The original documents are located in Box 2, folder “1976/06/24 - Gown Presentation, ” of the Frances K. Pullen Papers at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.

Copyright Notice The copyright law of the ( 17, United States Code) governs the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material. Gerald Ford donated to the United States of America his copyrights in all of his unpublished writings in National Archives collections. Works prepared by U.S. Government employees as part of their official duties are in the public domain. The copyrights to materials written by other individuals or organizations are presumed to remain with them. If you think any of the information displayed in the PDF is subject to a valid copyright claim, please contact the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.

Scanned from Box 2 of the Frances K. Pullen Files at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library

Betty Ford·. in the gotVn· gOing· to the Smith·· sonian•S'First Ladies Hall, photographed at the May, 1975, State . Dinner the Fords gave for the Shah of Iran. Cut Out· >1£or History . ::;:;.:; . B N' s· ·'H.. :_; .: : ;., . - · :~)i.~~J,::· < y 1 zna··. •. · yae:<;:,~· -·::·-_, ~·· A gre~:~~~~on gown···· · 'Mr~~~;d, li~e other ~t owned bYe~ Gerald Ford L~dles, ,received a l~tter: will be added< to· the First · Ladies HalL:in the Smithso- . frem th~; Smithsonian re- nian Institution's Museum 'questing a' gown shortly at. of History·' and 'recllnology ter she . moved into the next week. :.._". ;_ . White House. Mrs. Ford de· Chosen because it is one of cided to make her donatio= · Mrs. Ford's favorite colors now so it can be installed (soft green>'< and cuts before the July 4 peak tour­ (princess-line .With a stand· ist weekend. up neckline), the gown was ' For two months the cen· worn to the,White House tral exhibits division of the State Dinner for the Shah of Smithsonian has been devel .f Iran in May.;~197~ ,and on oping a mannequin to other occasioila;:,;_: of all' the other 1 is also th&m~ popular O'Js- figures·. in": the exhibits.·; ·, J trtume co.l..I.'~ .• ~.)~.~.<;f!::CO~:--.·. '·l·H'v~.F'ord's hairstylecand y. . . ·-~'f.'1':,lil~~ ~J-''' . . • ' • · · ·been· sculpted that· ''It surras:a.· ..· ~·~gla.·• e;position.. mour• · other·.onto ..aecessories'the manne- of the· · ·~ · ·~· It iso.a. > · . !since': · ·' very tie~iu.ftipse of the;~ · . carry· a' · First LaiU'~l~~~!i ~Margaret ;· ·\ the :dress~ Klapthor;j¢rf.~of the di-. . . to be vision of'po1ftlCal;.~history at the Smitba0Dfaiit 1~"That: is: · by .FirstlA:~ies;;d':J why it.is:~&;;tli&.division,. · ' . · half. of.

of costume:;~textilesI , ·•- J but.- fu. ..• .the'·tiall, wen, . . in the po~ory sec• ·.. tlon ofthfi-- · -~;,,.,.,,. . ···;,o···,;;i~~t;ii'6i _...,..\ · •.. ' .;n -.• '• The Board of Regents The Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution and The Director of the National Museum of History and Technology request the honor of your presence at the presentation of A Ball Gown by Mrs. Gerald R. Ford to the Collection of the Dresses of the First Ladies

Thursday afternoon, June the twenty-fourth Nineteen hundred and seventy-six at three o'clock in the First Ladies Hall National Museum of History and Technology Constitution Avenue at Fourteenth Street, Northwest City

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NGTON • ADAMS • JEFFERSON At lower left on this page is show11 a C1l p and saucer of Martha 1Vash­ ington's "States" cbh1a. Names of tbe fifteen Stales in 1796 appear on tbe rims. the left as you enter the First Ladies Hall is a room To the right of the entrance doorway directly across from the g that presents seated beside her drawing room setting of Washington's High Street residence tble in the second-floor drawing room of the Executive in Philadelphia there is depicted a bedroom from the same house. ion at 190 High Street in Philadelphia, the city that was This room setting is presented to show some of the great variety tpital of the United States from 1790 to 1800. The room of President and Mrs. Washington's household furnishings now mged with furniture and accessories that belonged to Presi­ in the collections of the National Museum. The most important and Mrs. Washington and were used by them at Mount pieces are the handsome Chippendale bed, which dominates m and at their various Presidential residences. • the room, and the wing chair that was in President Washington's e mantelpiece is a replica of the drawing room mantel bedroom at Mount Vernon. The fine Oriental export porcelain e Philadelphia house, and the rug with the Great Seal water bottle and bowl and the dressing mirror also are from e United States was actually used in that residence. The Mount Vernon. used the brass candlestick :ure, silver Argand lamps, porcelains, silver, glass, mirror, for illumination while drafting his Farewell Address to the ·il painting were all owned by President and Mrs. Washing­ Nation. Most of these items are from the collection of Washington Just inside a case on the wall beside the wing chair is a purchased by the U. S. Government from the heirs of pair of miniature portraits in oil of George and Martha Wash­ Custis Lewis in 1883. ington painted by the American artist John Trumbull. The this setting are displayed gowns that belonged to Martha engraved portrait of the Countess of Huntington on the back ington, to , and to Martha Jefferson Ran­ wall is one that she personally sent to George Washington . ., the daughter of President Jefferson. The dresses are The woodwork used in the room setting is from a 1790 house ;entative of the late 18th century. in Kutztown, . 1809-1829

MADISON • MONROE • ADAMS

This setting represents a portion of a music room in the Displayed in the room are dresses worn by (from right to White House as it might have looked during the administra­ left) Dolley Payne Madison; Elizabeth Kortright Monroe; Maria tion of President . A portrait of Mrs. Monroe Gouverneur, who lived at the White House with her Adams, by Charles Bird King, hangs to the left of the window. parents and was married there in 1820; and Louisa Johnson Mrs. Adams' harp, music stand, and books are in the room. Adams. The dress is the one she wore at the These furnishings, as well as the handsome brocatelle curtains, New Year's Day reception in 1816. Mrs. Benjamin Crownin­

are from the large Adams-Clement collection of relics froq~ shield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, left a contemporary the John Adams and John Quincy•Adams families. The piano, account of the dress as "yellow satin embroidered all over with made by Alpheus Babcock of Boston, is believed to have been sprigs of butterflies, not two alike in the dress." used in the White House during the administration of Presi­ dent John Quincy Adams. The label on the piano case is one of the kind used by Babcock between 1822 and 1829.

0--Purple-bordered dessert plate of china of President . Vignettes represent commene, agri­ mlt!!re, art, science, and welfare. )9-1829

~aN• MONROE • ADAMS

is setting represents a portion of a music room in the Displayed in the room are dresses worn by (from right to e House as it might have looked during the administra­ left) Dolley Payne Madison ; Elizabeth Kortright Monroe; Maria of President John Quincy Adams. A portrait of Mrs. Monroe Gouverneur, who lived at the White House with her 1s, by Charles Bird King, hangs to the left of the window. parents and was married there in 1820; and Louisa Johnson Adams' harp, music stand, and books are in the room. Adams. The Dolley Madison dress is the one she wore at the

~furnishings, as well as the handsome brocatelle curtains, New Year's Day reception in 1816. Mrs. Benjamin Crownin­ 'rom the large Adams-Clement collection of relics from shield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, left a contemporary

)hn Adams and John Quincy Adams families. The pi~o, account of the dress as "yellow satin embroidered all over with by AI pheus Babcock of Boston, is believed to have been sprigs of butterflies, not two alike in the dress." in the White House during the administration of Presi­ John Quincy Adams. The label on the piano case is one e kind used by Babcock between 1822 and 1829.

~11rple-bordereddessert plate of chh1a of President James 1\I omoe . Vig11ettes represent commerce, agri­ mltllre, art, science, and welfare. 1829-1845

JACKSON · VAN BUREN • HARRISON • TYLER

The setting for this period presents a reception room as it might have looked in the White House during the adminis­ tration of President . The wallpaper was inspired by a contemporary description of a White House room that told of "white paper sprinkled with gold stars and a gilt border." The silk Oriental rug was a gift to President Van Buren from the Imam of Muscat. The eagle-back side chair was also in the White House duf:ng this period. Other fur­ niture and decorative accessories in the room are of a type that was popular in this country in the early 19th century. The dresses shown (from right to left) are those worn by Emily Cup and saucer of gray, gold, and Donelson, Mrs. Jackson's niece, and by , white china brought to the White wife of the President's adopted son, both of whom served as House by Angelica Singleton Van White House hostesses during the Jackson administration; An­ Buren during the administration of gelica Van Buren; Jane Irwin Findlay, hostess for President her father-in-law, President Martin William Henry Harrison; and , second wife Van Buren. of President Tyler. The dresses and the decor represent a transition from the Em­ pire to the Victorian styles. The dress of is the earliest inaugural gown in the collection. .. • . t . * . ... 9-1845 * * t * * .. * . * * . * . * ..I~T* . . * . * * . * . .. . ''· ~ : ... . 1f * N • VAN BUREN • HARRISON • TYLER * . * . * . * * • * . * . . * * * . * . * * . setting for this period presents a reception room as it * * have looked in the White House during the adminis­ . n of President Martin Van Buren. The wallpaper was * . * . * . *• .ed by a contemporary description of a White House room * * . * • *" . old of "white paper sprinkled with gold stars and a gilt .r. " The silk Oriental rug was a gift to President Van * from the Imam of Muscat. The eagle-back side chair also in the White House during this period. Other ?ur­ and decorative accessories in the room are of a type that opular in this country in the early 19th century. te dresses shown (from right to left) are those worn by Emily Ctt p and sa11cer of gray, gold, and :!son, Mrs. Jackson's niece, and by Sarah Yorke Jackson, white china bro11ght to the White of the President's adopted son, both of whom served as Ho11se by Angelica Singleton Van e House hostesses during the Jackson administration; An­ Bttren dttring the administration of a Van Buren; Jane Irwin Findlay, hostess for President her father-in-law, President i\1arti17 iam Henry Harrison ; and Julia Gardiner Tyler, second wife Van B11re1z. resident Tyler. e dresses and the decor represent a transition from the Em­ to the Victorian styles. The dress of Emily Donelson is the est inaugural gown in the collection. 1845-1869

POLK · TAYLOR · FILLMORE · PIERCE • BUCHANAN · LINCOLN ·JOHNSON

The mid-19th century is represented by a Victorian parlor the White House was being renovated during the administration reminiscent of a White House room of the period. The wallpaper of President Harry Truman. The white marble mantel was orig­ was reproduced from a small piece of original White House paper inally installed during the administration of President Franklin found under several layers of plaster and paneling secured while Pierce. The richly carved, laminated rosewood furniture was made by John Henry Belter, a cabinetmaker in City from 1844 to 1863. The silver service on the table belonged to Mrs. Lincoln. Displayed in this setting are the dresses worn by Sarah • Childress Polk (at far right) ; Betty Taylor Bliss (at right of win­ dow), daughter of President Taylor; Abigail Powers Fillmore (at left of window) ; Jane Appleton Pierce; (in~ front of mantel), niece of President Buchanan; (at left of table) ; and Martha Johnson Patterson, daugh- Green-bordered dessert plate from ter of President Andrew Johnson. This was the era of the hoop the state cbina of PresideJll James skirt in American period costume. K. Polk. iS-1869

TAYLOR · FILLMORE · PIERCE • NAN· LINCOLN· JOHNSON

1e mid-19th century is represented by a Victorian parlor the White House was being renovated during the administration 1iscent of a White House room of the period. The wallpaper of President Harry Truman. The white marble mantel was orig­ ·eproduced from a small piece of original White House paper inally installed during the administration of President . The richly carved, laminated rosewood furniture was :1 under several layers of plaster and paneling secured while made by John Henry Belter, a cabinetmaker in from 1844 to 1863. The silver service on the table belonged to Mrs. Lincoln. Displayed in this setting are the dresses worn by (at far right) ; Betty Taylor Bliss (at right of win­ dow), daughter of President Taylor; Abigail Powers Fillmore (at left of window); Jane Appleton Pierce; Harriet Lane (in'J--._ front of mantel), niece of President Buchanan; Mary Todd Lincoln (at left of table) ; and Martha Johnson Patterson, daugh- ter of President Andrew Johnson. This was the era of the hoop :d dessert plate from skirt in American period costume. 1a of Preside111 James 1869-1893

GRANT • HAYES • GARFIELD • ARTHUR • CLEVELAND • HARRISON

This setting shows the as it looked during the ad­ ministration of President Ulysses S. Grant. Contemporary photo­ graphs show black and gold borders on the walls, similar to the ones in this setting. The black marble mantel was installed in the White House during President Grant's administration, but not in the Blue Room. The gold furniture in the setting was purchased for the Blue Room during President 's adminis­ tration and was used in that room until 1902. The rug is an adaptation of one shown in the earliest photographs of the Blue Room. A portrait of President Grant by William Cogswell hangs over the mantel. The cloisonne vases on the mantel were gifts received by the Grants during their round-the-world tour. In this setting (from right to left) are dresses of Julia Dent Grant; ; Lucretia Rudolph Garfield; Mary Ar­ thur McElroy, sister of President Arthur; Rose Elizabeth Cleve­ land, sister of President Cleveland; and Caroline Scott Harrison and her daughter Mary Harrison McKee representing the admin­ istration of President . The lavish decorations Plate from the service of Limoges the room and the heavily embroidered and beaded dresses china made for me in the lr7 hite of characterize this period of the bustle. Home d11ring the administration of President Benjamin Harrison. 59-1893 r • HAYES • GARFIELD • ARTHUR • CLEVELAND • HARRISON

This setting shows the Blue Room as it looked during the ad­ ministration of President Ulysses S. Grant. Contemporary photo­ graphs show black and gold borders on the walls, similar to the ones in this setting. The black marble mantel was installed in the White House during President Grant's administration, but not in the Blue Room. The gold furniture in the setting was purchased for the Blue Room during President James Buchanan's adminis­ tration and was used in that room until 1902. The rug is an • adaptation of one shown in the earliest photographs of the Blue Room. A portrait of President Grant by William Cogswell hangs over the mantel. The cloisonne vases on the mantel were gifts received by the Grants during their round-the-world tour. In this setting (from right to left) are dresses of Julia D ent Grant; Lucy Webb Hayes; Lucretia Rudolph Garfield; Mary Ar­ thur McElroy, sister of President Arthur; Rose Elizabeth Cleve­ land, sister of President Cleveland; and Caroline Scott Harrison and her daughter Mary Harrison McKee representing the admin­ istration of President Benjamin Harrison. The lavish decorations from the service of Limoges of the room and the heavily embroidered and beaded dresses made for me in the IF' hite characterize this period of the bustle. e d11ring the administration of :lent Benjamin Harrison. 1893-1921

CLEVELAND • McKINLEY • ROOSEVELT· TAFT·

By the end of the 19th century, the Blue Room had been re­ Exhibited in this setting (from left to right) are the dresses of decorated in a robin's-egg blue, and the style of decoration had Frances Folsom Cleveland, Ida Saxton McKinley, Edith Kermit changed to the more sophisticated elegance depicted in this setting. Roosevelt, , Ellen Axson Wilson, and Edith The gold furniture purchased in 1859 was still in use, but up­ Bolling Wilson. The beautiful fabrics and elaborate styling of holstery fabric had been changed to match the new color. A con­ the inaugural ball gowns of Mrs. McKinley, Mrs. Roosevelt, and temporary photograph shows that the door was hung with a cur­ Mrs. Taft are worthy of special attention. tain draped in the manner shown in the setting. The two eagle­ The dresses worn by the first Mrs. Wilson and the second Mrs. design glass globes on the front wanches of the gas chandelier Wilson are representative of the transition period between the were used in the White House during this period. stylized fashions of the 19th century and the more fluid lines of the 20th century.

Cut crystal water bottle in the "Rus­ sian" pattem from the state crystal service mt for the administration of President Theodore Roo.revelt. This pattern had been in use in the White House since the administra­ tion of President . 3-1921

AND • McKINLEY • ROOSEVELT· TAFT· WILSON

the end of the 19th century, the Blue Room had been re­ Exhibited in this setting (from left to right) are the dresses of ated in a robin's-egg blue, and the style of decoration had Frances Folsom Cleveland, Ida Saxton McKinley, Edith Kermit ed to the more sophisticated elegance depicted in this setting. Roosevelt, Helen Herron Taft, Ellen Axson Wilson, and Edith gold furniture purchased in 1859 was still in use, but up- Bolling Wilson. The beautiful fabrics and elaborate styling of ry fabric had been changed to match the new color. A con­ the inaugural ball gowns of Mrs. McKinley, Mrs. Roosevelt, and orary photograph shows that the door was hung with a cur­ Mrs. Taft are worthy of special attention. raped in the manner shown in the setting. The two eagle­ The dresses worn by the first Mrs. Wilson and the second Mrs. n glass globes on the front branches of the gas chand~ierWilson are representative of the transition period between the used in the White House during this period. stylized fashions of the 19th century and the more fluid lines of the 20th century.

Cut crystal water bottle in tbe "Rm­ sian" pa!!em f1·om the stale crystal service ml for the administration of Ptesident . Tbis pal!em had been in 11se in the 117hite Ho11se since the administta­ tion of President Grover Cleveland. 1921-1965

HARDING • COOLIDGE · HOOVER • ROOSEVELT • TRUMAN • EISENHOWER • KENNEDY· JOHNSON

The last setting in the series, shown on the cover of this The dresses of Florence Kling Harding (at far right in the book, presents the as it has looked during the 20th cover photograph) and Grace Goodhue Coolidge are typical of century. The wood paneling and pilasters, the two marble man­ the flapper fashions worn in the 1920's. Bringing the fashions of tels, and one of the gold mirror frames were actually used in the our First Ladies up to the present day are the dresses of Lou East Room from the time of the restoration of the White House Henry Hoover, , Bess Wallace Truman, Mamie in 1902 during the administration of President Theodore Roose­ Doud Eisenhower, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, and Claudia velt until the renovation made during the administration of (Lady Bird) Taylor Johnson. President Truman.

The gold Steinway grand piano, ~vento the White House in 1903, was used in the East Room until the administration of President Franklin D. Roosevelt. The gold furniture, used in the East Room during the administration of President Herbert Hoover, was retired to the National Museum in 1937.

Service plate from the state china used in the White Ho11se from President 's ad­ ministration to President Herbert Hoover's administration. PROPOSED R&~RKS--Dress Presentation, Smithsonian Institute, June 24, 1976

l'1r. Ripley, I_'m delighted to have one of my favorite dresses in this ·very special collection. When I brought visitors to this Hall, never in my wildest dreams did I expect to ever be here myself.

I've often heard children in the hall point and ask: who is that lady? That's the way I feel today. Surely, the answer isn't . It's going to take a while to get used to the idea I could come over to the Smithsonian

and see myself. I'm very thrilled.

Like so many Americans, I've been educated and enter- tained by the many wonders of the Smithsonian. I just want to say thanks to all who work so hard to keep the Smithsonian such a fascinating and growing treasure house.. You really are doing a fabulous job, and I'm very honored to become part of the Institute.

# # #

•;~~t""F:.·" ~ ... : • -_

• Proposed Remarks, Dress Presentation, Smithsonian Institute, June 24, 1976

Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my favorite dresses to this very special collection. When

I brought visitors to the First Ladies Hall, never in my wildest dreams did I expect to be here myself.

I've often heard a child point and ask: who is that lady? That's the way I feel today, and surely the answer isn't Betty Ford. Me .•• in a museum. I'm amazed. It's going to take me a while to get use to the idea I would come over and see myself.

~-t.. I want to t~ all of you who work so hard to keep the ~mi~hsonian s:lu.dlXliHXexriiciH~ exciting) ~ ~~ evw:J..~·~- ~.~ G..Jv-. kfiEY•i ae~gnrs gf education and ~ntezt:idnJmnt

T~a~e~~~~tertains and educates visitors from all over the world~and I'm very thrilled to be part of America's treasure house.

Thank you.

• Proposed Remarks, First Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976

Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my favorite dresses to this collection. Through the years,

I've brought many visitors to the First Ladies Hall.

Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think one of my dresses would be here. This is an honor I never expected, and standing here xxxe&X~Hsxxaxxxxxxe today

I xeexx#Hxxxaxxxxxxex still feel surprised to be part of this Smithsonian exhibit. It's really quite a strange xeexx~~xExkR3H feeling, but a thrill.

-0-

• First Ladies Collection, June 24, 1976

Mr. Ripley, I'm delighted to present one of my favorite dresses to this marvelous collection.

Through the years, I've brought many visitors to the First Ladies Hall. I can just imagine how surprised I would have been at the idea of I would someday be part of this collection. I certainly never dreamed I would S8M&aaxsamex«B¥ ever be First

Lady, and standing here today I feel just a little a awed at becoming part of xke Smithsonian exhibit.

-0-

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

THE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TEX;HNOLOGY

The Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is one of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and Technology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's with Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited citizens of Washington,D.C. The first dress received for the collection was the inaugural gown of Mrs. 1 the presiding , who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their descendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses were soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a dress representing the administration of every past President of the United States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each First Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves are exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces are all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied from a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting appearance to the entire group.

The collection is installed in a series of eight period settings that give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of surroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains dresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles in White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are shown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the White House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen­ tation of the changes in American period costume.from the administration of President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it is of great interest to students of costume design.

The collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted as hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives. It was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances did not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that a relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President. There are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were not available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later administrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.

Leaflet 73-3 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

DESCRIPTION OF LADIES REPRESENTED IN OUR COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE

NAME HEIGHT OF MANNEQUIN HAIR EYES

Martha Washington 5 I 5 1/2" Brown Hazel Abigail Smith Adams 5' 3 1/2" Dark Brown Dark Brown Martha Jefferson Randolph 5' 6" Chestnut Blue Dolley Madison 5' 7" Black Blue Elizabeth K. Monroe 5' 4 1/2" Black Blue Maria Monroe Gouverneur 5' 1 1/2" Brown Blue Louisa Catherine Adams 5' 6 1/2" Brown Dark Emily Donelson 5' 4 1/2" Auburn Brown Sarah Yorke Jackson 5' Black Dark Brown Sarah Angelica Van Buren 5' 9" Dark Brown Dark Brown Jane Irwin Findlay 5' 4 1/2" Gray 1 Brown Julia Gardiner Tyler 5 5 1/2" Dark Black Hazel Gray Sarah Childress Polk 517 11 Dark Black Dark Betty Taylor Bliss Dandridge 512" Brown Blue Abigail Powers Fillmore 51 4 1/2" Auburn Blue Jane Appleton Pierce 5 I 1" Dark Dark Harriet Lane Johnston 5' 8" Blonde Dark Blue Mary Todd Lincoln 5 I 4 1/2" Brown Blue Martha Johnson Patterson 51 4 1/2" Light Brown Blue Julia Dent Grant 5' 4 1/2" Graying Brown Hazel Lucy Webb Hayes 51 4 1/2" Dark Black Dark Brown Lucretia Rudolph Garfield 5' 3 1/2" Brown Brown Mary Arthur McElroy 5 I 4 3/4" Dark Dark Rose Elizabeth Cleveland 5 I 3 1/2" Dark Brown Dark Brown Caroline Scott Harrison 51 3 1/2" Gray Hazel Mary Harrison McKee 51 2" Brown Brown Frances Folsom Cleveland 51 6" Brown Blue Ida Saxton McKinley 5' 5 3/4" Gray Blue Edith Carow Roosevelt 5' 8" Brown Cray Helen Herron Taft 5 I 7 1/8" Graying Brown Dark Blue Ellen Axson Wilson 5' 6 1/2" Golden Brown Brown Edith Bolling Wilson 5 I 7" Dark Brown Dark Brown Florence Kling Harding 5 I 5 1/2" Gray Blue Grace Goodhue Coolidge 5' 8" Brown Hazel 5 I 8" Gray Blue Anna Eleanor Roosevelt 51 9" Brown Blue Bess Wallace Truman 51 5 1/2" Gray Blue Mamie Doud Eisenhower 5 I 5" Brown Blue Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy 51 7" Brown Brown Claudia Taylor Johnson 51 6" Dark Brown Brown Patricia Nixon 5' 6" Blonde Brown Leaflet 73-4 Smithsonian Institution

• FIRST LADIES

Presidents' Wives and ~ Hostesses of the White House

Photographic prints (8"xl0" contact including border) are available for $1.25 each. These reproductions are the best available from the portraits in the Library's collections. However, they vary considerably according to the quality of the original. Orders are subject to a minimum charge of $2.00, with minimum postage fees of $.25 for orders of $10.00 or less, and $1.00 for orders over $10.00. Negative numbers and names should be given when ordering prints. Single-weight glossy prints will be f~rnished unless double-weight semi-matte prints are specified. Address requests and make remittances payable to:

Chief, Photoduplication Service Washington, D. C. 20540

25-15g

• • I

~.:'& ~ .,,,;, ~'-

'

1

25

• 56 ./

• ...

ADMINISTRATION FIRST LADIES NEGATIVE NUMBER 1 • Washington *Martha Dandridge (Custis) Washington LC-USZ62-25767 2. John Adams *Abigail Smith Adams LC-USZ62-25768 Jefferson Martha Wayles (Skelton) Jefferson No portrait known 3 Jefferson Martha Jefferson Randolph LC-USZ62-25769 Jefferson Maria "Polly" Wayles Jefferson Eppes No portrait known 4. Madison *Dolley Payne (Todd) Madison LC-USZ62-25770 5. Monroe *Elizabeth Kortright Monroe LC-USZ62-25771 6. Monroe Eliza Monroe Hay LC-USZ62-25819 7. John Q. Adams *Louisa Catherine Johnson Adams LC-USZ62-25772 8. Jackson *Rachel Donelson (Robfrds) Jackson LC-USZ62-25773 9. Jackson Emily Donelson LC-USZ62-25774 10. Jackson Sarah Yorke Jackson LC-USZ62-25775 ll. Van Buren *Hannah Hoes Van Buren LC-USZ62-25776 12. Van Buren Angelica Singleton Van Buren LC-USZ62-25777 13. W. H. Harrison *Anna Tuthill Symmes Harrison LC-USZ62-25820 w. H. Harrison Jane Irwin Harrison D.A.R.,Vincennes,Ind 14. w. H. Harrison Jane Irwin Findlay LC-USZ62-25778 15. Tyler * LC-USZ62-25779 16. Tyler Priscilla Cooper Tyler LC-USZ62-25780 17. Tyler Letitia Tyler Semple LC-USZ62-25818 18. Tyler *Julia Gardiner Tyler LC-USZ62-25781 19. Polk *Sarah Childress Polk LC-USZ62-25782 Taylor Margaret Mackall Smith Taylor Spurious portrait 20. Taylor Mary Elizabeth "Betty" Taylor Bliss (Dandridge) LC-USZ62-25783 21. Fillmore *Abigail Powers Fillmore LC-USZ62-25784 22. Fillmore Mary LC-USZ62-25785 23. Fillmore *Caroline Carmichael (Mcintosh) Fillmore LC-USZ62-25786 24. Pierce *Jane Means Appleton Pierce LC-USZ62-25787 Pierce Abby Kent Means Not available 25. Buchanan Harriet Lane (Johnston) LC-USZ62-25788 26. Lincoln *Mary Todd Lincoln LC-USZ62-25789 27. A. Johnson *Eliza McCardle Johnson LC-USZ62-25821 28. A. Johnson Martha Johnson Patterson LC-USZ62-25790 29. Grant *Julia Dent Grant LC-USZ62-25791 30. Hayes *Lucy Ware Webb Hayes LC-USZ62-25792 31. Garfield *Lucretia Rudolph Garfield LC-USZ62-25793 32. Arthur *Ellen Lewis Herndon Arthur LC-USZ62-25794 33. Arthur Mary Arthur McElroy LC-USZ62-25795 34. Cleveland Rose Elizabeth Cleveland LC-USZ62-25796 35. Cleveland *Frances Folsom Cleveland LC-USZ62-25797 36. B. Harrison *Caroline Lavinia Scott Harrison LC-USZ62-25798 37. B. Harrison Mary Scott Harrison McKee LC-USZ62-25799 38. B. Harrison *Mary Scott Lord (Dimmick) Harrison LC-USZ62-25800 39. McKinley *Ida Saxton McKinley LC-USZ62-25801 40. T. R. Roosevelt *Alice Hathaway Lee Roosevelt LC-USZ62-25802 41. T. R. Roosevelt *Edith Kermit Carow Roosevelt LC-USZ62-25803 42. Taft *Helen Herron Taft LC-USZ62-25804 43. Taft Helen Herron Taft (Manning) LC-USZ62-25805 44. Wilson *Ellen Louise Axson Wilson LC-USZ62-25806 45. Wilson Helen Woodrow Bones LC-USZ62-25807 46. Wilson LC-USZ62-25817 47. Wilson *Edith Bolling (Galt) Wilson LC-USZ62-25808 48. Harding *Florence Kling (DeWolf) Harding LC-USZ62-25809 49. Coolidge *Grace Anna Goodhue Coolidge LC-USZ62-25810 SO. Hoover *Lou Henry Hoover LC-USZ62-258ll 51. F. D. Roosevelt *Anna Eleanor Roosevelt Roosevelt LC-USZ62-25812 52. Truman *Elizabeth "Bess" Wallace Truman LC-USZ62-25813 53. Eisenhower *Mary "Mamie" Geneva Doud Eisenhower LC-USZ62-25814 54. Kennedy *Jacqueline Lee Bouvier Kennedy LC-USZ62-25815 55. L. B. Johnson *Claudia Alta "Lady Bird" Taylor Johnson LC-USZ62-25816 56. Nixon *Patricia Ryan Nixon LC-USZ62-35648 *Wife

• SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION U. S. National Museum Department of Civil History Washington, D. C. 20560

PHOTOGRAPHS OF FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE

Black and white, 8 by 10 inch photographic prints of First Ladies of the White House, as listed below, may be purchased from the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C. 2056o, at ~~per print. An additional 25 cents should be added to each order to 'cover cost of mailing and handling. Please order by negative number and make remittance payable to the Smithsonian Institution.

Martha Washington, wife of President George Washington, from the oil portrait by John Trumbull ••••••..••••• ~············· 26483

Louisa Catherine Ad~s, wife of President John Quincy Adams, from the oil portrait by Charles Bird King ••.••..••••.••.... 41241

Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), family friend and hostess for President William Henry Harrison, from a dagl.lerreotype...... 37320

Abigail Powers Fillmore, wife of President , from a photograph contemporary with her stay in the White House...... 41283

Harriet Lane Johnston, niece and First Lady for President James Buchanan, from a miniature on ivory by J. Henry Brown. • • . . • • • . • . . . • • • • . • • . • • • • • . • • • • • . • • • • • • . • • . • . . 676-A

Julia Dent Grant, wife of President Ulysses S. Grant, in a family scene painted by William Cogswell •.••.••..•.••.•.•••• 663

Rose Elizabeth Cleveland, sister of and White House hostess for President Grover Cleveland during his bachelorhood, from a contemporary photograph •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• 43829

Photographs of First Ladies (Presidents' Wives and Hostesses of the White House) may be obtained from the Library of Congress, Washington, D. c. For a list of the negative numbers and instructions for ordering write to the Photoduplication Service, Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. 20540.

SIL-3 rev. 10/67

• 1"~.lillTI1J\ ClJ .:PJ.S YLt-lSJIJ;;r:~t~,,)N. (·r-t~~:J.. C< Ol'"'t_~C ~:<: s:·li.:·t~;totl) J:i'irzt L£d.::r, 17~--1'T9'{.

Drc33 rns.Oe of~ 5..Jl.L:0 .. 1-:.._j 1.. -: .:"itlt~J [":l~r ·..,i.:~l.t a 1:artd.jJV. .111ted dPsJp;n of yr il..c1 :e-;_lF.-te ~s r.:...r. ..:: i'_ir:·..;'r..ts oi.. :\tJ.:·+.:l t\u:r-r.~J-~o... Bro::ru ::.latJ.r.L b!?{~ ~lD.(i.s. ... l.tJ.6. e:·,J)l o~ d~·~!"'ctl l)y !{:cs. ~le.--:!'J.iT~€to~.1.

72-24D2

Dar1~ bh;e Ca11ton cTepe clre.,;s trlr!JiilP.cl ·~11 tb a borctcr of Ch:Lnese enbro:Ld~=;;ry. The b.;: c·:)Cil r~o·1ta:'in~:: locks c.,f the

he.ir of John Ads:.s 5 Al'-: gail ,\cls.-J.' .s 8.:1.d t1 ·.e1.r sr)n .J chn Q.uincy ];da.as.

72-24oj H.tJ\TtL':,. JZFT';:';E~~I)iT R.A~TI:X)LPE (Hr~. ':'tOIN'~ Mer;n "RJc~olp~-) Daughter o...:· P1.·esiL'd fj_r;.;t Le.G.y, 1801-1809.

Black wool sh.:~;l wlth a p:?.isl cy border. t

DOLLEY PAY1fE TODD WilliSON (1!ra. Jr:.:..·.en J.f:,dison.) First Lr..dy, l809-lU17.

Yellov. scti"1 Eu::rtil·~ St.:Jrlc dl:)C:J ..; (teco~Cfl.--~0\i ;.;lth c~·l:illese embroirler:r.. Of "'rnrtterf1.ie-: J i~1~e~t~ CIJd f·~.CT1:ers. :·lOl"n

1·nllo. 181.r)-"· to"'~"" 1N•<•···;·-· Ve,:rl,:,.L...... ,. ~ Dnr....,~,) .,....,..,,..r,··t·:rv1.... '-.,...-,!-' ..._.._ .... t..lo"·t t'1·'""•..&.,_. 1F·,-lJL.·"-,.,_.._...._ __ ..._. }r,..,,,.,.,.,o~.'-V.-·._~~, The S~).'Q;-ll_el~OG·d f:·ln bc-~lc.n1ged_ to M::-s ~ r~!nil.Ison t\n:'i the t11:rba:l head-dl~e!-3 £ ·~1.J.fJ n. co~tt!.l!.:-2 aecesso:"y charncteriE·t:tc o:f Il.rs. lfilld.i~~on..

ELIZA.BE"l.'H KOE.".i:'~IGHl' ~~Oi\!3GE (Mn;. ,James Monroe) First Ls.dy, 1817-2..B25.

D-resc or the 18th c.:n·';u:r.::--- su.cg_uc: style rrP.cic of cre2..1lt colo:· ta.ffet.o. 1n·oee.d.ed in a flon:cl clf:LI1f::>"l1 and tdJ;rr..J~:d wi. th Po:l nt de Venir::;e: lc..ce &.nJ. fJ.y f.': .:.r:zc. u 1ua tch:Lng ur~dsr:.:.J~irG co"'j:r;}le te tl1::: c·utfJ C. Th"~ tcr>[~z necldace ··as i_)t:rcL."l.E(!d by Prf;31dent Nom·oc.: whe:n. h~ "k'D.S l-Iin.ister to F.tW!CG ..

\ .

• M1uUA AQ!;}1:JE GO'JVE,\IIE'JR (1-l.l.'S ~ Sarr.ueJ. L, Gou n.rr.e·1r) Daughter ol' P _tc~nidc:tt J~urcs l·foi.trO<- _, 18.L'[ -182:).

Dress r:ade :tn France of blue taffeta ed>.ro:i_de:cec". with 1

72-2407 LOUISA CATE:t:

Late &c'l:lire style c.1.ress ms.de of \/h:i. t:e net over •.;hite satin ;::.nd tr:i.l':::J.·::'d v:i.tll satin tJO'n'S atJ.u sil•Ier 1craid. 'I'h<::. linen hE:.;-).dkcrchief te~_on_;cd to Hrs. Adr:wts.

72-2'~08 ""EMJLY OOKF.:-~~SON (~trs. Andreu Jackson Donelson) Niece of Presiden:. Andre11 Jackson 1md First Lady, 1829-1836.

Bodice from her Inm

SJ\lli.U: YOR.l(E .JACICSO'I (;•l::s. , Jr.) \{ife of the ado_9ted son of President At1.. drew Jackson and First Lady, 1836-1837.

Wedding dress made o:f white satin and mull embroidered in a vhite floral desigr...

72-2) 10 ANG'ELICA SIHG:GEI'OlJ VAN BURllii (Mrs. Abrc;u Van Duren) Daughter-in-lf,"; of J.lre:::ident Martin Van Buren fi.nd. First Lc:.d.y, 1837-1841.

Blue velvet dre:::s c...;ned by llu·s. Abrr"'r.1 Van Bure::1. The dre:1s is exhibited lli th its original hoop f'ot:ndation an.d. lace bertha.

~·J &IE Imrnr FT!\TDLAY (H.rs. J-a,nes Fincllay) l>lother-in-le:w of 1--frs. lriillia'11 Een.ry Harrison Jr. Fa.m:Uy friend of Presi.dent and Mrs. 1-lHl::.a.m !Ienry Harrison. FirsL LW.y, 1841.

Inaugural Ilall gm·m r,;ade of brc-.-m velvet "ith leg-of--rnu"::.ton slee·tes .

x- Denotes Inaugural Dresses

• cHJT-"lA' G1\:\DD:-E:>::t T~T• .l' _, ( !l.crs. cT chn T·:-,c2 <:>r l Secon.c1 wife oi Pre:1~.aent J c,>r: Tyler ancl First LEidy, l2l~l{ .181+).

D:·: _,s r -..J.de (Jf s.:H.:E•::'" \-ilLite rn1..1l: eml-,roid.c:r.~c:d. \f1t1l s1J~\rer thre·-:.·l t rv1 tt!_k floa2 in g flcn•:=r dcr,:ign :!.n ::-·;!,:tnbo•, c~olcr s. Won1 :in ] f)l...l u}~.s.l J!..J :;s Gco.rJ.:i_I'e:t• 1:a •. I'res~rrLed Lt tlle Court of Lou:l.~; I'hi1 Lp:o~ of' FlTJ1ce,

72-2113 *SARNi ;rr~r:;.--;s POL!~ (H1::1. Js:.;:cs K. Pc'D~) First Le,dy, 131+5-ltll s;

lnau;uro.1 I3a11 go·,•n rn.de of blue r:ibbed sill<: brocaded in a poinsett:i_e. des:i.[;t:. and tr.lJJZ:l':·d wj_th satin rib"jcms and lace.

BEI'TY TAYLOR BLISS D.6JWRIDGE ( ...M.Ji·s ,_ • Pl·-il- ~-.i'""-- J·.,..,-·.::. """'dr··ic'l;;·p).L. --.:...L - -o - Daughter of Preside'"t Zechary 1849 .. 1850.

Da~yti1ne dres:; 1-:1~c of green.iBb.-bro.. ~ n gre"1n ...... ~r:e ·pith a :plaid border, 'i'h:U dress is the last i:r.. the collect.. ion to be made entirely by hs_ncl,

A3IGAllJ PO"\-;"Ep,S FII.LI,~OR'S (Hrs. Millard Fillli:ore) First Lady_, 1850-1853.

Lavender tn.:f.'!"c-La dress trir:ii:ed vri th !lE.l.tching flounce broc2.Cl.ed in a lavender and v.'llite florci desi;;n. The handkerch.ief :.1 ing is an int.ere:3ting co.:.tu.me accessory of the period •

..TAHE A.PPLE::'Q!'; ?IE"~CE ( t

Dress made of blc,ck tv.lle emb::colcl:erecl '1-dth silver th:te.e..a. over ble.ck tafl.'eta. A tulle and. silver· jacket

72-2hl7 HA-qRIEr LAlrE JOEHSTOiii U:rs. [en::y Elliott J o!msto~1) Niece of Pre.s:Ldent ~fe.r:1es Buchc.rw.n and }?irst Le.dy, . ,_, 1857-1861. f. \led ding go·,:;:l 1:1.ade of wh.i te moire taffeta. 'l1he bcxlj ce :Ls trillll1:ed 1-:i t11 \.'1d.te satin ancl Rose Point lace .

• 1-~iltHY 101Jr~ LI··~8CLN (!~~·~s. l~b~·e.... l(""lJ IJlllC'C,ln) First Lady: 1861-.:.S65.

Pur'};llc vc-}vet cL.·r::~;s :r;.o·::_y::;d v:L'.:n Hhite uat-:n a::·J t-:-·h.:r:1ed with blacl.-.: e.lY1 ·w~1i".:e 13.ce aivJ net, Tbe m::.·t..:!hing fan we.s o···'1e:d b:,.· :ii.1.·s, L:Lnccln. '

~·~ r.\ ~ J...L o."Jo. fJ2Vid. First Lady, JA65-1S69 Daugt1t·2r of Preoidcnt An:irC:',· Jolmson

'\.loolen clo':lk in t.he st;;'le of 2.n Arabian bm·nous orn'>r;entei \·Ti th goJ d cre.:tJ cmd tt~fiSCls. A dre:::s ti0:rn 0/ Hrs. Patterson has not bef·n locA.teiJ..

·"<·Jt_Tr,,.iJ._; .J-.A D_-;.-:-,,;:mL:.....~ J. '-"r'.R'~_i\JTTll. Ll"~ .. , (!.',·•··.c:... ~....,. Ul"""'~'"..._": ~V....;_,;j iJc t \J.L."'·nt;' Ci1. J First LadyJ 1869-1877.

Inaugur::11 BG.ll gown -.;o.rn in 1873 and made of silver bro~ade gh·en to Mrs. Gra:rt. by the E:r·pe:·or of China. The 1.:-.ce fichu was worn to the fir at Inaugu.Tal Ball in 1869.

72-2421 LUCY WEBB Hl.:,_YES (Mrs. Rut1wrford B. Hayes) First Lady, 1877-1881.

Dress >lorn to a 'White B:ou.se dinner given tn hone-r of the Grand Du:{.e Alexis of Russia in l8T7. This ele.bon-'.!:.c: dr"=ss of the bustle period is n..a.de of ivory and gc•ld troc&ded taffeta and ivory satin w::..th lace, fringe, and bead tri!IL.'T!in;:;s.

72-2422 *LUCRL'riA RUDOLPH G.".RFIELD (Mrs. James A. Garfield) First Lady, 1831.

DYess made of 1avcncler--gray s<1tin trimmed -with ribbo:1s; ruching and flounces of Brus::w1c point lace. Worn to the Ina1.1gu.ral Ball held at tr1e Smithsonian Institution.

.72-2423 M.A..t'1Y .A.RrHUR HcELROY (l1rs. J"ohn McElroy) Sister of President Chester A. !.J.·thur and I'irst Lady, 1881-1835.

Satin da:nas:t dress vi th a ::1orning glory desj gn ar>...d trimmed with sequins and steel and jet beads. The c·J.gj_nal g-re.y color of the go-wn has ru.el1ot~ecl to an off-irh:i.te. -

• 72-24<-::';. I~C;S :-~ _7; I -'·~t;...f<~rL. (~I F:v!::~-;4~8 Ststt.:.1'" o~f Prcf.r t~~ _. .:..: Grov t".r C1~--relc... -:.(~ &r.t.l J7~L.r·,:)t Lr-dy· .. 1·3>3 )-18-86.

DI'Ct:: s m l\e ""-~ 1 g:; .-:~net. :3ll~: ·v r:-!l vt=t 1. itl1 J.?E.Df~l s C'f pinl~. fc-.:ll1r:~ 1.r.1 ..:;i} .,{.;,.r (.1.r:d. f~~c-~__ .·: br·1.id tr-);nf ,

-"C;"FO:: ..1. .,-_; ~'"'~.."1" R!L:\hTSOY (;'Fs, I~enj&m:tn Harrison) Fi~~~ ~r~J, lqclS-J392.

In~~l,E6l.t -··-·t r~-J-~:. g~:;;.

rMA.lY EAJ,;uso:; XcK~;:-.: (Hrs. J~mes R. McKee) Daughter of Pres.LC.ent Bsnjaain Harrison and First LadyJ 1892-1893-

IrtaU[)'l.1 ~"'""-:~J fiCJ•"'!' rr~~::'j(" oil ps..r\~ ... l.,.u.:!nt-color r:ut_•~n broce~..fl:.;,J ¥J:l:'C1l a goJde!P'od clE:s i:g>.l j_n olive and gold. 'rne gc,ld ta"f1-::ta s~i:::.·t p1.nels ~~L1~::. Lhe a:rrl e-gr ;e:~ ':el·;et ned~ ancl sleeve ej_g:Ing are tri::::rr:c::c. 'lith emLer &.a'l sil ve:r be:::ds. Tne underskirt is arpJ e-gr~~e1:. vel vet.

72-2427 FRAHC~S fO~S0'-1 CL:SVI:T.JAJd) (l..t,r::;. Grover Clevelancl) First Lsdy ~ 1886~·1839 e:::vi 1893-1897.

Dress I','' 1e of blecl sat::u a1:d. iridescent taffeta trim:red wtth jet beads, bl.s.(!~~ sequ!_ns, e.~lc1. a black overlay broc'ade . A band oi:~ fu:::- borc:e:r. s the skirt •

., ··D, fl C' AV~cn•r l ,~.,rTr·- v··· (\1-c 72-242() J... .. t.Jli..i'.. l·Jd .. ll_.._._ _ _ .u.J _1 i _.._ ..:> e First Ld/ly; l-39'('-1981.

Inaugu.re.1 fall gmm made of heo.v:r >

(~1rs. Theciiore Roosevelt)

Dress uoro to the: Ine.11{;'Jr.8~ B~tll in 19\.!5. ~~ade of rob:!_n 1 s ee:c-; blue :;s.t.in or·.Jr~n.cie:'i u:tt.L 2.. cieg~~gn of s<~alloys and gold l'in-;:l•c·f': Ls of ostrich feather.:;. Ti1e painted paper fa..'1

bej__o:1c,ed to 1~~1~c l' 1-Zoose .....relt. 'l }

• ( .i.'""l"~ 1.. 0.

Ina~g:Jrrtl ~~r.11 sovn ~:;f tl1-:-~ I·~~L::Lte :r"c~·..-~L"··:;..l st~yJ_c r.u'"ll:f} of 1:;hite ri.1k cl1i:.~fc1~ ei?"tlY~~Lic: l"E·l ir ~Tt~)?(!.11 ~-if:.t:' e~L::"O ..':..d.e;. .... :.: Js P,. ·.pJ.tte:r.~n of· goldnrlr):l 11 s~;:_,.rer tl":t:"t.:..i ._-~n(: c~ ... :yst~-.11 he~ts. L~ce trinr the b~dic&. ~ EIJT_.~~l'~ P~x~~o:~r \·Ji..:l.SJI·J (:,.~--~-.• ~lcal:.:·o: ,·!11[)C·n) First ::,acly) iS'J.:l-1915.

Dres~ 115..de of W~'..i tr: .. .rel vet broc..:.1.f~.. .::ci "'\\1 J~ ~:h u" rose dPsi~0 over an u.nu~..:.·i" .. c·J:~~.rt 01... "Yiill:lte G.J.tilt u.11cl la.cc:. Tr'1In:n·_ d. \;lth n_e~, rh.-~!1esto"'""'.t.t?{.:._t ste~~ b(~ad~-:;, sccC.. 1;earls nrLcl large be.ru:l.-ue peurls.

EDTIH !JOLLllJG \\TJJ"J5mi (Mrs. Hoo<:~:ro11 HE son) Secor::.d ·,:ife of' I'resid•~nt Hoclro~<~ Wilson and Fir·1t Lady, 1915-1921.

Dress uorn on the trip to the Peace Co~1ferenr.e in Paris in 1918. The skirt an(: t1:e tunic ovcrdre;:os are r:t:::::!.e of

blac>~ vel·veL \~J.th -:..~w_le sleeve;) (lild nec}·~l.i.ne t TrJn~ed with jet se~.tJim;: b;:.~.cl tassels u.nd gre::m beads.

72-2433 FLOR':l-:CE KLII!G :tii'L>illi~;G (Hrs. i-iarrev_ G, Farding) First Lady 1 1921-1923'.

Dress ne.de of >!hite ss.t::i.n trimr:ed ivith nE:c, rh:Lnesco;1es> crystal bec.ds, aLJ baroque pea.rls. The ,.-tite sD.t.-ilt ·tn'.~n is trh·.rted ·.:ith bla.ck net. Worn to a rece:p~,.ion d.+, ·t.he

Pan Ar:erJcan Buj_lding jr: \

GRACE C-OODiri}L co:::n:..ID\~:8 (Mr:::.: ) First Lady, 1923-1929.

P.ose ~;-,if:'on velvet dress of the fla:p:yer :pcricx:-;, tri;'lr.ned with a rhinestone belt.

~{2-2435 LOU liEI·:RY HOOVER (Mrs. Herbert Heaver) First; La,dy > 1929-1933 .

Pale gl.·een satin dress '.lith rhinestone s:coulder clip~:. T1:e sil 'ter .f'illgree lorgr;.ette 1-JI:lS e.lso O".:necl by i;lrs. HoeNer,

• 72· 2h_n DF[:~S ,JI~LI.-1 CFr 11Rl {;JJ (i-~!r~~. Hr.r?::y S. r_r[w":._=til) Fir?t I ?.l:t; 1911.:; .. : 953,

G01-s-rr1 Ira-~.e of Si:__C£~~ .s-r:ay mol.~=> ~e1i11:; de S01L. ov·ei"' lie;hJc gray ta.ff'c La nd. ;:!-. :: tc mvuc ;cJ. ir.e d.; z::d.e. Worn to a State dln. !E-'r givc·~l :·or· Q,.1e>·:~il ,Jul.:.c.nn. of tlw lTetJ•erland.s in 195i~.

·XJ.rNUE DJUD E:WS:mmr;;.::_>i (J.t;rs. D-wisht D. E1::-~e:nb:::·t!•.:l') First Lady, 1953-1961

Inaugm·al Ba.1.1 0:Jwn >wrn in 1953. Made of Re:-'oJr pj_rok peau de soie enibro5..c1 ered u i th p.l.r;J.<: :::-h:LneE> '.:on :::3. Accc:nps.nied.

1 -by mG.tcl1ing glov·es 1 s1 -Je3 E~n.d. ar.:. e·\rcrling bac tr.irllned lV~~_th piriL. l~hin<~stcn~s, pea2~1:3 arid ·bends"

72-21~39 7.·Jl.CQtrsr,IN.E b')lT":lTER KENiiEDY (Kc.:;. ,Joru: F. Kennedy) First Lwly, lS--61-1963.

Inaug-ural B8.ll gown and cr-.,:;e rr.::-;.de of \!hite peau d 1 ar..ge veiled vitl1 Hhite chiffon. The bod:i.ce is trirrz·:::d 1-;i-':;b silver embro~d.e1J.

CL~lfDIA (L:WY BIRD) T<:ylor ,Johnson (lltrs. Lyndon B. JoJ.1.Dso,1) First LaC.y, 1963-1'169. .

Dress and co<:.t ensc;c:b2.e worn to the Ina'.'gurr 1 Ball in 1965. Hade o.::· j onq_ui l yellov dcuble-~rovc:n sat .in. The coat is tri:.•:Dec1 \li ti1 nature.l sable cuffs.

}.'1"S 0 l' H v,-.n) 72-2h41 *PA':'RICIA R.YX'f ND~o·r ( --...... L fl J.. 'I. c"ardJ.l. _ _...... ~r.; ... .;J' ... ,_. ·- First Lady, 1969 ...

Inaugural Ball go;m and. jacJ-:et m2..0.e of mimosa yellm< silk satin Hith the jac:>;.et, colle>.r arrrl cu.mmer1Yi.lrd he~vlily embro"ich:red vith B~rc·~nt:ine scroll.:; of gol£:!. and :3ilver bullion and hD:.1·:l.-sst Austri::::.n CIJ'S-';;al jcFels.

-)(·Inaugural gmm ('

/

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

PH

Processing fees for black and white photographs ar~ listed on the attached photographic services infonnation sheet. The fee for color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with a $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides with a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please refer all questions concerning photographic orders to the Photographic Services Division.

Dress b~: worn Negative No. ------Slide No. Martha Washington (Mrs. George Washington) ...... 57614 72-2401 Abigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams) ...... 57615 72-2402 Shawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thanas Randolph), daughter of President ...... 57616 72-2403 Dolley Madison (Mrs. Jrures Madison) ...... 57617 72-2404 Elizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. Jrures Monroe) Courtesy of the President James Monroe Museun, Fredericksburg, Va ...... 57618 72-2405 Marie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur), daughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the President James Monroe Musetml, Fredericksburg, Va ...... 57619 72-2406 Louisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams) ...... 57620 72-2407 *Ehlily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson), niece of President Andrew Jackson ...... 57621 72-2408 Sarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr. ) , wife of adopted son of President Andrew Jackson ...... 57622 72-2409 Angelica Singleton Van Buren (Mrs. Abram Van Buren), daughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren ...... 57623 72-2410 *Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. Jrures Findlay), hostess for President William Henry Harrison ...... 57624 72-2411 Julia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. ) ...... 57625 72-2412 *Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk) ...... 57626 72-2413 Betty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of President ...... 57627 72-2414 Abigail Powers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore) ...... 57628 72-2415 Jane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Frankl1n Pierce) ...... 57629 72-2416

• -2-

PHar

--Oompiled by the Division of Political History, The National Museum of History and Technology, Smithsonian Institution Washington, D.C. 20560

*Inaugural dresses

Leaflet 73-l Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, 0. C. 20560

ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT GIDRGE WASHINGTON

MARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON

~'.fartha Dandridge was born on a large plantation on the Pamunkey River in

·:irginia on June 21 of the year 1731. She was the oldest child of

John Dandridge and Frances Jones Dandridge.

Martha had no formal education, but until she was 15 years old her days were filled with lessons in housekeeping, music, dancing and sewing. She

entered society in the town of Williamsburg at the age of 15 and was a reigning belle until she married Daniel Parke Custis, a wealthy planter with a fortune in

lands, slaves and money, in 1749. At his death a few years later, Martha was left a wealthy widow with two small children.

A year after the death of her husband, Martha Custis first met Colonel

George Washington, just returned from the Braddock campaign and already well known and respected in his native state. They were married in 1759. The bride is described at this time as short, slight with brown hair and brown eyes.

George Washington and his wife, Martha, with the two young Custis children,

settled down at Mount Vernon where they lived the leisurely attractive life customary of the Virginia planter. Their home became famous throughout Virginia for its hospitality, with Martha as its hostess.

At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, George Washington became the general of the Continental Army and Martha Washington began her life as wife of a public servant. She followed her husband into camp

• Martha Dand:ddge Custis Washington page 2

during the long winters o~ the war, returning to Mount Vernon during

the summer campaigns. Her dignity and courage were an inspiration

to her husband and his troops and she contributed materially to

the comfort o~ the small army whenever she was in camp.

General and Mrs. Washington returned to Mount Vernon at the end

,~;J· the war to resume the q_uiet, leisurely li~e they enjoyed at their

home. But again Washington was called to serve his country, and Martha Washington became the wi~e o~ the ~irst President o~ the

United States. Lacking precedent ~or her manner o~ entertaining,

Mrs. Washington settled many q_uestions o~ o~~icial etiq_uette with common sense and dignity. She received her guests seated at her weekly receptions, and it is thus we find her presented in our collection.

Accounts o~ Mrs. Washington describe her as a short person, with white powdered hair, wearing ~ine clothes o~ satins, silks, and velvets, who had the ability to give a homelike charm to the most ~ormal occasion. Martha Washington was not sorry to step down ~rom her position ~ter eight years, as, she had ~elt as First Lady "more like a state prisoner than anything else."

The last years o~ her li~e were spent at Mount Vernon, surrounded by her husband and grandchildren but acting even then as a gracious hostess ~or the ma~y visitors who came to pay their respects to her husband. The three years o~ her li~e which ~ollowed the death o~ George Washington were spent at Mount Vernon in virtual retirement, and she was laid to rest at his side in 1802.

Leaflet 72-24

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

DRESS OF MARTHA DANDRIDGE CUSTIS WASHINGTON

First Lady 1789-1797

The dress which was worn by Martha Washington, the first of our

Presidential Hostesses, is made of faille in the more conservative style of the late eighteenth century. It has a voluminous skirt and a tightfitting bodice which laces down the back. The low neckline of the dress is edged with an inch width of fine lace. Around the shoulders of the figure is a soft, white shawl of Mechlin lace, and she wears lace mitts on her hands. As Mrs. Washington was accustomed to wearing a

"Mob Cap" to all social functions, she is represented in this collection with one of white lace on her head.

The material of this dress, which was probably purchased in London, is salmon pink in color and the faille is hand-painted with a black-white ribbon chain which forms medallion spaces all over the dress. Each medallion is joined to the next with a emerald green square. In the larger of the medallions are painted native wild flowers of North America--the violet, buttercup, daisy, morning-glory, arbutus; and in the smaller spaces are painted insects such as the grasshopper, spider, fly, ladybug and the wasp.

Mrs. Washington holds in her hands a brown satin bag which she made and which is embroidered in ribbon work. The name ''Mrs. Washington" in old-fashioned script is worked across the front of the bag.

Leaflet 72-30

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT

OOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON

Dolley Payne was born in l772 in North Carolina, the second chi 1 d of John an

Quaker when she was nineteen years old - John Todd, a rising lawyer in Philadelphia. For three short years she lived the quiet secluded life of' a Quaker wife and mother, and then in 179j John Todd died in a yellow fever epidemic _leaving Dolley a widow with a small son.

Meanwhile Philadelphia had become the capital of the newly formed

United States and Philadelphia streets were crowded with strangers, the great and near great concerned with the management of the country.

No wonder the young wirow attracted attention, as she is described as having laughing Irish blue eyes, curling black hair, and warm-hued skin.

She attractec: none other than the "great little Madison", one

• -2-

of the most talented members of the Congress and a statesman of

wealth and social position. They were married in 1794 at the residence

of Dolley's young sister in Virginia. The bride was 23 at that time,

and her husband was over 20 years older. The wedding took place with

the approval and best wishes of President and Mrs. Washington and other

leaders of the young country who were particularly interested in

Mr. Madison's career.

Dolley, her young son and new husband went immediately to

'~ontpelier", the Madison estate in Virginia, where they lived a quiet,

leisurely life until 1801, when James Madison wa~ called to Washington

to be Secretary of State for President Thomas Jefferson. Already Dolley's popularity was established with her Virginia kin and the trip to

Washington included visits at mauy of the homes at which she was so welcome. In Washington the Madison home quickly became the center of

society for that gay city. Blessed with a desire to please and a willingness to be pleased, she was soon loved by everyone and political

quarrels were soothed by her gracious tact.

As President Jefferson's daughters were often not available to hostess at the White House, Mrs. Madison presided over many of the

receptions and formal dinners and Mr. Jefferson greatly depended on her

for assistance. In 1809 James Madison succeeded Jefferson as President and Dolley Madison moved into the White House as First Lady. The eight years of the administration which followed were years of stately gaiety and a perpetual round of parties. Dolley was 37 years old, still young in appearance and well accomplished in social knowledge .

• Dolley Payne Todd Madison - 3 -

She had discarded Quaker dress many years before and she now dressed handsomely and "in the mode". Mrs. , entertaining chronicler of early Washington society, writes of her as follows:

"She looked like a Queen...... It would be absolutely impossible for anyone to behave with more perfect propriety than she did. Unassuming dignity, sweetness and grace. She really in manner and appearance answered all my ideas of royalty".

Dolley Madison's popularity withstood the increasing political animosities of the last administration of her husband and the troubled years of the . Though she was forced to flee from the

White House before an invading.army, she returned to the city and the administration closed in a blaze of social glory.

The Madisons returned to Montpelier and lived there until the death of President Madison in 1836. The next winter Dolley Madison returned to Washington and again her home became one of the centers of

society in that city. She retained her great papularity to the end of her life, and she died loved and respected by all in 1849.

The record made by the delightful personality of this unusual woman has endured even to this day. She remains for each generation

one of the best known and best loved First Ladies of the White House.

Leaflet 72-25 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, 0. C. 20560

DRESS OF DOLLEY PAYNE TODD MADISON

First Lady, 1809-1817

Dolley Madison wore this dress in 1816 at a New Year's Day reception held in their temporary home in Washington, D. c., at

19th and Pennsylvania Avenue, N. W. during the reconstruction of the White House. Her dress was described by Mrs. Benjamin

Crowninshield, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, as " yellow satin embroidered all over with sprigs of butterflies, not two alike in the dress; a narrow border in all colors; made high- in-the-neck; a little cape, long sleeves and a white bonnet with feathers." The exquisite multicolor Chinese embroidery also includes insects and flowers. This dress exemplifies the Empire style worn in the United States in the first quarter of the 19th Century.

Leaflet 72-31 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT ABRAHAM LINCOLN

MARY TODD LINCOLN

Mary Todd was born in Lexington, in 1818, daughter of pioneer settlers of the Blue Grass State. Her father, Robert Smith Todd, was a leading citizen of his community. Her mother died when Mary was 7, and her father married again in a short time. Mary had the advantages of a nice home and pleasant social life and she was well educated in private schools.

As she grew up, she was described by her companions as '~ivacious, nervous, impulsive, excitable, with a cha~ing personality, marred only by cutting sarcastic wit which cut deeper than she intended". It was said that she had clear blue eyes, long lashes, light brown hair with a glint of bronze, and a lovely complexion.

When Mary Todd was 21 years old she went to Springfield, Illinois to live with her sister, Mrs. . Here she met Abraham Lincoln, and two years later after a stormy courtship and broken engagement, they were married.

Though the two were opposite in many ways, there was always between them the strong~ie of their mutual ambitions. The years in Springfield brought hard work, a family of boys, and reduced family circumstances to the pleasure-loving girl who had never felt responsibility before. Under the stress, there appeared the first signs of mental disability that in later years changed her whole personality.

• Administration of President Abraham Lincoln -2-

The Lincoln's first home was a room in a boarding house in Springfield.

After a year there, and another year in a rented home, they moved into a modest house of their own, the famous house on 8th Street, in which they

lived until they left Springfield in 1861.

In 1846 Abraham Lincoln was elected to Congress and Mary and the

children spent a winter with him in Washington. It was her first taste of

Washington social life although, as wife of a poor Congressman from the

West with two small children, there was not much opportunity for her to

enjoy it. Lincoln returned to hi~ law practice in Springfield after the

next election.

He was back in politics in 1858, helping to form the new Republican

party and he ran in the Illinois Senatorial race that year against

Stephen DOuglas. Though Lincoln lost the election, he made some valuable

contacts and the series of debates, to which he had challenged Douglas, made

him well known both in the party and in the nation. In 186o Abraham Lincoln

was chosen as Republican nominee for President of the United States and he

won the election. The faith of the young Mary Todd in the future of the man

she had chosen as her husband was amply justified.

The years Mrs. Lincoln spent in the White House were not happy ones,

though the position fulfilled her high social ambitions. It was not easy

for the woman who had been Mary Todd of Kentu~ to make a place in Washington

during the Civil War years, despite her ample social qualifications, because

in a city of Southerners she was scorned as a traitor to her Southern birth.

Domestic bereavement and the horrors of war robbed the White House of many

• Administration of President Abraham Lincoln -3-

social pleasures. Apparently to co~pensate for the frustrations of her social life, Mrs. Lincoln started an orgy of spending which laSted for the whole four years and for which she was widely criticized.

When President Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, Mary Todd Lincoln was shattered in mental and physical health and the next 17 years held nothing but sorrow for her. With her son Tad she traveled constantly in search of health and peace of mind, tortured with distorted ideas of her financial

situation. After Tad's untimely death in 1871, she slipped over into a world of illusion in which she was always pursued by fear of poverty and

assassination. A misunderstood and tragic figure, she passed away in 1882

at her sister's home in Springfield, Illinois, the same house from which

she had walked as the bride of Abraham Lincoln, 4o years before.

Leaflet 72-26 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

DRESS OF MARY TODD LINCOLN

First Lady, 1861-1865

The dress of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln is made of royal purple velvet with the tight bodice and full skirt of the hoop-skirt period.

Mrs. Lincoln's fondness for clothes is displayed in the excellent tasteshe used in selecting her wardrobe. Shades of lavender and purple were her favorite colors and this dress is of a deep, rich hue. The seams of the dress, skirt and bodice, the hem of the skirt, and the bottom of the bodice are piped with narrow white satin cord.

The neck of the dress is trimmed with an elaborate fichu of black

Alencon lace with a white edge and the short puffed sleeves are made of white net and Alencon lace.

Accompanying this dress is a fan made of purple taffeta and a purple parasol, which was carried with the dress, is also displayed in the case. The parasol was an indispensible accessory of dress of the period and seldom did a lady go for a promenade or a drive without her tiny parasol.

The wreath of flowers which encircles the head of Mrs. Lincoln's figure recalls her favorite style of coiffure.

Leaflet 72-32 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

ADMINISTRATION OF CALVIN COOLIDGE

GRACE GOODHUE COOLIDGE

Grace Goodhue was born in Burlington, Vermont in 1879 the daughter of

Andrew and Lemira B. Goodhue. Her childhood, that of an only child, was uneventful in the little Green Mountain town. It was at this time she first heard of a school for teaching deaf children in Northampton, Massachusetts from one of her father's friends and she determined to share this charitable work. Toward this end she attended the , from which she graduated in 1902 with her degree. She went to Northampton that same year to teach at the Clarke School for.the Deaf.

Calvin Coolidge met Grace Goodhue when she was a teacher at Clarke

School, when she was just in her early twenties, a lovely girl. They met casually, went to the same boating, picnicking, dancing, whist-club set, composed largely of members of the Congregational Church. They became engaged in the early summer of 1905 and were married in October. For nearly a year the Coolidges lived in a boarding house, then they moved into half of a double house two weeks before their first baby was born. Mrs. Coolidge ran the little house herself, doing all her own housework, and she budgeted I household expenses well within the income of a struggling young lawyer in a small town.

To may be credited a full and proper share in her husband's rise in politics. She worked hard, kept up appearances, did her part in

• Grace Goodhue Coolidge -2- town activities, attended her church and played the game of the politician's wife. She supplemented her husband's natural shyness with a gay friendliness and managed the social life of the small family to offset the lack of social graces enjoyed by Mr. Coolidge.

Four years later another son was born to the Coolidges, while Calvin

Coolidge was Mayor of Northampton. While he was a member of the State

Legislature and State Senate, and later as Lieutenant , the Coolidge family remained in their small home in Northampton, while Calvin rented a dollar and a half room in Boston and came home on weekends. When he was elected Governor, he continued to follow the same routine, as Massachusetts was without an . On high days and holidays, Mrs. Coolidge came down to Boston, but for the most part she remained in Northampton with her boys. ·

They were still living in their duplex apartment in Northampton when they went to Washington in 1921, when Calvin Coolidge was elected Vice President of the United States. As wife of the Vice President, Grace Coolidge went from the quiet life of a housewife to which she was accustomed into the complexity of Washington social life, and she adapted herself so quickly that she became the most popular woman in the nation's capital. Much of her popularity was due to her warm friendliness, her zest for life, and her innate simplicity. She was quite a pretty woman, with sparkling brown eyes and brown hair, a nice figure, and a pleasant smile.

With the death of President Harding in 1923, Grace Goodhue Coolidge became the wife of the President of the United States and the First Lady of

• Grace Goodhue Coolidge -3- the White House. The social life of the White House instituted by Mrs. Coolidge was simple but dignified. Her time and her friendliness now belonged to the nation and she was generous with both. Even under the sorrow of the sudden and tragic death of her youngest son at the age of 14, she remained strong and heroic, never allowing her personal grief to interfere with her duties as First Lady. Her charm, tact and gaiety made Mrs. Coolidge one of the most popular hostesses of the White House, and she left Washington in 1929 with the nation's respect and love.

When the Coolidges left the White House they returned to their duplex house in Northampton. Mrs. Coolidge resumed her church activities, was associated with the Red Cross and other organized community enterprises.

They later· bought a large house on the outskirts of the town, a place known as "The Beeches". In 1931 Mrs. Coolidge was voted one of .America's greatest living women, and she was presented a gold medal by the National Institute of Social Sciences for her "fine personal influence exerted as First Lady of the Land". Calvin Coolidge died at "The Beeches" in 1933.

Mrs. Coolidge maintained her home on the outskirts of Northampton until her death in 1957.

Leaflet 72-27 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

DRESS OF MRS. CALVIN COOLIDGE

First Lady, 1923 - 1929

The dress which represents the administration of Calvin Coolidge in the collection is typical of the style of the period in which the dress was worn.

'The only representati Je of the flapper period in the First Ladies' collection,

Mrs. Coolidge's dress always causes much comment among visitors to the Museum.

The bodice of the dress is perfectly plain with a low neckline and with the waistline lowered almost to the hips. The low waistline is encircled by a rhinestone belt which buckles at the front of the dress. The bodice blouses out a bit at the waist. The skirt is made of three tiers of velvet. The pointed train, which is yards long from the shoulder straps, adds to the formal appearance of the dress.

This dress is one of the most typical of the period of fashion it represents in the whole collection. American women, at this time, dressed in short dresses for all occasions and evening dresses did not become ankle length again until the 1930's. Mrs. Coolidge's good taste is displayed in the truly lovely quality and color of the rose chiffon velvet out of which the dress is made. The slippers which were worn with the dress are o~ the same rose velvet with gold heels and rhinestone buckles. Mrs. Coolidge placed her Pi Beta Phi Sorority pin upon the left breast of the figure soon after the dress was installed in the case.

In 1945 Mrs. Coolidge sent to the Museum a string of pearls and an ecru lace handkerchief to improve the installation of the dress. Leaflet 72-33

• ...

r'-'• 20~60

/

,

Anna Eleanor Roosevelt; vas born in New Yor1::. Ctty in P38!·. ~]Je vas the

4 daughter of Elliott Roosevelt, 11 younger brother of President Theodore Roose\"E' 1 ;.,;

t..nd Anna Hall . Eleanor ';<;L.S c

111·11~·.-tard shyness vhich set h2:::- aps:t ;froill her clistingccished, elegant tJ.-rld cha.J.~,u:i.ng

fa:nily. Wllen her mothe1· clied in 1892, the childre:1 uent to lj_ve with Gra::rl~other

Hall and her father died only t1.:o y·~<:.rs later. Fro::J. that time young Klz:anor 1 <>

companions were her aunts and uncles, years older thew she, ;-rtthout much

CO-":lpe..nionship of child1·en her mm age. Most of her ele::nentar:r educn:::;:Lo!l ',>)as

received at home, and \

Eleanor's first chance to develop -without the constant r:uper·.risicYJ. of her fa.iiil:".

Her confidence r;rev >lith her contact vrith other sirls and she learned to widen

her activitie~; ancl interests until she becB.l"'!le interested in everyor:_e an.d

everythiag.

The return to America after graduatior;. brought :Eleanor bc:.c}; to e. life

circumscribed by the :interest of l':el: York society ·· a life :i.n Hhich she fou::J.Ci.

little interest and plcastrre. Among her fe1>· close frier..ds 118.3 a distant cousin,

Franklin Delano Roosevelt, whom she remembered from childhood :partj_es. In the

Autumn of 1903, h'hen El(::e..nor W3.S nj_neteen, she and Frar-J.klin bcca,-;;e engazed.. , r. , " . '

• -.

Secrets.":y of the Ha.•;ry in 19J 3.

and. her noe ial

Mrs. Roose·v-el t 1 s enert;y <;.nd tiru.e l!C.re devoted to her h·Js1):C.il<1' s ecce. Jn

effort to e.wakc.n his interest in politics ae:ain, she beca::te c:te"..;:iv-e :L:::t the -rro:n.c;-.: 1 s

l.inlon.

futner 1 s illtL'ss.

and -was electu1 Governor of I'ic'lo.' Yorl:. in 1923.

death, Ivi.rr::.

I ' ,_becnu:e eyes J ears 1 anJ. legs for him, a trustC'd. and tireless reiJorcc~r. ' ' L sodal ·vork e;ontinucd with tlte esta1J.~sb1er1~ of the \~~,l :=::.11 :f\u:nitur·: f&ct;or:..­

Hyde ?b..:·k to [:i.ve errployn:ent to rru.::n of the l;.f.i:::;1'·ooxh;.:.;d cnl at /at 1 ~-~;e becE~::::

• -3-

re.furr1.

This m~de her a tempting targe:t ror enemies of her husuand_, hut hcT integrity) h~'~' sraciousness, a.nJ her sincerity of :purpose endeared her :pe:csom~lly to thousandF of pe:csc,ns e.J 1 over t' e globe.

with the ch:<.r1:1ing friendliness ancl experiellce e.cqu2.:c:::;cl dtiTing her husrmna 's distine:ui.shed career.

During 1dorld 'dar II Elea:1o::.- Huoserel t 1 s duties included an offic::~ul o.::i t.:i.l... as assistant :b.rector of tl:e Office of Civilj_an Defense J e::r:p::d.i 'u1 r.;:o.;::, to ,,-::_;:, i'c servtce r:1en (Jll t·Ho war fronts, and actirlg l1ostes~~ of tbe Vlh:J_te: :;c1..:se d.urlng visits from politicJJ.l and milits.ry leaders of our allies.

Mrs. Roosevelt left the \·mite House in 1945 aft'~r her l1usb;::~nd's death and returned to a s~nF.:.ll horne lvhich slle ma:intc'.inecl on the_ Hyde Pn.rk e:;tate, she continued to be influentia.l in man:; refo~n moverne!lts. In 19~. 5 she vo.s eppo:i..nterJ U.S. :;:-epresentative in the general B.Gsembly o:::· tile Ur..i ted Nl:'.tj_ons

I

• Anna El•::en~_:,r noosevGlt

of t,he

F:r.'esid.cxc.s Etsenllaw2r and Truman ,~rere at her burie1, an honc'~aole test:l.rr,cn.i.a} to Nrs. Eo0sevel t 's hLL"llani ta:r-ic.n contributions.

Leaflet 72-28 ~uithsonian Institution

)

• '

Mrs. Hoosevel t is rt.:prec:entcd :Ln our collcc.t:i.on by her thinl inaugural gm.;n: a regG. .L loo~;.ing dress r:..e.d.-=: of 1W.2~m tint·:::d satin.

rrne color Of tlJis go-Hn var l2f; fro;n ivor r to a de'<::p :peach CC'lOl" 7 according to the 1isht ia 1-:hich it is vie~-JeJ.. 'I'hc skh·t is cut on the bi

Leaflet 72-3l; SmittJsonlan Institution

J

• THE GOWN OF MRS. DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER

as displayed in the United States National Museum Smithsonian Institution

By MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR

[Supplement to 'The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House," by Margaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.)

SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 1958

• ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER

MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER

AMIE GENEVA Douo, the second child up the ladder for her husband, with increas­ M of John Sheldon Doud and Elivera ing duties and responsibilities for her. Their Carlson Doud, was born on November 14, first child, a son, who was born in San An­ 1896, in the town of Boone, Iowa, where her tonio in September 1917 and named Doud father was in the livestock commission busi­ Dwight, died of scarlet fever in 1921 when ness. When she was nine months old the the Eisenhowers were stationed at Camp family moved to Cedar Rapids, where she Meade, Md. The second boy, John Sheldon spent her earliest childhood and started Doud Eisenhower, was born in Denver in school. 1922 during his father's tour of duty in In 1904, when Mamie was still a little girl, Panama. her father retired and the family moved to By 1941 Eisenhower was a colonel, and Pueblo, Colo., settling in Denver in 1905 promotions came quickly after the war in a substantial brick house on Lafayette started. During her husband's duty at the Street. Mamie received her elementary edu­ Pentagon early in the war, Mamie moved to cation at a public school and then attended Washington. When he went overseas to as­ Miss Walcott's, a private school for the sume the command of the European Theater daughters of Denver's families. of Operations, she took a small apartment in In 1910 Mr. and Mrs. Doud took the fam­ the Capital for the duration of the war. ily to San Antonio, Tex., for the winter, in The Eisenhowers remained in the Wash­ the hope that the milder climate would be ington area until his retirement from the beneficial to Mamie's older sister. They liked Army in 1948. They then spent two years in that city so well that they took a house there New York while General Eisenhower served for their winter residence. It was in San An­ as President of Columbia University. It was tonio in October 1915 that Mamie Doud met during this period that they purchased the Dwight D. Eisenhower, a young second lieu­ farm at Gettysburg, Pa., which was the first tenant who was serving his first tour of duty home they had ever owned and a source of at Fort Sam Houston. She was a pretty and joy and relaxation to them during the ensu­ popular young girl of eighteen. It was not wg years. .. long, however, until "Ike" Eisenhower was a In January 1951 General Eisenhower was favorite not only with Mamie but with her assigned the command of NATO forces in family, too, and on St. Valentine's Day 1916 France. Mamie was again confronted with they became officially engaged. They were the problem of making a home in a foreign married at the Doud home in Denver on July country. At the villa at Marnes La Coquette 1, 1916. she assumed the duties of hostess to promi­ For many years 's life nent people from all over the world and had MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER followed the pattern of other Army wives, at her first experience at entertaining according a succession of Army posts in the continental to diplomatic protocol. The dress Mrs. Eisenhoweri s wearing in this photographi s her secondin augural gown. Photo­ United States, and duty in Panama, France, This was excellent practice for the next graph courtesy of Mrs. Eisenhower. and the , each move another rung assignment, which was as First Lady of the

'-· ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER

White House when Dwight D. Eisenhower formality which often surrounds such func­ was elected President of the United States in tions as state dinners and official receptions. 1953. It is seldom that a First Lady has been The Eisenhowers spend as much leisure time so warmly welcomed by the American people. as possible at their Gettysburg farm. After years of deliberately choosing to stay in Perhaps Mrs. Eisenhower's outstanding the background, Mrs. Eisenhower found her­ characteristic is her femininity, which is evi­ 1 self in the full glare of the spotlight, and she denced in her love of home, her devotion to J reacted with the poise and dignity of one her family, and her interest in clothes. Her well suited to the position. Her genuine lik­ deep blue eyes, brown hair arranged with the ing for people and her evident enjoyment of now famous "Mamie bangs," and vivid smile the many social and official obligations en­ have become as well known to the American deared her to the public. Her friendly per­ public as her husband's familiar smile. sonality and informality help to dispel the

DRESS OF MAMIE DOUD EISENHOWER First Lady of the White House, 1953-

Mrs. Eisenhower's first inaugural ball box tooled in gold with the words "Mamie gown was made by the New York designer Doud Eisenhower, January 20, 1953," in­ Nettie Rosenstein and purchased through scribed on it. Neiman-Marcus of Dallas. It is of peau-de­ The complete ensemble of dress, accesso­ soie, Renoir pink with a mauve undertone, ries, and jewelry was presented to the public embroidered with over 2,000 pink rhine­ for the first time when Mrs. Eisenhower stones. The dress has matching taffeta and opened the First Ladies Hall on May 24, crinoline petticoats under the bouffant skirt. 1955. The ensemble is exhibited in the pe­ The long pink gloves and shoes are of match­ riod setting that represents the East Room of ing fabric. The evening bag, also designed the White House as it has looked during by Nettie Rosenstein, is of matching pink silk most of the twentieth century. The soft pink fabric on a silver frame and is solidly en­ color of the dress looks especially attractive crusted with 3,456 pink rhinestones, pink against the white and gold color scheme that 1 pearls, and beads. predominates in the room. l With the dress Mrs. Eisenhower wore cos­ tume jewelry designed and made for her by ~~~ Trifari. The triple-strand choker necklace is of simulated Orientigue pearls interspersed REFERENCES: with round brilliants that are called rondels. HATCH, ALDEN: Red Carpet for Mamie. Mrs. Eisenhower prefers button earrings, and New York, 1954. these are fashioned like snowflakes. The BRANDON, DOROTHY: Mamie Do11d Eisen­ bracelet is a matching piece. The set was howe1·, A Portrait of a First Lady. Garden presented to her in a satin-lined white-kid City, New York, 1954. THE GOWN OF MRS. JOHN F. KENNEDY

as displayed in the United States National Museum Smithsonian Institution

By MARGARET BROWN KLAPTHOR

[Supplement to "The Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House" by Margaret W. Brown, published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1952.}

SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 1963

• ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT jOHN F. KENNEDY

JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY

ACQUELINE LEE BOUVIER was born on In Washington Jacqueline attended Hoi ton JJuly 28, 1930, in Southampton, Long Is­ Arms for two years; then at the age of fifteen land, N.Y., the first child of John Vernon she went to Miss Porter's School at Farming­ Bouvier III and his attractive wife, Janet ton, Connecticut. She made her debut in the Lee Bouvier. Mr. Bouvier was a member of summer of 1948, the year she graduated from the New York Stock Exchange, and he and Miss Porter's, and was honored with the title his wife lived in New York in the winter and of Debutante of the year. Long Island in the summer. In the fall she entered Vassar College. The • Jacqueline's formal education began when next summer she made the Grand Tour and she was sent to Miss Chapin's School, a New discovered the charms of Europe. In fact, she York private school where she received a was so delighted with her experiences that good basic education. Throughout her school she determined to spend her junior year of days Jacqueline was an exceptionally bright college studying in France at the Sorbonne. student. She learned to read before she was six The year she spent there living with a French years old, and her retentive memory and the family was to have a great influence on her ease with which she absorbed knowledge, life. It gave her a great sympathy for the especially of those subjects in which she was people of foreign countries, especially the interested, made her stand out from her group French, and broadened her cultural tastes and in each successive step of her education. Side interests far beyond those of the average by side with her intellectual development American girl of her age. were her intense interest and increasing pro­ The next year Jacqueline continued her ficiency in horsemanship. Under her mother's college work at George Washington Univer­ expert guidance she began to ride almost as sity, and it was during this year that she won soon as she could walk, and at a very young Vogue magazine's nation-wide Prix de Paris age she was an active and competent par­ contest which offered the winner a six months' ticipant in the many horse shows which were job on Vogue in Paris and a similar time at important to the social life of the Long Island the New York editorial offices. She declined community. the prize because it meant still more time Even during these early years Jacqueline's away from home. interest in the arts was evident. She began to In 1952 Jacqueline became inquiring write poetry and short stories, which she photographer on the Washington Times illustrated with her own imaginative draw­ Herald newspaper. The job required skill with ings. Her interest in the dance was fostered a professional camera, which Jacqueline soon by ballet lessons and a library on the subject acquired, and an ability to stimulate opinions which she had started when she was very on topical questions from persons of every young. age and walk of life on the local Washington In 1942 Jacqueline's mother married Hugh scene. JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY D. Auchincloss, and their winter home be­ In June 1951 Jacqueline met Senator John Photograph by Mark Shaw; courtesy of the White came a handsome estate named Merrywood, F. Kennedy of Massachusetts at a dinner party. House. located in Virginia across the Potomac from She was then twenty-two and the Senator Washington, with summers spent at Ham­ was thirty-five. Despite their mutual interest mersmith Farm in Newport, Rhode Island. in each other, their courtship was complicated ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOHN F. KENNEDY

by the busy careers in which they were in­ who is serving at a time of tense international dividually involved. More than two years crises. Her interest in the arts has inspired an later their large wedding took place at New­ attention to cultural matters never before ex­ port on September 13, 1953. perienced at the national level. She has de­ After her marriage Jacqueline Kennedy voted a great part of her time and energy to adapted herself to the new role of being the the interests of young people and the en­ ] wife of one of the Nation's youngest and most couragement of the arts. As First Lady, she ~t energetic political figures. Their first child, has personally arranged for visiting heads of Caroline, was born in 1957, and the second, state to be entertained in the White House John, Jr., was born after John Kennedy's with programs presented by the finest per­ election to the Presidency in 1960. formers. Noteworthy too is her continuing With the inauguration of President John personal effort to make the White House a F. Kennedy in 1961, Jacqueline Bouvier museum of history and decorative arts as well Kennedy stepped into the most difficult career as a family residence of elegance and charm. of the many which have already enriched her Despite her many private and public in­ life. To the role she has brought beauty, in­ terests Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy today still telligence, and taste. Her knowledge of lan­ considers her role as wife and mother the guages and appreciation of world cultures most important of her many obligations. have been an invaluable asset to a First Lady ~~ DRESS OF JACQUELINE BOUVIER KENNEDY First Lady of the White House, 1961-

The white silk dress which Jacqueline Ken­ covering it puffs out like a cloud at the hip­ nedy wore to the inaugural ball on January line. 20, 1961, was a striking complement to her With the dress Mrs. Kennedy wore a floor­ dark hair and eyes and her slim, youthful length cape of the same silk peau d'ange figure. The dress was made by designer Ethel veiled with a triple layer of silk chiffon, Frankau of the Custom Salon, Bergdorf which is fastened at the neck with an em­ Goodman, of New York City, based on ideas broidered frog on the military collar. and sketches from Mrs. Kennedy. It is made Her costume was completed with twenty of white peau d'ange (a very sheer silk, the buttons, white, glace kid gloves, and white French name of which may literally be trans­ silk opera pumps with medium heels. With lated as "angel's skin") with a bodice em­ this ensemble Mrs. Kennedy wore handsome broidered in silver thread which is veiled with diamond pendant earrings. a sheer white chiffon overblouse. l The dress has a very slim, floor-length skirt !01~ made of peau d'ange. The silk was veiled with white chiffon giving it a soft shimmering ef­ REFERENCES: THAYER, MARY VAN RENSSELAER, Jacque­ fect. The collarless, sleeveless blouse, richly line Bouvier K ennedy. New York, 1961. embroidered in metallic silver and brilliants, Contemporary newspaper and magazine arti­ is fitted, but the transparent full overblouse cles. Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, 0. C. 20560

ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT LYNDON B. JOHNSON

CLAUDIA (LADY BIRJI) TAYLOR JOHNSON

When Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson became First Lady of the United States

in 1963, she told reporters that her role "must emerge in deeds and

not in words'~ During her administration, the "deeds" prompted many words to describe the petite brunette First Lady in varying ways such

as "The Great Society's most effective translator", "America's Green

Thumb", and "the symbol of the beautification movement". Warm, human, and compassionate are phrases that highlighted the descriptions

of Mrs. Johnson.

This is the Mrs. Johnson who emerged through speeches, tree-plantings,

hostessing Heads of State or youth groups at the White House, and some

half a dozen trips on her own each year, into various parts of the

country to urge Americans to make their land more attractive and liveable.

By serving as Honorary Chairman of Project Headstart, she demonstrated

her deep concern with the needs of the small children of the nation. When

the President urged Americans to rally behind a national program of

conservation and beauty, Mrs. Johnson organized a Committee for a

More Beautiful Capital, an example for civic beautification committees

throughout the land.

To promote one of the President's important objectives -- a greater

role for women -- she encouraged women to lend a hand in shaping world understanding. She worked to define the role of women today which she

considered to be "the right to participate :fully -- whether in jobs, professions, or the political life of the community". She felt that her

• Claudia Taylor Johnson -2- own role was to be preeminently a woman, a wife, a mother, a thinking citizen.

Mrs. Johnson was born in Karnack, Texas, on December 22, 1912, the daughter of Thomas Jefferson Taylor, a small town merchant-landowner, and Minnie Patillo Taylor. The pages of history may list her as

Claudia Alta Taylor, but the First Lady became universally known as

"Lady Bird" or simply "Bird", a name giv~"n to her as a child. Mrs. Johnson received a Bachelor of Arts on 1933 from the University of Texas and a Bachelor of Journalism in 1934. Shortly thereafter, she met Lyndon

Baines Johnson, Secretary to Texas Congressman Richard Kleberg, and became his bride on November 11, 1934. She was quickly introduced into the ways of Washington life and spent the next 26 years in the public

eye as the wife of a Congressman, Senator, and Vice-President. Two daughters, Lynda Bird and Luci Baines were born during those early years

in Washington. Mrs. Johnson entered the White House with a long record

of having been a partner in the political life of her husband. The two

Johnson daughters were married during their father's Administration with

Lynda's marriage to Charles S. Robb taking place in the East Room of the

White House. Mrs. Johnson left the White House in 1969 and moved back

to the LBJ ranch in Johnson City, Texas with her husband. There she devotes

her time to her home, the Johnson Library and to her financial interest

in the television business. Her first task on leaving the White House was to work on a book about her years spent there which is titled

White House Diary. It was published in 1970.

Leaflet 72-29

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, 0. C. 20560

CLAUDIA (LADY BIRD) TAYLOR JOHNSON

First Lady, 1963 - 1969

The inaugural ball gown worn by Mrs. Johnson on January 20, 1965,

is made of jonquil yellow double woven satin. The gown, cut with

classic simplicity was designed by John Moore, the American couturier,

and was bought through Neiman-Marcus of Texas. The coat, designed

to be worn with the dress, is of matching fabric and has a standing

collar and three-quarter length sleeves trimmed with natural sable

cuffs. With the gown Mrs. Johnson wore yellow satin pumps, long

white gloves and a single strand of pearls and she carried an envelope

handbag of the dress fabric.

Leaflet 72-35 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

DRESS OF PATRICIA RYAN NIXON

First Lady, 1969 -

On January 20, 1969, Mrs. Richard M. Nixon attended the

Inaugural Ball wearing a mimosa silk satin gown with a long- sleeve bolero jacket. The gown has a bell-shaped skirt, a sleeveless bodice, and a small stand-up collar and narrow cummerbund. The jacket, collar and cummerbund are all heavily embroidered with Byzantine scrolls of gold and silver bullion and embellished with hand-set Austrian crystal jewels.

The gown was designed by Karen Stark of Harvey Berin. To complete the ensemble, Mrs. Nixon wore matching silk shoes, forearm length gloves, and carried a small matching box handbag.

Leaflet 72-36 Smithsonian Institution

• / ''

I / \Y/J,srm--JGTON, D. C. 20560 \

SELECTLlJ RFADINGS ON 1'HE FIRST LADIES OF THE \!lliT'<: EOUSE

Brown, Hargaret W. , Tl!~-T~I_~ss~s of _t:lw "f> '~-~l--~~l_d:ies_Qf..JJw \vashington, \lll~~-~l?.£.~e, 1952. (This is the Smithsonian Jnb titution 1 s own publication about the famous collection of gcnms. Ea~h of the gowns is described in detail and illustrated in color. Also included are a short biography and a picture of each First Lady.) (OUT OF PRINT)

Bassett, Margaret, Prot:h_~~~-I'.5!..:f_traits of 1~J11erican Presidents and Their Wives, Bond Wheel\vright Co. , Freeport, He. , 1969. Holloway, Laura C., The Ladies of the Hllite House, Funk & Vlagnalls, New York, 1886.

Jensen, Amy LaFollette, The White House and Its Thi~ty--fi v0amilie~-' McGraw-Hill, New York, 1970.

Melick, Arden Davis, Hives of the Presidents, Hammond, Inc., New Jersey, 1972.

Sadler, Christine, America's First Ladies, Hastings House, Nev;r York, 1948.

BOOKLETS:

The White House: An Historic Guide. Published by the Hhite House Historical Association, 1634 I Street, N.H., Washington, DC 20006 The Living Hhite House. Published by the \..fuite House Historical Association.

J..be F:L::st L2clies H?-11. :Published by the Smiths

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

THE COLLECTION OF DRESSES OF THE FIRST LADIES OF THE WHITE HOUSE IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND T:&::HNOLOGY

The Collection of Dresses of the First Ladies of the White House is one of the most popular exhibits in the National Museum of History and Technology. The idea of such a collection originated in the early 1900's with Mrs. Julian James and Mrs. Rose Gouverneur Hoes, two public-spirited citizens of Washington,D.C. The first dress received for the collection was the inaugural gown of Mrs. William Howard Taft, the presiding First Lady, who gave it to the Museum in 1912. Former First Ladies and their descendants all over the United States were approached, and other dresses were soon received. It was not long until the collection contained a dress representing the administration of every past President of the United States; and from the Taft administration to the present day, each First Lady has added a dress to the collection. The dresses themselves are exhibited on mannequins made to fit the individual dresses. The faces are all alike, but the coiffure of each lady represented has been copied from a picture or portrait of the lady, to give a varied and interesting appearance to the entire group.

The collection is installed in a series of eight period settings that give the viewer an opportunity to see the dresses in the type of surroundings in which they were originally worn. Each case contains dresses representing a time span of about 25 years. Changing styles in White House decoration, from the earliest days to the present, are shown in the settings, which are based on written descriptions of the White House and available pictures. The collection is a graphic represen­ tation of the changes in American period costume.from the administration of President George Washington to that of the present day, and as such it is of great interest to students of costume design.

The collection contains dresses worn by the ladies who actually acted as hostesses in the White House rather than just the Presidents' wives. It was found as the collection was assembled that frequently circumstances did not permit a President's wife to act in her official capacity and that a relative or close family friend acted as First Lady for the President. There are now 16 inaugural dresses in the collection. Inaugural gowns were not available for many of the early First Ladies, and some of the later administrations have been inaugurated without any elaborate festivities.

Leaflet 73-3 Smithsonian Institution

• Information From the SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D. C. 20560

PHaTCXJRAPH NUMBERS OF- DRESSES OF FIRST LADIES OF- 'IHE WHITE HOOSE Processing fees for black and white photographs ar~ listed on the attached photographic services information sheet. The fee for color slides of the First Ladies Gowns is $.40 each with a $2.00 processing fee per order. A complete set of slides with a descriptive listing is available for $18.00. Please refer all questions concerning photographic orders to the Photographic Services Division.

Dress worn b~: Negative No. ---·---Slide No. Martha Washington (Mrs. George Washington) ...... •...... 57614 72-2401 Abigail Adams (Mrs. John Adams) ...... 57615 72-2402 Shawl worn by Martha Jefferson Randolph (Mrs. Thanas Randolph), daughter of President Thomas Jefferson ...... 57616 72-2403 Dolley Madison (Mrs. Jaroos Madison) ...... 57617 72-2404 Elizabeth K. Monroe (Mrs. James Monroe) Courtesy of the President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va ...... 57618 72-2405 Marie Monroe Gouverneur (Mrs. Samuel L. Gouverneur), daughter of President James Monroe. Courtesy of the President James Monroe Museum, Fredericksburg, Va ...... 57619 72-2406 Louisa Catherine Adams (Mrs. John Quincy Adams) ...... 57620 72-2407 *Emily Donelson (Mrs. Andrew Donelson) , niece of President Andrew Jackson ...... 57621 72-2408 Sarah Yorke Jackson (Mrs. Andrew Jackson, Jr. ) , wife ·of adopted son of President Andrew Jackson ...... 57622 72-2409 Angelica Singleton Van Buren (:Mrs. Abram Van Buren), daughter-in-law of President Martin Van Buren ...... 57623 72-2410 *Jane Irwin Findlay (Mrs. James Findlay), hostess for President William Henry Harrison ...... 57624 72-2411 Julia Gardiner Tyler (Mrs. John Tyler) ...... 57625 72-2412 *Sarah C. Polk (Mrs. James K. Polk) ...... 57626 72-2413 Betty Taylor Bliss (Mrs. William W. Bliss), daughter of President Zachary Taylor ...... 57627 72-2414 Abigail Po.vers Fillmore (Mrs. Millard Fillmore) ...... 57628 72-2415 Jane Appleton Pierce (Mrs. Franklln Pierce) ...... 57629 72-2416

• -2-

PHCYICXJRAPH NUMBERS OF DRFSSES OF FIRST LADIES OF lliE WHITE HOOSE Dress worn by: Negative No. Slide No. Harriet Lane, niece of President Jrunes Buchanan ...... 57630 72-2417 Mary Todd Lincoln (Mrs. Abraham Lincoln) ...... 57631 72-2418 Martha Johnson Patterson (Mrs. David T. Patterson), daughter of President Andrew Johnson ...... 57632 72-2419 *Julia Dent Grant (1trs. Ulysses S. Grant) ...... 57633 72-2420 Lucy Webb Hayes (~rrs. Rutherford B. Hayes) ...... 57634 72-2421 *Lucretia R. Garfield (Mrs. Jrunes A. Garfield) ...... 57635 72-2422 1lliry Arthur McElroy (~Jrs. John McElroy), sister of President Chester Arthur ...... · 57636 72-2423 Rose Cleveland, sister of President Grover Cleveland ...... 57637 72-2424 *Caroline Scott Harrison (Mrs. Benjamin Harrison) ...... 57638 72-2425 *Mary Harrison McKee (Mrs. Jrunes McKee), daughter of President Benjamin Harrison ...... 57639 72-2426 Frances Folsom Cleveland (Mrs. Grover Cleveland) ...... 57640 72-2427 *Ida Saxton McKinley (Mrs. William McKinley) ...... 57641 72-2428 *Edith Carow Roosevelt (Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt) ...... 57642 72-2429 *Helen Herron Taft (Mrs. William Howard Taft) ...... 57643 72-2430 Ellen Axson Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson I) ...... 57644 72-2431 Edith Bolling Wilson (Mrs. Woodrow Wilson II) ...... 57645 72-2432 Florence Kling Harding (Mrs. Warren G. Harding) ...... 57646 72-2433 Grace Goodhue Coolidge (Mrs. Calvin Coolidge) ...... 57647 72-2434 Lou Henry Hoover (Mrs. Herbert Hoover) ...... 57648 72-2435 *Anna Eleanor Roosevelt (Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt) ...... 57649 72-2436 *Bess Wallace Truman (Mrs. Harry S. Truman) ...... 57650 72-2437 *Mamie Doud Eisenhower (Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower) ...... 57651 72-2438 *Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (Mrs. John F. Kennedy) ...... 57652 72-2439 *Lady Bird Taylor Johnson (Mrs. Lyndon B. Johnson) ...... 57653 72-2440 *Patricia Ryan Nixon (~rrs. Richard M. Nixon) ...... 73315 72-2441

--Compiled by the Division of Political History, The National Museum of History and Technology, Smithsonian Institution Washington, D.C. 20560

*Inaugural dresses

Leaflet 73-1 Smithsonian Institution

• SD'L-318a SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION Rev. 11·17·76 Office of Printing and Photographic Services Customer Services Branch Washington, D.C. 20560

Photographic Policies and Charges Effective March 1, 1976

The Customer Services Branch of the Smithsonian's Office of Printing and Photographic Services pro· vides the public with the opportunity to purchase Smithsonian Institution photographs that have been approved by curatorial units. If the picture you need is not already in its negative library, items in the Smithsonian collections, with the approval of the responsible curatorial unit, often may be photographed to your requirements. DELIVERY. Photographs normally are not kept in stock. They are printed to fill specific orders and thus cannot be sent on approval. Although every effort will be made to complete your order promptly, the Smith· sonian's own photographic requirements may take precedence. At least four weeks should be allowed for delivery. Color, special photography, and large orders may require longer. REPRODUCTION RIGHTS. Photographs supplied may not be reproduced without specific permission from the Smithsonian Institution. If you anticipate publishing or other commercial use of Smithsonian supplied photographs, request a copy of Smithsonian Institution form letter, SIFL-2940-A, "Reproduction Terms and Fees," and form, Sl-2940, "Permission Request." RESTRICTIONS and LIMITATIONS. Photographic materials shall not be used to show or imply that the Smith· sonian Institution endorses any commercial product or enterprise, concurs with the opinions expressed in, or confirms the accuracy of any text used with these photographs. ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHY. As there is considerable concern for the safety and handling of some of the national treasures, the decision to permit new photography is in the purview of the responsible curatorial staff. When it is the opinion of the curator that a sufficient number of photographs are on file, and new photography is unwarranted, permission for any new photography may be refused. In such instances, requesters will be limited to a choice of available photographs. PHOTOGRAPHS ON PREMISES UNAUTHORIZED. No photographs for advertising or any other commercial purpose may be taken on Smithsonian premises unless officially authorized. PAYMENT and MINIMUM CHARGES. The minimum fee for any order is $3.50. All orders are sent postage paid. Advance payment or a purchase order is required. Your check or money order will be deposited on receipt. It should be made payable to the Smithsonian Institution. If total charges differ from the amount paid in advance, a bill or refund will be sent to you. Due to the cost involved, $1.00 or less will not be refunded unless specifically requested. EDUCATIONAL DISCOUNTS. Students, teachers, and non-profit educational institutions may request a 10% discount or a quantity discount, whichever is larger. Prepayment of the discounted total must be made with a short accompanying statement on your school or institution stationary specifying your qualifications for educational discount and the purpose for which the pictures will be used. QUANTITY SALES DISCOUNT. On individual prints of same negative: 5 to 10 prints of same negative 20% discount (on total item) 10 or more prints of same negative 30% discount (on total item)

USE OF OFFICIAL Sl PHOTOGRAPHIC ORDER BLANK. All orders must be processed on form Sl-318, "Photo Order." These may be obtained from any unit of the Smithsonian Institution or by writing to the Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and Photographic Services, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. Additional information about our services, charges, or delivery may be obtained by contacting the Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and Photographic Services, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560, telephone (202) 381-5164.

(over)

• CHARGES ($3.50 minimum order)

COPIES FROM EXISTING NEGATIVES

Black & White Prints Color Prints 4" X 5"------$3.50 4" X 5"------$ 7.00 8" X 10"------·------$3.50 8" X 10"------$10.00 11" X 14"------$7.50 11" X 14"------$20.00 16" X 20"------$8.50 16" X 20"------$30.00

35mm. duplicate of existing color slide (2" x 2")._ .... ______$ 1.00 (Reduced prices available on certain slide sets)

4" x 5" duplicate color transparency, reproduction quality ______$20.00 4" x 5" duplicate negative ______Black & White ______$ 3.50 Color ------· $ 7.00

35mm. microfilm, duplicate of existing reel-per frame ------$ 0.05 Note: Specify type desired, positive or negative. Two pages have been placed on each frame when practical.

"Xerox" or other office machine copies from existing negative mircrofilm-per page .... $ 0.15

ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHIC OR COPY WORK (Performed to your specifications)

"Xerox" or other office machine copies of manuscripts-per page ------····· $ 0.20 Note: Large orders may be microfilmed first and copies made from the microfilm. (Allow 8 weeks.)

Original 35mm. negative microfilm of manuscripts-per frame ------$ 0.15 Note: Books 8" x 10" or smaller normally can be photographed with 2 pages per microfilm ($.05 per page).

Original Photography When ordering new photographs to be taken, remit fee for one hour labor plus price of photographs. You will be notified prior to work being performed if our estimate exceeds this amount.

Photographer's rate per hour or fraction thereof ------·------$15.00 (Payment of the labor rate does not grant you exclusive rights or automatic reproduction privileges.)

• Customer, complete only Section C of this form; please type or print-write numbers carefully.

SECTION A Sl Curatort•l or Org•nlzatlon u• only Name SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION Cost Control Dept Center# PHOTO ORDER Museum 0 For Customer Services Branch, Office of Printing and Captions required: YesD NoD Photographic Services Comments: Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. 20560

SECTION B SECTION C CUSTOMER REQUEST ' $ Date Comments: Ship the below order to me at: Organization or firm Name of individual NOTE: Reproduction rights-Photographs and Street Address materials on this order may not be reproduced City ______State ______without prior permission from the SMITHSONIAN Zip ____ INSTITUTION. Count~--~------Please supply the following information: Glossy prints are standard-check here if matte is desired D. The materials and services requested on this order are for reproduction or resai&-Yes D No D. If Section A of this form has not been completed please furnish the following information: Negative numbers and information on this order were obtained from------

NOTE: This order form will be returned with your completed order. Additional information concerning your completed order will be found in Section E below. Information on policies and charges are contained in forms SI-318A and SIFL-2940-A.

LINE NE~J:~~IDE DESCRIPTION $IZE

Advice to customer regarding completed order

Amount rec'd $ __ CSB-OPPS Job Number Date rec'd OPPS ------­ I Cost of order $ __ Completed order inspected by ------­ Difference $ __ Completed order forwarded to: Customer D Unit D Date------Please remit amount shown as difference above D Refund as shown above as differ­ ence will NOTES: be mailed to you D. Your order is complete except as noted. When corre­ sponding with us concerning this order please refer to our CSB-OPPS job number shown in this section. UOIJI'IIISU~..IIWS lnO~HJ. ______------FOLD ON THIS LINE 4th ------

~FROM: PLEASE j Name PLACE Street STAMP City HERE State Zip---- Country------

TO: Section M SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WASHINGTON, D.C. 20560 USA

..1 Expedite: Photographic Orde~

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