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Home , Downtown Ottawa, Ottawa River

1 The Best of

As a native of this city, I’ve seen Ottawa evolve over 5 decades—from a sleepy civil service town to a national capital that can proudly hold its own with any city of comparable size. The official population is more than 800,000, but the central core is compact and its skyline relatively short. Most Ottawans live in suburban, or even rural, communities. The buses are packed twice a day with government workers who live in communities like Kanata, Nepean, Gloucester, and Orleans, which were individually incorporated cities until municipal amalgamation in 2001. Although there are a number of residential neighborhoods close to downtown, you won’t find the kind of towering condominiums that line the downtown streets of Toronto or Vancouver. As a result, Ottawa is not the kind of city where the downtown sidewalks are bustling with people after dark, with the exception of the ByWard Market and . One could make the case that Ottawa would be very dull indeed were it not for Queen Victoria’s decision to anoint it capital of the newly minted Dominion of . Thanks to her choice, tourists flock to the Parliament Buildings, five major national museums, a handful of government-funded festivals, and the Rideau . Increasingly, tourists are spreading out beyond the well-established attractions to discover the burgeoning urban neighborhoods like Wellington West and , and venturing into the nearby countryside. For visitors, Ottawa is an ideal walking city. Most of the major attractions—and since this is a national capital, there are many—are within easy walking distance of the major hotels. Size also expresses itself in the way people treat each other here. Although there is a typically central Canadian reserve to human relations, it’s balanced by an openness that’s characteristic of small communities. Community is important; neighborhood activities are well attended. Ottawa is also a city connected to nature. The glacial deposits known as the Hills sit just across the border with to the north. To the south and west, farmers’ fields begin long before you hit the city limits. Ottawa’s European heritage shows itself in the large number of green spaces in the urban core. And the city’s clean—you’ll hear that from other visitors, and probably pass the remark yourself. Although the air quality can be poor on humid summer days, fall and winter bring crystalline air, and the streets are remarkably free of litter. Graffiti is frowned upon and quickly erased. Ottawa’s other bond with nature is its . The city’s roots as a community lie in its proximity toCOPYRIGHTED three—the Ottawa, Rideau, and Gatineau MATERIAL rivers —and they, along with the history that flows from them, define Ottawa. Geographically, the city streets curve to follow the rivers, and having to cross the rivers is a daily fact of life. The , a distinguishing feature of the city, was built to make the Rideau navigable. In the winter, when the canal is transformed into the world’s largest skating rink, you can see Ottawans and visitors alike celebrating winter even as they defy its bitter sting. Aside from its history, natural beauty, and cleanliness, Ottawa is known as a great place to raise a family. I’ll attest to that, both as a son and as a father. It has been, and contin- ues to be, a wonderful place to live. Enjoy my city!

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• Celebrate Canada’s Birthday: Spend or the Rideau Canal; rent Canada Day (July 1) in the nation’s a paddleboat, canoe, or kayak on Dow’s capital—there’s no experience quite like Lake; picnic on the city’s riverbanks; it. Head downtown and prepare for a sizzle on a sandy beach; or ride the full day of uniquely Canadian celebra- white water of the Ottawa River north- tions. Start the day with the ceremony west of the city. See chapter 7. of the Changing of the Guard. Watch • Marvel at the Museums: At a mini- the Canadian flag rise above the Peace mum, set aside half a day to spend at Tower on , chat with the the world-class Canadian Museum of friendly Mounties mingling with the Civilization. Life-size renderings of the crowds (don’t forget to ask if they’ll social, cultural, and material history of pose for a photo), and take in a free Canada since the landing of the first concert. Have your face painted or tat- Europeans in A.D. 1000 will captivate tooed (temporarily) in red and white, even the most reluctant museumgoer. wave a paper flag, and buy a hat or The majestic Grand Hall displays more T-shirt with a Canadian symbol to than 40 gigantic totem poles from the 1 blend in with the throngs wandering Pacific Northwest. A hands-on Chil- the streets. In the evening, cast your dren’s Museum, which invites children eyes skyward for the best fireworks dis- to experience the fascinating cultural play of the year. See “A Capital Is Born” mosaic of the world we live in, is in chapter 2. housed within the complex. See p. 119. • Skate on the Rideau Canal: Even if • Play in the Snow at : This you live in a part of the country where annual winter festival, held during the ice skating is a winter activity, it likely first three weekends of February, is a takes place at a community rink, where celebration of snow, ice, and outdoor you end up skating around . . . and activity. and around . . . and around. An hour or two Gatineau are transformed into winter of that is enough to make anyone hang wonderlands filled with gigantic snow up their blades for good. But in Ottawa, sculptures, glittering ice sculptures, and you can experience the world’s ultimate a Snowflake Kingdom especially for skating rink—the Rideau Canal— kids. The Snowbowl, a new outdoor which offers almost 8km (5 miles) of entertainment venue, features a variety wide-open space and ever-changing of performances including music, skat- scenery. Warm-up huts are stationed ing demonstrations, and more. Winter-

FROMMER’S FAVORITE OTTAWA EXPERIENCES OTTAWA FAVORITE FROMMER’S along OTTAWA OF BEST THE the way, where you can sip a hot lude activities are based at three main chocolate or munch on a BeaverTail sites: the Rideau Canal Skateway (major pastry. Skate and sled rentals are avail- access points are Rideau St. downtown, able. See p. 142. Fifth Ave. and in the • Enjoy the Waterways: Ottawa’s history Glebe, and Dow’s Lake), Confederation and beauty are deeply tied to the water- Park, and Jacques-Cartier Park in ways in the region, the scenic Ottawa Gatineau. See p. 29. River, , , • View the Parliament Buildings and and Rideau Canal. You can watch the the Ottawa Skyline: From the Alexan- locks in operation; take a cruise on the dra Bridge, Jacques-Cartier Park in

005_156957-ch01.indd5_156957-ch01.indd 4 11/6/09/6/09 9:49:549:49:54 PPMM Gatineau, and the pathways along the • Shop in the Glebe: This fashionable 5 north shore of the Ottawa River, you’ll shopping district stretches along Bank get a breathtaking view of the Parlia- Street between the Queensway and the ment Buildings and the Ottawa skyline. Rideau Canal. Most retailers are inde- The view from the Capital Infocentre pendent and the merchandise is good on Wellington Street facing toward the quality. It’s well worth spending a front of Parliament Hill is one of the morning or afternoon strolling up one most photographed in Ottawa, but the side of the street and down the other. very best view of the Hill and its sur- See p. 168. roundings is from the little-used amphi- • Tiptoe Through the Tulips: Visit theatre just behind the National Art Ottawa in mid-May and you’ll be daz- Gallery. Watching the moon rise from zled by millions of tulips blooming THE BEST OF OTTAWA the wooden benches can be spectacu- throughout the capital region. Com- lar—to say nothing of romantic. missioners Park, alongside Dow’s Lake, • Ride to the Top of the : features an orchestrated display of tulip When you’ve taken in the grace and beds with more than 300,000 blooms. majesty of the exterior of the Parlia- Many of the events of the Canadian ment Buildings, hop in the elevator and Tulip Festival take place in Major’s Hill ride up to the observation deck at the Park, northeast of the Parliament Build- top of the Peace Tower. Built between ings and behind the Fairmont Château 1919 and 1927, the 92m (302-ft.) Laurier. Ottawa’s festival of tulips began 1 tower is a memorial to the more than with a thank-you gift of several thou-

60,000 Canadian soldiers who lost their sand bulbs from the Dutch royal family BEST HOTEL BETS lives during World War I. The glass- after World War II. Since then, the enclosed observation deck offers mag- tulips of Ottawa have grown to repre- nificent views in all directions. See sent international friendship and the p. 118. arrival of spring in Canada. See p. 30. • Stroll the ByWard Market: The • Be Dazzled by the Autumn Leaves: ByWard Market district has something , a wilderness area cover- for everyone, from funky shops to ing 361sq. km (139 sq. miles) in Que- upscale restaurants, outdoor cafes, and bec’s , is a short drive an authentic farmers’ market with from downtown Ottawa. It’s beautiful excellent-quality fresh produce and in all seasons, but the abundance of flowers. The place bustles with activity deciduous trees makes it especially col- and bubbles with personality. See orful in the fall. There are many hiking p. 133. trails to suit a variety of ages and fitness levels. Maps are available. See p. 202.

2 BEST HOTEL BETS

• Best Historic Hotel: The elegant this is the place to stay. The extensive Edwardian Fairmont Château Laurier, health club and pool area, added back 1 Rideau St. (& 800/441-1414 or 613/ in 1929, superbly demonstrate Art 241-1414), is a most admirably pre- Deco design. See p. 80. served and maintained property, both • Best Business Hotel: Bostonian Exec- inside and out. If you’re looking for utive Suites, 341 MacLaren St. (& 866/ tradition, luxury, and attentive service, 320-4567 or 613/594-5757), has placed

005_156957-ch01.indd5_156957-ch01.indd 5 11/6/09/6/09 9:49:549:49:54 PPMM 6 a real emphasis on business travelers, “Where to Stay.” Sharing the top spot creating a business-focused atmosphere by a whisker are the Albert at Bay Suite with Wi-Fi, a 24-hour business center, Hotel, 435 Albert St. (& 800/331- ergonomic desk chairs, and concierge 3131 or 613/231-2020), and Minto service. See p. 76. Suite Hotel, 433 Laurier Ave. W. • Best for Families: With so many (& 800/267-6644 or 613/238-8858). Ottawa hotels competing for the family Both have beautifully appointed, spa- leisure market, family packages and cious suites with well-equipped kitch- facilities for children abound at many ens. Their convenient downtown downtown properties, so it’s not easy to locations, stylish design, and courteous, choose a single property as the best of friendly staff earn them top marks. See the bunch. For many years, the Delta p. 74 and 78. Ottawa Hotel and Suites, 361 Queen • Best Location: The Lord Elgin, 100 St. (& 800/268-1133 or 613/238- Elgin St. (& 800/267-4298 or 613/235- 6000) has unofficially earned the title of 3333), could not be better located as a tops for children in Ottawa, due not base for visitors to Ottawa. Directly least to the popularity of its two-story across the street is , indoor waterslide. See p. 71. a small but pretty city park that’s a leafy • Best Luxury Hotel: The breathtaking respite in summer and a glittering ice splendor of the Hilton Lac-Leamy, palace in winter (during the Winterlude 1 adjacent to Casino du Lac-Leamy, 3 festival). The is boul. du Casino, Gatineau (& 866/488- across the street; Parliament Hill, the 7888 or 819/790-6444), set a new Rideau Canal, ByWard Market, and standard of luxury in Canada’s capital Rideau Shopping Centre are a 5-min- region when it opened in 2001. The ute stroll away. If you venture south main lobby features a spectacular along Elgin Street, you’ll find plenty of blown-glass sculpture. Public areas are pleasant eateries, lively pubs, and shops. adorned with ceramic and marble. See p. 78.

BEST HOTEL BETS HOTEL BEST Views OTTAWA OF BEST THE of Lac Leamy, Lac de la Carrière • Best Health Club: With its great views with its trademark fountain, and the of Parliament Hill, outdoor lounge Ottawa skyline are stunning. Guest chairs, and barbecue area, it’s tough to facilities include spa, indoor/outdoor find a better place to work out than the pool, tennis courts, fitness center, and Westin Workout Powered by Reebok adjacent performance hall and award- gym at the Westin Ottawa, 11 Colonel winning fine-dining restaurant. See By Dr. (& 888/625-5144 or 613/560- p. 88. 7000). The stationary bikes and tread- • Best Budget Accommodation: Between mills face floor-to-ceiling windows, and May and August, head to the Univer- there’s also an indoor pool, whirlpool, sity of Ottawa, 90 rue Université, and squash courts. See p. 80. (& 613/564-5400). Its downtown, • Best Resort: Leisure and recreational apartment-style residences are two-bed- activities are outstanding at the Brook- room units with double beds, TV, street in Ottawa’s west end, the heart of kitchenette, and private bathroom. Up Silicon Valley North, 525 Legget Dr. to four people can stay for a flat fee of (& 888/826-2220 or 613/271-1800). C$99 per night. See p. 83. Their 18-hole golf course, the Marshes, • Best Suite Hotel: There’s an abundance was the final father-and-son Robert of good suite hotels in the city, as you’ll Trent Jones design collaboration. There’s see if you browse through chapter 5, a state-of-the-art health club and spa

005_156957-ch01.indd5_156957-ch01.indd 6 11/6/09/6/09 9:49:549:49:54 PPMM on-site. Guest rooms have a boutique- • Best B&B Period Decor: You’ll find 7 hotel feel. Perspectives restaurant fea- many period details throughout the tures contemporary Canadian fine distinguished Auberge “The King dining with an Asian influence. See Edward” B&B, 525 King Edward Ave. p. 86. Château Cartier Resort, 1170 (& 800/841-8786 or 613/565-6700). chemin Aylmer, Gatineau (& 800/807- The front parlor is a peaceful oasis of 1088 or 819/777-1088), just a short tropical plants, accented by a trickling drive from Ottawa, features an 18-hole fountain. Antiques are featured through- golf course. Activities abound here— out the principal rooms. Original fire- guests can enjoy racquetball, squash, places, plaster moldings, pillars, and tennis, ice skating, cross-country skiing, stained-glass windows complete the and more. Relax in the luxurious spa. picture. During the Christmas season, a THE BEST OF OTTAWA Most rooms here are junior suites, 3.6m (12-ft.) tall Christmas tree above average in amenities and decor. trimmed with Victorian decorations is a See p. 90. sight to behold. See p. 82.

3 BEST DINING BETS

• Best Service: For pure attentiveness and Warren Sutherland, the co-owner- and attention to detail, I’d put Signa- chefs at Sweetgrass, 108 Murray St. 1 tures, 453 Laurier Ave. East (& 613/ (& 613/562-3683). The combination 236-2499), on a par with any restau- of her Cree heritage and his Jamaican BEST DINING BETS rant I’ve tried in North America. That roots (to say nothing of his time at a much service comes with a price, of New York City kosher restaurant) is course; at Signatures, it’s upwards of unique. See p. 101. C$300. See p. 99. • Best Canadian: The freshest available • Best Wine List: The name says it all at regional, seasonal, and often organic Beckta Dining & Wine (p. 95), 226 products are employed to create uniquely Nepean St. (& 613/238-7063). While Canadian dishes such as pan-roasted most restaurants are chef driven, owner Quebec foie gras, grilled -raised Stephen Beckta made his reputation as buffalo striploin, and wild BC red a sommelier, and he’s proud enough of spring salmon, on the constantly chang- his establishment’s wine list to tout it in ing menu at John Taylor at Domus the brand. The selection has a nice bal- Café, 87 Murray St. (& 613/241-007). ance of Old and New World labels, but p. 100. it’s constantly in flux. Beckta’s also one • Best Asian: Kinki, 41 York St. (& 613/ of the few Ottawa restaurateurs to take 789-7559) is one of those restaurants advantage of the liberalized provincial that changes the way people perceive a liquor laws that allow diners to bring city’s culinary scene. Its arrival created a their own vintages in exchange for a buzz for months, and Kinki has contin- corkage fee. See p. 95. ued to experiment with its menu, com- • Best Fusion: A lot of restaurants throw bining both traditional sushi with unusual the term fusion around as shorthand for hot dishes, like its spicy coconut sauce saying that their chef’s recipes combine and gnocchi combination. See p. 103. different flavors or preparation styles, • Best Italian: Housed in a heritage stone but no one in Ottawa does fusion more building, Mamma Grazzi’s Kitchen, creatively—or naturally—than Phoebe 25 George St. (& 613/241-8656), is

005_156957-ch01.indd5_156957-ch01.indd 7 11/6/09/6/09 9:49:549:49:54 PPMM 8 especially pleasant in the summer, when can do other types of seafood well too. you can dine alfresco in the cobblestone See p. 96. courtyard at the rear. I’ve been coming • Best Bistro: Another hard choice, given here for years and have never been dis- the number of new restaurants that are appointed with the food or the service. specializing in informal, bistro-style See p. 103. cuisine, but I found myself reflecting • Best Young Chef: This is a tough call most rapturously on my first meal since Ottawa has more than its share of at the new Murray Street Kitchen, bold, young kitchen magicians just Wine & Charcuterie, 110 Murray St. now, but the edge goes to Chris Dera- (& 613/562-7244), which opened in iche at the Wellington Gastropub, the summer of 2008. The restaurant 1325 Wellington St. (& 613/729-1315). combines the rustic charm of wide- From fragile fish dishes to hearty wild plank wooden floors and its charcute- boar ragu, Deraiche does everything rie/cheese bar with some of the most well, and his excitement about what he’s over-the-top cooking you’ll find in preparing is palpable at the table. See Canada. See p. 104. p. 108. • Best Alfresco Dining: All of the four • Best Ice Cream: There are several good restaurants that share historic, cobble- gelato places in Ottawa, but you can’t stoned Clarendon Court provide a great beat the authenticity of Pasticceria outdoor setting, but Social, 537 Sussex & 1 Gelateria Italiana, 200 Preston St. Dr. ( 613/789-7355), has the best (& 613/233-6199). See p. 102. As view of the square. See p. 101. with the old-fashioned baked goods • Best Hotel Dining: Brookstreet, 525 here—represented in staggering amounts Legget Dr. (& 613/271-1800), does a and variety—the gelato is served the lot of things well, so it’s no surprise that same way it has been for decades, and its restaurant, Perspectives, offers not you won’t find wacky flavors like pea- only the best hotel dining in the city, nut butter crunch. but is in the running for best restaurant, • Best Pizza: Pizzas almost fly from the period. The winner of several awards, it BEST DINING BETS DINING BEST oven OTTAWA OF BEST THE onto tables and out the door at also finds ways of making dining a par- Café Colonnade, 280 Metcalfe St. ticipatory event, with evenings that (& 613/237-3179). Their famous include preparation of part of the meal, pizza has a thick crust with a sprinkling and special seatings at the chef’s table of cheese around the edge, a generous by invitation. See p. 86. smear of tangy tomato sauce, and gooey • Best Casual Dining: The Elgin Street mozzarella to hold the toppings in Diner, 374 Elgin St. (& 613/237- place. On warm summer days and eve- 9700), is a comfy, neighborhood kind nings you can hang out on the outdoor of place where you can saunter in, flop terrace. Takeout is also available. See into a chair, and hang out with a coffee p. 97. while the kids slurp milk shakes and • Best Seafood: The local owners of the chomp peanut butter and jam sand- Whalesbone Oyster House, 430 Bank wiches. There are plenty of satisfying St. (& 613/231-8569), have long sup- old-fashioned dinners on the menu, plied first-rate bivalves to several restau- including meat loaf, shepherd’s pie, and rants around town. In 2006, they liver and onions. See p. 98. opened their own place and proved they

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• See Canadian History on the Hoof: • Winter Wonderland: Ottawa is proud The RCMP Musical Ride is a uniquely of its status as the world’s second-cold- Canadian experience that has been suc- est capital city. Snowbound activities cessfully exported around the world. aren’t restricted to Winterlude, either; The force’s rehearsals let you get up check out the tubing and snowboarding close and personal with their mounts. fun in the heart of the city at Carling- See p. 126. ton Snowpark. See p. 154. • Get in Touch with Nature: Ottawa’s • Get Wet!: In summer, the ski areas

proximity to natural areas allows you north of the city offer an alternative, THE BEST OF OTTAWA get into the heart of a forest or natural wetter form of fun. With its vertical rise bog in a matter of minutes from down- of 160m (525 ft.) Mont Cascades’ town. The best place to do this is the water park offers a range of wet-and- Mer Bleue Conservation Area, a favor- wild fun, including tunnel slides, paral- ite with school groups. See p. 137. lel racing, and splash areas for the • Burn Off Some Energy: Okay, it’s rain- younger ones. See p. 206. ing and your brood has had its fill of • Airborne Adventure: The daredevils in museums for the day. There’s no better your group can get it on by diving 60m place to let them run wild than Cosmic (197 ft.) headfirst into a limestone 1 Adventures, where kids 12 and under quarry at Great Canadian Bungee

can explore a four-level play area. or roaring down the 310m (1,017-ft.) BEST ADVENTURES FOR KIDS • Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid!: A town RIPRIDE cable slide. See p. 207. with as much history as Ottawa has to • Go Up, or Down: Located just a have some ghosts, right? Haunted 30-minute drive from downtown, Walks offers several ghostly adventures, LaFlèche Adventure gives your kids a including a tour of the city’s old jail, choice of aerial exploration—in the where Canada’s last public hanging park’s 82 suspension bridges—or going took place. See p. 144. underground in a series of white marble • Roll On!: Few cities in North America caves. See p. 207. are as bike friendly as Ottawa, and the • Hit the White Water: Rafting is best way to see a lot of it is on Sunday immensely popular on the upper reaches in the summer, when 52km (32 miles) of the Ottawa River, and Owl Rafting of paved parkways are restricted to offers a half-day family float trip that bicycle—and skate—traffic, beginning will give you and yours a terrific over- at 6am. See p. 151 for details and view of the mighty river that defines the p. 148 for bike rental information. city. See p. 214.

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