Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Contents Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Maps

Home , Astley Ainslie Hospital, Duddingston, Goldenacre, South Queensferry, The Grange Club

Historical map 3

Structure map 4

Key elements 5

Summary information 6

Conservation area character appraisals 7

Historical origins and development 8

Special characteristics

Structure 13

Key elements 17

Astley Ainslie Hospital 25

Management

Legislation, policies and guidance 29

Pressures and sensitivities 32

Opportunities for development 34

Opportunities for planning action 34

Opportunities for enhancement 35

Sources 36

2 Grange Historical map Grange Conservation Area Conservation Area Boundary Conservation Area Character Appraisal Kirkwood’s 1817 map Character Appraisal 1884 OS map Development phasing

3 Structure map Grange Conservation Area Boundary Conservation Area Grain and Density Character Appraisal

Vistas and Landmarks

Development pattern

Open Space

Aerial map

4 Key elements map Grange Conservation Area Boundary Conservation Area Listed Buidings Character Appraisal Protected Trees

Landmarks

5 Summary information Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Location and boundaries Acknowledgements

The Grange Conservation Area is situated approximately one mile to the south of This document has been produced with Edinburgh city centre. The conservation area is bounded by Sciennes Road and Strathearn the assistance of the Grange Association, Road to the north, the south suburban railway line and St. Albans Road to the south and a volunteer supported charity formed Causewayside to the east. The west boundary is less well defined, but is generally marked originally in 1974, which aims to support by the western boundary of the Astley Ainslie Hospital complex, Newbattle Terrace and and protect community interests, the Whitehouse Loan. The area falls within the Southside/ Newington and Marchmont and environment and local history of the Meadows wards, and is covered by three Community Councils, Grange/Prestonfield, Grange. The objects of the founding group Marchmont and Sciennes, and Morningside. The population of the Grange Conservation were to promote an interest in the character Area in 2011 was approximately 4600, in 2100 households. and quality of life in the area; to encourage a high standard of architecture and town Dates of designation/amendments planning and to react to proposals affecting the area’s development, to foster public The Grange Conservation Area was designated on 16 September 1983 and was extended amenity and to provide good relations on 29 March 1996 to include the whole of the Astley Ainslie Hospital. in the community. The assistance and enthusiasm of the Grange Association have Statement of significance been invaluable in the production of this document. The architectural form and green environment of the Grange are attributable to the picturesque movement and characterised by romantic, revivalist architectural forms Students and staff of the University of that are original and individual in composition. The buildings are complemented by the Edinburgh’s Architectural Conservation profusion of mature trees, spacious garden settings, stone boundary walls and green open MSc Programme have also made a valuable spaces. A significant level of uniformity is achieved from the use of local building materials, contribution to this document through their e.g. local grey sandstone in ashlar or coursed rubble with hand carved decoration, Scots analysis and observations of the Grange slates, timber framed sash and case windows with plate glass. area.

6 Conservation Area Character Appraisals Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Purpose of character appraisals – why do we need them? How to use this document

Conservation area character appraisals are intended to help manage change. They provide The analysis of the Grange’s character and an agreed basis of understanding of what makes an area special. This understanding appearance focuses on the features which informs and provides the context in which decisions can be made on proposals which may make the Grange special and distinctive. affect that character. An enhanced level of understanding, combined with appropriate This is divided into two sections: Structure, management tools, ensures that change and development sustains and respects the which describes and draws conclusions qualities and special characteristics of the area. regarding the overall organisation and macro-scale features of the area; and Key “When effectively managed, conservation areas can anchor thriving communities, sustain elements, which examines the smaller-scale cultural heritage, generate wealth and prosperity and add to quality of life. To realise features and details which fit within the this potential many of them need to continue to adapt and develop in response to the structure. The Astley Ainslie Hospital site modern-day needs and aspirations of living and working communities. This means is treated as a special sub-area with its own accommodating physical, social and economic change for the better. separate analysis. Physical change in conservation areas does not necessarily need to replicate its This document is not intended to give surroundings. The challenge is to ensure that all new development respects, enhances prescriptive instructions on what designs and has a positive impact on the area. Physical and land use change in conservation areas or styles will be acceptable in the area. should always be founded on a detailed understanding of the historic and urban design Instead, it can be used to ensure that the context.” design of an alteration or addition is based From PAN 71, Conservation Area Management. www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2004/12/20450/49052 on an informed interpretation of context. This context should be considered in conjunction with the relevant Local Development Plan policies and planning guidance.

The Management section outlines the policy and legislation relevant to decision- making in the area. Issues specific to the Grange are discussed in more detail and recommendations or opportunities identified

7 Historical origins and development Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal A review of the historical development of the Grange is important in order to understand how the area has evolved in its present form and adopted its essential character. The Grange, originally known as Sanct Geilies Grange - the grange or farm of St. Giles, was an important early medieval farming estate dating to before c.1120 when it was given to St Giles Kirk by Alexander I on its foundation. A grange farm was established by the Cistercian order, probably on the site of the 19th century farm located in Cumin Place, when it was given the land by David I in 1153.

Following the Reformation this farm formed part of the estate associated with Grange House, built in 1592. The land was largely common grazing, sloping towards Blackford Hill. William Dick, at one time the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, purchased the lands of the Grange in 1631. Two centuries later, his family became the feudal superiors of the Victorian residential development which forms the basis of the Grange Conservation Area.

1825 Feuing Plan

In 1825, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, made land from the Grange Estate available for development. The Grange Feuing Plan of 1825, which comprised a series of parallel streets between two major roads: Grange Road to the north and Dick Place to the south, remains a core townscape element of the area. Grange Road appears on the Plan as an access road linking the estate with a new road, now Newington Road. Other streets were proposed at right angles to the main east-west axes: Mansionhouse Road, Lauder Road and Cumin Place.

Cousin's 1851 Feuing Plans

The basis of the 1825 plan was respected in David Cousin's subsequent Feuing Plan of 1851, although the regular street pattern was relieved by slightly curving streets, providing a less formal layout and interesting vistas. These included Tantallon Place, St. Catherine's Place and Dalrymple Crescent. Cousin also planned straight streets, but changed the axis very subtly to achieve an ever-changing and interesting townscape. Findhorn Place and Lauder Road are notable examples.

8 Historical origins and development Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Raeburn's Feuing Plan

From the mid 19th century, increased demand for housing prompted Dick Lauder to commission Robert Reid Raeburn to design further feuing plans in 1858, 1864 and 1877. Under the first two plans, all available land as far south as Grange Loan was to be divided into smaller plots for individual houses set within their own private gardens. Minor variations to this pattern included a series of flatted dwellings with shops at the comers of Hatton Place. These were the only shops in Raeburn's plans. Individual or semi-detached houses in separate gardens remained the norm.

The 1877 Feuing Plan continued the established street pattern as far south as St. Alban's Road, the north side of which became the limit of the Grange. 1858 Feuing Plan Subsequent building, after 1877, included a terrace of four houses on the south side of Hope Terrace, St. Raphael's in South Oswald Road and Fountainhall Road Church (1897), now the site of Newington Public Library.

9 Historical origins and development Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Feuing Terms and Conditions

The feuing conditions imposed by the Dick Lauder family, detailed below, created the ordered and harmonious character of the Grange which is still evident today:

• all plans and elevations had to be approved in writing by the feu superior on the recommendation of the architect, and no building could commence until authorised;

• the land was to be feued for villas or dwelling houses only;

• uses other than residential were specifically prohibited;

• the height of development was restricted to two storeys and an attic;

• the siting of properties was controlled by stipulating the minimum distance of the house from the street;

• gardens were required to be planted and kept in good order;

• properties had to be enclosed with stone walls, and the walls were not to exceed eight feet in height, except by the consent of the conterminous feuars, and in no case to exceed ten feet high;

• footpaths were to be of high quality paving materials, raised above the bottom of the channel, edged with a hammer dressed kerbstone, and no wider than six feet nine inches;

• properties were to be of a minimum value, for example, at least £500 in 1851;

• a time limit of around four years was imposed on construction;

• Stables were permitted, but only to the rear of properties and not exceeding 20 feet in height;

• the sub-division of villas was regulated by the stipulation that separate entry to upper flats and attics was by an internal stair only; and

• residents were granted the use of the streets and feuars were prohibited from causing a public nuisance or disturbing their neighbours.

10 Historical origins and development Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Open spaces Astley Ainslie Hospital

The Astley Ainslie Hospital and Grange A chapel dedicated to St Roque, patron of plague sufferers, was established in the Canaan Cemetery form the principal open spaces. area, west of the Grange, in the early 16th century. Plague victims banished from Edinburgh Grange Cemetery was established in 1847 were housed at St. Roque and administered to by religious communities including the by the Edinburgh Southern Cemetery monks of the Grange of St Giles. Archaeological remains on the site include four large Company Ltd. The site was selected for cylindrical bosses, located at the base of the southern boundary wall of Southbank villa, its natural beauty, seclusion, freedom from which possibly formed part of the historic chapel. pollution and close proximity to the city. The Canaan Estate in which St Roque’s chapel lay was created at the feuing of the Burgh David Bryce designed and laid out the Muir in 1586. The collection of Biblical place names around the Canaan area, including Cemetery, which comprised an open space Little Egypt, may originate from the site of a gypsy camp; the term gypsy being a corruption of twelve acres with a mortuary chapel of Egyptian, based on a misunderstanding of their origins. above vaults in the centre of the ground. The estate was used for farming and related industries up until 1803, when the area between Grange Loan and Canaan Lane was feued out into large (c.3 acre) plots for residential development. Small country mansions or villas with private, walled grounds and extensive gardens were developed by a group of intellectuals, university professors and medical practitioners. The development of the Canaan Estate therefore prefaces the development of the main area of the Grange through the Dick Lauder and subsequent plans by 20- 30 years. The current use of the site as a medical and educational establishment maintains the connection with the professions and interests of the first feuars.

By the early 20th century the site had become a nine hole golf course bordered by villas. This area was acquired under the will of John Ainslie in 1921 and became the Canaan Estate 1849 with Canaan Park and site of the new Astley Ainslie Hospital in 1922. Most St Roque shaded (courtesy of University of of the villas were retained and converted for hospital use, thus preserving the essential Edinburgh, Urban Conservation) character of the earlier villa development. The distinctive butterfly-plan pavilions facing Blackford Hill were erected in the 1930s.

11 Historical origins and development Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Twentieth and Twenty-first Centuries Historical activity

The character of the Grange was well Although the Dick Lauder feuing conditions restricted non-residential uses in that part established by the end of the 19th century. of the area, changes appeared over time, primarily introducing uses connected with No major changes took place in the Grange health, social and community care such as nursing homes, schools/colleges, churches/ in the first half of the 20th century apart community centres and a library. A certain amount of industrial activity also developed from some notable additions in the inter- at the peripheries of the area during the 19th century, such as the William Younger & Co. war years and the controversial demolition Artesian Wells in Grange Loan. The evolution of the Astley Ainslie site is the only example of Grange House in 1936, to make way for a of the development of non-residential activities on a large scale in the Grange area. new development of bungalows and flatted villas. The gatepiers from Grange House, Summary surmounted by the Lauder Wyverns, were re-erected on Grange Loan, one at the The development of the Grange reflected changes to the settlement pattern and suburban corner of Lover's Loan and the other c.65m expansion which occurred in Edinburgh in the mid-19th century. While the rigorous west of Lauder Road. terms and conditions of the historic feuing plans controlled the standards and scale of development in the Grange, the characteristic styles of its architecture and landscape Since the Second World War, development features were fashioned more by picturesque influences which became popular during has mainly occurred within the gardens of the Victorian era. some of the larger villas, although a small number of villas have been demolished to A large part of the Grange was developed around 1830, when such ideas were being make way for new developments. Notable adopted by the growing middle class of merchants and professionals in Edinburgh who examples of inter- and post-war architecture were seeking a more secluded environment in which to raise their families. The Grange in the Grange have been recognised by had the advantages of physical separation from the overcrowded medieval city core listing, and contribute to its architectural and offered individual dwellings in a predominantly suburban setting in contrast to the quality, including the Strathearn Road tenements of the Georgian New Town. Detached or semi-detached houses within their Postal Sorting Office (1919); the Astley own private gardens bounded by high stone walls provided an attractive contrast to the Ainslie Scientific Block (1929); 40-42 and communal living of the central area, and the fashions and desires of property owners are 46a Dick Place (1934); 14 Kilgraston Road reflected in the profusion of architectural styles and individual or idiosyncratic features. The (1937) and 10 St Thomas Rd (1961). More outstanding quality of many of the villas is due to the insistence of the Dick Lauder family recently, a number of striking contemporary on high architectural standards. The suburb, virtually complete by 1890, represented the extensions have added further to the idealisation of country living within an urban setting. evolution of the area’s architecture.

12 Special Characteristics - Structure Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography, setting and views Development pattern Grain and density

Gently sloping, south facing land. Hierarchical grid street pattern with clearly Low density, rhythmic pattern of precisely defined blocks. sited buildings. Strict formality relieved by curves and Gaps between buildings create space and other variations. glimpses of gardens. Formal and picturesque composition.

Streets Spaces

Layout creates inward-looking, short-range Astley Ainslie Hospital and Grange and glimpse views. Cemetery form principal public open spaces. Boundary walls enhance formal definition between public and private.

13 Special Characteristics - Structure Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography

The Grange Conservation Area is situated approximately one mile to the south of Edinburgh city centre on gently sloping south facing land. The slope declines gently from an upper ridge on which Grange and Strathearn Roads are built, one of a series of glacial drumlins extending east-west from Arthur’s Seat.

Setting

The conservation area is bounded by residential areas and local town centres of contrasting character on all sides: Bruntsfield, Marchmont and Sciennes to the north; Causewayside and Newington to the east; Blackford and the south suburban railway line to the south and Morningside and Churchhill to the west. The protected open spaces of Blackford Hill, Braid Hills and the Craigmillar Park Golf Course to the south provide a welcome visual contrast and amenity area.

Views

View cones defined by the Council’s Skyline Study cross the Grange area although none originate within it. These include views of the city’s core landmarks from the Braid Hills, Blackford Hill, Buckstone Snab and Liberton; and the reverse southward views from the Castle Esplanade. Prominent development within the Grange would therefore potentially impact in the fore- and middle ground of several key views.

Within the Grange, tall garden walls, mature trees and relatively flat topography give much of the area an inward-looking character with few longer-range views available. The exceptions are the southward vistas along Kilgraston Road, Whitehouse Loan and Blackford Avenue allowing views of the Braid and Blackford Hills. Restricted views of Arthur’s Seat are also available from the north-east corner of the conservation area. Mid- and short-range views are important, framed by the grid street pattern and formal building siting. Glimpse views through the gaps between detached buildings enhance the picturesque qualities of the townscape.

14 Special Characteristics - Structure Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development pattern

The plan form of the Grange is the product of regulation by consecutive feuing plans which dictated the street layout, buildings, gardens, boundaries and public spaces. The intersecting street pattern is simple and uncluttered. This incorporates the classical grid pattern of Dick Lauder and Cousin's less rigid layout, and exploits the natural topography and south facing aspect.

The few areas which contrast significantly with this prevailing pattern occur principally in the areas of open space, towards the south and at the edges of the development where variations have been incorporated to provide terraced dwellings, shops and services.

Grain and density

The density of development is generally very low. Dwellings on many corner sites in the Grange are sited to take advantage of the southern aspect. Houses on the north side of the street are generally situated to maximise front gardens, whereas most properties on the south side have larger rear gardens. Building line and separation are therefore of key importance.

The separation of dwellings creates a characteristic rhythm and solid-void repetition between precisely-sited structures of similar scale and massing. The spacious gardens provide an important setting for the buildings and mature trees within.

The gaps between buildings are important in maintaining the dominant green character, a sense of generous space, and glimpse views of rear and side gardens.

15 Special Characteristics - Structure Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streets

The feuing plans allowed for streets of generous proportions, with relative widths reflecting the principal and secondary routes through the development. The intersecting street pattern forms a series of clearly defined blocks. Possibly the oldest route across the area, Lovers’ Loan, is preserved as a pedestrian path.

Spaces

The majority of open space in the Grange is in private gardens. There are no major areas of public open space. However, Astley Ainslie Hospital, Grange Cemetery and the Carlton Cricket Ground provide welcome, open green spaces which contribute to the landscape character of the conservation area. The special characteristics of the Astley Ainslie Hospital are described on page 25.

Grange Cemetery retains its original sense of peace and seclusion, providing the amenity of a pleasant, formally-planned open space with lawns, flowers and mature trees. The cemetery contains a large number of fine Victorian ornamental headstones.

Situated at the corner of Grange Loan and Lover's Loan, the Carlton Cricket Ground is the other main expansive green area which contributes to the amenity and spacious nature of the Grange.

Smaller open spaces, often partly hidden from public view, also contribute to the history and character of the area. These include the Jewish cemetery at Sciennes House Place; bowling greens and tennis courts at Hope Terrace and Eden Lane; and the amenity strip with mature trees on the south side of Sciennes Road.

16 Special Characteristics - Key elements Grange Conservation Area Scale (1) Scale (2) Building types and styles Character Appraisal

Two storey detached and semi-detached Generous scale and fine proportions Dominant architectural symmetry and dwellings, precisely sited verticality, Revivalist styles

Landmarks Materials and details Trees and gardens

Prominent churches act as landmarks High quality sandstone ashlar and natural Generous private gardens and mature slate trees create green character

Streetscape (1) Streetscape (2) Activity

High rubble boundary walls, railings and Public services integrated into boundary Quiet seclusion hedges walls 17 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Scale

Feuing requirements restricted the height of development to two storeys and an attic. Detached and semi-detached dwellings predominate. A significant proportion have been subdivided to form flats but generally retain the original footprint and height.

Buildings are designed to impress in terms of their scale and presence, quality of design and proportions. Tall boundary walls, or in some areas railings and hedges, give a distinctive sense of scale and enclosure to the public street.

18 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building types and styles

Property owners were given a degree of freedom in the design of individual properties, resulting in a diversity of architectural styles. Revivalist styles such as Scots Baronial, Jacobean Gothic and Italianate Classical feature prominently. Formal and picturesque dwellings of generous scale and fine proportions, precisely sited in generous feus, became the prevailing pattern. There is a clear dominance of symmetry in the composition of front elevations, as well as a strong preference for the vertical over the horizontal, created by repeating features of bays, dormers, turrets and chimneys.

Changes in housing demand towards the end of the 19th century and into the 20th created a greater variety of dwelling types, mainly at the edges of the estate. Detached dwellings become less prevalent south of Grange Loan, with greater numbers of terraced and semi-detached villas. Mid-20th century infill and replacements of earlier villas also created variety, particularly west of Blackford Avenue, with larger-footprint apartment blocks more common here.

The International Modern style was introduced to Edinburgh in the Grange with Kininmonth and Spence’s 46a Dick Place of 1933. 10 St Thomas Rd by Morris & Steedman of 1961 is an important post- war contribution to the architectural quality of the area. 19 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks

Although the Grange is primarily a residential area with few public buildings, the presence of a number of churches occupying prominent locations, mostly at or near cross-roads, contributes to the townscape character and views into and out of the conservation area.

Marchmont St. Giles (1871), originally the Robertson Memorial Church, is the most prominent single building in the Grange due to its situation in an isolated position on rising ground in Kilgraston Road at the west end of the Grange Cemetery. The c.50m spire is visible from many points across the city.

St Catherine’s Argyle and the former Salisbury Church at the corner of Grange Road and Causewayside are important local markers. Two further key orientation points for the conservation area are located outwith it: Mayfield Salisbury Church, Mayfield Road and the Royal Observatory, Blackford Hill.

St Catherine’s Argyle Marchmont St Giles 20 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Materials and details

A significant level of uniformity is achieved from the use of local building materials, despite the considerable range of building styles. The predominant materials are local grey sandstone in ashlar or coursed rubble for buildings and garden walls, with hand carved decoration; natural slate, often Scots slate, for roofs; and timber framed sash and case windows with plate glass.

21 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Trees and gardens

Private gardens dominate the landscape character of the Grange. The area contains approximately 10,000 trees of more than 120 species and its uniformity is largely dependent on this profusion of mature trees. They are valuable for their appearance and environmental benefits, such as dampening noise and providing shelter for houses and gardens against wind and frost, ‘green lungs’ for surrounding, less wooded areas and habitats for wildlife. Large trees are of particular importance as they partially obscure dwellings from public view.

Many of the existing trees in the Grange were planted as part of the original villa development, and the majority of the trees are over one hundred years old. Significant growth of mature trees has also happened since the end of the Second World War, once gardens were no longer needed for intensive food cultivation to support the war effort. Over 90% of trees are located in individual private gardens although there is a row of street trees which formed part of the original boundary of the estate in Sciennes Road; nine mature trees (sycamores, horse chestnuts and a lime) in Glenisla Gardens, and a few other isolated examples.

22 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streetscape

The dimensions and finish of footpaths The typical, high stone walls of the Grange Public services have been set into boundary were specified in the original feuing add to its sense of visual and physical walls wherever possible. Electricity conditions and are important in setting seclusion, and reflect the romantic ideal equipment boxes as well as traditional the proportions and symmetry of streets. of country estate living. The geometric red post boxes are tidily recessed into the Very little Caithness stone paving remains, pattern of walls of mainly uniform height masonry walls. This gives the streets of although many of the original granite kerbs gives definition to the street layout and an the Grange a distinctive uncluttered and and solid stone dished channels still exist. air of formality by making a clear distinction spacious appearance. Historic setting, flags and other streetscape between public and private spaces. The Two further elements of the historic Grange materials may survive in places below robustness, continuity and quality of House survive in Grange Loan and add modern finishes. Hope Terrace is one of detailing of these boundary treatments, interest to the streetscape; the Wyverns the few streets in the Grange which retains such as gatepiers, ironwork and dressed which decorated the gatepiers of the its original setted surface. No historic street copings, provide the public face of the house, now moved from their original furniture is believed to survive, although more secluded, private architecture behind. locations; and the remains of the Penny modern street lighting heights reflect the Variations in boundary type, design and Well (capped in the 1940s but retaining an historic hierarchy of circulation. material, the visual permeability of railings, inscribed plaque). gates and planting, and regular punctuation with pedestrian gates reduces the ‘barrier’ effect by allowing glimpse views.

23 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Activity

Uses other than residential were specifically prohibited in the original feuing conditions, and in the majority of the Grange the quiet, secluded character intended by these stipulations remains the case. However, residential uses have been gradually appended with a variety of local services and businesses, mostly focused at the edges of the area adjacent to the local commercial centres of Marchmont, Causewayside and Morningside. A number of large former villas have been converted to various institutional and commercial uses.

Population density in the Grange gradually increased during the 20th century as properties were subdivided, villas replaced with flatted developments and plots subdivided to create infill development. Demand for development of multi-occupancy blocks has continued in some areas. However population growth appears to have slowed in recent years and there may be some evidence of a reversal of the earlier trends, with subdivided houses being returned to single-family use and some infill plots being developed as single houses. Home working and a trend for extension rather than re-location has also created demand for adapted and extended residential properties.

Vehicular traffic has of course become increasingly dominant through the 20th and 21st centuries and both passive and active traffic management measures have been introduced throughout the area. Pedestrian and cycle permeability of the area is excellent, including Lovers’ Loan, part of the Core Paths network, and Astley Ainslie, popular as an attractive short-cut.

24 Special Characteristics - Astley Ainslie Hospital Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Astley Ainsley Hospital site contrasts with the majority of the Grange in both use and character, being a large, open, publicly-accessible site in health/educational use with a significant element of 20th century architecture.

Topography, setting and views Development pattern, grain and density

Secluded site enclosed by boundary walls and formal gates. Attractive, landscaped open space with significant mature tree cover Early villa and garden layout provides structure for later insertions

Scale Building types, materials and details

2-3 storey buildings which respect their landscape setting Notable early 20th century healthcare buildings sit comfortably in the landscape High quality architecture of two contrasting types, C19th villas and C20th pavilions

25 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography, setting and views

The site is relatively level with a slight slope downwards from north to south. The site is relatively secluded behind high boundary walls and planting. However, the summit and northern slopes of Blackford Hill and the Royal Observatory building are extensively in view from the site. Conversely, the site occupies a major part of the foreground of important views from Blackford Hill across the Grange and towards the city centre skyline.

26 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development pattern, grain and density

Evidence of the strong north-south plot divisions of the 1803 estate feuing plan remain in the current layout, with villas at Canaan House, Canaan Park, St Roque and Morelands remaining in situ. Some of their ancillary structures such as lodges, garden walls and garden sculpture survive to define the historic grain. The line of Canaan Lane also appears to have been defined by the 1803 feuing layout.

The green structure of the site consists of perimeter tree belts, internal belts enclosing separate villas and individual specimens, all of which again reflect the historic layout, even where individuals are of later origin. The main exception is the large coniferous plantation at the south side of the site. The whole site except this plantation is protection by a Tree Preservation Order.

Later development, most significantly the 1930s insertions by Auldjo, Jamieson and Arnott, although contrasting in footprint and style, generally fit comfortably within and preserve the earlier landscape structure.

27 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Scale

The 19th century villas are mainly of 2 to 3 storeys on a compact footprint. The 20th century pavilions spread out further into the parkland setting with extended ‘butterfly’ plans over one or two storeys. However the generous scale of the overall site ensures that even the larger structures do not dominate their landscape setting.

Building types, materials and details

The character of the 19th century villa development largely reflects that of the main body of the Grange (see sections 4.1 and 4.2). However, alterations and additions reflect their later adaptation for health care use, including evidence of shelters for outdoor recuperation at Canaan Park.

The 1930s development, beginning with the Millbank Pavilion and a series of similar butterfly pavilions, reflects the designers’ intention to provide therapeutic spaces for tuberculosis sufferers, requiring access to fresh air, light and the outdoor environment. These buildings follow a general pattern of symmetrical planning with stripped classical detailing. The horizontal emphasis of deep roofs, eaves and broad dormers is counteracted by the vertical rhythm of pilasters and chimneys. Materials generally consist of harled walls, artificial stone detailing and tiled roofs.

The entrance gates at Whitehouse Loan and Canaan Lane provide important focal points. Although contemporary with the 1930s butterfly pavilions, these outward-facing features are more historicist in style, emulating Georgian architecture.

Art installations are a distinctive feature of the site, with several examples of sculpture which enrich the landscape setting, such as National Health Service by Edith Simon (1980).

28 Management - Legislation, policies and guidance Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Conservation areas a material consideration when considering 11, 12 applications for development within The Planning (Listed Buildings and • Listed buildings ENV 2-4 conservation areas. Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997 • Conservation areas ENV 5-6 states that conservation areas "are areas • Historic gardens and designed of special architectural or historic interest, Listed buildings landscapes ENV 7 the character or appearance of which it is A significant proportion of buildings desirable to preserve or enhance". Local within the Grange are listed for their • Archaeology ENV 8-9 authorities have a statutory duty to identify special architectural or historic interest • Trees ENV 12 and designate such areas. and are protected under the Planning • Natural heritage and nature (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Special attention must be paid to conservation ENV 10-16 (Scotland) Act 1997. Listed building the character and appearance of the consent is required for the demolition of a The proposed City of Edinburgh Local conservation area when planning controls listed building, or its alteration or extension Development Plan (LDP) contains are being exercised. Conservation area in any manner which would affect its special broadly similar policies and is a material status brings a number of special controls: character. consideration in current planning decisions. • The demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent. National policy Planning guidance

• Permitted development rights, which The Scottish Historic Environment Policy More detailed, subject-specific guidance is allow improvements or alterations to the (SHEP) is the strategic statement of national set out in Planning Guidance documents. external appearance of dwellinghouses policy relating to the historic environment. Those particularly relevant to the Grange and flatted dwellings, are removed. Conservation Area are:

• Works to trees are controlled (see Trees The development plan • Guidance for Householders for more detail). The Edinburgh City Local Plan sets out • Guidance for Businesses The demolition of unlisted buildings policies and proposals for the development • Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas considered to make a positive contribution and use of land in the City. The policies in to the area is only permitted in exceptional the Plan are used to determine applications • Developer contributions and affordable circumstances, and where the proposals for development. housing meet certain criteria relating to condition, In broad summary, the key policy areas • Edinburgh Design guidance conservation deficit, adequacy of efforts affecting the Grange Conservation Area to retain the building and the relative • Communications Infrastructure are: public benefit of replacement proposals. • Street Design Guidance - draft to be Conservation area character appraisals are • Design of new development DES 1, 3, 5, published in 2014 29 Management - Legislation, policies and guidance Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal In addition, a number of statutory tools 7 The erection, construction, a strong presumption against any form are available to assist development maintenance, improvement or of development or change of use of land management within the conservation area: alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other which is likely to damage or prejudice means of enclosure; the future long term existence of trees covered by a TPO. The removal of trees for GPDO and Article 4 Directions 38 Development by statutory undertakers arboricultural reasons will not imply that the for the purpose of water undertakings; The Town and Country Planning (General space created by their removal can be used Permitted Development) (Scotland) 39 Development by public gas supplier; for development. Order 1992, amended 2012, (abbreviated to GPDO), restricts the types of 40 Development by electricity statutory Further information on trees and development which can be carried out in undertaker; woodlands. a conservation area without the need for 41 Tramway or road transport undertakings planning permission. These include most Landscape and Biodiversity (structure map) alterations to the external appearance of The Council has an obligation to take account dwellinghouses and flats. Development Trees (elements map) of the impact of development on species is not precluded, but such alterations will Trees within conservation areas are protected by legislation and international require planning permission and special covered by the Town and Country Planning commitments. The Nature Conservation attention will be paid to the potential (Scotland) Act 1997. This Act applies to (Scotland) Act 2004 places a duty on all effect of proposals. See Guidance on the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree public bodies to further the conservation of Householder Permitted Development having a diameter exceeding 75mm at biodiversity as far as is consistent with their Rights 2012. a point 1.5m above ground level. The functions. The conservation area contains Under Article 4 of the GPDO the planning planning authority must be given six weeks no nature conservation designations but its authority can seek the approval of the notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop rich garden landscape and open spaces at Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict trees. Failure to give notice will render the Grange Cemetery and Astley Ainslie give development rights further. The Directions person liable to the same penalties as for it a high amenity and biodiversity value. effectively control the proliferation contravention of a Tree Preservation Order The area is bounded to the south by the of relatively minor developments in (TPO). Blackford Hill/Braid Hills/Craigmillar Park conservation areas which can cumulatively Golf Course area which is protected by a TPOs are used to secure the preservation lead to the erosion of character and range of local and national landscape and of trees which are of significant stature, in appearance. The Grange Conservation natural heritage designations including an sound condition, and prominently located Area has Article 4 Directions covering the area of great landscape value, local nature to be of public amenity value. When following classes of development: reserve, areas of ancient woodland, and a assessing contribution to amenity, the site of special scientific interest (SSSI). importance of trees as wildlife habitats will be taken into consideration. There is 30 Management - Legislation, policies and guidance Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Grange Conservation Area contains Remains of these structures may survive no landscapes included in the national below existing development, although the Inventory of Gardens and Designed extent of their survival is currently unknown Landscapes. due to the lack of modern archaeological investigations in the area. Depending on Further information on landscape and the scale and impact of any development biodiversity: proposal, the City of Edinburgh Council

• Landscape and Scenery Archaeology Service (CECAS) may recommend a pre-determination evaluation • Local Nature Sites and Protected in order to assess the presence and Species significance of any surviving archaeological deposits and to determine the scope Archaeology (historical map) of any required mitigation including The Grange area was the location of several preservation. Similarly for works affecting significant sites prior to its development standing structures of historic significance, for housing from the mid-19th century a programme of archaeological building onwards. These were primarily related to assessment and recording may be its ecclesiastical connections, including the recommended. The Grange area contains chapel sites at St Roque and St Catherine no scheduled ancient monuments. of Sienna, their associated burial grounds and Grange Farm.

The area may contain the remains of a range of historic sites and uses including lades and ponds possibly associated with the Cistercian Grange Farm, post medieval quarry sites, the leper colony of St Roque, the Penny Well & toll and Astley Ainslie Hospital. Kirkwood’s Plan of the City of Edinburgh and Its Environs 1817 (see historic mapping) provides a good indication of the locations of these sites.

31 Management - Pressures and sensitivities Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal The following pressures are associated with contemporary new-build and extensions Development of villa grounds development proposals which conservation could threaten the character of the area A major pressure is on the setting of villas, area designation, together with the Council’s if used indiscriminately or excessively. garden space and boundary walls and the policies and guidance, are designed to Multiple developments in close proximity loss of mature trees through extensions to manage. The Edinburgh Design Guidance, can have a negative cumulative effect on existing property and the erection of new Guidance for Householders and Listed character. developments within villa grounds. Buildings and Conservation Areas explain Recommendation: The unity and quality the Council’s approach to design in historic Key elements of the area’s special of the architecture of the Grange creates contexts. characteristics are potentially at risk a need for a sensitivity of approach to any through such development, such as the Architectural unity intervention. Most importantly, design separation/distinction between buildings of interventions should be based on a While the original feuing plans of the area and the important gaps between them. sound understanding of context. Policy contained a wide variety of architectural This type of development may also risk the DES1 of the Edinburgh City Local Plan and details and styles, often influenced by creation of uncharacteristic expanses of Proposed Local Development Plan requires contemporary fashionable architects, there hard-landscaping and parking, and the loss that design should be based on an overall was an architectural unity which resulted of green landscaping and trees. design concept that draws upon positive from the strict feuing conditions and the characteristics of the surrounding area to Recommendation: Special guidance consistent use of similar materials. Prior create or reinforce a sense of place. applies to extensions and alterations to to conservation area designation, the villas to respect their special characteristics architectural unity of the Grange was The Council’s planning guidance generally (see Guidance for Householders, p.8). eroded in places by inappropriately scaled, states a presumption for sandstone and Townscape gaps, glimpse views of gardens flatted developments, extensions and other traditional, natural materials where and the characteristic separation of outbuildings using poor quality materials. these form the predominant palette in the buildings should be carefully considered surroundings of the development. High Despite making the most significant in proposals for side extension or quality, innovative modern designs and contribution to the character of the development of garden areas to avoid materials are not precluded, but proposals conservation area, detached and semi- amalgamation of plots or the creation must be able to demonstrate their respect detached houses in the Grange make up of a terraced effect where this is not the for the historic character of the host less than 25% of the total number. There may distinctive character. building and the area. The cumulative be continuing pressure for the demolition effect of multiple developments within the The green character of front and side of certain villas and redevelopment of the same street or area should be taken into gardens should remain dominant where grounds, and the development of empty account. additional on-site parking is proposed. feus or parcels of garden land. Contrasting, non-traditional materials and design in

32 Management - Pressures and sensitivities Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Boundary treatments Conversely, traditional boundaries no when there is no foliage to disguise the longer exist in some areas, particularly in form, and the tree is left exposed to The historic boundary treatments of the relation to 20th century multi-occupancy invasion by disease and rot. There has also area contribute to a sense of privacy and residential or commercial buildings been a tendency to plant small trees, such seclusion that remains sought-after in which require larger vehicle openings as cherries, rowans and crab apples, which modern development. However, the use and expanses of hard landscaping for fail to provide the appropriate scale, shelter of long expanses of completely opaque car parking or communal facilities. The and natural habitat of the larger species. boundaries and gates can alienate traditional divisions between public and properties from the street and create a Recommendations: Proper management private, and the quality of the buildings’ fortified, unwelcoming character. Historic of trees requires collaboration between the setting, have been eroded in these areas. boundaries tend to retain a degree of visual planning authority and owners if the most permeability through the use of railings, Recommendation: These sites would benefit important specimens of various species are gates or planting or through intermittent, from the introduction or reinstatement to be preserved. The gradual renewal of relatively narrow openings such as of narrower openings and more formal trees should be designed to preserve scale pedestrian gates and secure viewing boundaries which and variety. Proposals to plant, cut back or panels. would help to define remove trees must be considered for the both the public street impact on the overall appearance of the Recommendation: Where alterations to edge and the private Grange, to ensure that the fine townscape existing boundaries or the creation of new grounds. Signage in of the original feuing plans is preserved. boundaries are being considered, a balance relation to access to It is also important to consider the whole should be retained between the strong and management of environment of shade, protection from the character of solid boundaries creating multi-occupancy sites elements and noise reduction. Above all, privacy, and the visual relief provided also requires sensitive the character of trees in the Grange, i.e. by limited openings and variations in design. freely growing and fully expressive of their treatment. individuality, should not be compromised.

Loss of mature trees The following measures could assist this Several factors have led to the reduction process: of mature trees in the Grange. While a • appropriate planting should be significant percentage of trees was lost encouraged in areas which have lost during the outbreak of Dutch Elm disease, a substantial number of large trees, others have been removed to facilitate particularly on corner sites where large parking or extensions, or have been trees could easily be accommodated; subjected to lopping. Lopping produces poor aesthetic results, especially in winter • tree thinning should be promoted as

33 Management - Management - Grange Opportunities for development Opportunities for planning action Conservation Area Character Appraisal an alternative to lopping in order to Astley Ainslie Hospital - Small-scale Conservation area boundaries: the preserve the character and outline of development opportunities for infill or boundaries have been examined through the tree; replacement may arise throughout the the appraisal process. They are considered Grange area, and the issues connected to encapsulate the special character • if large trees cannot be salvaged with these are discussed above. The of the Grange and no changes are without unacceptable loss of form and only major opportunity site likely to arise proposed at present. A future review of character, they should only be replaced within the conservation area is the Astley the Causewayside and Morningside Road with similar species; Ainslie Hospital. The site’s owners, NHS areas may result in recommendations for • replacement trees should be selected Lothian, may develop plans to re-organise amendments to adjoining conservation to form strong, but unobtrusive settings or relocate hospital facilities within or area boundaries which may in turn affect for individual houses and contribute to outwith the site. Development here has the the Grange boundary. However this would an integrating framework for the whole potential to significantly affect the character be addressed in the justification for any area; and of the site itself and that of the wider area. proposed changes to those areas adjoining

• framework trees should be broad- The Council has produced a Planning Brief the Grange. leaved, long lived, hardy, and interesting addressing the main issues for the site. in form. They should be in scale with Inappropriate development here has the and provide a setting for the buildings. potential to significantly affect the character of the site itself and that of the wider area. The historic buildings – both listed and unlisted, extensive woodland planting, mature trees and the permeability of the site will be key considerations in the preservation of the character of the conservation area. Piecemeal developments occurring at the edges of the site in advance of any overall proposal should be considered in context of the character of the whole and their potential cumulative effect.

34 Management - Grange Opportunities for enhancement Conservation Area Character Appraisal Sciennes Road - the strip of open space with Roads, parking and signage - although mature trees and shrubs on the south side little historic street surfacing survives in of the road, opposite the Royal Hospital for the Grange, general road and pavement Sick Children and Sciennes Primary School, surfacing are in poor condition in places would benefit from enhanced landscaping and would benefit from renewal. Surviving and planting, and repairs or improvements historic materials should be conserved to its boundary fencing. Its potential as an in situ (see Streetscape section) and area of accessible amenity space should be conservation-appropriate new materials investigated. should be specified where possible.

Grange Cemetery - a number of containers Controlled parking has been introduced in and portakabins detract from the special parts of the Grange but there is a concern character of the cemetery. The area that commuter and long-stay visitors are would benefit from the development of being pushed into the outer, uncontrolled a more sensitive solution for storage and areas, creating congestion and visual management of cemetery maintenance. clutter. Potential solutions to this issue Historic gravestones which have been should be investigated. laid flat for safety should be repaired and Parking and other road user requirements remounted. have introduced a variety of signs, markings and equipment which in places have created visual clutter. A community-led scheme to mount signs on walls rather than poles has helped to reduce this in some streets and this scheme should be continued.

35 Sources Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal Print

Cant, Malcolm, Marchmont, Sciennes and the Grange, Malcolm Cant Publications, 2001

Gifford, McWilliam & Walker, The Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh, Penguin, 1984

Grange Association, The Grange, A Case for Conservation, 1982

Harris, Stuart, The Place Names of Edinburgh, Steve Savage, 2002

Smith, Charles J., Historic South Edinburgh (Volume 1), Charles Skilton Ltd, 2000

Web

Edinburgh Skyline Study

The Grange Association

National Library of Scotland online mapping

PAN 71, Conservation Area Management

Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics

36 Grange Conservation Area Character Appraisal

For further information please contact: [email protected]

0131 529 4238 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Contents

Historical Map ��3

Structure Map ��4

Key Elements Map ��5

Summary information ��6

Conservation Area Character Appraisals ��7

Historical origins and development ��8

Special Characteristics ��11

Structure ��11

Key elements ��15

Management ��21

Legislation, policies and guidance ��21

Opportunities for development ��29

Opportunities for planning action ��30

Opportunities for enhancement ��31

Sources ��32

2 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Historical Map Conservation Area Boundary

1884 map

1907 map

1931 map

1945 aerial

1955 map

3 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Structure Map Conservation Area Boundary

Grain and Density

Footpaths/Cycle Route

Local Biodiversity Sites

Grid Layout

Views

Open Space

4 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Key Elements Map Conservation Area Boundary

Heritage Trees

Tree Preservation Order

Listed Buildings

Landmarks & Focal Points

Activity

5 Summary information Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Location and boundaries Acknowledgements The Inverleith Conservation Area is located to the north of the New Town Conservation This document has been produced with the Area, 1.5 kilometres north of the city centre and covers an area of 232 hectares. assistance of Stockbridge and Inverleith Community Council and the Inverleith The conservation area is bounded by Ferry Road to the north, the western boundary of Society. Fettes College, Warriston Gardens/Inverleith Row/Eildon Street and Comely Bank/Water of Leith/Glenogle Road to the south. The boundary includes Fettes College, Inverleith Park, the Royal Botanic Garden and Tanfield.

The area falls within Inverleith, Forth and Leith Walk wards and is covered by the Stockbridge/Inverleith, Trinity and New Town/Broughton Community Councils. The population of Inverleith Conservation Area in 2011 was 4887.

Dates of designation/amendments The conservation area was originally designated in October 1977. The boundary was amended in 1996 and again in 2006 to exclude areas which no longer contributed to the character of the conservation area. A conservation area character appraisal was published in 2006, and a management plan in 2010. The Stockbridge Colonies were removed from the Inverleith Conservation Area boundary in 2013 to form a separate conservation area. Article 4 Directions were approved in 1996. The content of the management plan has been integrated into, and superseded by, this appraisal.

Statement of significance Inverleith Conservation Area is characterised by landscaped open spaces, surrounded by development dating principally from the early 19th to the mid-20th century. The quality and variety of spaces for recreational and sporting use, with their cumulative scenic qualities and views across the city, are the area’s most significant feature. High quality, primarily residential buildings in a restricted palette of traditional, natural materials, laid out in a street pattern, density and form reflecting the adjacent open spaces, complement the scenic characteristics.

6 Conservation Area Character Appraisals Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Purpose of character appraisals – why do we need them? How to use this document Conservation area character appraisals are intended to help manage change. They provide The analysis of Inverleith’s character and an agreed basis of understanding of what makes an area special. This understanding appearance focuses on the features which informs and provides the context in which decisions can be made on proposals which may make the area special and distinctive. This is affect that character. An enhanced level of understanding, combined with appropriate divided into two sections: ‘Structure’, which management tools, ensures that change and development sustains and respects the describes and draws conclusions regarding qualities and special characteristics of the area. the overall organisation and macro-scale features of the area; and ‘Key elements’, “When effectively managed, conservation areas can anchor thriving communities, sustain which examines the smaller-scale features cultural heritage, generate wealth and prosperity and add to quality of life. To realise and details which fit within the structure. this potential many of them need to continue to adapt and develop in response to the modern-day needs and aspirations of living and working communities. This means This document is not intended to give accommodating physical, social and economic change for the better. prescriptive instructions on what designs or styles will be acceptable in the area. Physical change in conservation areas does not necessarily need to replicate its Instead, it can be used to ensure that surroundings. The challenge is to ensure that all new development respects, enhances the design of an alteration or addition and has a positive impact on the area. Physical and land use change in conservation areas is based on an informed interpretation should always be founded on a detailed understanding of the historic and urban design of context. This context should be context.” considered in conjunction with the relevant From PAN 71, Conservation Area Management. www.gov.scot/Publications/2004/12/20450/49052 Local Development Plan policies and planning guidance. The ‘Management’ section outlines the policy and legislation relevant to decision-making in the area. Issues specific to Inverleith are discussed in more detail and recommendations or opportunities identified.

7 Historical origins and development Inverleith Conservation Area

A review of the historical development of Inverleith is important in order to understand Character Appraisal how the area has evolved in its present form and adopted its essential character.

Origins Estates development The name Inverleith may come from the With the opening of Canonmills Bridge in British or Gaelic inver and leith, the lower 1767, Inverleith Row developed as a key link basin of or the mouth of Leith, although between the city and Ferry Road, the route some documents refer to ‘Inner Leith’. linking the Port of Leith with Queensferry. Development started in the south-east Inverleith is mentioned in 1128 in David’s corner of the Inverleith and Warriston charter founding Holyroodhouse, and estates, west of Canonmills Bridge, associates the name with the place that beginning in 1807 with Warriston Crescent, was to become North Leith. However, the following the curve of the Water of Leith. estate charters in 1315-21 place the centre The road from Stockbridge into the Fettes of the medieval Inverleith estate close to estate of Comely Bank was developed with the site of the present Inverleith House. a new terrace of houses in 1817. The Inverleith estate was acquired by the Rocheid family in 1665, and the present The relocation of the Botanic Garden Inverleith House was built in 1774 for James to Inverleith in the 1820s stimulated Rocheid. The farm which occupied much of development of Georgian villas along its the estate was reorganised into North and eastern and northern edges on Inverleith South Inverleith Mains during 18th century Row and Inverleith Place. These villas improvements. represent some of the earliest suburban houses in Edinburgh. Development was inhibited at the south end by the nearby industries of Tanfield.

During the 19th century, feuing of single house plots continued westwards and northwards around the developing blocks of open space at Inverleith Park, Fettes College and the numerous sports grounds. The busier junctions at the north and south ends of Inverleith Row were developed in the later 19th century with tenement blocks with ground floor shops.

8 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Parks, gardens and institutions The Royal Botanic Garden began as a Physic Garden on a small site near Holyrood Palace in 1670. By 1676, it occupied an area where the north-east corner of Waverley Station now stands and was known as the Town Garden. The Royal Botanic Garden received a Royal warrant as early as 1699, and in 1763 moved again to Leith Walk in the grounds of what was the old Trinity Hospital.

Constantly outgrowing its various locations, it finally moved to a new site on the east side of Inverleith House between 1823 and 1824. The move from Leith Walk was carried out by William McNab, supervised by the Professor of Botany Robert Graham, and involved the transplanting of some large specimen trees. In 1877 the government and the City bought Inverleith House and its policies from the Fettes Trust and added them to the Botanic Garden. The extension was opened in 1881.

The present day layout results from a reorganisation of the plant collection made in 1889 by the then Regius Keeper Sir Isaac Bayley Balfour, although successive improvements followed. A wealth of plant material brought back by collectors, such as Forrest Ludlow and Sheriff from Asian expeditions, helped to establish the Botanic Garden as a major centre for taxonomic research.

Grounds at Tanfield, alongside the Water of Leith, were developed for industry in the early 19th century. Works were erected in the 1820s for two companies manufacturing gas from whale oil. The Oil Gas Company premises was later converted to Tanfield Hall which hosted the historic first General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland in 1843. The former printing works on the site was later incorporated in the development of the Standard Life Offices.

9 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Fettes College was established in 1870 through a legacy of £166,000 gifted by Sir William Fettes, merchant and underwriter, to provide a school for needy children. The Scottish Baronial-French Gothic masterpiece was designed by David Bryce, the principal Victorian country house architect of Scotland, with sculptures by John Rhind. The grounds were laid out by Archibald Campbell-Swinton and were enclosed with iron fences by David Bryce in 1874.

Open fields at the north end of Inverleith Row and along Ferry Road were used as nursery gardens during the 19th century. These were later converted to playing fields, in the Fettes College 1800s ownership of many of Edinburgh’s prominent schools.

South Inverleith Mains Farm to the west of the Botanic Garden was bought by the City from the Rocheid family in 1889. It was rapidly developed into Inverleith Park with the construction of paths, roadways and drainage, greenhouses, a pavilion, boating pond, gymnasia, bowling greens, tennis courts, and golf courses.

The Grange Club and Edinburgh Academy cricket grounds in Raeburn Place hosted the first ever rugby match between Scotland and England in 1871. Stewart Melville’s ground on Ferry Road was Scotland’s home ground for rugby from 1899 to 1925 when the Scottish Rugby Union moved to Murrayfield.

10 Special Characteristics Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Structure • Landscaped spaces dominate the area, contrasting with surrounding, denser development.

• The substantial amount of open space allows panoramic views across to the city skyline.

• The conservation area is characterised by playing fields, a public park and the Royal Botanic Garden.

• The urban form comprises a finger-like development pattern, with some denser development to the east and around the margins.

• The predominant character is one of large Victorian houses in large plots, with Georgian villas and terraces to the east of the area.

• The street layout follows a loose grid pattern with wide streets.

Topography The conservation area lies on a south facing slope rising to a ridge formed by Ferry Road which forms the northern boundary.

Setting Different periods of the city’s development frame the conservation area: the New Town to the south, Leith Walk to the east and 20th century suburban development to the west and north. In long-range views towards the conservation area its green character stands out against the more uniformly built-up surroundings.

11 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Views The conservation area is characterised by panoramic views from various locations southward to the skyline features of Edinburgh. These views are made possible by the gentle slope down from Ferry Road, long straight streets, generally low-rise built form and significant areas of open space. Views from high points in Inverleith Park and the Royal Botanic Garden are filtered through the framework of their perimeter trees and avenues. In addition, the sports grounds at Eildon Street allow views across to Arthur’s Seat.

Framed localised views are also important to the conservation area. The main examples are views of the towers of Fettes College northward along Fettes Avenue and west along Inverleith Place; and south along East Fettes Avenue to the rising tenemental structures of Comely Bank.

Landscape character The quality and variety of spaces for recreational, sporting and memorial use, with their cumulative scenic qualities and views across the city, are the area’s most significant features. The open space provides an attractive green setting to the built environment and a high quality townscape. The scale of many open spaces is generous enough to accommodate trees of large proportions to form a landscape structure of a scale appropriate to the buildings.

Development pattern The built fabric of the area forms a finger-like development pattern, framing and overlapping the areas of open space. The pattern reflects historic ribbon development outwards from the city centre and peripheral cores of Stockbridge and Canonmills. The concentration of institutional and open/recreational ownership and use preserved the character of the open spaces and forced development around their edges. Later infill residential areas of a more suburban character appear along the eastern edge of the conservation area and to the north of Fettes College.

12 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Grain and density Density in the conservation area is generally very low with linear strips of single dwellings, either terraced or detached villas in generous garden plots, framing large blocks of open space. Although building styles vary, the plot density and pattern of single dwellings remains relatively consistent through the different construction phases across the area.

The area to the east of Inverleith Row is more densely developed with terraces and maisonettes. Similarly, later development around the perimeters of playing fields at the north-western side of the conservation area tends to be higher in density, in flatted blocks.

Streets The street layout follows a loose grid pattern surrounding large blocks of open space. Some of the streets are very wide and developed on a single side. Others are enclosed, not by buildings, but by the visually-permeable edges of playing fields or public open space, often lined with trees, stone boundary walls and railings. These features, combined with the open space and private garden ground, emphasise the spaciousness of the area.

The area is generally very permeable and legible due to the grid pattern of wide streets combined with open spaces allowing visual connections and easily identifiable routes. The Water of Leith Walkway and cycleway routes on the disused railway network provide access to areas further afield.

Spaces The open spaces in the conservation area vary greatly in their character, function and ownership, and cumulatively dominate the character of the conservation area. As a result it contains the most open space of any conservation area in the city.

The area is layered with sports fields and grounds associated with private schools and clubs. Those along the northern boundary of the conservation area consist of flat expanses of grass with few trees, and provide panoramic views from Ferry Road south across to the Edinburgh skyline.

13 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Other sports grounds such as Grange Cricket Club are not easily visible behind their high stone boundary walls, but provide an important break in the surrounding building line and an open, green backdrop to the streetscape. Different open spaces are visually linked by lines of trees, enclosed views and gaps in the built form surrounding them to create an overall dominant, open landscape character. The Fettes College grounds provide a picturesque, wooded setting to the listed school building and substantial grass playing fields to the north.

The most significant of the accessible open spaces are Inverleith Park and the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden, each with a markedly different character.

Inverleith Park consists of neatly maintained, mostly flat open grass parkland with a strong framework of mature trees on its perimeter and along its striking avenues. The space is well defined by hedging, perimeter iron railings and grand gated entrances.

The Royal Botanic Garden is contained by walls or railings on all four boundaries and includes part of the former policies of Inverleith House. The east side of the Garden is level, but rises steeply to the hill on which Inverleith House stands, from where there is a panoramic view of the Edinburgh skyline. The site includes extensive outdoor planting of mainly non-native species (although one section is devoted to native flora), glasshouses containing exotic species, an exhibition hall, cafés, shop and visitor facilities. Its primary role is in botanical and horticultural research, but the garden is also a major public amenity and has an important role in education.

The garden is divided into a number of character areas, including the Heath Garden, Rock Garden, Peat Garden, Woodland, Arboretum, Herbaceous Border and Demonstration Gardens. These various areas have plant collections from wide ranging origins and climatic regions, including many specimens of rare plants and world famous plant collections such as the Dawson Chinese garden. Three substantial ponds of different character with streams and waterfalls leading to each, combined with wetland areas provide habitats for aquatic and marsh plants. Overall the Gardens have an estimated living plant collection of some 14,000 plant groups. The Botanic Garden’s listing on the Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes confirms its national historical, horticultural and architectural importance and outstanding significance. The Garden is open daily and has approaching 800,000 visitors a year.

14 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The predominant built character consists Key elements of large Victorian houses in substantial gardens. Georgian villas and terraces occur • Georgian and Victorian dwellings of restricted height, generous scale and fine on the eastern side of the conservation proportions. area. Residential properties are mostly • The variety of architectural forms and styles contribute to the overall character. of two to three storeys, sometimes with attics or basements. The tenements of • Unusual building types such as historic estate houses, educational buildings, Inverleith Row and Goldenacre, and later churches and landscape features add to the area’s interest. flatted blocks in the west of the area, generally have four storeys. Wide roads • Fettes College dominates the skyline. and pavements, and the open landscapes • A common palette of traditional, natural materials gives the area a sense of spread through the area, give a sense of uniformity. openness and generosity of scale.

• Spacious streets, with some surviving traditional detailing and boundaries.

• The predominance of recreational open spaces and parkland uses.

• The contrast between activity in Inverleith Row and the general tranquility in other areas.

• The concentration of educational establishments.

Scale

15 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building types and styles The architectural character is dominated by rows of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian villas and terraces. The villa streets are complemented by the profusion of mature trees, extensive garden settings, stone boundary walls and spacious roads. The villas are in a considerable variety of architectural styles, unified by the use of local building materials - sandstone and slate. Many of the large Victorian houses in Inverleith Place have been converted into flats.

This prevailing villa pattern breaks down at the north end of Arboretum Road and the north side of Kinnear Road, with a variety of twentieth century, low-density development in the form of bungalows.

From the south side of Kinnear Road and westwards, flatted blocks dating from the early twentieth century onwards become more common. Often of three to four storeys, these denser blocks make use of their height to allow views over the open spaces to the south. The playing fields in this area, therefore, tend to be characterised by taller, denser boundary development than those of the eastern side of the conservation area.

Two of the original estate houses of the area, Inverleith House and East Warriston House, survive in new uses and both remain the focus of their respective grounds. Inverleith House, now offices, gallery and café, dominates the central mound in the Royal Botanic Garden. The House is a severe mansion of three storeys and basement with a broad elliptical bow staircase and pedimented entrance porch. East Warriston House of 1818 was converted into Warriston Crematorium in 1928-29 by Lorimer & Matthew. The south side was completely remodelled with tall arched windows and a south east cloister. The north west cloister is part of Esme Gordon’s modern extensions of 1967.

South Inverleith Mains farm also survives, converted to offices within the maintenance yard of Inverleith Park. The park also contains interesting built features including a memorial fountain (1900) in the form of a granite obelisk and formal north and east gates of 1891 by Sydney Mitchell.

The Royal Botanic Garden houses a unique and self-contained collection of buildings, notably the range of palm houses and glass houses dating between 1834 and the 1970s; the Laboratories (1909), an octagonal classroom and museum building (1848-51), the former Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society Hall (1842), the Herbarium and Library (1960-64) and the more recent additions of the John Hope Gateway and Alpine House (2009 and 2013).

16 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Baronial presence of Fettes College is outstanding within the conservation area in terms of its size and architectural distinction. Built in a mix of Scottish Baronial and French Gothic styles, with distinctive soaring spires and turrets, it consists of a three storey block with tall central tower and smaller flanking towers. The architectural composition forms a stunningly romantic symmetrical feature which dominates this part of the north west city skyline, with its massive central tower centred on Fettes Avenue.

Ancillary buildings to the school uses in the area are another distinctive feature of the conservation area. These include gates, lodges, boarding houses and sports pavilions. Fettes College in particular contains a very distinguished collection of associated buildings in a variety of dates and styles, ranging from the David Bryce gates, railings and boarding houses of the 1870s, in an anglicis ed baronial style with canted bays and barge boarded gables, to the 1967 William Kininmonth dining hall.

The following churches add to the architectural character of the area:

• St James Episcopal, Inverleith Row (1888) in a Gothic style in red Corsehill stone by R. Rowand Anderson.

• St Serf’s, at the corner of Ferry Road and Clark Road (1901) in a Decorated Gothic style with polygonal apse to the east.

• St Stephen Comely Bank (1901), red sandstone with Neo-Perpendicular detail by J.N. Scott and A. Lorne Campbell.

• Former First Church of Christ, Scientist, Inverleith Terrace (1910-11) in a tall and compact Scots Romanesque style by Ramsay R. Traquair, based on Old St Giles at Elgin. Now offices.

• True Jesus Church, East Fettes Ave (1907-8), Neo-Romanesque former St Luke’s Parish Church by P. Macgregor Chalmers.

17 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks The spires of Fettes College add a distinctive feature to the city skyline, and provide the most prominent landmark feature in the conservation area.

Vertical features on a smaller scale, including the numerous churches and the Palm House of the Royal Botanic Gardens, act as important local markers.

Materials and details A common palette of traditional, natural materials gives the area a sense of uniformity. However, the variety of treatments, dressings and decoration allows variety and a sense of changing tastes and technologies over time.

The earliest terraces and houses of the Georgian period, at Inverleith House and the developments in the south-east corner of the conservation area, tend to be fairly severe in treatment. Surfaces are in rubble or polished ashlar with simple, rectilinear dressings to openings and a strong vertical and horizontal rhythm of window openings, parapets and chimney stacks. The larger villas along the west side of Inverleith Row also have a strict symmetrical character but often with more showy architectural detail such as double- height pilasters, classical doorpieces, Venetian windows or ornate pediments with ball or obelisk decorations.

Most six-over-six pane sash and case glazing survives, along with historic doors and fanlights. Very few dormers have been introduced to break the regular rooflines. Front boundaries are generally formed by tall cast iron railings around areas in the terraces, or dwarf walls with low railings (often replaced in simplified form since the Second World War) to front gardens in the villas.

The later Victorian tenement blocks in Inverleith Row and Goldenacre retain the simple material treatment of the earlier development but with added features of applied Classical decoration or canted bay windows and plate glass glazing. A good collection of historic shopfronts survives in this area.

West of Inverleith Row, the typical villa development of the conservation area consists of single or paired houses of a very generous scale in sandstone rubble or ashlar with slated roofs. Two common types prevail: simpler, more classically-inspired styles and more ornate, picturesque styles. The classical types often have shallow roofs, pedimented

18 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal doorpieces, asymmetrical bay windows and cast-iron brattishing to rooflines. The latter type are reminiscent of Arts and Crafts architecture with steeply pitched roofs, complex roof forms with gables, bay or oriel windows, exposed rafter ends and half-timbered detail. Red sandstone is common for main walling and detailing, as well as the blond Craigleith type stone, more typical of Edinburgh. Red or yellow clay cans and six-over-one pane glazing are common in both types.

The earlier examples of flatted blocks in Kinnear Road maintain the materials and detailing of the nearby earlier villa development. Later examples around the northern end of East Fettes Avenue vary more widely, often incorporating traditional features but applied over larger-scale blocks. More recent, late twentieth and early twenty-first century examples tend to be more contemporary in character, using some traditional materials such as sandstone in cladding but modern in detail and form.

Trees and gardens The significant open spaces contrast between the heavily wooded or parkland character of Inverleith Park, the Royal Botanic Garden, and Fettes College, and the remaining open space in use as playing fields which are largely treeless apart from perimeter planting.

Trees in private gardens also make a significant contribution to the landscape character of the area, with particularly fine, mature examples in Inverleith Place and Inverleith Terrace. Many streets have the character of tree-lined avenues although strictly these trees are mostly located within property adjoining the footway, rather than being street trees, within the public realm.

Streetscape Broad, generous streets are typical of the area, sometimes with surprisingly narrow footways. This is a reminder of their historic role as broad carriage drives but can lead to a feeling of car and parking dominance where road markings and junction details are not sensitively handled. Surfacing materials are mostly modern but there are some surviving whin kerbs, setts at junctions and channels, and horronisation. Royston Terrace, Inverleith Place Lane and Inverleith Terrace Lane retain the majority of their setted surfaces. Most of Inverleith Row is paved in grey concrete slabs in a large, rectangular format and staggered bond, emulating traditional flags. The majority of street furniture is of modern, generic design but a few historic postal pillar boxes remain in place.

19 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Footways are generally bounded by stone dwarf walls and gate piers with railings and/ or hedges. Boundaries are generally low or visually permeable, enhancing the sense of spaciousness of the streets. Some excellent historic ironwork survives, particularly around Fettes College and the Georgian terraces of Inverleith Row/Warriston Crescent. The northern edge along Ferry Road has a slightly bleaker character, dominated by heavier traffic. The road is bounded by taller boundary walls than those common elsewhere, topped with high ball-stop fencing to playing fields.

Activity Recreational open space and parkland uses predominate with a fringe of good quality residential uses. The conservation area contains some of the most attractive areas of open space in the city. The Royal Botanic Garden is an important recreational area and Scotland’s national botanic garden, providing a centre for research, education, and the conservation of plant life from across the world. Inverleith Park accommodates a variety of uses and activities including sports pitches and club pavilions, bowling greens, allotment gardens, a play area, a boating pond containing a wetland area, Council offices and depot. The playing fields in the conservation area cater for various sporting activities. The Water of Leith valley and the disused railway network are used extensively as an area for play, walking, jogging and dog exercising.

Fettes College is one of the premier public schools in Scotland with a reputation for academic and sporting excellence.

The general environment of most of the area is of high amenity and serenity. However, this is in contrast to Inverleith Row, the main through route, which is a place of activity in terms of social and commercial uses, and which carries northbound traffic from the city centre to the busy artery of Ferry Road. The southern end of Inverleith Row houses a cluster of speciality shops, while Goldenacre, an area of tenements with shops at the ground floor, is the main retail centre of the conservation area.

20 Management Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Legislation, policies and guidance

Conservation areas The Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997 states that conservation areas “are areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. Local authorities have a statutory duty to identify and designate such areas.

Special attention must be paid to the character and appearance of the conservation area when planning controls are being exercised. Conservation area status brings a number of special controls:

• The demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.

• Permitted development rights, which allow improvements or alterations to the external appearance of dwellinghouses and flatted dwellings, are removed.

• Works to trees are controlled (see Trees for more detail).

The demolition of unlisted buildings considered to make a positive contribution to the area is only permitted in exceptional circumstances, and where the proposals meet certain criteria relating to condition, conservation deficit, adequacy of efforts to retain the building and the relative public benefit of replacement proposals. Conservation area character appraisals are a material consideration when considering applications for development within conservation areas.

Listed buildings A significant proportion of buildings within Inverleith Conservation Area are listed for their special architectural or historic interest and are protected under the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997. Listed building consent is required for the demolition of a listed building, or its alteration or extension in any manner which would affect its special character.

21 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal National policy The Scottish Historic Environment Policy (SHEP) is the strategic statement of national policy relating to the historic environment.

SECOND PROPOSED PLANJUNE 2014

The development plan The Edinburgh City Local Plan sets out policies and proposals for the development and use of land in the City. The policies in the Plan are used to determine applications for development.

In broad summary, the key policy areas affecting the Inverleith Conservation Area are:

Design of new development DES 1, 3, 5, 11, 12

Listed buildings ENV 2-4

Conservation areas ENV 5-6

Historic gardens and designed landscapes ENV 7

Archaeology ENV 8-9

Trees ENV 12

Natural heritage and nature conservation ENV 10-16

The proposed City of Edinburgh Local Development Plan (LDP) contains broadly similar policies and is a material consideration in current planning decisions.

22 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Planning guidance More detailed, subject-specific guidance is set out in Planning Guidance documents. Guidance for Householders Those particularly relevant to Inverleith Conservation Area are:

• Guidance for Householders

• Guidance for Businesses

• Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas

December 2012 • Developer contributions and affordable housing

• Edinburgh Design guidance

• Communications Infrastructure Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas • Street Design Guidance – in draft, published May 2014

In addition, a number of statutory tools are available to assist development management within the conservation area.

GPDO and Article 4 Directions February 2014 The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, amended 2012, (abbreviated to GPDO), restricts the types of development which can be carried out in a conservation area without the need for planning permission. These include most alterations to the external appearance of dwellinghouses and flats. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals.

Under Article 4 of the GPDO the planning authority can seek the approval of the Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict development rights further. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor developments in conservation areas which can cumulatively lead to the erosion of character and appearance. Inverleith Conservation Area has Article 4 Directions covering the following classes of development:

23 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal 7 The erection, construction, maintenance, improvement or alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other means of enclosure. 38 Development by statutory undertakers for the purpose of water undertakings. 39 Development by a public gas supplier. 40 Development by an electricity statutory undertaker. 41 Development required for any tramway or road transport undertaking.

Trees Trees within conservation areas are covered by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997 as amended by the Planning (etc) Act 2006. This Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level. The planning authority must be given six weeks’ notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice will render the person liable to the same Trees in penalties as for contravention of a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). the City Tree Preservation Orders are made under planning legislation to protect individual and Trees and Woodlands groups of trees considered important for amenity or because of their cultural or historic Action Plan – January 2014 interest. When assessing amenity, the importance of trees as wildlife habitats will be taken into consideration. There is a strong presumption against any form of development or change of use of land which is likely to damage or prejudice the future long term existence of trees covered by a TPO. The removal of trees for arboricultural reasons will not imply that the space created by their removal can be used for development. Tree Preservation Orders apply in Eildon Terrace.

Trees in the city contains a set of policies with an action plan used to guide the management of the Council’s trees and woodlands.

Landscape and Biodiversity The Council has an obligation to take account of the impact of development on species protected by legislation and international commitments. The Nature Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 places a duty on all public bodies to further the conservation of biodiversity as far as is consistent with their functions. The conservation area’s rich parkland landscape and open spaces give it a high amenity and biodiversity value. The area is protected by a range of local and national landscape and natural heritage designations.

24 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Royal Botanic Garden is included in the National Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes for its national significance as the second oldest botanic garden in the UK, hosting a vast plant collection and interesting architectural features. Landscapes of regional or local importance in the area are Fettes College and Tanfield. Inverleith Park and the Royal Botanic Garden comprise the Inverleith Special Landscape Area (SLA).

The roof garden of the former Standard Life building at Tanfield is a good example of how green roof technology can mitigate the effects of development in a sensitive area in terms of biodiversity, visual and Sustainable Urban Drainage System issues.

Local nature conservation: The Water of Leith corridor, the former railway line and the Royal Botanic Garden are local nature conservation sites forming part of a wider wildlife corridor network. These are recognised for their nature conservation, amenity and recreational value. They link many other important sites allowing otherwise isolated populations to survive natural and other fluctuations and are of city wide as well as local importance.

A river habitat survey of the Water of Leith was undertaken in 2002 as baseline data for the preparation of the Water of Leith Flood Prevention Scheme. This survey provides details of the botanical and species interest of adjacent habitats. The survey shows that as well as woodland cover there are small pockets of botanical interest along the stretches of the river within the conservation area. There are signs of mammals and these are favourable stretches of the river for foraging bats, with potential roosts in trees and stone buildings and bridges. A significant problem along the river in this area is the invasive species Japanese Knotweed. Measures are in place for its eradication although a long term programme is required to keep it under control.

The disused railway network is used extensively as a cycling and walking resource. Mature woodland is found along some sections and scrub dominated by goat willow and birch has grown up in others. These habitats provide important cover and nest sites for many species of birds while providing safe feeding areas for winter visitors. Mammals such as badgers, foxes and hedgehogs use the network extensively for both travelling between larger sites and for breeding. Development is the most serious threat to these sites with dumping of garden refuse and other household waste being a problem in some sections.

25 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Within the Royal Botanic Garden the most important natural assets are the vegetation and seed heads providing food and shelter for its bird population. Hawfinches visit regularly during winter as do Redwings and Fieldfare. Plentiful nectar plants attract many Edinburgh Local species of butterfly and other insects. Water features throughout the garden are used by Biodiversity Action Plan breeding wildfowl such as Mallard, Moorhen and Coot with occasional visits from others, 2010-2015 most notably swans. There is also a large breeding population of frogs.

Further information on landscape and biodiversity:

Biodiversity in Edinburgh Edinburgh Landscape and Scenery Local Nature Sites and Protected Species

Archaeology Inverleith largely consisted of estates in agricultural use prior to significant development starting in the early 19th century. Its south-eastern edges, adjacent to the New Town, contained a cluster of industrial uses relating to the Water of Leith and its associated mill lade. The area may therefore contain the remains of a range of post medieval sites and uses including lades, weirs, mills, factories and gas works; brewing and distilling; farming structures and activities such as steadings, horse mills; nurseries, ponds and quarry sites. Y OUR COUNCIL – Y OUR ENVIRONMENT Railway infrastructure remains at the eastern edge of the conservation area where the Edinburgh, Perth and Dundee Railway passed through Warriston.

Remains of these structures may survive below existing development, although the extent of their survival is currently unknown. Depending on the scale and impact of any development proposal, the City of Edinburgh Council Archaeology Service (CECAS) may recommend a pre-determination evaluation in order to assess the presence and significance of any surviving archaeological deposits and to determine the scopeof any required mitigation including preservation. Similarly for works affecting standing structures of historic significance, a programme of archaeological building assessment and recording may be recommended.

There are no scheduled monuments located within Inverleith Conservation Area.

26 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Pressures and sensitivities The following pressures are associated with development proposals which conservation area designation, together with the Council’s policies and guidance, are designed to manage. The Edinburgh Design Guidance, Guidance for Householders and Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas explain the Council’s approach to design in historic contexts.

Townscape The area is characterised by a high proportion of open spaces which provides the green setting to the surrounding built environment. The most important of these are the Royal Botanic Garden and Inverleith Park but a significant contribution is also provided by school playing fields. In recent years, a number of grass playing fields have been converted to artificial playing fields with associated installation of floodlighting and changes to boundary treatments. There may be pressure for more of these types of developments.

Another pressure on the setting of open spaces is the erection of contemporary flat roof flatted developments on or adjacent to existing playing fields, such as on Bangholm Terrace, Kinnear Road and Fettes Avenue. These types of developments contrast with the traditional appearance of the area and there may be continuing pressure for such development proposals, justified on the basis that they represent a significant improvement from the existing site. This justification could have a negative cumulative effect on the character and setting when viewing development proposals after completion.

Recommendations:

Due to the large number of artificial playing surfaces in the conservation area, there will be a presumption against any further proposals for such development.

Where developments are intended on school campuses, playing fields or other substantial green spaces, such development will require to be placed in the context of an overall masterplan for future change of the site. Schools and other major landowners are encouraged to have a long term strategy in place to constructively manage land release or playing fields conversion as oppose to ad hoc management. See also: Opportunities for Development.

27 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Respect for design should be demonstrated in the way that new buildings are to be inserted within existing townscape framework; respecting the scale, form and producing architecture of highest quality. Development proposals should consider the overall effect created by successive developments to ensure that the character and setting of parks and green spaces, and key views, are not eroded.

Proposals for artificial lighting will be assessed in terms of local development plan policy and Scottish Government guidance, Controlling Light Pollution and Reducing Lighting Energy Consumption (2007). Bad neighbour development involving artificial lighting which will affect residential property will be advertised in terms of Schedule 2 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992.

Architectural Character The area is characterised by the rows of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian villas and terraces in a variety of styles, with the use of local building materials as a unifying quality. Contemporary developments through new-build and extensions have mainly utilised non- traditional materials that could threaten the character of the area if used indiscriminately or excessively. Multiple such developments in close proximity can have a negative cumulative effect on character.

Recommendations:

The design of interventions should be based on a sound understanding of context. Policy DES1 of the Edinburgh City Local Plan and Proposed Local Development Plan requires that design should be based on an overall design concept that draws upon positive characteristics of the surrounding area to create or reinforce a sense of place.

The Council’s planning guidance generally states a presumption for sandstone and other traditional, natural materials where these form the predominant palette in the surroundings of the development. High quality, innovative modern designs and materials are not precluded, but proposals must be able to demonstrate their respect for the historic character of the host building and the area. The cumulative effect of multiple developments within the same street or area should be taken into account.

28 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Natural Heritage The area contains some of the most attractive areas of open space in the city, with each having a markedly different character. There is a need to ensure that the landscape, natural and wildlife heritage of the conservation area are protected, acknowledged and understood as integral elements of the conservation area’s value.

Recommendation:

Developments should take account of The Edinburgh Biodiversity Action Plan objectives for urban green space and ensure that the identity and quality of the landscape, and its natural and wildlife elements, are not eroded or damaged.

Opportunities for development Small-scale development opportunities for infill or replacement may arise within the area, and will be considered in terms of the relevant guidance.

No sites within the conservation area are identified for significant housing or other development through local development plans. Development on a significant scale is unlikely to take place within the conservation area. However it is recognised that ad- hoc development has changed the character of parts of the conservation area over time, particularly at the peripheries of private open spaces and playing fields, and further pressure for this type of development may arise in future.

29 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Opportunities for planning action

Conservation area boundaries The following amendments have been made to produce a tighter boundary to the Conservation Area:

• Werberside – Removal of the western half of the recent residential development to the north of Fettes College which has no clear connection with the Conservation Area.

• The removal of the interwar and post-war developments to the East of Inverleith Row (Warriston Gardens/Warriston Drive, Eildon Terrace) which have a different architectural character from the core areas of the Conservation Area and have little visual or physical interaction with the core area.

• The removal of Warriston Cemetery and Crematorium - the cemetery is an important historic graveyard, but is geographically separated from the Conservation Area. The cemetery is also Category ‘A’ listed which ensures it’s ongoing protection.

• Removal of the strip of development to the north of Ferry Road. The character of the two sides of Ferry Road are different and this area relates more to the developments to the north, in Trinity, than to the character of Inverleith. The better examples of villa development here are already protected by listing. Areas removed from Conservation Area

30 Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Opportunities for enhancement

Roads and transport Road safety, traffic management and parking are identified as priority issues in the Inverleith Neighbourhood Plan along with enhanced walking and cycling opportunities. The unique characteristics of the streetscape of the area should be protected and enhanced in any roads and transport proposals. Interventions should be planned and designed taking account of their broader context in order to reinforce the sense of place. This will also involve minimising visual clutter, avoiding generic, ‘off-the-peg’ solutions, and protecting traditional surfacing materials and design details.

Natural environment Similarly, enhancing the walking and cycling environment provides an opportunity to promote the unique and valuable open space and landscape characteristics of the area. The aims of the Edinburgh Biodiversity Action Plan should be considered in any enhancement proposal throughout the area.

31 Sources Inverleith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Print Harris, Stuart, The Place Names of Edinburgh, Steve Savage, 2002

Gifford, J., McWilliam, C. and Walker, D., The Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh, Penguin, 1984

Web

Canmore (RCAHMS) online database

City of Edinburgh Council, Inverleith Park Management Plan 2010-14

Edinburgh Biodiversity Action Plan

Edinburgh Skyline Study

Inverleith Neighbourhood Partnership, Inverleith Community Plan 2011-2014

Inverleith Society

Peter McGowan Associates, Edinburgh Survey of Gardens and Designed Landscapes, 2007-2009

PAN 71, Conservation Area Management

Scottish Government, Controlling Light Pollution and Reducing Lighting Energy Consumption, 2007

32 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Contents

Historical Maps 2

Aerial Map 4

Structure Map & Special Characteristics 5

Summary information 6

Conservation Area Character Appraisals 7

Historical origins and development 8

Character Zones - Structure 11

Management - legislation, policies and guidance 22

Management Opportunities 27

1 Portobello Conservation Area Historical Maps Character Appraisal

Great Reform Act 1832

John Wood 1824

2 Portobello Conservation Area Historical Maps Character Appraisal

Old & New Edinburgh 1890

Post Office Directory 1917

3 Portobello Conservation Area Aerial Map Character Appraisal

4 Portobello Conservation Area Structure Map & Special Characteristics Character Appraisal

Key Conservation Area Boundary

Open/Green Space

Views

Vistas

G Glimpse

T Terminated View G Grid Plan

Landmarks (click icon for image) T G Main Focal Point G (click icon for image)

G G

5 Portobello Summary information Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Location and boundaries Dates of designation/amendments

Portobello lies on the coast, some four miles east of the centre of Edinburgh, between The original Portobello Conservation Area Leith and Musselburgh. was designated on 13th October 1977. The original boundary was amended in July The Conservation Area is enclosed to the north-east by the sea and to the south-west by 1985 and again in February 1998. The first Sir Harry Lauder Road, which creates a visual and physical boundary for the Conservation Portobello Conservation Area Character Area as far as Windsor Place. At this point, the boundary turns north down Windsor Place Appraisal was competed in May 2000. and excludes the housing on the former Mount Lodge Estate. The north western and south eastern boundaries are less well defined: the north western boundary being generally defined by Beach Lane on the north side of the High Street and to the rear of Adelphi Place Statement of significance properties on the south side of the High Street, and the south-east boundary extending to Portobello retains the character of a the end of Joppa Road taking in Dalkeith Street and Morton Street. small town with a distinct town centre, an exceptionally high quality residential The boundaries of the Conservation Area were examined through the appraisal process. At hinterland, a shoreline setting and a long the north western edge of the Conservation Area is an important element of Promenade, sea-front promenade. The architectural beach and foreshore that signifies the approach and entrance to the Conservation form and character of Portobello is rich Area and includes the two surviving historic kilns. This area has been included in the and varied, with many fine Georgian and Conservation Area. Victorian historic buildings. The building The Conservation Area falls within the Ward boundary of Portobello/Craigmillar. There are materials are traditional: stone, harling, in the order of 4,500 people living within the Conservation Area and approximately 1,700 slate, pantiles, timber windows and doors. residential units.

6 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisals Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Purpose of character appraisals - why do we need them? How to use this document

Conservation area character appraisals are intended to help manage change. They provide The analysis of Portobello’s character and appearance focuses on the features which an agreed basis of understanding of what makes an area special. This understanding make the area special and distinctive. This is divided into two sections: Structure, which informs and provides the context in which decisions can be made on proposals which may describes and draws conclusions regarding the overall organisation and macro-scale affect that character. An enhanced level of understanding, combined with appropriate features of the area; and Key Elements, which examines the smaller-scale features and management tools, ensures that change and development sustains and respects the details which fit within the structure. qualities and special characteristics of the area. This document is not intended to give prescriptive instructions on what designs or “When effectively managed, conservation areas can anchor thriving communities, sustain styles will be acceptable in the area. Instead, it can be used to ensure that the design of cultural heritage, generate wealth and prosperity and add to quality of life. To realise an alteration or addition is based on an informed interpretation of context. This context this potential many of them need to continue to adapt and develop in response to should be considered in conjunction with the relevant Local Development Plan policies the modern-day needs and aspirations of living and working communities. This means and planning guidance. The Management section outlines the policy and legislation accommodating physical, social and economic change for the better. relevant to decision-making in the area. Issues specific to Portobello are discussed in more detail and recommendations or opportunities identified. Physical change in conservation areas does not necessarily need to replicate its surroundings. The challenge is to ensure that all new development respects, enhances and has a positive impact on the area. Physical and land use change in conservation areas should always be founded on a detailed understanding of the historic and urban design context.” From PAN 71, Conservation Area Management. http://www.gov.scot/Publications/2004/12/20450/49052

7 Portobello Historical origins and development Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Origins and Development

Portobello takes its name from the Spanish port of Puerto Bello on the Isthmus of Panama. In a notable offensive of 1739, the port was captured by a British fleet under Admiral Vernon. In the 1740s, George Hamilton, one of the sailors involved in the battle, built a house four miles east of Edinburgh which he named his “Portobello Hut” after the battle of Puerto Bello.

In 1765, rich clay deposits were discovered just to the west of the Figgate Burn and this led to the establishment of brick, glass and pottery works, a soapworks, a white lead works, and associated workers’ housing. The earliest reference to Portobello appears in ‘The History of Edinburgh’ by Hugo Arnot, published in 1779. Arnot refers to Mr William Jamieson’s brickworks in the area. William Jamieson was a local entrepreneur who built several large villas in the area at this time. Of the large houses built during this period, only one, now with much altered, survives.

In 1787, local industry was further stimulated by the founding of a small harbour at the mouth of the Figgate Burn and, by 1811, Thomas Bonar’s ‘Plan of Edinburgh and Leith with the Roads Adjacent’ shows some 90 buildings under the heading ‘Village of Portobello’.

Portobello developed significantly in the 18th century, not only because of its industry but due to its popularity as a bathing and spa resort. Discovery of mineral wells added to the village’s attraction and in the early years of the 19th century, elegant residential terraces were developed, mainly between the High Street and the sea. Bath Street and Tower Street (Figgate Street) were laid out in 1801-1802, and Regent Street and Wellington Street (Marlborough Street) in 1815-1816.

The next phase included the building of Melville Street (Bellfield Street), Pitt Street (Pittville Street) and John Street, designed by the architect Robert Brown who lived in Pitt Street. The Brighton/Rosefield area was developed and built by a local builder, John Baxter. This area is one of the most attractive in Portobello, the uniform facades with their linking screen walls giving these streets considerable distinction.

8 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Portobello was established both as a fashionable summer resort and as an attractive place to stay all year round. The population census of 1831 gives a population of 2,781 residents within 517 houses, which was swelled by an additional summer population of not less than 2,000.

Building continued eastwards towards Joppa from the 1830s onwards and also south of the High Street until the end of the century, with rows of Georgian terraces gradually giving way to Victorian semi-detached and detached houses.

As the 19th century progressed, the Georgian two storey buildings on the north side of the High Street became punctuated by larger Victorian tenements. The scale and symmetry of the streets between the High Street and the Promenade were also compromised to a degree. Some villas were demolished and their grounds redeveloped.

Many Georgian streets, such as Bath Street and Marlborough Street, now contain large Victorian tenements, some of them spectacular - Windsor Mansions (1899) in Straiton Place and St. James’s Terrace (1870) in Bath Street are two examples. Several of these tenements were built in red sandstone, contrasting with the grey stone of the original Georgian buildings.

The Regency Spa Town became both a Victorian suburb of Edinburgh - the Burgh

Reform Act of 1896 had seen Portobello incorporated into the City of Edinburgh - and a Victorian sea-side resort, popular with day trippers from Edinburgh and Glasgow. The establishment of rail and tram links increased the popularity of Portobello as a holiday destination.

Prior to the construction of the Promenade, gardens and garden walls extended down to the beach and the seafront was not easily accessible to the public. The first section of the Promenade was completed in the 1850s, from Bath Street to Melville Street. It was extended in the 1860s but was swept away twice by storms and was eventually completed in 1891. A 1,200 foot pier was opened in 1871 (demolished 1917) which included a restaurant, shops and kiosks.

9 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal

A number of fine individual buildings were built at the start of the 20th century - notably the baths in Bellfield Street (1901); the Town Hall (1911) and St. John’s Roman Catholic Church in Brighton Place (1906), the spire of which dominates the town’s skyline.

Between the wars, when Portobello was in its heyday, a number of buildings were constructed in the modern style. The former cinema in Bath Street remains, but the Open Air Swimming Pool (1936) was demolished in the 1980s.

The whole area between Figgate Street and Bridge Street, north of the High Street, was redeveloped between 1976 and 1980. The Marlborough Mansions (1899), near the foot of Bath Street, were demolished in the 1960s as part of proposals to widen the Promenade. By the 1960s, the number of tourists visiting Portobello reduced significantly and many of the shops and kiosks, which were once a feature on the Promenade, closed.

Portobello retains a heritage of fine buildings from all stages of its history, most notably the elegant Georgian terraces and the complementary fringe of Victorian and Edwardian buildings. The layering of high quality development from different eras makes a major contribution to the character of the Conservation Area. The town retains a recognisable seaside character with its long promenade, reclaimed and improved beach, and amusement arcade. It has a thriving resident population of around 4,500 and remains popular with visitors - on fine summer days the beach and promenade are crowded with day-trippers.

10 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Conservation Area includes three areas of distinctly different character:

The High Street provides the commercial and administrative focus for the Conservation Area retaining many original two storey Georgian buildings as well as a number of significant public buildings.

The vehicle free Promenade, beach, cafes and amusement arcades highlight Portobello’s character as a seaside resort.

The remainder of the Conservation Area constitutes Portobello’s main residential zone and includes an abundance of fine Georgian villas as well as a robust stock of Victorian villas and tenements which contribute to the suburban character.

Structure Development Pattern The High Street

click image for further details The High street is an identified shopping Side streets running perpendicularly from centre. the High Street down to the Promenade.

Streets Spaces Views

The street is predominantly a mixture of Abercorn Park is an attractive green space. Streets and lanes leading to the small scale Georgian buildings and larger Promenade offer views of the sea from the Victorian tenements. High Street.

11 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Structure Character Appraisal The High street is an identified shopping centre that provide a diverse mix of commercial activities and in which retail frontages are protected. Key objectives involve encouraging regeneration to attract investors and generate new employment opportunities, promoting good quality design and enhancing existing quality.

Development pattern

The High Street forms a wide curving linear spine parallel to the sea with side streets running perpendicularly from it down to the Promenade. Commercial activity on Bath Street helps to draw visitors down them towards the sea. The architectural quality of the High Street is exemplified by individual buildings such as the Town Hall, the Police Station and the Georgian terraced shops with first floor housing in the eastern section

The building heights along the north side of the High Street show a high degree of uniformity, reflecting the planned Georgian development. This contrasts with the south side of the street, where building heights vary along the entire length from single storey to four storey.

There are few 20th century buildings on the south side of the High Street except a large residential conversion and further flats in the eastern section and shops and flats in the western section. All of these more recent additions are set back from the building line with the exception of the flatted block adjacent to the former Windsor Place Church.

Streets

Approaching from the west, the High Street is generally linear before curving significantly to the east of the Bath Street/Brighton Place junction. It then curves almost imperceptibly in the other direction before straightening out as it runs into Abercorn Terrace. Whilst the actual width of the street varies little throughout its length, at various points on the south side buildings have been set back from the building line - these are mostly 20th century developments - and the road widened to allow for parking. This gives these areas an air of spaciousness and helps to induce expectation and a sense of arrival in the town centre.

The street is predominantly a mixture of small scale Georgian buildings and larger Victorian tenements, with shops at ground floor and residential flats above. On the north side of

12 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area the street, between Figgate Burn and Bath Street, the building height varies significantly, Character Appraisal ranging from single storey shops to four storey tenements. East of Bath Street, the buildings are predominantly two storey with the notable exception of a three storey block at the extreme east end and the four storey tenement at the junction with Marlborough Street. There are a number of buildings which contribute to the character of the area and give focus to the townscape - the Town Hall and Police Station add variety to the facades of the High Street shop fronts.

A number of original windows remain on the upper floors, however, there are a significant number of inappropriate replacement windows

There a small number of original or historic shop fronts along the High Street, however, the majority now have modern single paned, non-traditional frames with flush doors. Over- deep fascias, garish paint and inappropriate signage further detract from the character of the Conservation Area.

The street is at its widest between Rosefield Avenue and Brighton Place. This area has a sense of being an important place for people to congregate; benches on both sides of the street and the grouping of the town’s main bank, Town Hall and Police Station all contribute to this feeling.

The High Street shops represent the bulk of the shopping facilities in the Conservation Area and provide a focus of activity for the community. The shops are mainly independent retail units catering for local needs. The shops in the High Street extend from Figgate Burn to Pittville Street on the north side with some commercial uses continuing down Bath Street. On the south side, the shops extend from Adelphi Grove to east of Marlborough Street with some shops returning down the east side of Brighton Place as far as Lee Crescent.

The commercial section of the High Street is centred on its crossroads with Brighton Place/Bath Street, and extends eastwards to Pittville Street and westwards to Kings Road, with some residential interruptions.

The spaces between the buildings are predominantly in tarmac (roads) and concrete slabs (pavements). However, soft landscaping in the form of trees is located on the south side of the High Street to the front and side of the bank.

13 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area

Spaces Character Appraisal

The buildings are set back significantly at the western entrance to the Conservation Area and to the east of Marlborough Street. The greater width at the entrance to the Conservation Area results from the grouping of residential blocks set back from the road. This area, although not part of the Conservation Area, accentuates the sense of arrival in the High Street as the building line returns sharply at the junction with Adelphi Grove, creating a sense of the street narrowing. At the east end of the High Street, the shops start at Pittville Street on the north side, the narrowing of the road and the forward building line east of Marlborough Street confirms the entry to a commercial area.

Abercorn Park is an attractive green space lined by elm, whitebeam, holly and hawthorn which forms a prominent break in the building line on the High Street.

Views

Streets and lanes leading to the Promenade offer views of the sea from the High Street. The spires of churches are distinctive landmarks and prominent in views along the High Street.

Key Elements Spine with secondary streets running perpendicular. A recognised shopping centre. Uniform height terraces to the north of the High Street. Views of the sea at various points along the street. A number of landmark buildings. Building lines to the heel of the pavement. A mix of uses, mostly with residential on upper floors. Variation in building periods, types and heights to the south of the High Street. The predominant building material in the High Street is natural stone which varies in colour, texture and condition. A number of good quality original and historic shop fronts.

14 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Promenade/Beach The beach, along with the Promenade, are significant amenities which emphasise Portobello’s reputation and character as a seaside resort.

Development Pattern Spaces Views

click image for further details There is a rich mix of building styles Today, the Promenade is an important The Promenade provides panoramic vistas fronting, or slightly set back from the part of Edinburgh’s waterfront and forms a to the coast of Fife, back towards the City Promenade. popular pedestrian route. and Leith, and down to the East Lothian countryside and North Berwick Law.

15 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development Pattern

There is a rich mix of building styles fronting, or slightly set back from the Promenade. The form of development has resulted in buildings some of which have their frontages to the Promenade and others their rear elevations. These include single storey Georgian houses, two storey Victorian terraced properties, large two to three storey detached Victorian villas and four storey Victorian tenements. There are also two modern residential developments: a pair of two storey semi-detached houses (1990) at Straiton Place and a block of flats (1996) at the bottom of Pittville Street.

In addition to the residential properties described above, there are a number of other buildings along the Promenade related to the seaside leisure industry - the Public Baths on the Promenade (1901) in red sandstone with a long front, two curving gables and first floor timber balconies.

The Tower, in Figgate Lane, was built in 1785, possibly by William Jamieson as a summerhouse for John Cunningham. It is an unusual octagonal castellated gothic building and is constructed in sandstone with red brick dressings.

Spaces

Today, the Promenade is an important part of Edinburgh’s waterfront and forms a popular pedestrian route, which, along with the well maintained sandy beach, emphasises Portobello’s seaside resort character. This character is maintained despite the loss of the pier in 1917 which was constructed around the same time as the Promenade.

The Promenade starts at the bottom of Kings Road following the edge of the sea and curving significantly before becoming part of the Conservation Area at Figgate Lane. Its width alters according to the building line and opens out between John Street and James Street and at three points between James Street and the end of the Promenade.

The surface of the Promenade is predominantly red tarmac with a thin grey concrete strip adjacent to the low concrete wall forming the physical boundary between the beach and the Promenade. The red tarmac does not have a uniform appearance due to patch repairs in a different colour.

16 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal The unifying streetscape elements are the low concrete wall to the beach side, the Views predominantly red tarmac surface and the benches and bollards, where each street or The Promenade provides panoramic vistas lane meets the Promenade. to the coast of Fife, back towards the City There are also a number of public grassed areas between Bath Street and John Street with and Leith, and down to the East Lothian the larger area also incorporating a children’s playground and a community garden with countryside and North Berwick Law. restored Coade stone pillars. An additional small grassed area is located adjacent to the north west boundary of the area. There is also a hard-landscaped children’s play area to the north west of the Promenade.

The front gardens of residential properties set back from the Promenade, and generally enclosed by varying heights of stone wall, represent the predominant form of soft landscaping on the Promenade.

The Conservation Area extends eastward to include the beach as Portobello’s coastal location was integral to its development. The beach is generally well-maintained and clean.

Key Elements Linear traffic free walkway with open views of Fife and North Berwick Law. Open views to the sea. Predominance of stone built properties, many with front doors to the Promenade, and generally retaining their original features. The predominant roof covering is slate. Good quality stone boundary walls. Easy access from side streets/lanes. Seasonal seaside attractions and indoor swimming pool. Well maintained sandy beach. Beach protected by groins.

17 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Residential Zone Includes an abundance of fine Georgian villas as well as a robust stock of Victorian villas and tenements which contribute to the suburban character. Development Pattern Streets

click image for further details In the early part of the 19th century, The residential areas have a generosity of residential development took place in four space that provide a tranquil character. distinct areas of Portobello.

Georgian Development Victorian Development

Houses have small front gardens with low Tenemental development began to invade stone boundary walls. some of the streets laid out in the early part of the century.

18 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development pattern

In the early part of the 19th century, residential development took place in four distinct areas of Portobello. By far the main development took place between 1800 and 1825 on the north side of the High Street, where streets were laid out on a grid plan, progressing from east to west. The next important area to be developed was on the south side of the High Street in the Brighton and Rosefield area. Two other small groups of houses were also built in this period; villas and part of a classic terrace in Windsor Place and several houses, mainly semi-detached, on the south side of Joppa Road, west of Morton Street.

In the Victorian period, residential development continued eastwards on both sides of the High Street. In the 1840s and 1850s, houses in a neo-classical style were built in James Street, Abercorn Terrace, Dalkeith Street and Elcho Terrace.

As the century progressed, buildings displayed a greater variety of styles and influences, including Baronial and, by the turn of the century, terraces of plain two-storey houses with bow windows at the east end of Joppa.

By this time, several detached houses in Bath Street and Marlborough Street had been demolished and these sites and other gap sites were filled with large Victorian tenements. These tenements, often in red sandstone and many displaying a profusion of exuberant carved detailing, overwhelmed their modest Georgian neighbours. Gap sites in other Georgian streets to the east were also filled with two storey houses, for example, the east side of Bellfield Street.

Residential development also continued eastwards along the Promenade where several grand villas in the French and Italian styles were built as well as large tenement blocks.

Thomas Tough, a local pottery owner, built housing in the Adelphi Place area around 1850-1860 to house his workers. As fashionable housing was being built towards the east, areas to the west, on the north side of the High Street, were filled with cheaper housing of a much higher density.

Development has changed the character of parts of the Conservation area, particularly within lanes and back-land areas, and further pressure for this type of development may arise in the future.

19 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streets

The residential areas, whether they are Georgian with a classical layout and restrained architecture, or Victorian with more informal layouts and exuberant designs, have a generosity of space that provide a tranquil character.

Georgian Development - Streets are generally relatively narrow, although they tend to become wider towards the east. Houses have small front gardens with low stone boundary walls, originally with cast iron railings (some of which have recently been replaced). Back gardens are much larger and are bounded by high stone walls.

On the north side of the High Street, the majority of Georgian streets run at right angles north towards the Promenade. Most of these streets are serviced by back lanes which originally provided access to stables and mews buildings. This grid plan layout is not repeated on the south side of the High Street where East and West Brighton Crescent cross over Brighton Place in a sweeping curve. This has resulted in a less formal layout and interesting vistas. Brighton Place is the main entrance into the Conservation Area from Duddingston and is the only remaining setted street.

A wide range of classical detailing is used. Two storey houses generally have five windows on the front elevation. Semi-detached houses often have paired doorcases, with Roman Doric pilasters. Ground floor elevations can be rusticated or smooth ashlar. There are many other variations including gothic style windows and timber external shutters.

The houses on the south side of Joppa Road, west of Morton Street are built in a variety of styles. However, they reverse the normal practice, having high stone front garden walls and large front gardens, with smaller rear gardens. This took advantage of what was originally an open outlook at the front over the Firth of Forth. The Brighton and Rosefield area (circa 1823) is one of the least altered and most East of Morton Street, on the south side of Joppa Road, is a long low terrace of workers’ architecturally important areas of Portobello. The area displays a distinctive unity of houses. Few houses of this type built in the early part of the nineteenth century survive in style as John Baxter, the builder, provided designs for the elevations of the houses. either Portobello or Joppa. These are single storey, built in stone (some with later modern Distinguished one and two storey villas are linked by single storey wings, the two facings) and roofed with red Georgian property pantiles (some having later slate roofs) on storey properties being rusticated at ground floor. The single storey villas and villas Pitville Street. with basements have doorways in both wings and houses which are within segmentally arched recesses.

20 Portobello Character Zones - Structure Conservation Area Character Appraisal Victorian Development - Streets became wider in the Victorian era, continuing the pattern of small front gardens and larger back gardens. Most streets were serviced by back lanes, although the railway line prevented this from happening on the south side of Argyle Crescent.

In the early Victorian period, houses continued to be built in the classical style. Both houses and gardens became bigger as development progressed eastwards. However, by the end of the century, houses became increasingly smaller in scale and detailing tended to become less elegant.

Gradually a greater variety of building styles came to be used. The baronial style can frequently be seen, with canted bay windows beneath steep gables. Many houses incorporate barge boarding and others decorative cast-iron balconies.

Tenemental development began to invade some of the streets laid out in the early part of the century, notably Marlborough Street, Straiton Place and Bath Street, the latter now containing a rich mixture of building styles from all eras.

Overall, the more exuberant approach to house construction adopted by the Victorians has, in places, resulted in a disparity of scale between the neat and ordered Georgian Key Elements villas and the grand decorative flourish of the Victorian tenements. This has created an interesting but restless and fragmented character. Strong formal patterns of Georgian housing eg. grids, crescents, squares and associated open space. St. John’s Roman Catholic Church in Brighton Place is the most prominent of Portobello’s Overlapping and less formal patterns of Victorian housing often of more exuberant churches. Designed by J.T. Walford and dating from 1906, it is a highly individual building, design demonstrating a range of interesting street corner treatments. mixing Gothic and Arts and Crafts styles, and its octagonal pinnacle towers dominate the High quality architecture. town’s skyline. Views of the sea from the streets leading down from Abercorn Terrace/ Joppa Road. Predominant use of traditional building materials: stone, slate, timber sash and case windows. Stone retaining and separating walls, some with original railing pattern. Variations in plot sizes and building types, heights, spacing and setbacks from the pavement. Small scale cottages with narrow plot widths at the west and east ends of the Conservation Area. System of narrow lanes and access ways between streets.

21 Portobello Management - legislation, policies and guidance Conservation Area Character Appraisal Conservation Areas Planning guidance

The Planning (Listed Buildings and efforts to retain the building and the relative More detailed, subject-specific guidance is Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997 public benefit of replacement proposals. set out in Planning Guidance documents. states that Conservation Areas “are areas Conservation Area character appraisals are Those particularly relevant to the Portobello of special architectural or historic interest, a material consideration when considering Conservation Area are: the character or appearance of which it is applications for development within desirable to preserve or enhance”. Local Conservation Areas. • Guidance for Householders authorities have a statutory duty to identify and designate such areas. • Guidance for Businesses Listed buildings • Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas Special attention must be paid to A significant number of buildings within the the character and appearance of the Portobello Conservation Area are listed for • Developer contributions and affordable Conservation Area when planning controls their special architectural or historic interest housing are being exercised. Conservation Area and are protected under the Planning status brings a number of special controls: (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) • Edinburgh Design guidance (Scotland) Act 1997. Listed building consent • The demolition of unlisted buildings • Communications Infrastructure requires Conservation Area consent. is required for the demolition of a listed building, or its alteration or extension in • Street Design Guidance • Permitted development rights, which any manner which would affect its special In addition, a number of statutory tools allow improvements or alterations to the character. external appearance of dwellinghouses are available to assist development and flatted dwellings, are removed. management within the Conservation Area.

• Works to trees are controlled (see Trees for more detail).

The demolition of unlisted buildings requires Conservation Area consent and the removal of buildings which make a positive contribution to the area is only permitted in exceptional circumstances, and where the proposals meet certain criteria relating to condition, conservation deficit, adequacy of

22 Portobello Management - Legislation, policies and guidance Conservation Area Character Appraisal GPDO and Article 4 Directions pier, harbour, water transport, or canal of development or change of use of land or inland navigation undertakings. which is likely to damage or prejudice The Town and Country Planning (General the future long term existence of trees Permitted Development) (Scotland) 38 Development by statutory undertakers covered by a TPO. The removal of trees for Order 1992, amended 2012, (abbreviated for the purpose of water undertakings. arboricultural reasons will not imply that the to GPDO), restricts the types of 39 Development by a public gas supplier. space created by their removal can be used development which can be carried out in for development. a Conservation Area without the need for 40 Development by an electricity statutory planning permission. These include most undertaker. Trees in the City contains a set of policies alterations to the external appearance of with an action plan used to guide the dwellinghouses and flats. Development management of the Council’s trees and Trees is not precluded, but such alterations will woodlands. require planning permission and special Trees within Conservation Areas are attention will be paid to the potential effect covered by the Town and Country Planning of proposals. (Scotland) Act 1997 as amended by the Planning (etc) Act 2006. This Act applies Under Article 4 of the GPDO the planning to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a authority can seek the approval of the tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict at a point 1.5m above ground level. The development rights further. The Directions planning authority must be given six weeks’ effectively control the proliferation notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop of relatively minor developments in trees. Failure to give notice will render the Conservation Areas which can cumulatively person liable to the same penalties as for lead to the erosion of character and contravention of a Tree Preservation Order appearance. Portobello Conservation (TPO). Area has Article 4 Directions covering the following classes of development: Tree Preservation Orders are made under planning legislation to protect individual 7 The erection, construction, and groups of trees considered important maintenance, improvement or for amenity or because of their cultural or alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other historic interest. When assessing amenity, means of enclosure. the importance of trees as wildlife habitats 35 Development on operational land by will be taken into consideration. There is statutory undertakers in respect of dock, a strong presumption against any form

23 Portobello Management - Assessing Development within Conservation Areas Conservation Area Character Appraisal General Criteria New Buildings

General issues to be taken into account The development of new buildings in a property. Very careful consideration will in assessing development proposals Conservation Area should be a stimulus to be required for alterations and extensions in a Conservation Area include the imaginative, high quality design, and seen affecting the roof of a property, as these may appropriateness of the overall massing as an opportunity to enhance the area. be particularly detrimental to the character of development, its scale (the expression What is important is not that new buildings and appearance of the Conservation Area. of size indicated by the windows, doors, should directly imitate earlier styles, rather floor heights, and other identifiable units), that they should be designed with respect Definition of ‘Character’ and ‘Appearance’ its proportions and its relationship with for their context, as part of a larger whole its context i.e. whether it sits comfortably. which has a well-established character and Conservation areas are places of special Development should be in harmony with, appearance of its own. Therefore, while architectural or historic interest, the or complimentary to, its neighbours having development of a gap site in a traditional character and appearance of which it is regard to the adjoining architectural terrace may require a very sensitive design desirable to preserve or enhance. styles. The use of materials generally approach to maintain the overall integrity The character of an area is the combination matching those which are historically of the area; in other cases modern designs of features and qualities which contribute dominant in the area is important, as is the sympathetic and complimentary to the to the intrinsic worth of an area and make need for the development not to have a existing character of the area may be it distinctive. Special character does not visually disruptive impact on the existing acceptable. derive only from the quality of buildings. townscape. It should also, as far as possible, Elements such as the historic layout of fit into the “grain” of the Conservation Alterations and Extensions roads, paths and boundaries, paving Area, for example, by respecting historic materials, urban grain and more intangible layout, street patterns or existing land Proposals for the alteration or extension features, such as smells and noises which form. It is also important where new uses of properties in a Conservation Area are unique to the area, may all contribute are proposed that these respect the unique will normally be acceptable where they to the local scene. Conservation area character and general ambience of the are sensitive to the existing building, in designation is the means of recognising Conservation Area, for example certain keeping with the character and appearance the importance of all these factors and of developments may adversely affect the of the particular area and do not prejudice ensuring that planning decisions address character of a Conservation Area through the amenities of adjacent properties. these qualities. noise, nuisance and general disturbance. Extensions should be subservient to the building, of an appropriate scale, use Appearance is more limited and relates appropriate materials and should normally to the way individual features within the be located on the rear elevations of a conservation area look.

24 Portobello Management -Landscape & Biodiversity Conservation Area Character Appraisal Care and attention should be paid in the Carboniferous Period. and tile works across the mouth of the distinguishing between the impact Figgate Burn over the following 18th and The beach and foreshore within the of proposed developments on both 19th centuries. As a result, by the end of Conservation Area are part of the Firth of the character and appearance of the the 19th century Portobello had became Forth Special Protection Area for their value conservation area. one of Scotland’s most significant industrial as an estuarine and coastal habitat for the potteries of which the scheduled early There are several open spaces which wintering population of wading birds and 20th century pottery kilns built in 1906 contribute to the townscape pattern of the wild fowl. and 1909 are the last residual remnants. A area - squares, parks, the Figgate Burn, and These sensitive nature conservation sites wider range of associated industries were the beach. Brighton Park and Abercorn Park must be considered if affected by any also attracted to the area including: glass are part of a formal structure surrounded by development proposal. works, a soap works, a white lead works residential streets and gardens. Rosefield and associated workers’ houses. The early Park through which the Figgate Burn runs, industrial development of the Portobello has a less formal layout. Potteries was aided by the foundation of a The Council has an obligation to take Management - Archaeology small harbour at the mouth of the Figgate account of the impact of development Prior to the mid 18th century Portobello Burn in 1787 - the remains of the harbour on species protected by legislation and appears to have remained relatively survive under the present beach, on the international commitments. The Nature undeveloped as an area of coastal sand eastern side of the Figgate Burn. Recent Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 places dunes and farmland, bisected by the excavations across the site of the former a duty on all public bodies to further the medieval coastal road linking Leith to potteries demonstrated that, despite the conservation of biodiversity as far as is Musselburgh. This historic road may have demolition of the former pottery buildings consistent with their functions. had earlier Roman origins, as the coastal and redevelopment for housing in the road linking the 2nd century AD Roman forts 1970s, extensive archaeological remains The Figgate Burn is designated as a Local at Cramond and Inveresk (Musselburgh). survive across the area. Biodiversity Site for its value as a mixed habitat wetland for its amenity grassland, Development at Portobello commenced In addition to the area’s important industrial broadleaved plantation, semi-natural in earnest in 1765 when William Jamieson, heritage, the historic core of Portobello is broadleaved woodland, standing water and an Edinburgh architect and speculative of archaeological interest in its own right running water. A small section of the beach builder feued his first parcel of land from in terms of the social development of the to the east of the Conservation Area is part Baron William Muir of Caldwell to set up settlement from its 18th century origins of the Joppa Shore Geodiversity Site which a pottery to utilise the recently discovered through to the 20th century. Excavations is designated for its geological interest rich clay deposits to the west of the Figgate in advance of the new extension to Tower including sedimentary rocks of the Upper Burn. This early industrial pottery expanded Bank Primary school unearthed the remains Limestone Formation and coal measures of with the addition of new potteries and brick of former Georgian housing providing

25 Portobello Management - Archaeology Conservation Area Character Appraisal an important insight into the early Townscape and Architectural character or, where acceptable, appropriate development of the town. development. Portobello originally developed as a Portobello is considered to be an area of settlement based on industry. In the The area is characterised by the rows of Although there are a small number of archaeological significance principally in Victorian period, it became established as a Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian villas, original or historic shop fronts along the terms of both its industrial heritage and prosperous seaside resort. The town initially terraces and tenements in a variety of styles High Street and Promenade, the majority its development during the 18th and 19th grew rapidly as a resort increasing in size with the use of blonde and red sandstones now have modern single paned, non- centuries. Depending on the scale and every year with little regularity or uniformity. helping to unify the distinct building traditional frames with flush doors. These impact of any development proposal, the From the middle of the 19th Century there periods within the area. Contemporary frontages fail to relate to the upper floors City of Edinburgh Council Archaeology was a greater planning of the layout of developments have tended to utilise non- and are discordant notes within the street Service (CECAS) may recommend a pre- the streets and building. This has resulted traditional materials that can adversely scene. Over-deep fascias, garish paint and determination evaluation in order to in a varied spatial structure, townscape affect the character of the area if used inappropriate signage further detract from assess the presence and significance of and architectural character providing an indiscriminately or excessively. Multiple the character of the Conservation Area. any surviving archaeological deposits and interesting blend of layouts, tenures and similar developments in close proximity to determine the scope of any required architectural styles. Careful attention now can have a negative cumulative effect on mitigation including preservation and needs to be paid to the extent and type character. interpretation. Similarly for works affecting of development and particularly to the A number of gable ends of properties, standing structures of historic significance, amount of land which is built on. predominantly at junctions with streets a programme of archaeological building Some recent development, mostly leading off the High Street, are in very assessment and recording may be at the ends of streets has tended to poor condition due to unsightly and patchy recommended. negatively impact on the scale, proportion rendering, poor or unfinished repair works and permeability that are part of the and peeling paint. Management - Pressures and Conservation Area’s essential character. Sensitivities A small number of original windows remain The sites on the Promenade that formerly on the upper floors, their generally poor The following pressures are associated accommodated the ghost train, to the condition combined with the presence with development proposals which front of Bath Place, and the paddling of a significant number of inappropriate Conservation Area designation, together pool, at the corner of John Street, are now replacement windows means that the upper with the Council’s policies and guidance, well maintained landscaped areas and floors of the High Street present a rather are designed to manage. The Edinburgh represent a marked improvement in terms poor image within the street scene. This is Design Guidance, Guidance for of townscape quality. However, the edge of exacerbated by the significant number of Householders and Listed Buildings and the sites to the Promenade would benefit original chimneys that have been replaced Conservation Areas explain the Council’s from improved boundary treatments in brick and render, and the general lack of approach to design in historic contexts. maintenance to stonework and paintwork.

26 Management - Pressures Management - Opportunities Management - Opportunities Portobello and Sensitivities for Development for Planning Action Conservation Area

Streetscape Character Appraisal

The High Street has benefitted from a Small-scale development opportunities The diverse quality of the architecture of resurfacing of pedestrian walkways as part for infill or replacement may arise within Portobello creates a need for a sensitivity of a previous Town Centre Regeneration the area, and will be considered in terms of approach to any new development or Fund Programme. However, the use of a of the relevant guidance. No sites within intervention. Most importantly, the design variety of sizes of concrete paviors in the the Conservation Area are identified for of new buildings or interventions should be context of the Conservation Area does not significant housing or other development based on a sound understanding of context. support a simple palette of materials as through local development plans. Policy DES1 of the Edinburgh City Local promoted by the street design guidance. Development of a significant scale is unlikely Plan and Proposed Local Development The streetscape of the High Street includes to take place within the Conservation Area. Plan requires that design should be based a proliferation of bus stops, lamp posts, However, it is recognised that development on an overall design concept that draws on litter bins, benches, telephone boxes and has changed the character of parts of the positive characteristics of the surrounding other services which can appear cluttered Conservation Area over time, particularly at area to create or reinforce a sense of place. in places. the peripheries of private open spaces or within lanes and back-land areas, and further The Council’s planning guidance generally There are a number of unifying streetscape pressure for this type of development may states a presumption for sandstone and elements along the Promenade, notably arise in the future. other traditional, natural materials where these form the predominant palette in the the street furniture such as the cast iron surroundings of the development. High benches, decorative bollards and the low quality, innovative modern designs and dividing wall to the beachside. However, materials are not precluded, but proposals the red asphalt surface is basic, with repair must be able to demonstrate their respect work in black asphalt leaving a patchy for the historic character of the host appearance. building and the area. The cumulative The diverse range of boundary treatments effect of multiple developments within the along the Promenade is in many cases same street or area should be taken into mismatched and of poor quality in terms of account. their scale, design and the materials.

27 Management - Opportunities Management - Opportunities Portobello for Planning Action for Enhancement Conservation Area Character Appraisal Conservation Area boundaries Natural environment

The boundaries of the Conservation Area The areas of open space on the Promenade Enhancing the walking and cycling have been examined through the appraisal at the foot of Marlborough Street and to the environment provides an opportunity to process. north east of Figgate Bank would benefit promote the unique and valuable open from enhanced landscaping and planting, space and natural landscape characteristics At the north western edge of the and improvements to the boundary fencing. of the area. The aims of the Edinburgh Conservation Area is an important element The full potential of these pieces of land as Biodiversity Action Plan should be of Promenade, beach and foreshore that areas of accessible amenity space should considered in any enhancement proposal signifies the approach and entrance to the be more thoroughly realised. throughout the area. Conservation Area and includes the two surviving historic kilns. This area has been The concrete cap covering the main sewer included in the Conservation Area. on the Promenade towards the bottom of Malborough Street locally known as the ‘cake stand’ would benefit from attention with the potential installation of an appropriate piece of public art.

Roads and transport

Road safety, traffic management and parking are identified as priority issues in the Portobello Neighbourhood Plan along with enhanced walking and cycling opportunities. The unique characteristics of the streetscape of the area should be protected and enhanced in any road and transport proposals. Interventions should be planned and designed taking account of their broader context in order to reinforce the sense of place. This will also involve minimising visual clutter, avoiding generic, ‘off-the-peg’ solutions, and protecting traditional surface materials and design details.

28 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal

REFERENCES

Arnot, Hugh (1779), The History of Edinburgh.

Baird,William (1898), Annals of Duddingston and Portobello.

Mekie, Margeorie (1999), Old Portobello.

Statistical Accounts for the parish of Duddingston in the years 1791/99 and 1846.

Scottish Ethnology: The development of Portobello as a seaside resort (1990).

Old and New Edinburgh (1979).

29 Portobello Conservation Area Character Appraisal

For further information please contact:

[email protected]

0131 529 4238

30 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal was approved by the Planning Committee 9th March 2006

ISBN 1 85191 084 0 Some of the maps in the document have been reproduced from the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 3 Conservation Areas 3 Character Appraisals 3 West End Conservation Area 4 World Heritage Status 5

HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT 6

ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER 12 Site Context 12 Archaeology 13 Routes 13 Natural Heritage 14 Spatial Structure 15

The Eastern Area 20 Spatial Structure 20 Townscape 20 Public Realm 21 Architectural Character 22

The Central Area 24 Spatial Stucture 24 Townscape 25 Public Realm 25 Architectural Character 26

The Western Area 28 Spatial Structure 28 Townscape 29 Public Realm 30 Architectural Character 30

ACTIVITIES AND USES 32 The Eastern Area 32 The Central Area 32 The Western Area 32

OPPORTUNITIES FOR ENHANCEMENT 33 General 35 Public Realm 35 Shop Fronts 36 Natural Heritage 36 Control of New Development 36 Role of the Public 36

STATUTORY PLANNING POLICES 37 Supplementary Guidelines 38 Implications of Conservation Area Status 38

REFERENCES 40

West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

INTRODUCTION

Conservation Areas

Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as "... areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status.

There are currently 39 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.

Character Appraisals

The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and the Scottish Executive are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas, and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced.

A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of defining the key elements that contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area.

It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The Character Appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for significant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identified in this document.

NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also specifies that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be confirmed unless a character appraisal is in place.

3 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

West End Conservation Area

The West End Conservation Area lies immediately adjacent to the New Town on its south west boundary and the Old Town on its western boundary. The Conservation Area was originally designated in 1980 and amended in 1995.

The northern boundary of the West End Conservation Area touches the end gable of the Caledonian Hotel on Lothian Road before moving westwards to then follow the rear of the properties on Rutland Square. It then swings north westwards onto Canning Street, turning onto and following Athol Crescent Lane before exiting onto Shandwick Place. The boundary then follows the centre line of Shandwick Place and West Maitland Street down to Haymarket.

At this point it turns to the east along Morrison Street, before turning south east to follow the rear line of the properties on the west side of Grove Street. This line continues down to the bridge that crosses the West Approach Road, at which point it turns northeast following the northern edge of the Approach Road. It then crosses the road to continue along the rear and southern edge of Rosemount Cottages, before crossing Gardner’s Crescent to turn north along the rear of the Georgian crescent to Morrison Street.

From this point the boundary runs eastwards along the centre line of Morrison Street arriving at Lothian Road, where it follows the centre line south before turning east onto East Fountainbridge. The buildings at the tip of Main Point on the corner of East Fountainbridge, High Riggs and Lauriston Street are included, after which the boundary follows the centre line of the West Port. From the West Port the boundary then turns down Lady Lawson Street to meet Castle Terrace, where the boundary turns northeast up to King’s Stables Road, which it follows to Lothian Road and back to the Caledonian Hotel.

The Edinburgh World Heritage Site boundary overlaps the current West End Conservation Area. From Haymarket the boundary runs up Morrison Street to Torphichen Place, where it turns north to meet Torphichen Street and then turns east. After this, the boundary follows Canning Street Lane before skirting the rear of Rutland Square, moving onto Rutland Street up to Princes Street, skirting round the Caledonian Hotel and then following Lothian Road to meet East Fountainbridge. The boundary follows East Fountainbridge up to the West Port where it meets with and follows the boundary of the Old Town Conservation Area on Lady Lawson Street.

4 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

WEST END CONSERVATION AREA BOUNDARY

World Heritage Status

The area lying to the east of Lothian Road within the West End Conservation Area is included in The World Heritage Site. Inscription as a World Heritage Site brings no additional statutory powers. However, it does commit all those involved with the development and management of the Site to ensure measures are taken to protect and enhance the area for future generations. In furthering these aims the Council produced a World Heritage Site Manifesto, which is a material consideration in assessing planning applications.

In 1999, the Edinburgh World Heritage Trust was formed and this Character Appraisal should be read in conjunction with the Management Plan for the World Heritage Site.

WORLD HERITAGE SITE BOUNDARY

5 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT

In the time of David 1 in the 1120s, the ground below the Castle was originally known as the King’s Garden adjoining St Cuthbert’s glebe. By the 1400s it is was known as Orchard Field and may have amounted to some 35 acres lying between St Cuthbert’s glebe and Morrison Street (formerly the Linlithgow road) and stretching from Castle Terrace to Haymarket. A significant part of this land was purchased towards the end of the 18th century; half by the Grindlay brothers, tanners on King’s Stable Road, and the remaining half by the Merchant Com- pany. This area contained all the early roads leading westwards out of the Old Town to Glasgow, South Queensferry and Linlithgow.

Main Point at the junction of East Fountainbridge, High Riggs and Bread Street was the collection point of these former principal routes connecting the Grassmarket to the west. Just off the West Port lies Lady Lawson Street built in 1882 under the City Improvement Acts.

The development of the west end from the late 18th century onwards was influenced by various forms of transport being overlaid across it and reducing the importance of the early roads radiating out from the West Port. In 1783 the Town Council planned Lothian Road as a “transverse great road” to link the west end of Craig’s New Town to the Midlothian road at Tollcross. The road was completed in 1785 (See map Kincaid 1784).

Kincaird 1784

6 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

From this point on, the existing patchwork of individual estates between the Castle Rock and Haymarket were identified as possible developments with many producing hopeful Georgian layouts. By 1804 (See map Ainslie 1804) develoment layouts had been produced for both the eastern and western sides of Lothian Road. However, uncertainty about the form and alignment of the New Western Approach to the Old Town, eventually built in 1836 and becoming known as Johnston Terrace, delayed these original proposals.

Ainslie 1804

Over this period the First New Town and its northern extensions became increasingly fashionable and this, allied to the delayed development, resulted in the area around Lothian Road becoming less fashionable. By 1823 (see map John Wood 1823) a new layout was proposed by William Burn. Although some schemes were started in this period, they were not completed, and it was only sites fronting main thoroughfares that were attractive. This sporadic building, left gaps that were completed by the Victorians under very different circumstances from the earlier Georgian period.

Following the completion of Lothian Road, other forms of transportation were successively proposed from the late 1700s that had a significant impact on the area. From 1797, various proposals to build a canal linking the Clyde with Leith were advanced. The connection to Leith proved financially unsound. However, a route proposed by Thomas Telford was agreed and completed in 1822, (See map john Wood 1823). Although the canal did not penetrate directly within

7 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

the boundaries of the conservation area, it determined the development pattern of Fountainbridge and Tollcross lying along the southern boundary, with new industries, new roads and three canal basins located nearby. The largest basin, Port Hopetoun, fronted directly onto Lothian Road south of Fountainbridge. The canal and its basins prompted a wave of new industries, including distilling, brewing, printing, rope-making, silk spinning, meat marketing and tanning.

John Wood 1823

The era of the canal was rapidly overtaken by the railway age with the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway Company opening in 1842 with a terminus at Haymarket. In an attempt to fend off competition, the E & G company bought the Union Canal in 1845 to prevent the Caledonian Railway buying it and draining it to use the bed as a rail track.

Undeterred, the Caledonian Railway pressed on with its proposals, opening its terminus on Lothian Road in 1848. This was the end of the layout plans that had been produced for this area since 1804. From this point on, three railway termini were built with freight being distributed from Lothian Road. An extensive coal yard was located behind the main station. The Caledonian Hotel that was added to the terminus in 1903 is all that remains.

8 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Lothian Road Goods Yard

Lothian Road Station

Through the early 1800s, proposed canal and railway developments, plus the uncertainty about the New Western Approach road to the Old Town, delayed the implementation of a number of development proposals. These factors, allied to the continuing residential expansion of the New Town northwards, significantly reduced the attractiveness of the West End Conservation Area as a fashionable extension of the New Town.

Shandwick Place and West Maitland Street were initially planned in 1805\6 as a new road to Glasgow connecting the New Town with the existing Glasgow Road, which passed through Haymarket from the West Port. It was some twenty years before development began on the east side of this street, with Torphichen Street being partially developed at the same time.

Apart from this marginal development, two further schemes were started at this time (1820s) which formed the beginning of two proposals that were never completed due to the canal and rail proposals that took place shortly after. The first of these schemes was Grove Street which started at Morrison Street in 1822 and was intended to connect to a large square that was never built due to the railway taking up the necessary ground. The second scheme was Gardner’s

9 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Crescent, constructed in 1826, which was originally meant to have a matching crescent facing it. This scheme too was clipped by the railway as well as having a canal basin, Port Hamilton, located immediately behind the existing crescent.

Once the canal and the railway had been built, the Victorians began to pick up on projects which had been started and abandoned some decades before. The road layout for William Burn’s plan for the east side of Lothian Road began to be constructed in the 1860s and was closely followed by the construction of the tenemental street blocks defined in that layout. At this time, concerns were expressed about the cramped unsanitary conditions that existed around the West Port. However, it was not until the 1880s that these conditions were tackled under the City Improvements Act, resulting in clearance and the building of Lady Lawson Street.

The situation behind West Maitland Street and Atholl Crescent was similar to that on Lothian Road, with tenemental blocks being completed from the 1850s onwards. Two examples of model housing were developed to the front of Gardner’s Crescent in 1853 and 1860, both promoted by James Gowans. Gowans also had a major impact on Castle Terrace with his idiosyncratic tenement in high Victorian gothic. This was matched in 1875 by his development for a new Theatre, Winter Garden and Aquarium on the vacant site between Cornwall Street and Cambridge Street. This building was demolished in the 1960s, creating a site which remained vacant for some thirty years.

In 1883, the Royal Lyceum theatre was built immediately behind Gowans’ West End Theatre, and this was followed by the construction of the Usher Hall in 1914 on the site of a former Board School.

The canal and the railway lasted well into the twentieth century. However, by 1920, all commercial traffic to Edinburgh had ceased. In 1922, Ports Hamilton and Hopetoun were closed, drained and sold to Edinburgh Corporation. Port Hamilton, immediately behind Gardner’s Crescent, was developed by St Cuthbert’s Cooperative Society as a large bakery and milk depot (The Co-op having started in a corner shop on Fountainbridge in 1859).

Port Hopetoun First Store

10 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Princes Street Station

The Caledonian Station lasted until 1965, and was closed due to a combination of railway cuts in 1962 and its inability to compete with Waverley in terms of routes and accessibility. Once the rails were removed, the railway line was eventually turned into the Western Approach Road, in the late 1970s, for the relief of traffic through Gorgie and Dalry.

The 1980s and 90s saw considerable development occurring in the conservation area. The vacant site on Castle Terrace, left after the demolition of Gowans’ winter garden in the 1960s, was developed as an office building with the Traverse Theatre relocated on Cambridge Street behind the Usher Hall. The conversion of Lothian Road Church in 1981 to the Edinburgh Filmhouse reinforced the cultural hub surrounding the Usher Hall.

The early 80s also saw development of the former railway site with the construction of the Sheraton Hotel, Festival Square and an office block adjacent to the Filmhouse. To prevent piecemeal development, the Council produced a development strategy for the area west of Lothian Road, lying between the Caledonian Hotel and including former railway ground and the area formerly occupied by the Co-op bakery and milk depot.

The thrust of the strategy was to relieve the demand for office accommodation in the City Centre by the provision of a new international financial office complex and an international conference centre. A Masterplan produced by Sir Terry Farrell was accepted in 1989 and on this basis development took place through the 90s.

The canal, which played a significant role in the development of the conservation area, although falling outside the southern boundary, is now itself the focus of a major regeneration exercise involving leisure, housing and office uses.

11 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER

Site Context

The West End Conservation Area is a large diverse area with a rich mix of historical periods and stages of development. It stretches from the Castle to Haymarket, east to west and from the western end of Princes Street southwards to Fountainbridge. It lies on a gentle north facing slope, with the Western boundary abutting the World Heritage Site and the New Town Conservation Area boundaries. The eastern boundary abuts the Old Town Conservation Area boundary.

The topography of the area means that views to the east towards the Castle are particularly important and are visible from many points outwith the conservation area.

The area is characterised by mixed, residential commercial buildings with the Georgian and Victorian tenements being mainly 4-6 storeys, constructed of stone with pitched, slated roofs. In the central section of the conservation area, there is a major modern financial section consisting of modern offices, which spills over the conservation area to the south. This central section is more characteristic of big city commercial districts which are untypical in an Edinburgh City Centre context.

Large scale development has, and is taking place, on the margins of the conservation area. It is important that where there are development opportunities lying adjacent to the conservation area boundary, the design of new buildings should reflect the scale, massing and materials of the conservation area. Development opportunities both within and adjacent to the conservation area must respect views out of and into the conservation area. The West End Conservation Area is of importance as a buffer zone to the World Heritage Site in terms of new development.

12 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Archaeology

Within the conservation area there are sites and areas that are of archaeological interest. In particular the area around the West Port and Portsburgh, which was a suburb of Edinburgh and lay on the main route out of the city to the south west. Similarly the area adjacent to the EICC may contain remains from the period when this was the terminal of the Union Canal.

Routes

There are three distinct periods that have overlaid traffic routes that are critical to the area.

The early medieval period established three routes connecting the Old Town to Glasgow, South Queensferry and Linlithgow. For centuries these were the principal routes coming into Edinburgh from the west. These routes still exist, as Morrison Street, Bread Street and High Riggs. With the exception of High Riggs, which has become a pedestrian only street lying primarily outside the area; the other two streets still play a significant role linking areas within the city, but have lost their importance as routes that connect Edinburgh to other towns and cities.

The Georgian period saw the construction of Lothian Road built to bypass the Old Town and link the eastern main routes with the emerging New Town. This route forms the principal spine running through the conservation area today. Shortly after the construction of Lothian Road, Shandwick Place and West Maitland Street were built, as the principal route linking the New Town, via Haymarket, with the west.

Lothian Road Shandwick Place West Maitland Street

Finally, the construction of the Western Approach Road in the 1970s on the former Caledonian Railway Line provided an inner city relief road to the city centre.

13 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Lothian Road forms the spine of the area and acts as the “High Street” for the West End Conservation Area. Two of the three principal traditional routes into the Old Town, namely Bread Street and Fountainbridge, still link areas within the city.

The Western Approach Road provides an inner city relief road to the city centre.

Natural Heritage

The glacial topography has an important influence on the character of the conservation area as it gives rise to the ‘crag and tail feature’ of Castle Rock. The eroded remains of a volcanic plug, which now creates impressive views out from the conservation area to the east. This feature constitutes part of the area designated as a composite SSSl, which also includes Arthur’s Seat and Calton Hill; notified for geological and biological interests The ice flow that created the glacial landscape created steep level changes at the rock’s base, which now provides the location for a car park of several storeys.

Other more recent changes in topography due to the excavation of transport routes, influence the character and create level changes that result in ‘left over space’. The area has relatively few open green spaces. Gardner’s Crescent is the largest designed public garden, which is important in providing a setting to the adjacent Georgian Buildings.

14 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Other green open spaces include spaces adjacent to buildings and small gardens. These areas, even though few in number, play an important role in softening building edges, and providing areas of habitat. Examples include the steep slopes adjacent to the car park at the bottom of the Castle rock and the steeply sloped area adjacent to the Western Approach Road as it is passes under Morrison Street.

Other spaces are softened by the use of a variety of different specimen trees. These are either in planters, shrub beds or set into the pavement and play an important part in contributing to the local environment.

Spatial Structure

There are three distinct elements contained within the conservation area which are a result of the development in the Georgian period of the road and canal system, closely followed by the railway in the Victorian era. The canal, while not within the conservation boundary, had a significant impact on it.

The Caledonian Railway came right into the centre of the conservation area and absorbed substantial amounts of ground for its operations. The demise of the railway released ground for the construction of the Western Approach Road and latterly provided sites for modern office and hotel developments.

15 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

SPATIAL STRUCTURE & AREAS OF THE WEST END

WESTERN AREA EASTERN AREA

CENTRAL AREA

Conservation Area Boundary Medieval Routes West Approach Road Squares/Open Spaces Areas of the West End Georgian Routes

16 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

SPATIAL STRUCTURE & AREAS OF THE WEST END

WESTERN AREA EASTERN AREA

CENTRAL AREA

Conservation Area Boundary Medieval Routes West Approach Road Squares/Open Spaces Areas of the West End Georgian Routes

17 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

FOCAL POINTS & LANDMARKS VISTAS & VIEWS

ff F ff ff F T ff F ff ff ff T F T ff ff ff F ff ff ff

Conservation Area Boundary Landmark Feature Focal Points Activity ff Intrusive Feature

Vista/Panorama Terminated View T Framed View F

18 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

FOCAL POINTS & LANDMARKS VISTAS & VIEWS

ff F ff ff F T ff F ff ff ff T F T ff ff ff F ff ff ff

Conservation Area Boundary Landmark Feature Focal Points Activity ff Intrusive Feature

Vista/Panorama Terminated View T Framed View F

19 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The Eastern Area

Spatial Strcture

This area was not affected physically by the development of either the canal or the railway. The boundary lies to the east of Lothian Road and runs from King’s Stable Road down to Fountainbridge. Here it turns east up to Main Point and the West Port, before turning down Lady Lawson Street. Reaching Spittal Street it turns east to reconnect with King’s Stable Road. This area is also located within the World Heritage Site.

This area is characterised by six perimeter blocks closely following the original layout by William Burn of 1823. One of these blocks now forms the cultural hub of the City containing the Usher Hall, two theatres and Saltire Court.

The other blocks are residential tenements, some of which have been infilled containing the former Co-op department store, now the Point Hotel, and Lawson’s timber merchants, which is now vacant.

Lothian Road, on the western boundary, is one of the main routes into the City Centre and cuts across the former medieval routes into the Old Town.

Townscape

This section of the conservation area is contained within the boundary of the World Heritage Site and is dominated on its eastern edge by the presence of the Castle.

Building lines vary within the area. Along Lothian Road, shop fronts generally project beyond the building line to the heel of the pavement. On the Victorian streets, the tenements come down on the heel of the pavement, but Castle Terrace,

20 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Cambridge Street and Cornwall all have their buildings set back, with either small front gardens or basement areas.

Generally heights of buildings are between three and four storeys with all buildings of stone construction, or stone faced. New buildings erected in the 1980s respect the heights, materials and overall massing of the area and sit well in the shadow of the Castle.

The Castle forms a dramatic backcloth overlooking the eastern boundary. Two theatres and a concert hall form a significant cultural quarter in the city. The area is characterised by tenemental perimeter blocks, some of which have been infilled.

Public Realm

There are two important public spaces contained in this area.

The multi-storey car park on Castle Terrace is a discreet building nestling against the steep slope of Kings Stables Road, which fits well into its site at the foot of the Castle rock. The top deck of this car park forms the eastern pavement to Castle Terrace, facing Saltire Court and is approximately 10 metres in width. Currently it provides the location for the Farmers’ Market. As a public space, facing onto the Castle rock, it has great potential. However, its current mix of concrete slabs, black top, trees and surface car parking fails to capitalise on its location.

21 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The square in front of the Usher Hall is particularly important linking three of Edinburgh’s primary cultural activities, namely the Traverse and Royal Lyceum Theatre and the Usher Hall. It also is adjacent to Festival Square, immediately across Lothian Road.

Architectural Character

This area is characterised by a rich diverse grouping of architectural styles and buildings, generally comprising tenemental blocks using stone and pitched, slated roofs. The area is harmonious in scale despite the presence of large cultural buildings.

Georgian development is found principally on Lothian Road, with the largest grouping occurring on the east side of Lothian Road between Bread Street and Fountainbridge. This constitutes a four storey, ashlar fronted tenement, with projecting Victorian shopfronts cast iron balconies on the upper floors. Georgian buildings tail off into Bread Street and Fountainbridge, where a transition occurs with Victorian buildings which tend to follow the layout, form, massing and use of materials established by William Burns layout.

Lady Lawson Street was developed under the City Improvement Acts and is in a typical baronial, tenemental style. In the 1890s the St. Cuthbert’s Co-operative Association built a department store, which infilled the block between Bread Street and Fountainbridge. This was remodelled in the 1930s and given a simple glazed curtain wall. In the 1990s this building was adapted to become the Point Hotel.

22 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The most singular picturesque tenement built in the Victorian era is that designed by James Gowans on Castle Terrace. It is a four and five storey building with a basement and finished by a pair of stone built crowned towers as the main centrepiece.

The Royal Lyceum Theatre of 1883 has a channelled stucco front with a pedimented centrepiece. A glazed extension to the foyer was added in the 1990s.

The Usher Hall, a notable Beaux-Art building of 1914, successfully occupies an awkward wedge at an oblique angle to Lothian Road. The curving facade of the Usher Hall is echoed in the entrance to the Traverse Theatre which forms part of a larger grouping with the office development of Saltire Court, which overlooks Castle Terrace. This is a high quality, well designed grouping that fits well into its context with modesty and discretion.

Despite the variety of architectural styles and periods, this area remains harmonious in scale, massing and materials.

23 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The Central Area

Spatial Structure

The boundary lies to the west of Lothian Road, running from Kings Stables Road to Morrison Street, where it turns left to run down to the bridge over the Western Approach Road. From here it follows the Western Approach Road and then ties in with the conservation area boundary, running along the rear of Rutland Square that then turns east to reconnect with Lothian Road.

The exception in this area is the north western corner of Lothian Road, which is occupied by Georgian tenemental buildings, with a former church that closes this small tenement group on Lothian Road. The remainder of the area has been extensively developed over the last decade on former railway ground in a number of modern styles.

The layout consists of a large scale hotel fronting Festival Square overlooking Lothian Road, with the “entrance” to the West Approach Road flanked by similar office buildings for financial institutions. The southern most of these blocks forms the northern side of Festival Square and provides the starting point for a curved office block that follows and overlooks the line of the West Approach Road, ending in a further square partially closed by the Conference Centre. The overall layout of the modern developments was an urban rationale in creating two new squares linked by a pedestrian route.

The area is generally characterised by modern buildings linked by a curved block and anchored by a square at each end.

The Film House, occupying a converted church, complements and reinforces the cultural hub on Lothian Road.

24 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Townscape

The Georgian buildings are generally between three and four storeys and constructed of stone. On Lothian Road, shop fronts come to the heel of the pavement, while on Morrison Street there are basements.

Landmarks include the office buildings flanking the entrance to the West Approach Road which are between nine and ten storeys, and splayed on their entrances. The Conference Centre on Morrison Street, designed as a drum, is approximately six storeys in height. The curved link block between Festival and Conference Squares is five storeys with a sixth floor set back.

Public Realm

Within this central area, there is a clear separation between pedestrians and vehicles, with car parks located under buildings and accessed from the West Approach Road and Morrison Street.

Pedestrian access through the area is good and linkages in a variety of directions are catered for. Both Festival Square and Conference Square are paved with high quality natural materials and the use of standard lighting is carried through into both squares.

25 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Festival Square consists of a formally designed layout containing a mixture of caithness, granite and sandstone. It also contains a formal planting scheme of hedges and clipped trees. In an attempt to create activity, sculptured balls and a fountain have been located in front of the hotel entrance.

The main pedestrian link to Conference Square is all hard landscaping, with occasional colonnades. Stairs which overlook carparks at lower levels occur along this route, Conference Square itself is minimalist in the sole use of granite cubes as flooring material.

The Western Approach Road is almost completely car dominated, lying along a former rail line and crossed at intervals by bridges, which provide pedestrian linkages.

Festival Square would benefit from a more direct pedestrian link to the Usher Hall, Festival Square and Conference Square. The pedestrian route between them comprises a range of high quality, floorscape materials, which are unco-ordinated from one space to another.

Architectural Character

With the exception of the south west corner of this area, which consists of a typical Georgian tenement with ground floor shops turning the corner of Lothian Road and Morrison Street, designed by William Burn and executed in 1822; the remainder of the buildings all date from the 1980s.

26 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The first modern building was the Sheraton Hotel, a stone faced, pedimented and corniced six storey building echoing a classical style. The positioning of the building creates a new urban square to its front overlooking Lothian Road and the square in front of the Usher Hall. This square is flanked to the south by Capital House, a six storey, stone faced office building.

The pressures for development in this area prompted the adoption of a masterplan for a new financial district, most of which has now been constructed.

Two landmark buildings now frame the entrance to the West Approach Road. Both take their height reference from the Caledonian Hotel and echo the dome of the Usher Hall and the Traverse Theatre, although the topmost features of the southernmost building resemble pagodas rather than domes. The buildings are faced with natural stone and have metal roof elments.

The north side of Festival Square is occupied by the Clydesdale Bank offices and has a crescent block leading to the west into the triangular space of Conference Square. This post modern styled block, reflects Atholl Crescent across the West Approach Road. Conference Square is part terminated by the large drum of the Conference Centre, with the new Health complex attached to the Sheraton Hotel forming the southern flank. The car park on Morrison Street forms a development opportunity, that once complete, will close the Square.

27 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The area is harmonious stylistically and in its use of high quality materials, particularly stone. It is somewhat of a counter point to the rest of the conservation area. Further developments should carefully examine the historic context within which they are located, particularly in relation to heights.

The Western Area

Spatial Structure

The boundary to this area follows Canning Street from the West Approach Road and runs westwards up to Atholl Crescent Lane. It then runs along the back of Atholl Crescent, exiting onto Shandwick Place and following West Maitland Street down to Haymarket, where it turns to the east onto Morrison Street. The boundary then runs along the rear of the properties on the west side of Grove Street up to the bridge over the West Approach Road, where it turns to follow the West Approach Road for a short distance, crosses it and incorporates Rosemount Cottages and Buildings. The boundary then crosses Gardner’s Crescent, and runs to the rear of this Georgian block before rejoining Morrison Street and running back to the West Approach Road.

Morrison Street, one of the original medieval routes leading to the Old Town, cuts through this area, linking with West Maitland Street, the Georgian route to Glasgow, at Haymarket. The West Approach Road cuts through the area at Gardner’s Crescent and forms the eastern boundary over the remainder of the area. The original Georgian planning for this area was significantly altered with the introduction of the canal system followed by the railway.

The area is generally characterised by irregularly shaped tenemental blocks, comprising buildings from a variety of periods, some with mews to the rear. Haymarket forms one of the most significant junctions in the city, a major entry point into the World Heritage Site.

28 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Townscape

Georgian buildings are generally confined to West Maitland Street and the margins of Morrison Street and Torphichen Street, consisting of three storey tenements, some with basements. The exceptions are Grove Street which has a residue of two storeys, with basement, housing and Gardner’s Crescent, which is an exceptional four storey Georgian tenemental crescent with a basement.

The rest of the area is primarily Victorian, again tenemental, but four storeys in height. There are also Victorian mews on the lanes of Canning Street and Dewar Place.

The Georgian and Victorian buildings are cohesive in scale, massing and use of materials, and are constructed of natural stone with slated roofs.

Torphichen Street and Canning Street have modern office blocks dating from the 1960 - 70s. Some of these buildings are unsympathetic in terms of scale and massing with the rest of the area. At the rear of Canning Street, there are electricity sub stations which through the use of lighting have been turned into “public art”. These buildings, while overlooking the streets at ground floor level, do not provide activity and hence the streets have a feeling of emptiness.

29 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Public Realm

The public realm consists of busy streets affected by one way systems to ease the flow of traffic around and approaching Haymarket. Consequently, footways are constrained by pedestrian barriers, traffic signs, route signs and other street furniture.

Haymarket provides a convergence point for three major vehicular routes as well as a busy railway station. This major meeting point is currently dominated by vehicular traffic, resulting in constrained pedestrian movement and does not reflect its importance as a gateway into the World Heritage Site. The insertion of the tram linking Princes Street with Haymarket presents an opportunity for removing street clutter and improving the public realm. Great care will have to be taken in order to minimise any adverse environmental impact.

Architectural Character

This area reflects a number of architectural periods. Georgian tenemental architecture turns the corners from West Maitland Street into Torphichen and Morrison Street and presents a trickle of domestic buildings on Grove Street. One of the finest pieces of Georgian architecture is found on Gardner’s Crescent, consisting of a four storey and basement tenement, which was originally meant to be mirrored with a matching facing crescent. Instead, it overlooks two fine examples of working class model housing.

The first of these is Rosemount Cottages, built by James Gowans in 1853 and comprising six blocks of flatted cottages for “the better class of mechanics.” The ground floor flats are entered on one side and the upper flats byoutside

30 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

stairs on the other. These “model houses” acted as a prototype for the colonies developments that occurred throughout the City. They are two storey stone built with pitched slated roofs.

Rosemount Buildings constructed in 1860 is a three storey quadrangle of red and yellow brick consisting of ninety six flats. This is one of the first housing schemes to break with the strong Edinburgh tradition of stone building.

Morrison Street consists of a mix of Georgian, Victorian and pre-Second World War tenements, most with shops at ground level. St. David’s Terrace and St. David’s Place are occupied by two brick buildings, one comprising offices and the other housing.

There are three buildings of interest - the Victorian school on Torphichen Street, which has been converted for office use; the former electricity offices and depot, and Conference House, a late 90s office building perched on the bridge next to the International Conference Centre overlooking the West Approach Road.

31 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

ACTIVITIES AND USES

The West End Conservation Area is extremely diverse in terms of its activities and uses ranging over city wide cultural activities, small offices and major headquarter offices, conference facilities and a wide variety of shops and restaurants.

The Eastern Area

This area forms a significant cultural hub within the city with two theatres, a concert hall and a film theatre. The cinema also lies just outside the conservation area boundary to the south. This area also contains one of the city’s premier hotels, The Point, a converted department store on Bread Street.

The east side of Lothian Road is a solid wall, at ground floor, of shops, pubs and clubs with shops filtering into the side streets to the east and a number of restaurants occurring on Grindlay Street.

The Central Area

This financial district contains a significant number of banking and insurance company offices along with the International Conference Centre and the Sheraton Hotel, all built within the last twenty years. There is a coffee bar, restaurant, and health club located in this area.

The Western Area

The mix in this area is similar to the eastern area with some modern office accommodation interwoven into the shops and a small office presence. One

32 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

characteristic is that the former Georgian residential properties along West Maitland Street and Torphichen Street are largely given over to office use.

The conservation area has a very wide mix of activities contained within it.

A Shop Front Initiative in the 1990s produced some improvement, particularly around the Conference Centre. However, shop fronts throughout the conservation area are generally poor.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR ENHANCEMENT

The Character Appraisal emphasises the more positive aspects of character in order that the future can build on what is best within the Conservation Area. The quality of urban, architectural and landscape design needs to be continuously improved if the character of the Conservation Area is to be enhanced. The retention of good quality buildings and open spaces, allied to the sensitive interpretation of traditional spatial structures in securing appropriate new development, are of particular importance.

The West End Conservation Area east of Lothian Road is wholly contained in the Edinburgh World Heritage Site. The rest of the conservation area acts as an important buffer zone to the World Heritage Site. Consequently this Character Appraisal stands alongside the World Heritage Site Management Plan. Both documents compliment and reinforce each other. The latter document sets out those elements of significance that make up the Outstanding Universal Value of the World Heritage Site.

In considering action to mitigate risks and improve the area, it is important that both documents do not solely focus alone on a narrow range of conservation policies, but recognise the balance between the Council’s strong conservation

33 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

and heritage policies and those policies to maintain the City Centre as a viable economic entity, including the regionally important City Centre shopping area. The area must respond to the challenges of a capital city centre.

The aims are set out in Edinburgh City Centre - Charting a Way Forward:

Selective redevelopment opportunities will be clearly defined and promoted to encourage the creation of additional high quality retail floorspace. At the same time an effective balance between shopping, leisure, living and working within the city centre needs to be maintained.

Improved pedestrian linkages will be forged between different parts of the city centre to enhance geographical connectivity, social integration, and connection between different activities.

Continuing investment in the public realm will be secured to preserve that unique sense of place, create the conditions for a vibrant yet safe street life, and encourage continuing private sector developments and improvements. Commitment to a rigorous and exacting maintenance regime needs to be agreed by all parties, along with funding.

Trouble-free accessibility of the city centre from other places by various modes will continue to be pursued - new and integrated public transport facilities, new walking and cycling routes, more welcoming transport interchanges, and improved car parking arrangements.

Moreover, these aims are entirely consistent with sustainability - car dependency reduced, encouragement to use public transport, renewal of the heart of the city - and with environmental protection - safeguarding our most precious asset, our world class environment.

34 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

General

The presumption of retaining and reusing buildings of merit within the area must continue, allied to priority being given to restoring and regenerating buildings through a process of high quality repair.

New development from the late l980s onward has been of some quality, including Saltire Court and the Traverse Theatre on Castle Terrace and Cambridge Street respectively, but others have failed to integrate well with the rest of the conservation area.

Public Realm

The square in front of the Usher Hall is an important public space, linking three of Edinburgh’s primary cultural activities, and lying adjacent to Festival Square across Lothian Road.

The top deck of the multi storey car park on Castle Terrace forms a ten metre wide pavement to Castle Terrace, facing Saltire Court. A footway maintenance and planting scheme is programmed for this space in the near future, which will greatly improve this space.

The public realm should be of the highest quality in terms of the materials used. Transport requirements should respect the original street layout and should follow the guidelines contained in the “Edinburgh Standards for Streets.” Temporary layouts using cheap materials should be avoided.

Street furniture and road markings can detract substantially from the public realm. Strong efforts should be made to reduce the clutter that currently exists and future proposals should be guided by the “Edinburgh Standards for Streets.”

Where new developments occur, the pavement area should adopt a simple palette of natural quality materials which is co-ordinated with adjacent buildings.

35 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Shop Fronts

Encouragement should be given to improving the quality of the shop fronts in the area, particularly those shop fronts which are particularly poorly or inappropriately designed or badly maintained.

Natural Heritage

In development sites in the area, the opportunity should be taken to introduce large scale street trees in soft planting areas to improve the local environment.

The garden at Gardner’s Crescent has some low quality materials and missing railings, trees and grass. The garden should be part of an enhancement scheme that would create a quality green space to complement the character of the Georgian Buildings.

Control of New Development

The local authority should continue to insist that new development within the area is of the highest design quality. New development should fit within and complement the urban grain and massing characteristics of the area they are located in.

Development should use the existing historic palette of building materials, particularly natural stone. It should also retain and reinforce the standard plot widths and height of street elevations, avoiding long single elevations, even where larger land packages have been assembled.

Role of the Public

It is essential that property owners accept their maintenance responsibilities. The emphasis should be on the repair rather than replacement of original features, as these contribute to the conservation area’s character as a whole. Alterations or additions should be sympathetic to the original style and of an appropriate

36 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

scale. A significant reference for maintenance is “The Care and Conservation of Georgian Houses” by Davey, Heath, Hodges, Ketchin and Milne.

STATUTORY PLANNING POLICES

The West End Conservation Area lies wholly within the area covered by the Central Edinburgh Local Plan (adopted in May 1997). This conservation area contains Edinburgh’s city centre and as such there are a significant number of policies contained in the plan.

• Conservation Area

Within the Conservation Area, the existing architectural character, historic and landscape character is to be preserved and enhanced.

37 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

• Mixed Activities •

The West End Conservation Area lies wholly within a mixed activities zone where the emphasis is on promoting an appropriate mix of activities which contribute to local character and vitality.

• Shopping • Lothian Road from Kings Stable Road up to Morrison Street and West Maitland Street from Torphichen Street to Haymarket are classed as District Shopping Centres where the policy states that new shopping development will be encouraged.

a) in the defined District shopping centres

b) in locations where it will consolidate defined shopping centres or complement the speciality shopping areas, visitor activities and entertainment areas;

c) generally in areas where it will improve local convenience.

The Council is currently preparing the Edinburgh City Local Plan, which will eventually supersede the current adopted Central Edinburgh Local Plan.

Supplementary to the Central Edinburgh Local Plan is the World Heritage Site Conservation Manifesto and the Edinburgh World Heritage Site Management Plan. The objective of the Manifesto is to assist in preserving the historic fabric of the World Heritage Site and ensure that changes complement and enhance its special character. The Management Plan is a requirement of UNESCO and identifies the outstanding universal values of the site, what the threats are to those values and how they might be mitigated.

Supplementary Guidelines

The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Quality Handbook. • Implications of Conservation Area Status

Designation as a conservation area has the following implications:

38 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

• Permitted development rights under the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992 are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses, which may be erected without consent, is also restricted to 16m2 and there are additional controls over satellite dishes.

• Under Article 4 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, the planning authority can seek approval of the Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict permitted development rights. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor alterations to buildings in conservation areas that can cumulatively lead to erosion of character and appearance. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. The West End Conservation Area is currently covered by the full range of Article 4 Directions:

Class 1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration to a dwelling house

Class 3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house

Class 6 installation, alteration or replacement of a satellite dish

Class 7 construction or alteration of gates, fences, walls or other means of enclosure

Class 38 water undertakings

Class 39 development by public gas supplier

Class 41 development by tramway or road transport undertakings

Class 40 development by electricity statutory undertaker

• Special attention must be paid to the character and appearance of the Conservation Area when planning controls are being exercised. Most applications for planning permission for alterations will, therefore, be advertised for public comment and any views expressed must be taken into account when making a decision on the application.

39 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

• Buildings, which are not statutorily listed, can normally be demolished without approval under the Planning Regulations. Within conservation areas the demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.

• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Council’s policy.

• Trees within conservation areas covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six weeks notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice renders the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.

• Edinburgh World Heritage administers grants for the external repair of buildings within the World Heritage Site and enhancement of the Site’s public realm.

REFERENCES

“By the Three Great Roads, A History of Tollcross, Fountainbridge and the West Port” edited by Drew Easton. Aberdeen University Press.

“The Buildings of Scotland - EDINBURGH” by Gifford, McWilliam and Walker. Penguin Books.

40 West End Conservation Area Character Appraisal

You can get this document on tape, in Braille, large print and various computer formats if you ask us. Please contact Interpretation and Translatoin Service (ITS) on 0131 242 8181 and quote reference number 08640. ITS can also give information on community language translations. You can get more copies of this document by calling City Development enquiries on 0131 529 3900.

Dave Anderson Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council Waverley Court 4 East Market Street Edinburgh EH8 8BG

Produced by the City Development Department: Planning & Strategy

ISBN 1 85191 084 0