Travel Guide of Scenic Byway Kyushu Q-⓯Umi-Yama Scenic Byways in Shimabara Peninsula Unzen, Shimabara, and Minami Shimabara City ( Pref.). Unzen Volcanic Area Geopark, and Rebellion of Shimabara/ Shimabara Peninsula is one of the two peninsulas in the southern (See Map). part of . Centered on the Unzen volcanic region, Points ⓶ and ⓷ on the west coast of the peninsula are when it is 40 km wide, 150 km long, and has an area of about 470 ㎢, and accessing from Fukuoka Airport, Hakata Port or surrounded by the , Shimabara Bay and Tachibana Bay. Airport and boarding a boat from Miike Port, Nagasu Port or It is composed of three municipalities, Unzen City, Shimabara City, Kumamoto Port. Point ⓸ is for a ferry that connects Oniike Port on and Minami-shimabara City, and the area that includes all of them Amakusa Shimoshima Island and Kuchinotsu Port on the south is the “Umi-Yama” Scenic Byway. part of the peninsula. [Access] The main access points are Nagasaki, Fukuoka and [Main Routes in the peninsula] Kumamoto Airports, and Nagasaki Port and Hakata Port are The main routes in the scenic area are the national roads No.57, included. Based on them, four main access routes to the peninsula 251 and 389 that circulate or cross the peninsula, and wide-area are provided. One of them is the peninsula route. From Nagasaki agriculture roads, disaster prevention roads and prefecture roads Airport, Fukuoka Airport, Nagasaki Port or Hakata Port, you also complement them, as shown in Map. arrive at Isahaya IC on the Nagasaki Expressway or Isahaya The Shimabara Railway runs from JR Isahaya Station to Station on the JR Nagasaki Main Line. From there, heading south Shimabara Port Station as public transportation system, and bus on National Road 57, you can arrive at Aino Point ⓵ in Unzen City routes are established along the National Roads and major

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Q-⓯ Umiyama Scenic Byways in Shimabara Peninsula

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(6) Lava Dome of Mt. Heisei-shinzan

(6) Miyama-Kirishima in Unzen-Dake Mountains. (2) Two Times of Big Eruptions in Unzen-Dake Mountains

collapsed as it grew, bypassing Mayuyama and flowing out to the eastern slope of the peninsula as shown in above Photo (2), and we had many casualties occurred. Due to the possibility of volcanic activity in the future, the topography of the peninsula might change further. However, speaking of the current situation, the mountainous area is in the center of the (3) Trace of Hara Castle (World Culture Heritage, (3) Honmaru Ruins of Hara Jo Castle peninsula and is composed of more than 20 Minami-shimabara City mountains such as Heisei Shinzan, forming a prefecture roads on the peninsula. steep slope toward Tachibana Bay. In other areas, small volcanic [Main Scenic Resources] Two main scenic resources of the hills, pyroclastic flows, and debris flow deposits are piled up. Shimabara Peninsula are the geoparks, which are mainly active There is a magma chamber at the bottom of Tachibana Bay, and volcanoes, and the history of hardships of . heat is transmitted to the Unzen Peninsula. Therefore, the entire A) Until several millions of years ago, there were only a few small peninsula is a resort area with hot springs (Onsen), which is the islands in the sea throughout the Shimabara region. However, the biggest blessing from the volcano for our lives on the peninsula. The eruption of volcanos started 1 million to 1.5 million years ago, and main ones are Obama, Unzen, and Shimabara, each with different the outer rim of islands surrounding the Chijiwa Caldera (now qualities. Obama Onsen is a natural hot spring with a maximum Tachibana Bay) was born. Furthermore, the eruption of half a temperature of over 105 ℃. At Unzen Onsen, 30 fountains and hot million years ago connected the outer rim islands with the Kyushu steam spout out, which is said that the hot water is good for healing main island, forming a peninsula. wounds. Shimabara Onsen is gentle on the skin and has a In addition, an earthquake occurred, and north-south faults temperature of about 40 ℃. created a rift extending east-west in the central part of the The Shimabara Peninsula with these contents is a part of Unzen peninsula. After that, volcanic activity on the mountains and Amakusa National Park and was certified as Geopark in collapse of the surrounding area were repeated, formed the current 2008 and Global Geopark in 2009, focusing on Unzen Volcano. topography of the peninsula. Of these volcanic activities, two big B) Another scenic sites are associated with the peasant rebellion eruptions in 1792 and 1989 to1995 are well known. on Amakusa Island and Shimabara Peninsula, which are world In the former case, Mt. Mayu-yama ( 819m) was destroyed by an culture heritage. Farmers in the areas could not withstand earthquake due to the volcanic eruption of Fugendake (1359m). It excessive taxes, famine, and severe oppression on Christians. is reported that 15,000 people were killed or missing due to the Therefore, under the leadership of 16-years-old Amakusa Shiro, the massive tsunami that occurred when the collapsed earth and sand farmers caused the largest revolt in Japan from 1637 to 1638. flowed into Shimabara Bay (see above Photo (2)). In the Shimabara Peninsula, Arima villagers first killed the local The latter is the eruption of Heisei-shinzan Mountain. A lava magistrate. Then, the farmers fought in Fukae Village and attacked dome was formed around the crater, and the pyroclastic flow . On the other hand, in Amakusa Islands, rebels

2 fought at Hondo Castle and attacked Matsukura feudal clan (Fudai Daimyo), Tomioka Castle. However, neither castle and initially had entered Hinoe Castle. However, because the castle was small, could be occupied (See Q-⓭). Therefore, a new castle was built in the Shimabara farmers gathered at the ruin of former area in 1624. After the rebellion of Hara-jo castle and built a base camp Shimabara, Matsukura Clan was there. The scale is said to have been changed too, and other daimyo were 37,000 persons (including non- replaced one after another. Then, in the combatants such as women and era, the daimyo system itself was children). In contrast, the army abolished and the castle was of the shogunate was 130,000 demolished, but it is rebuilt as a museum of modern history in the soldiers. (1) Embankment Road in Isahaya Bay The samurai army attacked the castle present times, as in the Photo (2). several times with overwhelming Samurai armor, materials related power, but all failed. Therefore, they , hidden Christian attacked the rebels while cutting off food relics, ancient folk tools and more are on supplies, and eventually killed or let to display. commit suicide most of the rebels. This In the southern part of the castle was a tragic happening that we had town, there are springs with clean never experienced. waterways, gardens with springs, and communal laundry. This area is a town With reference to the placement of two of clear spring water and hot water. landscape resources, the scenic spots on (1)Nabeshima’s House in Koujiro-Kuji (2)-2 Lava Flow Zone in the Mizunashi this route can be grouped into six zones, River Basin. as shown on the map, which are briefly introduced as follows. The area from Shimabara Port to the (1) Isahaya Bay Area in Unzen City Mizunashi River was directly suffered by a disaster caused with the collapse of Proceeding on National Road 57 from Mayuyama Mount in the the back of the bay to trace the history of and the lava flow from the Mount of Isahaya Bay reclamation, you will reach Heisei-Shinzan (1990~1996). Needless the Aino district at the root of the to say, this area is the core of the Global peninsula. Then, heading east on Route Geopark, and the scars and 251 toward the Azuma Station of (2) Shimabara Castle (Shimabara City) countermeasures that remain today are Shimabara Railroad, you can find the as follows. long straight road on dike, and locks a) The eastern side of Mt. Mayuyama is built by the latest landfill project. a cliff, and small hills are due to Furthermore, taking National Road collapsed soil at the foot of precipice (see 251 toward Taira Port, you can find the Photo (2)). Kunimi Town Historical Culture Park. b) In the Ariake Sea, there are many It is a district called “Koujiro-Kuji”, small islands formed by mudslides and which is registered as a preservation named Tukumo Islands. district for important traditional c) The lava of Heisei Shinzan flowed buildings group. During the Edo period, down at a speed of 100 km/h and widely it belonged to neighboring the covers the basin of Mizunashi River, territory () instead of (2)Spring Garden “Shimeisou” (Shimabara City) which is the boundary between the Shimabara territory. When visiting, Shimabara City and Minami- you can enjoy the old townscape. Many shimabara City. relics such as waterways, hedges, and d) Elementary school and private house stone walls are lined up neatly. buildings destroyed by the pyroclastic Nabeshima House and its garden are flow are left as memorials for the important cultural assets of the country. disaster (See photo (2)). (2)-1 Shimabara Castle and its Town e) At the same time, many levees were (Shimabara City) built to control the flow of lava debris. Proceeding about 12 km south of Facilities for displaying volcano- Taira Port, you will reach the center of related and disaster-related materials Shimabara City. The district adjacent to (2) House buried in Debris Flow has been built and is open to the public Shimabara Station is the Shimabara (Unzendake Disaster Memorial Castle and zone of Samurai Residences. Museum ( nickname: Gamadasu Dome. “Gamadasu” means to do In 1616 of the Edo Period, the lord of Shimabara changed to your best)).

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(3) Heritages of hidden Christian

In the center of Minami- shimabara City, ruins of the medieval Hinoe Castle and heritage related to hidden Christians during the Edo period can be seen. The biggest spot is the site of Hara Castle (World Cultural Heritage), the last battlefield of the Shimabara Amakusa rebellion. The farmers involved in the riot fought desperately while collecting and (3) Tatsuishi Coast (5) Source of Hot Water in Obama Onsen (spa town) eating seaweed from the bottom of the cliff, but eventually they were defeated. All but a spy were killed or allegedlly committed suicide. After that, Christians suffered more severe crackdowns, but they secretly continued their faith. The relics of the hidden Christians and related materials are preserved and exhibited at the Arima Christian’s Heritage Memorial Hall. (5) Hot Spring for Foot in Obama Onsen (4) Futago-iwa (rock) (3) & (4) Geosites in Minami- Shimabara City

You can visit prehistoric geo-sites at the southern end of the Shimabara Peninsula, which are registered with the UNESCO Global Geopark. In other words, you can see the oldest layer of 4.3 million years ago (Hayasaki Peninsula), the andesite (Futagoiwa rocks) erupted half million years ago, and the first (6) Unzen Jigoku (Spout of Hot Water or Steam) (6) Catholic Martyrdom Monument layer in the eruption of Unzen spots are Unzen hot springs, Unzen hells, Volcano (Ryuishi Coast). (See photos and Unzen active volcanos. And, Mt. (3) and (4)). Unzendake is a general term for active (5) Region of Obama Spa Town and volcanoes such as Heisei-Shinzan (1483m), Tachibana Bay Fugendake (1359m), and Myokendake (1333m). If you want to climb these volcanoes, This scenic area is the rift zone you can’t only walk, but also take a bus or facing Tachibana Bay, with the taxi from Unzen Onsen to Nita Pass, and Chijiiwa Fault in the north and the take the ropeway. Kanehama Fault in the south. In particular, the Chijiiwa Fault (4) Dolphin Watching in Shimabara Bay Each of the seas surrounding the extends long in the east-west peninsula has its own unique characteristics. direction, with a fall of 300m to 450m The Ariake Sea in the eastern side has a wide tidal flat, with a well- in 300 thousand years, and the bottom of the south slope sinks at a developed lagoon where crabs, rockfish, puffers, prawns, and kelp rate of 1 to 1.5 mm a year. gather. Tachibana Bay on the west is Caldera Bay, and there are Obama Onsen is one of the 3 major hot springs on the Shimabara many steep cliffs on the coast. And, about 300 dolphins settle at the Peninsula and is on the foot of Mt. Unzendake, with a hot spring southern end of the Shimabara peninsula, and you can see a temperature of 105 ℃ and the largest heat radiation (water volume powerful dolphin show that swims in groups from the boat. ×hot water temperature) in Japan. The foot bath “HOT FOOT 105” In short, this route area is a region of attractive and scenic byways on the beach was named after this fact. The sunset over Tachibana that ties the surrounding sea (Umi) to the central volcano (Yama). Bay while bathing in hot water is a wonderful view. In this sense, "Umi-Yama" is attached to the course name. (6) Region in Unzen Volcano and Unzen Spa

You can climb the Unzendake Mountains through National Road Publishing and Copy right: Promotion Council of Scenic Byway 57 from both Obama Onsen and Shimabara City. The main scenic Kyushu ○c (Copy right 2021. All rights reserved)

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