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Home , Gigha, Islay, Kildalton Cross, Kintyre, Machrihanish, Mull of Kintyre

ESSENCE OF , Jura &

Front cover: This page: Isle of Jura

Situated at the south-western extremity of the Scottish Highlands, the Kintyre peninsula and the outlying islands of Islay and Jura are perfect for those seeking escape and relaxation. Striking seascapes characterise this area, with fascinating coastlines comprised of mighty cliffs and golden strands offering first-class walking and wildlife- watching opportunities. And that’s before you’ve sampled the peerless hospitality, the Gaelic heritage and culture, along with the classic malt for which the area is renowned worldwide. HOW TO GET TO ISLAY & JURA Islay is well served by Caledonian MacBrayne ferries from in Kintyre, with two to three crossing daily to or welcome (both crossings taking roughly two hours). DON’T MISS £ Paid Entry Seasonal Disabled Access Dogs Allowed Tea-Room Gift Shop WC On Wednesdays, visitors have the option to travel from to Port Askaig via (and those wishing to visit Colonsay can do so for the day from Port Askaig). Port Askaig is the departure point for the regular council-run Jura ferry, and timetables are available from Cal Mac. You can also arrive on Islay by plane from Airport. The half-hour flight departs twice daily on week days and once on Saturdays, but not on Sundays. See www.calmac.co.uk and www.loganair.co.uk for more information.

BASE YOURSELF IN LOCATION MAP   COLONSAY CCrinanrinan  1. Distilleries – Wherever 2. The Black Bottle Islay 3. Islay’s – 4. The Isle of – 5. Golf – Two of the finest LochgipheadLLochgilpheadochgiphead you travel in this area, you’re Jazz Festival – Almost a Aside from the two ‘w’s – Situated just off the west links courses in the west of Oronsay never far from a decade since its inception, wildlife and whisky – the coast of Kintyre, the fertile Scotland are to be found   . Islay alone is home Islay Jazz Festival gains in beaches of Islay must rank island of Gigha is well worth here. Machrie, backing on to ISLAY   to eight working distilleries, popularity with each passing as one of the top reasons to a visit if you’re in the area. the Big Strand on Islay, and PPortort AskaigAskaig   Craighouse Port Charlotte     Kilberry producing world-famous year. Attracting the finest visit. Miles of golden sand Within its six mile length, you , overlooking      Bowmore whiskies such as Laphroaig British and international jazz define the island’s west- can visit a selection of the bay of the same name in  Port Charlotte   and Bowmore, renowned for talents to this beautiful island facing coastlines, framed by stunning white beaches, the southwest Kintyre, are     Gigha E   IDEAL FOR   ArdbegArdbeg R their peaty qualities. Here, each September, the long rugged cliffs and lapped by acclaimed Achamore considered classics by  Y    T CarradaleCarradale you’ll also find Kilchoman, a weekend has become a Atlantic waves. Take your Gardens, the 13th-century aficionados, and attract Port Ellen  Beaches N I  recently opened farm distillery. ‘must’ in every music lover’s pick from Kilanallan, haunt of St Catan’s Chapel and the thousands of avid golfers Whisky K ARRAN The neighbouring Isle of Jura calendar. No potential venue otters and seals, , island’s own nine-hole golf from across the globe each

Wildlife   manufactures its own popular is left unused, with everything home to choughs and wild course. An ideal way to year. The surroundings may Machrihanish  Campbeltown malt, while Campbeltown on from local pubs to distillery goats, or the Big Strand, explore Gigha is by bike, be wilder than your typical Principal photography: Paul Tomkins, VisitScotland/Scottish Viewpoint Kintyre now boasts two local warehouses providing a seven whole miles of and these can be hired from course, and the wind a little  All information checked in August 2005. VisitScotland can accept no Southend responsibility for errors. Mull of Kintyre whiskies, namely Springbank backdrop to the melodies. practically unbroken sand, the local post office. The more challenging, but the To find out more about accommodation and Glengyle, the latter dating £ plus many more. island can be reached via sheer adrenalin will spur you in these areas, call 0845 22 55 121 from only 2004. Facilities ferry from , Kintyre. on to a memorable 19th hole or click on visitscotland.com and opening hours vary. in both cases! WALKS VIEWS FOOD & DRINK EXCURSIONS

6. The Big Strand, Islay – The Big Strand (also known as Laggan Bay) can be 11. The from Port 15. The Harbour Inn, 18. The Lochside Hotel, When holidaying around Islay, approached from Laggan in the north, Kintra in the south or – for those in the know – Askaig – Tiny Port Askaig on Islay is Bowmore, Islay – Hailed by Bowmore, Islay – Whisky Jura and Kintyre, why not take via a disused landing strip beside . Whichever way you arrive, you cannot fail something of a ferry hub, serving locals, visitors and critics alike as aficionados need look no further the opportunity to hop on a to be impressed by its seven-mile length, with views towards the Rhinns peninsula to Colonsay, the mainland and Jura. Its one of the places to enjoy than the bar of the Lochside Hotel, boat and discover somewhere proximity to the last makes it an ideal the west, and to the south. Birdlife abounds. Scotland’s celebrated seafood, the stocked with one of the world’s new? Whether it’s joining Islay location to view the Paps of Jura, three Harbour Inn overlooks lovely largest collections of Islay malts. Marine or Islay Seafari for a 7. Barnhill, Jura – Follow the starkly beautiful Isle of Jura’s one and only single track rounded mountains rising out of the Indaal. Also on the eclectic menu – Let Duffie, Roberta and their chance to explore fascinating road up its full eastern extent, and you’ll reach a car park from which there is a relatively sea to over 730m. Relax with a drink winner of many prestigious awards friendly team of staff entertain you coastlines and see a multitude straightforward walk to the house where George Orwell wrote much of 1984. Orwell outside the Port Askaig Hotel and soak up the view. – are local game, beef and lamb, at the village’s liveliest meeting of wildlife, or indulging in a spot stayed here for six months in 1946, during which time he almost lost his life in the and a selection of tempting place, a good place to catch live of island hopping, you’re never nearby . You can walk a couple of miles further from Barnhill to view 12. Arran from Carradale – The village of Carradale on the eastern side vegetarian dishes. music at weekends. short of options here. Take the the gulf, site of one of the world’s three most powerful whirlpools, but should allow a full of Kintyre makes an excellent base Wednesday day trip from Port day for this expedition. 16. , Islay – 19. Skipness Seafood Cabin, from which to explore the peninsula. Askaig on Islay to the charming Ardbeg attracts great numbers of Kintyre – An essential stop on the 8. Davaar Island – Just two miles east of Campbeltown, a mile-long sandbank links The delightful and harbour area island of Colonsay (famed for its offer stunning views over the Kilbrannan visitors, not just for its distillery Seafood Trail, Skipness the distinctive hump of Davaar Island with the mainland at low tide. Whilst admiring the beaches and gardens) or sail Sound to the dramatic hills of Arran. tours but due to the delicious Seafood Cabin is located in the surroundings, visit local man Archibald MacKinnon’s remarkable cave painting of the from Kintyre to Arran (often 13. Machir Bay from the north – selection of food and drink shadow of a 13th-century castle crucifixion, dating from 1887. To find out about tide times, contact the Tourist Information called ‘Scotland in Miniature’) or Ranking as many visitors’ favourite available at the Old Kiln Café on on the shores of the Kilbrannan Centre in Campbeltown before departing from Kildalloig Point. The trip from here should Sanda, a haven for birdlife Islay beach, but lacking the crowds you site. Home baked cakes and Sound, with glorious views towards WILDLIFE last no more than a couple of hours. offering superb views towards might expect to find elsewhere, Machir scones, hearty meals and snacks Arran. Sit outside and tuck into Bay is a stunning mile and a half of (only a short distance The islands of Islay and Jura are something of a 9. The American Monument, Islay – The Oa peninsula offers some of Islay’s are the order of the day, and why oysters, crab or langoustines, all white sand on the edge of the Atlantic. across the North Channel). wildest scenery. Follow the winding road southwest from Port Ellen until you reach the not treat yourself to a drop of the caught locally. Wash down with a mecca for wildlife lovers. With well over a hundred Reached via Loch Gorm in the north- RSPB car park near Upper Killeyan. Follow the signs towards the monument, erected amber nectar? glass of wine and feel at one with breeding bird species in summer, and some of west of the island, some of the finest Sanda atop 100 metre-high cliffs by the American Red Cross as a tribute to those who died in the world! Europe’s largest populations of wintering wildfowl, views can be enjoyed on your approach 17. Kilberry Inn – Transformed the sinking of the Tuscania and the Otranto off Islay during . Then follow the from the car park west of Kilchoman. into a quality restaurant from a they are a year round destination for ornithologists. clifftops round back to the farmhouse and the car park, looking out for choughs, golden 16 14. Mull of Kintyre to Antrim – traditional but ‘n’ ben cottage, the Add to this some exceptional marine wildlife, eagles and wild goats. The Mull of Kintyre marks the point Kilberry Inn is open all year for including minke whales, common and bottlenose 10 where comes closest to 10. , Kintyre – Not far home cooking at its best, including Ireland. With only 12 miles of water dolphins, basking sharks and literally thousands from the Mull of Kintyre, made famous by separating the two, the views on a the freshest seafood imaginable. of seals, alongside some of Britain’s best Paul McCartney, the long beach at clear day can be breathtaking. When Just north of Kintyre, it offers the opportunities to spy otters, red deer and golden Machrihanish is widely regarded as the travelling to the Mull, cars must be left perfect stop on your journey and is eagles, and you have a natural paradise. finest in mainland Argyll. Approach the at ‘The Gap’, situated over a mile from a peaceful place to relax and eat strand via the beach’s namesake village to (and high above) the at the A particular highlight is the arrival of around 50,000 whilst absorbing the gorgeous the south (where there is a small bird very tip. You can either tackle the scenery. Recommended in the barnacle and white-fronted geese from the Arctic strenuous walk to and from the observatory) or from Westport to the north, Good Pub Guide. lighthouse or enjoy the vista from a Circle each autumn. beside the A83. marked viewpoint nearer the car park. Islay, Jura and Kintyre For more information, call 0845For 22 more 55 121information, or visitscotland.com call 0845

21 20 HERITAGE & GARDENS

20. , Islay – Widely considered to be one of the finest Celtic high crosses found anywhere on earth, the 8th-century Kildalton Cross sits just off the A846 a few miles north-east of Ardbeg. It features biblical scenes such as the Virgin and Child, Cain murdering Abel and David taking on the might of the lion. Adjacent Kildalton Chapel dates from the 13th century.

21. Round Church, Bowmore, Islay – Built circularly to ensure that the devil could not hide in any corners, Bowmore’s Round Church – dating from 1767 – sits at the top of Main Street and dominates the village. The central tower bears more than a little resemblance to a lighthouse, while the interior – though suitably plain for a Presbyterian place of worship – is certainly atmospheric.

22. , Islay – From the 12th century until the 16th, Finlaggan (situated on a loch of the same name in northeast Islay) acted as seat of the Lords of the Isles. This assembly had a high degree of self-rule from Kintyre to the Butt of Lewis, and occupied a series of (artificial islands built for defence purposes) in the loch. Archaeologists have uncovered some amazing artefacts, the stories of which are explained at the visitor centre. £ 23. Jura House Walled Garden – Situated in the grounds of Jura House at the island’s southern tip and split in two by a fast flowing stream, this walled garden specialises in Australasian plants. Dating from the 19th century, the garden is home to a tea tent in the summer and sells bulbs, seeds and plants on site. £ 24. Skipness Castle & Chapel, Kintyre – Just off the B8001 south of Skipness, the shoreline is dominated by a fine 13th-century castle with a 16th-century tower house in one corner. Nearby, the early 14th-century chapel holds a

Round Church, Bowmore small collection of fine grave slabs. Combine your visit with a trip to the Seafood Cabin (detailed above). Kildalton Cross, Islay