is our favorite thing to do, and we are always in a new city Your song “The House That Heaven Built” has been that we have a chance to explore for a day or two. It’s a used as the Vancouver Canucks’ entrance song. lot harder finding ways to be entertained at home, since How does that feel? there isn’t anything new for us there anymore. I’m not really a big sports fan, but at the same time everybody in Canada knows hockey. So having our song Do you get homesick? as the Canucks’ song for a little while was pretty surreal, At certain points you get tired, and it would be nice to and all our friends and family were very proud and excited sleep in your own bed and see your friends and loved for us. ones. But at the same time, we both know how lucky we are to have the opportunity to travel all over the world Your last album, Celebration Rock, made several playing our music and we wouldn’t trade this for anything “Album of the Year” lists. What’s your favorite album in the world. of 2013 so far? I’ve mostly been listening to older stuff this year. The How much do you get to see of the cities you play only new records I’ve been listening to regularly are Run photo: courtesy of A ndy C in? Is there anything in Beijing you’re looking for- the Jewels’ self-titled record, and Besnard Lakes’ Until in ward to doing? Excess, Imperceptible UFO. Run the Jewels is a great hip-hop It depends on how the tour is scheduled. Sometimes you record. Until in Excess, Imperceptible UFO is a lush, beautiful show up, play the show, and leave the next day without record I listen to when I need to block out the noise of seeing anything. But if you’re lucky, you have a day off so our sound guy Lewis’ snoring. you try and see as much as you can. We actually have a o ll ins day off in Beijing, which is amazing! I have no idea what See Japandroids play live at MAO Livehouse on Aug 23.

68 August 2013 screentime Stefen Chow Photographer

In the biopic of your life, which scene should be filmed in slow motion? It must be when I was 21. I had the girl, I didn’t have responsibilities as an undergraduate, pursuing dreams was the ideal, and I had the liver to try every alcohol out there. Slow-mo, all the way.

Which character from TV/film would you most like to be? I always feel for Stewie from Family Guy. I am not really a baby with a big brain, but I guess we are close.

What TV show or movie did you once love but now think is rubbish? Vertical Limit. It was a film about mountaineering in 2000. When I first watched it, I was literally like, “Wow.” Mountaineering is more exciting than Mission Impossible. I then started climbing mountains and I realized the only thing real about the movie was that too many mountain- eers behave like heroes. Oh, and Free Willy. And Jaws. when there is a combination of aesthetics and storyline What TV show or movie did you have to be coerced that is extremely compelling. I didn’t grow up during the into watching but now readily admit that you love? black and white silent film era so I guess this invoked the Modern Family. I was introduced to it by my wife who went hippie side of me. absolutely bonkers for it, and I was lukewarm to it at first. Now it is a must-watch every time I get on a plane. What was the first movie that you saw with a date? Was it Titanic? I think I cried. I lost that date. What’s your favorite film musical? Chicago! I think it was the first musical that was just more What movie first made you say: “Wow, how did they powerful because of the elaborate sets, big stars and sing- do that?” ing. I also watched the Broadway version in New York. Lord of the Rings. The first one. I was in New Zealand in 2000 and I was training to be a mountaineer, and my What movie are you sick of people saying to you: instructors who told me they worked on the movie and “What?! You haven’t seen it?” said the scenes in the misty mountains were shot where Too many. Especially with China’s rules limiting foreign we were training on Mount Cook. I remembered the ter- films each year, I will go back home and miss all the great, rain to be really rough. How did they do it with all those slightly indie movies. I watched Avatar on opening day in raggy clothes and act on a real mountain?! Beijing – six months after it opened worldwide, and they opened the scene speaking Chinese. And the rest of the Who is the best cartoon dog? three hours. The Navi too. I was scarred for life. Dogbert from Dilbert! He is a badass. Corporate evils in the form of cutesy dogs rock the world. What is the slowest paced movie you still enjoyed? I really enjoyed The Artist, the 2011 French black and white Catch Stefen Chow’s ongoing photo essay The Poverty Line at www.thepovertyline.net. photo: courtesy of S tefen C how courtesy photo: silent film that won quite a few Oscars. I always enjoy it

69 August 2013 ECOLOGY“NO WATER, NO LIFE. NO BLUE, NO GREEN.” – DR. SYLVIA EARLE photo: Courtesy of William L indesay

The sun rises over a spectacular section of Great Wall near Beijing.

70 August 2013 Defender of the Great Wall William Lindesay Sees “Wilderness That Needs Protection” By Steven Schwankert

y first encounter with William now not just as protecting the world’s longest artifact, Lindesay, OBE, was at a Great Wall clean- but backing environmental protection for the land around up in Jinshanling, on October 1, 1998. the Wall also. Sponsored on this occasion by the Great Lindesay was no stranger to the great outdoors WallM Sheraton Hotel, about 40 Chinese and foreign citizens before he made the acquaintance of the Great Wall. A of Beijing joined Lindesay for this jaunt out to one of the long-distance runner in his native England, the idea Wall’s wilder, but more easily accessible sections. The day’s to conquer the Great Wall came during a job with his event had two simple goals: remove trash left behind brother along more familiar terrain, Hadrian’s Wall on the by inconsiderate visitors, and place 15 to 20 heavy-duty border with Scotland. That dream never died, and on his garbage cans donated by the hotel, so that in the future, third try in 1987, Lindesay completed his journey from hikers would at least have a choice of where to throw Jiayuguan to Shanhaiguan. It wasn’t the end; it was only their waste. the beginning. What most of us found on the Wall was shocking: Aside Shortly after completing the walk, Lindesay moved to from mounds of cigarette butts, lunch wrappers, and Beijing. In his early years, he spent his time at the Xinhua discarded bottles, was obvious evidence that this Wonder News Agency, leaving the office on Friday afternoons, of the World had been used not just as a garbage can, cycling about 100 kilometers to the Wall, where he would but as a toilet. Even on an early autumn day, the stench camp and hike until Sunday afternoon and it was time to in places was overpowering. ride back into town. “Jinshanling is one of the best-kept sections within a “I’ve always been here for the Wall,” Lindesay said, now stone’s throw of Beijing,” Lindesay said, “But Juyongguan splitting his time not between an office and the Wall, but [close to the Badaling section] is a national disgrace,” between writing and photographing numerous books describing the smell of “ammonia” that greets hikers on on the Wall, making documentary films about it, running any given day. The Barracks, a village primary school that now serves as For Lindesay, preserving the Wall isn’t just about a courtyard hotel with dramatic views and access to the protecting the bricks. Having coined the term “Wild Wall,” Great Wall, and his conservation work. That’s in addition he said: “There are thousands of kilometers of Wild Wall. to being a husband to his wife Wu Qi, and father of two It is wilderness that needs protection,” seeing his work sons, James and Thomas. photo: Courtesy of William L indesay William of Courtesy photo:

71 August 2013 Lindesay’s organization, International Friends of the first noticed wall-like structures in southern Mongolia, Great Wall, seeks to keep the Wall in the public spotlight. Lindesay led an expedition, along with Mongolian “I can’t save the Wall,” he said. “All I can do is get some academic Professor Baasan Tudevin, to an area of the things rolling.” southern Gobi desert about 80 kilometers north of the One of his most recent projects demonstrated just how border with China. There he discovered what satellite and much the Wall requires conservation at every level – from historical evidence had suggested: a rammed earth wall citizens and government alike. His 2007 book, The Great that also contained local scrub brush. “From maps, we Wall Revisited: From the Jade Gate to the Old Dragon’s Head, couldn’t tell that the wall contained wood, and large was partly inspired by a missing tower. William Geil, an quantities of wood at that,” he said. Lindesay returned to American missionary, may be the first person – certainly Mongolia in 2012 and will go again this year to look at the first foreigner – to travel the entire length of the Great possible Mongolian-built walls in other sections of the Wall, having completed the feat in 1908, taking many pho- country. tographs along the way, and publishing his own book, The As for protecting China’s Wall, he said there is no single Great Wall of China. A photo shows Geil sitting on a tower answer. “Do we protect it section by section, or valley near Luowenyu in Hebei Province. Lindesay knew the area by valley?” Lindesay acknowledged that while national- and happened to have a photograph of himself hiking level policies can go a long way, governance in China is there. The biggest difference: the tower was now gone. ultimately local. The picture spurred Lindesay to revisit and re-photograph “Tourism is one of the top threats to the Wall,” many of the places documented by Geil, to see how they he said. His greatest fear is the “Badalingization” of had changed in the century that had passed in between, the Wall, an attempt to generate revenue for local and everything that has come with it: a population boom, communities by promoting mass tourism. The Wall is strong, war, earthquakes, and environmental change. but wasn’t built for that purpose. He pointed to a picture of “If the Chinese people need to know why the Great photographers standing on a tower.“Seventy photographers Wall needs preservation, they should look at this evidence,” at an average of 70 kilograms each. That’s five metric tons!” Lindesay said. His Wall work, and the scope of his conservation efforts, Learn more about William Lindesay and his Wild Wall now extends beyond China’s political borders. Having conservation efforts at www.wildwall.com. photo: Courtesy of james L indesay

72 August 2013 What are you planning to do?

OUREVENTS EDITORS PICK THE BEST OF THE MONTH upload your events at thebeijinger.com/events

find all venue info AT THEBEIJINGER.COM/DIRECTORY. please call venues ahead of time to confirm details.

pitbull AUG 28 – Miami rapper and producer descends on Beijing for the first time. The serial collaborator has worked with some of the biggest names in pop and performs as part of a world tour, promoting his latest release Global Warming, which is currently storming the charts and the dance floor. RMB 380-1,680. 8pm. Beijing Workers’ Gymnasium (400 882 1190)

73 August 2013 EVENTS

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1. Sophie Koh AUG 15 – Chanteuse and qualified optometrist Sophie Koh comes to Beijing to present her earthy blend of informed pop music to the People’s Republic. She is on her way to becoming a big name in Australia and soon the world. RMB 50. 8-11pm. Jianghu Bar (6401 5269)

2. The Color Run AUG 10 – Get your white T-shirts out again. The Color Run promises to be 3 the craziest, most colorful, five kilometer run of your life. Check out www. thecolorrun.com.cn for more details. RMB 160. 3.30pm. The Ninth China Garden Expo

3. One Summer Night in Beijing AUG 24 – Don your beachwear and support the good work of the Beijing LBGT Center in their third annual fundraiser with drinks, dancing and naturally, donations to the cause. RMB 40. 10pm-late. Alfa (6413 0086)

4. Roots & Shoots No Shark Fin Project AUG 8 – Say “bye” to the consumption of shark fin and help raise awareness for shark week. Support the fight for shark conservation by making your pledge not to eat shark fin soup. Free. 5.30-6pm. Sanlitun Soho (5878 8888)

5. Skip Skip Ben Ben, Bedstars and Dice AUG 17 – Come celebrate Taiwanese shoegaze starlet Benben’s 28th birthday, at School Bar. Let her wall of noise style guitar and angelic voic- 5 ing bring you to ecstasy, then drop you off into a void of maniacal despair. RMB 30. 9pm-midnight. School Bar (6402 8881)

74 August 2013 don’t miss DISCO NIGHTS Hotpot Party at Migas Featuring DJ Wordy and Soulspeak AUG 2 – Get ready to party with three dope DJ’s playing the freshest beats ranging across all genres of dance music. No fillers, no fat, no MSG, just good positive vibes, great people, tasteful music, and a night to get down. RMB 50. 10pm. Migas (5208 6061)

Bye Bye Disco Five-Year Anniversary AUG 3 – It’s been five years since these wacky dudes flooded Beijing with their sense of sleaze and decadent dance parties. Half a decade is a long time, and they still know how to throw a party. RMB 10. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)

Footprint: Who is the DJ? AUG 3 – Who is, Who is the DJ? Almost impossible to find out anything about this guy, but that is probably the point. He has a pretty deep catalogue, with the who’s who of Eu- ropean EDM; it will be worth checking out. RMB 100. 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)

The Detroit Series featuring Dave Spivey AUG 3 – This legendary Detroit DJ, has been at it since he was 13. Dave Spivey has developed a sound that is both soulful and eclectic, which draws from various genre’s including Techno, House, Disco and Funk. RMB 50.10pm. Migas (5208 6061)

DOT Records presents: Jonas Kopp AUG 10 – Few would dispute Jonas Kopp as being one of the most prominent and exciting figures to emerge from Argentina in recent years. An accomplished techno producer, in-demand remixer and versatile performer. Jonas has a unique sound that can’t be missed. RMB 100, RMB 50 (presale). 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)

Migas Terrace Anniversary Party Week- end AUG 16 & 17 – Featuring Lopazz and the Migas Allstars, this two-day event will be of epic proportions. Hang out on the deck with your favorite DJs and experience one of the best summer spots in all of its glory, before it’s too late. RMB 50. 10pm. Migas (5208 6061)

Dada One-Year Anniversary AUG 17 – The Gulou provocateurs of all things electronic and ecstatic, would like to thank Beijing for making their first year so incredible. Everyone is encouraged to dress in drag and party like the ladyboy you always knew you could be. Free. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)

Limonious and Daniel Savio AUG 23 – Recognized as the originators of the genre term “skwee,” this Swedish style of EDM combines chiptune leads with R&B or soul-like rhythms, overall rendering a stripped- down funky sound. Not to be missed. RMB 50. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)

Paul Taylor AUG 24 – Paul Taylor is a huge name in the Psytrance genre and along with Goa Productions expect a truly immersive, visually stimulating space where anyone and everyone can come and let their creativity run wild. RMB 90, RMB 50 (presale). 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)

75 August 2013 EVENTS

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1. Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour by Cirque Du Soleil AUG 8-11 – The Estate of Michael Jackson resurrect the King of Pop, in this inspirational adaptation of Michael Jackson’s discography. Visit the land of fantasy and wonder that created one of the most eccentric artists that ever lived. RMB 280-1280. 2.30pm, 7.30pm. MasterCard Center (6828 6386)

2.Comedy Club China Live Standup AUG 3 – Six local comedians bring you authentic live standup with a unique China twist. Entrance includes a free beer to get the laughs off to a giddy start. RMB 50. Time TBA. Taps (6415 6901)

3. Beijing Punk Festival AUG 24 – The Beijing Punk Festival celebrates its tenth anniversary. Bands on the lineup include Beijing punk heroes Mi San Dao, Hell City and The Autocratics from Japan. Price TBA. 2pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998)

4. White+, Chui Wan & Obladi Oblada AUG 10 – Beijing’s best dissonant rock groups light up XP. Featuring the dark psychedelia of Chui Wan, the repetitive driving blend of White+’s live delinquent electronica and new duo Obladi Oblada. RMB 60, RMB 50 (students). 9pm. XP (6404 9947)

5. Owl City AUG 21 – Owl City is a synthpop project created by Adam Young in his parents’ basement, with only his laptop and bad case of insomnia. Since 65 his breakthrough song “Fireflies,” he has toured with the likes of Maroon 5 and John Mayer. RMB 200-700. 8pm. MasterCard Center (6828 6386)

76 August 2013 EVENTS

6. Geng Xiaogang Art Solo Exhibition UNTIL AUG 23 – Geng’s dry brush paintings question the tension created by the development of information tech- nology and consumer society. He expresses a destination for mankind, based on Taoist philosophies rooted in spirit and nature. Free. XYZ Gallery (5762 3017)

7. Haze Out #3 (in the park) AUG 24 – A menagerie of vintage concepts come together, with this high school themed soirée, to bring you back to the innocence of youth, only to get degraded by the extreme party vibes that Haze is all to famous for. Contact [email protected] for more details. RMB 400 (no bus), RMB 500 (bus included). 3pm. Tianjin

8. From Amazon to Iguassu Photo Exhibition UNTIL AUG 18 – Chen Lusheng, artist, photographer and assistant curator of the National Museum of China shares a collection of breathtaking photos from his travels in Brazil. Free. Parkview Green Gallery. (5662 8888)

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77 August 2013 EVENTS

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1. the Beijinger 2013 Burger Festival be hosted by Chef Andreas Block and Brewer Tobias Palmer. AUG 17 – The Beijinger’s third annual Burger Cup culminates in RMB 300. 11am-3pm. Great Leap Brewpub (6416 6887) a live cook-off of the top eight burgers which the city’s read- ers voted for. Come for the beef and beer, stay for the music 4. Capital M Wine Talk: It’s Summertime, and good vibes. RMB 50 (includes one burger and one beer). It’s Rosé Time! 4-9pm. Beijing City International School (5820 5407) AUG 9 – Rosé: the most glamorous of all wines. Get your shine on as experts from ASC Fine Wines guide you through 2. Swiss National Day a tasting of Old and New World rosé. Reservations required. AUG 1 – Who doesn’t like cheese and wine? Certainly the RMB 138, includes wine tasting. 6.30pm. Capital M (6702 Swiss do. Join in the celebrations of their National Day with 2727) free-flow white wine and Raclette cheese. RMB 348. 7pm. Scarlett (6552 2880) 5. third Annual Burger Eating Competition 3. The Chef & The Brewer Brunch AUG 11 – Come test your limits of speed and endurance at AUG 18 – Great Leap Brewery and The Cut, Fairmont Beijing The Box, and be this year’s burger terminator. The winner join together for the second installation in their exclusive gets to create a customized burger, with any fixing beer degustation series; the paired four-course brunch will imaginable. Not recommended for those with a history of heart disease. Free. 4pm. The Box (6401 3293)

78 August 2013 trivia travails

Each month we run a series of questions based on the content of the issue. Answer them correctly and win free stuff! This month’s prize is a dinner voucher for two to Seasoning at Holiday Inn Focus Square. Answers to win@thebeijinger. com.

Answers to June’s Trivia Travails: 1. d) beer 2 . c) exercise 3. a) 8 4. b) Yuyuantan Last month’s winner was Gevin Pritts.

1. The western terminus of the 3. How long did it take two Great Wall is called ______. friends to walk the entire length a) Juyongguan of the Great Wall? b) Jiadaling a) 106 days c) Jiayuguan b) 106 years d) Jutianyu c) 106 weeks d) About a month and change 2. Which of the following is NOT a current Great Wall activity? 4. Chongwenmen is a stop a) helicopter flights along which Beijing Metro b) bungie jumping subway line? c) horseback riding a) 1 d) scuba diving b) 13 c) 8 d) 2 Win Stuff Win a dinner voucher for two a dining voucher for Ravioli to Seasoning at Holiday Inn Factory (value RMB 1,000), Focus Square by correctly answering all the questions in a voucher for The Westin Trivia Travails. Beijing Financial Street Senses (value RMB 1,000), Be the first to spot this a voucher for Wahoo Bar month’s Bogus Ad and win (value RMB 1,000), and vouchers for Din Tai Fung. a voucher for Crowne Plaza Up for grabs in the GO and Beijing Park View Wuzhou MEET sections: (value RMB 1,000)

Win a five-liter keg of Franziskaner Weissbier by answering this simple question: In which German city is the Franziskaner brewery based? Send your answer to [email protected] by Aug 15.

宝石蓝：C100 M92 Y0 K1

79 August 2013 PEKING MAN Confidence Woman By George Ding

he call came at 8:30 in the morning. What do you want me to do?” “Hello?” I mumbled, half-asleep. She replied: “Give me the money back.” A woman’s voice came on. Then she sent another text with two bank account “Hi, your phone number ends in ‘77249’ right? numbers at different banks and her full name. TMy coworker’s number is ‘77294.’ I meant to charge her A new wave of doubts flooded my mind.They ran from phone but accidentally put the money into your account. the suspicious (Why did she give me two bank accounts?) Please check with China Mobile, and then call me back.” to the philosophical (Am I morally culpable for someone I’d heard rumors about a scam like this,where some- else’s mistakes?) to the grossly narcissistic (She really one deposits money in your phone or bank account, ought to be nicer if she wants her money back.). then withdraws it after you pay them back. But for some Two days passed and I received another message from reason—maybe because I wasn’t fully conscious—I didn’t the woman: “Mr. Ding, is it convenient for you to go to hang up. In fact, I agreed. the bank today?” Then, abruptly, she asked, “What’s your last name?” I didn’t respond; it sounded like something a conman Again I thought about hanging up but didn’t. I also would say. But it also sounded like what an honest person thought about lying but didn’t. would ask. “My last name is Ding.” I tried to go about my day but the issue “Mine’s Zhao. It’s nice to meet you.” gnawed at me until I found myself spending an Only then did I hang up the phone. Almost inordinate amount of time pondering the moral immediately, my brain admonished me: Bravo, and financial repercussions of my dilemma. Mr. Ding. While you’re at it, why not give her your No matter how hard I thought, I’d never passport and credit card number too? reason out what kind of person Ms. Zhao was. This had to be a con. Asking for my last name I could only decide what kind of person I was was a way to establish a personal connection going to be. and telling me her last name was a way to make me I went to the bank and typed in the account number, humanize her. Right? being very careful not to reverse the last two digits. The I couldn’t shake the nagging doubt that maybe she name she gave me matched the one on the account. I was telling the truth. So I called China Mobile to check my went to the other bank and did the same thing with the balance and, sure enough, there was an extra 350 yuan other account number. Her story—what little I had— in my account. I asked if any deposits had been made in seemed to check out. the last month. I took out the three one-hundred-yuan notes that I’d “On January 4, 300 yuan was deposited into your ac- been carrying for nearly a week and put them in the de- count and the next day another 50,” the customer service posit slot. After they disappeared into the machine I took rep said. out my phone and sent Ms. Zhao a text: “I just deposited “Can you refund the money?” 300 yuan into your bank account. The ATM wouldn’t ac- “No, sir.” cept 50 yuan bills.” “Is there any way to transfer the money to another A few minutes later, as I was walking home, my heart number?” strangely unburdened, I got a brisk, one-word reply: “Not unless they have the same plan as you.” (She “Thanks.” didn’t.) I never spoke to Ms. Zhao after that, and I never found “Okay,” I said, and hung up. out if what she said was true. But it was a long time before I texted the woman: “The money is in my account. I had to put money on my phone.

80 August 2013