Discharge Printing on Cotton Knitted Fabrics Using Enzyme and Brewers Yeast
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205 Journal of Applied Sciences Research, 9(1): 205-225, 2013 ISSN 1819-544X This is a refereed journal and all articles are professionally screened and reviewed ORIGINAL ARTICLES Bio- discharge Printing on Cotton Knitted Fabrics Using Enzyme and Brewers Yeast A.A. Ragheb, K. Haggag, I. Abd EL- Thalouth M. Rekaby, H.M. El-Hennawi and A.A. Shahin Textile Division, National Research center, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt ABSTRACT Innovative technology to use Eco- friendly bio materials comprise Laccase, Valumax A828, Valumax A356 as well as brewer’s yeast to replace the hazerd chemicals which are used in discharge printing has been done successfully. The effect of technique applied enzyme concentration, pH of the printing paste, enzymatic treatment time and temperature on as well as the nature of reactive dye used on the colour discharge were studied to obtain the optimum conditions. Successfully results were obtained on using Laccase enzyme and brewer’s yeast as a bio discharging agent instead of unecofriendly reducing agents. The activity of the used biomaterials follows the order laccaze enzyme> Brewer’s yeast > Valumax A828 > Valumax A356. Samples of different attractive coloured halftones could be obtained. Key words: Cotton Knitted Fabrics, Bio- discharge Pinting, Enzyme, Brewers Yeast Introduction Textile printing is one of the most versatile and important methods used for introducing colour and design to textile fabrics. It is a process of bringing together a design idea, one or more colourants, and a textile substrate (usually fabric), using a technique for applying the colourants with some precision. Several techniques have been used and the colourants available have multiplied. The enzymes are naturally high molecular weight proteins capable of catalyzing the chemical reactions of biological processes and hence are known as "Biocatalyst". An enzyme is defined as a protein complex composed of about 200 to 250 amino acids. Nowadays, enzymes have found a variety of uses in textile as environmentally-acceptable alternatives of some polluting chemical materials (Gamal,1999). The theory of discharge printing involves the degradation, by chemical reagents, of the chromophore system of the dyestuffs applied to the textile material (Hardalov,1992). The most important discharging agents in textile printing today are reducing agents. The latter comprise sulphoxylic acid derivatives and its salts as well as stannous chloride. The reaction takes place during the steaming fixation step and the quality of the products depends, to great extent, on the temperature and moisture content during fixation where any error will cause destruction of cellulose material (Hardalov,1992). Recently, the environmental and industrial safety conditions increased the potential for use of enzymes in textile processing to ensure ecofriendly production (Judd and Wyszecki,1975; Pratt,1994; Klarhorst et al.,1994; Liu et al.,2000; Chattopadhyay and Sanyal,2001;Heine and Hoecker,2001; Jin and Maekawa,2001; Peter,2002; Waddell,2002; Patra,2003; Phillips et al., 2003). The use of enzymes in textile processing is well-known and for some technologies is well established, e.g. in denim bleaching (Heine and Hoecker,2001). The present work aims at using eco-friendly enzymes or yeast to replace the hazardous chemicals which are used currently in discharge printing of knitted garment on lab scele. Experimental: Materials: Knitted cotton fabric Weight of the fabric was 175 g/m2, the fabric structure:- No. of Courses / Cm / 13 No. of Wales / Cm / 13 Corresponding Author: Karima Haggag, Textile Division, National Research center, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt E-mail: [email protected] 206 J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(1): 205-225, 2013 1.2 Dyestuff: Four different Dischargeable reactive dye, Namely Sunzol brill. Orange (C. I. Reactive), Sunzol yellow 2R, Sunzol Red, and Sunzol Blue were kindly supplied from Egypt colours, Heliopolis, Cairo, Egypt. Their active center is vinylsulphone. 1.3-Enzymes and yeast: The following three different commercial enzymes and a brewer yeast were used: (1) Denilite IIS which is a commercial product based on Laccase enzyme, supplied by NovoNordisk Company, Denmark. (2) Valumax® A828 from Aspergillus Oryzae, was supplied by Novozymes, Denmark, of declared activity 2000 ECU/g; Cellulase Unit per gram. (3) Valumax® A356 was purchased from Novozymes, Denmark: its declared activity 120 CVU/g; Combi Cellulase Units per gram. It is produced by submerged fermentation of genetically modified microorganisms. (4) Locally available brewer's yeast was also used Methods: Preparation of brewer's yeast suspension: The suspension of active yeast was prepared as follows: 450 g. dry weight of Brewer's yeast was pasted with 150 g. sugar, and then one liter warm water (at 40°C) was added to the paste of yeast while stirring for a period of time until the yeast was brewed. Finally the solution was filtrated and frozen. Bioprinting of cotton fabrics: The cotton fabrics were printed with a printing paste containing the thickening agent and the enzyme (white paste) using the recipe shown below: Enzyme X Sodium alginate 30 Water y Total 1000 g Sodium alginate was soaked in a small amount of water overnight at room temperature before preparing the colourless printing paste. The enzyme was then added onto the thickener suspension and the whole paste was completed to one kilogram by water. The printed cotton fabrics were allowed to dry at ambient conditions. Overprinting with coloured paste: The bioprinted cotton samples were then overprinted with printing paste containing the aforementioned dye using the following recipe: Reactive dye 30 g Urea 100g Resist salt 10g Sodium alginate 30g Sodium Carbonate 30g Water y g Total 1000 g The printed fabrics were batched in an oven for different times at 50°C. Finally the printed samples were steamed at 102°C to fix the reactive dye for different periods of times, followed by washing according to the standard method for washing of the reactive dye-printed goods as follows: - Washing with hot water, - Soaping using 2 g/l nonionic detergent and 5 g/l sodium carbonate at 90-95°C for 15 min, - Washing with hot water, - Rinsing with cold water, and finally dried. Dyeing: Dyeing of the fabric was carried out either via one- or two dyeing steps technique as follows: 207 J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(1): 205-225, 2013 One – stage technique: The fabric was first padded in a solution containing : - dye 3% (O.W.F,) - Wetting agent 2g/l - Sodium carbonate 35g/l - L. R. 1:30 To pick up 70% at room temperature Two – stages technique: In this technique the fabric was first padded in a solution containing only the dye (30g/l) and urea (50g/l) i.e – without adding alkali at pick up of 70% at room temperature. In the second step the fabric was padded in a solution containing sodium hydroxide and sodum chloride solutions. Analysis: Colour strength: The colour strength (K/S) of the printed Samples was evaluated by light reflectance technique using Shimadzu UV/ Visible Spectrophotometer (Judd and Wyszecki, 1975) 3.3. Fabric bursting Strength (hydraulic type): Measured according to ASTM- D3786 using (Hydrulicbursting Strength tester) Results and Discussion Discharge and resist styles have been important since the earliest days of textile printing. In spite of, in recent years, modern techniques have made the use of direct printing practicable for many more designs and reduced the necessity of using these styles, yet they will always be of significant because the effect obtained are more often different and aesthetically superior. As it has been mentioned in the first report (literature review) that, in the discharge style, the fabric must first be dyed with dyes that can be destroyed by selected discharging agents (which is generally harmful to the environment). The discharge paste is printed on to the dyed fabric and usually during the subsequent steaming; the dye in the pattern area is discharged. A white discharge is then produced. It is also possible to add a discharge – resistant (illuminating) dye to the discharge print paste, to produce a coloured discharge. Resist printing can be used to produce similar effects, but in this style the fabric is first printed with a resist agent and then dyed. Ground colours can, therefore, be obtained with no dischargeable dyes. Resist mechanisms may be chemical or physical, the maximum effectiveness being ensured by using a mixture of both types of resist agent. A physical resist inhibits absorption of dye, and a chemical resist inhibits fixation. Since the aim of the present work is the production of printed knitted fabrics via applying a new technique (environmentally safe) using white and coloured discharge printing style, taking into consideration the facilities and equipment in Egyptian knitting co. Hence, Laccase enzyme, brewer's yeast and other two commercial enzymes based on Cellulase namely Valumex A828 and Valumex A356 were chosen and used in the present work as follows: (1) The knitted cotton fabric samples were printed with bioprinting paste containing sodium alginate and the enzyme only, prepared according to the recipie indicated in the experimental section, using a flat screen. The printed cotton samples were allowed to dry at ambient conditions. (2) The bioprinted cotton fabric samples were then overprinted with a coloured printing paste containing dischargeable reactive dye, prepared according to the recipie described in the experimental section. (3) The printed knitted cotton samples were batched in an oven for different intervals of time at 50°C. (4) The batched samples were subjected to steaming at 102°C for different periods of time followed by washing according to the standard method for washing reactive dye printed goals followed by drying at ambient conditions and assessed for measuring the K/S and degree of whiteness as well as the bursting strength. Given below the results obtained from this investigation for every enzyme separately: I Resist / discharge printing: On using Laccase enzyme: 208 J.