Contributors
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Contributors MALCOLM BASS lives with his partner Donna James on the edge of the North York Moors. He does most of his alpine climbing there amongst the soaring sandstone spires of Scugdale, but has been tempted abroad to put up new routes in Alaska and the Garhwal. Workwise he is sometimes a clinical psychologist and sometimes an NHS manager, depending on who is asking. His clinical speciality is working with people who self injure. There is absolutely no link whatsoever between his clinical interest and winter alpinism. NICK BULLOCK was a PE instructor for the Prison Service until he became a nomadic full-time climber and writer in 2003. He discovered climbing inl991 on a work-related course at Plas y Brenin since when he has established himself as one of Britain's leading alpinists. He has put up new routes in Wales, Scotland, the Alps, Peru and Nepal. He also rock climbs a bit. ED DOUGLAS is a former honorary editor of the Alpine Journal. His books include Tenzing, published by National Geographic, and Chomolungma Sings the Blues, published by Constable, both prize winners at the Banff Mountain Book Festival. When not flogging his soul as a freelance journalist, he can be found on the gritstone edges near his home in Sheffield. EYELIO ECHEVARRiA was born in Santiago, Chile, and teaches Hispanic Literature at Colorado State University. He has climbed in North and South America, and has contributed numerous articles to Andean, North American and European journals. JOHN EDWARDS is a retired RAF Wing Commander with a passion for adventure mountaineering. Has been climbing for 60 years (happily still is) and has completed the 61 Alpine 4000ers and climbed in Nepal, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Canada, Norway, Ethiopia, Iran and South Africa. Second ascent (frrst British) of Kwande (Khumbu), two first ascents in the Ruwenzoris and eight in Zagros Mountains, Iran. DEREK FORDHAM, when not dreaming of the Arctic, practises as an architect and runs an Arctic photographic library. He is secretary of the Arctic Club and has led 21 expeditions to the Canadian Arctic, Greenland and Svalbard to ski, climb or share the life of the Inuit. JERZY GAJEWSKI is chairman of the Mountain Tourism Committee of the PTTK - Polish Touring Association. Born in Cracow, he has written several books and many articles in tourist journals, and has wandered through mountains in Eastern Europe, the Alps, the Caucasus, Asia and Africa. 419 420 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2007 TERRY GIFFORD is Director of the annual International Festival of Mountaineering Literature and Chair of the Mountain Heritage Trust. He is the author of The Joy of Climbing (Whittles, 2004) and The Unreliable Mushrooms: New and Selected Poems (Redbeck, 2003). He still seeks out the easier rock climbs in esoteric places. Profesor Honorario at the University of Alicante, Spain, he acted as porter for the making of Gill Round's walking guide, Costa Blanca (Rother, 2007). PETER GILLMAN has been writing about mountaineering for 40 years. His biography of George Mallory, The Wildest Dream, co-authored with his wife Leni, won the Boardman Tasker prize in 2000. Other titles include Eiger Direct (written with Dougal Haston) and two editions of an Everest anthology. A devoted hill-walker, he completed the Munros in 1997. STEPHEN GOODWIN renounced daily newspaper journalism on The Independent for a freelance existence in Cumbria, mixing writing and climbing. A precarious balance was maintained until 2003 when he was persuaded to take on the editorship of the Alpine J;urnal and 'getting out' became elusive again. DENNIS GRAY began climbing at the age of lion Yorkshire gritstone. He subsequently visited more than 60 countries on the climbing trail, including eight visits to the Himalaya. He was the first National Officer and General Secretary of the BMC and after 18 years with the Council took early retirement to travel and write. He has published six books, most recently a novel Todhra (2005). Over the last decade he has concentrated on travels and lecturing in China, to which he has now made more than 30 visits. LINDSAY GRIFFIN is currently serving what he hopes will be only a temporary sentence as an armchair mountaineer. However, he is still keeping up to speed on international affairs through his work with Mountain INFO and as Chairman of the MEF Screening and BMC International Committees. GEOFF HORNBY is a consulting engineer now resident in the Italian Dolomites. He has made almost 300 first ascents in the mountains outside of the UK and is looking forward to 200 more, inshallah. TONY HOWARD was a 1960s contributor to Gritstone and Limestone Peak District guidebooks, at which rime he was a climbing instructor and BMC Guide. He was on the first ascent of Norway's Troll Wall in 1965 and wrote the now classic guide to Climbs, Scrambles & Walks in Romsdal where he was a guide. He was a founder of Troll climbing equipment and has opened new routes in Arctic Norway, Greenland, Canada and across North Africa and the Middle East from Morocco to Iran. He discovered Wadi Rum in Jordan in 1984 and wrote the guide to it, as well as guides to trekking in Jordan and Palestine. He has also been involved in trekking explorations in Nagaland. CONTRIBUTORS 421 GRAHAM HOYLAND is a BBC producer who specialises in Everest films. He has filmed on the mountain on eight expeditions and summited in October 1993. His other summits include Denali. He is planning an ambitious 'Seven Seas - Seven Summits' project, sailing around the world and climbing on each continent. It will be done in stages and Graham is keen to hear from AC members who would like to join in for one or more of the sail-climb legs. DICK ISHERWOOD has been a member of the Alpine Club since 1970. His climbing record includes various buildings in Cambridge, lots of old fashioned routes on Cloggy, a number of obscure Himalayan peaks, and a new route on the Piz Badile (in 1968). He now follows Tilman's dictum about old men on high mountains and limits his efforts to summits just a little under 20,000 feet. HARISH KAPADIA has climbed in the Himalaya since 1960, with ascents up to 6800m. He is Hon Editor of both the Himalayan Journal and the He Newsletter. In 1993 he was awarded the IMF's Gold Medal and in 1996 was made an Hon Member of the Alpine Club. He has written several books including High Himalaya Unknown Valleys, Spiti: Adventures in the Trans Himalaya and, with Soli Mehta, Exploring the Hidden Himalaya. In 2003 he was awarded the Patron's Gold Medal by the Royal Geographical Society. PAULKNOTT is a lecturer in business strategy at the University of Canterbury, New Zealand. He previously lived in the UK. He enjoys exploratory climbing in remote mountains, and since 1990 has undertaken eleven expeditions to Russia, Central Asia, Alaska and the Yukon. He has also climbed new routes in the Southern Alps and on desert rock in Oman and Morocco. ROBERT MACFARLANE is the author of Mountains of the Mind (2003), and The Wild Places (2007). He is a Fellow of Emmanuel College, Cambriidge. JOHANNA MERZ joined the Alpine Club in 1988 and has devoted most of her energies to the Alpine Journal, first as assistant editor, then as honorary editor from 1992 to 1998, and currently as production editor. ADE MILLER currently lives, climbs and sometimes works in Redmond, Washington. He has visited and climbed in numerous mountain ranges but has spent the last few years climbing in the Washington, British Columbia, the Yukon Territories and Alaska. In the summer of 2007 he will be returning to South America to climb in Peru. ERIK MONASTERIO is a Bolivian/New Zealand forensic psychiatrist and climber, currently living and working in NZ. Erik has climbed all over the world, but specializes in the Andes, where he has done more than 40 new alpine routes over ice, rock and mixed ground. He is involved in research into personality characteristics and accidents in climbers and base jumpers. 422 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2007 TAMOTSU NAKAMURA was born in Tokyo in 1934 and has been climbing new routes in the greater ranges since his first successes on technical peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru in 1961. He has lived in Pakistan, Mexico, New Zealand and Hong Kong and in the last 17 years has made 28 trips to 'Alps of Tibet in East of the Himalaya' - the least-known mountains in East Tibet and the Hengduan mountains of Yunnan, Sichuan and East Tibet. He is currently editor of the Japanese Alpine News. ANDY PARKIN is still pushing at frontiers as both artist and mountaineer. Active on the UK rock-climbing scene in the 1970s, he settled in the Chamonix valley, gaining a reputation for his painting and sculpting, along with hard routes such as Beyond Good and Evilon the Aiguille des pelerins. Andy is committed to exploratory mountaineering: Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego have become favourite locations. !AN PARNELL is based in Sheffield and divides his time between his work as a freelance photographer and as Climb magazine's alpine editor. After several years learning his alpine craft with lightWeight first and second ascents in Alaska he's recently concentrated his energies in the Himalaya. SIMON RICHARDSON is a petroleum engineer based in Aberdeen. Experience gained in the Alps, Andes, Patagonia, Canada, Himalaya and Alaska is put to good use most winter weekends whilst exploring and climbing in the Scottish Highlands. KEV REYNOLDS reckons he's the man with the world's best job, for as a guidebook writer he has the perfect excuse to spend several months each year in the mountains.