SOUTH SILK ROAD ODYSSEY THROUGH , &

RESERVATION FORM June 5–20, 2016

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SOUTH CAUCASUS SILK ROAD ODYSSEY THROUGH AZERBAIJAN, GEORGIA & ARMENIA June 5–20, 2016

The millennium-long route of the Silk Road began in China and continued to Europe, passing through countries such as Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. Experience the vibrant cities, arts, Harvard Alumni Travels monuments, and natural wonders along these ancient trade routes, where many historic 124 Mount Auburn Street buildings, caravanserais, ports, and cities still stand. Yet the ongoing legacy of this remarkable 6th Floor network remains visible today in the many distinct and interconnected cultures, languages, Cambridge, MA 02138 (617) 495-2463 phone customs, arts, and religions that developed in these three nations wedged between the Black and (617) 496-4011 fax Caspian seas and at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. www.travel.hmsc.harvard.edu Join us as we experience stunning mountain landscapes, ancient history, and the modern wave of change washing over the diverse cultures of the Trans-Caucasus. Armenia, Georgia, and Azerbaijan each shares a border with the other two, yet they could hardly be more different. Three unrelated languages are spoken here, and two different religions hold sway. Each succeeding valley seems to have its own traditional songs, dances, and style of dress. But the Muslim people of Azerbaijan and the Christians of Armenia and Georgia all have robust pagan roots, a love of life, and strong cultures of hospitality, home, and hearth.

In Azerbaijan, with its rich Zoroastrian history, we witness ancient petroglyphs, wander the narrow, winding streets and colorful bazaars of Baku, visit a carpet museum, and tour the archaeological excavations of Sheki, which date back as far as 3,000 BCE.

In Georgia, we explore the cave town of , the ‘‘cradle of Georgian culture,’’ where 3,000 caves, with frescoes still intact, were carved at 10,200 feet above sea level. Enjoy Georgia’s famed food and wine, tour fortresses, historic churches, and monasteries cut into cliffs.

Finally, in Armenia, see the treasures of the 5th century Matenadaran Institute, one of the world’s oldest book depositories. Wander Erbuni Fortress, built in 782 BCE and home to a far- reaching kingdom that arose concurrent with Athens, Sparta, Babylon, and Egypt. Experience Armenia’s religious and spiritual center at Echmiadzin, founded in 117 CE. Enjoy a concert of sacred music at the pagan Temple of Garni, carved into the side of a mountain. Finally, it is important that we visit the Memorial and Museum of Genocide.

STUDY LEADER: Simon Payaslian is holder of the Charles K. and Elizabeth M. Kenosian Chair in Modern Armenian History and Literature at Boston University and associate at the Davis Center for Russian and Eurasian Studies at Harvard. He has a Ph.D. in Armenian History (UCLA, 2003) and a Ph.D. in Political Science (Wayne State University, 1992). Professor Payaslian has taught courses on the Caucasus, Armenian history, Byzantine Empire, world history, nationalism, revolutions, and Diaspora studies.

GROUP SIZE: 10 to 24 guests

PRICING: $8,295 per person double occupancy / $1,595 single supplement

SOUTH CAUCASUS SILK ROAD ODYSSEY THROUGH AZERBAIJAN, GEORGIA & ARMENIA

June 5–20, 2016

ITINERARY (B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner) Break for lunch in Shemakha, the former capital of the once

powerful Shirvan Khanate (6th–15th centuries). A renowned

winemaking district, Shemakha is also known for its finely woven Sunday, June 5 carpets and the 10th century Djuma Mosque, one of the oldest Depart U.S. mosques in the Caucasus. Arrive in Sheki in time for dinner. Depart the U.S. on flights bound for Baku, Azerbaijan. Overnight: Sheki Saray Hotel (B, L, D) (Meals aloft)

Thursday, June 9 Monday, June 6 Sheki Baku, Azerbaijan Visit the local history museum and the Khan’s Palace, decorated Arrive late evening in Azerbaijan on the shores of the Caspian Sea with striking frescoes. At nearby archaeological excavations on the and at the foothills of the majestic Caucasus Mountains. Transfer bank of the River Kish, we see little Kish Village, all that remains to the hotel. of original Sheki, which was devastated by a mudslide in the 18th Overnight: Hilton Hotel Baku (Meals aloft) century. The oldest discoveries are ceramics here date to the Early Bronze Age of the Kur-Araz culture, about 3,000 BCE.

Enjoy dinner at Sheki’s fascinating stone Caravanserai. Once Tuesday, June 7 serving as the inns of the Silk Road, Caravanserais in Sheki still Baku accommodate travelers today. Explore historic Baku. From a hill above Baku’s harbor, walk Overnight: Sheki Saray Hotel (B, L, D) Martyrs’ Lane, which pays homage to those killed during Black

January 1990, when Soviets tanks fired on Azerbaijani civilians, a turning point in Azerbaijan’s drive toward independence. Stroll Friday, June 10 through narrow, curving streets enclosed by a 12th-century rock Sheki / Region / Signagi wall as we investigate the city’s oldest quarter, stopping at bazaars and shops along the way. Depart for the Georgian border. Geographically, Georgia belongs neither to Europe nor to Asia; and culturally, Georgia’s language, Visit the Carpet Museum, where the vivid colors and bold designs customs, and traditions are uniquely its own. Accordingly, of Azeri, Caucasian, and Iranian carpets are on display. At the Georgians call their country Sakartvelo, meaning “the Georgian's Nobel Oil Club tour the Nobel Brothers’ Museum Villa Petrolea, place.” learn about the importance of Azerbaijan’s oil industry, and enjoy a private reception. Travel through the Kakheti region, Georgia’s wine country. Here, village houses back up against each other, with one family's roof Dinner features authentic Azeri dishes and traditional mugham serving as another's terrace. This region historically suffered from music. foreign invasions, and this architecture allowed defenders to retreat Overnight: Hilton Hotel Baku (B, L, D) through the maze of interconnected houses. Tour the striking Complex and Cathedral, and Fortress, once an ancient and beautiful city of gardens, markets, and Wednesday, June 8 palaces. Baku / Gobustan / Sheki Arrive in the hill town of Signagi, with its 18th-century defensive Azerbaijan boasts evidence of human habitation from the Stone wall and towers. Wander the narrow streets and admire the green Age. On the drive to Sheki, stop in Gobustan to see a collection of valleys below. ancient petroglyphs accidentally discovered by quarry workers in Overnight: Kabadoni Hotel (B, L, D) the 1930s. The carvings depict men, women, animals, and artifacts, and have been the focus of much study and speculation.

Saturday, June 11 the notched fortress walls containing two churches, a 12th-century Signagi / watchtower, , and vibrant carvings. Visit the 9th-century Bodbe Nunnery, burial place of St. Nino Return to Tbilisi this evening. who lived as a hermit in the Bodbe Gorge. This working convent Overnight: Marriott Tbilisi (B, L, D) overlooks the Alazani valley and was used as a coronation venue by the kings of Kakheti.

Continue to Tbilisi. Long an important link between East and Tuesday, June 14 West, Tbilisi is set along the Mtkvari River and has changed hands Tbilisi / Tserovani / Gori / Tbilisi many times. Most notably, the ruled the city for 400 years Drive to Gori, the birthplace of Georgia’s most infamous son, before King David the Builder defeated them in 1121 CE and Joseph Stalin. The family’s original wooden hut on Stalin Prospekt moved his capital here from Kutaisi. The Georgian king fostered is today the Stalin House Museum. Explore the fascinating cave tolerance for Tbilisi’s Arab population, and the city retains a town of ; once one of the most important stops along multiethnic atmosphere. the trade route linking Byzantium with and China, it was At tonight’s dinner, experience a traditional “Georgian Table” primarily inhabited by artisans and merchants. Some of the caves with wonderful local food and drink, and learn about Georgian were used to celebrate early pagan rituals prior to the adoption of culinary traditions. . Return to Tbilisi.

Overnight: Marriott Tbilisi (B, L, D) Overnight: Marriott Tbilisi (B, L, D)

Sunday, June 12 Wednesday, June 15 Tbilisi Tbilisi / Haghbat, Armenia / , Armenia Tour Tbilisi, including , Sioni Cathedral, and Travel into Armenia through one of the largest wilderness Narikala Fortress. Stroll along Rustaveli Avenue, the city’s main preserves in the Trans-Caucasus. Visit Haghbat, a UNESCO thoroughfare, and enjoy the intricately carved wooden balconies, a World Heritage Site built in the 10th-13th centuries and unique feature of the city’s architectural landscape. After visiting a comprised of a monastery, several khachkars (intricately carved working bakery and a craft studio, enjoy a private tour and stone crosses for which Armenia is famous), the church and the reception at the house museum of Georgian painter Elene Sanahin monastic seminary, and royal mausoleum. Armenia has Akhvlediani (1901-1974), best remembered for her atmospheric had a long and difficult history, caught between the Greek, paintings of old Tbilisi. Roman, Persian, and Ottoman empires. Christianity has been crucial to the development of a sense of identity and pride in The remainder of the evening is for exploring on your own and for Armenia. Walk amid the intimate 11th-century Hagartsin independent dinners. Monastery in a forested gorge above a mountain stream. Overnight: Marriott Tbilisi (B, L) Arrive in , home to the small mountain

resort of Dilijan, a place frequented by artists, composer, and

filmmakers. Its cobbled street has been refurbished and preserved, Monday, June 13 lined with craftsmen’s workshops, typical stone houses, a gallery, Tblilisi / / / Tblisis and a historical museum. Discover hidden treasures along the Georgian Military Highway. Overnight: Tufenkian Ananov Guesthouse Hotel (B, L, D) It was completed by Czar Alexander I in 1817 and follows an ancient track used since 150 BCE—the only north-south route through the Greater Caucasus from to Georgia. Pass Thursday, June 16 through rolling green hills and steep arid mountains dotted with Dilijan / / Jermuk ancient stone defensive towers, then drive over the 8,000 ft. Krestovy Pass. Visit the imposing , one of the first Travel along Lake Sevan. At an elevation of 5,900 feet, it boasts a Christian churches in Georgia, atop a hill overlooking the stunning setting. Stop at the Monastery, founded in confluence of the and Rivers. 874 CE and an important center of pilgrimage for Armenian Christians throughout the . Drive over Selim Pass to Continue to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Mtskheta, the where the 14th-century Selim Caravansarai served travelers and capital of the eastern Georgian from the 3rd acted as a medieval rest stop along the Silk Road. With its vaulted century BCE–5th century CE. Georgia’s conversion to ceilings, it is Armenia’s best-preserved caravansarai. In the village Christianity took place here in 337 CE. See the interior murals at of Noraduz, explore the medieval cemetery, which contains the the 11th century then follow the largest grouping of early khachkars in the country. Georgian military highway to the Ananuri Fortress Complex. See We arrive in Jermuk, originally settled in the 1st century CE, that so impressed Winston Churchill that he allegedly ordered 400 famous for the mystical qualities of its picturesque rivers and hot bottles annually. springs. Enjoy a free evening to rest and explore on your own. Overnight: Hyatt Place Jermuk (B, L, D) Overnight: Marriott Hotel (B, L)

Friday, June 17 Sunday, June 19 Jermuk / / / Yerevan / Echmiadzin / Garni / / Yerevan Drive to Yerevan, stopping along the way to visit two monasteries. We are treated to three UNESCO World Heritage sites today. Surrounded by red cliffs, the 13th-century Noravank Monastery, Explore Echmiadzin, founded in 117 CE and once the capital of with its fine Astvatsatsin (“Mother of God”) Church, stands on a Armenia, known as the spiritual center of Armenia and the seat of ledge above a gorge. The Monastery of Khor Virap, with its the Patriarch of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Tour 7th- beautiful backdrop of Mt. Ararat, is where century Hripsimeh Martyria Church and its fabulous treasury, is said to have been imprisoned. including a piece of wood from said to be from Arrive in Yerevan, founded in 782 BCE. Architecturally, the city Noah’s Ark. See the ruins of the 7th century . center displays a fusion of Armenian and Russian design. See the After lunch, visit the cliff-top Temple of Garni; built in the first large Republic Square, with broad avenues radiating from it. century CE with walls of huge basalt blocks, the temple was once Mountains surround the city, including the snow-covered peaks of the summer palace of King I. After a short live a capella Ararat. concert, we continue to the 12th-13th-century Monastery of Geghard. The monastery was carved out of the mountainside by Overnight: Marriott Hotel (B, L, D) one craftsman who spent his life decorating and enlarging the cave

chamber.

Saturday, June 18 Return to Yerevan and toast the journey with a festive farewell Yerevan dinner.

Explore Yerevan. Visit the State History Museum, which features Overnight: Marriott Hotel (B, L, D) ancient models of Yerevan, archaeological collections from the Stone Age, and a statue of a beheaded Lenin tucked into its courtyard. Peruse the local fruit and vegetable market. Experience Monday, June 20 the stirring Memorial and Museum of Genocide. According to Yerevan / Home scholarly estimates, over one million Armenians perished as a result Transfer to the airport for international flights home. of policies of the last Ottoman government between 1914 and 1918. At the 5th century Matenadaran, one of the world’s oldest (B, Meals Aloft) book depositories, we view the expansive collection. Tour Ararat

Brandy Factory, which still produces brandy to the rigid standards TERMS & CONDITIONS The following is a Harvard Alumni Travels Program

Price: $8,295 per person, double occupancy / $1,595* single supplement spirit of adventure and anticipation, and the desire to explore spectacular *Should you request to share a twin room, we will attempt to find a roommate for you; natural areas are musts. There are a couple of relatively long drives. Travel is however, if at the time of final payment no roommate is available, the single supplement fee by a private motor coach. Accommodation is in comfortable lodging ranging will be charged. from simple but clean hotels in small towns to world class five-star hotels in the capital cities. Airfare: Airfare from your home city to Baku, Azerbaijan and from Yerevan, Armenia is not included. Trip Insurance: We highly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation insurance. An application for trip cancellation insurance will be sent upon Tour Includes: All accommodation based on double occupancy per itinerary confirmation. The pre-existing medical conditions exclusion is waived if the with breakfast daily; local service charge and tax (standard hotel check-in/out insurance is purchased within 15 days of initial deposit. Neither Harvard times apply unless otherwise noted): Baku (2 nights), Sheki (2 nights), Signagi Alumni Travels nor the tour operator accepts liability for any airline (1 night), Tbilisi (4 nights), Dilijan (1 night), Jermuk (1 night), Yerevan (3 cancellation penalty incurred by the purchase of a non-refundable airline ticket nights); arrival and departure airport transfers for those arriving and departing or other expenses incurred by tour participants in preparing for the tour. As a on the tour start and end dates; land transportation per itinerary by a private service to our travelers we automatically provide emergency medical evacuation insurance. You will receive detailed coverage approximately 30 days prior to coach; all sightseeing and excursions including entrance fees per itinerary; local your departure. English speaking guides throughout itinerary; special cultural features as stated in itinerary; services of an experienced professional tour manager throughout Emergency Medical & Evacuation Insurance: As a service to our travelers, the land tour program; meals as listed in itinerary: hotel breakfast daily, Harvard Alumni Travels automatically provides basic emergency medical lunches and dinners per itinerary; beverages with included lunches and evacuation insurance. At the time of publication, this policy has the following dinners: bottled water, choice of non-alcoholic drink, tea or coffee; special schedule of benefits: $5,000 Accident/Sickness Medical Expense; $200,000 welcome and farewell dinners including beer and wine; bottled water on buses Emergency Medical Evacuation & Return of Remains; $3,000 Emergency during tour days and drives between cities; gratuities to tour manager, local Reunion; $5,000 Accidental Death & Dismemberment. This insurance covers guides, and drivers; baggage handling at hotels where available; destination travelers for the Harvard-sponsored program dates, but not for any extensions preparation information packet; $200,000 of emergency medical and or independent travel plans. You will receive detailed information on this evacuation insurance provided by Harvard. coverage approximately 30 days prior to your departure. Should you also purchase the optional trip insurance, it will provide you with benefits Tour Excludes: International airfare between the U.S. and the tour start and end additional to those stated above. This insurance is secondary to any insurance cities; air taxes and fuel surcharges; pre- or post-tour services; visa or passport fees; the traveler may already have. medical and trip cancellation/interruption insurance; evacuation costs; food or beverages not included in group meals; items of a personal nature such as laundry, Physical Health: Participation on an HMSC program requires that passengers be in generally good health. It is essential that persons with any medical alcohol, telephone expense, excess baggage fees, photo/video expenses inside problems and related dietary restrictions make them known to us well before museums (where allowed); other items not expressly listed as included. departure. We can counsel participants on whether an expedition is

appropriate for them. Reservations, Deposits, and Final Payment: To reserve a space on this program, a $1,000 deposit is required per person. Please make checks payable Responsibility: The tour operator, its owners and employees act only as to Harvard University and send along with the completed reservation form to: agents for the various independent suppliers and contractors providing Harvard Alumni Travels, 124 Mount Auburn Street, 6th Floor, Cambridge, transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant and other services connected MA 02138. Reservations are acknowledged in order of receipt. Balance of with this tour. Such travel and services are subject to the terms and conditions payment for all tour costs is due by check only by March 5, 2016, 90 days under which such accommodations, services and transportation are offered or prior to departure. provided, and Harvard Alumni Travels and the tour operator and their

respective employees, agents, representatives, and assigns, accept no liability Cancellations and Refunds: Cancellations are effective when received by the therefore. Harvard Alumni Travels and the tour operator assume no liability Travel Program in writing. Should you have to cancel the following charges for any injury, damage, loss, accident, delay or other irregularity which may be will apply: Notice received more than 90 days prior to departure: $1,000 per caused by the defect of any aircraft or vehicle or the negligence or default of person cancellation fee; notice between 90 and 61 days prior to departure: any company or person engaged in carrying out or performing any of the 50% of the land tour cost; no refund shall be issued if cancellation is received services involved. Additionally, responsibility is not accepted for losses, injury, less than 60 days prior to departure date. No refunds shall be issued after the damages or expenses of any kind due to sickness, weather, strikes, local laws, tour has commenced. No refunds shall be issued for occasional missed meals, hostilities, wars, terrorist acts, acts of nature or other such causes. All services sightseeing tours, or any unused services. Cancellation of air reservation is and accommodations are subject to the laws of the country in which they are subject to the rules and regulations of the respective air carrier companies. provided. Harvard University, HMSC, and the tour operator reserve the right

to make changes in the published itinerary whenever, in their sole judgment, Tour Size: This tour, exclusively designed for the Harvard Museums of conditions warrant, or if they deem it necessary for the comfort, convenience Science & Culture (HMSC), is limited to 24 participants on a first-come, or safety of the tour participants. They reserve the right to withdraw this tour first-served basis. The minimum group size is 10. Should the minimum not be without penalty. The right is also reserved to decline to accept or retain any met, we reserve the right to cancel the program, levy a small group surcharge, person as a member of the tour, or to substitute another qualified leader or and/or send the program without a Harvard representative. special guest. Baggage and personal effects are the sole responsibility of the

owners at all times. The price of the program is given in good faith based on What to Expect: This exclusive expedition is designed for HMSC members current tariffs and rates, and is subject to change. Any tariff, exchange rate, or and friends who are interested in learning about history, culture, and natural fuel increases will be passed on to participants. Harvard Alumni Travels and history. This is a moderately active program. Some walks are potentially long the tour operator assume no liability for any airline cancellation penalty and over uneven terrain. There will be a lot of walking on cobblestone and incurred by the purchase of a nonrefundable ticket. The air ticket, when occasionally unpaved surfaces in old cities and natural areas. Some sites require issued, shall constitute the sole contract between the passenger and the airline climbing several flights of stairs without handrails. Typically, the weather is concerned. As a part of the consideration and right to participate in this tour, warm during the day with cool but pleasant nights. Since some of the travel each participant will be asked to sign a liability release which will be provided will be in remote areas, everyone must be flexible concerning time schedules, to confirmed participants and is available upon request. food, insects, weather, road conditions, and dust. In order to enjoy this trip, a