Index

2001 VoI106 Baldock, David: and jointAC/ACL Computer Working Party, 351 Aarseth, Sverra: art. 'Three Solo Ball, Michael Joseph (1925-2000): Adventures in the Atacama', 77; obituary by Frank Fitzgerald, 345, 359 Plate 64 Adam Smith, Janet: Plate 45 Band, George: arts. 'Nanda Devi Re­ Al Alvarez: 355 opened', 50, 'A 1935 Yeti on the Alaska: art. 'Mount Kennedy - North Rongbuk?', 153; 359 Buttress', 3,279, 285 Banks, Mike: see Book Reviews, 310 Alpine Club: Officers & Committee, Barry, John: art. 'Big Walls in Kenya', 347, Office Bearers, 347, Meetings, 24 348, Annual Dinner, 348, Awards, Bell, Steve: 354 349, Library, 349, Symposium Benson, Andy and Pete: in art. 'Arwa 2002,351, Picture Collection, 356 Spire', 19; 245, 290 Alps, The: art. 'Alps & Pyrenees Berg, Peter: Hon Archivist, 347, 351 2000', 211; Traverse of the Alps, Bermudez, Jose Luis: Area Notes 223 edited by, 211; 359 America, North: art. 'North America Bernina: 218 2000',279, MEF report, 285 Black, Sue: art. 'Ginette Lesley America, South: arts. 'Three Solo Harrison', 101; 359 Adventures in the Atacama', 77, Bogle, James: see Book Reviews, 324 'The Cordillera Huarochiri, Peru', Bolivia: art. 'Bolivia 2000', 284. 83, 'Bolivia 2000',284, MEF Plates 36-38 report, 287 Bonington, Sir Chris: 290, 292 American Alpine Club: 351 Anderson, Richard: art. 'Climbing Book Reviews, 297-331: with the Doon School', 197; 359 Snow in the Kingdom. My Storm Anker, Comad: see Book Reviews, Years on Everest by Ed Webster, 322 reviewed by Charles Houston, 297. Annapurna(809lm):274 The Wildest Dream. Mal/ory: His Antarctica: MEF report, 287 Life and Conflicting Passions by Arunachal Pradesh: art. 'Arunachal Peter and Leni Gillman, reviewed Pradesh', 59. Plates lla to 12c by Ed Douglas, 298. Arwa Spire (6l93m): art. 'Arwa Fearless on Everest by Julie Summers, Spire' 19. Plates 2, 3 reviewed by Ed Douglas, 301. Aspiring, Mount: art. 'An Ascent of Siegfried Heiford: An Edwardian Mount Aspiring', 37. Frontispiece Rock-Climberby Keith Treacher, andPlate 10 reviewed by Robin A Hodgkin, 304. Atacama: art. 'Three Solo Adventures Frank Smythe: The Six Alpine/ in the Atacama', 77, Plates 18,19 Himalayan Climbing Books, reviewed by Gordon Stainforth, 305. Babu Chiri Sherpa: death of, 276

365 366 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2001

Military Mountaineering. A History of Broad Peak (8047m): 258 Services Mountaineering 1945-2000 Brown, Joe: 349 by Bronco Lane, reviewed by Mike Banks, 310. Canada: 281 Legless but Smiling. An Autobio­ Cameron, Mal (1946-2000): graphy by Norman Croucher, obituary by John Sumner, 336, reviewed by Geoffrey Templeman, Plate 63 3ll. Cartwright, Jules: 211, and The The Great Arc by John Keay, Knowledge, 286 reviewed by Michael Ward, 313. Caucasus: 227 Killing Dragons. The Conquest ofthe Cave, Andy: in art. 'Mount Kennedy Alps by Fergus Fleming, reviewed - North Buttress', 3; 282, 352 by Ernst Sondheimer, 313. Chapman, Freddy Spencer: l73ff How the English Made the Alps by Jim Child, Greg: in art. 'Arunachal Ring, reviewed by Kev Reynolds, Pradesh', 59 316. Childs, Roger: 94 Pyrenean High Route. A Ski Mount­ Chile: art. 'Three Solo Adventures in aineering Odyssey by John Harding, the Atacama', 77. Plates 18,19 reviewed by Jeremy Whitehead, China and Tibet: MEF report, 291 318. Cho Oyu (8201m): 275 Travail So Gladly Spent by Tom Clarke, Dr Charles: 291 Price, reviewed by John Temple, Clyma, Julie-Ann: 266, 293 319. Coatsworth, Richard: Hon. Pushing the Limits: The Story of Treasurer of ACL Council, 351 Canadian Mountaineering by Chic Computer Working Party, Joint AC/ Scott, reviewed by Terry Gifford, ACL,351 320. Conservation, Mountain: art. 'The The Lost Explorer. Finding Mallory Trails to 2002', 43 on Mount Everest by Conrad Anker Continental United States: 282 & David Roberts, reviewed by Conway, Sir Martin: quotation from Geoffrey Templeman, 322. his 1900 paper 'The Future ofthe Voicesfrom the Summit: The World's Alpine Club', 209 Great Mountaineers on the Future of Cool, Kenton: in art. 'Arwa Spire', 19; Climbing edited by Bernadette 245,290 McDonald and John Amatt, Cordes, Kelly: art. 'North America reviewed by Val Randall, 323. 2000',279 Feeling through the Eye. The New Cowper, Richard: 93 Landscape in Britain 1800-1830. An Croucher, Norman: Book Reviews, exhibition ofworks of art, reviewed 311 by James Bogie, 324. The Enchanted Mountains. A Destivelle, Catherine: Plate 41 Quest in the Pyrenees by Robin Diran (7257m): 268 Fedden, 325. Douglas, Ed: Foreword, iii, art. 'Some Advice on Marriage', 114 Borneo: Mt Kinabalu (4101m): Book Reviews, 298, 301; 359 MEF report, 294 Ducker, John: 94 BregagIia: 218, 224 Du Faur, Freda: 121 INDEX 367

Echevarria, Evelio: art. 'The Greenland, East: art. 'The Lemon Cordillera Huarochiri, Peru', 83; Mountains ofEast Greenland', 31, 359 Plates 4-9 Everest (see Mount Everest) Greenwood, Ashley: obituary of General JML Gavin CB, CBE, 334 Ferguson, Rob: 290 Griffin, Lindsay: arts. 'Alps & Pyr­ Fitzgerald, Frank: obituary of enees 2000', 211, 'Pakistan 2000', Michael Joseph Ball, 343 257;286,360 Fleming, Fergus: Book Reviews, Griffiths, Dai: obituary of Paul 313 Henry William Wallace, 341 Fordham, Derek: art. 'Greenland 2000', 233; 93f Harding, JG R: art. 'In Praise of Fowler, Mick: art. 'Mount Kennedy Greek Mountains', 89; Book - North Buttress', 3; 282, 285, 360 Reviews, 318; 360 and AC Symposium 2002, 352 Hargreaves, Alison: 119ff, Plate 40 Franklin, Rodney: 93f Harrison, Ginette: art. 'Ginette Freeman-Attwood, Julian: 287 Lesley Harrison', 101, Plate39 Freer, Catherine: 121 Hillary, Sir Edmund: 145ff Freshfield, Douglas: 91 Himachal Pradesh: 251 Frith, Mike: tribute to Mal Himalaya: art. 'Jannu - North Face', Cameron, 338 12; MEF report, 290, 291. (See also India, Nepal, Eastern Nepal.) Garhwal Himalaya: arts. 'Arwa Himalaya, Western: arts. 'Arwa Spire', 19, 'Nanda Devi Reopened', Spire', 19, 'Nanda Devi Reopened', 50;244 50;269 Gasherbrum 11 (8035m): 257 Himalayan Trust: 358 Gavin, James Merricks Lewis (1911­ Hind, Robin Cyril (1911-2000): 2000): obituary by Ashley obituary by GW Templeman, 344 Greenwood, 334, Plate 62 Hindu Kush: 271 Gifford, Terry: Book Reviews, 320, Hindu Raj: 270 and 14th Festival of Mountain­ Hodgkin, Robin A: Book Reviews, eering Literature, 356 304 Gill, Dr MS: 59 Houston, Charles: Book Reviews, Gillman, Leni: see Book Reviews, 297 298 Hoyland, Graham: 353 Gillman, Peter: art. 'The Yeti Foot­ Huey, Raymond B: art. 'The Eco­ prints', 143; 360. Plate 52. Book nomics of Adventure', 154; 360 Reviews, 298 Hughes, Luke: Hon Sec of ACL Godrej, S P: tribute, 256 Council,351 Gore, Jerry: and The Crucible, 294 Hunt, John: 92 Greece: art. 'In Praise of Greek Mountains' by JGR Harding, 89. India: art. 'India 2000' by Harish Plates 33, 34 Kapadia, 243; MEF report, 290 Greenland: art. 'Greenland 2000' by Derek Fordham, 233, MEF report, Jackson, Frederic Sinclair (1914­ 289. Plates 16, 17 1999): tribute by Norman Ridley, 346 368 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2001

Jamie, Kathleen: and Boardman McNaught-Davis, Ian: 50 Taskerjudgement, 355 Mallalieu, Peter: and Alpine Club Jannu (77lOm): art. 'Jannu - North Picture Collection, 356 Face', 12 Mallory, George Leigh: Book Jones, Crag: 19,287 Reviews, 298, 322; 353 Manaslu (8163m): 278 K2 (8611m): 258 Marmolada, South Face: art. Kangchenjunga: art. 'Early 'Beatrice Tomasson and the South Exploration ofKangchenjunga and Face of the Marmolada', 105 South Tibet', 191 Mauduit, Chantal: Plate 43 Kapadia, Harish: art. 'India 2000', Mexico: 283 243; 19,360 Mistry, Kaivan: tribute, 256 Karakoram, Central: 260 Mont Blanc Massif: 214, 219 Karakoram, Eastern: 254 Mountaineering Literature: 14th Karakoram, Western: 265 Festival of, 352 Karo, Silvo: 351 Mount Everest (8850m): 275, British Keay, John: Book Reviews, 312 ascents, 276 Kennedy, Mount: art. 'Mount Muir, Scott: 290 Kennedy - North Buttress', 3; 282 Kenya: art. 'Big Walls in Kenya', 24, Naess, Arne: 272 MEF report, 294. Plate 20 Nakamura, Tamotsu: art. 'Untrodden Kirkpatrick,Andy:288,352 Mountains of West Sichuan', 65; Knott, Paul: art. 'Russia & Central 361 Asia 2000',227; 360 Nanda Devi (7816m): art. 'Nanda Kurtyka,Voytek : and AC Symposium Devi Reopened', 50. Plate 13 2002, 352 Nanga Parbat (8125m): 269 Nepal: art. 'Nepal 2000', 274; MEF Ladakh: 254 report, 292 Lane, Bronco: Book Reviews, 310 Nepal, Eastern: art. 'Jannu - North Larsen, Heather (1932-2000): Face', 12 obituary by Hywel Lloyd, 339 New Zealand: art. 'An Ascent of Lawrence, Jill: Plate 45 Mount Aspiring', 37. Frontispiece Lhotse (8516m): 277 andPlate 10. Lindblade, Andy: in art. 'Jannu­ Norris, Hester: in art. 'The Diaries of North Face', 12 Hester Norris', 122 Littlejohn, Pat: in art. 'Big Walls in Norway, Arctic: art. 'Strandatind', Kenya', 24; 230, 294 181. Plates 21-25 Lloyd, Hywel: obituary of Heather Noshaq (7492m): 272 Larsen, 339 Long, Steve: and The Crucible, 294 Obituaries, 332-346 Longland, John: his camera presented O'Connor, Bill: art. 'Nepal 2000',274; to the Alpine Club, 358 361 Loretan, Erhard: and Mazeno Ridge, 269 Pakistan: arts. 'Giant Himalayan Lowther, Jim: 290 Woolly Flying Squirrels', 48, Lundahl, Anders: art. 'Strandatind', 'Pakistan 2000', 257; MEF report, 181,361. Plates 21-25 292 (see also Karakoram) INDEX 369

Pallis, Marco: 173ff ltussell, C A: art. 'One Hundred Years Pamir and Pamir Alai: 228 Ago', 204, 362. Plates 57-61 Parkin, Andy: and Cerro Torre, 288 ltussia: art. 'ltussia & Central Asia Parnell, lan: art. 'Arwa Spire', 19; 245, 2000',227 and The Knowledge, 286, and ltuthven, Bill: MEF Expedition Thumbnail, 290; 361 lteports compiled and summarised Pash, Richard: art. 'The Lemon by, 285; 362 Mountains ofEast Greenland', 31; ltutkiewicz, Wanda: 120. Plate 44 289,361 Pasteur, Chris: 3, 285 Sanchez, Javier: art. 'Bolivia 2000', Patagonia: 288 284 Payne, ltoger: 266,293 Scotland: art. 'Scottish Winter 1999­ Peru: art. 'The Cordillera 2000',237 Huarochiri', 83. Plates 14,15 Scott, Chic: Book lteviews, 320; Poi, N Face of: in art. 'Big Walls in 356 Kenya', 24. Plate 20 Scott, Doug: art. 'Arunachal Porter, John: 290, obituary ofAndrzej Pradesh', 59; 347, 352, 363 Zawada,333 Seddon, David: art. 'Queen Victoria Powell, AI: in art. 'Arwa Spire, 19; in Switzerland', 202; 94, 363 245,290 Shipton, Eric: 143ff Price, Martin: art. 'The Trails to Shipton, John: in art. 'Nanda Devi 2002',43; 361 lteopened', 50 Price, Tom: Book lteviews, 319 Siberia and the ltussian Far East 231 Pumori (7161m): 278 Sichuan, West: art. 'Untrodden Pycroft, Mike: tribute to Mal Mountains of West Sichuan', 65. Cameron, 337 Plates 26-32 Pyke, Kath: art. 'Giant Hirnalayan Slee-Smith, John: art. 'An Ascent of Woolly Flying Squirrels', 48; 362 Mount Aspiring', 37; 363 Pyrenees: art. 'Alps & Pyrenees 2000', Smythe, Frank: review of Frank 211; 212 Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books, 305, 353, his ice axe ltakaposhi (7788m): 268 presented to the Alpine Club, 357 ltandall, Val: Book lteviews, 323 Smythe, Tony: at the 14th Festival of lteisach, Hermann: art. 'Beatrice Mountaineering Literature, 353 Tomasson and the South Face ofthe Sondheirner, Ernst Book lteviews, Marmolada', 105; 362 313 lteynolds, Kev: Book lteviews, 314 Spantik (7028m): 266 Richardson, Simon: art. Scottish Stainforth, Gordon: Book lteviews, Winter 1999-2000',237; 352, 362 305 Ridley, Norman: tribute to Frederic Steele, Peter: 143ff Sinclair Jackson, 346 Streather, Tony: 266, 272 Ring, Jim: Book lteviews, 314 Summers, Julie: see Book lteviews, ltoaf,ltobert: art. 'Sikkim, 1936', 173, 301 362. Plates 46-50 Sumner, John: obituary of Mal ltoberts, Dave: art. 'The Diaries Cameron, 336 of Hester Noms', 122; 362 Sustad, Steve: 19 ltoberts, David: Book Reviews, 322 I 370 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 2001

Temple, John: Book Reviews, 319 Ward, Michae1: art. 'Early Explora­ Templeman, Geoffrey: Book tion ofKangchenjunga and South Reviews compiled by, 297, 311, Tibet', 191. Plates 54-56. 143ff 322, In Memoriam compiled by, Book Reviews, 312; 363 332, obituary of Robin Cyril Warren, Dr Charles: and Ruskin Hind, 344; 363 watercolours, 350 Thomas, Louise: and The Crucible, Wayatt, Geoff: 37 294,352 Webster, Ed: Book Reviews, 297 Tibet: art. 'Early Exploration of Whimp, Atho1: art. 'Jannu - North Kangchenjunga and South Tibet', Face', 12; 373 191 Whitehead, Jeremy: Book Reviews, Tien Shan: 229 318 Tirich Mir (7706m): 272 Whymper, Edward: and the Canadian Tomasson, Beatrice: art. 'Beatrice Rockies, 207 I Tomasson and the South Face ofthe Wilkinson, Dave: 265,293 Marmo1ada', 105. Plates 42, 58 Williams, David: 93f Treacher, Keith: Book Reviews, Wills, Dave: 23, 290 304 Wilson, Ken: 353 Troillet, Jean: andMazeno Ridge, 269 Woods, Simon: 270f Tuckett, F F: 91 Wynne-Jones, Dave: review of 14th Tunstall, Duncan: 3, 285 Festival ofMountaineering Turner, Mike: and The Crucible, 294 Literature, 352

Ultar (7388m): 268 Yamano, Yasushi: 352 Yeti: in arts. 'The Yeti Footprints', Valais: 217 143, 'A 1935 Yeti on the Rongbuk?', 153. Plates 51, 52 Wallace, Paul Henry William (1912-2000): his obituary by Dai Zawada, Andrzej (1928-2000): Griffiths, 351 obituary by John Porter, 333